These repair vids helped me get my Toro single stage snow blower back into service during a decent winter storm; The rubber 'primer bulb' replacement was tricky as the rubber bulb appears to be much smaller than the plastic piece - I turned the rubber bulb inside out, placed it directly against the plastic piece (hold firmly together), then 'rolled' the 'lip' of the rubber into place; once the rubber lip is over the plastic, you just work the plastic until it sits correctly in the lip. That took maybe 1 minute vs fighting it in place with a metal tool.
Excellent video. Ordered the part from Amazon after watching the video once. My cost ended up being under $6.00, and twenty minutes of my time. The tip on using a small screwdriver to reinstall the primer bulb was greatly appreciated. Slow and gentle... For the last two years prior to the primer bulb actually disintegrating last week, this was impossible to start without starting fluid, or warming it up in the house. I joked to friends that my snowblower didn't like it cold outside (much like myself).. Apparently the primer bulb has been leaking for at least the past two years, as after this installation, I pushed the primer once, pulled the choke, and it started on the second pull. My next project will be replacing the paddles in the off season. Love saving money!
@CjtSgt That is the correct part. The primer bulb is a tight fit over the base. That can be kind of a pain sometimes. Heating the bulb in some hot tap water will make it a bit more pliable. Just be sure to dry it of before you install it so that you don't send any water into the carb. Good luck, -Mark
Apparently I have an older model - similar but a little different construction. However, the video provided the needed conceptual information to replace the Primer Bulb. A visual is worth thousands of words for me. Thanks so much!!
Very good and clear video. When my primer bulb disintegrated, I was able to use one of those vacuum wine gadgets (not the rubber cork/stopper, but the vacuum handle) to bring in the little fuel that was needed for starting. But with the video, I know now a more permanent solution.
Hi, Great video! here's a little help for some of the people that owns this machine that needs to replace the primer bulb; it works for me 1 - treat the bulb like you're replacing your bicycle tire. 2 - put bulb over white "thing". 3 - the part of the bulb that doesn't cover the white thing, slip a screwdriver into it and stretch it as far as it will go by leveraging against the white thing and HOLD IT with one hand. With other screwdriver do the same and it should pull over the white thing.
Thanks, eReplacementParts, for the great how-to video. I was able to replace the primer bulb on my Toro CCR2400 without any trouble thanks to your tutorial video. Without the video, this could have been a frustrating repair. Knowing that it is normal for the red cover to be difficult to remove and then finagle back into place for reassembly was a big help. Thanks!
I had gotten to the putting the shroud/cover back on and got hung up doing so. I had replaced the control cover. Once I took control cover off I was able to have control to replace the shroud/cover. Thanks for the video.
Nice video! My primer bulb broke off in the middle of a cleanup...so I couldn't restart the next morning. I went to Home Depot and bought a generic Briggs and Stratton primer bulb while ordering the correct one through Amazon. I could just hold the generic one over the primer opening to prime the engine. -Now I need to either install the new one or take it to a shop...this video makes me fixing it an option! Thanks!
This video even though well made is not the simple way of changing the primer bulb. Simple way: Remove the 3 screws as shown in this video. Reach into the open 4" square hole. Pull the primer hose off of the white stem primer tube. Pry the primer assembly out of the unit. Clean all loose particles around open primer hole. Put some spray grease on the new primer (white tangs) Push the new primer into place. Reach into the 4" square hole and attach the primer hose. Re-attach the front panel with the 3 screws you removed. You are finished. 1/2 hour total. 15 minutes if you are mechanical and have tools.
Excellent video. I replaced my primer bulb tonight. Primer bulb was a little tough to get centered once on the white piece but I eventually got it. Also, putting that plastic piece back on required some fancy positioning... but after all of that, it started on the firt pull. It was given to me by a neighbor last week. Just in time for some snow expected this weekend, Thanks!
Sam Snow is almost right on - treat it like a bicycle tire, meaning use tire irons instead of a screwdriver. I think a paint can opener would also be a less than perfect option, but still better than a screwdriver. Also, as a professional polymer engineer, keeping the snowblower away from ozone sources (any continuously running electrical equipment) will help prolong the bulb's life. Mine made it 20 years. Thanks Mark, great video. I did this, pulled the cord and away she went...
Thanks for posting this video. I just changed the primer bulb on my toro snow blower and I wouldn't have know how to change it and put everything back together without this video.
