you are using that torch just after you spilled gasoline all over your workbench!!! Potential to be a very impressive video, one your wife and kids will remember for years!-----Mikey
I finally broke down and got out my plumbing torch to heat up the EPA cap. You said to let it get red hot and start to melt. Well mine just melted like solder and fell off, exposing the screw nicely. No way the cap could ever be used again. Good thing it's just a nuisance anyway. Cleaning out that area finally did the trick after four carb removals without. Thanks a bunch.
I followed these instructions and brought my 2005 Honda 2 hp back to life. Thank you for clearly explaining and documenting the steps. All I would add is when he set the camera down to disconnect the choke cable from the carburetor and kind of obscured the view of that step, just know that the throttle cable and fuel line must be disconnected first in order to be able to move the carburetor around to work it off the bend at the end of the choke cable. Also, I did not put the EPA cap back on. The motor runs fine without it.
You should edit this and upload another separate video showing just the part where you remove the anti-tamper cap on the idle jet. It would be easier to find here on TH-cam as an excellent reference for those who have never done it or don't know how it is done. This is a great video overall but the cap removal part is something unique and special that I don't think exists anywhere else on this site.
Thanks for doing this video. I did everything and still had no luck. I did notice that the fuel flow from the tank was a bit light so loosened the filler cap and the motor ran as it should. I guess the vent wasn't working on the cap. Hopefully that will finally solve my problem.
Worked well. Saved $94. One thing...be careful of loose float pivot pin and bushings on plastic parts. Razor knife worked at cleaning out remaining Loctite on adjustment screw head. Thanks Jessie.
You can heat up the tiny screwdriver you are using with the torch and then press it into the slot while hot creating a custom-fitted screwhead slot but don't let it cool there and glue itself to the fragile screw. Honda sure puts a lot of locktite in there.
beautiful!! just followed your steps to clean the carb. my enginee was only running on chocked. And i found the injector has a bit cog, give everything a clean up, now works like charm!! One thing need pay attention the throttle adjustment, it maybe not back to orginal postion, then you need adjust it a bit, it's very sensitive.
People asking about EPA cap. It's only there to stop you from getting to air screw. Once you've bypassed that, no need to put it back unless you really want too...
Just bought a nearly new 2.3 the owner was frustrated with. I'm sure it's a carb issue as it has spark and compression. Once the arctic temperatures subside tomorrow, I'll get it out of the back of the car and give it a whirl. Thanks this is hugely helpful
Make sure the fuel cap vent is allowing air into the tank in the on position. If not enough air gets in it will run poorly or not at all. It plugs if gas was ever allowed to seep into the cap because of overfilling or the vent was not turned off when the engine was tipped. This can totally plug up the charcoal and no air can flow Honda wants upwards of $100 for the cap but the three vent holes can be drilled out to 3/32" or so and all the charcoal pellets and foam crap inside dug out carefully by shaking and using a tweezers after carefully breaking it up with the drill bit you used to enlarge the bottom three holes. More holes in the bottom side can be drilled if the first three aren't enough. The top hole under the switch can be drilled out to 1/64" or so if you totally disassemble the cap and look under the little rubber gasket. The charcoal makes a mess so do this in a bucket or cardboard box. It's a bit of work but better than paying $100 for a stupid EPA gas cap that has no business on an outboard motor. I did this and plenty of air flows and it still totally seals when the vent is turned off. The temporary fix is to loosen the entire cap a little to let air in if the vent switch is not allowing any in. If this fixes the running problem then the cap is plugged and needs to be replaced or "cleaned" as I have described above.
Thanks for the video. Glad you didn't set fire to yourself! A question...At what point did you put the EPA cap back on and did you need to re-do the heat activated locktite?
The idle jet screw is radically cut-away in the center portion and is designed to easily self-destruct if tampered with. It is very fragile, so the less messing with it the better. Leave the cap off, and then you can adjust the setting with the engine running to fine tune it. With the clutch for the prop being a little finicky in itself you want the idle and off-idle acceleration to be crisp and quick or else this outboard makes slow-speed maneuvering around a dock or other boats a real bother. Honda already made the jetting on these outboards as lean as practicable in order to get their 4-star emissions rating which doesn't help with the clutch issue at all.
rather than flame off the EPA cap I used a Dremel with a cutting blade and heated it up enough to pry off. My intention was just to cut off locking part but I ended up prying it off after heat build up from cutting as the EPA cap was spinning without turning the jet. thank you!
