DRY POUR Concrete is STRONGER than we ALL thought
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- Testing dry pour concrete today, impact and compression testing. Crush testing dry pour concrete with a 28 day cure! DRY POUR CONCRETE VS QUICK CRETE BAG MIX.
JUST PAY THE MONEY AND GET A CONCRETE TRUCK TO DELIVER THE CEMENT AT A 6 SLUMP AND POIR YOU CONCRETE DRIVEWAY OR PATIO. YOU CAN EVEN ADD STUFF LIKE FIRE PITS AND STAMP CONCRETE
#concrete
#gopro
#concretelife
#concretetruck
#everythingaboutconcrete
#mikedayconcrete
*My thought are just hire me to do your concrete instead of fry pour... especially if you are a BIG TH-cam CHANNEL! open to colabs.... tag your favorite creator*
Everyone loves a good “fry” pour 😂 hate when that happens
The Cajun country livin page has started a craze. I hear people giving directions like most one time per inch every thirty minutes then soak every hour. Like how tf they even know lol 😂
@GRUBB-MUDD What is the general pricing per sq ft if you could calculate that? In your area or what you charge would be nice :) I got quoted at $20 sq/ft for a 800sqft slab. Would like to hear your thoughts or maybe even a series on you estimating prices of slabs or helping people with a second opinion on quotes !!
Once you start opening franchises in my area!
My guess is mist one time, then lightly soak it completely saturated
Okay, my opinion on this video. Dry mix is okay if you're doing fence post or something like that I pour a lot of footers. And sometimes we have to anchor to the concrete. On a dry mix, it never holds. As soon as you start drilling, it just turns to dust. Not really a fan of the dry mix.
Michael Builds does a lot of dry pours, and has used anchors for sill plates with no problems. Good and bad wet pours. Good and bad dry pours.
I juat am seeing this stix, it def turned to dust! Mush respect. What do u gota do to get the monotization back?
@@GRUBB-MUDD Because I haven't really been making videos. They're saying. I only have 3000 watch hours, need a 1000 more.
@@FisherCatProductions Yes. Over watering wet mix can ruin it. Both done properly, wet mix still turns out superior in every single way. Dry still does have it's merits though, for sure.
@@FisherCatProductions his boyfriend loves them.
Appreciate y'all taking the time to test that out. Actually entertaining too GM.
how about adding rebar and do this test again
When I was a kid I "helped" pour a garage slab with my granddad. It was about 2" thick. We had all the gravel and sand in 2 piles, and bag cement in the truck bed. They made a pile of sand and gravel on a piece of plywood in the middle of the slab with a divot in the center. They filled that divot with water then added the cement to that a few bags at a time. They put in x number of shovels of sand and gravel. Then they mixed it all together with masons hoes that have holes in the center. It was 2 guys and me. We just folded everything over and over keeping the water from running off. It didn’t take that long and because everything was just a shovel full, it wasn’t that hard. After using a traditional drum mixer with bag concrete, I think their way might have been just as fast and less work. You weren’t lifting bags high up, pushing wheelbarrows around. Maybe it wasn’t as well mixed, but the slab is still there 50 years later. It has a few cracks, but we didn’t compact the ground very well or add a thick base of gravel.
Anybody else worry about Grubb and Dad's ankles? Not worth it if it breaks!
I thought about it when I was watching later 😂
Lol😂
Awesome video boss. Id say next pour you do, make a square with their mix and see what happens with the 10lb weight. After thought. Would some rebar make a difference for either? Another test maybe.
Wow interesting test, I have seen the folks doing dry pour concrete on youtube, and cringe every time, lol. Yeah, my bet is the bag mix doesn't contain a great deal of cement, and the manufactures, are dialing it back to save money. Adding an extra 1kg to 1.5kg to a 20kg bag should increase strength to around 30mpa, that would be a curious result!!
Premix in bags is available in strengths of 5000 psi or more. That's more than adequate for a dry pour shed slab, sidewalk, etc.
