I've done this mod before. Easier to do on older monitors. When soaking the towel, use a lot of water. You really want the anti glare layer to soak up as much water as possible. When ready to peel, do it all in one shot or else you'll leave behind streaks.
Agree. I did mine with an old 4:3 2000s laptop screen. After a year I wanted to try the paper trick but used too little water and killed it. Using high luminance 12v white LEDs does the trick at the same time without using the paper and water
I've almost accidentally made it using old Samsung 5:4 19 inch monitor. It consisted of 4 or 5 layers of some type of polarized filter, flat lens, polycarbonate glass and lighting layer. I was just curious about how those things work😅 Anyway in 2020 that monitor came to the end of its life
Just found this channel today as I'm building my second PC in 16 years... this has to be one of the best channels on YT, period. It's real content, you show the failures or mistakes, you're entertaining, knowledgeable, funny, and easy to listen to. Fantastic content and all this time you've poured into this platform is much appreciated. Subscribed!
This unfortunately doesn't work on modern screens as the anti glare layer is combined with the second polarization layer. You might have more luck with an old 32 inch 1080p or 720p TV.
Correct I've found that all the newer gaming monitors the polarized layer is molecularly bonded to the anti glare sheet... it has to be an old LED monitor like 1080p max or just a really cheap Walmart screen that's thick... not thin... plain LED with no extra tech built in!!!
@@rkaidag74 I actually think it's just one sheet now. It's cheaper to make, uses less material and keeps the screen a few microns thinner. Less sheets, less chance of de-lamination, too.
I dumped my panel in the bath tub with about a 1cm of water in it (not submerging the attached cables/PCB), letting it soak for ~8 hours. Afterwards, the peel was a breeze. Except I was peeling the polarization layer off the first time lol. The second panel came out great tho 😂
@@MarcusBuer Only if it actually is only the polarising layer - testing with what's been removed will result in confirmation bias and potential false positive
@@SighManP I mean, the polarizing layer is the only layer that stops image from being visible, the other layer is just anti-glare. These are the only layers after the glass substrate.
I think you've been removing the polarizing layer. Fun experiment if you rotate the peeled off layer it will invert the colors of the monitor. Also with the layer removed and backlighting installed the screen will appear bright white but when wearing polarizing glasses (or 3d glasses) you can see what's on the monitor perfectly. Might work for some screen privacy in a public place .😂
There's actually mods where you use the polarizing as glass lens Like just cut it at the right shape, replace the lenses and boom spy glasses and screen
When we would remove old tint from the glass on cars, we used ammonia. Since the panel is toast, why not test to see if ammonia can be used without harming the rest of the panel?
Almost all monitors with internal power supplies convert the 120vac to 12vdc. You can use the 12vdc power from the power supply to power the screen directly. We use underwater ROV's that have cameras on them. we run everything off of a 12 vdc battery. i have converted several screens this way.
It says alot about the goings on there when Jay says "We should water cool it" and Phil has to take a second to try to figure out whether it was a joke or not before laughing.
In all seriousness, thanks for showing how it can go wrong. Ive been looking at building one myself and you are saving me a lot of money via trial error method. Cannot thank you enough!
Seeing a failure like this is really important because it opens up more questions for where you did go wrong and what other mistakes could have been made. Really interested in seeing a follow up for this vid.
Well I don't need to light my wall on fire to find out that's not a good way to remove the paint but sure, we can call this a brief moment in the steps to greatness if that helps.
@@JJFX- funny you should talk about paint and fire because I work with paints and there's a new product available called FSA Firecoat, which was developed with the help of UNSW because homes in NSW were burnt to a crisp after the fires of 2020. Point is that I wonder how long it would take for a PC company to come up with the idea of manufacturing an LCD screen right into the glass panel so you can buy a case with this already built in.
@@NuttsnBolts I'm no expert but hasn't flame retardant paint/coating been a thing for a long time? Regardless, I'm struggling to see how that would make much difference in a significant fire considering how flammable the rest of the structure is. I do have a little bit of experience when it comes to custom screens though. The main issue is the manufacturers of decent displays like this will only do orders that custom in pretty significant quantities. So a case manufacturer would need to A) use the the same size display in any such products and B) sell enough of them to justify it. It's also not going to be cheap making point B even more difficult.
@@JJFX- not as an acrylic, water based paint and most fire retardant paints are can typically only go up to around 300°C compared to that of an actual bush fire
Its so good to see failures along with wins, everybody learns from mistakes and its good to see what can go wrong and what did go wrong never stop trying always keep learning! Awesome stuff Jay always love seeing some DIY tech stuff :)
Been doing LCD repairing for 5 years now and this video was the most painful thing i watched for a long time. Edit: Sorry i can't give any advice on newer panels.
@@HackxBox @P5YKOTIK1870 my apologize but i been mostly doing repairs on the power supplies and controller pcb. in my market it's not really worth it to repair panels so we usually replace them. so i don't have any experience in this field.
If you want to try doing it chemically, use REMOVE(c) Universal Adhesive Remover. Thats the stuff hospitals and medical use to remove any and all adhesive products from peoples skin (so you know its safe for use). I use it for all kinds of glue killer, and it does not affect glass / plastic or any surface you dont want it to affect. The trick here is to get it under the plastic layer you want to remove, so it can eat at the glue/adhesive. That will be a very slow process.
Or just use straight naphtha which is one of the best general adhesive removers out there, which is why REMOVE is essentially just that and an alcohol.
Quantom dot are actually small particles that will absorb one wavelength of light and re-emit another one. It's used to improve color accuracy, but it is not "another layer of gates"
I actually made this exact mod myselfe a few days ago and with the first monitor i did exactly the same mistake as you. After i destroyed the first monitor by pulling of the polarizing layer i tried again with another monitor but i had to let it soak for 8 hours before the anti glare layer came of. If you try it again i would recommend soaking it in the evening and the next morning the anti glare layer should come of. Great video tho and good luck with the mod.
