How to ventilate cladding
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ย. 2023
- How to ventilate for cladding on a building with batten or batten and counter batten, in this video learn how I like to ventilate cladding if its timber or other material
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Who else likes Robins videos before they even start, I always know it's going to be solid info!
Thanks mate!!!
After a tough day at work, there's nothing better than coming home, sitting down with a nice glass of port with a bit of cheese and watching Robin screw someone battens in a wall. I think I need help.
Great video Robin. Any thoughts on plastic vents becoming brittle & breakable with age ? Personally have always used SS wire mesh for ventilation top & bottom.
Follow up with the cladding and corner details would be great ! 🙂
Hi Robin. I did a similar vent system to my garage / workshop in the west of Ireland some years ago - the only difference was i used a stainless steel vent strip ( as the rats were very determined to gain access because when we were not there for the winter it was there home as i found out on our return ) i fixed the stainless steel vent strip to the concrete block wall & not to the insulation board as you have done as the rats would eat there way through the foam in minutes - i cross battened the insulation board with 25mm ( 1’ Full treated batten ) I also left a 5mm gap at the top soffit board - all the outside cladding was steel box section & all of the smallest rat access points were sealed. We have no rats in the workshop now. Ed.
"Only I'll know about that" (12.58). Exactly why I watch this channel.
Great to see robin! Can’t wait to see more up dates from this project & tips & tricks
Awesome. Would have been nice to have shown the top vent detail to see how the air flows through the facia boards
Lovely work! This is the first time I’ve seen a carpenter explain and build with this technique outside of Denmark, where I’m from. We call it “constructive wood protection” and I couldn’t have described any better than you did. The effect is remarkable over the years. Always a joy seeing you work 💪🏼
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks Robin another great video very helpful for my big build in the new year 👍
Perfect timing as I will be installing timber cladding in a couple of weeks on a structure I am currently building
More sage wisdom from my favourite channel.
Just what am going to do with my build, bloody lovely Robin !
Meticulous even though it’s unseen, a true craftsman 👌🏻👌🏻.
Thanks for sharing, it's really interesting to see how and why things are done in a certain way.
Great work Robin. Have been enjoying your Fix radio slot. Liked the winter working one last week. Thanks very much.
Thats great David, if you ever want to come on my radio show if there is anything you would like to discuss or feel our audience would like feel free to reach out to me or my Producers at Fix
Another great video, thanks Robin
brilliant video, thanks so much. great tips and explanation. first class
Just what i needed, thx for your great expertise ,nice style and your time investing in sharing,respect, Bob Belgium Coast,⚓
Really nice job covering all the important aspects and even includes a note on batten sizing!
The Spax screws are a great pointer and well worth the extra cost for perimeter fixing. If you are looking for savings, using the pcv vent guards is a great way to save some money although aluminium is really not expensive either (much harder to cut and work with) .
The batton on edge at the window opening is a nice touch, i will use that in future thanks!
Would that be pilot drilled and fixed using a 3 inch screw as the 2 inch side is facing outwards? I have a similar project and would like to use this method
Top Job as always!!
great info as usual, watching from Dingle, Ireland
Awesome, thank you!
Looking forward to seeing the cladding going on, especially the corners. I’ve got something very similar to do next year
Coming soon!
@@ukconstruction can I assume that if you were cladding horizontally you would batten the other way around ie horizontal first then vertical?
@@dougwardle2175 no you will only use a single layer of battens but maybe a thicker one. Check with the cladding manufacturer or if you really can't ask anyone 38mm is the starting point.
Double battening, the same as Liam recommends on his garden rooms 👍
Your vids are so brilliantly detailed Robin. The outside membrane, is that what I should use if timber cladding over a brick wall?
Nice work Robin. Is that a specific product for the ventilation? As it looks similar to render stop beads.
great video. always wondered how this works
Glad it helped
Hi robin,firstly thanks for sharing your wisdom and taking your time to upload all your content. I enjoy watching the proper tradies going about their craft and showing how things are done correctly.
I built a garden room last year and over cladded the front in western red cedar,I used insect mesh to the lower part with counter battening and was wondering if I should of used some sort of ventilation at the top also ? I’ve got a 500mm overhang which I’ve battened and cladded, and often wondered if I should of added some sort of vent in the top part (not too big of a job to add at a later stage if needed)
I’d appreciate it you could share your thoughts pal. Keep up the great work 👍.
@@J5X7 yeah I was thinking about something along those lines,just wasn’t sure if it was absolutely necessary. Like I said before it’s not too big of a job to do later (when the weather’s a bit kinder) .
