Do you NEED a secondary fermenter? | Homebrew Academy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
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This is how every home brewer I know in Australia does it. We very rarely use secondary here
Yeah I was thinking that, I just bottle and I thought that was secondary haha
Your 3 minute video explained everything better than my one day of reading. Ha!
I’ve been doing arbitrary 30 day fermentations with no racking into a secondary and having absolutely phenomenal results
John Palmer covered this a few years back.
I Carefully rack into a bottling bucket and proceed to bottle with no off flavors or issues and as always you have to be careful of sanitation - oxygen is not your friend at this point -
My beers are crystal clear in the bottle from the start with a scant amount of yeast in the bottom and can be drunk completely straight from the bottle
I guess other peoples mileage may vary, but I’ve had a phenomenal response using this technique. I would highly recommend it read John Palmer for a great introduction to the theory.
I have been brewing quality beers for many years now. It is very rare that I use a secondary. The only time I use a secondary is when I use certain fruits and sometimes they don't sink even after cold crashing, then I will go ahead with a secondary. Keep in mind, a secondary is not for further fermentation, its for mainly clearing stubborn floaties. Now, fruit wines are a little different, depends what fruits are being used.
Hi, great explanation, this makes a lot of sense, going forward I will go to 3 weeks only primary fermentation. Thank you
This answers all my questions. My brewing just got easier.
Thanks my man!
100%-- however I will rack off my mead. I would consider a long primary with a 1,2-3 week finish with a specific target flavor profile-(oak, bourbon-fruit) GREAT VIDEO !!
i mean i dont NEED this to be 720p but damn lol good stuff still :)
why is this at 240p? its 2020
wrong export setting? at least the audio is still clear
In the UK we bottle or barrel once it stops making bubbles in the fermentation container.keep it simple and give it 2 weeks to carbonate.Chill then drink.
Hi
I have been brewing successfully for last eight months. I live in Cholistan desert in Pakistan (close to Indian border), our summers are very long and harsh, the temperature reaches up to 50 degrees celsius. During, my previous homebrewing experiences (wine/beers), the fermentation process ended in 17 - 19 days during summers. Winters are short but night time temperature drops a lot, this morning (December 14) when I checked my beer, there are very few bubbles, or I can say almost no fermentation, while it is only the 10th day today.
I need to mention in the past, whether I brewed 5 liters, 7 or 10 liters, I have always used the dry yeast sachet of 10 grams regardless the quantity of liquid, but this time I have brewed 20 liters of beer and the amount of yeast I added was still the same (10 g pack). But anyway as it is the mid of winters and the temperature yesterday during the day time was 9 degrees c and during the night it was -1 last night so I need to ask:
If this quicker completion of fermentation process is due to colder weather?
Is it due to larger amount of liquid (20 liters) and less yeast (10 g)?
Or shall I add some more yeast while the brew is already 10 days older?
I thank you in advance, and hope that you would be able to answer as soon as you could.
(whatsapp +923007003492)
FOCUS!
Nice, eloquent.
I literally thought my internet was broken watching this video
I've been brewing ciders recently and i think this is the PERFECT video! They were "done" after about 7 days, and i bottled right away! They taste much better now that they;ve been sitting in bottles for about 6 weeks or so though!
I think in future i'm going to let it sit in primary for a bit longer and MAYBE rack it to bulk age!
thank you very much for this
i will try!
Hi buddy! Always used a secondary, just before 'primary' fermentation' was over, added finings and an airlock to ensure the oxygen is still driven out and to ensure a clear beer at kegging / bottling. I've consistently produced clean crystal beers and have never had any problems with oxidation or infection as I'm fastidious about sanitisation. I have adopted your suggested method, as wow, it saves a shed load of time, and whilst I get no change to the flavour profile, I'm getting hazy beers which take much longer to drop clear, and never quite so crystal as before, unless I leave them for an age, in which time, I get fairly thirsty! Furthermore, I can only cold crash in winter /spring as my wife largely objects to the fridge being full of kegs. The grief I et from packets of hops is bad enough! So the solution must be to add finings, but when? At which point would you add finings (without letting oxygen in) to get that clean crystal lovely beer we are all dreaming of? At some point during fermentation, at bottling or casking, or never? Your thoughts and advice would be really appreciated!
Extremely informative video ,, thanks dude
I found that double filtering through soda kegs will remove all sediments.
Simple n informative 👍
no secondary? so from primary straight to drinking?
