If you're not going to use actual tuc tape or even foil tape, I would recommend clear packing tape over duck tape. Duck tape won't last and will dry out and deteriorate.
I have been follow your blog about the barndonium and it is going great. I love what your doing and how your doing it. I know from experience the duct tape will work initially though 10 to 15 years down the line it will loose all of it's adhesion properties and just fall off behind your walls. The better thing to be using would be aluminum tape, which is made to last forever. And or a can a of spray foam to seal up the joints. Or you could use a mylar tuck tape they use on vapor barrier up in Canada. Depends on what you have available, The contractor that built my old house had tried to use duct tape to seal the air conditioning ducts, and after 15 years every single joint leaked in every single wall.
Good job looks great. Built my house in 1978 Lowes kit Had them change all exterior wall studs to 2x6 walls 16" on center 6" faced insulation inside walls they question why, 3/4 foam ins on outside T111 fir siding. In the 40 plus years wonder how much i have saved.... hope you are using 2x6 studs inside with 6" insulation also it will pay for its self.
You're not a carpenter, you're not an insulator, you're not a lot of things. You're just a guy that will take on any task and do a great job with it. Well done.
We built ours inside a metal building shop my husband had built. He built it for a workshop, it has a cement floor like yours. When we sold our house and moved to our retirement property ( where the shop was) my husband decided to convert the shop to our home. The shop had a lean to on one side, 12 feet wide so we had cement poured under it and 10×12 of that porch became our utility room. The house was 24×36 before inside walls were added. We have 2 bedrooms and one bath also. The master bedroom is larger than guest room but both have queen sized beds with plenty of walk around space. We love our little house, it is very efficient to heat and cool and we have a woodstove in it which was essential for us. We lived in our RV on our property while building our house. Worked out great! I'm interested to follow your progress! We built in Texas way out in country, 85 miles from nearest city so no code to worry about.
When I was finishing my workshop, I used 1 1/2" foam board and installed the foam flush with the girts. I spray foamed over the girt and board. The spray foam plus foam board makes the building super air-tite and very easy to heat. If the outside metal ever gets damaged, it can be easily replaced. The metal provides natural air spaces between the foam and metal. Do you have plans for AC in the summer?
That should really make a big difference, and so much better to work with than fiberglass. It’s really coming along guys, must be exciting. Be well my friends.
Kids got a great education and some fun, but I would have used a table saw with the proper blade to cut this material. Just a thought. Love watching the channel!
Like what you're doing. I would apply another layer of foam insulation the opposite way, vertically to add higher R value. You have all your nailing right there. You will never get the opportunity than you have right now. GOOD LUCK ‼️ Vinny 🇺🇸
young man , use : 4 x 8 sheet insulate up right to your wall with ; plastic rounf cap 2 inch or 2 - 1/2 inch grip - rite still have air space between the walls too !
could you save time and material by using 3 vertical pieces of foam spacers run vertical instead of running two strips entirely down the length horizontally? also, 3m Spray Adhesive is great for thing like this as well!
A technical point, but R values don't depend on air gaps next to layers of insulation. R is a measure of the specific material's heat transfer speed, nothing else. The overall insulation effect depends on air gaps, though. This is one reason why R value by itself is not a useful number. If insulation is installed improperly, if there's too much thermal bridging or too many air gaps, for example, a building with a high R value could still be a pain to heat and cool.
It’s a little late you’ve already put stuff up you need to read the Cannes it will say spray and wait a couple minutes until it’s tacky can you put it together
If you are still doing spacers maybe cut the long piece in half and use only sections one piece could do two runs if you space them every other foot or so will save you time and not lose strength plus air gap would be improved.
The reason I asked is that you really should have used that foam board between the tyvek and the metal. Then you would have eliminated the transfer of heat between the horizontal boards Thermal break. So you have 6.5 r value where there is foam and r1 for where the woood is located. Now going to assume you are going to put in more insulation in where you install your 2 x studs. Blown in cellulose? Cheapest fastest and because of the way this building is designed and constructed it will work as well as most any type of insulation like mineral wool.
