Amen to all these comments! As I am in the middle of idle tuning on my 2000 Miata hot side mp62 my challenge was too eliminate the pesky dummy TB .this video got me to idle rev it and not fall flat all on a duel throttle body setup and best of all I can control my idle valve ! Could never do that the way it was set up before. Still a long way to go ! This guy is super clear and explains in detail to understand easily !👍🏼👍🏼
These videos are seriously some of, if not the best Megasquirt/Tuner Studio series on TH-cam. I greatly appreciate you going into what everything does as opposed to just what to set it to. Thanks for the awesome videos! They surely deserve more views. Looking forward to putting a Speeduino on my 12AT first gen RX-7 with all this info.
I really appreciate you making these videos. I'm surprised this doesn't have more views. I'll be sure to share this with my friends because this is the best tutorial for Megasquirt by far!!!
Can't thank you enough for these videos. Lockdown has me looking much farther into tuning my turbo Miata on my own now. It's already been dyno tuned but the tuner didn't spend much time in the idle and street driving area of the tune, which I'm now cleaning up little by little. This video helps make sense of everything so very well, great job.
Very much appreciate the feedback! Yeah I had found that a lot of resources to learn this stuff either covered just the very first part of getting it in the car or were very detailed and geared towards someone pretty familiar with tuner studio already or at least general tuning. I was shooting for something in between to get people started. Thanks for watching!
@@OGPedXing Just got back from an hour or so of running some tweaks and taking some datalogs, very cool to see a response from you already! I'm also playing with a boost controller today. After playing with the idle for about a half hour I wasn't able to improve it sadly, but I'm at least learning from my mistakes. Have to go another round watching the video to pick up on what I did incorrectly, there were definitely a few things! I understand there could be a lot of trail and error here, and this video is very thorough for me to be able to use as a reference to my attempts, so seriously, thank you! Idle is currently good enough but not the easiest to drive with on the street, a big issue would be having a lightweight flywheel that causes some harsh idle droop when coming to a stop and even after revving. Hoping a VTPS will help some functions of the idle control which will be coming soon, but the only thing that's specifically got me stumped is my car will only startup easy with the valve frequency set to 440hz, anything lower will cause a fast rise of RPM as high as 3,000+ when set to 250hz. Will give closed loop idle another look but open loop @440hz is currently still the most streetable and consistent. Next time I'm going to attempt to get the range of the idle valve confirmed with the test mode, and lower my values in the idle cranking duty/steps section to fix the initial high idle, hopefully. (Vehicle is a 1993 1.6 turbo Miata.)
@@carcrobatics cool, sounds like you're getting there. For closed loop and rpm droop when entering idle, bump up your iacv initial values. This will help get the air open quickly and then it will settle in to hit your target rpm. The vtps will help with a number of situations so that's good you're getting it installed. Also look at what your afr does right when entering idle. Getting the fuel ve table pretty close will help make everything smoother and easier to deal with. For the iacv frequency...basically a higher freq makes the duty "steps" bigger so the same number change makes a bigger affect on the actual air. Once you get the fuel in the idle dialed in and you want to remove any hunting the lower freq will give more control. Typically I see around 170 hz to 200 for na6. But this is not the only thing that will work, 440 can be fine.
Very glad I came across this. Carpassionchannel is awesome, but you really get into the guts of tuning. Thanks so much! Looking forward to watching the rest of the series.
I just want to leave a big THANK YOU! i just fine tuned the idle on my car from watching your video. And mine is a ford 5.0 v8. Pretty much same settings. Once again. Thank you!
Just installed a MSPNP2 on my 99 Miata. It now has a stable idle thanks to your vid. It dies immediately after turning on the A/C but otherwise it's stable enough with just some fine tuning needed. Thank you again.
@@OGPedXingI’ve got a 1995.5 Miata with a ms3, when doing the AC idle up I take it you have to run a wire from the ac button or compressor in to a open input then select it in tuner studio But then I’m confused what to do with the output, I’m stupid
Great video. Thank you very much. Before this i doesnt understand some of the features, now ist clear. Now i will start again to do a better setup to my engine.
Appreciate it! Yeah, it's a slow learning curve having to go through a ton on documents, many out of date, plus the forums to get everything you need. I decided to try to condense it in a way that is more approachable.
I must be blind, I found my PWM duties using the i/o test mode with engine off and doing the "listening to valve" method. Never looked further down to see you can test it with engine running. i'm stupid.
Thanks for this helpful video! Could you please help me a bit with the idle control valve and the fan control as while I was tuning an NB Miata the idle revs went to 5000rpm or so while the fan went on. Some how the fan is using FIDLE output which is supposed to belong to the IAC. I have no clue which settings to use for the fan. MS2 PNP (Reverant) and 1998 NB 1.8 turbo
I’ve followed most of things you’ve covered in your video and I still can’t get my idle down when I start it it starts at 2 rpm then slowly goes up as it heats up to 2,500 rpm then it stops right there any advice to try to get it down?
Sir, what is PWM idle control valve?? My car i20 1.2 petrol has 3 pins connector to its idle air control valve. Pin 2 gives 12.6 v when grounded. However, pin 1 and 3 gives only about 10.5 V when measure with respect to positive post of battery. Why I'm not getting 12.6 V??? Also, very surprising is that, when pin 1 and 3 are grounded individually, they still give about 1.5 volt. Is there something current nor voltage leaks??? Our main issue is pin 1 and 3. Please find me solutions!! Thanks.
In the Cli Initial Value Tables and the Idle Cranking Duty Table, is Idle Valve duty % relative or absolute? Is 50% setting the valve to 50% duty or is it putting it halfway between your min/max settings?
Man I really appreciate the time you took to make these videos. What is the best way to get in touch with you? I have quite a few questions regarding my tune and was wondering if you could help me out. Thanks again.
Your video was very informative. I have a question about first start up. I have a blown BBC with Megasquirt II. It starts up, runs for a few seconds and dies. No sputter. It just stops. It does the same thing every time. The plugs are dry. I am guessing that it is too lean. What do you think I can do to keep my engine running after startup - adjust VE table, ASE, WUE, etc?
One scenario where this happens is you've got enough fuel configured when cranking and for after start enrichment but when that ends, you are suddenly way too lean. This means your fuel ve table is too lean overall. I'd start by selecting all the idle cells and multiplying them by 1.1 or 1.2 to give them 10 to 20% more fuel. You may have to actually reduce your ASE amount when you do this so it's not super rich to begin with. Keep it running however you can until warmup is complete and then get your afr set to a good number like 14.0 and stable. Then you can go back and fix after start enrichment and warm up enrichment values.
@@OGPedXing I increased the idle cells by 10%. Instead of running for 2 seconds, it ran for about 5 seconds. An improvement. When I increased the idle cells by another 10%, it did the same thing except it seemed to struggle a little to start and it ran a little rougher. When I lowered the ASE, that did not seem to help. The plugs are still dry. I’m thinking that if the VE table is not in the ball park, adding or subtracting fuel may not help. I set up my VE table using the table generator: supercharger, idle 70 kpa, peak power 170 kpa, 431 cid. Does that seem reasonable? Thanks for your help Jim
Is there a way to find the limits of the IAC before you start the engine by using the Output Test Mode? I had the car at my tuner and he actually changes the manual stops on the butterfly on the throttle body. I'm now trying to correct this. Thanks in advance. Love your content.