I think the anti glare and polorizing layer might have been combined into a single sheet on that particular monitor to be a cleaner image. Might try the monitor you got and swap the power boards out or find the 12 to 24 volt line to connect the external power supply or use one of the pc power connector to connect directly. Shouldnt be to difficult for you with the projects you have done over the years.
Isopropyl would have probably done the trick, but you removed the polarising layer, the LCD is in the glass itself, so you can't really remove it. You can apply a new polarising film, but it's easier to just do this with a monitor that isn't anti-glare and has a construction that isn't glued together as much, but that's pretty uncommon in monitors nowadays.
Jay pulled off the polarizing film from front of LCD. There's also another on back of glass, but you need both make display work. You could prob replace it with polarizing window filter. Rotate it until display picture looks correct. Then put it on just like window tint.
Quantum dot doesn't give you better blacks, it gives more light, this is because UV leds are better at producing more light, and the quantum dots effeciently absorb that uv light and produces light at the lower visible frequencies. It does have the advantage of less visible light bleed and gives you a healthy suntan in the process.
Done this mod on Modern expensive Monitors. You really have to let the towels soak loooong. Over night at its fastest. Or a day. And it needs to stay moist. Then you can easily remove it without much problem
Use a gentle heat. If you have a programmable heat gun, use the lowest setting possible. Secondary thing, you will need a clear polariser. What you are removing is the polarising layer which light shifts the lcd to be visible.
As much as I would love it if companies sold transparent displays, I just don't think there is enough volume where it will happen. I always wanted to do this type of a mod, but it looked like it would be painful to do.
This is the kind of thing where a company would really have to step up and take a gamble, maybe a major case manufacturer order some screens constructed as such to use for built-in side panels in some high end cases, something that could kickstart enough of a market to warrant an increasing supply of screens like this. It would certainly be a gamble though, I'm not sure that would be the cheapest of features to add to a case lol. Ayy, there's definitely SOME people that would buy it though.
brings back memories of my 19" LCD side panels I used to make for LAN party cases as an Overlay to show data rates, avail free space CPU, Memory usages and FTP status etc and the 27kg 21" CRT I used to still take to game on oh boy that is going back 20 years
To remove automotive tint, we would spray down a black trash bag with regular windex, then lay it against the inside of the glass, and park it in the sun for an hour. The ammonia in regular windex (not the vinegar based one) is usually bad for computer monitors and automotive applications, but I think that's why it would work here. As long as it doesn't mess up anything else on the screen.
You most likely pulled up the polarization layer which is why you didn't see an image chances are that if you used a flat monitor you wouldn't have had so much trouble since in order to make a curved monitor the layers need to be thinner to allow for the bend
Snowblinds eh? I managed to do it ages ago, once; I think the soapie liquid mainly seeps in at the edges of your screen, so get those areas tucked in and wet! ..though you may have jinxed the MOD from the onset by using a curved screen(!) (layers could well be secured in another fashion, slowing or hindering the osmosis of fluids, idk) For me I remember it taking half a days soak w.a really really wet (and dirty) bath-towel, with scant periodic fidgeting at the edges, using my fingernails. At a certain point it was mainly suction holding the polarizing/diffusing layers. Give it another go when you get another disposable panel. It takes patience, you'll know when the layers are ready to go, after only a few pokes at the edges. If it ain't comin' apart; leave it to soak some more!
When removing the adhesive layer, try using cleaning benzene . It works with those nasty adhesive price tags stores attach to various products. Many thanks for all the informative videos. 🙂
the screen you were pealing was the Fresnel lens layer. it is a polarizing layer that shapes the light coming out of the screen. you would actually see a picture if you attached that layer to a pair of glasses and wore them. in more modern monitors that layer is also darker to make blacks darker. the reason you couldn't see the picture is cause without that layer the light bends in all directions and becomes muddied.
Hi Jay. I have some experience performing the LCD Side Panel Mod (aka iBuyPower Snowblind) a few times. I used a TFT panel not an OLED panel which are very different. I used a super absorbant towel that holds water well and soaked it in water. I also waited 6-8 hours. I continually added water to keep the towel wet. My video was for removing the anti glare layer on a TFT panel, not making an OLED display transparent, which i have no idea how to do.
in my experience, older plastic based lcds work. as cheap as possible for the size you want, low contrast. lots of water, leave for a day. worked on an lg 22'' circa 2007 monitor like a charm first time. though you'll need A LOT OF LIGHT in the case, as only about 18% of light makes it through. I was really rooting for you in spite of the title!
Wish I had the money to destroy a "affordable" $450 monitor 🤣 Fun project though, been thinking about it as well ... I would probably go for a cheap used "office" monitor though 😅
I have never done anything like this but wouldn't it be easier to just get a polarizing sheet that is reverse of the polarization of the screen? It wouldn't be as clear but is less messy and, if the monitors have the polarization layer bonded with the anti-glare as some commenters say, it would have lower risk of damage.
If its an adhesive, could you soak it in acetone to dissolve the adhesive layer? it wouldn't affect the glass, though I have no idea what reaction it would have to other layers. If there are plastics, it would be an obvious no go.
I love these kinds of videos, because you never know if it will work. Without these kinds of videos you'll never know if it worked because you never tried. You always have to try.
weird seeing Jay use a screwdriver to separate the plastic - it's like he's never heard of IFIXIT kits. BTW Jay you have a relationship with many manufactures maybe hit of nzxt and see if they can send you a plain panel....?
