Also, more important to an RV DIY Power System is DC to DC charging. In the Military, I was a Fuel & Electrical Systems Specialist. Please let me help with a Powerful Suggestion: 1. Great Solar should be secondary. 2. Primary Power should be DC to DC charging. That's extremely powerful!! 3. You should use your Diesel Truck engine to supply power to your RV! Especially when you're on the go and the weather is bad. You could do it quite safely and efficiently. 4. MY SUGGESTION; to get a secondary Alternator install professionally in your Tow Vehicle. Perhaps a BALMAR XT-Series 250 Amp/12 Volt Alternator. Set up TWO Victron Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC Battery Charger. That will give you 100 amp hours of power going into your batteries as you move from area to areas. Or you can just idle your Diesel Engine when you're low on power, and if the Weather is bad. Nate from Explorer's Life shows people how to set up two DC to DC chargers. God Bless you 🙏
Yes. We have considered a DC to DC charger since our truck came equipped for a second alternator. Future upgrade!! Thank you for the suggestion and THANK YOU for your service as well. 🙏
Nice panels with lots of busbars. That's important. Wow, 96 holes in your roof. I thought I had a lot, at 54. Sweet system. It looks professionally done - very aesthetically appealing. The system we built works great but looks like a home-built system. If you don't have a racetrack you don't have to worry about its sharp edges. No one looks at our wiring but us. We're old, retired FTers who discovered we love to boondock. We boondocked for 10 months last year. We designed and built our system ourselves, on a tight budget. It took us 5 years to gather the resources and finally complete the project, doing all the work ourselves. We started by building a 620-watt liftable solar array on the side of our motorhome. Our side array makes a nice bedroom window awning too, practically lifting itself with a couple gas struts, and it's easy to clean, standing safely on the ground. Next, we built a 12v, 560ah LiFePo-4 battery using 8, 280ah prismatic cells and a Heltec 330amp BMS with a 5a active balancer. These cells fit perfectly under the steps of our MH where our old pair of golf cart batteries used to reside. We insulated the battery compartment, cut a small hole in our step risers and installed a tiny computer CPU fan to keep this space at close to room temperature, so we don't have to worry about the BMS shutting down charging due to low temperature - or their life reduced from getting too hot. Our 12v system uses an 80A Progressive Dynamics LFP converter/charger, a 1,000w Renogy inverter, a 50a Epever MPPT charge controller and a Lnex battery monitor. By mounting the solar array on the side of our coach, we left the roof free to rack 8, 550w solar panels down the length of our 35ft Class A, 15" off our roof, above our AC, vents, etc. We built the rack out of 2" 6061-T6 structural aluminum angle. The front 2 panels slope down at a shallow 9.5-degrees to meet the roof, producing a smooth laminar airflow over the array, making the RV more stable with less wind drag while driving too. It shades our entire roof, allowing plenty of cooling air underneath, increasing solar output and reducing the heat load on the air conditioners. Our overall height is still just under 12 ft. Yes, it required making 54 holes in our roof for the mounting bolts, (3 in each foot) but each hole was filled with Henry's silicone caulking, before coating the entire roof, completely covering all array mounting feet, bolts, etc. with Henry's Tropicool 887, with a lifetime guarantee. Our 4,400w array can run both our A/Cs, household appliances and charge our batteries from solar at the same time. We mounted a Sungold Power all-in-one 48V, 5,000W Inverter/100A charge controller/battery charger, breakers and a Lnex battery monitor on the wall in our bedroom, saving us space as well as money compared to a system built with individual components. This all-in-one unit has the same 99% charging and 95% inverter efficiency as the high end Victron unit, though it cost us only $764. We chose this particular unit because it supports up to 500 volts of solar power which was needed to accommodate our 400voc solar array. Our 48v battery uses 16, 320ah prismatic cells and a 200amp Heltec BMS to keep it safe. Together with our 560ah 12v bank, we have a total of 23.5 kwh of batteries onboard - kept charged by 5,020 watts of solar. This is the equivalent storage capacity of 18, 100ah batteries. We removed the rooftop A/C we had in the bedroom and replaced it with an EG4 28.5 seer-2, 12k btu mini-split heat pump on the upper rear of our motorhome. It's super quiet and cools as well as our 14.5k btu soft start equipped Furrion we installed up front. This second phase provides 24/7 off-grid air conditioning and heat from the heat pump. We have a total off-grid electrical self-sufficiency without the need to run our generator, for a total budget of around $11,500, including the high-efficiency heat pump.
An idea for less holes in your roof..... add a 1 or 2 inch square tubing down the length of your rv. Bolt the tubing to the rafters then attach the solar panel feet to the tubing. Less holes in your roof, its more secure AND even more space to allow for even better cooling than just the feet of the panel.
I used 10 foot Unistrut which was screwed into the roof. The individual panels were then bolted to the unistrut. This not only reduced the number of roof penetrations but also allows the panels to removed or adjusted as needed. It also raised the panels a bit higher to allow for air circulation and ease of cleaning underneath the panels. Also if we sell the trailer we can remove the panels without having holes in the roof
@markratliff7991 unistrut is more expensive than 2" square tubing. The roof penetrations would also be the same as my way. Plus you can still take the panels and leave the tubing, plus how many times do you adjust panels? Seriously! Install them and be done with it.
Unistrut or square tubing is a great idea but if you insist on using the supplied brackets, turn them 180 degrees so that the holes through your roof will be covered by the panel and you’ll also be able to simply remove the panel from the brackets for service or replacement.
