On this week's show, I demonstrate a very simplified version of how to make your own jig knobs in the shop. I hope you enjoy the show. Don't forget to like and subscribe.
Making a small batch of knobs in this way appears to be more efficient than making and using a jig. Especially as most of us will only ever need a couple of handfuls of knobs. Thank you, I like it.
Catching up on some of your earlier videos. Just as great as your current ones. I like projects like this that can be done when I only have a bit of time to spend in the shop. And I always appreciate saving $. -Jim
Glad that you liked the show Jim. These are a ton of fun to make and a great way to use up scrap material and kill a little bit of time in the shop. You can easily whip up a batch while you are waiting for glue to dry on other projects. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words on the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings This is why you've become one of my favorite channels. Success; made a test run of 6, 2" diameter to make it easier on an injury in one hand. I drilled 7/16" center holes and pressed 1/4" nuts in with the drill press to keep them square. No glue; they're very tight. Total cost: 6 1/4" nuts and a small scrap of Baltic birch. Cut 'em out on the band saw because it has dust collection and my scroll saw doesn't. AWESOME!! Thank you.
@@David-hm9ic I'm glad that your jig knobs were a success. It's always nice to get feedback on an episode of the show and I appreciate you taking the time to do that. I hope you continue to enjoy the channel David. There are certainly plenty of videos to choose from and I would like to think that there is something for everyone. Thanks again for tuning in.
I really hadn't given making knobs much thought. But, you made it look so easy. The only thing I will do different is use the inserts that screw in with a hex wrench. Then they would look the same on either side. I was also thinking about tear out on the bottom and might have stopped when the tip broke through and drilled the other side. With the inserts you used it would help cover any tear out. You have quickly become one of my favorite YTers. Bill
Glad to hear that you are enjoying the show Bill. As I've mentioned to you before, there is a lot of episodes of the show. Some good and some not so good. There is definitely something for everyone though. Thanks for tuning in to the show and chiming in with your suggestions and modifications. It is very much appreciated.
Personally I found the "Holy" joke pretty darn funny, and right now, we could all use a little humor in our life. Nice video. I don't have a scroll saw yet, but I am sure I can find a work around. I keep seeing over at HD the long threaded rods, and have never purchased one before. I think I will buy one and some wing nuts that fit the rod on my next trip. Thanks again for this really cool tutorial.
Glad that you liked the show Gregg. It's true that we can all use a little humour about now and I hope you will find other episodes on the channel as entertaining. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave a comment. It's truly appreciated. A band saw or jig saw or coping saw could be used to cut these knobs apart instead of a scroll saw. Good luck on your build.
Nice project tip! Most of the time I've made my knobs from the waste pieces of hole saw cut outs but that is time consuming if I cut the wings or grips into each one. I will be trying this tip soon as I need to make new knobs for the 1/2" studs that hold my drill press table to the metal table of the press. I made it removable so that when I drill metal the cutting oil doesn't soak the wood of the table I made. I've been using wing nuts but they are hard to get to. I've used t-nuts, various brass inserts, direct threading of the material, Heli-coil inserts (for durability when threading the wood) and hex nuts. I made a special set one time using 3/8" coupling nuts when I needed the extra length. One tip I would add: I usually epoxy the t-nuts into place. I've had the pound in ones back out on me.
I would agree with the epoxy for the inserts and I would take it one step further and say to drill a forstner bit hole to countersink the inserts so that they sit flush to the plywood knob. Your post just goes to show that there is definitely more than one way to accomplish the same thing and as long as it work for you, there is no right or wrong way. Thanks for the great input and for tuning in to the show. It's appreciated.
Hi Kenny, I bought a pack of 100 "T" nuts for £4:00 on amazon but after that I found that a thread tap makes good threads that a M8 bolt can screw into, making the knobs even cheaper (I like cheaper). also if you need a knob that can screw into a nut then the M8 bolt works great.
Great suggestion John. Thanks for chiming in with your idea. I am positive that some of my viewers will find this information to be extremely useful. Thank you for tuning in to the program this week sir. I appreciate your support.
I agree 100% with this Marilyn. It's a great suggestion that I should have included in the show. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to chime in with your suggestion. I truly appreciate it.
