Zack, by far the best video out there for re-building the value. Even a list of tools needed in the description. Experience always pays, coming from 35 year self employed contractor to another. Thank you 🙏
Zack I have 46 years at the plumbing trade the zipseat tool wish it was around years ago its the only way to go have used it many times already Great Job well informed .
I wish I could shake your hand. This tool is amazing. Buy it. I’ve used the old hand tools with tremendous frustration. Coupled with this step by step video it made short order of the job. Well done sir.
My Temptrol® shower valve suddenly only delivers all hot or all cold water. What’s wrong? ANSWER: A good first step is to open the valve to HOT position, remove the handle, and sharply tap the end of the spindle with a small hammer. WORKS!! In this case, the pressure-balancing piston that moves inside the main TA-10 spindle has become jammed with some sort of debris, like minerals or pieces of dirt or solder.
Great video and great tool. Honestly, I took your endorsement with a grain of salt since it is your product, but after attempting to remove the seats with the tools provided by Symmons and feeling that we were close to stripping them, we used this and they came out exactly as easily as advertised. Thank you!
This was very thorough demonstration. However, since it’s not in an actually setting there are things I’ve watched on other videos. Plug or cover the drain in case anything drops, and something or some way to catch the water from any excess water from ground down behind the wall. But this was very reassuring that I will be capable of doing it myself, because of it.
This is a fantastic video. I have a 1983-vintage Symmons shower/tub valve much like the one you are doing here. It has been, by and large, completely trouble free all this time. However, after 41 years, it's starting to require really tight turning closed to not drip. Thus, I am considering a rebuild. I obtained the special tool with the easy-out feature which I'm told is needed on the older valves such as mine. At some point, I'm going to go after it. This video is extremely helpful. It's so old that I figure if I mess it up, I'll just rip the whole thing out and start fresh, but I want to at least give this a try first. Thanks for the post.
As many others wrote, THANK YOU for taking the time to go step by step through this process! Many simply skim over everything and that doesn't help. I'm a home owner and just bought the Symmons tool, but you might see my order for the extractor. Thank you again! Phenomenal video!
Mines hot water. I’ll keep you posted. Got a s-86-2 temporal '76 tub and shower valve from the 80s looking like it’s fresh off the shelves of circuit city.
Does your thumbs hide articles of project materials and sting at first water spray when the valve finally stops leaking??? Thanks. Good info and music jams.
A bit more a PITA than I was hoping. I was looking into how to pull it apart so I don't have any issues after soldering the pipes to the valve. Might just go with the wet rag trick and try not to put too much heat into the valve. At the same time it can't hurt to by a set of tools so I can work on it down the road and get some practice pulling it apart. EDIT: Ended up getting a T35C tool set for 23 bucks. Wasn't too bad to pull apart, needed a paperclip to get the diverter spindle out. Now I don't need to be that careful about how much heat I put into the valve body when it comes time to solder. Another plus, I can add more lube to the threads an o rings so if I ever need to pull it apart again, it shouldn't be seized up.
Great video. I was going to replace the spindle assembly on our shower and watched your video for information on how to do it. I was getting luke warm water when opened to full hot. When you explained the stop nut used to limit the water temp near the end of the video, I went to my valve, loosened the stop nut, turned the handle to hot beyond the spot it was stopping. I heard something move inside the spindle assembly and the hot water started flowing again. I tightened the stop nut again with the handle at two o'clock and am back in business. This is a second bathroom that we hardly ever use. I heard that the Symmons Spindle assembly has this problem if it goes unused for some time. I tried to turn it on and off every several weeks but still had the problem as I described. Thanks again for a video well done.
Excellent video. I really would like to get my hands on those extractor tools. Just to Clarify, when you installed the spindle, you had it half open. Others say close all the way. I assume it matters one way or another.
What if the valve is really really hard to turn? Got it open as much as I could but the cap came out without the spindle. I cannot remove the spindle. Any thoughts? The valve was always hard to turn. Maybe the install was done incorrectly and faucet wasn't turned to open.
Hello Yes, it’s normal to have some water dripping down out of your tub spout while the diverter is switched to shower and the valve is on. It is not a positive stop .
It doesn’t seem my integral stops are working they are shut off and water is still leaking through. Can I change the seats like this or should I shut the water to the building off?