If the polarizer layer itself IS the warranty void sticker, sure. And to be fair, even if Jay tried to warranty this screen it will obviously get denied, with or without there being a sticker XD
Yea... you were pulling up the front polarizer , which is an instrumental part of an LCD's operation.. much like dropping the differential out of a truck. it might have the engine and transmission... but it needs the diff to get the power to the wheels.
the anti-glare thing can be mostly nullified by a glossy coat of paint. like, think about how it works: you have a rough surface with a high index of refraction, which sends light in all sorts of different directions, but it can only do so because it has a surface boundary with air. if you put paint over it, the surface between the diffuser layer and the paint will have next to no refraction, and the paint can have a smooth surface to the air, resulting in a very smooth refraction pattern, and you can see through the screen. whenever the lcd lets you, that is. (you can test this out by putting a drop of water on a matte etched glass surface and it suddenly becomes fully transparent, because you get much less refraction between the glass and water, and the water droplet has a smooth surface.) and yeah, like the others are saying, you were peeling off the polarizer. lcds don't block light, they twist the polarization of light. ever played with a pair of polarizers and how you can control how bright or dark they are by just twisting them in regards to each other? lcds do the same thing, they're always sandwiched between two polarizers, just instead of moving the polarizers they twist the light in the gap between them. but if you take off the front polarizer, you don't get more or less light, you just get differently twisted light
I've also done this and you need to leave the water towels a day as its not gonna work earlier than that... and yeah... it should be the front layer not the back but again you need to make sure you soak it well. It's amazing how wet you need to make the polarizing layer for this to work. Annnnd loads of patience.. oops! RIP
The front was the polarizing layer, the back was the LCD. Super easy to tell when you're peeling the LCD apart because it'll look very oily underneath. You'd basically need a super weak polarizer if you want the screen to look clear and still be able to see it.
I love the Mods your willing to try out, when I first got into Computers all I did was try dumb mods cause nothing was new or worked correctly like I needed lol. I ended up shorting my first motherboard by trying to fit a bigger heatsink with out it actually fitting lol, I learned a lot from that experience and eventually saved up enough money to build a brand new system, current gen. I'm glad I learned to tinker before I even tried to build a legit PC. Tinkering is a very important part of learning how things work.
I doubt you tried "dumb mods" - you just tried less risky ones or something in order to learn ;) It's not dumb unless you do something knowingly wrong or ridiculous.
I'm sure someone in the comments already beat me to this but when you remove the polarizing layer you can't see the image. It's a feature that we've exploited for an instillation where the screen just looks like the backlight and you hang a frame in front of it w polarized lense layer and you can only see the image through the polarized film.
Some manufacturers sandwich the film between the lens sheet and the optic sheet. If they did that you would not be soaking anything to get it to de-laminate cleanly. Might want to be thankful that it didn't have yet another layer sandwiched in there for a touch screen digitizer.
ive done this mod (not on a curved though) with 2 other monitors. 1 older and one cheapo new one. Currently preparing a 55" tv for my super sized wall mount pc
As someone who''s done this mod a few times, and done EXACTLY this with one of them...definitely feel your pain. As for what you did: Monitors will have 3 layers that are relevant to this mod: -Anti-glare -Polarizer -LCD Substrate The Anti-glare coating is extremely thin and if soaked properly, you'll see it start to bubble up a bit. When you started pulling and I saw how dark the material that was being pulled was, this told me immediately that you pulled up the polarizer which sits between the Anti-glare and the LCD. I've never attempted this with a more modern monitor, but there's where your main issue started. I prefer to use monitors without an anti-glare coating if at all possible, and with the right monitor you can run it all off of SATA power so long as you have the right controller board. My worst failure was using a screen that pulled way too much power and fried my poor controller board. Upside is you also now have a cheap studio light :V If you wanna try this again, let me know and I may be able to provide some quick info.
my understanding is the anti-glare is a coating (not a sheet) applied to the screen. There's glass cleaners that even say "warning not intended for anti-glare screens" because it eats it away? wouldn't soaking the towels in that type product just remove that coating?
Could try taking a large rubber made container and fillling it with enough water to submerge the screen using only distilled water. then spraying pcb with 99%alcohol afterword's to evap any remaining water.
While dihydrogen monoxide is a universal solvent, it requires a lengthy amount of time to adequately dissolve adhesive. I suggest a stronger solvent, say high % isopropyl, wd40, brake clean, or if you know where to get it dibutoxymethane. Talk about an awesome solvent. Also, it works great as a degreaser, removes fifth wheel grease with ease.
Grab some polarized sunglasses and have a look at the spots where you cut the polarizing layer off. Rotate them 45 degrees at a time until you find the proper alignment.
Isn't what you were peeling off the polarising filter, not the display itself? You'd need a polarising filter to block the rotated light against the unrotated light. You could check with a camera pol filter or sunglasses.
I tried to do this once for the front of my Core P5 wall-mounted case. My brother came into my room to bum a beer, and accidentally stepped on it, after I had taken it out and successfully gotten it to work in its bare form.
Jay: Did ads for "IFIXIT" in the past a lot (- I got some of their tools myself and even fixed some phones - broken displays and cameras - using them) Also Jay: Breaks open a brand new monitor with a screw driver and pure violence 😂
Just an idea but maybe you could try one of those commercial monitors they use for advertisements, have a feeling the build quality on those would be cheaper and less issue with the layers.
I actually turned a old box fan into a monitor because my light tubes burnt out. But yes older monitors work great as most layers are just inserts instead of glued together.
I am curious, can you use like all the stuff from that monitor to make just a screen work. with no control thingy etc. not sure if that makes sense or not. use the control of that monitor and grab a blank monitor or like just display or something idk then get it to work.?.