I had a stack fermentation and after moving to secondary it restarted and finished to low gravity as planned; maybe I didn't oxygenate it enough
Why do you switch to secondary when adding fruit or dry hopping? I’m about to brew my first wheat beer and I’m planning to add freezedried raspberries after about 1-2 weeks of primary fermentation.
Secondary fermentation takes place when conversion occurs. The reason secondary fermentation doesn't take place in homebrew is due to the conversion rest being omitted from homebrew recipes. The conversion rest is omitted because another step is required, more expensive brewers grade, malt is needed, the fermentation cycle is extended a week to two weeks, and a secondary fermenter is needed, all of which, go against the idea homebrewers have that ale can be produced quickly and with plastic buckets. The part about oxidation and infection are true, but they occur because the homebrew method produces extract with the right nutrients in it that Gram-N and Gram-P bacteria thrive on. The oxidation part is a given because nothing that a homebrewer does lessens the risk of oxidation. It starts during mashing when the malt is added to oxygenated water and when evil, dough balls are flogged and continues when hot extract is slopped into a vessel. In the homebrew method mash isn't boiled, boiling de-aerates mash and stabilizes the extract.
Yeast works differently on the types of complex sugar that form during conversion than it works on simple sugar, glucose. Glucose is responsible for primary fermentation. An enzyme within yeast converts maltose formed by Beta during conversion back into glucose during secondary fermentation. When conversion occurs beer doesn't require priming sugar or CO2 to carbonate. Beer naturally carbonates during conditioning due to maltotriose formed during conversion. Natural carbonation is much finer than bubbles made from artificial means. Leaving beer on yeast and trub causes issues, regardless, of what homebrew books say about it. The negative impact caused by yeast metabolizing trub isn't noticed in homebrew because the beer is artificially carbonated and pounded down when it is still green. The statement about trub being beneficial for yeast left out 100 pages that went with statement that mentions what takes place before yeast reaches the beneficial element in trub. The only time yeast works on trub happens when extract is chemically imbalanced and lacking in nutrients. The element is beneficial to yeast only during reproduction and when yeast works on trub, reproduction cycle is long gone. Yeast autolyzes. The stories about brewers, back in the day, using crappy yeast and crappy malt are BS. The stories only lead people to believe that anything goes in homebrewing and that brewers, back in the day, were dolts and dullards.
The single temperature infusion brewing method and high modified, malt are used in grain distillation. The liquid produced from the method is called distillers beer, the slang term is moonshiners beer. Someone, convinced you that distillers beer and ale are the same liquids, they aren't. It is chemically and enzymatically impossible to produce ale and lager by soaking malt in water at one temperature. To produce ale and lager with the homebrew method, malt would need to contain magical properties in order for low temperature activated enzymes to work at a single, high temperature without denaturing, which is impossible. Strike and target temperature are meaningless when producing ale due to the way that enzymes function. The homebrew method produces chemically imbalanced, sugar imbalanced, unstable, extract and when yeast is add off flavors develop during fermentation and conditioning. The shelf life of homebrew is short due to the low quality of the extract.
An entirely different brewing method and under modified, low protein, malt are used for producing ale and lager. Weyermann floor malt and Gladfield's, American Malt are under modified. Under modified, malt is much richer in enzyme content than high modified, homebrew, malt. To take advantage of the rich malt, at the least, a step mashing method should be used. To take full advantage of the malt a triple decoction method is used. A spec sheet comes with each bag of malt which is used to determine the quality of malt before it is purchased. Click on Gladfield's website and find American Malt, on the page is a spec sheet for the malt. Part way down on the sheet is Kolbach. The Kolbach number indicates level of modification. Malt with 40 Kolbach and lower is under modified. The protein content in malt should be less than 10 percent. The less protein, the more sugar. Homebrew malt is 42 to 46 Kolbach and 12 to 16 percent protein. The higher the Kolbach number, the less suitable the malt is for producing ale and lager. The malt contains mostly Alpha, it is deficient in enzymes needed to produce ale and lager. The malt is less expensive than brewers grade malt and it is used for making whiskey. Marris Otter, Halcyon and Golden Promise are high quality, distillers, malt.
This is the way it works during mashing. Alpha activates and begins to liquefy 1-4 links in the amylose starch chain. When the link is liquefied two chains form, one chain is called the reducing end the other chain is the nonreducing end. The reducing end contains 1-4 links which Alpha continues to liquefy until all of the links are liquefied and when that happens, sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar remain. The nonreducing end is simple sugar, glucose. The only purpose of Alpha is to release glucose, one of three building blocks of life, from starch. At 150F Alpha releases the highest amount of glucose from starch within an hour. The more glucose, the more alcohol. A distiller uses the temperature for that reason. Also, the high temperature denatures Beta. Beta is purposely denatured because the enzyme adds a week to two weeks onto their schedule and the types of sugar formed by Beta aren't needed for making whiskey.
