Your tape path cleaning is so emotionally rewarding to anyone who performs this procedure! Also, at 13:30, the apparent origin of "sqeaky clean" is self-evident. Thank you Dr. Cassette.
Nice work as usual! I found with the more aggressive contact cleaners, they sometimes dissolve parts of the plastic from the spray caps, that might be why the liquid looked a bit red. Had the same effect with another brand of contact cleaner after I had it sitting unused for a while. Didn't seem to affect the contact cleaner in any way apart from the slight discoloration though. Interesting that the lighter fluid did such a good job. I might try that in the future. I am always very hesitant about using any chemicals at all on the pinch rollers.
legend has it that if an american (like me) owns one of these and pronounces the name poorly, dr. cassette will swoop in during the night and repossess it!
DrCassette, may I kindly suggest you use potentiometer cleaner. Or maybe not all are the same...I am using, altough not often as you, of course, MA potentiometer cleaner. I have "repaired" some scratchy pots and a recording switch as well. The main difference from a contact cleaner is that it leaves a somewhat oily residue which not only lubricates the switch but it also acts as a protective pelicule and keeps the oxide forming. To be honest I have not used another type of potentiometer cleaner as I have this bottle for 2 years and is half empty. But the reason I have tried it is that the contact cleaner made had the same issue when spraying an old Sharp personal cassette player volume pot. i am sorry that I cannot insert the image here. It was also very cheap, 4 Euro's in Romania
That's the exact same deck I used to own in the 80's, a great deck, but what I found is that it used to run a bit slower (or faster?) than other decks, I noticed it when playing back on other decks
Hi Dr! I've just gotten this deck from eBay and I was surprised at how good it sounds! This thing easily beats my 3 head direct drive Onkyo TA 2060 which is a shocking revelation.
Gotta tell you i have this deck, a technics az 6,and a sony tc kb920s all in like new condition. The sound quality of this Telefunken beats the crap out of the other two
Interesting method to restore the record/play switch. However, as these switches are not available anymore, in many cases it is needed to remove the switch and dismantle it to check how good the contacts are and clean them manualy one by one. The TC450 is worth being repaired. This models from Telefunken were among the first ones to be capable of recording tapes with high frequencies reaching up to 18khs and above, a truly remarkable achievement for that time.
A Telefunken TC 450 over here is worth maybe 30€. That is not what I consider worth the effort of completely removing and disassembling the record/play switches. Sorry.
I've been using the same method for decades. It's unreliable, but it'll work eventually. Good if you need the machine to be working now. Like if it's the bottom machine in a tower or something. If it goes on my nerves enough or someone wants it, then I dismantle the switch and clean the contacts one by one. By now I take about an hour for the complete process (plus an hour to disassemble the machine to get to the switch and reassemble it back afterwards)
Yes, your are completely right if we take into account only the price of the equipment now. I was talking about the personal value of preserving the memory and history of the cassette decks. The majority of the models of the same era are not worth the effort to preserve them, in my opinion, because they were too bad even in those times. It´s not the case of this Telefunken, that was among the first ones to reach high frequencies as high as 18 to 20 kHz, a tremendous achievement in the 70s.
Be careful with Kontakt WL. Contrary to what one might expect, it’s not a “neutral” liquid. It aggressively corrodes plastics, particularly those types that where surface-treated and widely used in the early 90s as cases for Walkmans or other stereo equipment.
In various online forums I read that Kontakt 60 can be washed out either with IPA or WL. I have found that in most applications I used to use WL for, IPA works just as well, while being cheaper and causing less of a mess. So one reason I chose to use WL was actually because it seemed like a way to finally use up the can of WL that has been sitting around for ages and that has lost all of its pressure. What a bad idea that was. It took ages to clean out the WL with IPA afterwards...
@@DrCassette Maybe the WL had aged in the can, too? I've never heard of the IPA trick, but if it works, all the better. I also never had issues with WL - aside from it being corrosive and me learning too late. Well...
I have seen a trick where someone used the car tire nipple, pulled off the cap from the can with no pressure and placed the tire nipple over it and put pressure back into the can with the compressor! I haven't tried it myself but I have remembered it just in case I ever run into the same problem again for which I have in the past but didn't know about this particular trick... Great job on the cassette deck! I still have yet to come across a HiCom machine in Australia! I would love to know how it sounds compared to Dolby or JVC's noise reduction...