Even knowing how, these units are a pain in the ass to reassemble. The plastic body parts never want to fit back together. I've been fixing small engines for eons, and I still dread taking these apart. I think a lovely design feature would be an access panel in the center of the panel the gentleman removed in this video to provide access to the primer bulb/hose, switch wiring, carb etc without having to remove the whole panel. I'm sure that will never happen! Most manufacturers of non-commercial equipment aren't in the business of making life easy for the one performing service and repair to their products. After all, if they were easy to fix, fewer people would get frustrated and buy a new one. Same reason why you never get real world, helpful info regarding how to properly put your machine up for storage in the off season. I would say that 90% of all my business is people bringing in snowblowers in the early winter and mowers in the early summer that have gunked up carburettors as a result of not being properly stabilized at the end of the previous seasons usage. Incidentally, if you want to know the right way, here it is: 1. Ignore what grandpa used to tell you about running all the gas out of it and it'll be fine. It won't. I promise. If you have done and it was fine, consider yourself very lucky and/or in possession of a very unusual machine. 2. First, do your normal end of season oil change, lubing, blade sharpening etc per your machines service manual. If you don't have a service manual (not owners manual) go online and find one and print it out. 9 out of 10 times they are available free, unless you have something obnoxious like a John Deere. 3. Fill up the fuel tank with HIGH TEST gas. The highest you can get in your area of the world. Near me it's 93 octane; some Sunoco's carry 94 octane. 4.Fill er up and add fuel stabilizer. Common one goes by the name Stabil. Get the marine type if you can. If not, it's ok. Add it to the gas (mix ratio on bottle) but increase the mix ratio by a factor of 2. In other words, double the amount it tells you to use. Mix up the gas and stabilizer by moving machine vigorously. Actually, if you know how much gas your machine takes, add the stabilizer first, then pour gas in. It will pretty well mix itself that way. Either way, make sure it's mixed up. 5. Here's the critical step many people miss. Start and run the machine. I'll repeat it with gusto: START AND RUN THE MACHINE!! What you are doing is running the stabilized gas all through the fuel system, from the fuel lines, to the filter, pump (in you have one) and into the carburetor. Any carburetor is a maze of tiny holes and passages through which fuel passes. If you don't get stabilized fuel into all of these micro holes, all of your efforts is for naught. Anywhere there is raw, untreated fuel, there is a good chance that over the course of the off-season, the fuel will evaporate out of these little passageways, leaving behind either a thick gooey sludge, a hard yellow-brown varnish type substance, or both. All it takes for the machine to not start next season is for one of these little passages to be clogged up with the aforementioned crap. So, take it from me. I've spent many a well-paid hour cleaning out nasty carbs that would have been absolutely fine but for a bit of preventative maintenance the previous season. In case you are wondering why I would encourage people to perform maintenance that will effectively take business away from me, rest assured that no matter how hard I try, there will always be an unlimited supply of people that just don't do it, thereby keeping me busy from now to infinity. Good luck and thanks for reading!
The technique also works with the smaller Toro snowblower which is a little bit easier to work on. I was able to replace the bulb without removing the hose. To make the bulb go on easier, put it in boiling water for a minute to soften it up.
Thanks for putting this video on youtube.. I need to replace my promer bulb. JUST ordered a replacement. SHOULD have ordered the white piece as well as I think it maybe brittle (from age) and break...
Thanks.....great video; great job; you're a good teacher. I have this exact snowblower and this exact problem so this video is incredibly useful. thanks again!!!
I would just like to say thank you for the videos, they are really informative, easy to understand and listen to, you explain everything in detail and make this easy. thanks you very much
@KingOfTheClutch We used a CCR3000 in this video. The CCR2000 and the CCR3000 are nearly identical machines however. The primer bulb on your 2000 would be the same one shown in the video. It is part number 66-7460. I hope this helps and thanks for watching our videos! -Mark
Just a thought... when you replace the new primer bulb over the primer body you might want to heat up the new bulb with a hair dryer to make it a little more pliable... what a joy it was replacing a $1.00 part!! lol... I'm thinking gas with "ethanol" causes the rubber primer to deteriorate faster... same thing happened with a weed wacker. I now get "ethanol free" gas at my local marina for my small engines...
This video is vary helpfull I just got the same blower it was at the curb with a sign free needs work. The primer bulb is completely gone I'm hoping thats the only thing wrong with it
NIce instructional video. Thanks a ton, saved me a lot of time as I was starting to remove the top cover! Also glad to know I got the correct primer bulb because it looked too small as others have said.