This method does save some time Raymond. Another thing that you may want to consider is using a forstner bit to countersink the back of the threaded insert so that it doesn't stand proud of the plywood knob. It doesn't bother me if it stands proud but some folks would prefer it to be flush. Thanks for tuning in to the show sir.
My next project with my scraps! Best part is you can make a whole bunch of knobs all at once efficiently! Besides, I'm always looking for a way to use my T-nuts.
Thank you for the kind words on the show. The ruler that I use is called a T-Rule and they are manufactured by a company called INCRA. You can find them here. incra.com/measuring_marking-trules.html I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show. It is very much appreciated.
Excellent video and process. Thank you for sharing. Excellent Craftsman but...the stand up may need a light sanding...get it, light sanding. Be careful out there.
Just found your channel. The size of your shop comes close to the size of mine. Just curious but do you have any trouble with the T-nuts coming out after some use? Was thinking maybe i should put them in the top side instead of the bottom?
I've never had an issue with any of the T-nuts coming out. I've never had to tighten them that much. If you are concerned, there's nothing wrong with putting them on the top side as you suggested. Just make sure to use a washer between your jig knob and your what it is against, otherwise it will bind when tightening. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Ken, those knobs came out great. You’re right, they are sure a lot cheaper than store bought ones. I am going to try and 3D print some with an inset for a 1/4 - 20 nut that I will either super glue or epoxy in. Hey, that is a good idea for a show. Now I need to wait until Tuesday to see what you do with them. Good show again this week. Oh yeah, getting a bit fuzzy aren’t you...LOL.
I'm getting more than just fuzzy Paul. LOL. It's winter in Canada and if you were in a Canadian winter, you would prefer to be fuzzy too. Great idea on the 3D printing for the jig knobs. I'd love to see you do that on your show. Thanks for tuning in again this week sir. It's truly appreciated.
I understand that you like using your scroll saw Kenny but I'm puzzled as to why you didn't simply use a hole saw to cut the final shape as it seems perfect for this job?
The methods that I show on the program are only one of many possible ways to do something. I personally prefer the scroll saw and enjoy sitting down and cutting these out. There is absolutely nothing wrong with your hole saw suggestion and if that is the method that works for you, then by all means, that is the method that you should use. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your suggestion. It's a great one.
I'm not exactly sure if they make that size or not but it seems that they make just about every size these days. It's just a matter of finding them. Thanks for tuning in.
I know this is an old video; I hadn't thought of using T-nuts, just used 1/4-20 nuts and epoxied them in place, then epoxy a washer over that -- kind of messy! I'm thinking, with the T-nuts, you might not need a washer at all.
It's possible that you may not need the washer Richard but I still add one anyway as it makes the final tightening of the jig knob a little easier and reduces the friction between the jig knob and the jig. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your comment. It is very much appreciated.
Great suggestion. Using a sanding drum on those edges would definitely make short work of taking off that crisp edge and it would go a long way to making the shop made knobs a little easier on the hands. Thanks for chiming in with your suggestion and for tuning in to the show. It's appreciated.
Nice video. Wouldn’t have been easier to use an 1 1/2 hole saw on the drill press to cut each knob out? Not complaining because it was a very nice, informative video.
For every process in woodworking Kevin, there are about 10 or more different ways to accomplish the same thing. As long as it is done safely and to the maker's satisfaction then there is no wrong way. For me, I find the scroll saw to be the easiest and I'm not a fan of hole saws. (too much heat build up for my liking) but if the holes saw works for you and others, then by all means, please use it. It's a great idea. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to chime in with your suggestion. It's truly appreciated.
The clamp you are asking about Ed is a Veritas Quick Release Wonder Dog. It was purchased at Lee Valley Tools. Here is a link. I hope it helps. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/benchtop-accessories/74622-veritas-quick-release-wonder-dog?item=05G1030 Thanks for tuning in to the show.
