DIY Battery Spot Welder - Update & Demonstration
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ย. 2017
- I've created another video go explain my DIY spot welder and to cover a lot of the most asked questions I've been getting on previous videos and dispelling solve of the myths surrounding this method of spot welding.
*Nickel Strips*
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www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solid-Pure...
*Solenoid Relay*
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*Choc Block (Electrical Connector)*
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*Copper Nails*
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*Heavy Gauge Cable*
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*Momentary Switch*
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My Website: kevindark.co.uk
Evolve Battery Upgrade: kevindark.co.uk/blog/read/10
![[Eng sub] DIY- How to make a home use simple spot welder with car battery](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8bxBGA0L8NQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You sir have just built a time machine! Here's why. Surfing my way through TH-cam, this very video comes into play... within minutes i'm going back in time watching my dear old Granddad build something almost identical. He was an electrical engineer working for the Fawley Power Station. He would make battery packs for stuff he needed at work (No I know they weren't lithium modern stuff) but he also used a much bigger one to spot weld panels for heat shielding. SO on this particular day I was with him in his workshop, when suddenly he exclaimed to himself he needed to spot weld the panel seams.. I had no clue of course what the hell he was talking about as I was only 10. I then, with great interest watched him MacGyver two huge truck batteries with wires and big copper prongs, a few other bits and bobs bolted here and there and within about an hour he was spot welding panels together.
This video just sent me back to a fond memory of my Granddad, and his wisdom and sheer ingenuity and resourcefulness.
Thank you.
I guarantee he had some sort of safety cut out, be it a breaker/fuse or the cables he used being rated as a fuse point or something else, no way an electrical engineer would leave out safety factors when dealing with stupid high currents.... I'm curious as to what exact details you remember but yeah, its a very long time ago :)
@@julescircuits845 oh I don't doubt that too for one second. But at the age I was I wouldn't have known.
@@julescircuits845 only engineers fresh out of school obsese over safety. With experience, you realize what would naturally break and act as a safety cut off. Practical experience > theory crafting
You talk of the Fawley Power Station. As story has it my family owned the land that the Fawley Oil Terminal is now on...... whether that's the same thing. My Grandmother always maintained she had been diddled out of a significant fortune by a wicked Uncle: re the compulsary purchase of the land.
Later researches showed that My Grandmother had relatives who undoubly owned a farm in the area, that much is quite true.
Other than that, Im told, the story is fiction.
Weve all enjoyed dreaming of what might have been, had the story been bourn in fact.
Apologies for the gate crashing.
@@davidmg1925 Wow that was interesting, I live on the doorstep, literally, of the Esso refinery. I have lived in it's shadow almost all my life. My mum worked there years ago too. But heres the thing.... I've heard your story before! My Granddad, the very same one in my comment, said the land had been bought from people years ago, and probably didn't realise what their land was worth. Now i'm not suggesting for one minute that this makes it fact or that either story are connected... just a funny coincidence maybe? But none the less... interesting.
Thank you for explaining this man! Im learning more about this stuff everyday, and wanting to make a alternator motor ebike/cycle using a ford 3g alternator (130amps) that ive had laying around for years.
Ive got experience building 4 stroke gas motors and bikes (welder by trade), but wanting to get into electric power.
Im wanting to build everything including battery, and found your video here. Thank you for going over everything for electric dummies like myself. I have an understanding of starter solenoids from being a backyard mechanic, so this makes perfect sense.
Ive even used a spot welder over the years being a welder, but never anything this small. Awesome!
Very helpful and informative! Probably the best and simple guide I found so far.
Samaunus Safa thanks! 😁
Ditto! Been watching tons of DIY schemstics and all have such hard to get components (all imports that would take ages to arrive). A bike selenoid you can buy anywhere! And an old car battery is found in any mechanic.
