Hmm that's weird. All stock Player Strats I've played had the tone pot next to the volume wired to the middle and neck pickups, and then the 2nd tone to the bridge. Even my Squier 40th anniv. is wired that way.
I've not come across this before - Maybe it's something new Fender are doing then - the traditional Strat arrangement was bridge direct out, no tone. I am going to rewire this as I don't like the tonal variety from this set-up. I am going to wire it up like I've done my other Strats, with the middle going direct out, no tone!
With these guitars the high e is not usually in danger of slipping off. It does look like that one is bad. The neck pocket may have room to move the neck and fix it. My player two neck feels completely different front to back, it is thick, doesn’t feel modern C. My player one is thin modern C. Could be that neck somehow is more narrow after edges rolled or something on yours
@jl-zz9zs it's funny, cos I love how the guitar feels and plays - the action is a tad high but I'll adjust that once it's settled in a bit... but... there are definitely some QC issues. I've screwed the string tree out a lot as ut was causing massive tuning issues which I've hopefully resolved - but it needs that little collar on there... and, the neck plate is wonky and the one on the Jet is light years ahead of the Fender. Shame you have to pay so much for an entry level Fender now!! I'll do another update soon - thanks for taking the time to comment and watching!
Personally, I'd be either sending that thing back or at the very least negotiating a considerable refund on what you paid for it, because it has clearly been very badly constructed and it is going to require a fair bit of work to fix that. Frankly, it looks like a right 'friday afternoon' job and not really acceptable on a guitar at any price, let alone several hundred quid. The bridge is very obviously not centred and neither is the nut; that's apparent on this video without even getting a close up, because we can see the D string is over the top of the position marker circles yet the G string is well clear of the bottom of the circles, and not just by a tiny amount either, it's fecking miles out. This means you're going to be experience the top E slipping off the fretboard all the time unless it is fixed. It also means that because the strings are not aligned with the pick up pole pieces, it'll never have the correct volume across the strings unless that is sorted out. The problem could be sorted out fairly easily, but it will require the bridge to be taken off, the current screw holes to be plugged, then with that done, the bridge screw location holes can be re-drilled to allow the bridge position to move up what looks like at least two or three millimetres so that it is actually centred in the body, although obviously measuring that properly to determine exactly how far is necessary would be the thing to do. Hopefully there would be enough room on the scratchplate's bridge positioning cut out shape to allow that to happen, assuming that's in the correct spot, which one would assume it is given that the end of the neck limits how the scratchplate can be positioned before it is screwed down. It also looks like the nut is causing a similarly poor alignment and that would need sorting as well because if not, the string alignment would still be off which would mean the strings - being strung longer than they would be with perfectly centered alignment of the nut and bridge, would then be ever so slightly too long, and whilst that might not seem much, it will make it impossible to intonate it correctly over all the fret positions because effectively it is increasing the scale length but the frets remain at the correct scale length, which means a mismatch that could not be resolved. For anyone used to setting up guitars, doing a bit of finishing, swapping of bits etc, this is not a particularly difficult job; it's well within the capabilities of a competent DIYer, and of course your own time and work is 'free' so it's far from being a nightmare in terms of cost. However, if we consider that if you paid someone to do this, they'd be looking at a few hours of work, so they would probably have to charge you a couple of hundred quid minimum to make it worth their while, then this is really the kind of discount you want to be demanding from the seller unless you instead choose to send it back, and hopefully they would agree to this, because as it is, that thing is a P.O.S. which should never have made it past quality control and will be unsellable to anyone else unless it is sorted.
@ChockHolocaust it was B stock and yeah I did get a considerable amount of discount. As for the details, it's stuff I'll sort - I'll probably put a bone nut on there and I'm gonna rewire it as I don't like the current switching. But it plays well. It's a fun addition to my others and be ideal for chucking around when teaching !
Hmm that's weird. All stock Player Strats I've played had the tone pot next to the volume wired to the middle and neck pickups, and then the 2nd tone to the bridge.