Running only 400W of solar w/4x 100w panels into a Renogy MPPT Solar Controller/DC to DC Charger. Replaced our original 2002 Converter w/an Abso 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter/Charger (was the largest/only item able to fit below our Oven Drawer (2003 Winnebago Brave 32V) in lieu of the old Converter. . .). On my 2nd (now Gade "A" (Initial "pack" was 4x, 320AH "Grade-B" cells - only lasted about 20 months?) EVE cell 280AH Lithium Ion-Iron Phosphate battery pack (58lbs). (Below our kitchen counter vs the old 4x 6VDC golf cart batteries (290 lbs!) that were below our entry steps!) Only "issue" we have is intermittent(!!) complete "shut down" of the system (need to unplug/replug the 30A cord to reset) if I try to run both ACs at once - even on "Shore Power"! (was "do-able" in the past on shore power w/our Intellitech Power Management system!?) I even installed two "Soft Start" items on the two new Advent, 13500BTU AC units. . . I suspect some "shutdowns" (even w/only one AC Unit active!) MAY be due to "supply" voltage drops (below 110VAC?) during the hottest times/days here in TN. Sort of wish I could just disable the Charge/Converter side of the Abso to reserve more "Amperage" capacity (I can tell the Abso to "charge" at 5, 15, 35 or 55Amps. Current "sweet spot" is at about 15Amps.) Anyway, the Wife is a bit "disgruntled" at all my "meddling"! {:] BTW, we avoided new/extra holes through our Fallon fiberglass (Winnebago!) roof by utilizing 3M VHB double-sided tape on each "Z bracket" capped by a 4"x5" layer of roof-repair tape. No issues w/that fastening system! (Got the idea from a Class-B RV TH-cam channel!)
You miiiight want to look into Mini-Split AC systems. Those rooftop ACs are so inefficient. For some reason none of the manufacturers will use more modern inverter compressors, and the condensers and evaporators are always undersized. The BEST rooftop AC on the market uses twice as much power as an average minisplit system. You can get a 3-4 zone minisplit system for ~$2000 nowadays, and have one large unit on the back of the RV with 3-4 registers throughout the RV. They ALSO do heat, and are MUCH quieter. You could probably also sell your rooftop AC's for $1000 each since they look to be in good condition, so you could buy the minisplit, tools, mounting brackets, etc for under $3k. It's a pretty easy project that just requires a few hours of learning.
Use self tapping screws through the side ears so you can remove the panels if they get damaged Lotta work to unbolt them when you can’t get to the bolts
You could wire your hot water heater elements to work in parallel, but switch to series ( 1/4 the wattage ) when cloudy spells hurt your battery level. The difference I would have done are: 1. separate chargers into separate batteries into separate loads, and 2. Some panels aimed east and west to increase the duration of your charge.
Im in the process of rebuilding my entire roof and solar setup in my 1994 30' 5th wheel. We dont have many needs and live on the west coast of Canada. But we'll have 4 x 405w 36v panels. 3 x 200ah lifePo4. 2 x 60A Renogy MPPT and a 3000w Renogy/Rover Charge/Inverter. Should be plenty for our current needs with low sun in the winter. Love your tidy basement setup. Super clean 🤌
Nice job on the install. I have two comments - I would get rid of the rooftop isolator. They are nothing but trouble and a common failure point. They used to be mandatory in all Australian rooftop solar installations but they've been completely phased out in favour of isolators at the inverter/mppt input. They caused a bunch of fires and completely negated the added "safety". If you think about it an isolator at the inverter does exactly the same thing in a way more convenient and protected place. Secondly I'd like to see that exposed rooftop cabling in exterior PVC conduit (the corrugated flexible type). While the wire is rated for the use and (I hope) double insulated the roof is a particularly harsh UV environment. Not essential but it also offers some additional mechanical protection.
I prefer two points of contact/attachment with the Z bracket and panel such as the Z bracket and the roof. Lots of other videos don’t cover the panel during installation. Safer to cut the light off until completely wired like you did.
Nice system!! We have a similar setup but single 12V Multiplus II, 1200 Watts of solar feeding a Victor 150/85 charge controller, and currently (2) SOK 206 Ah Lithium batteries (limited on space in my front bay but have room for 1 more battery) I installed all this myself on our 2017 Road Warrior 427 Fifth wheel Toyhaule that we also tow with a Ford F450 Platinum. We have more space on the roof for more panels but will have to add an additional charge controller and an additional Lynx distributor (space is the issue)
Space is always a big concern with these projects. Which is why we designed our system the way we did. Space and weight disruption was important. Sounds like you have a great system!
Such a nice clean system. The #1 perk of a van.... roof rack. all those holes scare me, I would have used 4 tubes of lap sealant 🤣 love the DIY gromets for the metal protection. Great job guys.
FWIW good quality wire loom (flexible cover) will protect the wire from the rough edges. I do a lot of wiring in boats that run through holes cut in aluminum and that is what I use to protect the wiring. I've never had a customer failure in 12 years.
That is so awesome, Harold and Cindy. It looks great. Can't wait to see it the next time you're in AZ, and I'm home. Stay safe and happy travels to the whole family.
I was thinking about mounting some panels vertically on the sides of my Class A. Might look a little gaudy, but there is plenty of surface area. Maybe with some adjustable brackets to tilt them upward a bit.
It was way easier than I thought. There was a metal panel on the roof with a hole under it. It went straight down the wall and came out in a pre drilled hole in the bay, right behind the wall. I just had to feed it through. 🙂
Just saw your video. We are wanting to convert to a system like yours. I am curious of what the system cost and what all can run at night and can you make it through the night. Thxs
Hi there! Here is the link to the full system: signaturesolar.com/complete-mobile-solar-kit-for-50-amp-rvs-victron-multiplus-ii-12-3000-12v-input-3000va-output-120-240v-kit-v0004?ref=strange (minus wiring and misc. parts). We can run pretty much anything during the day. At night we use fans. We can get about 8 hours of AC usage at night before having to recharge but every application will be different.
what a sweet system, I have the same setup but 1 multi plus, 600amh bank, and 1000w solar. It fine for what use it for. My next build I am going to try to with a 24v system. It will be a tad more efficent. I will go over you YT vides and look at your starting build.