And nickle can hold more current as well
i love the job youve done. im copying it to lern the skill now. i have a tip for ya. im a mechanic. the relay may eventually fail and one of the failure modes is thermal runaway. on my nearly identical system ill build tomorrow ill put a 5.00 dorman 140a fuse between the battery and relay. those things save me on truck systems often behind a relay. cheers and thank you. i did subscribe!
Great! Thanks man! Simpliest spot welder of entire internet!
excellent craftsmanship, nice low-cost project. I appreciated the copper nails really a great idea ....... ty
Thanks to you, I'm building a 5V-10V super cap spot welder.
Thank you so much for the idea.
I would just like to thank you. I was given an old ebike that would not charge. The cells had been left for years and had discharged beyond repair. To get a new battery would have cost me nearly £500. I watched a couple of TH-cam videos including yours. I purchased new cells for just over £100 and made this spot welder. Today I set about dismantling and rebuilding the battery pack. Hey presto I now have a working bike. Thanks again.
That's awesome! You're welcome! 👍
I suppose, this is the best and the most reliable solution I have ever seen. Great job!
Power Battery Channel thanks! 😁
This looks like it's the easiest fastest way to do it and you don't have to buy a bunch of stuff that could go wrong
you said
@@eltorolatinoify Except that this whole setup can very much go wrong, because there is no safety mechanism included at all, like e.g. against a permanent dead short, when the relay wears out over time.
@@Noxoreos Nothing very bad would happen. Nickel strip would just break and that's it.
Detailed, step by step video of a working project and all the wrinkles ironed out. Thanks for sharing with first class results.
Lots of information before I start to build my own lead acid-solenoid-push on button SIMPLE YET EFFECTIVE SPOT WELDER ! Thumbs up!!
Looks like a great little spot welder, something I have needed for quite a while. Thanks for the review.
You have explained everything perfectly I’m a trained electrician I love the spot welder kind regards liked and subbed
Awesome! Thanks! :D
Brilliant ! Now we can all have a Spot Welder... Thank you... Today I learned a Solenoid acts like a Relay.. Oh and a Cut Off.. That's excellent...
Simple but better than so called expensive spot welders. Nice job 👏
Superb. I tried building one and it worked like a charm. Thanks a lot... 👍🏻
Wasn't gonna make my own batteries because I couldn't be arsed soldering and couldn't afford a welder. Thanks to this video I think I'll give battery building a go as this seems pretty simple and cheap. Thanks man.
You're welcome mate 👍🏼
its a great setup u dont need a timer you have plenty of power just hit it quick n bam its done great job
lol thanks! :)
this is the simplest, most effective spot welder, and explanation video of how it works, i've seen. good job, and thank you.
Thank you! 👍🏼
@@darkkevind1978 something for you to think about, a fender mounted starter solenoid from an older ford auto, or from a large riding mower, would be able to handle the amps no problem. auto starters pull 2-300 amps regularly.
Another great video!! I'm definitely going to make my own diy spot welder like this one. Thank you for the step by step instructions how to do this. Thanks and take care.
Aaron
great video, I happen to have a cheap foot pedal that's very tactile. I find using my big toe for the button and having two hands-free woks quite efficiently ;)
Great videos, I'm making one according to your information. It looks like it welds all as good as a factory $200.00 manufactured model. Thanks for the videos.
Doug K thanks. It really does! I'd like to see your finished project 👍
Good job!
Looks like it makes a really good weld!
Nice project. Thanks for sharing.
Just a quick thought. You could also insert the copper nail from the top side keeping the head on. Now you can spring mount the nail using tiny spring on top of the nail head.
Because there is a little room between the two screws that are holding the terminals in place.
Thanks again bro. Keep them coming.
Great video and well done. To get more accurate welds, you could program the time the welder is running by fitting simple timer to the welder. I was thinking of a 555 timer ( cheap as chips ) programmed for various mSec settings of welding. The timer switches a beefy transistor (say a 2N3055) that activates the relay. You would have to play around with the welding times to find the optimum settings for the various welds you encounter. It would take the 'stab the switch and hope' out of the current configuration. Stay safe out there.