Even my Squier 40th anniv. is wired that way.
I've not come across this before - Maybe it's something new Fender are doing then - the traditional Strat arrangement was bridge direct out, no tone. I am going to rewire this as I don't like the tonal variety from this set-up.
I am going to wire it up like I've done my other Strats, with the middle going direct out, no tone!
Nice one, mate!
Thanks Rob - gotta set it up now.... change the strings and sort the trem. The Pau Ferro fretboard feels weird. It's quite rough to the touch!
With these guitars the high e is not usually in danger of slipping off. It does look like that one is bad. The neck pocket may have room to move the neck and fix it. My player two neck feels completely different front to back, it is thick, doesn’t feel modern C. My player one is thin modern C. Could be that neck somehow is more narrow after edges rolled or something on yours
@jl-zz9zs it's funny, cos I love how the guitar feels and plays - the action is a tad high but I'll adjust that once it's settled in a bit... but... there are definitely some QC issues. I've screwed the string tree out a lot as ut was causing massive tuning issues which I've hopefully resolved - but it needs that little collar on there... and, the neck plate is wonky and the one on the Jet is light years ahead of the Fender. Shame you have to pay so much for an entry level Fender now!! I'll do another update soon - thanks for taking the time to comment and watching!
Personally, I'd be either sending that thing back or at the very least negotiating a considerable refund on what you paid for it, because it has clearly been very badly constructed and it is going to require a fair bit of work to fix that. Frankly, it looks like a right 'friday afternoon' job and not really acceptable on a guitar at any price, let alone several hundred quid.
The bridge is very obviously not centred and neither is the nut; that's apparent on this video without even getting a close up, because we can see the D string is over the top of the position marker circles yet the G string is well clear of the bottom of the circles, and not just by a tiny amount either, it's fecking miles out. This means you're going to be experience the top E slipping off the fretboard all the time unless it is fixed. It also means that because the strings are not aligned with the pick up pole pieces, it'll never have the correct volume across the strings unless that is sorted out.
The problem could be sorted out fairly easily, but it will require the bridge to be taken off, the current screw holes to be plugged, then with that done, the bridge screw location holes can be re-drilled to allow the bridge position to move up what looks like at least two or three millimetres so that it is actually centred in the body, although obviously measuring that properly to determine exactly how far is necessary would be the thing to do. Hopefully there would be enough room on the scratchplate's bridge positioning cut out shape to allow that to happen, assuming that's in the correct spot, which one would assume it is given that the end of the neck limits how the scratchplate can be positioned before it is screwed down.
It also looks like the nut is causing a similarly poor alignment and that would need sorting as well because if not, the string alignment would still be off which would mean the strings - being strung longer than they would be with perfectly centered alignment of the nut and bridge, would then be ever so slightly too long, and whilst that might not seem much, it will make it impossible to intonate it correctly over all the fret positions because effectively it is increasing the scale length but the frets remain at the correct scale length, which means a mismatch that could not be resolved.
For anyone used to setting up guitars, doing a bit of finishing, swapping of bits etc, this is not a particularly difficult job; it's well within the capabilities of a competent DIYer, and of course your own time and work is 'free' so it's far from being a nightmare in terms of cost. However, if we consider that if you paid someone to do this, they'd be looking at a few hours of work, so they would probably have to charge you a couple of hundred quid minimum to make it worth their while, then this is really the kind of discount you want to be demanding from the seller unless you instead choose to send it back, and hopefully they would agree to this, because as it is, that thing is a P.O.S. which should never have made it past quality control and will be unsellable to anyone else unless it is sorted.
@ChockHolocaust it was B stock and yeah I did get a considerable amount of discount. As for the details, it's stuff I'll sort - I'll probably put a bone nut on there and I'm gonna rewire it as I don't like the current switching. But it plays well. It's a fun addition to my others and be ideal for chucking around when teaching !
@@MarkFeaGuitar If you're happy to sort it and it was inexpensive then great 🙂
Second serie is way better.
@Robert_Fordin Yeah I heard there are some significant changes