Get an older lcd monitor or a glossy panel monitor, older is by far easier i did this mod awhile back it's time consuming but fun and looks neat, hardest part is running wires. I used an old Dell square "flat screen" lcd monitor(resolution was terrible it was below 720p and it was relatively thick looking though most of that was it's power supply)
It's really cool to see this kind of thing Jay, but it would really help if you give us some "Need to know" details, for those of us who never heard of doing such a thing, like: What do you mean by use it as a "Clear LCD panel"? Do you mean see through maybe? because clear and see through are not one and the same thing, maybe "Semi-transparent" is a better word. You never explained what removing the anti glare layer (which could be just a coating you cannot remove without some specific chemical and method...) is good for... All I got is "I tried a difficult thing flying blind and broked it"!
He means without a backlight layer, because they're going to provide the backlighting via the internal case lighting. The anti-glare layer is dark because monitors have pretty powerful backlighting(at least compared to the lighting in your case), so that layer needs to come off to really be able to get a visible image with significantly less backlighting.
I almost tried the coating thing once back in the day. That was with 27" 1440p when that size was really new and the Dell U2711 monitor was like $800, only I felt the anti-reflective coating was just robbing me of letting the monitor be all it could be. However with me realizing I would be stuck with a 24" if the project failed I ended up not doing it. Maybe I should dig out the think from the basement a try now just to try. My thinking is that not all monitors are build to do the coating thing, but also that just starting with an OLED is likely the better if perhaps more expensive way to go.
@@damirkvajo It is a great monitor for sure. I moved to a 40" 4K Philips like 5-6 years ago and for a while I used the Dell as #2 monitor with it rotated 90 degrees, however eventually I came to the conclusion I hardly ever looked at it. The 40" 4K offers close to the same dpi as the Dell so for their different size it was a great combo, it is just I don't need desktop area. at work it is a different thing and there I do run a 40" 4K + a 27" 1440p.
Probably not relevant but, what about turn the LCD screen on and letting it heat up for a while to help soften the adhesive layer before pealing off? Just thinking about when you are trying to remove the heat sink from a video card sometimes it helps to heat up the GPU before removing?
Typically, it's not the LCD screen itself that get's warm, it's the backlight heating it up from the back. Those LED's handle a stupid amount of power per LED (94V's and up per strip with LED's in serial with each strip is not uncommon) and usually use the metal backing they are stuck down on for dissipating heat (which is why the back of the case of a modern monitor can feel much warmer than the front).
You need a lot more water on the towels and you need to keep it very wet. In every shot where you try to peel the layer off, the towel looks very dry. Also, a couple of hours is way to little. 24 hours sounds more right.
He even mentioned it takes anywhere from a couple hours to 24 hours of soaking. I would have just been safe and went with the full 24. Not that it would have helped in this situation but...
Jay you got to use HOT water bur not boiling hot. Just Hot water from the tap spray that on your shop towels and keep them wet with the Hot water. This will melt the adhesive enough for it to come off in one piece
Think you removed the polarizing layer. Should have taken a polarizer rotate it on parts you couldn't see the image to confirm if it was the case before leaving it for dead and destroying the panel.
More water and longer soak time (i would do as close to 24 hours as you can to be sure) and need an older monitor or one you can find out that the anti glare layer is not also acting as a polarizer layer as well. It should peel up clean. A flat monitor is more likely to have the anti glare as its own layer too.
I've done this mod before. Easier to do on older monitors. When soaking the towel, use a lot of water. You really want the anti glare layer to soak up as much water as possible. When ready to peel, do it all in one shot or else you'll leave behind streaks.
Agree. I did mine with an old 4:3 2000s laptop screen. After a year I wanted to try the paper trick but used too little water and killed it. Using high luminance 12v white LEDs does the trick at the same time without using the paper and water
The film I use on my house windows(reflects heat) comes off with vinegar/water mix. Imagine the glue should be the same. Vinegar takes the glue off.
I've almost accidentally made it using old Samsung 5:4 19 inch monitor. It consisted of 4 or 5 layers of some type of polarized filter, flat lens, polycarbonate glass and lighting layer. I was just curious about how those things work😅 Anyway in 2020 that monitor came to the end of its life
Acetone.
Uhh actone could just destroy everything @@shawnshurtz9147
Just found this channel today as I'm building my second PC in 16 years... this has to be one of the best channels on YT, period. It's real content, you show the failures or mistakes, you're entertaining, knowledgeable, funny, and easy to listen to. Fantastic content and all this time you've poured into this platform is much appreciated. Subscribed!
This unfortunately doesn't work on modern screens as the anti glare layer is combined with the second polarization layer. You might have more luck with an old 32 inch 1080p or 720p TV.
Correct I've found that all the newer gaming monitors the polarized layer is molecularly bonded to the anti glare sheet... it has to be an old LED monitor like 1080p max or just a really cheap Walmart screen that's thick... not thin... plain LED with no extra tech built in!!!
@@rkaidag74 I actually think it's just one sheet now. It's cheaper to make, uses less material and keeps the screen a few microns thinner. Less sheets, less chance of de-lamination, too.
@@kyoudaiken wouldn't surprise me at all...
I dumped my panel in the bath tub with about a 1cm of water in it (not submerging the attached cables/PCB), letting it soak for ~8 hours. Afterwards, the peel was a breeze. Except I was peeling the polarization layer off the first time lol. The second panel came out great tho 😂
I love seeing failure!! So glad you post this stuff. We only learn when we fail. Nice work!
would have been great too if it went correctly, but yeah we also learn from these failures... what NOT to do...
@@Wrecker3D I just like that he put the video up instead of trashing it! It is great content!
speak for yourself. i learn by many means. if failure happens, i only learned what not to do.