One of my residents rooms is barely getting hot water. I have tried adjusting the hot water temperature all the way with no luck. Does anyone know if changing the cartridge would fix my hot water issue. I have no issues in any other apartment. Even the adjacent ones are just fine. It’s only one apartment thats doing that. It has the symmons temptrol model c shower valve. The issue is only the shower!
I did this the other night and my spindle was really hard to remove. It was spinning freely but wouldn’t come out. I had to rig up a pry bar and wood blocks with vice grips to leverage it out (I was replacing it anyway). Once it popped out it came out with the cold seat stuck to it. I removed the hot seat and replaced the lot of it and it’s working fine now. I don’t get it.
If you’re talking about the small screw on the cap or bonnet nut, it’s used to set the temperature. You shut your valve off with the handle facing straight up, then turn the handle counterclockwise until it reaches 2 o’clock. Tighten the small screw into the bonnet nut until it stops. That will prevent the handle from turning counterclockwise any further and sets the temperature at approximately 120 degrees. If you’re talking about the screw at the bottom of the spindle, that holds the washer onto the spindle. The screw at the top of the spindle, is used to hold the handle on Hope this helps .
The tool was not created to remove stripped seats, however, we have had great success in doing so. Depending on how stripped the seat is, you can usually get the bit to catch a notch even slightly when you fit it in and start spinning it by hand. Once you find a spot, it wants to lock into take a hammer and tap it in firmly. I bits are hardened steel with very sharp edges. That’ll make it to own notches in the soft brass seats when doing this properly. Once you tap it in without removing it, put your impact gun back, connected to the bit. Put it in reverse, lean into it, and squeeze the trigger slowly until you have it completely engaged. Let the impact gun wrap continuously until it breaks the seat free and spins it out. The key is not to give up. Once it starts wrapping, this can take place for up to two minutes before it breaks free. videotape your efforts so we can see the great success you have. This takes a little finesse. Hope this helps Good luck.
You can use a 12 point deep well 3/4" or 19mm socket, stick it onto the Symmons seat removal tool and use an impact that way. A 12 point 3/4 socket will fit on both sides of the T35C removal tool, so you can remove both old and new seats that way. May not be better than that 300 dollar removal kit, it's certainly less compact, and I'd be willing to bet the tolerances on it are better, at least I would hope they are for that price. The socket would probably end up chowdering up the removal tool doing this in the long run, probably would be a good idea to buy two sets and use one exclusively for old and the other for new valves. Still, two tool sets and a 5-10 dollar socket is a hell of a lot cheaper than the Zipseat tool.
Hey there, thanks for your comment. During the several years of testing, our first prototype was actually made with the Symmons tool itself. It failed and caused more damage than help in several situations. Depending on the one you get, the tolerances are all over the place. Meaning, some are looser fitting than others. We’ve come across some that won’t even fit in the valve seats at all. That’s why our tool has the tightest, tolerances and sharpest edges, which has been able to take out even stripped seats even though the tool wasn’t made for that. That’s the first critical issue. The second one is the fact that the soft cheaper metal that the tool is made of quickly rounds the edges when putting torque to it with an impact gun and strips the seats. The Symmons hand-tools are designed to be used by hand power only. Zip Seat Extractor Tools are made with hardened steel and impact quality. We’ve had fantastic success, removing the seats WITHOUT stripping them. Our tool was sent to Symmons corporation where they did their own testing in their engineering department for several months. They reported fantastic results as well. They do NOT recommend using their hand tool with any kind of power tool… Never mind an impact gun. The average 18 V - 3/8 drive impact gun, which is what we recommend to use with the Zip Seat Extractor, provides up to 600 ft-lbs of nut-busting torque which is key to breaking the frozen seats free. Just like anything… Without the right tool for the job your chances of success are stacked against you. The problem with this whole process is you only get one shot, in most cases to successfully remove the seats without damaging them. Once you’ve stripped them out it can be game over. Back to replacing the valve along with all the restoration work and cost to the shower walls etc. Our tool is not $30 because it’s not a $30 tool. 1 job pays for the Zip Seat Extractor tool set. It’ll work as good on the 50th valve as it did on the first one. After years of research, and re-designing the tool over and over again we wanted to bring to the market, the best solution and highest quality tool. We stand behind it with a lifetime warranty. Once it saves your but the first time, you’ll never say…”I wish I didn’t spend that money.“ We hear it all the time. So, if you like good tools that work, and are made right here in the USA, try this Zip Seat Extractor, and have peace of mind and confidence on your next Symmons TempTrol Valve rebuild.