The ruler that you are asking about William is called a T-rule and they are made by INCRA. I purchased mine at Lee Valley Tools but they are available at most woodworking suppliers or directly from Incra.com. I hope this helps. Here's a link to the Lee Valley site. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/rules/58877-incra-t-rules Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks for the kind words on the program. The square that you are talking about is called a T-rule and they are made by INCRA. You can get them at most woodworking stores or from INCRA directly. I got mine from Lee Valley tools. Here's the link. www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=58877&cat=1,43513,58883,58877 I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
It's just one of those phrases Stella. I can't explain it either. Same as a thrust bearing. I guess those two could go hand in hand. You could tighten a thrust bearing with a jig knob. LOL. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Awesome content dude. I found your channel looking for grr-ripper reviews and your assembly and review videos and really like how you do your videos. Subscribed. :-)
Welcome aboard as a subscriber NW. Glad to have you here. I hope that you will find plenty of content to enjoy on the channel. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions that you might have along the way. I'd be more than happy to help you out if I can. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks! :-) I'm watching your abs gopro mount now; perfect timing as I just got an action cam and want to incorporate it in my own woodworking videos this coming spring.
"fear the beard?!?!?!?!?" Well it wasn't my motto but it sure as heck is now!!!! LOL. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in this week David. Great to hear you comments on the show.
The marking device that I use in this show (and most of my shows) is called a T-rule and it is made by INCRA. You can find them at most woodworking suppliers or you can purchase it from INCRA directly. Here's a link to the Lee Valley page for the INCRA T-rule. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/rules/58877-incra-t-rules If you require metric, you will have to go directly to INCRA and purchase it. I believe their website is www.incra.com I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@PRmeckanic Everyone has to start somewhere. Feel free to ask as many questions as you like along the way. I will help in any way I can. Thanks again for tuning in to the show.
My shop is 12'X24' with 8' ceilings. It takes time to get your shop laid out the way that really works for you, and you will most likely rearrange it multiple times before you finally get a setup that you are happy with. Good luck with getting organized and if you have any questions, please feel free to ask. Thanks for tuning in to the show. Your support is appreciated.
With the bad jokes you tell you are qualified to be a science or math teacher. Says the former math and science teacher who just loved to hear the groans from the class.
I will definitely take this as a compliment WoodRodent. Life is way too short to be serious all the time and a little humour here and there is good for the soul. Thanks for comparing a simple guy like myself to the educators of our children. I'm honoured to be mentioned in the same "class" as them. Thanks for tuning in to the show sir. I appreciate your support. (by the way, that "class" joke was accidental and I actually made myself laugh when I typed it out and realized what I just said.)
All that drilling was boring🤪 that was a pretty Jigy project! I will have to admit I have not had good luck hammering in the T-Nuts they want to split the wood unless I predrill where the points go into the wood.
Boring......Jiggy.........ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha. Those T-nuts can be finicky at times. A threaded insert would work as well. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings I have seen some people pre drill for the prongs, but I was in a hurry. I thought they might not stay in if I drilled them and besides, that would be a whole lot of drilling. By the way, I also drilled a 3/4" shallow hole (counter sink) for the inserts before I drilled the 5/16 hole in the center.
LOL. That would be money well spent Catherine. Scrolling is by far, the most relaxing form of woodworking that you will ever have the pleasure of doing. If you ever get the chance, please don't deny yourself. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
That's the great thing about this hobby of ours Fibra, for every process, there are many different ways to accomplish them. I appreciate you chiming in with your suggestion and I thank you for tuning in.
People actually have "scrap" 18mm Birch plywood? 18mm is currently (March 2022) $189 for 5-ft x 5-ft. locally. Even so Powertec on Amazon are $1.83. Suppose you can get 25 knobs per square foot so even high priced Birch would yield $0.30 per knob plus threaded insert.
This video was produced long before the price of plywood and other construction materials went through the roof Lance. But even with the higher price of plywood, there are still those that have smaller off cuts that would normally be of no use. Inserts can be purchased in bulk quite cheaply from amazon and it would give an opportunity to use up those otherwise unusable pieces of ply that are now, like gold. In fact, it might be cheaper now to make them out of gold. LOL. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your comment. I hope you were able to take something positive away from the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings I did find something - that 30-212VS Rikon sure looks like a sweet bench top machine. Need something to replace my Fisher-Price Ryobi with plastic drive pulleys.