This looks like a very straightforward fix. I found the primer bulb at my local shop for under 3 bucks and I'm raring to go. I'm having some difficulty, however, with the recessed hex screws that hold the face plate in place. I can't seem to find a socket that both fits in the recess and is the right size for the screws. Are they U.S. or metric screws? Any thoughts would be much appreciated? Update: Answered my own question. The hex screws are 5/16". The rest of the repair went like a breeze. Thanks for the video; it was a big help.
great vid....now can do it without undue stress and save $40 !!! TY monster storm coming this weekend.My Toro was purchased in 1997 and purring like a kitten. Bought the newer model 12 lbs heavier but also excellent.these units are kodiak bears! TY I'm old! and don't even want to do this anymore. :)
Thanks. Perfect for my machine exactly. I hope I get that bulb on with the screwdriver. I noticed a cut in the middle of the screwdriver installation segment. Maybe not quite that easy? I have tried a couple times but not with a small screwdriver.
Do you have a video that would help me out with a gas leak on the right side of my blower? I have a Toro CCR 3650 Model 38445. I heard there may be a related recall.
I am having trouble with the pull cord it snaps back, when it doesn't pull back the snowblower start for about 5 seconds then turns off Toro CCR powerlight 3 hp any thoughts, it worked fine last year. Thank you
Thanks that was a big help. But I need some help. On my Murray with a briggs carb there are two tubes for hoses. On the left side the hose from the primer bulb is attached and that port flows through the welch plug. On the right side of the carb there is another tube for a hose that flows through the emulsion tube but no hose to be found. Should there be one?Or, should the primer bulb hose be attached to the emulsion tube? Thank you
Is that the CCR2000 single Stage? I know it's got the same primer as mine, and the bulb split right on the side fold, can I get a part number so I can order it from you?
If this just happened and your in the middle of your season... don't fret, just get a rubber tube about 16" long, place it over the little hole in the center of the white plastic base and blow... she'll purr like a kitten. ;)
I watch the video... do you know why my primer bulb may not be feeding fuel into the engine.. the fuel cutoff is not engaged. when i push the bulb i only hear air.. no fuel. Gas is filled
+Nicholas Dumas According to information I can get on your tool, Them M-28 is listed with model number 0726-20. The brush assembly for this model is located at the following link:www.ereplacementparts.com/carbon-brush-kit-p-721090.html We have many of these in stock and can easily get the assembly out to you.
I should of found this sooner. I went the other way and removed the top cover. The worst part is getting that rubber piece to fit that white plastic piece, Bold move on your part to use that sharp screw driver.
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These repair vids helped me get my Toro single stage snow blower back into service during a decent winter storm;
The rubber 'primer bulb' replacement was tricky as the rubber bulb appears to be much smaller than the plastic piece - I turned the rubber bulb inside out, placed it directly against the plastic piece (hold firmly together), then 'rolled' the 'lip' of the rubber into place; once the rubber lip is over the plastic, you just work the plastic until it sits correctly in the lip. That took maybe 1 minute vs fighting it in place with a metal tool.
Excellent video. Ordered the part from Amazon after watching the video once. My cost ended up being under $6.00, and twenty minutes of my time. The tip on using a small screwdriver to reinstall the primer bulb was greatly appreciated. Slow and gentle...
For the last two years prior to the primer bulb actually disintegrating last week, this was impossible to start without starting fluid, or warming it up in the house. I joked to friends that my snowblower didn't like it cold outside (much like myself).. Apparently the primer bulb has been leaking for at least the past two years, as after this installation, I pushed the primer once, pulled the choke, and it started on the second pull. My next project will be replacing the paddles in the off season. Love saving money!
@CjtSgt That is the correct part. The primer bulb is a tight fit over the base. That can be kind of a pain sometimes. Heating the bulb in some hot tap water will make it a bit more pliable. Just be sure to dry it of before you install it so that you don't send any water into the carb.
Good luck,
-Mark
Apparently I have an older model - similar but a little different construction. However, the video provided the needed conceptual information to replace the Primer Bulb. A visual is worth thousands of words for me. Thanks so much!!
This was VERY HELPFUL. Thank you for making this video. Guys like you are saving the rest of us a ton of money.