@@zipseatextractor actually, I found it on that zip seat extractor site. I was 200 dollars. Way to much for a home owner diyer. I would rent it for 25.00 for a one time use. Unfortunate that it is so expensive. If I was a plumber it would just be part of my tools. I was thinking it would cost 29.99 from my local plumbing supply store.
Zack, by far the best video out there for re-building the value. Even a list of tools needed in the description. Experience always pays, coming from 35 year self employed contractor to another.
Thank you 🙏
Zack I have 46 years at the plumbing trade the zipseat tool wish it was around years ago its the only way to go have used it many times already Great Job well informed .
I wish I could shake your hand. This tool is amazing. Buy it. I’ve used the old hand tools with tremendous frustration. Coupled with this step by step video it made short order of the job. Well done sir.
Consider it shaken!🤙Glad to help.
God Bless!
I've watched many videos on TH-cam and you by far are the best explainer plus every step was precise. Thx for a excellent video!
Thanks so much for the feedback!
This is the BEST how to of all I have watched and used! Thank you for all the details and explanations!
My Temptrol® shower valve suddenly only delivers all hot or all cold water. What’s wrong?
ANSWER:
A good first step is to open the valve to HOT position, remove the handle, and sharply tap the end of the spindle with a small hammer. WORKS!!
In this case, the pressure-balancing piston that moves inside the main TA-10 spindle has become jammed with some sort of debris, like minerals or pieces of dirt or solder.
Wow, SUCH a great video. Literally one of the best instructional videos I've ever watched. Thank you.
Great video and great tool. Honestly, I took your endorsement with a grain of salt since it is your product, but after attempting to remove the seats with the tools provided by Symmons and feeling that we were close to stripping them, we used this and they came out exactly as easily as advertised. Thank you!
Great explanation on changing the valve
Thank you some much. I was looking and looking, and I couldn’t find a video until finally, I came across yours.
Thank you for taking the time to make an excellent demonstration video - very thorough.
This was very thorough demonstration. However, since it’s not in an actually setting there are things I’ve watched on other videos. Plug or cover the drain in case anything drops, and something or some way to catch the water from any excess water from ground down behind the wall. But this was very reassuring that I will be capable of doing it myself, because of it.
This is a fantastic video. I have a 1983-vintage Symmons shower/tub valve much like the one you are doing here. It has been, by and large, completely trouble free all this time. However, after 41 years, it's starting to require really tight turning closed to not drip. Thus, I am considering a rebuild. I obtained the special tool with the easy-out feature which I'm told is needed on the older valves such as mine. At some point, I'm going to go after it. This video is extremely helpful. It's so old that I figure if I mess it up, I'll just rip the whole thing out and start fresh, but I want to at least give this a try first. Thanks for the post.
Make sure you grab the Zip Seat Extractor! Sounds like you’re going to need it for this job.
I can't put into words how good your video is! I know I can tackle my replacement!!
Thanks for the quick tutorial. This saved us a bunch of time and money.
Our pleasure!
As many others wrote, THANK YOU for taking the time to go step by step through this process! Many simply skim over everything and that doesn't help.
I'm a home owner and just bought the Symmons tool, but you might see my order for the extractor. Thank you again! Phenomenal video!
Mines hot water. I’ll keep you posted. Got a s-86-2 temporal '76 tub and shower valve from the 80s looking like it’s fresh off the shelves of circuit city.
Does your thumbs hide articles of project materials and sting at first water spray when the valve finally stops leaking??? Thanks. Good info and music jams.
THANK YOU I KNOW IT TAKES A LOT TO DO THIS!
Yay!!! Its the Tool Time I need today!!!
Had to replace my valve watched your video
Amazing thank u
U probably saved me 250.00 with a plumber
Great video
A bit more a PITA than I was hoping. I was looking into how to pull it apart so I don't have any issues after soldering the pipes to the valve. Might just go with the wet rag trick and try not to put too much heat into the valve. At the same time it can't hurt to by a set of tools so I can work on it down the road and get some practice pulling it apart.