One thing you can do is if you take the iac off of the throttle body then you can look inside and see a small rod and diaphragm. If you leave it plugged in you can activate it via the test modes and see the diaphragm move. When it stops moving one way or the other, that's the full open and closed duty cycle.
Question, when I activated the IDLE VE my car immediately stalled. Do you copy the settings from the actual VE Table first and then play with them from there?
First off, Tuner studio will display parameters that go with the firmware loaded on your megasquirt. There are some defaults that go with that. But the main thing is in general you can find a base map aka a tune file that is customized with values for your vehicle and engine. For the Miata you can get them from trubokitty.net. for lots of other cars you can get them from diyautotune.com and also msextra.com forums. Once you have that as a start you can use the info in the vids to dial in what you need to get it running smoothly.
You can typically find some defaults to put in, for example for an NA Miata, you can put in 30 percent (closed) and 70 % (fully open) duty cycles and it will be close. What car model and year do you have? Also try increasing fuel to get idle more steady, most engines like rich better than lean to idle. Also you may want to use fixed timing to take out another variable.
@@OGPedXing my issue was actually too much fuel. I thought the stock injectors were 210 instead of 265, it idles now and I was able to check my timing. Need to install my wideband and I should be on the ground running!
Hey I have a 94 Miata with MS3pro PNP and for some reason my A/C fans are not turning on. in the ac tab the input polarity is on inverted, would setting this to Normal get the condenser fan to turn on?
@@OGPedXing Thanks input and output are definitely correct. I sent a copy of my current tune to DIY they wanted to look at it. My tuner was having a time with sorting out my EBC I have the older version from DIY could you take a look at the settings for that for me if I sent you the tune?
@@Rumnhammer sure, pm me on Instagram or send to my email listed on the about the channel tab on TH-cam. (Not putting it in the comments because of the spammers)😄
How come MS never extends graphing functions (like warm-up and priming, etc) past the moderately cold temperatures? For priming pulse, for example, my base map shows the graph data going down to 10 degrees fahrenheit. But what happens when I start my car at 9 degrees F? Should we all be extending these graphing numbers out to the edges of the graphs?
The MS will use the value of the lowest cell for any lower temps and the highest cell for any temps higher than the graph. So you only need to extend it if you need a different value for say 10f vs like -30f. So you can pick a range based on your normal weather or else tweak it for winter vs summer if needed.
Hey man, I’ve been using TS with mega squirt for a little bit now and for some reason when I do a hot restart on the car after about 30 min it will go extremely lean like 16 afr at idle and the car start hiccuping, once I start driving it goes away, how can I fix this ?
If the tune was working previously then it may be a mechanical issue. Hot start problems are super common. Most can be caused by a vacuum leak so check the hoses but also you may want to check your fuel pressure, may be a sign of your fuel pump going out. It can also be related to a sticky idle valve letting in too much air when warm but unsticks once it actuates a bit after driving.
@@johnberumen1666 just to double check the iat, you can set the mat air density table to flat at 100%. Many tunes have this way too aggressive, partly because of the code itself. It pulls way too much fuel. Even slight heat soak of the sensor or the intake air when first started will cause it to lean out badly.
For the Cranking RPM, is there any drawback to using a higher number? The way my NB2 Miata was tuned, the tuner set Cranking RPM to 700. I'm going back over my tune and nitpicking some little things here and there to improve the kind of stuff that would be unreasonable for a dude with a dyno to get perfect in a couple hours.
The main thing is you don't want it to think it's cranking when it's actually running/idling already. Since 850 is the typical idle and it can drop a bit under load or when not tuned, 700 is usually considered high. Typically 350 is used but up to 500 is fine. You want 100-200 above the typical crank so it will start tapering to normal run quickly.
Hi Patrick are these the settings your using in your miata?, your video here has finally showed how to get mine to start without pushing the throttle. If these are on your miata i would like to duplicate to get mine running better.
Yes pretty much. I have a tune I use for these videos just to make sure viewers can follow along without any tweaks being made off camera. For misc testing I do have another tune which is what I run day to day but in some ways that test tune may be worse that this one in the videos. At the moment the main difference I have is I'm using PID control rather than basic/simple but they are otherwise the same.
Thanks for the good explanations. If my idle is already weird, should I install MS and use it for diagnostics? My car currently idles anywhere between 850 to 1700. After I get off the throttle, it first starts to idle at 1700 then slowly drops to 1500. Once at 1500, it will stay in that range for a completely random amount of time before either slowly dropping to the low 1000s or dropping to 850. Additionally, no matter what my idle speed is, the rpm seems to seek a pretty significant amount that I can hear and see in the tach. Thus far, I haven't been able to diagnose much other than it's probably the iacv or iacv gasket, and the only reason I know that is from unplugging the iacv solenoid and the car will immediately drop down to normal, but the idle will still seek. Also, I introduced a slight vacuum leak (by unplugging my map line which is currently on the back of the manifold) and it seemed to make little to no difference. Note: this is on a 1.8 and all my testing was done after the car was warm. Also, my iacv solenoid measures well within the factory impedance spec. Thanks a bunch for any help you can provide Here are some videos showcasing the issue: th-cam.com/video/1wHdd4kARRc/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/vZdJJiX_Mzs/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/ReWvR1LR4hk/w-d-xo.html
The MS can give you a lot of info from logs but it can also add variables that complicate things. I'd start with fixing it with the stock ECU. Typically high idle means too much air...either a vacuum leak or IAC. Did this just start happening or did you get the car recently and it's always done this? The reason I ask is the idle screw may have been opened to much by a previous owner to compensate for something else. So the IAC may actually be ok. Unplugging it should close it which it seems to do since the RPM drops down again. If it were stuck unplugging it wouldn't do any thing. I'd guess there may be more vacuum leaks and you could also try cleaning the maf sensor and throttle body. Just the no touch spray cleaner. This can help with a surging/hunting idle as well.
@@OGPedXing I'll be sure to test for that tomorrow, but not that I've noticed. It's idle very slightly changes when I first let the clutch off after startup, though I think that's just from being under slight load. I'll also be testing the idle screw adjustment and try to clean the maf a little with some contact cleaner. Thanks a bunch for the continued help!
When I adjust my idle valve in the test mode the rpm’s go down as I increase the number and go up as I decrease the number. Any idea on why this would be happening?
The most common reason is the megasquirt is wired for inverse polarity. On that same screen there's a checkbox to enable that and it will basically reverse things. The second possibility is once you go over the top duty cycle it will begin closing again. For example on mine if I go to about 70% then it's fully open but higher than that and it closes again.
That can be ok...if it idled ok before the megasquirt you probably don't need to mess with the air screw. At about 70 duty cycle it should be fully open and not go higher. With it fully warmed you can test at the higher end. If it didn't idle well before on the stock ECU or you bought the car with the megasquirt, then you can adjust the idle screw. There may also be another small vacuum leak that's allowing in extra air.
