I know this is an older video, but I wanted to share how I did mine. I have an '06 Grand Cherokee 3.7 and just replaced my rear hubs after 219K miles. There is no reason to mess with the speed sensor or the parking brake shoes. Pull the caliper & rotor. Remove the 4- 18mm nuts holding the hub, tap the hub out. You can get it out about 3/8". Then, hit the caliper bracket, and then the brake shoes ( put a piece of wood over the shoes so you are not hitting them directly). This will separate the backing plate and dust shield from the hub. Then remove the hub. Don't worry about the o- ring, it will come apart, and yoou will be replacing it anyway. Then put the new o-ring over the axle shaft, install the new hub onto the backing plate and install the o-ring. Then slide the hub on to the axle, bolt it up, then install the rotor and the caliper. I did both of mine in a little over of an hour. Really a time saver!
Mike Sellitto is that o ring what keeps the diff fluid in the diff or is it the actual hub? I ask because I’ve got diff fluid leaking onto my parking brake shoes and onto the inside of my wheel.
Great video. I did my rear hubs yesterday and your video was very helpful. Found that I had to take off the parking brakes to pull the hub. It was fairly easy. Used a needle nose vice grip to reinstall the parking brake springs. Worked well. On the cost of the hubs, you get what you pay. The less expensive hub/bearing assemblies are made from a lower grade of steel with broader tolerances. That makes them real inexpensive to produce and allows the auto stores to get a tremendous profit margin. You may get 30,000 miles before having to replace them again.
Installed the new hub and still have the noise. Been doing some research and it seems to be the bearings in the rear differential, the pinion bearing or the inner side bearings will have to do all and buy the kit.This is something that I don't want to do myself and have to bring it to a mechanic and spend $500-$1000. Still seems strange to me that the noise is definitely coming from the right rear, and not the middle rear of the car. Definitely the hardest part of the hub replacement was putting the emergency brake parts back together. Thank You again for a great video!!
Yeah the emergency brake sucked ass...LOL Yeah sucks about the pinion bearing or one of the inner sides. Seems like if the rear axle might be out for tat do all of them just to have them done they probably will charge a little more but hell I myself rather pay $300 more then pay another $1,000. Find a small shop and have them do it.
I agree mike, I have a 2006 commander. My axle shaft is chewing up the inside of my hub. Two months later I'm doing it again. Why is my shaft tearing the teeth out mu hub.
Just bought the same product for my commander, that I will be doing this Sunday. Just wondering are the hubs still working good, any noise from them? Thank You
Was the old bearing the cause of the noises? I have a 2005 WK as well and my front right wheel is making a constant rubbing/whirring noise with vibration when I go over 25 mph. I'm going to replace both front wheel hubs at the same time to see if that will fix the noise/vibration. Great videos by the way. No one seems to post much about the 2005 WKs.
First off great video! Detailed and well documented. I have question as far as the events leading up to the replacement. I have the humming/whirring noise also and I changed the front 2 after each threw an abs code for them. The noise definatley reduced but its still there. It seems like the noise is in the back now but when i noticed the fronts, while turning, the noise seemed louder. this time its not such a big difference from going straight but sometimes while on a long, significant turn it almost feels lock the rear diff is locking or stuttering for a quick second. unlike when the codes for the fronts came on, it flashes the traction control (yellow car swirving or burning out lol) light when it "locks" and when I come out of the turn and going straight or let off the gas during the turn, it stops. Was yours doing anything like this?
Not sure, probably best to take it in to a place that does free looks and see what they say then decide worth your time fixing or paying them to get it done.
Meeker Extreme did yours ever throw an abs code? it self clears on mine but abs, traction control, ans esc i think come on. i know there is 3. my scanner says irratic signal from right rear wheel speed sensor or something like that. was it a code orjust the humming?
I have an 05 grand cherokee. about to have my hubs changed.. wondering though.. I've checked with a lot of places for pricing on labor and everyone wanted to charge over $300 because they said they had to drop the rearend... can you answer this?
there was a little bit of play. it should be tight with no play. I think all the aftermarket axle shafts are made slightly smaller causing this. napa doesn't list a shaft in its inventory. so I ended up going to the jeep dealer that was 183 dollars. not much more expensive.