@@LanceMcGrew Glad to hear it. I do like the Rikon drill press. That variable speed has come in handy quite a few times. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
Well hopefully, you enjoyed the project enough to stay tuned in and make your own jig knobs. Sometimes, you just have to have a little fun. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave a comment on Sunday!!! :). (you know......because it's holy). LOL
@@TetraCNC These shows are pre-recorded and honestly, I forgot all about that joke. I had to go back and watch the show again to remind myself. I laughed at myself way harder than I should have.
Oh, I'm aware that there are cheap sources on the internet for these things but sometimes, it's just more fun to make your own. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in. I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment.
If you look hard enough you can find most things cheaper somewhere - but how is that improving your skills, and doesn’t that just reward cheap quality.? Give me homemade if possible every time.
@@SimonBarnsley I like a combination of both. I do like store bought knobs but I also agree with you that making your own is a great way to improve skills. There's also a great sense of satisfaction in making your own. A sense of pride. Thanks for tuning in
a wee bit OTT, I think Newbie gets the same results for much less effort , and btw you are not a comedian. I do like the way you dont have irritating Musak
Not every show can please every viewer Bill and I appreciate your honesty. Hopefully you were able to take something positive away from the show and hopefully you enjoyed the program. As for being a comedian......I crack myself up. LOL. I agree with you that the background music is irritating. I tried it for a while on my show and hated the results. Didn't take me long to get rid of it. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave a comment. I appreciate it.
![[DIY] The easy way to make hexagon knobs/ Making Star Knobs](/img/n.gif)
Making a small batch of knobs in this way appears to be more efficient than making and using a jig. Especially as most of us will only ever need a couple of handfuls of knobs. Thank you, I like it.
Glad to hear that you like the project Arthur. Thank you for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words. I truly appreciate it.
Finally! A specific instruction on how to make the knobs. The step-by-step information really simplifies the whole process. Thank you.
You're very welcome Cheri. I'm glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words.
Of all the videos i have seen this is the easiest plus you can make a lot at once brillant job as usual Kenny. Keep the videos coming
I'm glad that you enjoyed the show. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to chime in with your kind words.
That's the simplest explanation/demo I've seen so far. I'll be using this way to make my own now. Thanks!!
Thanks for the kind words on the show Heather. I appreciate you tuning in and taking the time to leave a comment.
Catching up on some of your earlier videos. Just as great as your current ones. I like projects like this that can be done when I only have a bit of time to spend in the shop. And I always appreciate saving $. -Jim
Glad that you liked the show Jim. These are a ton of fun to make and a great way to use up scrap material and kill a little bit of time in the shop. You can easily whip up a batch while you are waiting for glue to dry on other projects. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words on the show.
I like how each time you went to drill, you added a drum roll! LOL. Nice knobs, and easy!
Glad that you liked the show Russ. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave the kind words. It's appreciated.
Thanks! I've spent too much on knobs lately and this will really help. I'll use 1/2" Baltic birch scraps and glued in 1/4" nuts.
Glad that you liked them David. Good luck with your jig knobs and thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings This is why you've become one of my favorite channels. Success; made a test run of 6, 2" diameter to make it easier on an injury in one hand. I drilled 7/16" center holes and pressed 1/4" nuts in with the drill press to keep them square. No glue; they're very tight. Total cost: 6 1/4" nuts and a small scrap of Baltic birch. Cut 'em out on the band saw because it has dust collection and my scroll saw doesn't. AWESOME!! Thank you.
@@David-hm9ic I'm glad that your jig knobs were a success. It's always nice to get feedback on an episode of the show and I appreciate you taking the time to do that. I hope you continue to enjoy the channel David. There are certainly plenty of videos to choose from and I would like to think that there is something for everyone. Thanks again for tuning in.
I really hadn't given making knobs much thought. But, you made it look so easy. The only thing I will do different is use the inserts that screw in with a hex wrench. Then they would look the same on either side. I was also thinking about tear out on the bottom and might have stopped when the tip broke through and drilled the other side. With the inserts you used it would help cover any tear out. You have quickly become one of my favorite YTers. Bill
Glad to hear that you are enjoying the show Bill. As I've mentioned to you before, there is a lot of episodes of the show. Some good and some not so good. There is definitely something for everyone though. Thanks for tuning in to the show and chiming in with your suggestions and modifications. It is very much appreciated.