You can use a potentiometer and capacitor in the 555's circuit with values which would cause the astable (one-shot) range to be from a millisecond or two to, say, 250 milliseconds. Set and forget or use the adjustment of the pot to give you more/less time for a heavier/lighter weld. Wouldn't cost but a few bucks/pounds/yuan/lira/baht/pesos and would "fire" independantly of the 12 V source voltage by operating on it's own 9V battery....... ! Would fit easily into a cigarette package-sized box.
This is the safer design compared to the risky meltdown device described in the video... good thinking....
great video and easy to follow, spot welder working perfect with a 220 CCA battery, thank you for sharing
gxy4 thanks! 😁
Only brilliant people can develop such simple solutions.
Thanks for sharing it
Great setup. Very simple and inexpensive.
I used the battery out of my car and an old motorcycle solenoid. It literally took 15 minutes to build. Mine's not as clean looking as yours, but it works.
Good stuff.
Nice one 👍
As long as it works that's all that matters I've got all my bits hanging 😂🤦♂️
I was about to buy a spot welder from China when I found this video, instead of spending £150 I built one of these using a spare car battery and other bits sitting in my garage. Total cost was about £30 and it works perfectly :-). My battery is a Ford OEM brand rated at 700CCA and i bought a 500A solenoid (same as the heavy duty one in the link). I tried .3mm nickel strip but it was a bit too thick, 0.15mm works perfectly and gives good, strong welds. Thanks for sharing :-).
Adrian Guandalini nice! Be awesome to see it?
I'll tidy up the cabling and post some pics soon. Not sure if you mentioned it ion the video but is this setup suitable for welding NiMH and NiCD cells?
Adrian Guandalini yes, fine for any cells in this form factor.
darkkevind I've built a few drill packs but my old 700cca battery seems to have died. I didn't hear any pop or anything but the weld arc became weak and the battery now only measures at 10v and won't respond to the charger so I'm guessing one of the cells has died (it was an old battery anyway). Is the BulletBatt you're using in the video still holding up? I can get one delivered for about £33, I can also get a similar spec Lion branded battery for the same price. Cheers
Adrian Guandalini you've let the voltage run too low 😣 I have a little charger sitting on top of my battery that I connect to top back up after a hundred or so welds... With the higher voltage you get a decent amount of current. I'm still using the battery in this video, yeah, it's holding up very well 👍
Just built one...Works great.... Thank you for the detailed walk through
Awesome! You're welcome 👍
That is probably the sweet-spot in terms of simple yet effective for a battery spot welder! Gonna replicate this over the weekend, thanks a lot!
Thanks!
Wow, not only great videos but you even provide links to get all the gear super fast from Amazon in the UK. Top work buddy.
ryalman21 thanks man!
I am going to give this a shot. Already purchased 1/2 of the items.
This is awesome! Love the simplicity. Just to add, I think a car starter pulls more amps when cranking the motor than this welding thing.
Simple & perfect ! Best DIY I have seen for a battery spot welder. Thank you !!!
Hey, thank you! 😁
Simple and nice setup. Lead acid batteries only make hydrogen/ oxygen gas as a bi-product of electrolysis that is a reaction to charging/over-charging the battery. Harmless enough just sitting round on a bench though. Also a very simple adjustable 555 timer IC circuit in monostable configuration using a transistor/mosfet to control your solenoid into the uS range.
Hi Michael any chance of putting up a schematic of this for me to try?
Nice update thanks..
artfulcoyote thanks! ;)
Thanks for the video! I built one after studying your design and must say there is a learning curve for applying the welds effectively. I built a 7s26p battery pack using 3.7 V Li-ion batteries. I will say that pure nickel tabs are much better than the nickel plated variety. The plated tin seems to burn through easier. I twisted some approx. 1 mm diameter copper wire together in two strands for each electrode. I found that filing the electrode tips clean regularly while welding helped them not to stick or burn through. I borrowed the 12 V battery from one of our cars for the power source. I charged it with a float charger in between sessions. Your videos were very helpful, so thanks again!