The most reliable technique to clean switches is to use Kontakt WL or Tuner 600 to flush the particular control then blowing it dry with compressed air. Afterwards you use 1-3x squirts Teslanol T6 Oszillin, then just a little compressed air. Finally some Deoxit D100 or White grease Spray to seal and just a tad compressed air. Also don't forget working the control back and forth at least 10 to 20 times. If come to this conclusing after 6 years of Repairing audio gear and working at a professional repair shop for some time. Although if you have the time and patience disassembling and cleaning manually is always the best option.
Ajax Soap works well to clean rubber parts in tape decks. Seized mechanical parts can be made movable by heating them with a hair dryer, then some Kontakt WL. Afterwards some mechanical oil.
Hallole! Das Kontakt60 benutze ich seit 30Jahren nicht mehr! Das ist der Poti- und Kontaktekiller schlechthin! Auch nach dem spülen hat das munter weiter gefressen. Leider wird das auch heute noch häufig benutzt. Die Freude ist groß wenn nach der Anwendung alles wieder funktioniert; die Enttäuschung groß wenn nach einigen Monaten der Totalausfall kommt. Reinigen mit Alkohol, wenns dann nicht funktioniert die Kontaktleiste demontieren und zerlegen, Ultraschallreinigen, spülen mit Wasser anschließend mit Kontaktfett wieder zusammen bauen. Bei hartnäckiger Korrosion vor dem Ultraschallbad mit Messingpinsel oder Glasfaserstift reinigen. P.S: Das TC450 hab ich auch! 🙂
Kontakt 60 nutze ich nur, wenn Tuner 600 keine guten/dauerhaften Ergebnisse liefert, und natürlich nur in Schaltern, in Potis hat das nichts verloren, das ist mir wohl klar. Die lassen sich ja auch noch halbwegs gut zerlegen für eine gründlichere Reinigung. Bei komplexen Schaltern kommt das für mich nicht in Frage. Es ist ein irrsinniger Zeitaufwand, und wenn man Pech hat hält solch eine aufwändige Reinigung kaum ein Jahr, dann geht es von vorne los.
@@DrCassette Das Problem ist halt folgendes: Im zusammengebauten Zustand sprüht man in der Regel immer durch Ritzen oder kleine Löcher/Öffnungen. Da kann man spülen wie man will, man bekommt nie alles raus! Deswegen zerlege ich Schalter und Potis wenn man mit Ethanol oder Propanol nichts erreicht; im zerlegten Zustand kommt man überall hin! 🙂 Je nach Material kann man auch das aggressivere Aceton oder Butanol verwenden; allerdings vertragen das einige Kunsstoffe nicht.
Very nice Job DrC! One thing about cleaning the heads with IPA. I've got one case where erase head after cleaning it with the IPA got melted when the IPA started to vaporize. Finally the head surface got pretty much rought and it was needed to be replaced to avoid damaging the tapes. I've Had this in Grundig radiorecorder unit, probably RR 450 model iirc. I don't know from what material it was made, but the color of it was dark brown and it didn't like the IPA at all :). Best regards.
For some time Philips made erase heads that cause lots of problems. In some cases I have had, the surface had turned rough as you described, in one case part of the head had melted, so there was a sticky mess and metal components of the head were sticking out at the front. I would assume Grundig used one of these strange Philips erase heads.
@@DrCassette You are right! And I finally remind which model of Grundig radiorecorder it was. It was RR 3000 with Philips mechanism, same as in famous Philips D8614 model.
hello, I'm from Brazil and I have a tc 400, the model is a little different but the mechanism seems to be the same. Here finding quality belts is a difficult task and the original one is "skating", I put one that I found here and the flutter is horrible. I would like to know if there is any place that sells belts for this mechanism of good quality. Big hug
If I’d only had waited a week with working on my technics RS-M205 deck. It had a weird issue with the recording (the VU meters would hardly move whilst recording) and it produced a high pitch sawtooth tone when recording. It seems it had a dirty record/play switch as well. I cleaned it with Kontakt 60 and now it’s good. However, I forgot to rinse with IPA afterwards. The can itself is corroding quite a bit at the bottom, the can is about 5 years old now. With this deck, I record my own compositions to chrome trapes as well as backups of C64 games. Maybe it would be a good idea to spritz the contacts with IPA now since the Kontakt 60 is so corrosive……
Another M205-owner here ;-). Tip: for backing up computer games: I heard it is better not to use a HiFi-Stereo deck for data, I can imagine that the 2 channels might interfere with each other and create a less quality (for the computer) signal. At least, with my MSX, I always had bad experiences with stereo decks for loading games... @DrCassette: Thanks for the tip with the IPA, I knew that Kontakt 60 is very powerful, but can also be very destructive. I always try to clean it off with a tissue, but in closed potentiometers and switches, that's of course not possible...