Another informative video, easy to follow and a way to save a few bucks. Thanks again.
Glad that you enjoyed the show. Thanks for tuning in.
Great job. Congratulations.
Glad that you liked it Oswald. Thanks for tuning in
Very nice my friend, is a new way to do knobs, good. Luiz, Rio de Janeiro city, Brazil.
I'm glad that you like them Luiz. Thank you for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave the kind words. I appreciate it.
Personally I found the "Holy" joke pretty darn funny, and right now, we could all use a little humor in our life. Nice video. I don't have a scroll saw yet, but I am sure I can find a work around. I keep seeing over at HD the long threaded rods, and have never purchased one before. I think I will buy one and some wing nuts that fit the rod on my next trip. Thanks again for this really cool tutorial.
Glad that you liked the show Gregg. It's true that we can all use a little humour about now and I hope you will find other episodes on the channel as entertaining. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave a comment. It's truly appreciated. A band saw or jig saw or coping saw could be used to cut these knobs apart instead of a scroll saw. Good luck on your build.
Very practical and easy to do, thanks for the idea.
You're very welcome Francisco. I'm glad that you liked the project. Thank you for tuning in to the show. I appreciate the support.
Nice project tip!
Most of the time I've made my knobs from the waste pieces of hole saw cut outs but that is time consuming if I cut the wings or grips into each one.
I will be trying this tip soon as I need to make new knobs for the 1/2" studs that hold my drill press table to the metal table of the press. I made it removable so that when I drill metal the cutting oil doesn't soak the wood of the table I made. I've been using wing nuts but they are hard to get to.
I've used t-nuts, various brass inserts, direct threading of the material, Heli-coil inserts (for durability when threading the wood) and hex nuts. I made a special set one time using 3/8" coupling nuts when I needed the extra length.
One tip I would add: I usually epoxy the t-nuts into place. I've had the pound in ones back out on me.
I would agree with the epoxy for the inserts and I would take it one step further and say to drill a forstner bit hole to countersink the inserts so that they sit flush to the plywood knob. Your post just goes to show that there is definitely more than one way to accomplish the same thing and as long as it work for you, there is no right or wrong way. Thanks for the great input and for tuning in to the show. It's appreciated.
Thanks Kenny. Love you humour!
I'm glad that someone does Francis. I keep telling my wife that I am hilarious but she isn't buying it. LOL. Thanks for tuning in
Hi Kenny, I bought a pack of 100 "T" nuts for £4:00 on amazon but after that I found that a thread tap makes good threads that a M8 bolt can screw into, making the knobs even cheaper (I like cheaper). also if you need a knob that can screw into a nut then the M8 bolt works great.
Great suggestion John. Thanks for chiming in with your idea. I am positive that some of my viewers will find this information to be extremely useful. Thank you for tuning in to the program this week sir. I appreciate your support.
Great demonstration! I loved the Sunday-holy joke, by the way.
Finally!!! Someone who appreciates my humour. LOL. Thanks for tuning in to the show John. I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment.
Countersink the head of the tee nut for a smooth top 3/4 forstner bit
I agree 100% with this Marilyn. It's a great suggestion that I should have included in the show. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to chime in with your suggestion. I truly appreciate it.
Great project Kenny thank you, it will time doing them your way.
This method does save some time Raymond. Another thing that you may want to consider is using a forstner bit to countersink the back of the threaded insert so that it doesn't stand proud of the plywood knob. It doesn't bother me if it stands proud but some folks would prefer it to be flush. Thanks for tuning in to the show sir.
My next project with my scraps! Best part is you can make a whole bunch of knobs all at once efficiently! Besides, I'm always looking for a way to use my T-nuts.
Glad that you found the show to be useful. Thanks for tuning in and good luck on your build.
Gracias por este excelente trabajo, ¿Dónde puedo adquirir la regla que utilizas para dibujar? Me encanta
Thank you for the kind words on the show. The ruler that I use is called a T-Rule and they are manufactured by a company called INCRA. You can find them here. incra.com/measuring_marking-trules.html
I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show. It is very much appreciated.