Helpful, but hit a snag with removing the EPA cap. I thought I had heated it up enough, but when I pulled it off, it took the head of the jet screw with it. Perhaps I didn't heat it enough or perhaps I didn't give a straight enough pull? Either way, It is going to be very difficult to remove the stub of the screw, as access is very limited. I notice you did say there was a risk this might happen, but I would like to emphasis the point! Ralph.
Great video that I found very usefull especially with alignment issue. One question- you did not mention the two paper gaskets that sit between the carb and the plastic housings. How does one keep them in line when putting everything together?
A heat gun works just fine for removing the EPA cap. Took about 15 seconds on high, then a little more heat to soften the gunk clogging the screw head. The cap was not glowing. Is the heat gun safer around gasoline? Probably not.
Thanks for the video. Jeth Lee mentioned the EPA cap. Does it go back on? I don’t recall seeing you put that back on. I’m in need of the same repair but I would like to make sure I don’t screw anything up.
hello Jesse, one question ,what about the heat cap ? you didn't remount the EPA cap over the idle air mixture screw, on the rebuild?? other than that , your video was very informative. Thank you for posting!
The cap is there to keep you from "tampering" with the richness mixture settings of that screw underneath. Before these caps were "required" by the EPA all carburetors left them out in the open along with the idle screw and other adjustment screws on the carb. It doesn't need to be covered up again unless you don't trust yourself not to "tamper" with it like you already have Now that you know how to take the cover off why bother trying to put the genie back into the bottle by putting it back on?. The next time the carb gums up you will need to take it off to clean that jet anyhow.
Great video. I'd already had my carb apart with little improvement - only thing I don't get is: how come your emulsion tube just fell out after you removed the jet? Mine seems pretty fixed (if it wasn't fixed the jet wouldn't unscrew would it?) and I've no idea how to dislodge it.
Hi. Are the carburettors for 2.3 and 2.0 identical apart from the main jet size? I ask as the price for the 2.3 is double so I’m considering modifying the jet if my old one won’t come out in good condition. Thanks
good morning, very good your video, i have a problem with the honda bf 2hp engine, i can't adjust the carburetor, bike works hard, doesn't regulate the air passage, i bought a new carburetor Similar to the original, but i have the same problem , can I give a hint?
I missed seeing you put the screw that you had to heat up to remove... sorry but I’m confused about that step... would appreciate a reply if you have a chance ... Thanks, ... John.... Ontario, Canada...
Why does my Honda 2.3 Outboard smoke a lot of white smoke, only runs with full choke? It seems that it is getting petrol from the carburetor, but some air and a lot of crankcase oil from somewhere else! Could it be a failed intake valve seal? I do not think that it is piston rings as it would run without full choke. This little engine does not appear to have a separate cylinder head so it cannot be due to a gasket!
Thanks for the vid, great info. I have just bought one for my raft and I live at or above 5000' in elevation, do you know how to adjust the carb mixture for higher altitude? Thanks for the help.
you are using that torch just after you spilled gasoline all over your workbench!!! Potential to be a very impressive video, one your wife and kids will remember for years!-----Mikey
I finally broke down and got out my plumbing torch to heat up the EPA cap. You said to let it get red hot and start to melt. Well mine just melted like solder and fell off, exposing the screw nicely. No way the cap could ever be used again. Good thing it's just a nuisance anyway. Cleaning out that area finally did the trick after four carb removals without. Thanks a bunch.
I followed these instructions and brought my 2005 Honda 2 hp back to life. Thank you for clearly explaining and documenting the steps. All I would add is when he set the camera down to disconnect the choke cable from the carburetor and kind of obscured the view of that step, just know that the throttle cable and fuel line must be disconnected first in order to be able to move the carburetor around to work it off the bend at the end of the choke cable. Also, I did not put the EPA cap back on. The motor runs fine without it.