I will need to this contact 60 for my Sony CFD-5 which has a multi switch to select from CD to tape to radio etc and sometime loses the left channel then I have to move the lever slightly to fix it. Do you a link to buy the contact 60?
This is similar to Deoxit D100L but you don't need to rinse Naptha (lighter fluid) will work I have also used it. I prefer IA does a better job or rubber renew.
The tape will have a tendency to mistrack. It will wander off to the sides, which will cause strange effects in the sound. In really bad cases the tape will be pulled through at an angle, causing severe damage to the tape. If a cassette tape gets wrinkled on playback, that is usually due to a bad pinch roller.
@@DrCassette I think my Aiwa compo does have horrible audio recording. Anyway, I still need to find a Pioneer deck because nowadays cassettes on components doesn't reliable on recordings
Hello Dr Cassette, I ask you, for a Kenwwod KX-400 deck, how many Ohm does the head I buy have to have because they told me that this is important. I congratulate you on the clarity of the explanations. Greetings.
Für Gummiteile (Andruckrolle, Idler, etc.) kann ich "Disko Walzenreiniger mit Regenerator" empfehlen. Mit dem Zeug hab ich sehr gute Erfahrungen gemacht und es ist, im Gegensatz zu "Rubber Renew" , hier erhältlich. (und nicht so schädlich)
Ich hatte mir diese Walzenreiniger mal angesehen, und die Inhaltsstoffe hatten viele Gemeinsamkeiten mit Feuerzeugbenzin. Das benutze ich manchmal auf Gummioberflächen, manchmal mit guten Ergebnissen, manchmal bringt es aber auch eher nichts, deswegen habe ich bislang auch keinen richtigen Walzenreiniger ausprobiert. Vielleicht wird das aber noch :)
I just have to compliment your channel and say the camera you are using on your videos is sharp as a tack. What is your favorite camera you have used so far?
This video was recorded on a Samsung S10 phone. But I have quite a collection of cameras and camcorders too, it really depends on the use case which one works best. The phone certainly is the most versatile.
I got this tape deck for a good price. I inserted a cassette and played it. The sound was very "rough". After about 20 minutes it suddenly stopped playing. The play button remained engaged (so it wasn't the final cut-off). You then have to switch it off for a long time and press STOP to disengage the play button. The belt for the capstan shaft is still in order. After about 15 minutes, playback starts again, but only for a few minutes. Then it stopped again. What could be the reason?????? Ich habe dieses Tapedeck zu einem guten Preis bekommen. Ich legte eine Kassette ein und spielte sie ab. Der Ton war sehr "rau". Nach etwa 20 Minuten hörte es plötzlich auf zu spielen. Die Wiedergabetaste blieb dabei eingerastet (es war also nicht die Endabschaltung). Man muss es dann längere Zeit abschalten und die Wiedergabetaste durch Betätigen von STOP ausrasten. Der Riemen für die Capstanwelle ist noch in Ordnung. Nach ca. 15 Minuten funktioniert dann die Wiedergabe wieder, aber nur für ein paar Minuten. Dann blieb es wieder stehen. Was könnte der Grund sein??????
Cool, the old cassette deck still works fine. So rewording, when the old machines show their beauty again after s repair. What are the German water for wow and flutter??? Google translator is lost 😄
thank you for these really instructive ... shame you cannot demonstrate the real analog sound of a pre-recorded cassette at the end but I take it as read you have to use some garbage low kbps digital YT library pieces .... it would be nice to hear the "real" sound but hey .... I watch all these as one would a course my skills and equipment are really limited but all this really helps
@@DrCassette All the later produced TELEFUNKEN Hi Fi Components were made by Hitachi . Telefunken was bancrupty in 1979 and the TV Production was taken over by Thomson.