@@josephlalock8378 🤓
@Wrecker3D Tony Star- I mean Jay always learns from his mistakes
The polarizer came off with the antiglare which is why you couldn't see the spot that wasnt damaged
You can test by using a pair of polarising sunglasses- from your track days
@@SighManP or just a piece of the polarizing layer he removed :p
@@MarcusBuer Only if it actually is only the polarising layer - testing with what's been removed will result in confirmation bias and potential false positive
@@SighManP I mean, the polarizing layer is the only layer that stops image from being visible, the other layer is just anti-glare. These are the only layers after the glass substrate.
I made basically the same comment than read yours. I could not believe I was not the only one who noticed.😂
I think you've been removing the polarizing layer.
Fun experiment if you rotate the peeled off layer it will invert the colors of the monitor.
Also with the layer removed and backlighting installed the screen will appear bright white but when wearing polarizing glasses (or 3d glasses) you can see what's on the monitor perfectly. Might work for some screen privacy in a public place .😂
An escape room we did once had this. You would find a polarized sheet and then you could see the next step on the monitor.
I agree, they removed the polarizing layer.
So essentially the monitor was fine, you'd just need polarized glasses?
@@SolidusgamingTVyes
There's actually mods where you use the polarizing as glass lens
Like just cut it at the right shape, replace the lenses and boom spy glasses and screen
15:27 For anyone needing this sound for your videos. Thanks JayZ!
When we would remove old tint from the glass on cars, we used ammonia. Since the panel is toast, why not test to see if ammonia can be used without harming the rest of the panel?
Almost all monitors with internal power supplies convert the 120vac to 12vdc. You can use the 12vdc power from the power supply to power the screen directly. We use underwater ROV's that have cameras on them. we run everything off of a 12 vdc battery. i have converted several screens this way.
what you did wrong? you were so preoccupied with whether you could, you didn’t stop to think if you should.
It says alot about the goings on there when Jay says "We should water cool it" and Phil has to take a second to try to figure out whether it was a joke or not before laughing.
In all seriousness, thanks for showing how it can go wrong. Ive been looking at building one myself and you are saving me a lot of money via trial error method. Cannot thank you enough!
Seeing a failure like this is really important because it opens up more questions for where you did go wrong and what other mistakes could have been made.
Really interested in seeing a follow up for this vid.
Well I don't need to light my wall on fire to find out that's not a good way to remove the paint but sure, we can call this a brief moment in the steps to greatness if that helps.
@@JJFX- funny you should talk about paint and fire because I work with paints and there's a new product available called FSA Firecoat, which was developed with the help of UNSW because homes in NSW were burnt to a crisp after the fires of 2020.
Point is that I wonder how long it would take for a PC company to come up with the idea of manufacturing an LCD screen right into the glass panel so you can buy a case with this already built in.
@@NuttsnBolts I'm no expert but hasn't flame retardant paint/coating been a thing for a long time? Regardless, I'm struggling to see how that would make much difference in a significant fire considering how flammable the rest of the structure is.
I do have a little bit of experience when it comes to custom screens though. The main issue is the manufacturers of decent displays like this will only do orders that custom in pretty significant quantities. So a case manufacturer would need to A) use the the same size display in any such products and B) sell enough of them to justify it. It's also not going to be cheap making point B even more difficult.
@@JJFX- not as an acrylic, water based paint and most fire retardant paints are can typically only go up to around 300°C compared to that of an actual bush fire
@@NuttsnBolts Interesting, I'll look into it. If it's actually effective I have some applications where this might be worth trying.
Its so good to see failures along with wins, everybody learns from mistakes and its good to see what can go wrong and what did go wrong never stop trying always keep learning! Awesome stuff Jay always love seeing some DIY tech stuff :)
Been doing LCD repairing for 5 years now and this video was the most painful thing i watched for a long time.
Edit: Sorry i can't give any advice on newer panels.
Wow, very helpful! He did ask for advice, not what YOU have been doing for N years.
Great help
@@HackxBox @P5YKOTIK1870 my apologize but i been mostly doing repairs on the power supplies and controller pcb. in my market it's not really worth it to repair panels so we usually replace them. so i don't have any experience in this field.
If you want to try doing it chemically, use REMOVE(c) Universal Adhesive Remover.
Thats the stuff hospitals and medical use to remove any and all adhesive products from peoples skin (so you know its safe for use). I use it for all kinds of glue killer, and it does not affect glass / plastic or any surface you dont want it to affect. The trick here is to get it under the plastic layer you want to remove, so it can eat at the glue/adhesive. That will be a very slow process.
It’s an amazing solvent, it’s not cheap but I don’t waste my time on anything else
Or just use straight naphtha which is one of the best general adhesive removers out there, which is why REMOVE is essentially just that and an alcohol.
Quantom dot are actually small particles that will absorb one wavelength of light and re-emit another one. It's used to improve color accuracy, but it is not "another layer of gates"
I actually made this exact mod myselfe a few days ago and with the first monitor i did exactly the same mistake as you. After i destroyed the first monitor by pulling of the polarizing layer i tried again with another monitor but i had to let it soak for 8 hours before the anti glare layer came of. If you try it again i would recommend soaking it in the evening and the next morning the anti glare layer should come of. Great video tho and good luck with the mod.
I think the anti glare and polorizing layer might have been combined into a single sheet on that particular monitor to be a cleaner image. Might try the monitor you got and swap the power boards out or find the 12 to 24 volt line to connect the external power supply or use one of the pc power connector to connect directly. Shouldnt be to difficult for you with the projects you have done over the years.