Thanks! Sounds like you have a great setup as well. You can find all the components here: signaturesolar.com/complete-mobile-solar-kit-for-50-amp-rvs-victron-multiplus-ii-12-3000-12v-input-3000va-output-120-240v-kit-v0004?ref=strange
What would be the cost to set this setup done? If the company didn’t sponsor you? $15k? My wife and I will most probably go solar when we get our travel trailer. We’re considering ORV, Nash or Alliance. Happy camping!
I have a Sungold power system in my 35' pull behind trailer. The inverter is the 6500w with 4 100 amp 5.12kwh batteries and 8 415w solar panels. Had it almost a year now and its been doing great. Where im parked there are a lot of trees but the system doesn't seem to care. If i need a little more power i have a pulsar 4000w generator. Haven't used shore power since October of last year. Its nice not having to deal with shore power. I have it set up so the original shore power cable goes straight to the inverter AC in. The inverter AC out goes to the trailers original electrical box the shore power went in so i can still connect to shore power if needed. That is also where i plug the generator into. Really loke this equipment even though it is larger and takes up a lot of space. I could go 5 or 6 days without sun if needed.
That is awesome! We can't wait to be able to get out and really test our system. We ran an AC on travel day for a couple hours and batteries were still topped off when we got to our destination. Love it!
@summitel on the roof. I think they are 70x44 or so. I could still put a 9th panel up there. I have them set up so I can angle them. Not the best looming setup but most of it can't be seen from ground level. I should add they are not light at 50+ pounds each.
Thanks... It was actually less than that. Here is a link to our complete kit: signaturesolar.com/complete-mobile-solar-kit-for-50-amp-rvs-victron-multiplus-ii-12-3000-12v-input-3000va-output-120-240v-kit-v0004?ref=strange I would add $1.5k-$2k for misc parts and wiring.
Its odd nobody in RV's are building there own battery boxes. You can get MB30/31 cells which have 330ah each for $70 per cell so $1120 for 16 cells which give 16kw of power and you can get a box for $550 so that is $1670. do that 2 times $3340 for 32kw of battery storage. This is for 48v systems which is much better than 12v. Also each box can put out 10kw each of power. Buying those 100ah cells for 5kw each is much more expensive. They also have less cycles of life.
Good tips! I hadn't considered that but I can also say that I love our batteries and the protection they provide. Signature Solar and EG4 has done a great job with these!
I have 1.5m by 1m panels 2 years old that are rated at 380W. New ones of this type are 400W. These are high efficency dual frequency panels. So I get enough power to run my charge controller even when it is overcast. To get more power from his panels, he could try having a DIY adjustible frame that allows the panels to be angled up to 80 degrees. Of course these frames must be a bit more robust as they will be subject to more wind force if you have a spot of weather and have to secure them flat before moving. I am off grid in Alaska all year, winter solstice I get 50% shading from trees 200-300 ft away and my panels are mounted some 30ft above the level of the ground where the trees are. That is what the sun only 6.5 degrees above the horision does. My system is scaled so that I have about a week's worth of usage in the batteries. Now about charge controllers, they use power contionusly my 15KW controller uses 90W to 110W depending on if the fans are on or not or 2.16 kW per 24 hours. So I run my charge controller in the winter only when we have light or are running a generator to recharge batteries. I have a small lead acid bank with 4, 12V gel batteries that I use with a DC to AC controller at night to provide light or short duration microwave use, and recharge it off the main system in the day. Summer, I cannot use all the power available to me. 14.4kW generation on elevated sun tracking mounts, 76.4kW/h LiFePo batteries 60kW/h usable. I have the batteries in my 40' , R30 insulated shipping container and that is where the majority of my heating comes from. For each kW/h stored and then used, the batteries generate 2kW/h in heat, if the load using that power is inside my container, then that is another kW/h in heat. I only used perhaps 1 1/2 20# propane bottles for auxillary heat, even when it was -45F here. LiFePo batteries Pro: More power density than lead acid, not subject to catching fire as the older lithium batteries were notorious for can discharge to only 20% capacity (you can use 80%) compared to 50% on lead acid. Con: Expense, cannot charge if they are at or below freezing (32F or 0C).
What did you use to create the diagrams/drawings of your solar solution? Who did you send it to for verification and how much did they charge to review it?
I used Adobe Illustrator. Nothing fancy. It's roughly to scale but I will say it makes it a little more complicated to draw the wires than a traditional electrical diagram software would have been. I believe you can find electricians who will review your diagram online. I'm fortunate enough to have a few friends that are well versed in this line of work.
We have 4 200 amp lithiums and 1 200 amp agm that runs the 12 volt The inverter is 6000 Magnum running 24 volt. It was set up on 48 volt and the new inverter went bad . 12 volt only has a 3amp charger that doesn't keep up so I have a portable charger that goes up to 15 amp. The solar is around 1050. We have been in 1 park under trees for 4 months while building our home . It's covered in sap. Do you also run a generator ? How many dogs do you have ? We are looking at a 5th wheel but worried about having something big enough for the 3 dogs. Probably have to go with an HDT. BTW you did a great job with your new system !
Thank you so much! We have 3 dogs. Well, 1 is a Chihuahua so really 2.5. 🤣 I haven’t seen a setup quite like you described but as long as it does the job, that’s all that matters!!!