Hello, it's true, but Telefunken was fully based on Hitachi only after 1979. This model has Japanese components but it is still partly German design and production. This can be seen from printed circuit boards and some integrated circuits. Those marked with U or TFK are the production of Telefunken. Hitachi chips are labeled HA and HD. Electronics and so modules are, as I wrote above, a European project and German design with subassemblies partly European and partly Japanese. The mechanism with the Sankyo engine is already a Japanese job. But that's not full of Hitachi yet. It's partly Telefunken.
Yes, I have noticed that too when I was editing the video. I wonder if the spray really does loose its effectiveness once it expires, or if that is the reason why my can has lost all of its pressure...
As a big cassette fan, it's great to see cassette repair videos still being made.
Another patient saved by the Dr!
May your Tele funk be grooving for many years to come. Love these old machines
Your tape path cleaning is so emotionally rewarding to anyone who performs this procedure! Also, at 13:30, the apparent origin of "sqeaky clean" is self-evident. Thank you Dr. Cassette.
A job well done. Dr.C gettin funky with the Telefunken. 😎👍
Thank you :)
Nice work as usual! I found with the more aggressive contact cleaners, they sometimes dissolve parts of the plastic from the spray caps, that might be why the liquid looked a bit red. Had the same effect with another brand of contact cleaner after I had it sitting unused for a while. Didn't seem to affect the contact cleaner in any way apart from the slight discoloration though. Interesting that the lighter fluid did such a good job. I might try that in the future. I am always very hesitant about using any chemicals at all on the pinch rollers.
Great to see all the buttons marked in English and Deutsch 😀
It's a really good looking deck
Thank u sir, for your demo of cleaning the Head, Pinch roller, cap ston to have better & smooth working.
As always, great work and very methodical! I've always been a fan of your attention to detail.
Thank you :)
legend has it that if an american (like me) owns one of these and pronounces the name poorly, dr. cassette will swoop in during the night and repossess it!
DrCassette, may I kindly suggest you use potentiometer cleaner. Or maybe not all are the same...I am using, altough not often as you, of course, MA potentiometer cleaner. I have "repaired" some scratchy pots and a recording switch as well. The main difference from a contact cleaner is that it leaves a somewhat oily residue which not only lubricates the switch but it also acts as a protective pelicule and keeps the oxide forming. To be honest I have not used another type of potentiometer cleaner as I have this bottle for 2 years and is half empty. But the reason I have tried it is that the contact cleaner made had the same issue when spraying an old Sharp personal cassette player volume pot. i am sorry that I cannot insert the image here. It was also very cheap, 4 Euro's in Romania
That's the exact same deck I used to own in the 80's, a great deck, but what I found is that it used to run a bit slower (or faster?) than other decks, I noticed it when playing back on other decks
The playback speed can easily be adjusted on the back of the motor :)
If only I knew back then!@@DrCassette
Hi Dr! I've just gotten this deck from eBay and I was surprised at how good it sounds! This thing easily beats my 3 head direct drive Onkyo TA 2060 which is a shocking revelation.
These old Telefunken cassette decks are quite good, though I am surprised they can be better than a 3-head cassette deck...
@@DrCassette yup! The sound quality of this deck is absolutely stunning. Haven't tried recording yet because the playback/record switch is dirty.
Gotta tell you i have this deck, a technics az 6,and a sony tc kb920s all in like new condition. The sound quality of this Telefunken beats the crap out of the other two
Interesting method to restore the record/play switch. However, as these switches are not available anymore, in many cases it is needed to remove the switch and dismantle it to check how good the contacts are and clean them manualy one by one. The TC450 is worth being repaired. This models from Telefunken were among the first ones to be capable of recording tapes with high frequencies reaching up to 18khs and above, a truly remarkable achievement for that time.
A Telefunken TC 450 over here is worth maybe 30€. That is not what I consider worth the effort of completely removing and disassembling the record/play switches. Sorry.
I've been using the same method for decades. It's unreliable, but it'll work eventually. Good if you need the machine to be working now. Like if it's the bottom machine in a tower or something.
If it goes on my nerves enough or someone wants it, then I dismantle the switch and clean the contacts one by one. By now I take about an hour for the complete process (plus an hour to disassemble the machine to get to the switch and reassemble it back afterwards)
Yes, your are completely right if we take into account only the price of the equipment now. I was talking about the personal value of preserving the memory and history of the cassette decks. The majority of the models of the same era are not worth the effort to preserve them, in my opinion, because they were too bad even in those times. It´s not the case of this Telefunken, that was among the first ones to reach high frequencies as high as 18 to 20 kHz, a tremendous achievement in the 70s.
