Very useful vid, subbed to your channel. Thinking of getting myself an SCT410.3, more as a basher than a racer, as I go with the notion that race rigs are invariably tougher than off the shelf bashers, and while pricier to start with often prove cheaper in the longer term as (mostly) require a lot less upgrades - thinking Slash 4x4 here. I'll take a look at your vintage Kyosho playlist too, as I also have a couple of old Mids to restore, hopefully some good info there too. Thanks
Im in the process of building mine now. I'm at the step where you put the diffs in the cases with the shims and I'm having trouble getting the shims to stay where I put them and also they are almost bending when I put the case together and where did you place the shims in your diffs any help would be appreciated
Be very careful with the shims. If I recall correctly, the shims go between the diff housing and the bearing that mounts onto the diff outdrive. It is possible, though (and the manual states this), that you may not need shims in your particular build. There is variation in the moldings of the gearbox, and so they provide you with shims to pick up any potential slack, if the particular mold you have results in a little bit of play. So try it first without the shims and see how it fits together, and whether there is any side-to-side play. Then try putting one shim on one side and see if that makes it feel tighter or looser (depending on which side you put the shims on). If you are having trouble putting the diff gear into the gearbox without bending the shim/s, then you probably have too many shims on there. They are only meant for 1.) compensating for tolerances in the gearbox molds and 2.) adjusting gear mesh.
Change your pinion gear. I'm on 4000kv and 2s, but my pinion is like 13 and too small. I'll be changing to a 16 or 17 teeth pinion, like the other guys at my track for the same truck.
+walkerjohnny72 110% you bet your @$$. The SC10 4x4 was very finnicky with the belt tension. Too loose and you destroy the belt. Too tight and you puff the battery and make the motor run way too hot. It never had enough rear droop for larger jumps. The slipper clutch was abysmal, even with a VTS slipper fully locked and extra pads added on. I could never find a good setup for it (more my fault than the truck's). The gear diffs had bronze bushings in the outdrive inserts, which wore out and caused the gears to skip due to play. Maintenance was a major pain. There was a lot of drivetrain friction, mostly due to the belt - even at the loosest tension, with the front and rear gearboxes spinning independently freely, it bound up once you mounted the belt. It was just a nightmare, through and through. The 410.3 is basically a 1/8 chassis with different arms/body/bumper/wheels. That's what 4x4 SC eventually became, and honestly it's for the better. It's stronger, easier to work on, easier to tune, and can handle much more power.
Jon says a $1,000 rig. Considering he what I can see in the truck and considering he must have tools, a charger, batteries, tires, etc. this guy has probably closer to $1,500 and you can but an aluminum horn at A-main for $9.00. You can even get the raised form which is best for Tekno RC vehicles. Don't put on TH-cam you can spend $9 when we see your $50 Proline Prime tires
I'm not saying I can't spend $9 on an aluminum horn. I'm saying I don't need to. I have a ton of Hitec horns lying around, and since they are a good fit here, there's no reason for me not to use them. I'd rather break one of those in a hard hit than risk beating up the servo with an aluminum horn. By the way, I haven't broken a single one of these Hitec horns, so guess what? I just saved myself $9. That's a decent lunch at the track.
sk8tillyoudie 83 $200 esc $100 motor $60 wheel and tires $60 receiver $100 servo $35 body $8 paint $50-$80 battery And a bunch of little stuff for tuning like pinion, diff oils, shock oils, etc... You can save money by budgeting. His esc and motor are not budget ones.
@@HYEonDEATHROW wow what type of ESC ate you paying 200 for lmao you're tripping what do you live in Australia lol. ESC and motor 150 castle set up whatever kv you want, receiver/transmitter flysky off Amazon 100 if you want a crazy one 40 for a really good one. Servo 70$ savox, tires and rims proline 150$. And if you are smart you can get a really good servo for 20$ Amazon and a gool motor any size for like 40$ I use both on all my rigs and they are just as fast a all my friends 100$ motors and I smoke my friends 5200kv Mamba with my 5200kv gool, ESC I wouldn't skimp but seriously a hobbywing for one of the best ones is 150$ max and like I said castle sells motor and ESC combos for 100-200$ range for both motor and ESC and castle isn't a shitty company.
@@HYEonDEATHROW I agree you can budget but not on ESC definitely lol those cheap ESCs catch fire. Still over a g I guess I was wrong the kit seems cheap at 350$ but you are right I thought it came with wheels and a body.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 87 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องชัย vs โชคปรีชา"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YN6e7HVnekw/mqdefault.jpg)
I just bought a roller, with a good stash of new spares, $80! Cant wait to run it
Very useful vid, subbed to your channel. Thinking of getting myself an SCT410.3, more as a basher than a racer, as I go with the notion that race rigs are invariably tougher than off the shelf bashers, and while pricier to start with often prove cheaper in the longer term as (mostly) require a lot less upgrades - thinking Slash 4x4 here. I'll take a look at your vintage Kyosho playlist too, as I also have a couple of old Mids to restore, hopefully some good info there too. Thanks
Okay, I see it now after listening to the video the first time. And now watching the video the second time ;)
Your last comment about sportsman lol
Reminds me of some guys running 1/8 buggy crashing everywhere.. And driving consistently
Not driving consistently*
Have you ever been to Watkins training facility in lindenville Vermont
I have not.