@@1StrangeAdventure Our system does not work well. I was up at 2:30 last night resetting the inverter. It has been a real disappointment We are probably going to buy a fifth wheel, I'll have to really think about setting it up with solar but if I do I'm contacting you. We might go back to Talona for your event if we are settled in.
We used welders cable on both systems... It's much more flexible and easier to work with than traditional battery cable. The multi plus II inverters provides some additional options when it comes to setup and a few more features the others don't have. Plus, we wanted more power! lol 💪
You may want to use a drill /7mm socket to mount your z-brackets, it is 100 times faster. And you want to make sure all the brackets are at the same place on each PV panel. Yes, the panels will produce as soon as the sun hits them, but most good panels use the MC4 connectors and you cannot get shocked, just never plug the connectors together on the same panel. I have several solar systems at my house, at my business, and I do have an RV Class A. I have always used the Z-brackets, but was skeptical about using them on the RV as the roof is so thin. The wiremold was a nice touch. Nice job, does not look like a bird's nest. You can get metal clips to secure your wiring on the roof to the panel frames.
if you are on a pay for electric site you can also set your multiplus to run on solar and battery with only drawing shore power when batteries reach a set point you make or a surge requiring.
@@1StrangeAdventure i just dont want a lightning strike to blow up everything. been way too close this year. stronger more frequent lightning. pop up storms. and hail we NEVER had?
You really should not have mounted them by screwing them into your roof. You should have used 3M 4950 VHB and then covered the feet with self-leveling Dicor or SikaFlex. Hopefully you will not regret drilling holes in your roof. Installed all of our solar panels with VHB 2 years ago and have yet to have an issue.
@@1StrangeAdventure Certainly a personal preference but have been RV'ing a long time and have found drilling holes in a roof of an RV, simply gives water a path to enter.
You can check out the entire kit and even customize it here: signaturesolar.com/complete-mobile-solar-kit-for-50-amp-rvs-victron-multiplus-ii-12-3000-12v-input-3000va-output-120-240v-kit-v0004?ref=strange
Too bad the panels are going to get way too "hot" it's going to compromise the panels, there's just not enough air flow under them, shame to have a beautiful system and compromise its output and its longevity, I've been working with solar longer than these people have been alive, you have to have adequate air flow under your panels
for your own sake its important to be independent, not consult anyone, especially if they are getting paid for teaching you, you dont have anything that you cant yourself make
I've got 10. 480 watt 48 volt on my 5vr roof. Barely enough with the 8500ah of lithium batts. Yes. That right. 8500ah of lithium batts. The only saving grace for the lithium is the heated and cooled underbelly.
Reminds me of a saying "I'd rather have it and not need it then to need it and not have it" solar if you can afford it and have the space no need to not have more then you "need". It will likely be a blessing on cloudy days.
I'm looking into getting it. Have a 2019 Miniewinnie WINABAYGO 15000 miles mint condition. Leaving Long Island NY END OF AUGUST WANT TO LOOK INTO PANELS. GOOD VIDEO TALK SOON
Also, more important to an RV DIY Power System is DC to DC charging.
In the Military, I was a Fuel & Electrical Systems Specialist.
Please let me help with a Powerful Suggestion:
1. Great Solar should be secondary.
2. Primary Power should be DC to DC charging. That's extremely powerful!!
3. You should use your Diesel Truck engine to supply power to your RV! Especially when you're on the go and the weather is bad. You could do it quite safely and efficiently.
4. MY SUGGESTION; to get a secondary Alternator install professionally in your Tow Vehicle. Perhaps a BALMAR XT-Series 250 Amp/12 Volt Alternator.
Set up TWO Victron Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC Battery Charger. That will give you 100 amp hours of power going into your batteries as you move from area to areas. Or you can just idle your Diesel Engine when you're low on power, and if the Weather is bad.
Nate from Explorer's Life shows people how to set up two DC to DC chargers.
God Bless you 🙏
Yes. We have considered a DC to DC charger since our truck came equipped for a second alternator. Future upgrade!! Thank you for the suggestion and THANK YOU for your service as well. 🙏
Nice panels with lots of busbars. That's important. Wow, 96 holes in your roof. I thought I had a lot, at 54. Sweet system. It looks professionally done - very aesthetically appealing. The system we built works great but looks like a home-built system. If you don't have a racetrack you don't have to worry about its sharp edges. No one looks at our wiring but us.
We're old, retired FTers who discovered we love to boondock. We boondocked for 10 months last year. We designed and built our system ourselves, on a tight budget. It took us 5 years to gather the resources and finally complete the project, doing all the work ourselves. We started by building a 620-watt liftable solar array on the side of our motorhome. Our side array makes a nice bedroom window awning too, practically lifting itself with a couple gas struts, and it's easy to clean, standing safely on the ground. Next, we built a 12v, 560ah LiFePo-4 battery using 8, 280ah prismatic cells and a Heltec 330amp BMS with a 5a active balancer. These cells fit perfectly under the steps of our MH where our old pair of golf cart batteries used to reside.
We insulated the battery compartment, cut a small hole in our step risers and installed a tiny computer CPU fan to keep this space at close to room temperature, so we don't have to worry about the BMS shutting down charging due to low temperature - or their life reduced from getting too hot. Our 12v system uses an 80A Progressive Dynamics LFP converter/charger, a 1,000w Renogy inverter, a 50a Epever MPPT charge controller and a Lnex battery monitor.
