How to Install a PEI Flexible Magnetic Bed on a Ender 3v2 3D Printer (Upgrade)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video I show you how to install a flexible magnetic bed on a Creality Ender 3v2 3D printer. The flexible magnetic bed upgrade consists of plate of spring steel with a PEI coating on it. The bed is magnetized to a magnet that is adhered to the print bed with a 3M adhesive backer. Check out the links below for more information!
☑️ 3D PRINTER ☑️
Creality Ender 3 V2: amzn.to/3rsnphn
☑️ FLEXIBLE MAGNETIC BED ☑️
PEI Flexible Magnetic Bed: amzn.to/3JS9Y0e
☑️ SOCIAL MEDIA ☑️
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I realize this is a 1y old episode, but regarding sticking to glass, I found that a flat wood chisel is way better than the included scraper. It is super sharp and will slide under the print to pry it up.
The glass surface is great, just clean it with alcohol before the print, and either use a chisel, or wait for the cool down when it'll unstick without any problems.
I am only upgrading the bed because I understand PETG doesn't play well with glass.
This said, thanks a lot for the instructions :)
Important: Check the following before sticking down the adhesive plate. After my initial install (Months ago) I found the magnetic grip was weaker than I had expected. I have purchased another brand and I found out (For both brands) that the magnetic pull is far greater depending on which direction the sticker goes down. Test the top plate on the sticker base before installation. If it appears weak, turn the sticker 90 degrees compared to the flex plate and you'll find the grip is 10 times stronger. As I said, this is the same for the two brands (Creality and Kingroon). If this is the case for other brands, I can only wonder why this is not mentioned in any installation guide.
Good tip! That makes sense, actually.
Thanks
Very good point thanks so much for sharing! Glad I saw this before installing. The brand I purchased had a pretty significant difference in strengths from direction change
Thank you for this tip!
This is EXACTLY what I needed to see. I knew it was going to be difficult to get the adhesive magnet sheet aligned with the aluminum plate, and you perfectly showed a great way to do it. Thank you!
:)
the alignment of the magnetic pad about 3:40 makes me feel stupid haha, I've install several of these and I've never thot of doing it this way. Kudos!
Exactly what I needed to see for how to adjust the z after installing a new bed! Thanks!
I recommend upgrading the bed leveling springs with stiffer ones, and adding an auto-levelling sensor like a CR-Touch or a BL-Touch as the magnetic flexible surface is not as plane as the original glass bed , otherwise you might struggle a lot with the manual leveling procedure.
Thank you, just bought this exact plate and have this exact printer.
I was up and running in less than 10 minutes (15 included the manual bed mesh), prints like a dream!
Great video, thanks for posting.
Thanks for this!
Very nice how you explain how to use Pei. We need more of these instructable video`s. Thank you very much, thumbs up.
Thanks for the comment! :)
Thank you sir. Very helpful
You are very welcome! Like and subscribe and happy printing!
As a total 3D printing Noob I thought I was doing something wrong since my prints were an absolute bitch to remove from the glass bed on my V2. I have been using a cleaner / degreaser to clean the glass, a product called Gyeon which is meant to clean auto finishes prior to applying ceramics. I thought that was my issue, so I switched to IPA hopping that would fix the releasing issue. I have this creality pei sheet still in the box since I have other mods that I have been installing. After your video, I'm going slap this on and give it a go. At least I know that I'm not the only one with an aggressive glass sticking issue. Subbed
Good luck, hope it works better for you!
A lot of your degreasers and cleaners will actually improve adhesion and make it harder to remove.
The main thing, I think, is that you need to let your bed cool sufficiently before trying to remove it. You can freeze it, but I even just let my prints sit until the bed has been back down to 20c for quite a while, and they usually pop off nicely. Or sometimes I just use the included spatula and a mallet. lol.
Most of my interest here is that I don't like having the clips take up print space and risk interfering with the head. By "Risk", I mean I've come home to a pile of filament spaghetti because the head popped off a clip and slid the whole bed off. A Bad mounting mechanism for sure.
I wish there was way to easily swap between spring steel pei and glass bed. Prusa does this by embeding magnets in the aluminum base, so they're not in the way. Also never had troubles releasing PLA prints from carborundum glass. you just need to wait few minutes to cool from 60C to like 50 or 45C, then the release is much easier. after waiting for it to cool even further it usualy even unsticks by itself.
Great video! I was having the same issue with prints sticking too well. Although I haven't broken a print yet, it takes way too long to remove one. I have to use a razor blade to get an edge started. That isn't very safe. Looking forward to using my flexible bed. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the comment! Flexible beds are definitely the way to go, enjoy!
Excellent, thank you sir.
Hi I see in some videos bed temp needs higher like 70c normal pla printings, how is your experience? I ordered yesterday too. I'm waiting for my parcel.
isopropyl alcohol also greatly helps release the print from the glass. give it time.
I can see there is a small overlap. What size have you ordered and what are the real dimensions of the sheet? Thank you
THANNK YOU
I have a cr 6 se and glass bed, can I put the PEI Print Plate directly on the aluminum heated surface without magnets?
Hey so when I moved the z axis motor switch down the bed still has a lot of speciation from the hot end any tips?
I just bought one for my ender 3 v2 as well, got so many issues with my glass bed with prints just not sticking to the bed anymore ... annopying as heck. Been printing on tape but that's not really a solution i think. You make the installation look easy wnough tho, thanks for the vid.