Very good and clear video. When my primer bulb disintegrated, I was able to use one of those vacuum wine gadgets (not the rubber cork/stopper, but the vacuum handle) to bring in the little fuel that was needed for starting. But with the video, I know now a more permanent solution.
Hi,
Great video! here's a little help for some of the people that owns this machine that needs to replace the primer bulb; it works for me
1 - treat the bulb like you're replacing your bicycle tire.
2 - put bulb over white "thing".
3 - the part of the bulb that doesn't cover the white thing, slip a screwdriver into it and stretch it
as far as it will go by leveraging against the white thing and HOLD IT with one hand. With other screwdriver do the same and it should pull over the white thing.
Thanks, eReplacementParts, for the great how-to video. I was able to replace the primer bulb on my Toro CCR2400 without any trouble thanks to your tutorial video. Without the video, this could have been a frustrating repair. Knowing that it is normal for the red cover to be difficult to remove and then finagle back into place for reassembly was a big help. Thanks!
I had my primer bulb break right before a 10” snow storm. Your video made replacing it much easier. Thanks.
I had gotten to the putting the shroud/cover back on and got hung up doing so. I had replaced the control cover. Once I took control cover off I was able to have control to replace the shroud/cover. Thanks for the video.
Nice video! My primer bulb broke off in the middle of a cleanup...so I couldn't restart the next morning. I went to Home Depot and bought a generic Briggs and Stratton primer bulb while ordering the correct one through Amazon. I could just hold the generic one over the primer opening to prime the engine. -Now I need to either install the new one or take it to a shop...this video makes me fixing it an option! Thanks!
This video even though well made is not the simple way of changing the primer bulb. Simple way: Remove the 3 screws as shown in this video. Reach into the open 4" square hole. Pull the primer hose off of the white stem primer tube. Pry the primer assembly out of the unit. Clean all loose particles around open primer hole. Put some spray grease on the new primer (white tangs) Push the new primer into place. Reach into the 4" square hole and attach the primer hose. Re-attach the front panel with the 3 screws you removed. You are finished. 1/2 hour total. 15 minutes if you are mechanical and have tools.
This video deserve to be there for long time. Many thanks Mark.
Excellent video. I replaced my primer bulb tonight. Primer bulb was a little tough to get centered once on the white piece but I eventually got it. Also, putting that plastic piece back on required some fancy positioning... but after all of that, it started on the firt pull. It was given to me by a neighbor last week. Just in time for some snow expected this weekend, Thanks!
Sam Snow is almost right on - treat it like a bicycle tire, meaning use tire irons instead of a screwdriver. I think a paint can opener would also be a less than perfect option, but still better than a screwdriver.
Also, as a professional polymer engineer, keeping the snowblower away from ozone sources (any continuously running electrical equipment) will help prolong the bulb's life. Mine made it 20 years.
Thanks Mark, great video. I did this, pulled the cord and away she went...
Thanks for the help! We have a storm coming and my pump shattered. It's good to go now thanks to you.
Thanks for posting this video. I just changed the primer bulb on my toro snow blower and I wouldn't have know how to change it and put everything back together without this video.
Even knowing how, these units are a pain in the ass to reassemble. The plastic body parts never want to fit back together. I've been fixing small engines for eons, and I still dread taking these apart. I think a lovely design feature would be an access panel in the center of the panel the gentleman removed in this video to provide access to the primer bulb/hose, switch wiring, carb etc without having to remove the whole panel. I'm sure that will never happen! Most manufacturers of non-commercial equipment aren't in the business of making life easy for the one performing service and repair to their products. After all, if they were easy to fix, fewer people would get frustrated and buy a new one. Same reason why you never get real world, helpful info regarding how to properly put your machine up for storage in the off season. I would say that 90% of all my business is people bringing in snowblowers in the early winter and mowers in the early summer that have gunked up carburettors as a result of not being properly stabilized at the end of the previous seasons usage.
Incidentally, if you want to know the right way, here it is:
1. Ignore what grandpa used to tell you about running all the gas out of it and it'll be fine. It won't. I promise. If you have done and it was fine, consider yourself very lucky and/or in possession of a very unusual machine.
2. First, do your normal end of season oil change, lubing, blade sharpening etc per your machines service manual. If you don't have a service manual (not owners manual) go online and find one and print it out. 9 out of 10 times they are available free, unless you have something obnoxious like a John Deere.
3. Fill up the fuel tank with HIGH TEST gas. The highest you can get in your area of the world. Near me it's 93 octane; some Sunoco's carry 94 octane.