By mounting the solar array on the side of our coach, we left the roof free to rack 8, 550w solar panels down the length of our 35ft Class A, 15" off our roof, above our AC, vents, etc. We built the rack out of 2" 6061-T6 structural aluminum angle. The front 2 panels slope down at a shallow 9.5-degrees to meet the roof, producing a smooth laminar airflow over the array, making the RV more stable with less wind drag while driving too. It shades our entire roof, allowing plenty of cooling air underneath, increasing solar output and reducing the heat load on the air conditioners. Our overall height is still just under 12 ft. Yes, it required making 54 holes in our roof for the mounting bolts, (3 in each foot) but each hole was filled with Henry's silicone caulking, before coating the entire roof, completely covering all array mounting feet, bolts, etc. with Henry's Tropicool 887, with a lifetime guarantee.
Our 4,400w array can run both our A/Cs, household appliances and charge our batteries from solar at the same time. We mounted a Sungold Power all-in-one 48V, 5,000W Inverter/100A charge controller/battery charger, breakers and a Lnex battery monitor on the wall in our bedroom, saving us space as well as money compared to a system built with individual components. This all-in-one unit has the same 99% charging and 95% inverter efficiency as the high end Victron unit, though it cost us only $764. We chose this particular unit because it supports up to 500 volts of solar power which was needed to accommodate our 400voc solar array. Our 48v battery uses 16, 320ah prismatic cells and a 200amp Heltec BMS to keep it safe. Together with our 560ah 12v bank, we have a total of 23.5 kwh of batteries onboard - kept charged by 5,020 watts of solar. This is the equivalent storage capacity of 18, 100ah batteries. We removed the rooftop A/C we had in the bedroom and replaced it with an EG4 28.5 seer-2, 12k btu mini-split heat pump on the upper rear of our motorhome. It's super quiet and cools as well as our 14.5k btu soft start equipped Furrion we installed up front. This second phase provides 24/7 off-grid air conditioning and heat from the heat pump. We have a total off-grid electrical self-sufficiency without the need to run our generator, for a total budget of around $11,500, including the high-efficiency heat pump.
Sounds amazing!
Where can we see this set up! Wow!
Congrats! Sounds like an awesome setup!!
An idea for less holes in your roof..... add a 1 or 2 inch square tubing down the length of your rv. Bolt the tubing to the rafters then attach the solar panel feet to the tubing. Less holes in your roof, its more secure AND even more space to allow for even better cooling than just the feet of the panel.
Thanks for the tip! We will have to consider this next time for sure!
I used 10 foot Unistrut which was screwed into the roof. The individual panels were then bolted to the unistrut. This not only reduced the number of roof penetrations but also allows the panels to removed or adjusted as needed. It also raised the panels a bit higher to allow for air circulation and ease of cleaning underneath the panels. Also if we sell the trailer we can remove the panels without having holes in the roof
@markratliff7991 unistrut is more expensive than 2" square tubing. The roof penetrations would also be the same as my way. Plus you can still take the panels and leave the tubing, plus how many times do you adjust panels? Seriously! Install them and be done with it.
Unistrut or square tubing is a great idea but if you insist on using the supplied brackets, turn them 180 degrees so that the holes through your roof will be covered by the panel and you’ll also be able to simply remove the panel from the brackets for service or replacement.
@@NigelM18Both methods accomplish the same end result, which is less roof penetrations
Running only 400W of solar w/4x 100w panels into a Renogy MPPT Solar Controller/DC to DC Charger. Replaced our original 2002 Converter w/an Abso 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter/Charger (was the largest/only item able to fit below our Oven Drawer (2003 Winnebago Brave 32V) in lieu of the old Converter. . .). On my 2nd (now Gade "A" (Initial "pack" was 4x, 320AH "Grade-B" cells - only lasted about 20 months?) EVE cell 280AH Lithium Ion-Iron Phosphate battery pack (58lbs). (Below our kitchen counter vs the old 4x 6VDC golf cart batteries (290 lbs!) that were below our entry steps!)
Only "issue" we have is intermittent(!!) complete "shut down" of the system (need to unplug/replug the 30A cord to reset) if I try to run both ACs at once - even on "Shore Power"! (was "do-able" in the past on shore power w/our Intellitech Power Management system!?) I even installed two "Soft Start" items on the two new Advent, 13500BTU AC units. . . I suspect some "shutdowns" (even w/only one AC Unit active!) MAY be due to "supply" voltage drops (below 110VAC?) during the hottest times/days here in TN.
Sort of wish I could just disable the Charge/Converter side of the Abso to reserve more "Amperage" capacity (I can tell the Abso to "charge" at 5, 15, 35 or 55Amps. Current "sweet spot" is at about 15Amps.)
Anyway, the Wife is a bit "disgruntled" at all my "meddling"! {:]
BTW, we avoided new/extra holes through our Fallon fiberglass (Winnebago!) roof by utilizing 3M VHB double-sided tape on each "Z bracket" capped by a 4"x5" layer of roof-repair tape. No issues w/that fastening system! (Got the idea from a Class-B RV TH-cam channel!)
You miiiight want to look into Mini-Split AC systems. Those rooftop ACs are so inefficient. For some reason none of the manufacturers will use more modern inverter compressors, and the condensers and evaporators are always undersized. The BEST rooftop AC on the market uses twice as much power as an average minisplit system. You can get a 3-4 zone minisplit system for ~$2000 nowadays, and have one large unit on the back of the RV with 3-4 registers throughout the RV. They ALSO do heat, and are MUCH quieter. You could probably also sell your rooftop AC's for $1000 each since they look to be in good condition, so you could buy the minisplit, tools, mounting brackets, etc for under $3k. It's a pretty easy project that just requires a few hours of learning.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Use self tapping screws through the side ears so you can remove the panels if they get damaged
Lotta work to unbolt them when you can’t get to the bolts
Wish I had thought about that! 🙂
That is one slick wiring job! Nice work!
Thanks 👍
Good job Harold, looks like it's working well.
Thanks! It’s working great!!!