Next time do a drop test over solid surface. Nobody is pouring concrete at 1-1/2" suspended in air between two pieces of wood. OR next time you have a bit extra on a job of average truck mix... put that in the mold and see how it compares. Probably won't be as brittle and crumbly, but I could see it cracking
😂😂😂😂. U r right
Him holding the 10lbs weight
Me: Please god don't break😂
You should drop a weight on them without them being elevated because they will be poured directly on the ground which should offer the concrete more impact resistance. Not trying to say that testing with them on the ground will prove anything different. Just a thought.
Good idea
I have one word for you... PERCOLATION.
Ok, so here's the long version: A dry pour will never be as strong as a wet pour... period. The reasoning is called percolation. As the bag concrete travels from plant to warehouse, warehouse to store, store to home, it is exposed to lots of vibration. The vibration causes the smaller grains (cement) to settle into whatever air hole it can fit in, the sand to do the same, and this causes the materials to segregate... meaning the bag becomes less thoroughly mixed. The areas that have too much sand or too much rock are clearly weak points, as those areas have less cement to bind them. That's why the wetting and mixing process is so important. It remixes everything back to a consistent mix.
If you don't care if the concrete cracks or has a much weaker than rated strength, then dry pour.
If you do care, then wet pour.
The math is simple too... If it's a very small amount needed, then grab some bags. If you need a yard, then get the truck on the way! The concrete truck is cheaper and a lot less labor intensive.
1 yard of concrete = 45 x 80 pound bags. (A 10' x 10' x 3.5" pad is barely over 1 yard)
1 yard of concrete delivered =
Except you forgot to factor in the ready mix minimum yardage charge
Viewing from Kokomo, Indiana! I don't know shit about concrete but interesting video man!
Good test, thanks for adding to the body of knowledge around dry pour. If would be nice to know what brand and "type" of concrete mix you used for this test, because others have found that even with wet mixing, there can be great variations in quality between brands.
In addition, as some others have noted, it would be interesting to see how some rebar would affect the outcome. For any slab you'd use rebar with traditional wet mix, you should use it with dry pour, that doesn't change.
I was surprised by how similarly the two methods performed, though. In short, no one is claiming that dry poured concrete is AS good or AS strong as wet mix, but maybe it's strong enough for many around-the-home and garden projects.
Also, for people like me who don't have a mixer, wheelbarrow, or other tools and just need a 4 x 6 slab in my inaccessible backyard, it's become difficult to find a contractor (in my area of the Midwest, anyway) willing to even give an estimate, they don't want the job. If they do, it's expensive and will be delivered on their time schedule, whether it's a good time for me to have it done or not. I understand that-- with the investment in their equipment, big jobs are their (and your) livelihood.
Again, thanks for keeping an open mind and doing a good test.
Menards brand. Yeah I should have put that in the description or something thanks for the comment and the view. Glad it helped a little
I think dry pour is ok. For like the small diy project around the house. Exactly like u said
@@GRUBB-MUDD
At least one other video I’ve watched directly compared Menards “Mastercraft” concrete with Quikrete and found it to be inferior:
th-cam.com/video/nFhSXqOyF5k/w-d-xo.html
It’s just too cheap for me to expect much from it!
this test is NOT a compression test, but a tensile stress test. This test only proves that concrete isn't for tensile stress (which we already know for ages). thats why they have rebar inside to for the tensile stress. and the concrete handle compressive stress.
Clearly you don’t know what a tensile test is, this is an impact test not a tensile test, tensile strength is the amount of force it takes to tear something apart
You're spot-on. His standing on the concrete was a tensile test, not compressive. Concrete addresses compression load, not tension. We don't use concrete to suspend bridges, we use steel cable. We need someone to dry pour a cylinder and test it in as close a manner as possible to concrete compressive test ASTM C39. Another test that would be interesting to run is ASTM C666 to check freeze-thaw durability. Dry pour is a logical outgrowth of ever-higher costs for concrete; the guy who wants a simple 10'x12' pad for a backyard building or patio will likely get an estimate today for about $1500-$2500 for a wet pour, or he can dry pour a 4" thick pad using about 70 bags of quikcrete at $5/bag, plus $30 of form boards plus striker boards, which is about $400 in materials plus delivery plus his own labor. And, the concrete truck doesn't rut up the yard. Concrete trucks are god-awful on yards. Concrete contractors are slowly pricing themselves out of the typical residential flat pour.