4.Fill er up and add fuel stabilizer. Common one goes by the name Stabil. Get the marine type if you can. If not, it's ok. Add it to the gas (mix ratio on bottle) but increase the mix ratio by a factor of 2. In other words, double the amount it tells you to use. Mix up the gas and stabilizer by moving machine vigorously. Actually, if you know how much gas your machine takes, add the stabilizer first, then pour gas in. It will pretty well mix itself that way. Either way, make sure it's mixed up.
5. Here's the critical step many people miss. Start and run the machine. I'll repeat it with gusto: START AND RUN THE MACHINE!! What you are doing is running the stabilized gas all through the fuel system, from the fuel lines, to the filter, pump (in you have one) and into the carburetor. Any carburetor is a maze of tiny holes and passages through which fuel passes. If you don't get stabilized fuel into all of these micro holes, all of your efforts is for naught. Anywhere there is raw, untreated fuel, there is a good chance that over the course of the off-season, the fuel will evaporate out of these little passageways, leaving behind either a thick gooey sludge, a hard yellow-brown varnish type substance, or both. All it takes for the machine to not start next season is for one of these little passages to be clogged up with the aforementioned crap.
So, take it from me. I've spent many a well-paid hour cleaning out nasty carbs that would have been absolutely fine but for a bit of preventative maintenance the previous season. In case you are wondering why I would encourage people to perform maintenance that will effectively take business away from me, rest assured that no matter how hard I try, there will always be an unlimited supply of people that just don't do it, thereby keeping me busy from now to infinity.
Good luck and thanks for reading!
+revmpandora thats because people are lazy and just want to use it and put it away expecting it to perform flawlessly next time they need it.
Yup.
I could not have made the repair without this video. Thanks!
The technique also works with the smaller Toro snowblower which is a little bit easier to work on. I was able to replace the bulb without removing the hose. To make the bulb go on easier, put it in boiling water for a minute to soften it up.
You're both very welcome. Thanks for the great feedback.
We have the same Year and model as this one and we've only had to replace the primer bulb once in 25 years. They're really good snowthrowers
Thanks for the demo. I was able to repair my unit at a great cost savings!!!
Thanks for putting this video on youtube.. I need to replace my promer bulb. JUST ordered a replacement. SHOULD have ordered the white piece as well as I think it maybe brittle (from age) and break...
Thank you Mark. You made the steps simple to follow.
Thanks.....great video; great job; you're a good teacher. I have this exact snowblower and this exact problem so this video is incredibly useful. thanks again!!!
+wfharty3 -- Me. too. Same snowblower, same issue. Ready to tackle this.
Excellent demonstration / instructions. Thank you.
I would just like to say thank you for the videos, they are really informative, easy to understand and listen to, you explain everything in detail and make this easy.
thanks you very much
Thanks...I have been using a hand pump for an exercise ball to prime my snow blower. Now that i know how to replace it, I'll order the primer bulb:)
@KingOfTheClutch We used a CCR3000 in this video. The CCR2000 and the CCR3000 are nearly identical machines however. The primer bulb on your 2000 would be the same one shown in the video. It is part number 66-7460. I hope this helps and thanks for watching our videos!
-Mark
Great tips. My Toro snowblower is a slightly different model, but everything was about the same. Thank you so much!
THIS VIDEO WAS VERY HELPFUL. THANKS
Thanks a lot. This is the best and i followed and did exactly that and i got my jib done. I cannot thank you enough...
Outstanding! Very helpful! Keep up the good work, sir!
Excellent!!!! Need to do tomorrow once I buy the bulb
great video. I have the same snowblower and know what to expect now.
Thanks for making this...I was sure I had the wrong part, but after this view I have everything running like it should be again
Just did it, and it was simple. Thanks for the video.
I have to do this later today and this video will definitely help. Thanks.
Thank you. Just what I needed!
Thank you so much for sharing this video. Very helpful.
Just a thought... when you replace the new primer bulb over the primer body you might want to heat up the new bulb with a hair dryer to make it a little more pliable... what a joy it was replacing a $1.00 part!! lol... I'm thinking gas with "ethanol" causes the rubber primer to deteriorate faster... same thing happened with a weed wacker. I now get "ethanol free" gas at my local marina for my small engines...
