Yea it reallly is @andrew Roth I have a 99 I did the ear shave but I’m bogging I just seen ya videos with the jets 140 I hav 132 i will try that if you could give me feedback I even have a video on my on my channel
This video honestly was very helpful I just got a Vulcan been sitting for 2 years runs like donkey butt carbs one of the main things I need to do but couldn’t find any good videos cause I’m new to motorcycles and working on them but so far everything’s seems easier than working on cars lol thank you for this video man much love
@@GutterfishNetwork Today is fork and front tire day. I watched a guy change a tire with zip ties and I'll see if it works for me ... I've got spider webs inside the area between the hub and rotor mounts and I'll clean that out. I'll also prep the fork sliders to paint them gloss black ... I have a six pack of Universal Black Duplicolor paint and I need to use it up ...
This carb is a huge pain in the ass. I was able to get mine out without messing with the cooling system at all, and without messing with the handlebar ends of the cables. The absolute hardest part was lifting the surge tank to make enough room to get it out. I ended up wedging a small pry bar to hold it up. Disconnected the cables while the carb was still in. Pretty difficult but less steps. Ever since then, keep seafoam with the gas. I dont want to ever have to clean the carbs again lol
These bikes are absolute nightmares to work on but heres the thing, have a box or tray to put alk your oarts and bolts in or i screw the bolts back into the holes when i can so i dont mix them up. If you take your time you will have the carbs off in less than a half hour, its really not hard just a lot of stuff to get out of the way. Also have a long flat screwdriver or pry bar and dont be afraid to pry off stuck carb boots and connectors
OMG I just bought one and have to clean the carbs. thought it would be much easier than a 4 cylinder, but I was very very wrong :( great how to vid, by the way. my compliments
Thanks for this clear and well-shot video! Gives me the confidence and motivation to clean my own carbs after being lied to by my local Kaw dealer who swore up and down that they wouldn’t take on the job because “you have to remove the engine from the frame to work on the carbs.”
My keihin cv carb on my 89 Harley sportster take about 20 minutes to Remove ! They are the best carbs out there in my opinion, Thats why I am watching this video, I did not know Kawasaki had a bike like this or maybe I just dont remember, But its design is awesome and I bet its a thrill to ride with those twin CV carbs, And yes even mine you have to keep fuel treatment in it all the time, I get the best results from Seafoam and Startron fuel additives, I love seafoam for its upper cylinder lubes and Startron combats ethanol corrosion and keeps system clean. Thanks for sharing video.
First, newer models don't have a prime position on the petcock. You have to have a vacuum source to drain it. On both sides, when you remove the air filter housings, also remove the ducts that connect them to the airbox, what Kawasaki calls the "surge tank". While a proper size Phillips screwdriver will fit most of the screws on the bike, they are not Phillips screws. They are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws, and are slightly different than a Phillips. If you have a tool kit that came with a Japanese bike, it will have at least one JIS screwdriver in it. Before removing the thermostat housing, it is a bit less messy if you drain the coolant from the drain plug on the bottom of the engine. On old hoses that have hardened, using a heat gun will make them easier to remove. Don't use too much heat. Be aware that when you remove the hoses from the two metal elbows that connect to the front and rear cylinder heads, there is a good chance you will cause a leak at the O ring seal on the end of those elbows that fit into the heads. It's a good idea to go ahead and remove those elbows and replace the O rings. Use oem parts. O rings from Home Depot are for plumbing, they are not intended for use on engines. Put some silicone grease on the new O rings before installing the elbows back into the heads. I have converted mine from a dual throttle cable setup to a single cable. I only use the cable that opens the throttle. After removing those rubber elbows that connect the carb inlets to the "surge tank" from the carbs, you need to remove them from the "surge tank" That can be difficult. The ends that go into the surge tank are VERY stiff. You can use a little heat from a heat gun or a blow dryer on them. It also helps to squeeze them right where they go into the surge tank. Some WD-40 will make them slippery and easier to get out. As hard as they are to get out, they are a LOT harder to get back in. Notice that there is a groove in the top of the elbows that holds them into the surge tank. Also notice that there is some extra very stiff rubber above that groove. I took a sharp Xacto knife and trimmed some of the thick rubber off the elbows above that groove, to make them more flexible. Be VERY careful not to cut too far, and damage that groove. Getting rid of that thick stiff rubber ABOVE the groove makes them a LOT easier to get back in. When reinstalling them into the surge tank, spray some WD-40 on them, and carefully squeeze them as you work them back into the surge tank. DO NOT use a screwdriver or any other kind of sharp tool. I found that out the expensive way when I poked a hole right through one of the elbows. You can use a ratchet strap to hold the surge tank up and out of the way, I just used a piece of 1x2 wood wedged between the frame and surge tank to hold it up and out of the way. The choke cable is difficult to remove from the carburetors. Take your time with it. It's hard to describe, just look at it and you can see how it is attached. There is a small white plastic spacer on there that you need to be especially careful not to drop. If you lose it you will have to order a new one. When actually removing the carburetors, the FRONT rubber manifold stays on the cylinder head, and the rear one stays on the carburetor assembly. Do not remove them unless necessary, and if you do, mark them first. They are angled, and it is almost impossible to get them back in exactly the right position without a mark to line them up with. Spray some WD-40 around the ends of the rubber manifolds as you carefully work the carburetors out. Take your time. The carbs come out the right side of the bike. Don't get rough with them. They do slip out, but they have to be positioned exactly right. Removing and reinstalling the carbs on a Vulcan 750 is not an easy job, but many people make it harder than it needs to be by getting frustrated when they don't just come right out, and start fighting with them trying to force them out.