@@bdubb515 🤣🤣🤣 my god the nonsense read
yeeeep @@marknussbaum8394
@@marknussbaum8394 I agree, have you also noticed it is always the concrete contractors that do these tests? Though I think this guy actually watered it more than most do. One test I watched it was obvious they didnt use enough water. Concrete is a chemical reaction between the powder and water, the only real difference between wet and dry pour is the wet pour is mixed and dry pour is just soaked, given the same amount of water both should be identical. Perhaps someone needs to put the dry pour down in layers, wetting each one as they go and then compare them under realistic ways that the concrete would actually be stressed in real slabs, not dropping a weight on it when it is suspended between 2 boards.
This demo was awsome. I'm with you on this one. Bag mix is crap
💯%crap . I always put extra Portland cement in my mix when I use bag mix. Thanks for watching bro.
Lol zero chance that’s 200lb more like 50lb
I was thinking the same thing lol
Definitely not 200 😂
Absolutely not 200lb.. maybe 100lb at most
Y’all ever moved tractor weights? They are cast iron and do come in 200lb sizes just like that. I have two 200 lb and one 100lb plate on the front of my tractor!
1” steel plate is 40# per sq ft. So 50# is about right
So the takeaway is not to use bag mix for bridge building!
Facts 💯%
Ive done math .. in my area if your pouring 2 yards it is actually cheaper getting premix delivered in a truck than buying by the bag and mixing or dry pouring.. even after paying for small load charge..
And if your hand mixing in a wherl barrow doing a bag at a time you will never get it all poured before missing your finishing time frame..
Thats where drypour vomes in. But compare the cost with a premix delivet. You might be suprized.
Wet-pour concrete strength varies with the amount of pour water used, the wetter the pour, the weaker the mix. The 10-pound weight shouldn't have broken the concrete. He probably used an excessively wet mix.... There's nothing wrong with bagged concrete, it's the same as what comes in a redi-mix truck. Follow the bag instructions regarding water amount and you will get a very strong concrete.
Its far from as good as ready mix. For 1 the agg ia pea gravel not 1 inch minus rock. 2 ready mix has fiber and alot more cement. So it ia stronger. I mixed it at q 5 slump
Don't do dry poor on anything other than the ground if you want a fair assessment. Also, dry poor is easy to do in tight places where you can't get a truck. A pumper will cost you $500 or more. The dry poor will be better on the ground than a board
not just a 100 more though, the difference here is $1,300 doing it yourself with bags on a 20x20. a truck wants $2400 for 8 yards here
Hey curious if TH-cam still will monetize your channel even reposting videos?
Concrete never stops curing. 😅 c’mon man, i know you know that one. Cheers from New Jersey Homie
Nah it doesn't , your 👍. It's supposed like 98% after 28 days or some shit. Who knows . Cheers from indy
@@GRUBB-MUDD good stuff man. Keep up the good content 👍🏼
@@theSkavenger84 thank you man
@@GRUBB-MUDDthey say concrete never stops curing,why does it need replacing around 25 years in our weather,I am not sure.
I'm gonna air-fry mine and add oregano. Might even drizzle some olive oil on it.
Also, only hold the hose in your left hand when spraying the dry pour concrete.
When ever I use quickcrete bag mix for small stuff, I would always ADD a shovel full or two of portland cement to it when I was mixing it. Makes it a Lot stronger and not brittle. However, can't really do that for a dry pour.
sure you can... mix them dry
Or just buy a 5000 psi bag mix. Wet or dry it will be stronger than a standard bag of Sakrete.
Hello and God bless you and your family sir,,, blessings from Europe
Thank you! Same to you!
Dry is Good for small slabs because ready mix has a minimum load charge that is super expensive
Nicely done, true test of strength. Pre-mix is the ONLY way to go!
Exactly 💯
Sorry, but this test did not prove "Pre-mix is the ONLY way to go." Using that logic, you should have tested the wet slab against a 10,000 psi mix.. Would you conclude that "10,000 psi is the ONLY way to go"? Nope. Because you don't use a 10K mix if 3500 psi will do. If a dry pour has the needed strength, it's perfectly acceptable.