Muchas gracias, ya he localizado el producto. Feliz fin de semana
@@lhe2000 You are very welcome. Glad that you found one. I hope you have a good weekend too.
Nice idea and Excellent work I like it Thank you for this wonderful video
Glad that you liked it Zafar. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Excellent video and process. Thank you for sharing.
Excellent Craftsman but...the stand up may need a light sanding...get it, light sanding. Be careful out there.
LOL. You and I should go on a comedy tour. LOL. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Just found your channel. The size of your shop comes close to the size of mine.
Just curious but do you have any trouble with the T-nuts coming out after some use? Was thinking maybe i should put them in the top side instead of the bottom?
I've never had an issue with any of the T-nuts coming out. I've never had to tighten them that much. If you are concerned, there's nothing wrong with putting them on the top side as you suggested. Just make sure to use a washer between your jig knob and your what it is against, otherwise it will bind when tightening. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Ken, those knobs came out great. You’re right, they are sure a lot cheaper than store bought ones. I am going to try and 3D print some with an inset for a 1/4 - 20 nut that I will either super glue or epoxy in. Hey, that is a good idea for a show. Now I need to wait until Tuesday to see what you do with them. Good show again this week. Oh yeah, getting a bit fuzzy aren’t you...LOL.
I'm getting more than just fuzzy Paul. LOL. It's winter in Canada and if you were in a Canadian winter, you would prefer to be fuzzy too. Great idea on the 3D printing for the jig knobs. I'd love to see you do that on your show. Thanks for tuning in again this week sir. It's truly appreciated.
I understand that you like using your scroll saw Kenny but I'm puzzled as to why you didn't simply use a hole saw to cut the final shape as it seems perfect for this job?
The methods that I show on the program are only one of many possible ways to do something. I personally prefer the scroll saw and enjoy sitting down and cutting these out. There is absolutely nothing wrong with your hole saw suggestion and if that is the method that works for you, then by all means, that is the method that you should use. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your suggestion. It's a great one.
Do theymake those t nuts for 1/2-13 carriage bolts? Making culls out of unistrut.
I'm not exactly sure if they make that size or not but it seems that they make just about every size these days. It's just a matter of finding them. Thanks for tuning in.
I know this is an old video; I hadn't thought of using T-nuts, just used 1/4-20 nuts and epoxied them in place, then epoxy a washer over that -- kind of messy! I'm thinking, with the T-nuts, you might not need a washer at all.
It's possible that you may not need the washer Richard but I still add one anyway as it makes the final tightening of the jig knob a little easier and reduces the friction between the jig knob and the jig. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your comment. It is very much appreciated.
Very nice job 👍🏼
Thank you very much Tomas. I'm glad that you enjoyed the project. Thanks for tuning in to the program.
To break the sharp edges of the knob I would use a wider cylindrical sand paper and just lightly pass on the groves of the sides
Great suggestion. Using a sanding drum on those edges would definitely make short work of taking off that crisp edge and it would go a long way to making the shop made knobs a little easier on the hands. Thanks for chiming in with your suggestion and for tuning in to the show. It's appreciated.
Nice video. Wouldn’t have been easier to use an 1 1/2 hole saw on the drill press to cut each knob out? Not complaining because it was a very nice, informative video.
For every process in woodworking Kevin, there are about 10 or more different ways to accomplish the same thing. As long as it is done safely and to the maker's satisfaction then there is no wrong way. For me, I find the scroll saw to be the easiest and I'm not a fan of hole saws. (too much heat build up for my liking) but if the holes saw works for you and others, then by all means, please use it. It's a great idea. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to chime in with your suggestion. It's truly appreciated.
WHERE DID YOU GET THE BLACK CLAMP ON YOUR TABLE
The clamp you are asking about Ed is a Veritas Quick Release Wonder Dog. It was purchased at Lee Valley Tools. Here is a link. I hope it helps. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/benchtop-accessories/74622-veritas-quick-release-wonder-dog?item=05G1030
Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Where did you get the wide rule with holes in it
The ruler that you are asking about William is called a T-rule and they are made by INCRA. I purchased mine at Lee Valley Tools but they are available at most woodworking suppliers or directly from Incra.com. I hope this helps. Here's a link to the Lee Valley site. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/rules/58877-incra-t-rules
Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great, thank you.