J Eliason that's awesome! Yes! There is definitely a learning curve! 😕 I too have find that cleaning/sanding/filing the electrodes and making sure they have a nice point in them helps to make clean welds. Glad you could make one from my video 😉
Please mine doesn't stick to the battery what could be the issue
The best guide ever uploaded on diy spot welder dude!
Your amazing!definitely gonna order the pieces and build one!
Μάριος Μιχάλης thanks! 😁
Nice build, I have built the same setup but I added a timer to the switch which is foot operated. I have timer set to lowest setting which is 0.1 second, this works out perfect every time. My only problem at moment is my leads are not thick enough and get hot with prolonged use.
Nice! Just up the guage of your wire?
Do you have a link for the foot switch with timer
Thanks for the upgrade info as well as the failures of burnt strips if contact time is excessive. I made a crude set-up which had partial success. Copper nails may help. Timing is the key. J K
James Krivitsky timing certainly IS key!
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge, you explained it in simple terms so someone as thick as me could understand
It's great that you have kept everything so simple and it works. Screwfix or Toolstation do a 30A ceramic block connector. That nickel strip will glow white hot at hundreds of amps for a long time. It is the ohmic area(lots of routes probe to probe) resistance, it is not a fine wire! Spot welding is 'resistance welding' - if there was a short circuit then it wouldn't heat up. The probes provide a localised area of contact with high resistance. For the minimum safety instead of just trying to tap the button = I suggest a simple circuit of a resistor and a capacitor that charges up to 12v, then your switch button connects that to the solenoid coil. If the pulse is a bit short, press again.
Nice and simple it just will never go wrong, well it will fail one day but I love it your springy tips are easy to make with some copper braid and some tubing perhaps I will do a drawing for you so you can see how simple it would be to make then you would have a perfect connection each time as they would be spring loaded Bob-UK
Bob Wareham I would like to see your drawing as well.
Awesome video again dude! I built one myself from your previous video to build my battery for my electric skateboard, worked a treat, panicked a bit when I read the comments as some safety conscious Steve was rambling about h2 gas being produced, I did it in my lounge an I'm still here but other than that great inexpensive solution to building your own battery pack rather than buying a battery spot welder, vids are great man super informative and helpful, great invention thanks for sharing dude!
Adam Harriman thanks man! Glad it helped and you were able to build your own, super easy right?
darkkevind was super super easy dude! Easy to get parts easy to build and easy to use, and I found your prior videos easy to follow, couldn't ask for more man! As for h2 gas when I build another pack in future am I best to use it outside or is there no reason to worry? Keep the awesome vids coming man
Adam Harriman no gas whatsoever unless you're charging the battery. Using it, ie. discharging the battery doesn't produce anything harmful...
I charged my battery right before a weld and there was a huge explosion. Thought I'd died. But thankfully it was just the hydrogen igniting in the air. Was no harm done and I'm still doing it. I just don't charge right before I start.
Danny Tillotson that's odd, I charge nowadays after 70-100 welds and then use straight away... I've never had this! 😕
This guy is a true genius!
Loving your work 👍🏼 building one imminently !
Neat design, this answered a lot of my questions -- FYI: Running a motor or a light bulb from a battery isn't "shorting" it -- since there is resistance between the terminals (even if it's only a dozen ohms, it's still resistance). -- It's not a "short" unless you're approaching zero ohms (which according to ohms law, would try to pull infinite amperage).
You could use Tungsten rods for TIG welding instead of copper nails xD
So simple, great idea. thank you for sharing.
could I ask where do you buy your 18650 cells from? there are so many fakes out there
Great video and I have made up my welding rig pretty much like yours. I've made one slight alteration in that I have used a lever moment switch which gives a much more consistent connection as you flick it and get a consistent weld.