@@FisherCatProductions There's a reason why cement trucks don't bring the mix dry. If dry pour is that great why isn't it used in buildings, bridges, and roads??
@@budsatawny I answered your surley question in my previous response. You don't use dry pours in bridges and roads because a dry pour doesn't have "the needed strength. I never, as you suggested, quantified dry pour as being "that great". That's you putting words in my mouth. I clearly stated that dry pour is suited for projects that only need dry pour strength. Not exactly a tortuous concept to grasp.
@@FisherCatProductions I think they mean pre-mix is the only way to bring the concrete to it's full potential. Properly mixing produces a superior end product, and that's not even debatable. But with that said, dry pour can be "good enough" in some applications.
Nice,,, maybe try a run with rebar?
Hmm nice idea
Ive done a few dry experiments doing shower pans. Dry is weaker for sure, can handle Less PSI. The more its packed the stronger it gets.
I can see on a thinner pour, it working better.. now try it again on a 3.5-6" slab
Also I would say a better test would be a crush test,
Your never going to have concrete taking a tensile load without rebar.
If you do a cube test it would give you better more consistent test
I'd say dry is way less
Consistent.
If you don't get enough water on it.
Also I would never use it on anything suspended or anything bearing weight.
Wow really surprised at the results crazy!
I’m doing just a little pad on the back side of my house. I was going to dry pour because it doesn’t need to be all that strong or last forever but might as well just mix it right
Do what u feel comfortable doing bro
Dry pour makes more and more sense as the project gets bigger. Most DIY people don't want to attempt a wet mix 20 x 20 patio. Four 10 x 10 dry pads are easy-peasy. A small pad can easily be wet mixed on a piece of plywood, so no big deal either way. A small dry mix is certainly fine, but the benefit of "being easier" decreases.
I believe these contractors are just worried that they can’t overcharge people anymore. Because people are doing these jobs on their own. For a fraction of the price. No mixing, so no equipment rental for that. No labor cost. Just materials. I would be against it too.
What up man, thanks for checking out the long form. Tbh it wasnt bad
It's nice to see a pro test this. I usually test stuff at home because no one will complain but me if I make a mess.
😂😂
@@GRUBB-MUDDwhere you guys at in Indiana ? I see your guys with Purdue hats on, I live in Lafayette and I have 4+ years clean from heroin. I got clean after moving back home to Lafayette from new Orleans. Keep up the good work bro salud
"Pros" almost always get dry pour wrong because their minds are locked into doing wet pour. Right in the beginning the guy talks about wetting and says "drenched it real good" and thinks he probably did it better than most. Well there is mistake one!! it's because his mind is worked into wet pour.
To do dry pour right, the key is watering and you need to do it slowly on a schedule and you don't drench it!! That works somewhat OK for a fence post but is not good for a slab. The way dry pour works is from the very gradual even migration from the top down. If the surface gets wet with a little water beginning to stand on it you are using too much water!
Correctly done, dry pour ends up using the very minimum recommended water, slowly absorbed to he optimum amount of water, sort of like using a vey stiff mix of wet pour. Most pros know that a very stiff mix makes the strongest concrete. But it is much harder to work and finish. The cement, sand and stone are different densities. Too much water and it tries to settle by weight.
The color of dry pour looks different, That is because the mix remains uniform.
Pros keep trying to "fix" dry pour as they go because it doesn't behave like they are used to. They do this subconsciously because of what is ingrained in their minds about wet concrete. In fact, rookies with very little concrete often do better dry pours because they just follow the directions precisely.
The first best thing you can do for dry pour, is to forget everything you know about wet concrete. In psychology this is referred to as a paradigm shift. It is not easy to retrain our brains,
How about when they lay bags of concrete down and wet them
How’s that hold up
Bag mix is sht nowadays especially quikcrete
The dry pour may have cured all the way through, but it pulled the rocks, though, when it broke. If the cement paste bonded with the aggregate inside, it would have actually snapped some of the rocks in half. In this case you can see it left some rocks in and pulled the rocks from the other piece out. See the voids where the rocks were at 4:15 ?
I appreciate the detailed review
Ya' which is why it is used for light duty slabs. Everyone understands won't be as strong as wet mix, but you don't always need wet mix strength. Frankly, I was surprised how well it compared. The only measured test I've seen placed it about 2/3 its rated wet-strength--which also surprised.me.
