Daniel, I'm late in watching your enjoyable review of the 1st Run Scale Trains SD40T-2. Like you, I purchased mine by pre-order, but I ordered 5 of them: 2 SP versions with sound decoders from the factory, and 2 SP and 1 Rio Grande version as DC but DCC ready. I purchased ESU v5 decoders and speakers as soon as they were available, but am just getting to the install jobs. At the time of this video, you said you hadn't looked inside, but my the time of the 2nd run, you did look under the hood. On my DCC ready models, the hood was not easily removed and took some prying with a small flat screwdriver. Once seeing the chasis uncovered, it was obvious how to remove the Scale Trains lighting board from the main board and locate the 21-pin connector for the decoder. What I was puzzled by was where to install the speakers. There was not much spare room around the chasis, and I wondered if the speakers were already installed. After all, it was sold as DCC-ready. The enclosed literature and on-line search for information was not helpful. A call to Scale Trains Support line got me some answers. By removing two screws on either side of the chasis, it splits on a horizontal plane, but longitudinally. Wiring from the main board on the top piece of the chasis run forward and aft to lighting clusters, and down thru holes to the motor and trucks. The wires in the longitudinal channel are secured there by plastic slot covers which are fit by friction pins to the chasis. I used a small screwdriver to pry up the rear cover. Underneath this top half of the chasis, just behind the motor is a pre-installed plastic baffle box size for two sugar cube speakers. I used ESU's 50321 speakers, which fit perfectly. The two 8 ohm speakers were wired in series and secured in the baffle. The wires went up thru a hole in the upper chasis and came out in the wiring groove. I routed the speaker wires forward toward the decoder and bunched all of the original wires back in the channel and replaced the cover. ESU's Support person told me to use the speaker connections on the main board of the model instead of splicing them directly to the decoder. The speaker solder pads are located toward the rear of the board, marked as S+ and S-. I had to push aside other wires to be able to reach the pads with a thin soldering iron tip and got the speaker wires secured. After that, the decoder and shell went back on without much issue. The last and most troublesome parts to reattach were the couplers. The model had large plows on both ends and would not allow the assembled coupler and box to be returned to their proper place. With much finagling, I managed to slide the separate parts into the slot and get them together and screwed in place. Now I have a friend who owns the Loksound Programmer who will load the files for the locos.
That sounds like quite a process. So far all my ScaleTrains tunnel motors have come with sound installed. It's nice that they have a place for the speakers. I've had that same issue with coupler boxes and snowplows on some models. I just changed the couplers on a Rapido diesel a while ago and ended up trimming down the bottom of the coupler box, because it couldn't be removed or re-installed without removing the plow. The extra detail under the coupler is pointless if it's hidden behind the plow anyway. It would be nice if model makers would take stuff like that into account, especially when they know a lot of people are going to want to replace oddball couplers with Kadees anyway. Thanks for watching!
I bought the 8307 snoot. Like your model, the sunshades were a bit sloppy. In addition, the speed recorder on the fireman's side front axle had fallen off. I had to glue it back on, it wouldn't stay without glue. I consider those issues niggling, the model is so beautifully detailed and painted that the minor stuff is easily off set. It runs flawlessly! Then there is that LokSound decoder, OMG. It's so capable and it sounds just terrific. Thanks for the review, Dan - excellent as always!
I don't think any of the detail issues on the model are that bad in and of themselves. It's still a beautiful model. At the same time, it's a little annoying to have to fix things on a brand new expensive model. Nonetheless, I like mine a lot. Thanks for watching!
My rivet counter would have made a perfect 10/10 on your review #8553, also why does the horn casting matter? The SP had several variations of the Nathan Airchime P3 horns they were almost never the same. Some tunnel motors in the 8300-8500 series had Nathan P5s but they were super rare.
I am comparing the horn to photos. If I were building the engine myself I'd try to get an accurate horn casting. I want the same thing for models that I purchase, especially expensive high-end models. Thanks for watching!
@@DanielCortopassi the thing is that I couldn't find a lot of photos of their other units. The only ones I've been able to locate is on rrpicturearchives dot net. I don't even know where exactly they get the archival photos.
Perhaps I'm missing something, but 1 month prior you made no mention of the horns on your review of Athearn's SP GP40P-2, yet you took off pts for this unit which has the same horn. SP's Nathan horn trumpets are interchangeable (and SP would switch things a lot), so which pix of SP 8558 did you see?? I guess I'm just asking cuz considering all the other details this unit has, it's hard to see how Scaletrains would miss that. Plus, I'd like to know why you take off for coupler heights when most modelers commonly switch to Kadees anyway??