i saw a big long line that sits under the gas tank, cant figure out if it goes to something or it goes to the gas tank, i have a 1989 kawsaki vulcan 750, its my dads im rebuilding it, do you know??
You can also loosen and drop the handlebars which give the cables a little more play to remove regarding the throttle cables. I had to remove them on one bike that I was working on because they had the cable kinked, at first I couldn't tell if it was in the carburetor or throttle side. It did make it easier to take the carbs out. I found it somewhat difficult to remove the throttle cables from the carburetor without having them off. However, on the choke cable, I did not remove it from the handlebar, I simply removed it after I had the carbs tilted. I did not remove the radiator stuff and all that. Yes, it was a nightmare. Carbs come through on the right side. Be careful using the screwdriver the way he did to remove those air boots. They will poke through easy. Spray them down with a little silicone spray to make them a little more pliable. Remember, CARBS COME ON THE RIGHT SIDE!
Hi, I know you did this a year ago but some vids are not step by step for people who want to learn. One question ....you disconected the electrics from under the tank but I have a vent and hose in the same area of the tunnel, does that connect to anything or just vent into the air like the one at the back of the tank ? I'm a complete novice with an 88 vn750. need all the help
Greetings from the icy plains of Canada! You should de goat that thing. Thanks for the video, it's good to see you back!! Too bad you fumbled that tank. Are those skate trainers? I'd give $100 to get my hands on one of those.. Anything!
@@JimNicholsMotorManiaGarage It was not a jerk comment. that is just how YOU are perceiving it. calm down and read it again and you will see that the "lol" means i was typing it light heartedly. SHAKING MY HEAD BACK AT YOU GOOD SIR! lol or "HAHAHA"
10 months later, this is still helping people. Thanks dude!
Yea it reallly is @andrew Roth I have a 99 I did the ear shave but I’m bogging I just seen ya videos with the jets 140 I hav 132 i will try that if you could give me feedback I even have a video on my on my channel
Thanks
Brother I struggled every step of the way with you but thank you so much for walking me through it step by step
This video honestly was very helpful I just got a Vulcan been sitting for 2 years runs like donkey butt carbs one of the main things I need to do but couldn’t find any good videos cause I’m new to motorcycles and working on them but so far everything’s seems easier than working on cars lol thank you for this video man much love
do you know how to connect the petcock?
Thank You! I just bought VN750N for $160 that sat for 8 years. I was on the right track for carb removal, but I needed to see it done.
Me too dude!!! 150$ for a 1990 she a ton of work. But she’s all there. Good Luck
@@GutterfishNetwork Today is fork and front tire day. I watched a guy change a tire with zip ties and I'll see if it works for me ... I've got spider webs inside the area between the hub and rotor mounts and I'll clean that out. I'll also prep the fork sliders to paint them gloss black ... I have a six pack of Universal Black Duplicolor paint and I need to use it up ...
160? As in one sixty hundred dollars or 1600?
This carb is a huge pain in the ass. I was able to get mine out without messing with the cooling system at all, and without messing with the handlebar ends of the cables. The absolute hardest part was lifting the surge tank to make enough room to get it out. I ended up wedging a small pry bar to hold it up. Disconnected the cables while the carb was still in. Pretty difficult but less steps. Ever since then, keep seafoam with the gas. I dont want to ever have to clean the carbs again lol
No reason to relive the nightmare! I know the feeling. Ethanol free gas for me and seafoam. 😎😎😎
just bought a 05 that has been setting in a barn since 2011. about to start the clean up . thanks for a good starting point.