@@OGPedXing bought the car completely stock, idle was fine. I tested it with it fully warmed up the rpm's were still climbing past 70% duty and 3500, 4k rpm. As well as it still lowering past 25% duty. Ill look for a unseen or heard vacuum leak. i have a slight idle hunt 800 to bot 1100 every 5 seconds or so after sitting at a light for more than 10 15 seconds. Im about to review some logs and try and see whats going on but im not to proficient in TS but by no means a complete noob. Thx for the reply.
Great video. But I still need help. Replaced IAC and now it idles high. Have tried turn on and off. Drive at a steady speed Extended IAC plunger idle great until restarting back to high idle. Any help appreciated.
You can take the iac out of the equation by just unplugging it. If it's still idling high then I'd look for a vacuum leak... potentially anywhere in the system. You may want to reset the idle screw as well. I've seen it where a previous owner compensated for a failing valve by opening up the screw all the way and letting in too much air.
No vacuum leaks. If seat the IAC closed manually then reinstall it idles perfectly. The IAC is not closing all of the way. Not sure which section of tuner I need to go to closed the IAC. I am technically handicap.
Is this a new valve or a used one? Also what's the year of the car and what settings are you using for idle control (closed loop or open) and what duty cycle range and frequency do you have set up?
Got my car idling and that is all good. When I blip the throttle it revs up but dies on the idle down. Where should I look to correct that? Thanks in advance
Couple of things to try. You can increase the dashpot which will add duty cycle to the iacv for that amount of time, try 1.2 or 1.5 seconds. Otherwise you can bump up the idle air initial values for the RPM and load it typically enters idle at.
Thanks... while the car is running from initial start up is all good... if I restart the car it starts hunting. I will tray the dashpot tomorrow. Hate to be a bother but I’m making lots of headway very fast.
Thank you! I have a question. I have MS ultra but I don't see the Idle VE settings like yours does. Are there different lvls of MS ultra as well? or did they take out that feature and/or put it somewhere else? Thanks again for all your knowledge
I have version 3.0.28 of tuner studio ultra, I haven't updated in a while. Make sure it says "Registered To" and then your name at the top of the window otherwise it won't be activated. Go to Help -> Update Registration to set it up. Then the idle ve should be under Startup/Idle menu, last item, Idle Ve Settings.
@@OGPedXing I got it all registered and shows just like you said. I saw down below that someone had the same thing happen to them since they are running ms2 pnp vs your ms3.
@@shinobi1203 ah yes, some features may not be available or may look different on the ms2. Actually it's not a problem, I tried it without idle ve and I have plenty of range with just the normal ve table. You may want to change the rpm range on the ve table around there so you can have 800, 1000, and 1200 and then have large jumps.
@@OGPedXing So I used a lot of the base map you showed and it was a great starting point. I got a nonseeking idle, but i for some reason, can't get my idle any lower than 1000-1100rpm. Would you mind looking at my tune if I take some pictures of it? or just send you my tune directly?
@@shinobi1203 If the idle won't go down to 850 and the idle air valve is closed all the way then the physical idle adjustment screw may be too far out or there might be a vacuum leak. However if it idled fine with the stock ECU then it's probably still the tune. My email is on the channel About page and you can send the tune file. You have to be on the desktop browser version of TH-cam to see it though, the email button doesn't show up in the mobile app or the mobile site for some reason. Or DM me on Instagram. 👍
Hey, so whenever I start the car it hunts extremely bad and won't stay running. But once the idle adv and idle ve kicks in it idles beautiful. Im pulling my hair out trying to change things but I keep going in circles
Likely a fuel issue but there are two possibilities. First is just up the after start enrichment and warm up enrichment. Bump those up and see if it will settle down. Second may be the fuel table itself...once it's warmed up tweak the fuel first without idle advance and ego turned on. It should be relatively stable without those if the fuel ve numbers are dialed in. Next, from a timing perspective, I like to idle at about 15-18 in the table prior to whatever idle advance adds later. A tip is to increase the idle cells to 18 or so below your target idle. So when the car is about to stall, the advance in the table will pop it back up.
Ah gotcha. For an LS the same advice will work but for the timing numbers use for the lower end, like the 600 rpm row, an advance of your normal idle plus 3 to 5.
You can also start kind of in the middle and work your way down. Like start at 40 and go down until rpms stop dropping which should be around 25 to 30. If it's stalling before that then your idle screw may be all the way closed. Same for full open...start at 50 or so and continue up until the rpm stops rising. Usually about 70.
@@OGPedXing For some reason I didn't think NB2 had an idle screw. I'll check it out. I start at 30ish and it usually stalls below 26 as I slowly go down.
Is it a stock throttle body or aftermarket of some kind? If stock, I'd try to get a replacement screw installed otherwise you will have a vacuum leak. If there's no port for a screw you can make it work but your idle valve duty cycle will probably be a lot higher.
@@OGPedXing It is a throttle body from a very old car which was made to fit with this custom plenum I also got with the same deal. The screw and the place is there but the throttle plate is fully closed currently.
Depending on the throttle body, the screw will open up an internal passage allowing some air past the plate. The other option is to adjust the throttle cable tension so it holds the plate open just a tiny amount.
@@OGPedXing maybe I wasn't quite clear with the question but anyway I apreciate alot that you are answering. I meant to ask that how I should adjust the screw before I start to mess around with the ICV? I believe if I have the screw and ICV completely off and try to adjust it with a closed loop, I'm in a big mess?
Oh ok, yeah try to get the car to idle at a normal rpm with the icv unplugged. Open the screw all the way, start the car...rpms will probably be high. Slowly adjust the screw until it comes down but doesn't stall. This may take a couple of rounds if your fuel table isn't tuned yet. But then you can plug the icv back in and start tuning closed loop.
Hi FRIEND. Anyone who knows the ANSWER can help. i happen to have a Volvo 940.1994 regina model B230 engine. I measure only the crank sensor while it is installed and cranking.I read between 100-120mv. But i can find any ready in my trigger logger of rpm nothing.the firmware sas MS2 3.4.1 trigger pattern is 44-2-2 preset in microsquirt, do you have any ideas what to do? i have no spark either. the sensor has 3 wire. red/blue/bleack seems to be the shield. red and blue reads 196.6 ohm .three weeks trying to find the answer. there are many gues. Pls help. regards
The lack of spark may be just it can't get sync with the crank signal so it doesn't know when to fire. I'm not familiar with that engine but in addition to the trigger wheel setting in tuner studio, research what signal settings it needs such as rising edge vs falling edge, etc. This is on the same ignition settings screen as the wheel setup. You also want to make sure the crank angle is close for your engine and that the physical jumpers on the Ms are set for the right sensor type, optical, magnetic, etc. Check out this for more info..www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/volvo/megasquirt-your-240-740-940/
I have a mazda mx3 with a klze and I'm running it on a mspnp2 9395 model I tried to follow the same things you were doing in your set up videos but when my car is cold it runs lean. I tried to add fuel in the cold start settings but it won't stay running what can I do?