Thanks! Would be great to see your setup 👍🏼
Hi Robin, i am trying to create this setup but would appreciate if i can get some help in seeing your setup. Thanks again
Are you still using this spot welder?
If you do and the design hasn't changed since this video, I have some tips for you.
- those two electrodes should be separated. Applying pressure separately gives you much more consistent welds and eliminates sparks, which appear when there is not enough surface touching the nickel stripes.
- make those electrodes thicker with roundly pointed edges. I use 5 mm copper rods, point them with a grinder and make the ends nicely round with a file and sandpaper. The ends should be about 1.5-2 mm in diameter.
- as for the timer controller I recommend XY-LJ02. Shortest pulse time you can set it to is 1/100 of a second (10ms). The one you showed isn't very useful, because the shortest pulse time is 1/10s (100ms) which is far too long and it burned through my cells.
This way you'll have a very efficient heat transfer interface (thick electrodes) and a big contact surface (rounded pointy ends), which when used with equal pressure (sparate leads) will give you almost perfect welds.
Well, they will never be perfect, because 12V is a bit too much for a spot welder, but they will be consistent at least.
A 5 amp 30 volt diode across the coil biased to the positive battery terminal avoids relay sparks and will extend the life of the relay. The timer is crucial, and easy to add to the control circuit. A pedal frees the hands and allows holding independent electrodes.
The ideal solution for a tab welder is to deliver an exact amount of energy every time to the nickel strip to weld batteries. You can do that manually or electronically by charging a bank of capacitors to a precise voltage level. The energy is equal to 1/2 times the capacitance times the voltage squared (.5CV^2). So, use battery to charge caps, disconnect battery, then close switch to weld.
Mine is works but dosent stick to d battery what could be the issye
@@laurabarnes3295 Maybe not enough current . Excuse can i ask you a question about the battery ??
From all the videos on youtube about Spot welder. This one just nailed it simple and easy to use. I think that's my next
DIY project thank you! :)
Thanks! You're welcome 👍🏻
i made one of these from a 230cca. mower battery, a ford starter solenoid, a 4 ga. battery cable, a momentary push button, a plastic connector block like he uses, and 10ga. single strand copper wire for the contact points. all of the parts except the connector block were used and i had on hand, so total cost for me was about $10 for the connector block with shipping. it works great, with no issues, and i've been using it for over a year. this is the best design i've ever seen. i just quickly tap the button like he does, and presto! a functional weld.
Hey thanks! I'm glad it works for you 👍🏼👍🏼
This worked out very well for me, THANK YOU. Believe it or not, 2 of the 3 solenoids I tried out, didn't even work, so definitely make sure those are working before giving up. What's really important that I would add here is that you have to have the terminal connectors clamped down very TIGHTLY, otherwise the solenoid will seize (not permanently). A lot of us are comfortable using vice clamps but BE CAREFUL - because if you have two (oppositely charged) metal vice clamps sticking up in the air next to each other, that's an opportunity to short the battery while un-clamping and get the $#!+ shocked out of you. Also there is some chatter about using a timer relay switch. Don't bother. The quick tap is all you need as long as the CCA isn't too high (mine is 340). I've also learned that arc-ing is a common problem, resulting in burning through the nickel. This is usually because there is a gap or some 'air' beneath the strip. Two fixes for this is to make sure that your nickel strips are perfectly flattened and to put extra pressure on the offending lead.
Am using a battery from generator is it good 12v 7a
Works but the nickel dosent stick to the battery
Great video, and just what I need to do repairs to a load of dead Dewalt drill battery packs. You forgot to mention your 18650 battery supplier as there are a lot of suppliers ...some better than others. Any recommendations? Stay safe out there.
Excellent, thanks for your detailled descriptions and explanations !
Myriam Huyghe you're welcome! :)
Love what you're doing!