When I research a model for prototype accuracy, I go by whatever photos I can find of the prototype unit. If the horn (or any other detail) on the model looks right, then it gets a pass. If it's obviously wrong then I make note of that. Most often I use photos that I find online at various sites that show railroad related images. As far as couplers go, I always evaluate the model as it comes out of the box. That's what you're paying for when you buy it, not any modifications you do later. I use Kadees, too, and I take the time to correct any coupler height issues. My opinion, though, is that coupler height, wheel gauges, and other related operational issues should be correct when the model comes out of the box. Thanks for watching!
With the possible exception of Rapido's pending RS-11, I think it fair to say this latest from Scaletrains is the cutting edge of 'RTR' technology. (Certainly the first 100% 'see though' tunnel-motor.) This model was a 'first run' too.. Shame some minor QC issues kept it from a higher score. But as you've always said, we are allowed to decide for ourselves how we score what you're showing us, so I'm giving it +15 for innovative rear truck design (for full see thru), and +5 for the front pilot detail (love that plow w/trainline notch). Don't give a fig for the 'incorrect horn', so scratching that.. and, pow! it's over 100 in my book. Nice job Scaletrains! Great review Dan. Your knowledge and experience is valued :)
Absolutely. I'm just trying to provide as much information as possible. The issues are relatively minor. It really is a nice model. Thanks for watching!
8558 was delivered with a Nathan P3 Horn, it appears it was replaced sometime in the late 1980’s early 90’s. As far as the STX model, it has the correct “as delivered” horn.
I’m a big fan of everything I’ve seen from ScaleTrains. I just wish I could afford one! I’ve seen a few reviews from people saying they received their engines with some QC issues. One guy had a grille completely missing on the back end of a Tier 4 Gevo. I know it’s probably a small sampling of the total number of products ScaleTrains has shipped, but I wonder if it’s more widespread and that they could use some improvement on their QC system.
They have since fixed their QC. My uncle recently got two new UP and BNSF Tier 4 GEVo (one of each), and they are fantastic! I plan on getting a UP Tier 4, and a BNSF C44-9W from them.
Quality control issues seem to happen with a lot of manufacturers. The issues with this tunnel motor were relatively minor. I do think ScaleTrains has improved in that area since they started. Thanks for watching!
I use Digitrax right now, though Unitrack should work with any DCC system. I use Unitrack for temporary setups and in the studio, both for DC and DCC. I haven't got an NCE system to test. Does the NCE have a programming track output in addition to the regular DCC connections? If you have a DC throttle you could use that to test the track. Maybe the connector track with wires is defective. Good luck and thanks for watching!
It would probably be more accurate era-wise for me to get rid of the oscillating lights, but I kind of hate to mess with this model. I think since 8558 had its lights until 1990 it will work for me as is. Thanks for watching!
The Athearn models can look really good with some detailing and weathering. The ScaleTrains model looks better out of the box, though, for sure. Thanks for watching!
When a horn is malfunctioning, they will switch it out with whatever they have handy---- at the moment!!! A diesel could go through 3 or more horns in a year with everyone of them being different! It is not difficult repairing a dead bell, the disk is just frozen up and it will not oscillate! It only takes a few minutes to switch one out!
I really liked this loco even with the small items you noted. Should get some points back for the fans visible only from the bottom and the grille details! Thanks Dan!!!
Great review Dan, as I have come to expect from you. With your vast knowledge I hope you can help me with a Generic question. I run HO and have 12 locos from various makers. I like to sometimes run night scenes as my layout is well lit, all lighted buildings streetlight, porch lights etc. the only loco that even begins to light up the track is my Lionel Polar Express loco. So why are HO headlights not brighter? And some of the ditch lights are really dim. Thanks and have a blessed day.
A lot of it has to do with the way manufacturers do their lenses, I think. It doesn't show up on video because any model headlight looks bright to the camera, but most of the time I'm not that crazy about the way the headlights look. When I do my own builds I use fiber optic strands with LEDs mounted inside the model. The fiber optics seem to help to focus and channel the light in the same direction. When I do engines that way they do light up the track ahead of them, which looks neat. Sometimes ditch lights are dim because they use light pipes or some arrangement that channels the light up instead of forward, so a lot of the light is wasted. Thanks for watching!
@@DanielCortopassi I have a serious question for you. Are you going to change any details on you're scaletrains tunnel motor? You talked about the horn being wrong and what about the couplers?