Be careful with Kontakt WL. Contrary to what one might expect, it’s not a “neutral” liquid. It aggressively corrodes plastics, particularly those types that where surface-treated and widely used in the early 90s as cases for Walkmans or other stereo equipment.
In various online forums I read that Kontakt 60 can be washed out either with IPA or WL. I have found that in most applications I used to use WL for, IPA works just as well, while being cheaper and causing less of a mess. So one reason I chose to use WL was actually because it seemed like a way to finally use up the can of WL that has been sitting around for ages and that has lost all of its pressure. What a bad idea that was. It took ages to clean out the WL with IPA afterwards...
@@DrCassette Maybe the WL had aged in the can, too? I've never heard of the IPA trick, but if it works, all the better. I also never had issues with WL - aside from it being corrosive and me learning too late. Well...
I have seen a trick where someone used the car tire nipple, pulled off the cap from the can with no pressure and placed the tire nipple over it and put pressure back into the can with the compressor!
I haven't tried it myself but I have remembered it just in case I ever run into the same problem again for which I have in the past but didn't know about this particular trick...
Great job on the cassette deck! I still have yet to come across a HiCom machine in Australia! I would love to know how it sounds compared to Dolby or JVC's noise reduction...
The most reliable technique to clean switches is to use Kontakt WL or Tuner 600 to flush the particular control then blowing it dry with compressed air. Afterwards you use 1-3x squirts Teslanol T6 Oszillin, then just a little compressed air. Finally some Deoxit D100 or White grease Spray to seal and just a tad compressed air. Also don't forget working the control back and forth at least 10 to 20 times. If come to this conclusing after 6 years of Repairing audio gear and working at a professional repair shop for some time.
Although if you have the time and patience disassembling and cleaning manually is always the best option.
Ajax Soap works well to clean rubber parts in tape decks.
Seized mechanical parts can be made movable by heating them with a hair dryer, then some Kontakt WL. Afterwards some mechanical oil.
Hallole! Das Kontakt60 benutze ich seit 30Jahren nicht mehr! Das ist der Poti- und Kontaktekiller schlechthin! Auch nach dem spülen hat das munter weiter gefressen. Leider wird das auch heute noch häufig benutzt. Die Freude ist groß wenn nach der Anwendung alles wieder funktioniert; die Enttäuschung groß wenn nach einigen Monaten der Totalausfall kommt. Reinigen mit Alkohol, wenns dann nicht funktioniert die Kontaktleiste demontieren und zerlegen, Ultraschallreinigen, spülen mit Wasser anschließend mit Kontaktfett wieder zusammen bauen. Bei hartnäckiger Korrosion vor dem Ultraschallbad mit Messingpinsel oder Glasfaserstift reinigen.
P.S: Das TC450 hab ich auch! 🙂
Kontakt 60 nutze ich nur, wenn Tuner 600 keine guten/dauerhaften Ergebnisse liefert, und natürlich nur in Schaltern, in Potis hat das nichts verloren, das ist mir wohl klar. Die lassen sich ja auch noch halbwegs gut zerlegen für eine gründlichere Reinigung. Bei komplexen Schaltern kommt das für mich nicht in Frage. Es ist ein irrsinniger Zeitaufwand, und wenn man Pech hat hält solch eine aufwändige Reinigung kaum ein Jahr, dann geht es von vorne los.
@@DrCassette Das Problem ist halt folgendes: Im zusammengebauten Zustand sprüht man in der Regel immer durch Ritzen oder kleine Löcher/Öffnungen. Da kann man spülen wie man will, man bekommt nie alles raus! Deswegen zerlege ich Schalter und Potis wenn man mit Ethanol oder Propanol nichts erreicht; im zerlegten Zustand kommt man überall hin! 🙂 Je nach Material kann man auch das aggressivere Aceton oder Butanol verwenden; allerdings vertragen das einige Kunsstoffe nicht.
Wie gesagt, in den allermeisten Fällen ist mir zum Ausbauen und Zerlegen von Schaltern/Potis meine Zeit zu schade...
Very nice Job DrC!
One thing about cleaning the heads with IPA.
I've got one case where erase head after cleaning it with the IPA got melted when the IPA started to vaporize. Finally the head surface got pretty much rought and it was needed to be replaced to avoid damaging the tapes.
I've Had this in Grundig radiorecorder unit, probably RR 450 model iirc. I don't know from what material it was made, but the color of it was dark brown and it didn't like the IPA at all :).