Like your Spotts, Just an idea/question re doing 4 spots in one go ie using 4 copper nails with a spacing insulator (maybe four holes evenly spaced in a bit of wood to start with) just a very little extra wiring to 4 terminal blocks? It sounds like the battery could handle it OK ???. Nothing like cutting work in half. I think your return spring idea could also work better using a bigger four-pronged foot.
Lawrie Carr that's not a bad idea, but sometimes 4 are required and sometimes 6. Also with some awkward shaped nickel strips out would be time consuming to line up the prongs so they sat correctly.
But good idea! 👍
I don’t think a two to one mix of hydrogen and oxygen are toxic... just highly explosive. Great video and project description! Bought a solenoid the other day at my local auto parts store :-) have a few good salvaged/gifted automotive batteries in good shape in the 600-800 CCA range, old jumper cables, and a box of heavy wiring connectors I’ve built up over the years from various projects. Need to build one of these!
Hopefully the high CCA batteries won’t be “too much!”
ummm, you know you breath that everyday to live?
Thank you man, I was on the edge of buying one for a fortune, now I am making a parts list! Wonderfull work, great explanation. Not the fist video of your's I have seen, but this earnt my sub.
Glad I could help! Thanks for the sub 👍
Good job on the video, thanks for the information from across the pond!
Thanks! You're very welcome 👍
"Nothing sinister" Haha, man, I'm going out this weekend to get a battery and the other parts. I'm glad I waited for this update because I was only going to get a 200A.
Chris Duke 200A is enough to be honest, but 300A is a bit better and a bit stronger, but you have to be SO quick with that switch! Lol
You can add a 200 amp fuse, just in case if the solenoid get stuck.
rigth
Where exactly would you place the fuse?
Between the positive terminal on the battery and the relay i presume?
I was thinking about that. Not nice to touch the nickel strip and find the circuit is closed. I get nervous around big batteries.
@@irate74 anywhere on the positive battery main leads
Hi, very good visual. And Ty for taking the time to explain everthing. But there were lots of lengthy tangents.
Great video. Thorough and helpful, and really clear.
Christopher Jones thanks! 😁
This is a good Brute Force welder with proper amperage!
None of that fancy electronic bs! Hehe
And my fancy electronics delivers about 800 amp at 25 to 35 msec. With short protection 😂✌🏼
That's pretty good. Why are we paying 100$+ for arduino welders when we can just make one of these... Thanks for the informative video...
Thanks! :D
@intra morph
because they actually include some safety mechanisms and don't wear out over time, except on the batteries. It is also easy enough to create a custom Arduino solution including the power source for less than 50. Actually you can buy a full kit for less those 50 bucks nowadays, when you already got a viable power source. And that one is much less likely to suddenly explode, because they don't leave that much room for user error.
I was talking to a guy who builds a lot of packs as a side business and he said pretty much the same thing. He'd spent a fortune on different types of "pro" welders and they'd all eventually failed for some reason or other, but his DIY solenoid welder was still his favourite and going strong.
@@PersonalStash420 you can find them on ebay or aliexpress. The keyword "spot welder" should bring up a few products. some of them sell from 25 to 50 bucks and are good enough for personal use. Just make sure to take one that's powered with a lipo battery or similar
I get back on this video, to thanks for the idea, it's working great. I'v done it with x20 18650 batteries in parallel, and trigger the electromagnetic switch through another, smaller, 12v battery and it was doing it great. I'v successfully spot weld a large parck of 18650 with it, and everything went super well. So thanks again for the idea!
Hello!! Please, can you put a schema ( a sketch on a paper, nothing fancy ), or make a video on how to do it with 18650 batteries ?
The electromagnetic switch is this solenoid from video?
Another improvement may be the addition of a fuse to prevent possible dangers. The question is, where is it fitted? Thank you very much!!