Thanks for your reply mate 👍.
Great video thanks, hoping you will show the cladding going on and how the corners are fixed please.
Needs to be stainless steel vent mesh robin mice will eat through your plastic strip have seen it happen before
Excellent 👍. Here in the States we call that system a rain screen.
I have heard that, we have a rain screen system here that is slightly different to this method
@@ukconstruction I don't want 2 b misunderstood, but more & more builders in the USA r working diligently to build smarter, by watching what UK & the rest of Europe have been doing as well as many other countries around the world.
But Robin...I love your work !
Thank you Michael!!!!
I wonder, besides years of extensive experience, how long it takes to plan the details. Many of them look as if right at the built site or are they also designed beforehand i.e. the screw length and type, 2,5 cm lateral gap to be closed at corners horizontally with 5 cm timber? I enjoy every second of your altruistic sharing of your craftsmanship.
👍
Nice vid 👍 Can you show detail of venting above a window or door that is in view to the eye please. I know it depends on the different systems that might be used, in my instance I’m about to use the new Millboard Envello Cladding, just researching the best approach, thanks
very good, would love to see how you batten and clad the corners and around the door & window reveals.
I will do a follow up video for you
HI Robin,
My timber clad extension has been vented in this way (although I used a stainless steel mesh on a roll)
My building control wants me to vent above and below windows also😢
I’m thinking I might just drill some holes through the cladding and place a vent over- what do you think?
One other thing- I put a weathered edge on the horizontals for moisture run off- I have a very pedantic building inspector.
Attention to Detail 👍
"Pressure Equalized Rain Screen" if you vent top and bottom - the theory is that because the space is pressure equalized no moisture will be drawn through the exterior finish. Leaks require negative pressure.
Hi Robin, Great video! Can I ask where you got that ventilation strip with holes in it?
Hi Robin. Great video and similar to something I am planning currently. Can I get the bottom vent strips through your ‘cladding enquiries’ or are they from elsewhere? Thanks and there a coffee on the way! Cheers….
Watching these videos with the intention of starting a similar project, really appreciate all the hard work that goes into making and editing the content.
If anyone can answer, what would be the best fixing to use to attached the battens to concrete block, the screws mentioned seems to be for batten to batten to osb
Cheers
Check my how to batten a wall video
What will you do over the openings? Will you be able to see the white plastic?
Hi Robin, I have to say that the holes at the bottom look as though most bugs would be able to get through them, ants for instance would have no problem getting through those holes.
I was thinking the same🤔
Ants and spiders etc will always get in no matter what you do. The aim is to stop small rodents and birds from nesting in the void space and causing long term damage.
I want to clad a small outbuilding in our garden as it's ugly concrete. However, the fascia is right up against the wall, probably a couple of inches out. Would cladding outside of this be at all passable? So it sits forward, with this air gap behind. Can't put much money into unfortunately, otherwise I'd tear it down and start again 😂.
I'm watching this after I've finished installing siding with no battens at all on my studio. Just horizontal planks flush against the wall wrap. Now I'm regretting everything.
Hi Robin, would you also recommend fitting hardie plank the same way or is this just critical for timber cladding? Thanks for all the great clips! Keep them coming THANK YOU
Hi Gary, have you seen my Hardie videos??
Morning Robin, I have not no I must of missed that one. I have recently started work for a garden buildings company and have tried to explain the importance off bug screen top and bottom and the 10mm air flow gap at the top but have just been told it’s not needed and do it there way. So some clarification for my own peace of mind and the correct information for potentially going forward on my own would be massively appreciated. Many thanks for your reply 👍
How much of a gap did you leave at the top under the soffit for ventilation
Hi Robin dont forget our christmas special, HO HO HO
Great Channel Robin. Does details about ventilation on the top of the cladding show in any future videos.? 🙏 thx from Denmark
Yes, soon
Great job as always , plastic does not stop rodents tho , should try and use as metal
True. I've had them gnaw straight through plastic fascia etc.
Interesting product. Curious about the top. Didn’t look like enough overhang to prevent rain from hitting the top perforated piece. How much clearance do you need to provide at the top to allow adequate airflow?
We currently have an excess of overhang and once our cladding is finished we will cut back the roof parapet and weld on our cover trim to our single ply membrane
Anyone know where is best for the ventilation strip
Hi Robin
Great video, could you please let me know where you bought the white ventilation strips Please
Google white ventilation strips
Hi, can you let me know where to get the plastic vent strip from please. Thank you
Hello, just watching all your cladding videos as my brother and I are about to instal some ourselves.