This video is vary helpfull I just got the same blower it was at the curb with a sign free needs work. The primer bulb is completely gone I'm hoping thats the only thing wrong with it
NIce instructional video. Thanks a ton, saved me a lot of time as I was starting to remove the top cover! Also glad to know I got the correct primer bulb because it looked too small as others have said.
Nicely done. Thank you.
This looks like a very straightforward fix. I found the primer bulb at my local shop for under 3 bucks and I'm raring to go. I'm having some difficulty, however, with the recessed hex screws that hold the face plate in place. I can't seem to find a socket that both fits in the recess and is the right size for the screws. Are they U.S. or metric screws? Any thoughts would be much appreciated?
Update: Answered my own question. The hex screws are 5/16". The rest of the repair went like a breeze. Thanks for the video; it was a big help.
Great video! Very Helpful!
This video was extremely helpful! Thank you for putting it up! Any chance of a video on how to fix a loose choke on the same model snowblower?
Very instructive. Thank you.
Thank You, successful repair !
Good video. I have to do a primer bulb and replace the fuel lines on a 25 yr old Toro 2 cycle. The gas lines are leaking the customer says, all over.
you make it look easy. nice job.
great vid....now can do it without undue stress and save $40 !!! TY monster storm coming this weekend.My Toro was purchased in 1997 and purring like a kitten. Bought the newer model 12 lbs heavier but also excellent.these units are kodiak bears! TY I'm old! and don't even want to do this anymore. :)
Made it look simple.Thank you
Thanks. Perfect for my machine exactly. I hope I get that bulb on with the screwdriver. I noticed a cut in the middle of the screwdriver installation segment. Maybe not quite that easy? I have tried a couple times but not with a small screwdriver.
fiddler2u Did you have any success with this?
try some silicone spray to make it slip on.
Right on the money! Well done!
Perfect instructions, very helpful
On the toro with the blue handle chute adjuster could you explain how to replace thr pull cord....mine broke .Thanks.
Do you have a video that would help me out with a gas leak on the right side of my blower? I have a Toro CCR 3650 Model 38445. I heard there may be a related recall.
I am having trouble with the pull cord it snaps back, when it doesn't pull back the snowblower start for about 5 seconds then turns off Toro CCR powerlight 3 hp any thoughts, it worked fine last year. Thank you
Mine just cracked I have to blow into the primer and it starts right up.Thanks for the video.
Great video close-ups and descriptive process! Thanks eReplacementParts.com! \m/
thanks very informative . happy i found this video!
Thanks that was a big help. But I need some help. On my Murray with a briggs carb there are two tubes for hoses. On the left side the hose from the primer bulb is attached and that port flows through the welch plug. On the right side of the carb there is another tube for a hose that flows through the emulsion tube but no hose to be found. Should there be one?Or, should the primer bulb hose be attached to the emulsion tube? Thank you
Dino Marchesini What model number do you have?
Video was awesome!
This was a life saver!!
Thanks. Looks manageable.
Nice video thanks
Is that the CCR2000 single Stage? I know it's got the same primer as mine, and the bulb split right on the side fold, can I get a part number so I can order it from you?
It was very easy because of the video. I agree with jcollet31 to turn the bulb inside out before putting it on the primer. Thanks for the post.
Very Helpful
great video thank you..
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching, everybody.
How about changing the primer bulb on a two stage Toto 828?
enjoyed it,thanks for the tips.
@marc8283 Thanks so much. Glad to be of help!
extremely helpful!!
Thanks very much!
Where do I get the cover?
Thank you
very helpful!
If this just happened and your in the middle of your season... don't fret, just get a rubber tube about 16" long, place it over the little hole in the center of the white plastic base and blow... she'll purr like a kitten. ;)
+ringtrap exactly what I did today when test running my new to me CCR powerlite!
I watch the video... do you know why my primer bulb may not be feeding fuel into the engine.. the fuel cutoff is not engaged. when i push the bulb i only hear air.. no fuel. Gas is filled
+Nicholas Dumas According to information I can get on your tool, Them M-28 is listed with model number 0726-20. The brush assembly for this model is located at the following link:www.ereplacementparts.com/carbon-brush-kit-p-721090.html We have many of these in stock and can easily get the assembly out to you.
I should of found this sooner. I went the other way and removed the top cover. The worst part is getting that rubber piece to fit that white plastic piece, Bold move on your part to use that sharp screw driver.
Thanks!!!!
Very helpful. Thanks for posting.
Very helpful - Thanks for sharing.