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How to Fix Throttle and Shift Cables That Are Stiff or Seized Up!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video I show the viewers how to fix throttle and shift cables that are stiff or seized up! I hope this video helps the viewers that are having this issue. Please subscribe! Like the face book page! Follow me on Instagram @Chrispowellfishing Thanks for watching!
chrispowellfishing
Thank YOU ! For Being YOU and taking the time to share this. Folks, this really works and will save you some bucks. Two things . Be patient and use a cleaner, like acetone to clean the cavity, then use a lightweight oil to finish the job. Don't try to push 30 weight down those small openings. THIS DUDE Knows how to as he says, saves a couple of bucks and is "just a guy" I wish that there were more of you!
Not a big comment kind of guy however anyone reading the comments like I did ,I'm back to say this actually worked for me. I did the same thing in the video although I used PB blaster penetrating Solution .blew it in to the line and let it sit and I could not believe after 5 to 8 minutes how much improvement there was in the cable I could literally pull the end out with 2 fingers ....well done thanks for the video
Thank you, thank you, thank you. This worked great on my 20 year old pontoon boat. You could hardly move my shifter and throttle before. Took her for a test drive today man it works great. I used transmissions fluid on mine.
Sonny
Awesome! Just did my 20' proline cables......been sticking for years (single 150 hp outboard). Disconnected cables at the shifter mechanism, used about a 12" piece of fuel line, clamped it like you showed. Squirted WD 40 in fuel line, connected air, waited about a minute, disconnected air, more WD, connected air, etc, etc....did that about 10 times per cable (one shifter cable and one throttle cable) until WD dripped clear at other end. Works like new! Many thanks.............I was about to replace the cables.
Good
Mystery solved!!! You do indeed put the oil(s) into the length of hose THEN clamp your air adapter on and have at it with multiple fillings of that same hose.
Simple. Thank you You may not be a mechanic and neither am I, that is the best way to free up throttle cables. I’m adding that to my annual maintenance. Thanks again. I look forward to more videos
I had the same problem and watched your video. So I pulled my cable out of the casing and sprayed lubricant down the casing and put the cable back in. Mine is a 1980 johnson. Thanks for the video, I saved money.
Thank you Chris for this informative video. One of my cables was completely seized up. Followed what you did and problem solved. I had to increase the PSI to 70 before i started getting out the rust and then i went back to 40 PSI for a slow cleanup. Excellent video.
flmanusa hey man I glad it helped. My are still pretty smooth are all this time.
THANKS for the Video!
I used this method yesterday on my 1982 Evinrude remote control cables.
Worked Great!
I first used wd40. I then tried some automatic transmission fluid(about 10 weight oil) went through ok.
Then I tried brake cleaner spray. This didn’t seem to loosen any remaining crud, a waste of time.
Then I did some more wd40 and then I tried some 90 weight differential oil for a final lube but found it TOO thick to drip through(even at 90 psi!).
So I had to blow through wd40 again and then as a final lube I did 30 weight synthetic engine oil.
The wd40 goes through easily but the engine oil is a drip dripping out the other end.
The manufacturer probably originally greased the cables but new grease would never push through the engine oil is the sweet spot I believe.
Be careful, the clamps can let loose under pressure if not very tight and could break glass window or something.
Use lots of rages for the oil mess and leaks. Be sure to remove the hose on the cable so you can slide the cable back and forth between treatments to loosen crud.
The gear shift cable was still like new in movement but the throttle cable was hard to move. After treatment it was 90% better.
I may replace the throttle cable in the years to come because there still is a stick to it(there may be a bend in it from forcing it over the years).
Now I have fixed the inconsistent idle problem was the sticking cable all along!
Boy is it smooth throttle action and now I won’t damage my remote control handle by forcing its movement anymore.
PS:
I also found I could repair/remove the loose movement slop of both cable’s worn black plastic TRUNNIONS where they sit in the engine attachment point.
The trunnions moved back and forth too much inside the aluminum holders.
I used super glue and baking soda, was easy!
The baking soda reacts with the wet super glue forming a very very tough crystal material. Works great for the strongest repairing plastic as well btw.