Best regards.
For some time Philips made erase heads that cause lots of problems. In some cases I have had, the surface had turned rough as you described, in one case part of the head had melted, so there was a sticky mess and metal components of the head were sticking out at the front. I would assume Grundig used one of these strange Philips erase heads.
@@DrCassette You are right! And I finally remind which model of Grundig radiorecorder it was. It was RR 3000 with Philips mechanism, same as in famous Philips D8614 model.
Nice to see an actual HighCom-deck! I prefer HighCom over Dolby or DBX, and use of couple of stand-alone units for my analogue recordings.
I assume you have some Telefunken CN 750 HighCom units then? I had one of those for a little while some time ago.
@@DrCassette Yes, indeed. A CN 750, a Nakamichi HighCom II, and it all started with a Hobbythek DIY unit.
Oh wow, you've got them all then!
@@DrCassette It's a harmless obsession, I guess ;-)
@@niek024 Is HighCom proprietary, like dbx is? ( can only be played back with the same recording compression system)
There are only two contact cleaners I use, for general use Servisol super 10, for best results use De-oxit, an excellent product, but not cheap!
hello, I'm from Brazil and I have a tc 400, the model is a little different but the mechanism seems to be the same. Here finding quality belts is a difficult task and the original one is "skating", I put one that I found here and the flutter is horrible. I would like to know if there is any place that sells belts for this mechanism of good quality. Big hug
Nice work.
Thank you :)
If I’d only had waited a week with working on my technics RS-M205 deck. It had a weird issue with the recording (the VU meters would hardly move whilst recording) and it produced a high pitch sawtooth tone when recording. It seems it had a dirty record/play switch as well. I cleaned it with Kontakt 60 and now it’s good. However, I forgot to rinse with IPA afterwards. The can itself is corroding quite a bit at the bottom, the can is about 5 years old now. With this deck, I record my own compositions to chrome trapes as well as backups of C64 games. Maybe it would be a good idea to spritz the contacts with IPA now since the Kontakt 60 is so corrosive……
It's certainly not too late to rinse out the record/play switch with IPA now :)
Another M205-owner here ;-). Tip: for backing up computer games: I heard it is better not to use a HiFi-Stereo deck for data, I can imagine that the 2 channels might interfere with each other and create a less quality (for the computer) signal. At least, with my MSX, I always had bad experiences with stereo decks for loading games...
@DrCassette: Thanks for the tip with the IPA, I knew that Kontakt 60 is very powerful, but can also be very destructive. I always try to clean it off with a tissue, but in closed potentiometers and switches, that's of course not possible...
I will need to this contact 60 for my Sony CFD-5 which has a multi switch to select from CD to tape to radio etc and sometime loses the left channel then I have to move the lever slightly to fix it. Do you a link to buy the contact 60?
I think I might start using Kontakt Chemie Kontakt 61, which is more aggressive than Tuner 600 but less so than Kontakt 60.
This is similar to Deoxit D100L but you don't need to rinse Naptha (lighter fluid) will work I have also used it. I prefer IA does a better job or rubber renew.
Lighter fluid....................Interesting. will have to give it a try.
Das Ding kenn ich!
What possibly happens when pinch roller was out of grip?
The tape will have a tendency to mistrack. It will wander off to the sides, which will cause strange effects in the sound. In really bad cases the tape will be pulled through at an angle, causing severe damage to the tape. If a cassette tape gets wrinkled on playback, that is usually due to a bad pinch roller.
@@DrCassette I think my Aiwa compo does have horrible audio recording. Anyway, I still need to find a Pioneer deck because nowadays cassettes on components doesn't reliable on recordings
I would not recommend Pioneer cassette decks. Anything newer than about 1990 was very cheaply made.
@@DrCassette so it's not recommend to have CT-W606DR like VWestlife demonstrate?
There are many cassette decks better than that thing..
Thank you DrCassette ..
What can i use to clean my cassette deck from outside ?? In simple way .
For cleaning the cases of HiFi equipment I usually use an alcohol based window cleaner.
Hello Dr Cassette, I ask you, for a Kenwwod KX-400 deck, how many Ohm does the head I buy have to have because they told me that this is important. I congratulate you on the clarity of the explanations. Greetings.
Für Gummiteile (Andruckrolle, Idler, etc.) kann ich "Disko Walzenreiniger mit Regenerator" empfehlen.