You could wire your hot water heater elements to work in parallel, but switch to series ( 1/4 the wattage ) when cloudy spells hurt your battery level. The difference I would have done are: 1. separate chargers into separate batteries into separate loads, and 2. Some panels aimed east and west to increase the duration of your charge.
Im in the process of rebuilding my entire roof and solar setup in my 1994 30' 5th wheel. We dont have many needs and live on the west coast of Canada. But we'll have 4 x 405w 36v panels. 3 x 200ah lifePo4. 2 x 60A Renogy MPPT and a 3000w Renogy/Rover Charge/Inverter. Should be plenty for our current needs with low sun in the winter. Love your tidy basement setup. Super clean 🤌
That sounds like a great system and as long as it works for you guys, it's perfect! We hope to start exploring Canada more at some point. Thanks!
Nice job on the install. I have two comments - I would get rid of the rooftop isolator. They are nothing but trouble and a common failure point. They used to be mandatory in all Australian rooftop solar installations but they've been completely phased out in favour of isolators at the inverter/mppt input. They caused a bunch of fires and completely negated the added "safety". If you think about it an isolator at the inverter does exactly the same thing in a way more convenient and protected place. Secondly I'd like to see that exposed rooftop cabling in exterior PVC conduit (the corrugated flexible type). While the wire is rated for the use and (I hope) double insulated the roof is a particularly harsh UV environment. Not essential but it also offers some additional mechanical protection.
Thank you for the suggestions! Will definitely be making some adjustments after using it for a while.
I prefer two points of contact/attachment with the Z bracket and panel such as the Z bracket and the roof. Lots of other videos don’t cover the panel during installation. Safer to cut the light off until completely wired like you did.
Great job!
Thanks!
I mounted same solar panels to my toy hauler roof -basic same setup as you-love it. Put solar on my house too with 30 kWh of batteries-love it.
Nice system!! We have a similar setup but single 12V Multiplus II, 1200 Watts of solar feeding a Victor 150/85 charge controller, and currently (2) SOK 206 Ah Lithium batteries (limited on space in my front bay but have room for 1 more battery) I installed all this myself on our 2017 Road Warrior 427 Fifth wheel Toyhaule that we also tow with a Ford F450 Platinum. We have more space on the roof for more panels but will have to add an additional charge controller and an additional Lynx distributor (space is the issue)
Space is always a big concern with these projects. Which is why we designed our system the way we did. Space and weight disruption was important. Sounds like you have a great system!
I'd love to see you guys weigh in at a CAT scale with the new truck and rig updates.
I’m scared to… haha. We’ve actually gotten rig of a lot of stuff lately.
Adam De Lay breaks down how to quite well on his home system he installed recently. Multiple ways to do it.
Sounds good, will have to check it out!
Such a nice clean system. The #1 perk of a van.... roof rack. all those holes scare me, I would have used 4 tubes of lap sealant 🤣 love the DIY gromets for the metal protection. Great job guys.
So good to hear from you! We hope all is well. All the holes do scare us that's why we used almost 5 tubes! haha! Thanks for watching! 🙂
I have lightning and EMP arresters on my system, just wondering if that's an option for your system?
FWIW good quality wire loom (flexible cover) will protect the wire from the rough edges. I do a lot of wiring in boats that run through holes cut in aluminum and that is what I use to protect the wiring. I've never had a customer failure in 12 years.
That’s a useful tip. Thanks for the info!
Really nice job on your install. We love having our system. It opens up so many options and freedom
Thanks! We are just learning about the freedom it provides. Hope to explore it even more very soon!
yes love your set up
would've liked to see your mounting process on the roof
Great job. Question how do you connect 2 inverters to your AC panel? Both in parallel to panel and from pedestal?
That is so awesome, Harold and Cindy. It looks great. Can't wait to see it the next time you're in AZ, and I'm home. Stay safe and happy travels to the whole family.
We were bummed we missed you but grateful for the time we had with your better half. ☺️
I was thinking about mounting some panels vertically on the sides of my Class A.
Might look a little gaudy, but there is plenty of surface area.
Maybe with some adjustable brackets to tilt them upward a bit.
Sounds like an interesting idea, good luck!
Great job on the install! I am jealous, we need more panels for when we are boon docking. Glad it all worked out for you guys. Miss ya! --Jen
Next time we're boondocking in the desert, we will not be installing batteries! 😜
Having the city power turned off, how long before you recoup the solar power start-up cost?
Show how you ran the solar wires from the roof through your RV and down into you battery/solar charge converter box.
It was way easier than I thought. There was a metal panel on the roof with a hole under it. It went straight down the wall and came out in a pre drilled hole in the bay, right behind the wall. I just had to feed it through. 🙂
Impressive system there.
just put up a fresh solar system today also just studying it. See how it goes.500w
We've been slowly testing it out as well!
Just saw your video. We are wanting to convert to a system like yours. I am curious of what the system cost and what all can run at night and can you make it through the night. Thxs
Hi there! Here is the link to the full system: signaturesolar.com/complete-mobile-solar-kit-for-50-amp-rvs-victron-multiplus-ii-12-3000-12v-input-3000va-output-120-240v-kit-v0004?ref=strange (minus wiring and misc. parts). We can run pretty much anything during the day. At night we use fans. We can get about 8 hours of AC usage at night before having to recharge but every application will be different.
what a sweet system, I have the same setup but 1 multi plus, 600amh bank, and 1000w solar. It fine for what use it for. My next build I am going to try to with a 24v system. It will be a tad more efficent. I will go over you YT vides and look at your starting build.
Thanks! Sounds like you have a great setup as well. You can find all the components here: signaturesolar.com/complete-mobile-solar-kit-for-50-amp-rvs-victron-multiplus-ii-12-3000-12v-input-3000va-output-120-240v-kit-v0004?ref=strange
Nice job Harold!