Applying the super glue around the front and back worn away edges of the trunnions nut then sprinkling with baking soda. Then blow off the loose soda and repeat applying and sprinkling this.
So replacing the worn edges that are allowing the accessible movement.
It didn’t take much till the trunnions fit SNUG like NEW in their aluminum pockets! This has GREATLY improved my throttle idle setting and response and cable ability to open fully wide carbs throttle.
Ps Let me return the favor of this video tip.
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Take care
Thank you so much! This video literally saved us 1000$. You are an angel walking among us.
Boat….bust out another thousand
Had to come back and comment. Watched your video and it went fantastic. Cables move smooth and freely now. Remote still a little tough. May change it later
Great video, thanks for taking the time to help the rest of us. I also wanted to know how you're getting the WD-40 and oil in the line. Also, what oil did you finish with? Thanks again for your great video!
Awesome trick. Everyone says you can’t lib them but looks like you can👍🤙🏽
You know what they say, where there's a will, there's an "A"!
Good video man,I subscribed. Keep them boat videos coming. I got a 90 four winns 170 freedom with 3.0 omc cobra. So if you ever got info on my boat post it.
Thank you for the video. I had no idea that the shifter line must be oiled periodically.
Thanks for the video! I have the same throttle remote and a Mariner 115, 1990. I’m having an issue where I can start it with fast idle and the engine revs nice and high, but when I go full throttle on the lake it maxes out at about 2500 RPM. Shifter is stiff and the red safety bar on the handle pops out towards the right. Hopefully your video will help me fix it next time I’m with the boat! 👍
That's a pretty great tip on how to get that wd40 in there with air! Thanks!
I did this for my 250 HP Etec throttle cable. It worked like a charm but it took 2 days for the gear oil I used to get pushed through the 16' cable.
Thanks Chris! Good video. It helped me a lot. Take care!
Good information, thanks Chris! Have you ever tried lubricating your steering cables? They're much bigger and harder to disassemble and mine need lubed big time. Thanks!
Okay, but how did you get oil into the rubber hose?
1st time here. Seems you have what it takes to be a good you tuber. Not sure if you have made others. But might be good to put camera on the LIGHTED side of the subject, closer to the garage door and window ? Otherwise we see silhouette. Thanks.
Very good video. Did I miss something? What type of oil did you use to lube those cables? Thank you.
just the wd40
Man do like to do stuff like that and save and some times big $$$
Thanks for the video
Great video however, for much of the video, you have your camera aimed towards the bright window. This closes the apperature and makes you, the boat and your project so dark you really can't see what you're doing. Take a look and see if you agree. I just say'in.....
Aftermarket mercury control cables aren't too expensive anywhere from 25 to 40 per cable depending on the length of the cable.
Jon Karle thanks for watching! The cables are actually still pretty smooth since I lubed em up. But if they start seizing up again I will definitely look into that thank you!👊🏻👊🏻
...or if you can, just fix the cables you have, like this.
Well done and thank you sir.
What type of oil do you use?
No prob, i have a 2003 merc 90hp with a stiff throttle cable and I did what you showed, First I ran wd40 through it a couple times then I purged it and ran LPS 2 through it, basically a thin oil, and it didn't seem to be too much different, still somewhat stiff.
Jon Karle ahh man I hate to here that. Since this video I have done this same thing to my riding lawn mower throttle cable and it works for me. I used motor oil and I pushed an excessive amount threw the cables and it freed them up pretty well. Sorry it didn't work for you.
Not all cables live forever. If you have a tight radius in the cable, it may just be worn out. Seen some poor cable runs by manufacturers that stress the cables to make them work and look pretty. Make sure your control unit moves stress free. If it does, grab a new cable.
Good video. ? though - how did you introduce the oil into the line? Did you shoot it directly into the 3/8 rubber tube or something? Thanks in advance.
Was also curious about this as the video kind of skipped that part. Fill the 3/8" tube full of oil, then put on the air hose adapter?
Hi great video. I have a question when putting top back on does the lever pin go into the straight or curved slot. Thanks
Good job. Save money.
Yes thanks for saving me a couple of bucks 😊
Where do you put the oil
how r ya getting the oil in the tube??
