Do you have a list of components you have purchased for the bike? I'd like to know what bolts/screws you upgraded. I am also interested in your jet kit. Thanks!
Little girls are so cute and so much fun at that age. Pictures of my daughter at that age are my favourites. I found your DR videos very instructional and will benefit me as I dive down the DR650 rabbit hole. Given all the aftermarket kit available the DR650 is to dual sport bikes what the Jeep is to 4x4 trucks.
Very informative video. Would you be able to post a link to that pro cycle adjustable pilot jet. And do you know if it will fit in the stock mikuni on my 94' SE??? Thanks.
Hey. Thank's man from Norway. Greate vid and audio layout! I'm about to clean my rse 1993 carb. My bike runs smooth on idle stand and "un-smooth" warm and down-trottle. Carb has probably not been cleaned ever so.. I will rebuild it with a kit. Stock or jet kit? Any suggestions?
I find that good JIS (Philips head) screwdrivers fit extremely well into all of the Japanese motorcycle screws and seem to almost lock into the screw heads and never cam out (of an undamaged screw). With flats blade screws that are stuck, I use a manual impact driver holding a tight fitting driver head - just one good tap with a medium size ball peen hammer will crack those stuck screws out every time without the blade ever leaving or damaging the screw slot.
The bike was designed so that if you first remove the throttle cables from the carb, all the hoses, loosen the intake manifold boot and air cleaner boot, and slide the carb out of the frame - then the choke 12mm plastic nut at the carb is super easy to get to in order to free the cable and choke plunger assembly from the carb. While the throttle and choke cables are all free, it is a good time to lube them with Cable Life or similar. Finally, actuate the handlebar choke lever - if it feels stiff and difficult to move, remove the friction plug and spring that are captive under the shiny metal keeper plate on the bottom-side of the choke handlebar mechanism. The friction plug and the housing can be cleaned (Q-tips & isopropyl alcohol). The cleaned friction plug and spring (with the tall side of the plug facing forward on the bike) can be temporarily reinstalled and tested by merely compressing the spring rather than tightening the metal plate with the screw (since the choke housing is plastic, be careful when tightening the screw that secures the shiny metal keeper plate). On my son's DR650, his was still very difficult to actuate even with the carb end free and the cable properly lubricated. So I added a small amount of thick grease to the tip of the friction plug. That was the trick, now the handlebar choke feels like I would expect a brand new one to feel - it takes a little effort to move the choke lever, but not super-human strength!
Just asking. I have a 650 and after putting the dominator on it backfires quite a bit. Put a jet kit in thinking that would fix it. Much more power now but still backfires... Any clues?
Hi Kyle, Just bought a 2013 DR650. My bike has a black rubbery gasket between the crank case, cylinder head, etc. It looked like your bike had the same. Was wondering if in fact your bike has it and if our bikes come from Suzuki like that. Great content, thanks
Your life might be easier if you spray the entire thing down with penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench and let it sit a few days before twisting on the screws. It helps me sometime get out broke off screws and studs. sometimes they come right out with a left hand drill bit after a good soaking. .
![Have you seen motor oil this bad?! - DR 650 [1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-WHHfyI7LRc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Have you seen motor oil this bad?! - DR 650 [1]](/img/tr.png)
The star of the show.....your daughter of course :)
You can't get any cuter than that !! Blessings to you and your growing family !!!
Thanks buddy!
Thankyou for the tutorial. Your daughter is adorable
Do you have a list of components you have purchased for the bike? I'd like to know what bolts/screws you upgraded. I am also interested in your jet kit. Thanks!
Little girls are so cute and so much fun at that age. Pictures of my daughter at that age are my favourites. I found your DR videos very instructional and will benefit me as I dive down the DR650 rabbit hole. Given all the aftermarket kit available the DR650 is to dual sport bikes what the Jeep is to 4x4 trucks.
Great video Kyle, nice job on the carbie :-) nice sunny day for Dad time, too cute bro.