Hi James, it's far easier to lift the choke rod up and off at the choke knob end. Then you can easily take it out of the carby
You should edit this and upload another separate video showing just the part where you remove the anti-tamper cap on the idle jet. It would be easier to find here on TH-cam as an excellent reference for those who have never done it or don't know how it is done. This is a great video overall but the cap removal part is something unique and special that I don't think exists anywhere else on this site.
Thanks for doing this video. I did everything and still had no luck. I did notice that the fuel flow from the tank was a bit light so loosened the filler cap and the motor ran as it should. I guess the vent wasn't working on the cap. Hopefully that will finally solve my problem.
Worked well. Saved $94. One thing...be careful of loose float pivot pin and bushings on plastic parts. Razor knife worked at cleaning out remaining Loctite on adjustment screw head. Thanks Jessie.
You can heat up the tiny screwdriver you are using with the torch and then press it into the slot while hot creating a custom-fitted screwhead slot but don't let it cool there and glue itself to the fragile screw. Honda sure puts a lot of locktite in there.
beautiful!! just followed your steps to clean the carb. my enginee was only running on chocked. And i found the injector has a bit cog, give everything a clean up, now works like charm!! One thing need pay attention the throttle adjustment, it maybe not back to orginal postion, then you need adjust it a bit, it's very sensitive.
Just put a fuel filter between the gas tank and carburetor and you will never have to clean the carb again, thanks Mark
People asking about EPA cap. It's only there to stop you from getting to air screw. Once you've bypassed that, no need to put it back unless you really want too...
Just bought a nearly new 2.3 the owner was frustrated with. I'm sure it's a carb issue as it has spark and compression. Once the arctic temperatures subside tomorrow, I'll get it out of the back of the car and give it a whirl. Thanks this is hugely helpful
Make sure the fuel cap vent is allowing air into the tank in the on position. If not enough air gets in it will run poorly or not at all.
It plugs if gas was ever allowed to seep into the cap because of overfilling or the vent was not turned off when the engine was tipped. This can totally plug up the charcoal and no air can flow
Honda wants upwards of $100 for the cap but the three vent holes can be drilled out to 3/32" or so and all the charcoal pellets and foam crap inside dug out carefully by shaking and using a tweezers after carefully breaking it up with the drill bit you used to enlarge the bottom three holes. More holes in the bottom side can be drilled if the first three aren't enough.
The top hole under the switch can be drilled out to 1/64" or so if you totally disassemble the cap and look under the little rubber gasket.
The charcoal makes a mess so do this in a bucket or cardboard box. It's a bit of work but better than paying $100 for a stupid EPA gas cap that has no business on an outboard motor. I did this and plenty of air flows and it still totally seals when the vent is turned off.
The temporary fix is to loosen the entire cap a little to let air in if the vent switch is not allowing any in. If this fixes the running problem then the cap is plugged and needs to be replaced or "cleaned" as I have described above.
Thanks for the video. Glad you didn't set fire to yourself! A question...At what point did you put the EPA cap back on and did you need to re-do the heat activated locktite?
i just snap it a bit and put it back
The idle jet screw is radically cut-away in the center portion and is designed to easily self-destruct if tampered with. It is very fragile, so the less messing with it the better.
Leave the cap off, and then you can adjust the setting with the engine running to fine tune it. With the clutch for the prop being a little finicky in itself you want the idle and off-idle acceleration to be crisp and quick or else this outboard makes slow-speed maneuvering around a dock or other boats a real bother.
Honda already made the jetting on these outboards as lean as practicable in order to get their 4-star emissions rating which doesn't help with the clutch issue at all.
rather than flame off the EPA cap I used a Dremel with a cutting blade and heated it up enough to pry off. My intention was just to cut off locking part but I ended up prying it off after heat build up from cutting as the EPA cap was spinning without turning the jet. thank you!
Helpful, but hit a snag with removing the EPA cap. I thought I had heated it up enough, but when I pulled it off, it took the head of the jet screw with it. Perhaps I didn't heat it enough or perhaps I didn't give a straight enough pull? Either way, It is going to be very difficult to remove the stub of the screw, as access is very limited. I notice you did say there was a risk this might happen, but I would like to emphasis the point! Ralph.
Would be nice to mention which way the emulsion tube has to be put in.