Glad I found your video, because the Stealership wanted almost $700 to replace the outer seal and another $600 to replace a "bent axle" on my 07 WK. Thing is, the WK uses these hub-assemblies and not pressed-on seals and bearings, so I paid about $250 and replaced BOTH hub assemblies AND the parking brake with help from this video. Still had to go to the dealer for those inner o-rings, though; hubs didn't include new ones and one of them was shredded, so I replaced them both. That parking brake was the worst part--made worse my my attempt to put the return-spring in the wrong place, but I got it together with minimal cursing. And that bent axle? I'm pretty sure he was blowing smoke. There was a little bit of wobble, but I think it was because the bearing seal had failed, and it's running true now.
Anybody help me out? The rubber seal on the back of the hub...is that what keeps the diff oil in? I have a light leak. I was told I need to take the whole shaft out to replace the axle seal. Jeep shows that little rubber seal. I didn't see much of or any fluid come out? Any help would be great appreciated.
fliboimoney yeah same here. I don't see any other deal other than that o-ring. I replaced that o-ring and I've still got a leak. I didn't believe that this o-ring was meant to keep the diff fluid in the axle.
Are you fricking serious! It literally just pulls right off, it's not a hard thing to do. I didn't show because I had two hands on the job but I tell you it comes right apart it slide right off.
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I'm doing the same job how did you get the hub off the half shaft ( the splined end) I'm having a heck of a time with that
I ended up drilling through the cap on the outside of the hub used a punch and gave it a couple taps slid right out no problem
I know this is an older video, but I wanted to share how I did mine. I have an '06 Grand Cherokee 3.7 and just replaced my rear hubs after 219K miles. There is no reason to mess with the speed sensor or the parking brake shoes. Pull the caliper & rotor. Remove the 4- 18mm nuts holding the hub, tap the hub out. You can get it out about 3/8". Then, hit the caliper bracket, and then the brake shoes ( put a piece of wood over the shoes so you are not hitting them directly). This will separate the backing plate and dust shield from the hub. Then remove the hub. Don't worry about the o- ring, it will come apart, and yoou will be replacing it anyway. Then put the new o-ring over the axle shaft, install the new hub onto the backing plate and install the o-ring. Then slide the hub on to the axle, bolt it up, then install the rotor and the caliper. I did both of mine in a little over of an hour. Really a time saver!
Mike Sellitto is that o ring what keeps the diff fluid in the diff or is it the actual hub? I ask because I’ve got diff fluid leaking onto my parking brake shoes and onto the inside of my wheel.
@@cyprianoldakowski3518 did you ever figure it out mine is leaking as well
@@cyprianoldakowski3518 Yes that's correct
@@benmendoza5194 Yes that O-ring is the cause of the leak
Great video. I did my rear hubs yesterday and your video was very helpful. Found that I had to take off the parking brakes to pull the hub. It was fairly easy. Used a needle nose vice grip to reinstall the parking brake springs. Worked well. On the cost of the hubs, you get what you pay. The less expensive hub/bearing assemblies are made from a lower grade of steel with broader tolerances. That makes them real inexpensive to produce and allows the auto stores to get a tremendous profit margin. You may get 30,000 miles before having to replace them again.
Less commentary, more action! 2 complete videos without taking a bolt off, come on my guy.
Old video, but hey you commented on something old...congratulations
Thanks! Great video. I have the same Jeep and I'll be replacing the wheel bearings this weekend. Your video was a big help!
Great to hear!
Installed the new hub and still have the noise. Been doing some research and it seems to be the bearings in the rear differential, the pinion bearing or the inner side bearings will have to do all and buy the kit.This is something that I don't want to do myself and have to bring it to a mechanic and spend $500-$1000. Still seems strange to me that the noise is definitely coming from the right rear, and not the middle rear of the car. Definitely the hardest part of the hub replacement was putting the emergency brake parts back together. Thank You again for a great video!!
Yeah the emergency brake sucked ass...LOL Yeah sucks about the pinion bearing or one of the inner sides. Seems like if the rear axle might be out for tat do all of them just to have them done they probably will charge a little more but hell I myself rather pay $300 more then pay another $1,000. Find a small shop and have them do it.
I agree mike, I have a 2006 commander. My axle shaft is chewing up the inside of my hub. Two months later I'm doing it again. Why is my shaft tearing the teeth out mu hub.
Just bought the same product for my commander, that I will be doing this Sunday. Just wondering are the hubs still working good, any noise from them? Thank You
They are all fine actually. No problems.