EDIT: Ended up getting a T35C tool set for 23 bucks. Wasn't too bad to pull apart, needed a paperclip to get the diverter spindle out. Now I don't need to be that careful about how much heat I put into the valve body when it comes time to solder. Another plus, I can add more lube to the threads an o rings so if I ever need to pull it apart again, it shouldn't be seized up.
Very interesting and explained everything clearly step by step congratulations you have a lot experience bro.
NM 1980 something! :-) Congrats & blessings.
Thanks a lot! This video deserves lots of likes
Great video. I was going to replace the spindle assembly on our shower and watched your video for information on how to do it. I was getting luke warm water when opened to full hot. When you explained the stop nut used to limit the water temp near the end of the video, I went to my valve, loosened the stop nut, turned the handle to hot beyond the spot it was stopping. I heard something move inside the spindle assembly and the hot water started flowing again. I tightened the stop nut again with the handle at two o'clock and am back in business. This is a second bathroom that we hardly ever use. I heard that the Symmons Spindle assembly has this problem if it goes unused for some time. I tried to turn it on and off every several weeks but still had the problem as I described. Thanks again for a video well done.
A++++ video. Very informative! Thank you!
Thanks that was well done.
Excellent video. I really would like to get my hands on those extractor tools. Just to Clarify, when you installed the spindle, you had it half open. Others say close all the way. I assume it matters one way or another.
Awesome video man!!
Appreciate it!
Nice job!
Thanks, this was very helpful!
Excellent video but what are the name of the sockets that you were using the two dark ones?
The Zip Seat Extractor. Available zipseat.pro or Amazon
Straight up. No BS!
Watched many videos, this is best by far ! 12/29/22 9 pm
Where are you? Found the good tools please
What if the valve is really really hard to turn? Got it open as much as I could but the cap came out without the spindle. I cannot remove the spindle. Any thoughts? The valve was always hard to turn. Maybe the install was done incorrectly and faucet wasn't turned to open.
Great video
Thank you so much for your video! I did everything you showed but still have some water flow steady from the tub spicket still. Is this normal?
Hello
Yes, it’s normal to have some water dripping down out of your tub spout while the diverter is switched to shower and the valve is on. It is not a positive stop .
It doesn’t seem my integral stops are working they are shut off and water is still leaking through. Can I change the seats like this or should I shut the water to the building off?
You need to shut off the water before replacing the seats. I would shut off the water main if the integral stops don’t work.
Hope that helps
One of my residents rooms is barely getting hot water. I have tried adjusting the hot water temperature all the way with no luck. Does anyone know if changing the cartridge would fix my hot water issue. I have no issues in any other apartment. Even the adjacent ones are just fine. It’s only one apartment thats doing that. It has the symmons temptrol model c shower valve. The issue is only the shower!
Great vid! Thank you!
Is there a limit control to keep the temps form getting to hot, With this Symmons valve?
Yes, there’s a set screw right in the bonnet nut that you tighten down once you turn your handle to where you want to stop
I did this the other night and my spindle was really hard to remove. It was spinning freely but wouldn’t come out. I had to rig up a pry bar and wood blocks with vice grips to leverage it out (I was replacing it anyway). Once it popped out it came out with the cold seat stuck to it. I removed the hot seat and replaced the lot of it and it’s working fine now. I don’t get it.
Thank you very much.
Thanks bud. Big help.
what is function the little screw on the stem for?
If you’re talking about the small screw on the cap or bonnet nut, it’s used to set the temperature. You shut your valve off with the handle facing straight up, then turn the handle counterclockwise until it reaches 2 o’clock. Tighten the small screw into the bonnet nut until it stops. That will prevent the handle from turning counterclockwise any further and sets the temperature at approximately 120 degrees.
If you’re talking about the screw at the bottom of the spindle, that holds the washer onto the spindle. The screw at the top of the spindle, is used to hold the handle on
Hope this helps .
Than you amigo👍🏼
Will that zip seat work if the valve is already stripped?