Funny. The whole purpose of this video is to show us how to lubricate old cables. Two major important things are missing.... Where do you insert the oil and what kind of oil? I assume, since it is the only thing I can think of, you put the oil in the attached air hose before applying air. It would have been nice to hear that, or maybe he did say it and I just missed it. As for the oil.... Mineral, synthetic, 30 weight or 90 weight, etc.....? But I can be sure it is not WD-40. Or maybe you can use that to flush out all the junk. At least I learned it can be done and I don't have to buy new cables for my boat. I still rate this a good how-to video.
@@martiwf0 still, a good video. helped me all these years later.
@@sixthsense2939 Yea, I got it to work and it saved me a bunch not having to buy new cables. Now, if I can just get the squeak out of my steering wheel!
@@martiwf0 My throttle cable, once frozen, is workable now - now my clutch cable is getting the works. Should be okay. Both weren't operated for years.
@@martiwf0 so how did you get the oil in the cable, add it in the air hose prior to connecting it to the cables?
Sorry but this is a band aid approach. For the time involved with doing this, and how long this will extend the longevity of the shift cable, just replace the cable. The problem with shifting is usually the lower shift cable though. So get a lower shift cable kit and take the time to do that. The new shift cables are of far superior quality, and the lower kit kit costs about $100. If you find it's the shift station cable, it should be replaced too, and that will take you about as long as doing this. Either will take some time, and to do the lower shift cable you will have to pull the drive. But do it right, and don't fight with it again. The drive should probably be serviced at this time anyway, so do both, and avoid additional problems on the water, that are probably soon coming.
Not as clear as it could be.. but I think he filled the rubber tube with WD-40.. and blew that through.. and the really unclear part.. but what SHOULD happen is after blowing out the WD.40 ( which is a Solvent and water displacer..but NOT a Lubricant).. then he refilled the rubber tube with oil..and blew that through the cables. My choice would be a Teflon lubricant.. like Tri-Flow.. which also serves as a penetrating oil.. and not use WD-40 at all. But thus method followed by some motor oil will work. A synthetic is better than regular motor oil, because it doesn't contain sulphur.. and wont promote corrosion.
Thx Capt
...or use any lubricant you have nearby and enjoy the same performance.
Thanks dude
Thanks! now all I need is an air compressor! Or find a friend who already has one to let me borrow ;)
You didn't show how you added the oil, what type, and how much. And did you run a solvent through first to clean it out?
Definitely no solvent
i purchased old boat, have the throttle and the steering stiff, should i go a head and do it ? where I get the air compressor from ? do they hire it or purchase one
Buy one, borrow one, or try something else.
very good!
That's pretty...slick.
I saw what you did there. :-)
That is fistastic thanks buddy
You showed how you got the air compressor hose attached to the cable but not how you got the oil into the cable?
Put oil inside the hose before you hook it to the air compressor.
I just walked in from replacing the trim&tilt switch, and my throttle box needs a good cleaning
How did you get the oil in the line?
Put it into the tube. That's the only way.
Inject into airline using syringe yall
Turn a light on
Mixtape dropping soon. 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Yo we got a customer
Good old, 'get some shit done on the cheap'!! Those cables are retarded expensive! No harm no foul, save yourself some shekels for baits!!!
You check the throttle and shift cable first at the motor. You're doing this backwards
Your opinion doesn't support facts.
Also, check what? The cables? How? By moving the throttle/shift handle? Should we follow your guide and taste them with our butthole? Either the throttle/shift assembly is whack or the cables are poopy. Can't tell anything about the cables by staring at them at the shift/throttle linkage on the motor, bud.
Maybe it works to extend time for a proper repair. But i did this and it did free my cables for about 2months before they completey failed.
Also havibg the cables soaked with oil just helps it collect dirt. If u you do this plan on doing it every year or two because the cables get dirty faster now
Hmm. Do a motor swap.
Has a boat: If you're broke like me
It could have had been a good video if your lighting was better.
I saw everything perfectly.
Boat repair guys are a rip-off they charge astronomical amounts of money for even the simplest things...I'm no boat mechanic either but I have TH-cam and there's pretty much everything you need to know when it comes to diagnosing problems and fixing your own boat
Pickture to dark !