Just bought one. Well detailed one Day I'll need this information but why the heat torch ??can't be undone without this method
No needle , seat and float inspection??? Also found tiny screens part of seat on certain carbs.
Great video that I found very usefull especially with alignment issue. One question- you did not mention the two paper gaskets that sit between the carb and the plastic housings. How does one keep them in line when putting everything together?
Thanks for this. Super helpful video that tells me everything I need to know 👌
A heat gun works just fine for removing the EPA cap. Took about 15 seconds on high, then a little more heat to soften the gunk clogging the screw head. The cap was not glowing. Is the heat gun safer around gasoline? Probably not.
Camera on tripod would be nice
Thanks for the video. Jeth Lee mentioned the EPA cap. Does it go back on? I don’t recall seeing you put that back on. I’m in need of the same repair but I would like to make sure I don’t screw anything up.
hello Jesse, one question ,what about the heat cap ? you didn't remount the EPA cap over the idle air mixture screw, on the rebuild?? other than that , your video was very informative. Thank you for posting!
The cap is there to keep you from "tampering" with the richness mixture settings of that screw underneath. Before these caps were "required" by the EPA all carburetors left them out in the open along with the idle screw and other adjustment screws on the carb. It doesn't need to be covered up again unless you don't trust yourself not to "tamper" with it like you already have
Now that you know how to take the cover off why bother trying to put the genie back into the bottle by putting it back on?. The next time the carb gums up you will need to take it off to clean that jet anyhow.
Great video. I'd already had my carb apart with little improvement - only thing I don't get is: how come your emulsion tube just fell out after you removed the jet? Mine seems pretty fixed (if it wasn't fixed the jet wouldn't unscrew would it?) and I've no idea how to dislodge it.
Nice video brother. Thank u so much. I have this same motor and I need to perform this. Great 🤙
Very well explained; thank you!
Hi. Are the carburettors for 2.3 and 2.0 identical apart from the main jet size? I ask as the price for the 2.3 is double so I’m considering modifying the jet if my old one won’t come out in good condition. Thanks
You forgot the EPA cap?
Great video, very informative, thank you for sharing!
Gracias ya pude aser lo gracias por esplicarlo muy bien
HI. DO YOU KNOW WHERE I CAN BUY THAT CARBURETOR. BECAUSE I CAN'T FIND IT ON EBAY AND PLACES THAT CAN BE CHEAPER
Great Video .. how you compare this one with the Mercury 5 HP ?
Dosta je dobro,samo što kamera nije uvijek dobro postavljena,tako da se ne vide neke vrlo važne stvari!
good morning, very good your video, i have a problem with the honda bf 2hp engine, i can't adjust the carburetor, bike works hard, doesn't regulate the air passage, i bought a new carburetor Similar to the original, but i have the same problem , can I give a hint?
where did you get that cart ?
Thanks for help
Very helpful. Thank you
I missed seeing you put the screw that you had to heat up to remove... sorry but I’m confused about that step... would appreciate a reply if you have a chance ... Thanks, ... John.... Ontario, Canada...
The screw wasnt heated, it was a cap keeping you from removing the screw
Great help!
Not sure all models have that heat-release screw, we sheared the top off from ours
What’s up with the EPA cap? Did anyone respond on pu ting it back on?
Does this particular engine have fuel pump? Thanks.
No
Buenas noches amigo,cómo puedo conseguir piezas para motor Evinrude 2.3
Why does my Honda 2.3 Outboard smoke a lot of white smoke, only runs with full choke?
It seems that it is getting petrol from the carburetor, but some air and a lot of crankcase oil from somewhere else!
Could it be a failed intake valve seal? I do not think that it is piston rings as it would run without full choke.
This little engine does not appear to have a separate cylinder head so it cannot be due to a gasket!
Have you checked the oil
Did you ever figure out your problem? If so I would love to hear what fixed it. I'm having the same issue.
Gloves bro, gloves. Nasty chemicals you're getting in your skin..
Thanks for the vid, great info. I have just bought one for my raft and I live at or above 5000' in elevation, do you know how to adjust the carb mixture for higher altitude?
Thanks for the help.
I think you have to get a finer main jet for your carburetor. And change it back to the stock one if you use it at sea level.