Thank you!!!
Neatly done! 👍🏾
Thank you! 👍
After that installation, Harold , you just had to ...18:41😂👍🏾
of course! 🤪
What would be the cost to set this setup done? If the company didn’t sponsor you? $15k?
My wife and I will most probably go solar when we get our travel trailer.
We’re considering ORV, Nash or Alliance.
Happy camping!
Thanks for sharing 😊😊😊
Thanks for watching
I have a Sungold power system in my 35' pull behind trailer. The inverter is the 6500w with 4 100 amp 5.12kwh batteries and 8 415w solar panels. Had it almost a year now and its been doing great. Where im parked there are a lot of trees but the system doesn't seem to care. If i need a little more power i have a pulsar 4000w generator. Haven't used shore power since October of last year. Its nice not having to deal with shore power. I have it set up so the original shore power cable goes straight to the inverter AC in. The inverter AC out goes to the trailers original electrical box the shore power went in so i can still connect to shore power if needed. That is also where i plug the generator into. Really loke this equipment even though it is larger and takes up a lot of space. I could go 5 or 6 days without sun if needed.
That is awesome! We can't wait to be able to get out and really test our system. We ran an AC on travel day for a couple hours and batteries were still topped off when we got to our destination. Love it!
Where do you have your panels mounted? They are wide
@summitel on the roof. I think they are 70x44 or so. I could still put a 9th panel up there. I have them set up so I can angle them. Not the best looming setup but most of it can't be seen from ground level. I should add they are not light at 50+ pounds each.
Do you have an overhead picture of your panel’s layout?
@summitel I will try and dig them out. They are on another computer and I am having issues with sciatica 😵💫 and not sure if I can get to it.
Very nice system, you just found a new way to make money!
That was a lot of work but I loved doing it!
Nice tip.
Well done 😮🎉
Great system guys!
Thank you!
Great job on the solar Harold. I see you slipping in some dad jokes, too.
haha! you know it! Thanks for your help!
Great video! What was total investment? Including batteries, victron equipment and panels? Close to $20K?
Thanks... It was actually less than that.
Here is a link to our complete kit: signaturesolar.com/complete-mobile-solar-kit-for-50-amp-rvs-victron-multiplus-ii-12-3000-12v-input-3000va-output-120-240v-kit-v0004?ref=strange
I would add $1.5k-$2k for misc parts and wiring.
@@1StrangeAdventure I missed how much batteries you might have
Its odd nobody in RV's are building there own battery boxes. You can get MB30/31 cells which have 330ah each for $70 per cell so $1120 for 16 cells which give 16kw of power and you can get a box for $550 so that is $1670. do that 2 times $3340 for 32kw of battery storage. This is for 48v systems which is much better than 12v. Also each box can put out 10kw each of power. Buying those 100ah cells for 5kw each is much more expensive. They also have less cycles of life.
Good tips! I hadn't considered that but I can also say that I love our batteries and the protection they provide. Signature Solar and EG4 has done a great job with these!
great job.
Thank you!
Hey Harold n Family how’s the Ford doing n improve mpgs
Ford is doing great!! Love that truck!
What does you battery banks look like
How many and what size batteries, can't read the qr code at the moment..thx
Was it hot on that roof setting g those panels??
We have 4 batteries, 400AH each totaling 1600AH. It was extremely hot on the roof. I could only do 2-3 panels at a time. 🥵
Are there 400 watt panels that are the same size of the 200 watt you have?
I have 1.5m by 1m panels 2 years old that are rated at 380W. New ones of this type are 400W. These are high efficency dual frequency panels. So I get enough power to run my charge controller even when it is overcast. To get more power from his panels, he could try having a DIY adjustible frame that allows the panels to be angled up to 80 degrees. Of course these frames must be a bit more robust as they will be subject to more wind force if you have a spot of weather and have to secure them flat before moving. I am off grid in Alaska all year, winter solstice I get 50% shading from trees 200-300 ft away and my panels are mounted some 30ft above the level of the ground where the trees are. That is what the sun only 6.5 degrees above the horision does. My system is scaled so that I have about a week's worth of usage in the batteries. Now about charge controllers, they use power contionusly my 15KW controller uses 90W to 110W depending on if the fans are on or not or 2.16 kW per 24 hours. So I run my charge controller in the winter only when we have light or are running a generator to recharge batteries. I have a small lead acid bank with 4, 12V gel batteries that I use with a DC to AC controller at night to provide light or short duration microwave use, and recharge it off the main system in the day. Summer, I cannot use all the power available to me. 14.4kW generation on elevated sun tracking mounts, 76.4kW/h LiFePo batteries 60kW/h usable. I have the batteries in my 40' , R30 insulated shipping container and that is where the majority of my heating comes from. For each kW/h stored and then used, the batteries generate 2kW/h in heat, if the load using that power is inside my container, then that is another kW/h in heat. I only used perhaps 1 1/2 20# propane bottles for auxillary heat, even when it was -45F here. LiFePo batteries Pro: More power density than lead acid, not subject to catching fire as the older lithium batteries were notorious for can discharge to only 20% capacity (you can use 80%) compared to 50% on lead acid. Con: Expense, cannot charge if they are at or below freezing (32F or 0C).
What did you use to create the diagrams/drawings of your solar solution? Who did you send it to for verification and how much did they charge to review it?
I used Adobe Illustrator. Nothing fancy. It's roughly to scale but I will say it makes it a little more complicated to draw the wires than a traditional electrical diagram software would have been. I believe you can find electricians who will review your diagram online. I'm fortunate enough to have a few friends that are well versed in this line of work.