@@FisherCatProductions i think if u do it right, and soak it alot. I dont think it will be any less stronger than wet mix from a bag
but it didn't make any difference.
Nice upload brother
All that shit talking on dry pour and it didn't matter 😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂
I go live alot btw
Nice video! I'm doing research for a dry pour myself... yeah, lazy as you said. On other videos, they smoothed out the concrete & edged it real nice before & after the first wet down. The strength is definitely there! Also, you didn't use any rebar/mesh. I think that would have made more of a difference. I'm still tittering between dry pour & buying a mixer... Only thing that's holding me back is I don't have room for a mixer after the job is done!
Hire 1.
Get a mixer, the difference isnt just compressive and tensile strength as shown in the video. The dry slab chipped and flaked, and when the pieces were dropped it was releasing aggregate and the cement was crumbling away, which are signs of an improper mix, ie either not enough cement, unhydrated cement, or diluted cement which would be from a poor mix (not a factor here, its all the same prebagged product), or improper water content, either too high or too low. Too high water content is a common issue in house slabs, too much water is added into the truck or during finishing to make it easier to work with. If you take a grinder to a slab like that it starts doing the exact same thing, crumbling and throwing rocks. In either case its a sign that the water content was improper and caused a significant drop in yield strength and surface density. In this circumstance its because 1) there isn’t enough water to properly hydrate the mix, there may be enough water volume but mechanical agitation is needed to evenly hydrate the cement. And 2) nothing can be done on a dry pour to densify the surface. On a regular pour you will screed, bull float, edge, mag, and trowel the surface. Each of those steps being done as the concrete is getting harder and harder, which compacts fine aggregate and cement on the surface and making a dense layer. If you want a nice looking surface that will last a long time and hold up to abrasion you need to do all those finishing steps.
You guys need to say if it's rapid set or structural grade. All concrete has a big difference between compression and tension strength with or without Rio bar.
Its regualr sac crete
I don't know if we learned something here but at least it was hilarious
So no one understands what “full cure time” is?
Concrete develops its strength slowly after the initial set.
Wait at least a month before do those kinds of tests. Preferably 3 to 6 months.
It would be cool to see if the redimix plant could do a break test ?
Yeah that would be cool. I did a driveway for a girl who worked at a break test place and our driveway test did really well. And that mix even had flyash in it
Unless you're building a bridge deck or a suspended building slab, you're test method does not represent the "in place" concrete. If you place any concrete on undisturbed earth or substrate that does not yield, it will not crack like your test showed. Possibly with a loaded semi truck or a tank, but not common vehicles or pedestrian traffic.
Ground can seem pretty hard, but in most areas it still makes for a surprisingly unsupportive substrate. Some faster than others, but nearly all soils strength goes down as the amount of water in it increases. Around where I live, fields that you can drive a pickup on without leaving any ruts when they're dry, become a whole different beast when its wet. A hungry sticky clay beast thats trying to swallow my pickup now that its wet. It goes from solid ground to bottomless muck and the only difference is a few inches of rain falling in the week before. The long and cold winters here cause massive frost heaving everywhere that isn't either extremely well drained or underneath a heated and insulated structure. And not much can withstand that, the frost is like an unstoppable force that raises the surface of the ground a foot above where it usually is, and it never settles back down perfectly in the spring. Dry pour is only really suited to areas where the climate is desert or near desert because of the problems mentioned above. And the only exception I can think of to that is places where you'd be laying it directly on exposed bedrock.
if you put down 6 mil plastic first the bottom will eventually get the moisture you need
..or water the ground then water it in layers, as in put down an inch of mix, water it, then another inch and water that, etc. All these tests seem to be where the 'dry pour' wasnt watered enough.
One handing 200lbs. Riiight.
Easily
in some areas you cant get a truck out to save your life, I am on a list got 5 yards in 3 mths and it will be 4k just for that.
Annnd we’re off 😂 this is how they pour concrete on the “west coast”
Good demo!
Not the same test you allowed the first piece to flex every time you stepped on it, not the same test!