Dan, I like your reviews. Great Job. Can suggest a slight change to your review points. Do you think when you find a model that exceptional (the see through grills and the fans), that you should have a way of giving extra points for such esceptional detail.
That's an interesting idea. I will have to think about that. My aim is to apply the same set of standards to all models, at least as much as possible. If I could figure a way to give "extra credit" in a consistent way, then it might be doable. Thanks for the suggestion and for watching!
I agree. Most aftermarket metal sunshades have tabs that stick into holes in the model. They hold up pretty well for the most part. I've never liked glued on sunshades, as they always fall off eventually. Thanks for watching!
I'm sorry I respect your opinion but I feel scale trains leaves athearn in the dust and puts them to shame...period. athearn is still living in 2002 with their lack of detail such as fake ditch lights on the ge widecabs
This review is about the ScaleTrains model. It's not a comparison with the Athearn tunnel motor, though the ScaleTrains model has better detail in many respects than the Athearn tunnel motor. Thanks for watching!
Gracias 👍
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Daniel, I'm late in watching your enjoyable review of the 1st Run Scale Trains SD40T-2. Like you, I purchased mine by pre-order, but I ordered 5 of them: 2 SP versions with sound decoders from the factory, and 2 SP and 1 Rio Grande version as DC but DCC ready. I purchased ESU v5 decoders and speakers as soon as they were available, but am just getting to the install jobs. At the time of this video, you said you hadn't looked inside, but my the time of the 2nd run, you did look under the hood. On my DCC ready models, the hood was not easily removed and took some prying with a small flat screwdriver. Once seeing the chasis uncovered, it was obvious how to remove the Scale Trains lighting board from the main board and locate the 21-pin connector for the decoder. What I was puzzled by was where to install the speakers. There was not much spare room around the chasis, and I wondered if the speakers were already installed. After all, it was sold as DCC-ready. The enclosed literature and on-line search for information was not helpful. A call to Scale Trains Support line got me some answers. By removing two screws on either side of the chasis, it splits on a horizontal plane, but longitudinally. Wiring from the main board on the top piece of the chasis run forward and aft to lighting clusters, and down thru holes to the motor and trucks. The wires in the longitudinal channel are secured there by plastic slot covers which are fit by friction pins to the chasis. I used a small screwdriver to pry up the rear cover. Underneath this top half of the chasis, just behind the motor is a pre-installed plastic baffle box size for two sugar cube speakers. I used ESU's 50321 speakers, which fit perfectly. The two 8 ohm speakers were wired in series and secured in the baffle. The wires went up thru a hole in the upper chasis and came out in the wiring groove. I routed the speaker wires forward toward the decoder and bunched all of the original wires back in the channel and replaced the cover. ESU's Support person told me to use the speaker connections on the main board of the model instead of splicing them directly to the decoder. The speaker solder pads are located toward the rear of the board, marked as S+ and S-. I had to push aside other wires to be able to reach the pads with a thin soldering iron tip and got the speaker wires secured. After that, the decoder and shell went back on without much issue. The last and most troublesome parts to reattach were the couplers. The model had large plows on both ends and would not allow the assembled coupler and box to be returned to their proper place. With much finagling, I managed to slide the separate parts into the slot and get them together and screwed in place. Now I have a friend who owns the Loksound Programmer who will load the files for the locos.
That sounds like quite a process. So far all my ScaleTrains tunnel motors have come with sound installed. It's nice that they have a place for the speakers. I've had that same issue with coupler boxes and snowplows on some models. I just changed the couplers on a Rapido diesel a while ago and ended up trimming down the bottom of the coupler box, because it couldn't be removed or re-installed without removing the plow. The extra detail under the coupler is pointless if it's hidden behind the plow anyway. It would be nice if model makers would take stuff like that into account, especially when they know a lot of people are going to want to replace oddball couplers with Kadees anyway. Thanks for watching!
Another excellent review Dan thanks
Thanks for watching!
Great video as always!
Thanks for watching!
I love tunnel motors thanks for sharing this with us.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Daniel Cortopassi like I’ve said. I like your work and how you apply it. Plus I think you give a great explanation on the how’s and why’s.
Gorgeous model. I love the detail. I miss the SP. So, thanks for the review.
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
I bought the 8307 snoot. Like your model, the sunshades were a bit sloppy. In addition, the speed recorder on the fireman's side front axle had fallen off. I had to glue it back on, it wouldn't stay without glue. I consider those issues niggling, the model is so beautifully detailed and painted that the minor stuff is easily off set. It runs flawlessly! Then there is that LokSound decoder, OMG. It's so capable and it sounds just terrific. Thanks for the review, Dan - excellent as always!