Isopropyl would have probably done the trick, but you removed the polarising layer, the LCD is in the glass itself, so you can't really remove it. You can apply a new polarising film, but it's easier to just do this with a monitor that isn't anti-glare and has a construction that isn't glued together as much, but that's pretty uncommon in monitors nowadays.
its actually harder to find a modern monitor that dont come with antiglare coating than removing the antiglare coating on monitors that come with them
@@saladbetch8235 Cheap laptops are good, tho they usually go as far as 17 inch.
Jay pulled off the polarizing film from front of LCD. There's also another on back of glass, but you need both make display work. You could prob replace it with polarizing window filter. Rotate it until display picture looks correct. Then put it on just like window tint.
Quantum dot doesn't give you better blacks, it gives more light, this is because UV leds are better at producing more light, and the quantum dots effeciently absorb that uv light and produces light at the lower visible frequencies. It does have the advantage of less visible light bleed and gives you a healthy suntan in the process.
Done this mod on Modern expensive Monitors. You really have to let the towels soak loooong. Over night at its fastest. Or a day. And it needs to stay moist.
Then you can easily remove it without much problem
Use a gentle heat. If you have a programmable heat gun, use the lowest setting possible. Secondary thing, you will need a clear polariser. What you are removing is the polarising layer which light shifts the lcd to be visible.
or a hairdryer
As much as I would love it if companies sold transparent displays, I just don't think there is enough volume where it will happen. I always wanted to do this type of a mod, but it looked like it would be painful to do.
This is the kind of thing where a company would really have to step up and take a gamble, maybe a major case manufacturer order some screens constructed as such to use for built-in side panels in some high end cases, something that could kickstart enough of a market to warrant an increasing supply of screens like this. It would certainly be a gamble though, I'm not sure that would be the cheapest of features to add to a case lol. Ayy, there's definitely SOME people that would buy it though.
brings back memories of my 19" LCD side panels I used to make for LAN party cases as an Overlay to show data rates, avail free space CPU, Memory usages and FTP status etc and the 27kg 21" CRT I used to still take to game on oh boy that is going back 20 years
great to see you try new things even if they don't work out. trial and error part of the business
I think I need sleep. I read trial and terror.....
To remove automotive tint, we would spray down a black trash bag with regular windex, then lay it against the inside of the glass, and park it in the sun for an hour. The ammonia in regular windex (not the vinegar based one) is usually bad for computer monitors and automotive applications, but I think that's why it would work here. As long as it doesn't mess up anything else on the screen.
You most likely pulled up the polarization layer which is why you didn't see an image chances are that if you used a flat monitor you wouldn't have had so much trouble since in order to make a curved monitor the layers need to be thinner to allow for the bend
Snowblinds eh? I managed to do it ages ago, once; I think the soapie liquid mainly seeps in at the edges of your screen, so get those areas tucked in and wet!
..though you may have jinxed the MOD from the onset by using a curved screen(!) (layers could well be secured in another fashion, slowing or hindering the osmosis of fluids, idk)
For me I remember it taking half a days soak w.a really really wet (and dirty) bath-towel, with scant periodic fidgeting at the edges, using my fingernails. At a certain point it was mainly suction holding the polarizing/diffusing layers.
Give it another go when you get another disposable panel. It takes patience, you'll know when the layers are ready to go, after only a few pokes at the edges. If it ain't comin' apart; leave it to soak some more!
Honestly. I love that you tried. I really wanna see you succeed with this! Please, do try again!
you should have used a contact with a monitor fendor
When removing the adhesive layer, try using cleaning benzene . It works with those nasty adhesive price tags stores attach to various products.
Many thanks for all the informative videos. 🙂
the screen you were pealing was the Fresnel lens layer. it is a polarizing layer that shapes the light coming out of the screen. you would actually see a picture if you attached that layer to a pair of glasses and wore them. in more modern monitors that layer is also darker to make blacks darker. the reason you couldn't see the picture is cause without that layer the light bends in all directions and becomes muddied.
Hi Jay. I have some experience performing the LCD Side Panel Mod (aka iBuyPower Snowblind) a few times. I used a TFT panel not an OLED panel which are very different. I used a super absorbant towel that holds water well and soaked it in water.
I also waited 6-8 hours. I continually added water to keep the towel wet.
My video was for removing the anti glare layer on a TFT panel, not making an OLED display transparent, which i have no idea how to do.
in my experience, older plastic based lcds work. as cheap as possible for the size you want, low contrast. lots of water, leave for a day. worked on an lg 22'' circa 2007 monitor like a charm first time. though you'll need A LOT OF LIGHT in the case, as only about 18% of light makes it through. I was really rooting for you in spite of the title!
Wish I had the money to destroy a "affordable" $450 monitor 🤣 Fun project though, been thinking about it as well ... I would probably go for a cheap used "office" monitor though 😅
Yea I know right we in the wrong business fml🙄
Jay: "We should water cool it."
I lost it... XD
Thanks, Guys!! Freaking love ya'll!!
Gave it a like because you showed how things go for a normal person ! Thank you Jayz
I have never done anything like this but wouldn't it be easier to just get a polarizing sheet that is reverse of the polarization of the screen?
It wouldn't be as clear but is less messy and, if the monitors have the polarization layer bonded with the anti-glare as some commenters say, it would have lower risk of damage.
If its an adhesive, could you soak it in acetone to dissolve the adhesive layer? it wouldn't affect the glass, though I have no idea what reaction it would have to other layers. If there are plastics, it would be an obvious no go.
I need these videos released around 12 PM CST my guy, so I can pass the rest of my afternoon at work.
I love these kinds of videos, because you never know if it will work. Without these kinds of videos you'll never know if it worked because you never tried. You always have to try.