You Aussies and your 'carbies'! haha
Can you post the info on the manual pull choke conversion that you mentioned in the video? Thanks
NICE question
Great stuff Kyle
thanks Michael!
Great information there Kyle, you're teaching skills shine through on the tutorial videos.
Thanks man!
Very informative video. Would you be able to post a link to that pro cycle adjustable pilot jet. And do you know if it will fit in the stock mikuni on my 94' SE??? Thanks.
Great video
Hey.
Thank's man from Norway.
Greate vid and audio layout!
I'm about to clean my rse 1993 carb.
My bike runs smooth on idle stand and "un-smooth" warm and down-trottle.
Carb has probably not been cleaned ever so..
I will rebuild it with a kit.
Stock or jet kit?
Any suggestions?
NICE comment and question
Great DR 650 vids man!
You have a very warm personality
NICE comment
I find that good JIS (Philips head) screwdrivers fit extremely well into all of the Japanese motorcycle screws and seem to almost lock into the screw heads and never cam out (of an undamaged screw). With flats blade screws that are stuck, I use a manual impact driver holding a tight fitting driver head - just one good tap with a medium size ball peen hammer will crack those stuck screws out every time without the blade ever leaving or damaging the screw slot.
The bike was designed so that if you first remove the throttle cables from the carb, all the hoses, loosen the intake manifold boot and air cleaner boot, and slide the carb out of the frame - then the choke 12mm plastic nut at the carb is super easy to get to in order to free the cable and choke plunger assembly from the carb. While the throttle and choke cables are all free, it is a good time to lube them with Cable Life or similar. Finally, actuate the handlebar choke lever - if it feels stiff and difficult to move, remove the friction plug and spring that are captive under the shiny metal keeper plate on the bottom-side of the choke handlebar mechanism. The friction plug and the housing can be cleaned (Q-tips & isopropyl alcohol). The cleaned friction plug and spring (with the tall side of the plug facing forward on the bike) can be temporarily reinstalled and tested by merely compressing the spring rather than tightening the metal plate with the screw (since the choke housing is plastic, be careful when tightening the screw that secures the shiny metal keeper plate). On my son's DR650, his was still very difficult to actuate even with the carb end free and the cable properly lubricated. So I added a small amount of thick grease to the tip of the friction plug. That was the trick, now the handlebar choke feels like I would expect a brand new one to feel - it takes a little effort to move the choke lever, but not super-human strength!
A bit of valve lapping compound does wonders for bite on those screw heads.
you sir need a manual impact driver!
Just asking. I have a 650 and after putting the dominator on it backfires quite a bit. Put a jet kit in thinking that would fix it. Much more power now but still backfires... Any clues?
There will be a 'little' more popping over factory setup, but most should be removed with proper air / fuel mix
@@kyle_noseworthy thank you. Maybe I need more air I'm not sure. I do know that at a red light it would shut off. So more fuel right?
Hi Kyle, Just bought a 2013 DR650. My bike has a black rubbery gasket between the crank case, cylinder head, etc. It looked like your bike had the same. Was wondering if in fact your bike has it and if our bikes come from Suzuki like that.
Great content, thanks
They do come from the factory like that. Mine has the same. I got a bit of oil seepage there and will soon redo the gasket with ultra black permatex.
Your life might be easier if you spray the entire thing down with penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench and let it sit a few days before twisting on the screws. It helps me sometime get out broke off screws and studs. sometimes they come right out with a left hand drill bit after a good soaking. .
I have no luck with carburetors! I have tried to rebuild two and neither ran well. I bet you will have better luck. Good video, thanks
Oh really? What are you doing wrong? As long as you put the pieces back in the same spot they were remove, you should be good!
She's a cutie Kyle! Love the content!
Shes gorgeous
be extremely careful with carburetor cleaners and your soft rubber diaphragm . A lot of cleaners will eat or distort the diaphragm
can you please blow your noseworthy holy covid 19 - love the info though - thanks