Im in the process of building mine now. I'm at the step where you put the diffs in the cases with the shims and I'm having trouble getting the shims to stay where I put them and also they are almost bending when I put the case together and where did you place the shims in your diffs any help would be appreciated
Be very careful with the shims. If I recall correctly, the shims go between the diff housing and the bearing that mounts onto the diff outdrive. It is possible, though (and the manual states this), that you may not need shims in your particular build. There is variation in the moldings of the gearbox, and so they provide you with shims to pick up any potential slack, if the particular mold you have results in a little bit of play. So try it first without the shims and see how it fits together, and whether there is any side-to-side play. Then try putting one shim on one side and see if that makes it feel tighter or looser (depending on which side you put the shims on). If you are having trouble putting the diff gear into the gearbox without bending the shim/s, then you probably have too many shims on there. They are only meant for 1.) compensating for tolerances in the gearbox molds and 2.) adjusting gear mesh.
doctormosfet thanks bro. That helps because I've been having problems bending those shims
Why is mine so slow on 2s is that normal 4300 kv pro 4 hd and RX-8 gen 3.
Change your pinion gear. I'm on 4000kv and 2s, but my pinion is like 13 and too small. I'll be changing to a 16 or 17 teeth pinion, like the other guys at my track for the same truck.
do you like the 410.3 over the sc10 4x4 ?
+walkerjohnny72 110% you bet your @$$. The SC10 4x4 was very finnicky with the belt tension. Too loose and you destroy the belt. Too tight and you puff the battery and make the motor run way too hot. It never had enough rear droop for larger jumps. The slipper clutch was abysmal, even with a VTS slipper fully locked and extra pads added on. I could never find a good setup for it (more my fault than the truck's). The gear diffs had bronze bushings in the outdrive inserts, which wore out and caused the gears to skip due to play. Maintenance was a major pain. There was a lot of drivetrain friction, mostly due to the belt - even at the loosest tension, with the front and rear gearboxes spinning independently freely, it bound up once you mounted the belt. It was just a nightmare, through and through. The 410.3 is basically a 1/8 chassis with different arms/body/bumper/wheels. That's what 4x4 SC eventually became, and honestly it's for the better. It's stronger, easier to work on, easier to tune, and can handle much more power.
Are you running any rebound on your shocks?
Nope.
has a $1000 rig and wont spring for an aluminum servo arm?
Don't need it. I have tons of Hitec servo horns and I haven't broken one yet.
yet you complain about how the plastic one is weak and tends to strip out
+Jon Posadny the original plastic horn is weak. The Hitec horns are much stronger.
So what kinda power, are you running?
Jon says a $1,000 rig. Considering he what I can see in the truck and considering he must have tools, a charger, batteries, tires, etc. this guy has probably closer to $1,500 and you can but an aluminum horn at A-main for $9.00. You can even get the raised form which is best for Tekno RC vehicles. Don't put on TH-cam you can spend $9 when we see your $50 Proline Prime tires
I'm not saying I can't spend $9 on an aluminum horn. I'm saying I don't need to. I have a ton of Hitec horns lying around, and since they are a good fit here, there's no reason for me not to use them. I'd rather break one of those in a hard hit than risk beating up the servo with an aluminum horn. By the way, I haven't broken a single one of these Hitec horns, so guess what? I just saved myself $9. That's a decent lunch at the track.
How is this thing costing people over 1000$ the hobby shop by me has one for 349$ so your spending over 600$ on electronics wtf.
sk8tillyoudie 83
$200 esc
$100 motor
$60 wheel and tires
$60 receiver
$100 servo
$35 body
$8 paint
$50-$80 battery
And a bunch of little stuff for tuning like pinion, diff oils, shock oils, etc...
You can save money by budgeting. His esc and motor are not budget ones.
@@HYEonDEATHROW wow what type of ESC ate you paying 200 for lmao you're tripping what do you live in Australia lol. ESC and motor 150 castle set up whatever kv you want, receiver/transmitter flysky off Amazon 100 if you want a crazy one 40 for a really good one. Servo 70$ savox, tires and rims proline 150$. And if you are smart you can get a really good servo for 20$ Amazon and a gool motor any size for like 40$ I use both on all my rigs and they are just as fast a all my friends 100$ motors and I smoke my friends 5200kv Mamba with my 5200kv gool, ESC I wouldn't skimp but seriously a hobbywing for one of the best ones is 150$ max and like I said castle sells motor and ESC combos for 100-200$ range for both motor and ESC and castle isn't a shitty company.
@@HYEonDEATHROW I agree you can budget but not on ESC definitely lol those cheap ESCs catch fire. Still over a g I guess I was wrong the kit seems cheap at 350$ but you are right I thought it came with wheels and a body.