How long does it run before dying with the new settings? If it seems to start ok and stay good for a few seconds then start to die, you may need to up the Warm Up Enrichment even more. This is because the ASE is giving it the fuel it needs but this stops after 5-10 seconds. Second you can check the Idle settings -- you may want to make the target rpm a bit higher in that temp range, and also check the idle air valve duty cycle %. This last one can be non-intuitive because sometimes you actually want less air intake. In cold temps, the air is denser and you need more fuel to compensate.
Yes, you'll need to use the RPM to determine exactly when the idle valve is fully open and fully closed. Although usually you can put in a ballpark value and be close. An na Miata for example is usually 30 to 70. Then it will be plus or minus 5 for each value. A quick way is start at 40 and go lower slowly until the RPM stops dropping. Then go to 60 and go up until it stops rising.
@@usagimoto1423 ok yeah, that's a different story. In that case I'd put it on open loop idle and change the fuel table until you can get it to run closer to normal. After start enrichment and warm up enrichment will magnify a fuel table that's really off also.
What frequency do you have it set at? You can try around 100 to start...lowet frequency will give smaller steps, higher will give larger steps. You can actually verify that it's doing something by running the test screen with engine off...you can hear the hum usually. If needed, you can even take it off the throttle body and visually verify movement. It may also be an electrical or mechanical problem with the valve rather than the MS.
Likely the fuel ve table is a little lean but your warmup enrichment is a little rich which is compensating for it. Let it warm up and fix the fuel table (add a little fuel) then you can go back to warmup enrichment and after start enrichment and lower those a bit.
@@OGPedXing I'm going to try that thank you very much... I was wondering can we connect via team Viewer And maybe you can help me out better If you have time ?
No unfortunately tuner studio only works with aftermarket ECUs like megasquirt, Speeduino, rusefi, etc. Obd2 tuners work with a stock ECU on certain car models/years.
Yeah unfortunately the speeduino is pretty basic compared to the megasquirt. The main fuel ve and spark stuff is similar but that's about it. I have some unpublished stuff on taking a speeduino pnp for an na1 miata and making it work for an na2 (94-97). I couldn't believe how bad the base tune was... I had to throw it out and start over. The PID control on speeduino is not good either. I didn't want to start making videos on it if I didn't have a good solution by the end. My car finally ran fine, it was still pretty rough compared to the stock like smoothness of the ms. So I haven't gotten around to putting anything out on the speeduino platform.
@@OGPedXing haha had I realized I was practically shooting myself in the foot I wouldn't have done it, but oh well guess I'll figure it out. I guess this is why research is important 😂 Also thanks for responding to a comment on a 4 year old video, had no clue you were even still around
Yeah, I mean it will definitely run your car. But it will be more trial and error. One thing that made a big difference was to check the injection angle table. It was set up to squirt when the valves were still closed, meaning it would pool on top. Not good. Things got easier once I fixed that. You can compare a similar table on a megasquirt tune to get the right values.
Yes most everything will be good since my car is a 94 1.8. The main places where cars vary individually is in the idle valve duty cycle and generally dialing in the after start and warm up enrichments.
The tuning videos will apply to any car that you can use the Megasquirt. Especially for a 4 cylinder mazda, it will likely be similar. Check out diyautotune.com to see if they have a base tune for your car.
It's a 94 that I originally tuned naturally aspirated, but then added a turbo. The tuning series (check out the playlist) goes through the whole process and is pretty directly compatible with any year Miata but also mostly good for tuning any megasquirt ECU car.
@@OGPedXing works the same with speedyefi system i would assume. Thats what I have. I just installed it Friday. Been trying to learn and absorb as much information as possible before I go messing with it much.
Yes, speedyefi or any of the speeduino based ECUs should work the same, they are all tuner studio. Some screens may look slightly different than the videos because tuner studio changes the look and feel based on the ECU type but it is close to the same.
Yes! This was shot before I had my turbo installed. I actually recommend to learn tuning on a naturally aspirated car so that later at higher power levels you know how to do it and be safe for the engine.
I’m on a base map now from MS noticed a lot of your setting are different and there are some I don’t have was wondering if you might have that map before you set up turbo cause I don’t have the dyno tuner and tuning the idle is getting a little scary lol
I’m on a base map now from MS noticed a lot of your setting are different and there are some I don’t have was wondering if you might have that map before you set up turbo cause I don’t have the dyno tuner and tuning the idle is getting a little scary lol
I’m on a base map now from MS noticed a lot of your setting are different but I guess that expected since I have a 97 just running is tricky for me this is all new and I’m in the woods lol
I’m on a base map now from MS noticed a lot of your setting are different but I guess that expected since I have a 97 just running is tricky for me this is all new and I’m in the woods lol
Amen to all these comments! As I am in the middle of idle tuning on my 2000 Miata hot side mp62 my challenge was too eliminate the pesky dummy TB .this video got me to idle rev it and not fall flat all on a duel throttle body setup and best of all I can control my idle valve ! Could never do that the way it was set up before. Still a long way to go ! This guy is super clear and explains in detail to understand easily !👍🏼👍🏼
These videos are seriously some of, if not the best Megasquirt/Tuner Studio series on TH-cam. I greatly appreciate you going into what everything does as opposed to just what to set it to. Thanks for the awesome videos! They surely deserve more views. Looking forward to putting a Speeduino on my 12AT first gen RX-7 with all this info.
I really appreciate you making these videos. I'm surprised this doesn't have more views. I'll be sure to share this with my friends because this is the best tutorial for Megasquirt by far!!!
Thanks for helping to get the word out! Glad it helped.
Can't thank you enough for these videos. Lockdown has me looking much farther into tuning my turbo Miata on my own now. It's already been dyno tuned but the tuner didn't spend much time in the idle and street driving area of the tune, which I'm now cleaning up little by little. This video helps make sense of everything so very well, great job.
Very much appreciate the feedback! Yeah I had found that a lot of resources to learn this stuff either covered just the very first part of getting it in the car or were very detailed and geared towards someone pretty familiar with tuner studio already or at least general tuning. I was shooting for something in between to get people started. Thanks for watching!
@@OGPedXing Just got back from an hour or so of running some tweaks and taking some datalogs, very cool to see a response from you already! I'm also playing with a boost controller today. After playing with the idle for about a half hour I wasn't able to improve it sadly, but I'm at least learning from my mistakes. Have to go another round watching the video to pick up on what I did incorrectly, there were definitely a few things! I understand there could be a lot of trail and error here, and this video is very thorough for me to be able to use as a reference to my attempts, so seriously, thank you! Idle is currently good enough but not the easiest to drive with on the street, a big issue would be having a lightweight flywheel that causes some harsh idle droop when coming to a stop and even after revving. Hoping a VTPS will help some functions of the idle control which will be coming soon, but the only thing that's specifically got me stumped is my car will only startup easy with the valve frequency set to 440hz, anything lower will cause a fast rise of RPM as high as 3,000+ when set to 250hz. Will give closed loop idle another look but open loop @440hz is currently still the most streetable and consistent. Next time I'm going to attempt to get the range of the idle valve confirmed with the test mode, and lower my values in the idle cranking duty/steps section to fix the initial high idle, hopefully. (Vehicle is a 1993 1.6 turbo Miata.)