Mit dem Zeug hab ich sehr gute Erfahrungen gemacht und es ist, im Gegensatz zu "Rubber Renew" , hier erhältlich.
(und nicht so schädlich)
Ich hatte mir diese Walzenreiniger mal angesehen, und die Inhaltsstoffe hatten viele Gemeinsamkeiten mit Feuerzeugbenzin. Das benutze ich manchmal auf Gummioberflächen, manchmal mit guten Ergebnissen, manchmal bringt es aber auch eher nichts, deswegen habe ich bislang auch keinen richtigen Walzenreiniger ausprobiert. Vielleicht wird das aber noch :)
I just have to compliment your channel and say the camera you are using on your videos is sharp as a tack. What is your favorite camera you have used so far?
This video was recorded on a Samsung S10 phone. But I have quite a collection of cameras and camcorders too, it really depends on the use case which one works best. The phone certainly is the most versatile.
I got this tape deck for a good price. I inserted a cassette and played it. The sound was very "rough". After about 20 minutes it suddenly stopped playing. The play button remained engaged (so it wasn't the final cut-off). You then have to switch it off for a long time and press STOP to disengage the play button. The belt for the capstan shaft is still in order. After about 15 minutes, playback starts again, but only for a few minutes. Then it stopped again. What could be the reason??????
Ich habe dieses Tapedeck zu einem guten Preis bekommen. Ich legte eine Kassette ein und spielte sie ab. Der Ton war sehr "rau". Nach etwa 20 Minuten hörte es plötzlich auf zu spielen. Die Wiedergabetaste blieb dabei eingerastet (es war also nicht die Endabschaltung). Man muss es dann längere Zeit abschalten und die Wiedergabetaste durch Betätigen von STOP ausrasten. Der Riemen für die Capstanwelle ist noch in Ordnung. Nach ca. 15 Minuten funktioniert dann die Wiedergabe wieder, aber nur für ein paar Minuten. Dann blieb es wieder stehen. Was könnte der Grund sein??????
Cool, the old cassette deck still works fine. So rewording, when the old machines show their beauty again after s repair.
What are the German water for wow and flutter??? Google translator is lost 😄
German words...
@Axel Haar
"What are the German words for wow and flutter???"
Gleichlaufschwankungen 🤫🤫🤫🙂
Nice deck
A 1988 Sony HF tape
my favorite looking compact cassette tape.
@@noelj62 yea except that the hubs are different before transitioning to the permanent hub design
good, it tells you in English the functions to.
thank you for these really instructive ... shame you cannot demonstrate the real analog sound of a pre-recorded cassette at the end but I take it as read you have to use some garbage low kbps digital YT library pieces .... it would be nice to hear the "real" sound but hey ....
I watch all these as one would a course my skills and equipment are really limited but all this really helps
The Inner Parts of this Tape Deck are Made in Japan by Hitachi
How do you know the modules were made by Hitachi?
@@DrCassette All the later produced TELEFUNKEN Hi Fi Components were made by Hitachi . Telefunken was bancrupty in 1979 and the TV Production was taken over by Thomson.
Hello, it's true, but Telefunken was fully based on Hitachi only after 1979. This model has Japanese components but it is still partly German design and production. This can be seen from printed circuit boards and some integrated circuits. Those marked with U or TFK are the production of Telefunken. Hitachi chips are labeled HA and HD. Electronics and so modules are, as I wrote above, a European project and German design with subassemblies partly European and partly Japanese. The mechanism with the Sankyo engine is already a Japanese job. But that's not full of Hitachi yet. It's partly Telefunken.
@@janmos5178The high-com modules with their red WIMA capacitors could even have been manufactured in Germany. The rest is 100 percent Far East.
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a brand never seen in usa, and not common in the uk as i remember.
Telefunken has been available in Canada for decades.
Looks like Tuner 600 expired Feb 2021
Yes, I have noticed that too when I was editing the video. I wonder if the spray really does loose its effectiveness once it expires, or if that is the reason why my can has lost all of its pressure...
@@DrCassette It seems feasible after 12 + months that the efficacy would diminish.
Il vano cassetta e' pieno di polvere,appena puoi dagli una pulita,la polvere non ci deve essere
The cassette compartment has been cleaned.
I like your sample music ... probably taken from 80s porn movie
The music was generated by ScoreFitter which comes as part of Pinnacle Studio.
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