Did the whole axle pull out? My splined end seems to be stuck in my hub and im affraid to pull to hard and pull the axle out......
Sorry I don't remember
Was that the tone ring connected to the wheel bearing that the abs sensor reads ??
Was the old bearing the cause of the noises? I have a 2005 WK as well and my front right wheel is making a constant rubbing/whirring noise with vibration when I go over 25 mph. I'm going to replace both front wheel hubs at the same time to see if that will fix the noise/vibration. Great videos by the way. No one seems to post much about the 2005 WKs.
PS -- I assume the rear hubs are 4-bolt and the front hubs are 3-bolt. Are you able to confirm this? I can't seem to find anything online otherwise.
+Matthew Lloyd (Vaettr) Yeah, 3 bolts: th-cam.com/video/1Yz3xo8-pAE/w-d-xo.html
+Matthew Lloyd (Vaettr) Yes, because now no noise.
First off great video! Detailed and well documented. I have question as far as the events leading up to the replacement. I have the humming/whirring noise also and I changed the front 2 after each threw an abs code for them. The noise definatley reduced but its still there. It seems like the noise is in the back now but when i noticed the fronts, while turning, the noise seemed louder. this time its not such a big difference from going straight but sometimes while on a long, significant turn it almost feels lock the rear diff is locking or stuttering for a quick second. unlike when the codes for the fronts came on, it flashes the traction control (yellow car swirving or burning out lol) light when it "locks" and when I come out of the turn and going straight or let off the gas during the turn, it stops. Was yours doing anything like this?
Not sure, probably best to take it in to a place that does free looks and see what they say then decide worth your time fixing or paying them to get it done.
Meeker Extreme did yours ever throw an abs code? it self clears on mine but abs, traction control, ans esc i think come on. i know there is 3. my scanner says irratic signal from right rear wheel speed sensor or something like that. was it a code orjust the humming?
No I never had a code, but you can get the senors on rock auto. Could be a bad sensor.
I have an 05 grand cherokee. about to have my hubs changed.. wondering though.. I've checked with a lot of places for pricing on labor and everyone wanted to charge over $300 because they said they had to drop the rearend... can you answer this?
As you see I didn't drop the rearend...not sure why they would drop the rearend!
you don't have to remove the hold down spring.
Do I need to take the axle out when I disassemble the hub
Been a long time since I did this one. I don't recall.
there was a little bit of play. it should be tight with no play. I think all the aftermarket axle shafts are made slightly smaller causing this. napa doesn't list a shaft in its inventory. so I ended up going to the jeep dealer that was 183 dollars. not much more expensive.
Glad I found your video, because the Stealership wanted almost $700 to replace the outer seal and another $600 to replace a "bent axle" on my 07 WK. Thing is, the WK uses these hub-assemblies and not pressed-on seals and bearings, so I paid about $250 and replaced BOTH hub assemblies AND the parking brake with help from this video. Still had to go to the dealer for those inner o-rings, though; hubs didn't include new ones and one of them was shredded, so I replaced them both. That parking brake was the worst part--made worse my my attempt to put the return-spring in the wrong place, but I got it together with minimal cursing.
And that bent axle? I'm pretty sure he was blowing smoke. There was a little bit of wobble, but I think it was because the bearing seal had failed, and it's running true now.
Yeah dealers will milk as much as they can. Best bet is a good Ma & Pa service place but even those can be iffy.
Hi, any torq specs for the bearing nuts? I have a wk2 and I think the process might be the same. Thanks for the vid.
Sorry I don't know it, I just tightened it...LOL
Anybody help me out? The rubber seal on the back of the hub...is that what keeps the diff oil in? I have a light leak. I was told I need to take the whole shaft out to replace the axle seal. Jeep shows that little rubber seal. I didn't see much of or any fluid come out? Any help would be great appreciated.
fliboimoney yeah same here. I don't see any other deal other than that o-ring. I replaced that o-ring and I've still got a leak. I didn't believe that this o-ring was meant to keep the diff fluid in the axle.
you doing too much work to remove the axle bearing, don't touch the parking brake at all.
Why
Are you fricking serious!!!! Show how you separated from the shaft!
Are you fricking serious! It literally just pulls right off, it's not a hard thing to do. I didn't show because I had two hands on the job but I tell you it comes right apart it slide right off.