@@carcrobatics cool, sounds like you're getting there. For closed loop and rpm droop when entering idle, bump up your iacv initial values. This will help get the air open quickly and then it will settle in to hit your target rpm. The vtps will help with a number of situations so that's good you're getting it installed. Also look at what your afr does right when entering idle. Getting the fuel ve table pretty close will help make everything smoother and easier to deal with. For the iacv frequency...basically a higher freq makes the duty "steps" bigger so the same number change makes a bigger affect on the actual air. Once you get the fuel in the idle dialed in and you want to remove any hunting the lower freq will give more control. Typically I see around 170 hz to 200 for na6. But this is not the only thing that will work, 440 can be fine.
one of the best megasquirt tutorial series on TH-cam... so much detail! :-)
Thanks! Maybe too much detail :). But my goal was to have one place that covered concepts plus actually setting up the numbers.
Very glad I came across this. Carpassionchannel is awesome, but you really get into the guts of tuning. Thanks so much! Looking forward to watching the rest of the series.
I just want to leave a big THANK YOU! i just fine tuned the idle on my car from watching your video. And mine is a ford 5.0 v8. Pretty much same settings. Once again. Thank you!
Awesome,thanks for the comments, glad it helped!
Great stuff, thank you so much! I'm running an 04 Cobra Mustang but this explanation is the best I've seen.
Can't thank you enough for these videos man. Really makes understanding how to use megasquirt easier
Thanks for watching!
Just installed a MSPNP2 on my 99 Miata. It now has a stable idle thanks to your vid. It dies immediately after turning on the A/C but otherwise it's stable enough with just some fine tuning needed. Thank you again.
Nice! Now you just need to dial in that idle up rpm to make it stable with ac.
@@OGPedXingI’ve got a 1995.5 Miata with a ms3, when doing the AC idle up I take it you have to run a wire from the ac button or compressor in to a open input then select it in tuner studio But then I’m confused what to do with the output, I’m stupid
Great video. Thank you very much. Before this i doesnt understand some of the features, now ist clear. Now i will start again to do a better setup to my engine.
You are awesome. This has explained so much more than anything else.
You can run a tap water pipe in the engine and tune as many as you want cold starts : )
Nice. It's good to play with ignition advance because it gives instant result for changes in load. See Andy's (adaptronics ECU guy) on idle ignition.
GREAT VID. i have a 90 miata swapping a 99 motor in it... wondering if you can help me out with the tune when i have it all done.
Great video, there's not a lot of support out there for megasquirt and everything is terribly cryptic.
Appreciate it! Yeah, it's a slow learning curve having to go through a ton on documents, many out of date, plus the forums to get everything you need. I decided to try to condense it in a way that is more approachable.
@@OGPedXing Definetly helpful
I must be blind, I found my PWM duties using the i/o test mode with engine off and doing the "listening to valve" method.
Never looked further down to see you can test it with engine running. i'm stupid.
You videos are a great resource thanks
I appreciate it, thanks!
Thanks for this helpful video! Could you please help me a bit with the idle control valve and the fan control as while I was tuning an NB Miata the idle revs went to 5000rpm or so while the fan went on. Some how the fan is using FIDLE output which is supposed to belong to the IAC. I have no clue which settings to use for the fan. MS2 PNP (Reverant) and 1998 NB 1.8 turbo
Amazing information! Do i need MS3 for Idle VE? I have a 91 1.6 on MSPNP2 with MS Ultra software.
Incredible job, thank you so much
Thank you for your gorgeous explanation.
In after start enrichment, what afr do you suggest to have?
A little rich is fine. 14.0 or even the high 13s and then it will settle to 14 to 14.7 when warm.
I’ve followed most of things you’ve covered in your video and I still can’t get my idle down when I start it it starts at 2 rpm then slowly goes up as it heats up to 2,500 rpm then it stops right there any advice to try to get it down?
Sir, what is PWM idle control valve??
My car i20 1.2 petrol has 3 pins connector to its idle air control valve. Pin 2 gives 12.6 v when grounded. However, pin 1 and 3 gives only about 10.5 V when measure with respect to positive post of battery. Why I'm not getting 12.6 V???
Also, very surprising is that, when pin 1 and 3 are grounded individually, they still give about 1.5 volt. Is there something current nor voltage leaks??? Our main issue is pin 1 and 3.
Please find me solutions!! Thanks.
In the Cli Initial Value Tables and the Idle Cranking Duty Table, is Idle Valve duty % relative or absolute? Is 50% setting the valve to 50% duty or is it putting it halfway between your min/max settings?
Well done video!
Man I really appreciate the time you took to make these videos. What is the best way to get in touch with you? I have quite a few questions regarding my tune and was wondering if you could help me out. Thanks again.
Thanks! I guess TH-cam took away PMs at some point but you can find me on miataturbo.net or Miata.net (user is pedxing) and direct message me.
@@OGPedXing its a good idea to ask here so other users with the same problem can find information
Feel free to ask here as well if you have questions.
Your video was very informative. I have a question about first start up. I have a blown BBC with Megasquirt II. It starts up, runs for a few seconds and dies. No sputter. It just stops. It does the same thing every time. The plugs are dry. I am guessing that it is too lean. What do you think I can do to keep my engine running after startup - adjust VE table, ASE, WUE, etc?
One scenario where this happens is you've got enough fuel configured when cranking and for after start enrichment but when that ends, you are suddenly way too lean. This means your fuel ve table is too lean overall. I'd start by selecting all the idle cells and multiplying them by 1.1 or 1.2 to give them 10 to 20% more fuel. You may have to actually reduce your ASE amount when you do this so it's not super rich to begin with. Keep it running however you can until warmup is complete and then get your afr set to a good number like 14.0 and stable. Then you can go back and fix after start enrichment and warm up enrichment values.
@@OGPedXing I increased the idle cells by 10%. Instead of running for 2 seconds, it ran for about 5 seconds. An improvement. When I increased the idle cells by another 10%, it did the same thing except it seemed to struggle a little to start and it ran a little rougher. When I lowered the ASE, that did not seem to help. The plugs are still dry.
I’m thinking that if the VE table is not in the ball park, adding or subtracting fuel may not help. I set up my VE table using the table generator: supercharger, idle 70 kpa, peak power 170 kpa, 431 cid. Does that seem reasonable?
Thanks for your help
Jim
Is there a way to find the limits of the IAC before you start the engine by using the Output Test Mode? I had the car at my tuner and he actually changes the manual stops on the butterfly on the throttle body. I'm now trying to correct this. Thanks in advance. Love your content.
One thing you can do is if you take the iac off of the throttle body then you can look inside and see a small rod and diaphragm. If you leave it plugged in you can activate it via the test modes and see the diaphragm move. When it stops moving one way or the other, that's the full open and closed duty cycle.
Question, when I activated the IDLE VE my car immediately stalled. Do you copy the settings from the actual VE Table first and then play with them from there?
Yes. The idle ve will override the regular table immediately and if the values aren't good it will run poorly.
Are all these parameters adjusted to your car or are they default values on MS
First off, Tuner studio will display parameters that go with the firmware loaded on your megasquirt. There are some defaults that go with that. But the main thing is in general you can find a base map aka a tune file that is customized with values for your vehicle and engine. For the Miata you can get them from trubokitty.net. for lots of other cars you can get them from diyautotune.com and also msextra.com forums. Once you have that as a start you can use the info in the vids to dial in what you need to get it running smoothly.