Beta is responsible for conversion, 140F. Beta converts glucose into maltose and maltotriose during conversion, which are the types of sugar that produces ale and lager.
There's a type of heat resistant, complex starch in malt called amylopectin. The starch makes up the tips of malt and it is the richest starch in malt. Contained within amylopectin are A and B limit dextrin's, which are tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar responsible for body and mouthfeel in beer. The temperatures used to make home made distillers beer aren't high enough to cause the starch to burst before Alpha denatures and the richest starch in malt is thrown out with the spent mash, paid for. Pretty awesome, right? The finest beer is produced from dextrinous extract, not from extract containing mainly sweet sugar and glucose. To take advantage of the rich starch, mash is boiled. When Alpha liquefies amylopectin, dextrinization and gelatinization occur. The only time dextrinization occurs in the homebrew method happens when amylose contains a 1-6 link in the starch chain, which is extremely, rare. A distiller has no need for amylopectin and sells it, maltodextrin is made from the starch.
To begin learning how ale and lager are produced start with deClerks books, the books cost about 175 bucks. The best books are Wulf's 1958 and 1959 journals, the books cost about 2000 bucks. Abstracts from the IOB are free, online. In the 19th century the IOB made malt, modern. The IOB, EBC and MBAC are testing agencies that performs tests on malt, yeast and fermentation. They produce the malt spec sheet. There aren't any experiments that a homebrewer can perform that haven't already been performed. Homebrew experiments, such as, fast lagering are misleading, besides, the experiment is performed on glucose laden distillers beer which has no connection with lager and ferments quickly, anyway.
I guess I will stop making delicious homemade beer on my stove now
It must all be my imagination
I’ve aged some of my home brews for over a year and they were exceptionally delicious
Must of been my imagination
I bet you’re a whole lot of fun at parties
#Homebrew Academy
Thank you! Is this advice applicable only for beers, or it is possible also for cider making? Does cider needs a secondary fermentation? I ask for big fermentors, for 1000 litters. It is hard to rack 1000 l of cider and it is a little bit risky.
Thank you!
what about mead and wine where these solids in the fermenter
Hi! I was wondering if I should bother with a secondary fermentation when brewing an altbier. I'll be starting on it as my very first brew in january next year and the recipe calls for 1-2 weeks of fermentation at 60-70F before lagering at 30-40F for 3-4 weeks. Should I do a transfer to a secondary vessel for that lagering process? Thanks!
Fuck secondary fermentation. Too much hassle for fuck all of a difference. Just leave it in the primary a little longer. Good things come to those who wait. 😃
Can I dry hop (pellet) and put fruits/ oak/ spices into my primary and let it continue to do its job there?
i also would like to know this!
@@AlexSpetz from what i did yes you can. i have never do any secondary fermentation. all adjunks i add into primary, no problem. if you are washing your yeast for re-use for next batch, i just make sure that i wash it 'cleanly' with water. even if it is not so clean, it wont affect much on your next batch. so brew away
@@user-mr9tw6dj6h cheers for the reply! How soon into fermentation have you been adding fruits/flavourings?
@@AlexSpetz i hv done it 3 times. they say adding in after initial fermentation died down will allow the yeast to do the work better. but my orange pale ale seem to get good result even when i add in the fruit and peel and coriander seeds right after i pitch the yeast. so i have no experience yet in comparing which is better
I think that the vast majority of brewers are already on board with this and don't bother with a secondary and rightly so its pointless! I'm liking the content but whats up with the video resolution on this?
That bad 16bit resolution was the first thing I noticed but the content was so good that I too had to Like. :)
The vast majority of brewers that agree have no idea about how ale and lager are produced. Homebrew instruction leave that part out. The method taught to homebrewers to make ale with omits the step that has to be used in order for secondary fermentation to occur. Without the step, ale and lager cannot be produced. Moonshiners beer is made by soaking malt in hot water at one temperature. Moonshiners beer and ale are entirely different liquids, but you aren't aware of that due to lack of training.
recorded on a potato?
Things always have an ability to change
There needs to be more people like this who are contributing to the science and the hypotenuse is because no science is proven all science is a bunch of hypot nooses and people thinking one thing or another