The square ruler with pin holes you used at the beginning, where did you buy it from?
Thanks for the kind words on the program. The square that you are talking about is called a T-rule and they are made by INCRA. You can get them at most woodworking stores or from INCRA directly. I got mine from Lee Valley tools. Here's the link. www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=58877&cat=1,43513,58883,58877
I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings you're a great help. thank you
You're very welcome @@antonin654
good alternative method without holesaw
(i had no succsess with a knob jig because my holesaw is this interupted blade which gets stuck)
Glad that you like the alternative method. Thanks for tuning in to the show. It's appreciated.
It gets stuck because it is not a perfect arc (circle).....it might be bent a little or it is made of very thin steel sheet.
Why is the phrase “jig knobs” so darn funny? 😁🤔
It's just one of those phrases Stella. I can't explain it either. Same as a thrust bearing. I guess those two could go hand in hand. You could tighten a thrust bearing with a jig knob. LOL. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings I might have to start using “jig nobs!” as a substitute swear word!
@@stellabelikiewicz1523 Now that's funny.
Awesome content dude. I found your channel looking for grr-ripper reviews and your assembly and review videos and really like how you do your videos. Subscribed. :-)
Welcome aboard as a subscriber NW. Glad to have you here. I hope that you will find plenty of content to enjoy on the channel. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions that you might have along the way. I'd be more than happy to help you out if I can. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks! :-)
I'm watching your abs gopro mount now; perfect timing as I just got an action cam and want to incorporate it in my own woodworking videos this coming spring.
That's awesome. I hope you enjoy the show. If you have any question, don't hesitate to ask.
Another simple but useful project. Is your new Motto going to be, "Fear the Beard"?
"fear the beard?!?!?!?!?" Well it wasn't my motto but it sure as heck is now!!!! LOL. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in this week David. Great to hear you comments on the show.
Holy --Bada Boom Bada Bing
Not sure if this is a good thing or a bad thing, but thanks for tuning in Peter.
Late but thumbs up LOL
Better late than never Karl. Thanks for tuning in.
Does anyone have the link to his marking ruler ??
The marking device that I use in this show (and most of my shows) is called a T-rule and it is made by INCRA. You can find them at most woodworking suppliers or you can purchase it from INCRA directly. Here's a link to the Lee Valley page for the INCRA T-rule.
www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/rules/58877-incra-t-rules
If you require metric, you will have to go directly to INCRA and purchase it. I believe their website is www.incra.com
I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
kennyearrings1 -Thank you , I am new to wood working .
@@PRmeckanic Everyone has to start somewhere. Feel free to ask as many questions as you like along the way. I will help in any way I can. Thanks again for tuning in to the show.
What is your shop dimensions? I have a small shop, and trying to lay out correctly.
My shop is 12'X24' with 8' ceilings. It takes time to get your shop laid out the way that really works for you, and you will most likely rearrange it multiple times before you finally get a setup that you are happy with. Good luck with getting organized and if you have any questions, please feel free to ask. Thanks for tuning in to the show. Your support is appreciated.
With the bad jokes you tell you are qualified to be a science or math teacher. Says the former math and science teacher who just loved to hear the groans from the class.
I will definitely take this as a compliment WoodRodent. Life is way too short to be serious all the time and a little humour here and there is good for the soul. Thanks for comparing a simple guy like myself to the educators of our children. I'm honoured to be mentioned in the same "class" as them. Thanks for tuning in to the show sir. I appreciate your support.
(by the way, that "class" joke was accidental and I actually made myself laugh when I typed it out and realized what I just said.)
All that drilling was boring🤪 that was a pretty Jigy project!
I will have to admit I have not had good luck hammering in the T-Nuts they want to split the wood unless I predrill where the points go into the wood.
Boring......Jiggy.........ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha. Those T-nuts can be finicky at times. A threaded insert would work as well. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Do not hammer the T Nuts into hard maple. You will split all the jig knobs. I will now make another set, break the prongs off, and epoxy them in.