If my car isn't idling at all, can I walk through the IAC test mode?
You can typically find some defaults to put in, for example for an NA Miata, you can put in 30 percent (closed) and 70 % (fully open) duty cycles and it will be close. What car model and year do you have? Also try increasing fuel to get idle more steady, most engines like rich better than lean to idle. Also you may want to use fixed timing to take out another variable.
@@OGPedXing my issue was actually too much fuel. I thought the stock injectors were 210 instead of 265, it idles now and I was able to check my timing. Need to install my wideband and I should be on the ground running!
@@HardwayLearning awesome, congrats!
im trying to verify my idle valve closed duty and open duty but my idle value test mode changes nothing in my idle from 0 to 100 it stays the same rpm
Hey I have a 94 Miata with MS3pro PNP and for some reason my A/C fans are not turning on. in the ac tab the input polarity is on inverted, would setting this to Normal get the condenser fan to turn on?
It depends on how the Ms is wired but mine is on normal polarity. Also verify the input and output pins are correct.
@@OGPedXing Thanks input and output are definitely correct. I sent a copy of my current tune to DIY they wanted to look at it. My tuner was having a time with sorting out my EBC I have the older version from DIY could you take a look at the settings for that for me if I sent you the tune?
@@Rumnhammer sure, pm me on Instagram or send to my email listed on the about the channel tab on TH-cam. (Not putting it in the comments because of the spammers)😄
How come MS never extends graphing functions (like warm-up and priming, etc) past the moderately cold temperatures? For priming pulse, for example, my base map shows the graph data going down to 10 degrees fahrenheit. But what happens when I start my car at 9 degrees F? Should we all be extending these graphing numbers out to the edges of the graphs?
The MS will use the value of the lowest cell for any lower temps and the highest cell for any temps higher than the graph. So you only need to extend it if you need a different value for say 10f vs like -30f. So you can pick a range based on your normal weather or else tweak it for winter vs summer if needed.
Hey man, I’ve been using TS with mega squirt for a little bit now and for some reason when I do a hot restart on the car after about 30 min it will go extremely lean like 16 afr at idle and the car start hiccuping, once I start driving it goes away, how can I fix this ?
If the tune was working previously then it may be a mechanical issue. Hot start problems are super common. Most can be caused by a vacuum leak so check the hoses but also you may want to check your fuel pressure, may be a sign of your fuel pump going out. It can also be related to a sticky idle valve letting in too much air when warm but unsticks once it actuates a bit after driving.
OGPedXing it’s been doing it since I got it on ms, the car worked perfectly before stock, the IAT seems as if it’s not getting heatsoaked either
@@johnberumen1666 just to double check the iat, you can set the mat air density table to flat at 100%. Many tunes have this way too aggressive, partly because of the code itself. It pulls way too much fuel. Even slight heat soak of the sensor or the intake air when first started will cause it to lean out badly.
For the Cranking RPM, is there any drawback to using a higher number? The way my NB2 Miata was tuned, the tuner set Cranking RPM to 700. I'm going back over my tune and nitpicking some little things here and there to improve the kind of stuff that would be unreasonable for a dude with a dyno to get perfect in a couple hours.
The main thing is you don't want it to think it's cranking when it's actually running/idling already. Since 850 is the typical idle and it can drop a bit under load or when not tuned, 700 is usually considered high. Typically 350 is used but up to 500 is fine. You want 100-200 above the typical crank so it will start tapering to normal run quickly.
Hi Patrick
are these the settings your using in your miata?, your video here has finally showed how to get mine to start without pushing the throttle. If these are on your miata i would like to duplicate to get mine running better.
Yes pretty much. I have a tune I use for these videos just to make sure viewers can follow along without any tweaks being made off camera. For misc testing I do have another tune which is what I run day to day but in some ways that test tune may be worse that this one in the videos. At the moment the main difference I have is I'm using PID control rather than basic/simple but they are otherwise the same.
Thanks for the good explanations. If my idle is already weird, should I install MS and use it for diagnostics? My car currently idles anywhere between 850 to 1700. After I get off the throttle, it first starts to idle at 1700 then slowly drops to 1500. Once at 1500, it will stay in that range for a completely random amount of time before either slowly dropping to the low 1000s or dropping to 850. Additionally, no matter what my idle speed is, the rpm seems to seek a pretty significant amount that I can hear and see in the tach.
Thus far, I haven't been able to diagnose much other than it's probably the iacv or iacv gasket, and the only reason I know that is from unplugging the iacv solenoid and the car will immediately drop down to normal, but the idle will still seek. Also, I introduced a slight vacuum leak (by unplugging my map line which is currently on the back of the manifold) and it seemed to make little to no difference. Note: this is on a 1.8 and all my testing was done after the car was warm. Also, my iacv solenoid measures well within the factory impedance spec.
Thanks a bunch for any help you can provide
Here are some videos showcasing the issue:
th-cam.com/video/1wHdd4kARRc/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/vZdJJiX_Mzs/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/ReWvR1LR4hk/w-d-xo.html
The MS can give you a lot of info from logs but it can also add variables that complicate things. I'd start with fixing it with the stock ECU. Typically high idle means too much air...either a vacuum leak or IAC. Did this just start happening or did you get the car recently and it's always done this? The reason I ask is the idle screw may have been opened to much by a previous owner to compensate for something else. So the IAC may actually be ok. Unplugging it should close it which it seems to do since the RPM drops down again. If it were stuck unplugging it wouldn't do any thing. I'd guess there may be more vacuum leaks and you could also try cleaning the maf sensor and throttle body. Just the no touch spray cleaner. This can help with a surging/hunting idle as well.
Another thought:. Does idle rpm change if you have the clutch pressed and put it in gear vs neutral? If so the clutch pedal switch may be bad.
@@OGPedXing I'll be sure to test for that tomorrow, but not that I've noticed. It's idle very slightly changes when I first let the clutch off after startup, though I think that's just from being under slight load. I'll also be testing the idle screw adjustment and try to clean the maf a little with some contact cleaner. Thanks a bunch for the continued help!
When I adjust my idle valve in the test mode the rpm’s go down as I increase the number and go up as I decrease the number. Any idea on why this would be happening?
The most common reason is the megasquirt is wired for inverse polarity. On that same screen there's a checkbox to enable that and it will basically reverse things. The second possibility is once you go over the top duty cycle it will begin closing again. For example on mine if I go to about 70% then it's fully open but higher than that and it closes again.
@@OGPedXing thank you so much I’ve been chasing my tail trying to figure that out ur the best
When testing my IAC, Im able to keep the duty going all the way up to 4k + RPM, do i need to adjust the mechanical screw with the IAC OFF?
That can be ok...if it idled ok before the megasquirt you probably don't need to mess with the air screw. At about 70 duty cycle it should be fully open and not go higher. With it fully warmed you can test at the higher end. If it didn't idle well before on the stock ECU or you bought the car with the megasquirt, then you can adjust the idle screw. There may also be another small vacuum leak that's allowing in extra air.