I don't think any of the detail issues on the model are that bad in and of themselves. It's still a beautiful model. At the same time, it's a little annoying to have to fix things on a brand new expensive model. Nonetheless, I like mine a lot. Thanks for watching!
What was the purpose of having the city's name on the cab?
On SP I'm pretty sure the city stencils were for that particular engine's home base. Thanks for watching!
My rivet counter would have made a perfect 10/10 on your review #8553, also why does the horn casting matter? The SP had several variations of the Nathan Airchime P3 horns they were almost never the same. Some tunnel motors in the 8300-8500 series had Nathan P5s but they were super rare.
I am comparing the horn to photos. If I were building the engine myself I'd try to get an accurate horn casting. I want the same thing for models that I purchase, especially expensive high-end models. Thanks for watching!
@@DanielCortopassi the thing is that I couldn't find a lot of photos of their other units. The only ones I've been able to locate is on rrpicturearchives dot net. I don't even know where exactly they get the archival photos.
wow so much details Dan,
Yes, it's got plenty of detail for sure. Thanks for watching!
Perhaps I'm missing something, but 1 month prior you made no mention of the horns on your review of Athearn's SP GP40P-2, yet you took off pts for this unit which has the same horn. SP's Nathan horn trumpets are interchangeable (and SP would switch things a lot), so which pix of SP 8558 did you see?? I guess I'm just asking cuz considering all the other details this unit has, it's hard to see how Scaletrains would miss that. Plus, I'd like to know why you take off for coupler heights when most modelers commonly switch to Kadees anyway??
When I research a model for prototype accuracy, I go by whatever photos I can find of the prototype unit. If the horn (or any other detail) on the model looks right, then it gets a pass. If it's obviously wrong then I make note of that. Most often I use photos that I find online at various sites that show railroad related images. As far as couplers go, I always evaluate the model as it comes out of the box. That's what you're paying for when you buy it, not any modifications you do later. I use Kadees, too, and I take the time to correct any coupler height issues. My opinion, though, is that coupler height, wheel gauges, and other related operational issues should be correct when the model comes out of the box. Thanks for watching!
With the possible exception of Rapido's pending RS-11, I think it fair to say this latest from Scaletrains is the cutting edge of 'RTR' technology. (Certainly the first 100% 'see though' tunnel-motor.) This model was a 'first run' too.. Shame some minor QC issues kept it from a higher score.
But as you've always said, we are allowed to decide for ourselves how we score what you're showing us, so I'm giving it +15 for innovative rear truck design (for full see thru), and +5 for the front pilot detail (love that plow w/trainline notch). Don't give a fig for the 'incorrect horn', so scratching that.. and, pow! it's over 100 in my book. Nice job Scaletrains!
Great review Dan. Your knowledge and experience is valued :)
Absolutely. I'm just trying to provide as much information as possible. The issues are relatively minor. It really is a nice model. Thanks for watching!
8558 was delivered with a Nathan P3 Horn, it appears it was replaced sometime in the late 1980’s early 90’s.
As far as the STX model, it has the correct “as delivered” horn.
Thanks for the information!
Wow! I like this one
It's a very nice model overall. Thanks for watching!
I’m a big fan of everything I’ve seen from ScaleTrains. I just wish I could afford one! I’ve seen a few reviews from people saying they received their engines with some QC issues. One guy had a grille completely missing on the back end of a Tier 4 Gevo. I know it’s probably a small sampling of the total number of products ScaleTrains has shipped, but I wonder if it’s more widespread and that they could use some improvement on their QC system.
They have since fixed their QC. My uncle recently got two new UP and BNSF Tier 4 GEVo (one of each), and they are fantastic! I plan on getting a UP Tier 4, and a BNSF C44-9W from them.
Quality control issues seem to happen with a lot of manufacturers. The issues with this tunnel motor were relatively minor. I do think ScaleTrains has improved in that area since they started. Thanks for watching!
Which Dcc system do u use? It looks like u have Kato unitrack. I am having trouble getting my nec dcc system to work with my Kato track.
I use Digitrax right now, though Unitrack should work with any DCC system. I use Unitrack for temporary setups and in the studio, both for DC and DCC. I haven't got an NCE system to test. Does the NCE have a programming track output in addition to the regular DCC connections? If you have a DC throttle you could use that to test the track. Maybe the connector track with wires is defective. Good luck and thanks for watching!
I also got the model of 8558. Are you modeling yours with or without the Gyralites?
