Installing the Insulation in the New House
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- This week, Sean discusses the steps he took to install layers of vapor barrier and insulation in the new house, to provide additional comfort and soundproofing.
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Thanks for sharing your journey!
Thanks for sharing! You guys must be in a warmer climate than we are in eastern Canada. Here we use a heavy plastic vapour barrier that has all openings sealed with tape or foam or acoustic sealant. We will test the house afterwards by depressurizing it with a special fan to see what the air leakage is. If I do a good job sealing everything it will hold well in the test and have very little air enter the house. I believe the largest heat loss is due to air leaks (like leaving a door or window open), fix that then insulate. I did my ceilings at R60 and walls and cathedrals at R40, but they are nearly 12" thick (double studded walls). My house is a very old post and beam house which I stripped to the frame and refinished interior. It actually had those vapour barrier faced batts in the attic. God bless you guys! Ever work with belgian workhorses?
We’re a bit south of you, in Illinois, so definitely warmer and less snowfall in Canada! We can still get pretty bitter for short periods in deep winter, but between the insulation, the heat stove, and the hydronic system, we have been very comfortable this winter. As you mentioned, drafts are a huge problem in many houses! By simply having a tight house, you can eliminate a lot of that cold air coming in. When we started our horsepowered farming, we actually started out with Belgians. We had a few over the years, but eventually downsized a bit and got into the Spotted drafts. We had to sell our team when we relocated here to start this build, and our next goal is to train up a team of big mustangs. We have a number of videos of our horses at work here on our channel. Just check out the playlists!
We have enjoyed watching your videos in building your ICF home and learning from it. What is your square footage and how much did it cost? We are looking at building a ICF home as well in Michigan.
Our total “builder” cost, which included the ICF blocks, digging and laying the basement foundation, installing the basement drains and hydronic system (~$6000), pouring the concrete, installing the interior stud walls, roof, windows, exterior doors, and building the side rooms-essentially making it a dried-in shell we could move in to, came to a total of $155,000. This cost is for 1840 sq ft conditioned living area, 240 sq ft side rooms, 240 sq ft larder/root cellar, and 180 sq ft greenhouse base. So this calculates out to roughly $62/sq ft for the dried-in. Considering national average is between about $130-$200 per square foot for a finished ICF home, we feel like we are coming in under average even with our additional finishing costs. Hope that helps.
@@ADifferentWay that is fantastic and incredibly helpful. Thank you!!!!
wouldnt you want to overlap the soffit vent shingle style? in case moisture condenses then it run out the end instead of dripping into the batting.
I thought the same thing. However, the instructions on the box were to overlap the way I did. It makes sense, because those baffles are designed to bring airflow from the soffit to the eve vent. If it does that properly, there should be no condensation. If you overlap the other way, you could get air leakage above the insulation which would cause the condensation. I hope that makes sense.