@@OGPedXing bought the car completely stock, idle was fine. I tested it with it fully warmed up the rpm's were still climbing past 70% duty and 3500, 4k rpm. As well as it still lowering past 25% duty. Ill look for a unseen or heard vacuum leak. i have a slight idle hunt 800 to bot 1100 every 5 seconds or so after sitting at a light for more than 10 15 seconds. Im about to review some logs and try and see whats going on but im not to proficient in TS but by no means a complete noob. Thx for the reply.
Great video. But I still need help. Replaced IAC and now it idles high. Have tried turn on and off. Drive at a steady speed
Extended IAC plunger idle great until restarting back to high idle. Any help appreciated.
You can take the iac out of the equation by just unplugging it. If it's still idling high then I'd look for a vacuum leak... potentially anywhere in the system. You may want to reset the idle screw as well. I've seen it where a previous owner compensated for a failing valve by opening up the screw all the way and letting in too much air.
No vacuum leaks. If seat the IAC closed manually then reinstall it idles perfectly.
The IAC is not closing all of the way. Not sure which section of tuner I need to go to closed the IAC. I am technically handicap.
Is this a new valve or a used one? Also what's the year of the car and what settings are you using for idle control (closed loop or open) and what duty cycle range and frequency do you have set up?
Got my car idling and that is all good. When I blip the throttle it revs up but dies on the idle down. Where should I look to correct that? Thanks in advance
Couple of things to try. You can increase the dashpot which will add duty cycle to the iacv for that amount of time, try 1.2 or 1.5 seconds. Otherwise you can bump up the idle air initial values for the RPM and load it typically enters idle at.
Thanks... while the car is running from initial start up is all good... if I restart the car it starts hunting. I will tray the dashpot tomorrow. Hate to be a bother but I’m making lots of headway very fast.
Thank you! I have a question. I have MS ultra but I don't see the Idle VE settings like yours does. Are there different lvls of MS ultra as well? or did they take out that feature and/or put it somewhere else? Thanks again for all your knowledge
I have version 3.0.28 of tuner studio ultra, I haven't updated in a while. Make sure it says "Registered To" and then your name at the top of the window otherwise it won't be activated. Go to Help -> Update Registration to set it up. Then the idle ve should be under Startup/Idle menu, last item, Idle Ve Settings.
@@OGPedXing I got it all registered and shows just like you said. I saw down below that someone had the same thing happen to them since they are running ms2 pnp vs your ms3.
@@shinobi1203 ah yes, some features may not be available or may look different on the ms2. Actually it's not a problem, I tried it without idle ve and I have plenty of range with just the normal ve table. You may want to change the rpm range on the ve table around there so you can have 800, 1000, and 1200 and then have large jumps.
@@OGPedXing So I used a lot of the base map you showed and it was a great starting point. I got a nonseeking idle, but i for some reason, can't get my idle any lower than 1000-1100rpm.
Would you mind looking at my tune if I take some pictures of it? or just send you my tune directly?
@@shinobi1203 If the idle won't go down to 850 and the idle air valve is closed all the way then the physical idle adjustment screw may be too far out or there might be a vacuum leak. However if it idled fine with the stock ECU then it's probably still the tune. My email is on the channel About page and you can send the tune file. You have to be on the desktop browser version of TH-cam to see it though, the email button doesn't show up in the mobile app or the mobile site for some reason. Or DM me on Instagram. 👍
Hey, so whenever I start the car it hunts extremely bad and won't stay running. But once the idle adv and idle ve kicks in it idles beautiful. Im pulling my hair out trying to change things but I keep going in circles
Likely a fuel issue but there are two possibilities. First is just up the after start enrichment and warm up enrichment. Bump those up and see if it will settle down. Second may be the fuel table itself...once it's warmed up tweak the fuel first without idle advance and ego turned on. It should be relatively stable without those if the fuel ve numbers are dialed in. Next, from a timing perspective, I like to idle at about 15-18 in the table prior to whatever idle advance adds later. A tip is to increase the idle cells to 18 or so below your target idle. So when the car is about to stall, the advance in the table will pop it back up.
@@OGPedXing appreciate it. I will try that. Its a turbo LS, but I really can't find much info because everyone is all running holley now
Ah gotcha. For an LS the same advice will work but for the timing numbers use for the lower end, like the 600 rpm row, an advance of your normal idle plus 3 to 5.
The colder the air the less fuel you use the hotter it is the more you use. Just for those who dont know.
you said to start at 0% on the pwn idle duty, but if I go below like 26% on my nb2 it stalls. How do you find the true closed spot without stalling?
You can also start kind of in the middle and work your way down. Like start at 40 and go down until rpms stop dropping which should be around 25 to 30. If it's stalling before that then your idle screw may be all the way closed. Same for full open...start at 50 or so and continue up until the rpm stops rising. Usually about 70.
@@OGPedXing For some reason I didn't think NB2 had an idle screw. I'll check it out. I start at 30ish and it usually stalls below 26 as I slowly go down.
@@Vdeez ah nb2, yes I think that's all ECU controlled. In that case I'd put the lowest number at whatever puts it at about 750-800 rpm.
OGPedXing thanks!
So how will I go forward when we installed a new throttle body where the adjustment screw was remowed entirely when I gained it?
Is it a stock throttle body or aftermarket of some kind? If stock, I'd try to get a replacement screw installed otherwise you will have a vacuum leak. If there's no port for a screw you can make it work but your idle valve duty cycle will probably be a lot higher.
@@OGPedXing It is a throttle body from a very old car which was made to fit with this custom plenum I also got with the same deal. The screw and the place is there but the throttle plate is fully closed currently.
Depending on the throttle body, the screw will open up an internal passage allowing some air past the plate. The other option is to adjust the throttle cable tension so it holds the plate open just a tiny amount.
@@OGPedXing maybe I wasn't quite clear with the question but anyway I apreciate alot that you are answering. I meant to ask that how I should adjust the screw before I start to mess around with the ICV? I believe if I have the screw and ICV completely off and try to adjust it with a closed loop, I'm in a big mess?
Oh ok, yeah try to get the car to idle at a normal rpm with the icv unplugged. Open the screw all the way, start the car...rpms will probably be high. Slowly adjust the screw until it comes down but doesn't stall. This may take a couple of rounds if your fuel table isn't tuned yet. But then you can plug the icv back in and start tuning closed loop.
Hi FRIEND. Anyone who knows the ANSWER can help. i happen to have a Volvo 940.1994 regina model B230 engine. I measure only the crank sensor while it is installed and cranking.I read between 100-120mv. But i can find any ready in my trigger logger of rpm nothing.the firmware sas MS2 3.4.1 trigger pattern is 44-2-2 preset in microsquirt, do you have any ideas what to do? i have no spark either. the sensor has 3 wire. red/blue/bleack seems to be the shield. red and blue reads 196.6 ohm .three weeks trying to find the answer. there are many gues. Pls help. regards
The lack of spark may be just it can't get sync with the crank signal so it doesn't know when to fire. I'm not familiar with that engine but in addition to the trigger wheel setting in tuner studio, research what signal settings it needs such as rising edge vs falling edge, etc. This is on the same ignition settings screen as the wheel setup. You also want to make sure the crank angle is close for your engine and that the physical jumpers on the Ms are set for the right sensor type, optical, magnetic, etc. Check out this for more info..www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/volvo/megasquirt-your-240-740-940/
subscribed.