The tool was not created to remove stripped seats, however, we have had great success in doing so. Depending on how stripped the seat is, you can usually get the bit to catch a notch even slightly when you fit it in and start spinning it by hand. Once you find a spot, it wants to lock into take a hammer and tap it in firmly. I bits are hardened steel with very sharp edges. That’ll make it to own notches in the soft brass seats when doing this properly. Once you tap it in without removing it, put your impact gun back, connected to the bit. Put it in reverse, lean into it, and squeeze the trigger slowly until you have it completely engaged. Let the impact gun wrap continuously until it breaks the seat free and spins it out. The key is not to give up. Once it starts wrapping, this can take place for up to two minutes before it breaks free. videotape your efforts so we can see the great success you have. This takes a little finesse. Hope this helps
Good luck.
Great video, but where did you get the seat removal tools?? I cannot find them anywhere???
zipseat.pro
Can anyone send a link for the zip seat extractor I can't find the one for a drill
We have it on Amazon. If you search Zip Seat Extractor it will pop up.
What is the exact name of product on Amazon. Or is it the first thing that comes up 89.99?
@@maneyhammond7404 that is it. The Zip Seat Extractor
You can use a 12 point deep well 3/4" or 19mm socket, stick it onto the Symmons seat removal tool and use an impact that way. A 12 point 3/4 socket will fit on both sides of the T35C removal tool, so you can remove both old and new seats that way. May not be better than that 300 dollar removal kit, it's certainly less compact, and I'd be willing to bet the tolerances on it are better, at least I would hope they are for that price.
The socket would probably end up chowdering up the removal tool doing this in the long run, probably would be a good idea to buy two sets and use one exclusively for old and the other for new valves. Still, two tool sets and a 5-10 dollar socket is a hell of a lot cheaper than the Zipseat tool.
Hey there, thanks for your comment.
During the several years of testing, our first prototype was actually made with the Symmons tool itself. It failed and caused more damage than help in several situations. Depending on the one you get, the tolerances are all over the place. Meaning, some are looser fitting than others. We’ve come across some that won’t even fit in the valve seats at all.
That’s why our tool has the tightest, tolerances and sharpest edges, which has been able to take out even stripped seats even though the tool wasn’t made for that.
That’s the first critical issue.
The second one is the fact that the soft cheaper metal that the tool is made of quickly rounds the edges when putting torque to it with an impact gun and strips the seats.
The Symmons hand-tools are designed to be used by hand power only.
Zip Seat Extractor Tools are made with hardened steel and impact quality.
We’ve had fantastic success, removing the seats WITHOUT stripping them.
Our tool was sent to Symmons corporation where they did their own testing in their engineering department for several months. They reported fantastic results as well.
They do NOT recommend using their hand tool with any kind of power tool… Never mind an impact gun.
The average 18 V - 3/8 drive impact gun, which is what we recommend to use with the Zip Seat Extractor, provides up to 600 ft-lbs of nut-busting torque which is key to breaking the frozen seats free.
Just like anything… Without the right tool for the job your chances of success are stacked against you. The problem with this whole process is you only get one shot, in most cases to successfully remove the seats without damaging them. Once you’ve stripped them out it can be game over. Back to replacing the valve along with all the restoration work and cost to the shower walls etc.
Our tool is not $30 because it’s not a $30 tool.
1 job pays for the Zip Seat Extractor tool set. It’ll work as good on the 50th valve as it did on the first one.
After years of research, and re-designing the tool over and over again we wanted to bring to the market, the best solution and highest quality tool.
We stand behind it with a lifetime warranty.
Once it saves your but the first time, you’ll never say…”I wish I didn’t spend that money.“
We hear it all the time.
So, if you like good tools that work, and are made right here in the USA, try this Zip Seat Extractor, and have peace of mind and confidence on your next Symmons TempTrol Valve rebuild.
One key thing here... You have to make sure the shower valve is open all the way or that nut that holds it in will not come off...
Where do I get that extractor ? My valve is maybe 45 years old. Thanks. BTW love your work style, no hack .
@@zipseatextractor actually, I found it on that zip seat extractor site. I was 200 dollars. Way to much for a home owner diyer. I would rent it for 25.00 for a one time use. Unfortunate that it is so expensive. If I was a plumber it would just be part of my tools. I was thinking it would cost 29.99 from my local plumbing supply store.
zipseat.pro
Is the Zip Tool available for purchase?
Not yet, we’re hoping to bring it to market soon. I