@@1StrangeAdventure I guess I need to get some more useful friends. :-)
We have 4 200 amp lithiums and 1 200 amp agm that runs the 12 volt The inverter is 6000 Magnum running 24 volt. It was set up on 48 volt and the new inverter went bad . 12 volt only has a 3amp charger that doesn't keep up so I have a portable charger that goes up to 15 amp. The solar is around 1050. We have been in 1 park under trees for 4 months while building our home . It's covered in sap. Do you also run a generator ? How many dogs do you have ? We are looking at a 5th wheel but worried about having something big enough for the 3 dogs. Probably have to go with an HDT. BTW you did a great job with your new system !
Thank you so much! We have 3 dogs. Well, 1 is a Chihuahua so really 2.5. 🤣 I haven’t seen a setup quite like you described but as long as it does the job, that’s all that matters!!!
@@1StrangeAdventure Our system does not work well. I was up at 2:30 last night resetting the inverter. It has been a real disappointment We are probably going to buy a fifth wheel, I'll have to really think about setting it up with solar but if I do I'm contacting you. We might go back to Talona for your event if we are settled in.
Was there something wrong with y’all’s old system? Like using battery cable versus welder wire? And the multi pluses you already had?
We used welders cable on both systems... It's much more flexible and easier to work with than traditional battery cable. The multi plus II inverters provides some additional options when it comes to setup and a few more features the others don't have. Plus, we wanted more power! lol 💪
You may want to use a drill /7mm socket to mount your z-brackets, it is 100 times faster.
And you want to make sure all the brackets are at the same place on each PV panel.
Yes, the panels will produce as soon as the sun hits them, but most good panels use the MC4 connectors and you cannot get shocked, just never plug the connectors together on the same panel.
I have several solar systems at my house, at my business, and I do have an RV Class A.
I have always used the Z-brackets, but was skeptical about using them on the RV as the roof is so thin.
The wiremold was a nice touch.
Nice job, does not look like a bird's nest.
You can get metal clips to secure your wiring on the roof to the panel frames.
Thank you for the feedback!
Great idea new EcoFlow delta pro 3 and EcoFlow delta smart Duo fuel
Generator 4000 watts test it out on TH-cam video 😮👍
Thanks for the idea! I’ll have to look into that!
if you are on a pay for electric site you can also set your multiplus to run on solar and battery with only drawing shore power when batteries reach a set point you make or a surge requiring.
Yes! We've been looking into this. I definitely want to learn more about it!
heres my new solar panel problem. ⚡ amazing lightning storms. NEVER in the past was this an issue. 5 close hits lately. so grounding has become job 1
Do you think there is a correlation between the panels and the lightning strikes? We haven't had this issue.
@@1StrangeAdventure i just dont want a lightning strike to blow up everything. been way too close this year. stronger more frequent lightning. pop up storms. and hail we NEVER had?
@joeyjennings9548 understandable
nice job
Thanks!
yay do that to mine
So worth it! =)
When will you get wind turbine to power you at night ? 💙
Oh, I have already thought about incorporating wind and water power! 😉
You really should not have mounted them by screwing them into your roof. You should have used 3M 4950 VHB and then covered the feet with self-leveling Dicor or SikaFlex. Hopefully you will not regret drilling holes in your roof. Installed all of our solar panels with VHB 2 years ago and have yet to have an issue.
Thanks for the tips! We're good so far. Hopefully it stays that way!
@@1StrangeAdventure Certainly a personal preference but have been RV'ing a long time and have found drilling holes in a roof of an RV, simply gives water a path to enter.
How much is a system like that cost?
You can check out the entire kit and even customize it here: signaturesolar.com/complete-mobile-solar-kit-for-50-amp-rvs-victron-multiplus-ii-12-3000-12v-input-3000va-output-120-240v-kit-v0004?ref=strange
I imagine that place is super hot. I live here in Canada. I don't know places like that that are so desertic and hot.
Great in the winter, but it got hot fast this year! 109F one day! 🥵
@@1StrangeAdventure 😲😲🥵🥵
Where are you?
C4YT God Bless
Thank you!!!
C4strange
Too bad the panels are going to get way too "hot" it's going to compromise the panels, there's just not enough air flow under them, shame to have a beautiful system and compromise its output and its longevity, I've been working with solar longer than these people have been alive, you have to have adequate air flow under your panels
What does adequate mean to you? Can you clarify?
for your own sake its important to be independent, not consult anyone, especially if they are getting paid for teaching you, you dont have anything that you cant yourself make
We are fortunate enough to have friends with experience in this area so we didn't have to pay anyone to consult.
KUTGW
Thanks!
12 panels?? something wrong with you people--- you dont need 12 panels
You’re right! We probably need more! 😉
I've got 10. 480 watt 48 volt on my 5vr roof. Barely enough with the 8500ah of lithium batts. Yes. That right. 8500ah of lithium batts. The only saving grace for the lithium is the heated and cooled underbelly.
Reminds me of a saying "I'd rather have it and not need it then to need it and not have it" solar if you can afford it and have the space no need to not have more then you "need". It will likely be a blessing on cloudy days.
Talona Ridge is a terrible RV resort
What makes you say that? We've always enjoyed our time there.
I'm looking into getting it. Have a 2019
Miniewinnie WINABAYGO
15000 miles mint condition. Leaving Long Island NY END OF AUGUST WANT TO LOOK INTO PANELS.
GOOD VIDEO
TALK SOON
So does the partnership with Signature Solar mean you got this system for free ?
Question for ya, Why do you have a solar switch on the roof, what is the purpose of the switch there as you have one next to the MPPTs
Not required, but I liked the idea of being able to cut the solar off from the bay or the roof.