I've never tried the inserts in hard maple Russ. Good to know that it may not work. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with the advice.
@@acutabove_woodworkings I have seen some people pre drill for the prongs, but I was in a hurry. I thought they might not stay in if I drilled them and besides, that would be a whole lot of drilling. By the way, I also drilled a 3/4" shallow hole (counter sink) for the inserts before I drilled the 5/16 hole in the center.
Great video K-man
Thanks Vlad. I appreciate the kind words. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
It would only cost me $5 for the parts and $500 for the scroll saw. Nice!
LOL. That would be money well spent Catherine. Scrolling is by far, the most relaxing form of woodworking that you will ever have the pleasure of doing. If you ever get the chance, please don't deny yourself. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You could use a cheap coping saw, I think..
BEL VIDEO.
COMPLIMENTI.
SALUTI
SALVIO
Thank you very much Salvio. I appreciate you tuning in to the show. Thank you.
If you space those main circles appart you would not have the sharp edges and it is less work. Dents don't actually need to bee that deep.
That's the great thing about this hobby of ours Fibra, for every process, there are many different ways to accomplish them. I appreciate you chiming in with your suggestion and I thank you for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thank you for video.
People actually have "scrap" 18mm Birch plywood? 18mm is currently (March 2022) $189 for 5-ft x 5-ft. locally. Even so Powertec on Amazon are $1.83. Suppose you can get 25 knobs per square foot so even high priced Birch would yield $0.30 per knob plus threaded insert.
This video was produced long before the price of plywood and other construction materials went through the roof Lance. But even with the higher price of plywood, there are still those that have smaller off cuts that would normally be of no use. Inserts can be purchased in bulk quite cheaply from amazon and it would give an opportunity to use up those otherwise unusable pieces of ply that are now, like gold. In fact, it might be cheaper now to make them out of gold. LOL. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your comment. I hope you were able to take something positive away from the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings I did find something - that 30-212VS Rikon sure looks like a sweet bench top machine. Need something to replace my Fisher-Price Ryobi with plastic drive pulleys.
@@LanceMcGrew Glad to hear it. I do like the Rikon drill press. That variable speed has come in handy quite a few times. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
Up till the corny joke I was enjoying this
Well hopefully, you enjoyed the project enough to stay tuned in and make your own jig knobs. Sometimes, you just have to have a little fun. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave a comment on Sunday!!! :). (you know......because it's holy). LOL
We call hammers "knocking Sticks" where I come from.
Knocking sticks.....whackometer. Whatever you call it is just fine with me. Thanks for tuning in Steve.
😂
Not sure where the humour is in this but thanks for tuning in.
Caution "Dad" joke ahead
Well? Let's hear it. Where's the dad joke? LOL. Thanks for tuning in Richard.
LOL I kind of meant your joke about Sunday...
@@TetraCNC These shows are pre-recorded and honestly, I forgot all about that joke. I had to go back and watch the show again to remind myself. I laughed at myself way harder than I should have.
10:05 *11.46 EURO* on Amazon for ten pieces! But anyway - nice work.
Oh, I'm aware that there are cheap sources on the internet for these things but sometimes, it's just more fun to make your own. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in. I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment.
If you look hard enough you can find most things cheaper somewhere - but how is that improving your skills, and doesn’t that just reward cheap quality.? Give me homemade if possible every time.
@@SimonBarnsley I like a combination of both. I do like store bought knobs but I also agree with you that making your own is a great way to improve skills. There's also a great sense of satisfaction in making your own. A sense of pride. Thanks for tuning in
a wee bit OTT, I think Newbie gets the same results for much less effort , and btw you are not a comedian. I do like the way you dont have irritating Musak
Not every show can please every viewer Bill and I appreciate your honesty. Hopefully you were able to take something positive away from the show and hopefully you enjoyed the program. As for being a comedian......I crack myself up. LOL. I agree with you that the background music is irritating. I tried it for a while on my show and hated the results. Didn't take me long to get rid of it. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave a comment. I appreciate it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings every day is a schoolday, thank you for replying
You're very welcome Bill.