You sir ...are a bloody genius and true to British inventors of the past ...just ordered all this on Amazon...I have so many projects waiting for a welder which are to expensive and yours is so cheap and easy to build ...thank you from me and all the happiness my projects will bring now i can make the packs 😀👍
I'm very happy to be able to help you out mate 👍🏻
@@darkkevind1978 you really have , thanks for adding all the links to ...makes it realky easy to get it all so cheers .. 👍
Thanks great video, everything clearly explained. One warning, not a good idea to work around batteries, especially high power ones wearing a metal ring. If you short out across the ring it can get red hot before you really notice and then you can't get it off before you loose the finger. Doesn't happen often, but a few people loose a finger that way each year.
Mark Strathern thanks for the heads up! ;)
Doing it like this makes doing it any other way look dumb.
I love this video pure genius with very few components to go wrong great video unlike other videos on TH-cam with cheesy music
Thanks mate! 👍🏻
Wanted to thank you for posting this build - I'm just getting into welding my battery packs for a project I'm hoping will have some retail value. I had a spot welder from when we built tube-lights for ye olde 70's disco floors but it's pressure triggered with vertical poles. Easier to DIY from scratch than try to reconfigure a 40yr old spot welder for something that may not even sell.
You're welcome 👍🏻
Well, now I'm regretting not grabbing that solenoid from the junk yard last night..
What kind of solenoid can u use? I'm only aware of starter solenoid or is there anything smaller.
OK..I got it to work now. The battery CCA should be around 250 - 400. I change my battery from 800CCA to 310CCA. It work greats now, also the nickle strips needs to be real 99% pure nickel not plated. I had some plated strips mixed into my supposedly pure nickle batch and they did not stick at all to the 18650 battery. The real nickle strip were very easy to spot weld and held firm!
Also I found an easy way to spot weld is to put a small strip of solder under the strip(for plated nickle strip only). I angled the tips and let it do the quick heat spark and it melted the solder and welded the strip to the battery really fast and hold firmly too! This process made the welding stronger and easier.
Now that's using your noggin!
I will use that idea and make good use of it! Thank you!
What issues did you have with a 800 CCA battery? I was going to build one using an 800 CCA that I have laying around.
@@aznative_ It's way to strong. It will burn through the nickle strips every single time on spot welding. Once I went down to 310 it work perfectly.
@@peterpham4846 that's what I was afraid you were going to say! I need to build a battery today so what I'm going to do is use a pair of my 15 foot jumper cables and hope enough energy is wasted in that set up. I'll definitely be doing some practice tests on things besides batteries before I actually try it on a battery not looking to risk the potential of thermal Runaway.
@@aznative_ you can try spot welding the nickle strips by angling the two prongs 45 degree or more, don't do a straight vertical spot weld..it will burn holes into the strip..or put a little ring of solder under the strip and spot weld it. This will melt the solder and make a better spot welding with the high CC.
Love U man!!! Just gave this a try this eve with a 19€ bike selenoid, half dead pickup truck battery and junkyard cables and switch! Had a dead Dewalt battery lying around for ages with 3 new cells waiting to replace the fryed ones cos a spot welder costs a fortune! Well, with 30€ and your blessed genious I saved a 120€ battery in a single eve.
Jollyest hollidays friend!
Excellent! You're very welcome 👍🏼
Great video and got me welding batteries like a king! I am using bog standard cable and a tray of ice to cool the tips. Works perfectly, your massive cables are just conducting heat from the tip rather than the current.
Dylan Scott-Dawkins that's true but with thinner cables, I found I was having to stop after 6-10 welds to let the wires cool down... With this 16mm² guage wire I can weld to my heart's content ;)
He's not soldering so he doesn't really want to keep heat at the tips. Let the electricity create heat for the moment he's welding. The electrodes losing heat will make the rig more consistent as well
20:40 screw it up, and you're done XD
I'll have a go making one, if I get stuck would drop you a line
Good way to teaching excellent
Excellent spot welder, pretty cool!