You removed the polarized layer, thats how you make "privacy monitors" look at that corner with a piece you removed
weird seeing Jay use a screwdriver to separate the plastic - it's like he's never heard of IFIXIT kits. BTW Jay you have a relationship with many manufactures maybe hit of nzxt and see if they can send you a plain panel....?
This is one of those situations where I agree with the warranty void stickers.
If the polarizer layer itself IS the warranty void sticker, sure.
And to be fair, even if Jay tried to warranty this screen it will obviously get denied, with or without there being a sticker XD
whoooshhhhh @@DJRaffa1000
Yea... you were pulling up the front polarizer , which is an instrumental part of an LCD's operation.. much like dropping the differential out of a truck. it might have the engine and transmission... but it needs the diff to get the power to the wheels.
Isopropyl alcohol softens glue from phone batteries. You might aswell try isopropyl alcohol to soften the adhesive.
the anti-glare thing can be mostly nullified by a glossy coat of paint. like, think about how it works: you have a rough surface with a high index of refraction, which sends light in all sorts of different directions, but it can only do so because it has a surface boundary with air. if you put paint over it, the surface between the diffuser layer and the paint will have next to no refraction, and the paint can have a smooth surface to the air, resulting in a very smooth refraction pattern, and you can see through the screen. whenever the lcd lets you, that is. (you can test this out by putting a drop of water on a matte etched glass surface and it suddenly becomes fully transparent, because you get much less refraction between the glass and water, and the water droplet has a smooth surface.)
and yeah, like the others are saying, you were peeling off the polarizer. lcds don't block light, they twist the polarization of light. ever played with a pair of polarizers and how you can control how bright or dark they are by just twisting them in regards to each other? lcds do the same thing, they're always sandwiched between two polarizers, just instead of moving the polarizers they twist the light in the gap between them. but if you take off the front polarizer, you don't get more or less light, you just get differently twisted light
I've also done this and you need to leave the water towels a day as its not gonna work earlier than that... and yeah... it should be the front layer not the back but again you need to make sure you soak it well. It's amazing how wet you need to make the polarizing layer for this to work. Annnnd loads of patience.. oops! RIP
The front was the polarizing layer, the back was the LCD. Super easy to tell when you're peeling the LCD apart because it'll look very oily underneath. You'd basically need a super weak polarizer if you want the screen to look clear and still be able to see it.
Sudafed…try it
dont give up! i wanna see it completed successfully!
I felt that "AH AH AH ah ha" in my soul when Jay pinched his fingers. Been there too many times lol
Be nice to have some crazy miniture short-throw projector in the case to create a HUD on the glass.
I love the Mods your willing to try out, when I first got into Computers all I did was try dumb mods cause nothing was new or worked correctly like I needed lol. I ended up shorting my first motherboard by trying to fit a bigger heatsink with out it actually fitting lol, I learned a lot from that experience and eventually saved up enough money to build a brand new system, current gen. I'm glad I learned to tinker before I even tried to build a legit PC. Tinkering is a very important part of learning how things work.
I doubt you tried "dumb mods" - you just tried less risky ones or something in order to learn ;)
It's not dumb unless you do something knowingly wrong or ridiculous.
I'm sure someone in the comments already beat me to this but when you remove the polarizing layer you can't see the image. It's a feature that we've exploited for an instillation where the screen just looks like the backlight and you hang a frame in front of it w polarized lense layer and you can only see the image through the polarized film.
Some manufacturers sandwich the film between the lens sheet and the optic sheet. If they did that you would not be soaking anything to get it to de-laminate cleanly. Might want to be thankful that it didn't have yet another layer sandwiched in there for a touch screen digitizer.
ive done this mod (not on a curved though) with 2 other monitors. 1 older and one cheapo new one. Currently preparing a 55" tv for my super sized wall mount pc
Mondays are garbage, this was delightful to watch. 🤘🧐
As someone who''s done this mod a few times, and done EXACTLY this with one of them...definitely feel your pain.
As for what you did:
Monitors will have 3 layers that are relevant to this mod:
-Anti-glare
-Polarizer
-LCD Substrate
The Anti-glare coating is extremely thin and if soaked properly, you'll see it start to bubble up a bit. When you started pulling and I saw how dark the material that was being pulled was, this told me immediately that you pulled up the polarizer which sits between the Anti-glare and the LCD. I've never attempted this with a more modern monitor, but there's where your main issue started.
I prefer to use monitors without an anti-glare coating if at all possible, and with the right monitor you can run it all off of SATA power so long as you have the right controller board.
My worst failure was using a screen that pulled way too much power and fried my poor controller board.
Upside is you also now have a cheap studio light :V
If you wanna try this again, let me know and I may be able to provide some quick info.
my understanding is the anti-glare is a coating (not a sheet) applied to the screen. There's glass cleaners that even say "warning not intended for anti-glare screens" because it eats it away? wouldn't soaking the towels in that type product just remove that coating?
Most of those are ammonia based, which clouds clear plastic/mylar.
Could try taking a large rubber made container and fillling it with enough water to submerge the screen using only distilled water. then spraying pcb with 99%alcohol afterword's to evap any remaining water.
I'm looking forward to the video where jay succeeds in this journey!
While dihydrogen monoxide is a universal solvent, it requires a lengthy amount of time to adequately dissolve adhesive.
I suggest a stronger solvent, say high % isopropyl, wd40, brake clean, or if you know where to get it dibutoxymethane. Talk about an awesome solvent. Also, it works great as a degreaser, removes fifth wheel grease with ease.
Grab some polarized sunglasses and have a look at the spots where you cut the polarizing layer off. Rotate them 45 degrees at a time until you find the proper alignment.
OMG, that open box cutter that Jay kept placing his hand next to and using the unsheathed razor blade was really getting to me
Just polish and buff out the anti-glare surface to glossy shine.