I have a mazda mx3 with a klze and I'm running it on a mspnp2 9395 model I tried to follow the same things you were doing in your set up videos but when my car is cold it runs lean. I tried to add fuel in the cold start settings but it won't stay running what can I do?
How long does it run before dying with the new settings? If it seems to start ok and stay good for a few seconds then start to die, you may need to up the Warm Up Enrichment even more. This is because the ASE is giving it the fuel it needs but this stops after 5-10 seconds. Second you can check the Idle settings -- you may want to make the target rpm a bit higher in that temp range, and also check the idle air valve duty cycle %. This last one can be non-intuitive because sometimes you actually want less air intake. In cold temps, the air is denser and you need more fuel to compensate.
@@OGPedXing it bracks up well running for about 2 seconds
@@johnhill484if you give it some accellerator pedal, can you keep it running? If that works, try adding duty cycle to the idle air valve.
@@OGPedXing ok ill try but I'll start up when it seems like it's running normal it's running at 18 20 AFR's
Until it warms up
Does the engine need to be running while getting the idle duty % when running the test? I only ask because my engine is running super rich
Yes, you'll need to use the RPM to determine exactly when the idle valve is fully open and fully closed. Although usually you can put in a ballpark value and be close. An na Miata for example is usually 30 to 70. Then it will be plus or minus 5 for each value. A quick way is start at 40 and go lower slowly until the RPM stops dropping. Then go to 60 and go up until it stops rising.
OGPedXing it’s just the engine is back firing a lot and I don’t want anything to go wrong internally while I’m adjusting this
@@usagimoto1423 ok yeah, that's a different story. In that case I'd put it on open loop idle and change the fuel table until you can get it to run closer to normal. After start enrichment and warm up enrichment will magnify a fuel table that's really off also.
Thanks will do
I went back there trying to make some changes and didn’t see a difference.
I have an e30 with the ms2 pnp ita inverted the pwm when I do the test to calibrate it it never moves
What frequency do you have it set at? You can try around 100 to start...lowet frequency will give smaller steps, higher will give larger steps. You can actually verify that it's doing something by running the test screen with engine off...you can hear the hum usually. If needed, you can even take it off the throttle body and visually verify movement. It may also be an electrical or mechanical problem with the valve rather than the MS.
I have e problem mi car run good wen is cold but as soon it hit 180° it go's lenn
Likely the fuel ve table is a little lean but your warmup enrichment is a little rich which is compensating for it. Let it warm up and fix the fuel table (add a little fuel) then you can go back to warmup enrichment and after start enrichment and lower those a bit.
@@OGPedXing I'm going to try that thank you very much... I was wondering can we connect via team Viewer And maybe you can help me out better If you have time ?
@@OGPedXing I need help
I can use mpps v13 chip tuning tool to connect tuner studio to the car
No unfortunately tuner studio only works with aftermarket ECUs like megasquirt, Speeduino, rusefi, etc. Obd2 tuners work with a stock ECU on certain car models/years.
@@OGPedXing I want tune my Isuzu Trooper 2002 v6 stock ECU what OBD2 TOOL do you prefer I should use
i wish i could apply these videos with speedyefi. its literally the software yet literally everything is in differnt places then it should be.
Yeah unfortunately the speeduino is pretty basic compared to the megasquirt. The main fuel ve and spark stuff is similar but that's about it. I have some unpublished stuff on taking a speeduino pnp for an na1 miata and making it work for an na2 (94-97). I couldn't believe how bad the base tune was... I had to throw it out and start over. The PID control on speeduino is not good either. I didn't want to start making videos on it if I didn't have a good solution by the end. My car finally ran fine, it was still pretty rough compared to the stock like smoothness of the ms. So I haven't gotten around to putting anything out on the speeduino platform.
@@OGPedXing haha had I realized I was practically shooting myself in the foot I wouldn't have done it, but oh well guess I'll figure it out. I guess this is why research is important 😂
Also thanks for responding to a comment on a 4 year old video, had no clue you were even still around
Yeah, I mean it will definitely run your car. But it will be more trial and error. One thing that made a big difference was to check the injection angle table. It was set up to squirt when the valves were still closed, meaning it would pool on top. Not good. Things got easier once I fixed that. You can compare a similar table on a megasquirt tune to get the right values.
@@rainzeros8393 check out this forum thread for some more tips. forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=10276371&postcount=122
@@OGPedXing much appreciated for all the info, definitely will look into it!
are these good settings for a 96 1.8 ?miata
Yes most everything will be good since my car is a 94 1.8. The main places where cars vary individually is in the idle valve duty cycle and generally dialing in the after start and warm up enrichments.
@@OGPedXing thank you
I HAVE A MAZDA MX-6 AND I DONT SEE ANY OR YOUR VIDEOS FOR THIS CAR ....
The tuning videos will apply to any car that you can use the Megasquirt. Especially for a 4 cylinder mazda, it will likely be similar. Check out diyautotune.com to see if they have a base tune for your car.
@@OGPedXing MINE IS 6 CYL MY FRIEND AND THANKS... I NEED TO KNOW HOW TO TUNE BECAUSE HERE IS VERY EXPENSIVE ANY HELP ON THAT ...I AM IN PANAMA CANAL
What year miata are you tuning and is it turboed or boosted
It's a 94 that I originally tuned naturally aspirated, but then added a turbo. The tuning series (check out the playlist) goes through the whole process and is pretty directly compatible with any year Miata but also mostly good for tuning any megasquirt ECU car.
@@OGPedXing works the same with speedyefi system i would assume. Thats what I have. I just installed it Friday. Been trying to learn and absorb as much information as possible before I go messing with it much.
@@OGPedXing also I have a 2000 nb1 1.8L natural aspiration currently.
Yes, speedyefi or any of the speeduino based ECUs should work the same, they are all tuner studio. Some screens may look slightly different than the videos because tuner studio changes the look and feel based on the ECU type but it is close to the same.
will this be fine for a non turbo set up ?
Yes! This was shot before I had my turbo installed. I actually recommend to learn tuning on a naturally aspirated car so that later at higher power levels you know how to do it and be safe for the engine.
I’m on a base map now from MS noticed a lot of your setting are different and there are some I don’t have was wondering if you might have that map before you set up turbo cause I don’t have the dyno tuner and tuning the idle is getting a little scary lol
I’m on a base map now from MS noticed a lot of your setting are different and there are some I don’t have was wondering if you might have that map before you set up turbo cause I don’t have the dyno tuner and tuning the idle is getting a little scary lol
I’m on a base map now from MS noticed a lot of your setting are different but I guess that expected since I have a 97 just running is tricky for me this is all new and I’m in the woods lol
I’m on a base map now from MS noticed a lot of your setting are different but I guess that expected since I have a 97 just running is tricky for me this is all new and I’m in the woods lol
Can you create me a base map if I send you car details mx5 1.8 2004 turbo
Deleted ICV and changed little mechanical screw on e30. whoops