I was wondering what the centres are on the battening for double battenings. We’re putting the cladding on vertically.
Cheers, Adam.
Hi Adam, try to stick to about 500mm max its nice to have a decent amount of fixing points for the cladding, also treated batten is super cheap to by so it makes sense, enjoy doing your cladding, and thank you for watching my channel!!
What’s your building control inspectors view on cavity barriers to the ventilated void? (See paragraph 5.18, section B3, Part B of the regs) On a recent cladding job the inspector insisted on barriers top and bottom of the cladding (intumescent type in order to maintain the air path) and around all openings. Around the openings is a little easier as a 38 x 38mm timber is deemed suitable for a cavity barrier in Part B, so simply replacing your batten on edge to the window openings for a 50 x 50 will suffice.
Yes thats an interesting area around the cavity barriers, we always have them in a typical timberframe with brickwork face but tend to use batten on edge and then solid clad the reveal with the cladding giving the equivalent of 50mm thick, I will take a deep dive into the regs and look at the current guidance, thanks for your comments
Excellent point raised , definitely worth a video .
@@ukconstruction Thanks for your response, using the combined thickness of the vertical batten and the cladding is interesting and something I will definitely be discussing with our inspector next time. If you ever need an intumescent barrier the envirograph product 55, CV cavity strip is useful or Siderise do a very extensive range and great technical team.
I have always thought an intumescent strip incorporated with an aluminium/stainless steel ventilation guard like the plastic version in your video would be ideal for these scenarios.
Classic Stamford pay attention
i only used hardie plank on old victorian buildings, I would love to do it on a nice square new build, it looks so much easier. I clad my rental properties as it dries the 9 inch walls out, and a dry wall is a better insulator then i been insulating them internally with superfoil as i dont really trust the external insulation. my only problem has been one tennant pulling the fuse out of the heat recovery ventilator system to save money on electricity causing black mould to form on the walls.
Thing is with those vents Robin, if your doing vertical board on board cladding there's still going to be a gap behind the 2nd coarse of boards where insects can access.
I imagine it will be t&g rather than featherboarded.
We were just talking about this on new build houses at work today, is that material on the outside a vapour barrier or is it a breathable membrane? Looking forward to the next installment 👍
I wondered that too. Maybe it's the foil back of the PIR.
It’s Tyvek equivalent of Housewrap. Water tight but breathable
Hi Guys, this membrane is an insulating breather membrane and it has really good service class and can really protect the timber frame structure during the construction phase even if there is a significant lag in time before the final envelope is completed, it is fixed directly to the OSB sheathing
great video,can you show us the cladding video ?
I will do one
Very tidy job but I'm not sure that plastic is up to the job of stopping insects or rodents.
The fine stainless steel mesh is generally what I see spec'd, fiddly to use but it is bullet proof
It is a fair thickness and very similar to many roofline products commonly used externally in nearly all builds now, if there is no food source generally the rodents will stay away
looks like a nice building. what roof set up is it. warm roof or cold
This is a warm roof
Figured as much when I watched the other vids. Thanks for the reply.
How do you ventilate over window and door headers?
with the counter batten we carry the top vent along the roof as normal and in the case here we will have more than enough air flow from the adjacent walls either side of the large opening that will pass over the counter batten and out at the top, if it was on show we would use a powder coated aluminium perforated section set in a shadow gap to match the cladding or windows as close as possible
No fire barriers in the ventilated cavity?
They will be formed by solid battening at the reveals etc
Mentioned ventilation at the top but this detail was missed would be good to see what you use there as the rest was genius
I will show the detail that I mentioned in a future video
Question. Can you show the top insect mesh detail please. I struggle with understanding how the cladding hides it without running up to the soffit
It will be hidden by the roof membrane trim that will hang down over the gap at the top of the cladding
@@ukconstruction thank you. Hopefully you can show in the next video. Always struggle to see this type of detail on many YT videos. Really enjoy watching yours btw.
I'm a little confused as to why you would have horizontal battens if , as you said, you're installing horizontal cladding. I guess i'll wait for the next video to see if the cladding is vertical. Your videos are very informative but little mistakes can lead to confusion for some viewers.
Will you fit a semi-permeable membrane (eg Tyvek)?
The membrane is the TF200 Thermo that is already on the structure, no additional membrane needed
@@ukconstruction Cool, thank you for replying.