It still showed if u do dry pour right it is pretty strong
Nice effort, you just proved that concrete has very poor tinsel strenght, thats why reinforcing was invented. The real test would be compressive testing.
Appreciate u watching!
once it sets up you want to keep it wet curing for 1 month, it will be much stronger if you cure it correctly
Thats facts and that is kinda how i did it. I watered that lil piece for 3 weeks. Anywatching this guy is 100% correcr
Definitely wasn’t $100 more for me. It was over $1,000, well over that, I got two quotes
I can't wait to come and do another pour with u guys
I got a scooter finally I jus need to get a battery and fix the fuel line. It feels like I'm never going to have the money to get it running. I'm super stressed. I can't even get my my boss to loan me a little bit of money
@@chadatkins9053you seem like a really hard worker and could sure use a break and catch some good luck. Hopefully things get better for you brother
Finally found the secret to build back better.
I was given a price of 3200.00 for a 20x20 or I could dry pour for 680.00. What would you do?
If you want to save money, the answer is a no-brainer. If you are going to drive on it, it's also a no brainer.
I like my concrete like I like my women. Big and heavy.
I wonder rebar inside the dry poor will do
Great video Grubb. The dry pour will save a lot of time i think. But what about the money? Since they are great in quality and strength, Which method is cost effective?
Exactly... Like I said some people are scared to even attempt to pour regular concrete. Even mixing. They are scared. Anyways thanks for watching
is this good for 20x20 sqf of patio?
So many things here.... suitcase tractor weight isn't 200lbs.
Bag mix not meant for anything under 2 inches thick.
Concrete has support under it not running a span.
All the dry pours are just lazy. Its not that much more effort to mix with water and pour these TH-cam dry pour projects the size that most are.
Sorry, know your in the business, but theres not alot of difference in the inside body of the 2 slabs. Almost identical. Foot traffic slab? No difference. Vehicle driveway? Wet mix
That weight dropped is like a brick hammer. Of course, it's going to shatter.
I ran out of weights
@GRUBB-MUDD I have done dry pour. You missed a step. Misting the ground before you dump. This way, you absorb from both directions.
@@mr.gabriel382 I def did that, but like I said an inch and a half thick is best
My issue isnt scared or lazy, im trying to build a shed in the woods where I dont have any water.
Ya all the fence guys are doing it. So every time it rains I have to go back and fixe bent fence
Huh?
We set 4x4s and chain link fence posts in dry concrete for 25 years. Flawlessly straight with no braces needed. Never had any of hundreds of them fail. The only way to pull them out was with a front-end loader, and they came in a solid chunk.
Did you drop the weight on the dry poor but not on the other one??
When you patch its called dry packing 😊
Lmao
I've been a Mason for over 50 years.
Dry pour concrete is crapola
🤣🤣
Bag mix Concrete isn’t meant to be strong at 2 inches thick
Dry pour is just as labor intensive as wet concrete, it is not "the lazy's man way." There may be some advantages to one or the other.
Dry pour is can be 3x easier than wet pour, depending on job size and skill levels being compared. However that does not make it a lazy way. If it produces a product adequate for your needs, go for it.
The only major difference is mixing the concrete. In the video he said, "You might as well spend and extra $100 more and get a ready mix truck." Why wouldn't we call that the lazy mans way? I personally don't think any way is lazy, and once you do it with a reasonable slab, you won't either. @@FisherCatProductions
@@desertcityentertainment Exactly. Just because something is easier, cheaper, or faster doesn't automatically make it a "short cut" or "lazy". A dry pour is the only option for many people who want to do their own slab. If you don't think a dry pour is considerably easier than a wet pour, I question if you've done either.
@@FisherCatProductions I don't mind the questioning me, you should question someone you know nothing about if you care that much. All I was saying is that it isn't a lazy job, you appear to agree, therefore I have nothing to go back and forth with you about?
@@desertcityentertainment Having poured concrete all my life--redimix and hand mixed--I just want to assure people that dry pouring is IMMENSELY easier, especially on a medium size project. Especially at my age (72). Especially if there are only 1 or 2 of you. Especially if you are reluctant to dive into a wet pour with no experience. (But only for light duty slabs) Ciao!