These bikes are absolute nightmares to work on but heres the thing, have a box or tray to put alk your oarts and bolts in or i screw the bolts back into the holes when i can so i dont mix them up. If you take your time you will have the carbs off in less than a half hour, its really not hard just a lot of stuff to get out of the way. Also have a long flat screwdriver or pry bar and dont be afraid to pry off stuck carb boots and connectors
OMG I just bought one and have to clean the carbs. thought it would be much easier than a 4 cylinder, but I was very very wrong :( great how to vid, by the way. my compliments
Do you know how to connect the petcock and gas tank??
Out of all the carb jobs I have done, this was perhaps the most cumbersome one of all time.
Helped me out a lot with the extra steps thanks! Cheers.
Thanks for this clear and well-shot video! Gives me the confidence and motivation to clean my own carbs after being lied to by my local Kaw dealer who swore up and down that they wouldn’t take on the job because “you have to remove the engine from the frame to work on the carbs.”
Thanks Thanks Thanks. That was the best Video for me. You are realy the best Monteur.
My keihin cv carb on my 89 Harley sportster take about 20 minutes to Remove ! They are the best carbs out there in my opinion, Thats why I am watching this video, I did not know Kawasaki had a bike like this or maybe I just dont remember, But its design is awesome and I bet its a thrill to ride with those twin CV carbs, And yes even mine you have to keep fuel treatment in it all the time, I get the best results from Seafoam and Startron fuel additives, I love seafoam for its upper cylinder lubes and Startron combats ethanol corrosion and keeps system clean. Thanks for sharing video.
Why not just use ethanol free gas as a given?
awesome video! my 750 has the exact same paint scheme
Less dents though I bet
First, newer models don't have a prime position on the petcock. You have to have a vacuum source to drain it. On both sides, when you remove the air filter housings, also remove the ducts that connect them to the airbox, what Kawasaki calls the "surge tank". While a proper size Phillips screwdriver will fit most of the screws on the bike, they are not Phillips screws. They are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws, and are slightly different than a Phillips. If you have a tool kit that came with a Japanese bike, it will have at least one JIS screwdriver in it. Before removing the thermostat housing, it is a bit less messy if you drain the coolant from the drain plug on the bottom of the engine. On old hoses that have hardened, using a heat gun will make them easier to remove. Don't use too much heat. Be aware that when you remove the hoses from the two metal elbows that connect to the front and rear cylinder heads, there is a good chance you will cause a leak at the O ring seal on the end of those elbows that fit into the heads. It's a good idea to go ahead and remove those elbows and replace the O rings. Use oem parts. O rings from Home Depot are for plumbing, they are not intended for use on engines. Put some silicone grease on the new O rings before installing the elbows back into the heads.
I have converted mine from a dual throttle cable setup to a single cable. I only use the cable that opens the throttle. After removing those rubber elbows that connect the carb inlets to the "surge tank" from the carbs, you need to remove them from the "surge tank" That can be difficult. The ends that go into the surge tank are VERY stiff. You can use a little heat from a heat gun or a blow dryer on them. It also helps to squeeze them right where they go into the surge tank. Some WD-40 will make them slippery and easier to get out. As hard as they are to get out, they are a LOT harder to get back in. Notice that there is a groove in the top of the elbows that holds them into the surge tank. Also notice that there is some extra very stiff rubber above that groove. I took a sharp Xacto knife and trimmed some of the thick rubber off the elbows above that groove, to make them more flexible. Be VERY careful not to cut too far, and damage that groove. Getting rid of that thick stiff rubber ABOVE the groove makes them a LOT easier to get back in. When reinstalling them into the surge tank, spray some WD-40 on them, and carefully squeeze them as you work them back into the surge tank. DO NOT use a screwdriver or any other kind of sharp tool. I found that out the expensive way when I poked a hole right through one of the elbows.