Ok what about air and moisture in the cavity itself? Surely the batten will break down eventually?
with the ventilation and passing of air there will be no build up of moisture
What diameter holes are in that ventilation plastic please? I'd worry that wasps would get through it easily.
they are about 3mm, the are smaller than the gaps in a typical plastic vented soffit board
What is the wall construction under the membrane please?? and is there a series for this project?
The wall construction is my standard timber frame, TF200 Therma membrane 9mm OSB sheathing, 130mm CLS studs, 120mm PIR, Vapour barrier, 25mm internal service batten, 38mm thermal board, 3mm plaster skim
@@ukconstructionMany thanks. Most useful 👍 😊
Do you have any videos of cladding on a shipping container home?
And thank you for the info!
Does it matter that half the holes in the fly screen are covered by the horizontal batten?
Not if a 25mm of continuous ventilation is sufficient for the cladding you are using, In most cases I believe it is and this is the only way I have seen it done on site. I would recommend looking at the cladding manufacturers specifications :-)
May be worth planing or routing a wide chamfer on the lower interior corner to allow more air uptake.
Whats the name of that perforated plastic trim?
I will get the details and put in the description
Thanks@@ukconstructionhave been on the look out for a while for this exact product. had enough of the faff of the stuff on a roll.
I'm assuming you mean vertical cladding. Is it going to be cedar?
Yes vertical, its thermowood, I'm not a fan of cedar
I take it you meant to say you're doing vertical cladding not horizontal
Yeh I was scratching my head there for a minute as well
I mention this early in the video and talk briefly about how to batten for either vertical or horizontal
I do sometimes muddle my words though!!! I had better watch it back!!
@@ukconstruction no it’s no problem praps I wasn’t paying attention at the beginning of the vid and it’s just that I’m so use to fitting and seeing horizontal boarding fitted to vertical battens great vid though explaining why good air flow is so important in preventing moisture and subsequently damp conditions within void areas
I have far more of a problem with your dreadful use of English. Did you mean props and not praps?
He did say he was doing horizontal. 👍
I would notice asymmetric screw and nailing patterns. 'Clock' screws on: hinges, door furniture, electrical face plates in fact any 2nd fix with a screw visible. If you know, you know🤓. Anything else just screams quantity over quality.
I'm having a hard time understanding how both the counterbattens and cladding can be horizontal (0:47). Did you mean to say the cladding would be vertical?
Yes its vertical a muddle of words!! apologies!!
I know it isnt, but that drill always sounds like it's rounding off the screw 😂
That looks like it would go up in flames like a Tinder box
This is standard timber frame construction that is used widely in the UK
Those ventilation holes seem massive to me. Insects can easily get through there.
Did you even watch the video?
Why on earth do people insist on using these impacters for such small screws? Why would you want to listen to that all day when its absolutely not necessary?
How many times did you have to change that Milwaukee 6 volt battery 😂
Hardly ever!!! it lasts and lasts!!
You're brilliant 👏. ...these houses are NOT HOMES....they are over priced sheds.... dreadful too say the least ... therefore it should be only worth 20% of a real brick and mortar house....who agrees ?????? Think all the volume builders will go this cheep creaking monstrosity way !!
You need to travel more... try Scandinavia, Poland, Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Canada/US to name but a few.
I do travel....but over there they use proper timber....we have rubbish and trust me they creak...we use shitty i beams...when you have people walking up stairs...you can here the floor moan...my house has thick stuff called joists....1950s house.... built to last. Have a look mate....you don't need to travel...just walk around any new builds... take it you're a pen pusher !
@@michaelherbert2982 I'm pretty sure both your comments would make perfect sense.. underneath some other You Tuber's video! Lets start at the bottom: Going from memory and a few notes I jotted down during previous videos the extension which you saw Robin cladding here has a 1 meter foundation, a 3 brick plinth, a double sole plate (two overlapping 6"x2" or 140x40mm), 6"x2" /140x40mm studs on 16" /400mm centres, a double top plate (two overlapping 6"x2" or 140x40mm), two glulam beams circa 440x175mm as joist hangers holding ceiling/roof joists 175x40... all sheeted over with 8'x4' something or other..? (probably 18mm OSB) And that's a shed by your reckoning.. a cheap, creeking monstrosity? (PS @ukconstruction please correct my dimensions where necessary)
Top of the class!! Thank you!!
Dang, knew I wasting hours with the stuff on the roll 😖
Not being funny, but those holes don't look like they would actually stop any insects, maybe rodents?