My small town here in Florida acreage is about $50k an acre, but I remember about 30 years ago when it was around $1-2k an acre. I sure wish I would have bought a bunch then.
so.. Kevin I just wanted to say good job but ironically the wood is going to be your weak points here.. wood has an absolutely awful R value when it comes to insulation. However that should help immensely.. i would still (specially if you live in a colder climate) still put some really weak insulation inside the building but its not entirely required. However if I was going to build my place and I could do it while the walls are open.. i would.
If you're not going to use actual tuc tape or even foil tape, I would recommend clear packing tape over duck tape. Duck tape won't last and will dry out and deteriorate.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SHARING YOUR JOURNEY OF BUILDING THIS PROJECT WITH US.
BLESSINGS, Carlos ✝️🙏❤️😊❗️
Thank you so much for following my friend.
I have been follow your blog about the barndonium and it is going great. I love what your doing and how your doing it. I know from experience the duct tape will work initially though 10 to 15 years down the line it will loose all of it's adhesion properties and just fall off behind your walls. The better thing to be using would be aluminum tape, which is made to last forever. And or a can a of spray foam to seal up the joints. Or you could use a mylar tuck tape they use on vapor barrier up in Canada. Depends on what you have available, The contractor that built my old house had tried to use duct tape to seal the air conditioning ducts, and after 15 years every single joint leaked in every single wall.
Let your spray adhesive tack up for a minute then it'll stick easily. Looks great good job!
That's gonna be easy to heat and cool with all the insulation you have. Great job my friend.
I sure hope so William thanks for the comment.
Good job looks great. Built my house in 1978 Lowes kit Had them change all exterior wall studs to 2x6 walls 16" on center 6" faced insulation inside walls they question why, 3/4 foam ins on outside T111 fir siding. In the 40 plus years wonder how much i have saved.... hope you are using 2x6 studs inside with 6" insulation also it will pay for its self.
You're not a carpenter, you're not an insulator, you're not a lot of things. You're just a guy that will take on any task and do a great job with it. Well done.
If there's a wheel LOL thanks for the comment Daryl
@12:49 if you look at the instructions on that foam board, They tell you to put the foil facing the heated side of the wall. Which is the inside.
Thanks for the info.
We built ours inside a metal building shop my husband had built. He built it for a workshop, it has a cement floor like yours. When we sold our house and moved to our retirement property ( where the shop was) my husband decided to convert the shop to our home. The shop had a lean to on one side, 12 feet wide so we had cement poured under it and 10×12 of that porch became our utility room. The house was 24×36 before inside walls were added. We have 2 bedrooms and one bath also. The master bedroom is larger than guest room but both have queen sized beds with plenty of walk around space. We love our little house, it is very efficient to heat and cool and we have a woodstove in it which was essential for us. We lived in our RV on our property while building our house. Worked out great! I'm interested to follow your progress! We built in Texas way out in country, 85 miles from nearest city so no code to worry about.
Good job and lots of patience. No short cut to good hard work!
When I was finishing my workshop, I used 1 1/2" foam board and installed the foam flush with the girts. I spray foamed over the girt and board. The spray foam plus foam board makes the building super air-tite and very easy to heat. If the outside metal ever gets damaged, it can be easily replaced. The metal provides natural air spaces between the foam and metal. Do you have plans for AC in the summer?
That should really make a big difference, and so much better to work with than fiberglass. It’s really coming along guys, must be exciting. Be well my friends.
Guys, I've really been enjoying your barndominium build series. It's great to see you two working together on this.
Thank you so much my friend.
Kids got a great education and some fun, but I would have used a table saw with the proper blade to cut this material. Just a thought. Love watching the channel!
Coming along bueatyfully kevin
Thank you Edward.
need to let the adhesive dry to the touch, then it will stay so strong you wont be able to pull it apart.
Happy thanksgiving to you and your family
Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family to my friend
Like what you're doing. I would apply another layer of foam insulation the opposite way, vertically to add higher R value. You have all your nailing right there. You will never get the opportunity than you have right now. GOOD LUCK ‼️ Vinny 🇺🇸
I'm going to put 6" insulation the opposite way
young man ,
use : 4 x 8 sheet insulate up right to your wall with ; plastic rounf cap 2 inch or 2 - 1/2 inch grip - rite still have air space between the walls too !