Thanks! 👍🏼
12V 35Ah 330A must be a UK thing. In USA, the search engine always converts A to Ah, and all the parts stores know how to do is add what car it's for into their system. None of the batteries on display show A ratings. Anybody here in the states who can help? Some truck batteries list cold cranking amps, but they usually start around 800.
Chris Duke yes, it's CCA that you want to search by... CCA is the same as A basically. It's the amount of current the battery is able to discharge to the starter motor...
Thanks. Yeah, it looks like no car batteries in USA under 500A (CCA). I'll have to look at motorcycle batteries. A motorcycle battery may be a better choice for me anyway because it's more portable on my E-Bike. Now to dig up an old laptop so I can break the dead batteries out of it for practice.
Chris Duke you could try it... Mine was crazy at first @ 330A but it seems to have settled down now, even though I've kept the charge topped up...
Use the more big battery for a motorcycle 12-14A 12V battery
Hope you found your battery? But at AutoZone, I have purchased the (Lawn & Garden) Batteries for my welder. They have a fairly cheap 250CCA or 325CCA batteries" under $40". I have experimented with both, and the 250CCA giving me the best welds.
If you need solenoids explaining not sure you should be making battery packs quite yet sorry 😐
Agreed.
Your first video was definitely clear enough to understand the setup but definitely appreciate the update
Thanks. Lots of people asking for more instructions and details though 🤦♂️
Your DIY is the most convincing spot welder tutorial on youtube ( I have not found anything better and easier to make). I am still waiting for 4 weeks to crate a suitable one. I have tired with a 45Ahm car battery but the amperage was too much, I have also tried with a motobike battery 12v, 5 Ahm and that welding was quite poor.
Now I am waiting for a higher amperage motobike battey ( about 7-10 Ahm).
I am about to make an e-bike battery pack for my Bosch 36V bike and can`t wait to have it ready in the meantime gathering old laptop batteries.
Szentmihalyi Autodiagnosztika it's not the AH you want to worry about, it's the CCA amperage discharge capability. About 300A is the sweet spot that I've found...
Darkkevind actually I meant the CCA discharge. Thanks again!
How about a wireing diagram.
Thanks.
th-cam.com/video/nmVqUkNjubk/w-d-xo.html
Cheers mate, I'm a newbie to your channel, I was looking for a how 2, and you gave me the guidance I needed 👍👍👍👍
You're very welcome 👍🏼
I've ordered most parts now. I have a golf cart battery that I'll try, CCA isn't listed for these, however it is worth a punt for a one time use, also I intend to use a micro switch from a microwave door (once I locate them in my odds n ends that appear to have been scattered everywhere 🤦♂️)
Once again thanks man 👍
All made, works a treat, E-bike battery saved from scrappage 👍
@@professionalidiots101 awesome! 👍🏼
Awesome video. For a beginner, this was very helpful. Thanks.
You're very welcome 👍🏻
Yeah man ! Great vid. Beautifully explained. I just happen to have all the components lying around. I is gonna build me one tomorrow ! Thanks so much for taking the time to share this :}
Thanks! You're welcome 👍🏻
Awesome, you went above and beyond explaining everything, just what i needed to make one 👌👍
Very informative . Well done
Fuel Cell thank you :)
Great Project And Very Simple To Make Thanks.
CARL GRAY thanks! 😬
Well sussed and shared. Thanks for the parts links too.
You, sir...are a genius
Thank you for the clear, detailed explanation. Really well done. Where do you get your batteries from? Do I need to inspect or test the weld?
Great tutorial.I found on Ebay 500A 12V relay for 12 USD,and momentary switch for 1 USD.Great prices! :)
likfrikbik can you provide the links to those products?
Did it work you you? Mine 480A destroys the strips
Massive thankyou to you pal ive just made a spot welder off your idea and saved pounds just when i couldnt afford it, joys of lockdown, thanks..
You're very welcome my friend! 👍🏼
@@darkkevind1978 your a star, thank you.