Click bait nonsense. That is not the way to test concrete strength. Try a real compression test and it will show that properly mixed concrete will be about five times as strong as dry mix.
ws that cortinas voice at the end? dudes a sharpshooting beast
Yeah it was
He also used to have a concrete channel and was really successful. I didn't even know about his other bigger channel. Until I posted that short. Have u seen it. It's is funny as f
yeah he was into barndaminiums, think he still is, but made a machine shop to make muzzle devives for shooting. dudes a genius and super innovative. his shooting channel is just eric cortina@@GRUBB-MUDD im out in northeastern ohio man and id love to pour with you one day just for the fun of the pour. or if u come out this way you can pour with us called northeastern concrete. im also a recovering a junk addict of 15 yrs, God gave me numerous chances to get clean cuz i needed them. i relate to you and it just goes to show how resilient and stubborn we addicts are. aint nothing stopping us but ourselves. god bless you brother and i hope nothing but the best for you, your pops and the company homie. hope we can pour someday in the future
If that concrete breaks while you are on it one legged it would of snapped your tibia
Concrete is useless at thickness, it not designed to flex you drop a hard weigh it gonna crack off a truck or not doesn't matter
No doubt, i was just surprised iy held uo that long and cured that decent
Thanks for wstchibg. Check out my other concrete vlogs, if u havnt yet
I would say concrete in a bag should only be used for underground work such as fence posts or like if you are going to set a strip drain just to level it
FACTS
5000 psi concrete in a bag is as strong as 5000 psi from a batch plant.
@@FisherCatProductions if its mixed correctly yes. A dry pour is not going to go to strength champ, just so you know.
@@lachlanitis2311 LOL my response went to the wrong post. Sorry lad.
We need project farm to do the testing…….
Im so curious though
7:47 😂😂
Anyone else questioning how he's calculating some of those numbers?
🤣🤣🤣🤣
If r r dumb enough to dry pour in the 1st place. This video is for u
Being a concreter myself i know the dry pour concrete is rediculous. But a better test is a gradual compressive test instead. This test not very consistent or in a controlled environment.
😂 its all we had
It's ridiculous why? Because you say so? If you've never done a dry pour , how would you have a clue. Considering there are dozens of videos of successful projects with follow-ups, I tend to take their evidence over your uninformed opinion.
@@FisherCatProductions my uninformed opinion is 20 years of experience champ. How much experience do you have as a concreter or engineer?
@@FisherCatProductions if you want a shit product with a shit looking finish go right ahead and do dry pour. I just happen to know the science behind concrete and il stick to my wet pours.
@@lachlanitis2311 You (obviously) have ZERO experience in doing dry pours. Therefore your opinion concerning them is uninformed. Nothing personal. Just a fact. BTW, working for the state Fish Commission over 25 years, I supervised poured, and finished miles of slabs and walls for fish raceways. Poured boat ramps, piers, and bulkheads above and below water. Designed and performed repairs to dams and raceways using custom forms and high pressure concrete. Worked with hand mixed, batch trucks, pumpers, and crane drops. None of which qualifies me to comment on dry pours. Doing some successful dry pours does qualify me to at least have an informed opinion...champ.
Dry mix is just good for post
I don't even do that for post, but people wanted the video so I made it
@TheUnlikelyGardener that's right. Like fence post or sumthin
@TheUnlikelyGardener I put a hose in the hole and a steak and mix it the best I can
Nice.
Thanks!
Yep!
Science 😂
One you did NOT do the tests the same, two you had your mind made up going in.
Hes a methematician nothing he said was right... dude weighs like 140 lbs
You hilljacks just said bag mix is crap then you say spend more money on BAG MIX LOL WTF
so no difference? 🤣
No
Hey bro could you send me a couple of Grubb Mudd shirts and a couple stickers if u have em😊
Definitely bag mix is shit
Its not good dont do it.
hilarious how little understanding you guys have for the strengths and weaknesses of concrete.
This is the most inaccurate test I’ve ever seen
U seem gay? Nothing wrong with that .
That's some messed up disrespectful stuff to say
This guy must be a dry pour guy
@@buffalokrisgoldprospecting who u talking about
If your talking about me we pour everyday and it's definitely not dry
Usually a 4 to 5 slump most of the time
Lmao yeah right good try buddy