Thanks for the comment
Just a question. Is the rough in electrical done? It is easier before insulation just saying.
On electrical done yet still have to build the walls thanks Chad.
could you save time and material by using 3 vertical pieces of foam spacers run vertical instead of running two strips entirely down the length horizontally? also, 3m Spray Adhesive is great for thing like this as well!
I will be using 6" insulation over that insulation.
Since hall put it up, has it made a difference in the temperature of the house? Looks great! Thank you for sharing!
It is already holding heat definitely a difference thanks Paul
A technical point, but R values don't depend on air gaps next to layers of insulation. R is a measure of the specific material's heat transfer speed, nothing else. The overall insulation effect depends on air gaps, though.
This is one reason why R value by itself is not a useful number. If insulation is installed improperly, if there's too much thermal bridging or too many air gaps, for example, a building with a high R value could still be a pain to heat and cool.
Shoulda Build it with a bookshelf girt and use r19 batted insulation in between the girts. You have built in draft stop and way better insulation.
It's not done we still have to put the walls up on the outside video should come out today thank you for the comment
looking good Kevin,quick question any thoughts on a root cellar in the floor?
Yes one day
I got the easy job there 😂
Thanks for watching.
Hey Kevin with all the insulation you're putting in that house it may cost you probably a whole ten bucks the heat it
I agree
I hope your right James thanks for the comment my friend.
It’s a little late you’ve already put stuff up you need to read the Cannes it will say spray and wait a couple minutes until it’s tacky can you put it together
It says on the can to spray it wait one minute but I don't really take the time to link to minute
If you are still doing spacers maybe cut the long piece in half and use only sections one piece could do two runs if you space them every other foot or so will save you time and not lose strength plus air gap would be improved.
Thanks.
if u seal insulate tight , they will start molding
Thanks for the comment
Suggest you look up PERFECT WALL because your system will work but not as well as this style.
Thanks for the comment
@@Robinson-Homestead very few folks are aware of all the research that has gone on with making the houses super comfortable.
R7 in the wall isn't enough insulation. Check your code I believe Ohio is R-13 -R-17.
I will have R 6.65 + R 21 will = 27.65
The reason I asked is that you really should have used that foam board between the tyvek and the metal. Then you would have eliminated the transfer of heat between the horizontal boards Thermal break. So you have 6.5 r value where there is foam and r1 for where the woood is located. Now going to assume you are going to put in more insulation in where you install your 2 x studs. Blown in cellulose? Cheapest fastest and because of the way this building is designed and constructed it will work as well as most any type of insulation like mineral wool.
Thanks for all your advice
Could you.tell me how much a half Acre of raw land is in your area?
The smaller the acreage the more you have to pay between 1000 and 2000
@@Robinson-Homestead wow that's damn cheap. Here in NC you would pay $8000 for a half acre
My small town here in Florida acreage is about $50k an acre, but I remember about 30 years ago when it was around $1-2k an acre. I sure wish I would have bought a bunch then.
What about the heat/cold transfer on your 1x6? Is this a issue?
Not sure what you mean? 1x6
@@Robinson-Homestead the cross pieces going from post to post
@@kennethhudson8013 I have 6" insulation to go over that.
A lot less itchy than fiberglass!
Thanks for the comment
so.. Kevin I just wanted to say good job but ironically the wood is going to be your weak points here.. wood has an absolutely awful R value when it comes to insulation. However that should help immensely.. i would still (specially if you live in a colder climate) still put some really weak insulation inside the building but its not entirely required. However if I was going to build my place and I could do it while the walls are open.. i would.
Thanks for the comment
Why not spray in foam? There's a eco friendly based spray foam. Please and thank you.
I'm going to use the rockwool insulation much easier for me to work with
What is your total R value going to be?
I think 29.65 R value but 100% for sure.
@@Robinson-Homestead that's not bad at all!
Your meticulous work will surly pay off. You will be able to heat your home with a bic lighter LOL! Thanks for sharing.
Lol I wish that would be nice thanks Gerard.