It would probably be more accurate era-wise for me to get rid of the oscillating lights, but I kind of hate to mess with this model. I think since 8558 had its lights until 1990 it will work for me as is. Thanks for watching!
TRAIN: my coupler height is...
TSG Multimedia : splish splash that spike just went in the trash
No TSG here. Just me. Thanks for watching!
Ok
I definitely had a feeling you'd review this one. Great review Dan!
Well, it is an SP engine... haha. Thanks for watching!
Now I regret buying the athearn ones instead of waiting longer for the scaletrains ones. Looks like a great model!
No regrets, Athearn's RTR units came out nearly 15 years ago. I'll keep my fleet and run Scaletrains as lead units.
The Athearn models can look really good with some detailing and weathering. The ScaleTrains model looks better out of the box, though, for sure. Thanks for watching!
When a horn is malfunctioning, they will switch it out with whatever they have handy---- at the moment!!! A diesel could go through 3 or more horns in a year with everyone of them being different! It is not difficult repairing a dead bell, the disk is just frozen up and it will not oscillate! It only takes a few minutes to switch one out!
Good points. Thanks for watching!
Great Review Dan, Good lookin Engine
Thanks for watching!
i was waiting for this
Glad I got it out then! Thanks for watching!
I really liked this loco even with the small items you noted. Should get some points back for the fans visible only from the bottom and the grille details! Thanks Dan!!!
This model really does have some cutting edge features. I hope ScaleTrains continues the trend. Thanks for watching!
Great review Dan, as I have come to expect from you. With your vast knowledge I hope you can help me with a Generic question. I run HO and have 12 locos from various makers. I like to sometimes run night scenes as my layout is well lit, all lighted buildings streetlight, porch lights etc. the only loco that even begins to light up the track is my Lionel Polar Express loco. So why are HO headlights not brighter? And some of the ditch lights are really dim. Thanks and have a blessed day.
A lot of it has to do with the way manufacturers do their lenses, I think. It doesn't show up on video because any model headlight looks bright to the camera, but most of the time I'm not that crazy about the way the headlights look. When I do my own builds I use fiber optic strands with LEDs mounted inside the model. The fiber optics seem to help to focus and channel the light in the same direction. When I do engines that way they do light up the track ahead of them, which looks neat. Sometimes ditch lights are dim because they use light pipes or some arrangement that channels the light up instead of forward, so a lot of the light is wasted. Thanks for watching!
I still like my athearn ones, but I do want 8558 eventually
I have a bunch of the Athearn units too. They can look good with some detailing & weathering. Thanks for watching!
@@DanielCortopassi I have a serious question for you. Are you going to change any details on you're scaletrains tunnel motor? You talked about the horn being wrong and what about the couplers?
Awesome review! I planned on getting one, but missed preorders. Maybe next run.
I'd be surprised if they didn't do this one again a time or two. Thanks for watching!
Dan, I like your reviews. Great Job. Can suggest a slight change to your review points. Do you think when you find a model that exceptional (the see through grills and the fans), that you should have a way of giving extra points for such esceptional
detail.
That's an interesting idea. I will have to think about that. My aim is to apply the same set of standards to all models, at least as much as possible. If I could figure a way to give "extra credit" in a consistent way, then it might be doable. Thanks for the suggestion and for watching!
That does look tasty!
It's a nice model. Thanks for watching!
The mold lines are very crisp on these when doing a side by side comparison with Athearn's. I wasn't going to purchase any until I saw one :)
The shell is very well done on these. Everything looks nice and sharp. Thanks for watching!
Beautiful model but they definitely need a better way of attaching the sun shades to the cab
I agree. Most aftermarket metal sunshades have tabs that stick into holes in the model. They hold up pretty well for the most part. I've never liked glued on sunshades, as they always fall off eventually. Thanks for watching!
I was waiting on this review of the ScaleTrains.com version of the Southern Pacific SD40T-2 from you.
I'm glad I was able to get it out in a relatively short time. Thanks for watching!
I'm sorry I respect your opinion but I feel scale trains leaves athearn in the dust and puts them to shame...period. athearn is still living in 2002 with their lack of detail such as fake ditch lights on the ge widecabs
This review is about the ScaleTrains model. It's not a comparison with the Athearn tunnel motor, though the ScaleTrains model has better detail in many respects than the Athearn tunnel motor. Thanks for watching!
Those sundhades are a total joke
They definitely could look better. Thanks for watching!
I was waiting on this review of the ScaleTrains.com version of the Southern Pacific SD40T-2 from you.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!