Lots of sniffling, I suggest Xyzal for the SoCal allergy season.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 this was expected of you, with how things usually go for you, Jay!
Isn't what you were peeling off the polarising filter, not the display itself? You'd need a polarising filter to block the rotated light against the unrotated light. You could check with a camera pol filter or sunglasses.
What drill did you use to remove the pcb?
Also, doesnt LG make Transparent OLED panels, would you be able to get one of those?
I tried to do this once for the front of my Core P5 wall-mounted case. My brother came into my room to bum a beer, and accidentally stepped on it, after I had taken it out and successfully gotten it to work in its bare form.
Jay pulls pulls the little board out of the moniter and says "we should water cool it"😂
Lol you can always rely on jay to entertain you whether if it’s with tech advice or just plain chaos hehe def wanna see this work tho in footoor
The first time I watched a tech "peel" and cowered in fear, haha
Good video. Side question...and maybe I missed it somewhere...but are you doing 25cents of jayzmas?
The immediate thought to watercool anything you see cause your brain is so hardwired was really funny
Jay: Did ads for "IFIXIT" in the past a lot (- I got some of their tools myself and even fixed some phones - broken displays and cameras - using them)
Also Jay: Breaks open a brand new monitor with a screw driver and pure violence
😂
Just an idea but maybe you could try one of those commercial monitors they use for advertisements, have a feeling the build quality on those would be cheaper and less issue with the layers.
I actually turned a old box fan into a monitor because my light tubes burnt out. But yes older monitors work great as most layers are just inserts instead of glued together.
"Cables and Crap, don't care about any of that." Cool JTC shirt idea. ;)
Where did you get that precision screwdriver? Amazon?
I am curious, can you use like all the stuff from that monitor to make just a screen work. with no control thingy etc. not sure if that makes sense or not. use the control of that monitor and grab a blank monitor or like just display or something idk then get it to work.?.
Love the "experimenting J and Phil trolling" theme 😂😂
I love these vids but can we please edit out the sniffles? It makes it hard to watch.
Get an older lcd monitor or a glossy panel monitor, older is by far easier i did this mod awhile back it's time consuming but fun and looks neat, hardest part is running wires. I used an old Dell square "flat screen" lcd monitor(resolution was terrible it was below 720p and it was relatively thick looking though most of that was it's power supply)
Contact LG ask for the screen parts un-assembled?
It's really cool to see this kind of thing Jay, but it would really help if you give us some "Need to know" details, for those of us who never heard of doing such a thing, like: What do you mean by use it as a "Clear LCD panel"? Do you mean see through maybe? because clear and see through are not one and the same thing, maybe "Semi-transparent" is a better word. You never explained what removing the anti glare layer (which could be just a coating you cannot remove without some specific chemical and method...) is good for... All I got is "I tried a difficult thing flying blind and broked it"!
He means without a backlight layer, because they're going to provide the backlighting via the internal case lighting. The anti-glare layer is dark because monitors have pretty powerful backlighting(at least compared to the lighting in your case), so that layer needs to come off to really be able to get a visible image with significantly less backlighting.
The front film on a monitor is a polarizer, not the LCD.
I almost tried the coating thing once back in the day.
That was with 27" 1440p when that size was really new and the Dell U2711 monitor was like $800, only I felt the anti-reflective coating was just robbing me of letting the monitor be all it could be. However with me realizing I would be stuck with a 24" if the project failed I ended up not doing it. Maybe I should dig out the think from the basement a try now just to try.
My thinking is that not all monitors are build to do the coating thing, but also that just starting with an OLED is likely the better if perhaps more expensive way to go.
still using my u2711 and don't want to change.
@@damirkvajo It is a great monitor for sure.
I moved to a 40" 4K Philips like 5-6 years ago and for a while I used the Dell as #2 monitor with it rotated 90 degrees, however eventually I came to the conclusion I hardly ever looked at it. The 40" 4K offers close to the same dpi as the Dell so for their different size it was a great combo, it is just I don't need desktop area. at work it is a different thing and there I do run a 40" 4K + a 27" 1440p.
Probably not relevant but, what about turn the LCD screen on and letting it heat up for a while to help soften the adhesive layer before pealing off? Just thinking about when you are trying to remove the heat sink from a video card sometimes it helps to heat up the GPU before removing?
Typically, it's not the LCD screen itself that get's warm, it's the backlight heating it up from the back. Those LED's handle a stupid amount of power per LED (94V's and up per strip with LED's in serial with each strip is not uncommon) and usually use the metal backing they are stuck down on for dissipating heat (which is why the back of the case of a modern monitor can feel much warmer than the front).
I've been pinchin' pennies to save up for a new or used monitor for my 1660 Super to run . Thx for the content !
You need a lot more water on the towels and you need to keep it very wet. In every shot where you try to peel the layer off, the towel looks very dry. Also, a couple of hours is way to little. 24 hours sounds more right.
He even mentioned it takes anywhere from a couple hours to 24 hours of soaking. I would have just been safe and went with the full 24. Not that it would have helped in this situation but...
Jay you got to use HOT water bur not boiling hot. Just Hot water from the tap spray that on your shop towels and keep them wet with the Hot water. This will melt the adhesive enough for it to come off in one piece
Think you removed the polarizing layer. Should have taken a polarizer rotate it on parts you couldn't see the image to confirm if it was the case before leaving it for dead and destroying the panel.
More water and longer soak time (i would do as close to 24 hours as you can to be sure) and need an older monitor or one you can find out that the anti glare layer is not also acting as a polarizer layer as well. It should peel up clean. A flat monitor is more likely to have the anti glare as its own layer too.
If you still have that piece, you should consider soaking it for a day just to see if soaking time does make a larger impact on the process.