You can use a ratchet strap to hold the surge tank up and out of the way, I just used a piece of 1x2 wood wedged between the frame and surge tank to hold it up and out of the way. The choke cable is difficult to remove from the carburetors. Take your time with it. It's hard to describe, just look at it and you can see how it is attached. There is a small white plastic spacer on there that you need to be especially careful not to drop. If you lose it you will have to order a new one. When actually removing the carburetors, the FRONT rubber manifold stays on the cylinder head, and the rear one stays on the carburetor assembly. Do not remove them unless necessary, and if you do, mark them first. They are angled, and it is almost impossible to get them back in exactly the right position without a mark to line them up with. Spray some WD-40 around the ends of the rubber manifolds as you carefully work the carburetors out. Take your time. The carbs come out the right side of the bike. Don't get rough with them. They do slip out, but they have to be positioned exactly right. Removing and reinstalling the carbs on a Vulcan 750 is not an easy job, but many people make it harder than it needs to be by getting frustrated when they don't just come right out, and start fighting with them trying to force them out.
Andrew thank you for the content, from Russia! 👍
i saw a big long line that sits under the gas tank, cant figure out if it goes to something or it goes to the gas tank, i have a 1989 kawsaki vulcan 750, its my dads im rebuilding it, do you know??
Definitely doing the ear shave after watching how much the air box restricts the air flow
You can also loosen and drop the handlebars which give the cables a little more play to remove regarding the throttle cables. I had to remove them on one bike that I was working on because they had the cable kinked, at first I couldn't tell if it was in the carburetor or throttle side. It did make it easier to take the carbs out. I found it somewhat difficult to remove the throttle cables from the carburetor without having them off. However, on the choke cable, I did not remove it from the handlebar, I simply removed it after I had the carbs tilted. I did not remove the radiator stuff and all that. Yes, it was a nightmare. Carbs come through on the right side. Be careful using the screwdriver the way he did to remove those air boots. They will poke through easy. Spray them down with a little silicone spray to make them a little more pliable. Remember, CARBS COME ON THE RIGHT SIDE!
If you don't care for the unsightly tank seam on the bottom edge try placing black tape along the seam. It does a great job disguising it.
Hi, I know you did this a year ago but some vids are not step by step for people who want to learn. One question ....you disconected the electrics from under the tank but I have a vent and hose in the same area of the tunnel, does that connect to anything or just vent into the air like the one at the back of the tank ? I'm a complete novice with an 88 vn750. need all the help
Greetings from the icy plains of Canada! You should de goat that thing. Thanks for the video, it's good to see you back!! Too bad you fumbled that tank. Are those skate trainers? I'd give $100 to get my hands on one of those.. Anything!
Great vid!!!
such a helpful video - thank you !!
Great job but what a PIA. Great vid.
Thanks!
Andrew, thanks for this video. Very helpful. Did you also make a video of you putting this "nightmare" back together?
Thanks. Not yet, it's still in pieces in my garage. Not ideal, but I got caught up with other projects.
Thank you for the reply.
Followed this video and now I'm trying to get it back in. But the intake hoses won't reconnect to the intake box.....
I had to fold them in on themselves to get them inside, then adjust with flat blade screwdriver to get the flanges seated.
I’m about to sell my 2006 Vulcan, because I don’t want to attempt this. I also don’t want to pay to have someone else do it.
I don't blame you.
I also found out it is not easy.
what year is the bike?
1985
@@Garage_Tinkerer mins a 99 think it's close enough?
@@jacbalson Yep, pretty much all the same.
Putting it on is somehow even harder FYI…
I can get.👍 oh and I'm shit at using computers too. Thanks. 🇬🇧
The stock air flow system is a massive pain in the butt.. So much better to remove it all and give it the ear shave.
I had the earshave for a while, but I couldn't get get decent fuel economy. It also suffered performance wise in windy conditions.
@@Garage_Tinkerer 😢 . What jet size did you use? I use 40 and 140, with 2 needle shims and 2 1/4 turn on the mixture screw. I find this runs ok.
WOW...
I THINK ILL LET MY MOTHER DO MY BIKE...
you did soooo much more then you needed to, to take those off lol .... just fyi
Just did it by the book is all.
That's a jerk comment AEH. Nothing constructive, no advice, nothing positive to add... SMH
@@JimNicholsMotorManiaGarage It was not a jerk comment. that is just how YOU are perceiving it. calm down and read it again and you will see that the "lol" means i was typing it light heartedly. SHAKING MY HEAD BACK AT YOU GOOD SIR! lol or "HAHAHA"
@@EAGLEHORDER I know what "lol" means... And I stand by my comment.
@@JimNicholsMotorManiaGarage then you sir, are an idiot. AND I APPROVE THIS COMMENT! LOL
Its the worst bike to work! 🤦🤬 I Hate It!
Sugeito atrapalhado quase desmontou a moto inteira
OK