Flexible magnetic beds are definitely the way to go! Enjoy!
Just got mine
do you find that this bed is more helpful with adhesion than the glass?? I have such an issue with first layer adhesion it's frustrating
So, why choose the PEI bed cover instead of the Creality cover? The flex bed sounds more convenient than using the freezer, but prints do just pop off (some just fall off by themselves) if you chill it for a couple minutes.
I got one because when I did the freezer method the rough side of the glass, like the black dots, came come with it. That whole layer detached.
Could just be me, but sharing my experience why I switched.
What if mine has a magnetic adhesive on there already?
Do you still need to pit glie on the bed
what about just waiting for glass bed to cool down a little bit and the model comes off without any force?
Is there a guide on using the sheet of paper for the normal levelling process you mentioned?
There probably are a few videos online. The idea is that for each corner, you should be able to push a piece of paper below, and feel a bit of resistance.
I'm assuming this works on a ender 3 v1 right?
hi do you need to put hair spray on that now or just print on it? thinking about getting the same thing for mine?
Hi Josh W. I found that I don’t need hairspray or any other adhesive when using the PEI flexible bed. As long as your bed is properly leveled and you have your temps set properly, the print will stick on its own. Hope that helps! Would appreciate if you used my affiliate links :) Like and subscribe and happy printing!
What Temps are recommended? My bed is level but my print isn't sticking at all
Make sure to have no airballs underneath, they lower the quality from your build by aloud, i had to rip it off wich isn´t good for the stickyniss...
not bad video by any means but i would highly recommend anyone watching this to clean the surface of the bed with 90% alcohol first but other than that great video!
So I installed one of these and now the bed is too low. I bring z-level down to zero and I also use the manual bed leveler wheels to bring the bed as high as it will go - but I'm still way too far off.
I have opposite problem with Ender Neo - the model is getting detached from the glass bed while still getting printed.. Any suggestions what to do? Brande new printer. Thx!
Probably you already figured it out - but wipe it with alcohol. It's not sticking because there's grease from your hands on the surface.
Shouldnt move the switch, just adjust the z off set
So lets say I went and slapped it ontop of the glass bed instead XD how likely would it be removable haha so i can restick it onto the metal build plate ? just heat it enough so i can peal it or just buy a new one XD
There is no way you are going to get the magnet off of the glass bed and reapplied to the metal build plate but with it on the glass bed is still perfectly usable.
I'd love to do this, but my bed is extremely warped :/
I heard that magnets can get damaged, lose their strength over time, and their surface becomes uneven especially for high temp printing such as ABS, Any tips on how to deal with that?
The demagnetization temperature varies depending on the magnet materials. You have different levels. What I refer to as "Elastic" and "Plastic" demagetization. Not sure the technical term for them, but I get these from plastic and elastic deformation in materials science.
Elastic demagnetization is at a lower temperature. It temporarily disorganizes the material, causing it to lose magnetism, but magetism is restored when the temperature returns. This is used in rice cookers to deactivate the heater as soon as the bowl gets just above boiling.
Plastic demagnitization is at a higher temperature. It causes permanent demagnetization. Some might be restored at lower temperature, but it will continue to creep away and magnetization will fade over time.
The example using rice cookers shows that they can have pretty good control over when demagnetization occurs. And manufacturers of 3d printer beds know they are working with higher temperatures. You'll want to check what range they recommend. Any of these should be safe with PLA. But it might be harder to find one that works with ABS, which needs temperatures of like 130C+.
My main concern with these has more to do with the thermal conductivity of polymer magnets. As far as I understand, they are almost always great thermal insulators, which is something you don't want when transferring heat from a heater to a bed. I'll have to look more into that part.
You should clean the bed before sticking the sheet.
Using the scraper on the glass just ruins the texture coating and removing prints is as easy as waiting a few min for the bed to cool down. It releases the prints with no force required.
👍👍👍👍👍
If I want to go back to the glass bed how hard is it to remove the magnet.
Hey Cameron, thanks for the question! I have not personally removed the magnet before, but I have seen other people who have. If you use the putty knife it shouldn't be too difficult to remove....you could always use a bit of alcohol to help remove it and clean off the surface to remove the residue. That being said, I think once you go to a flexible magnetic bed you probably wont want to go back to glass. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions! I am posting some new videos soon, so make sure to subscribe :) Happy printing!
Couldn’t you just put the glass plate over the magnet then level your bed again?
@@memedeck6026 the clips wont work for the glass bed
Use binder clips
It's a bitch so make sure you really want to do this before pulling the trigger.
Can't you just raise the bed level instead of lowering the switch?
was thinking the same thing though maybe he doesnt want to calibrate the corners again?
@@playerone6373that would loosen the screws a lot thus keeping less pressure on the springs possibly causing it to be uneaven. Not an expert but yeah springs should be as tight as possible but not too tight
@@serialshitposter186 not sure how to reply on ur comment.
the guy lowered the switch which is a bit unreliable instead of leveling the bed.
springs has nothing to do with the switch. its all about leveling.
You know you could just get a cr touch and not mess with that. You may have to go into the z-offset probe wizard and get your feeler guage or paper though but the amount of time you save
If you let the glass bed cool down the parts come right off.
I just got one and it did not come with the magnetic sheet at all just the metal plate.. its not in the box at all
Are you sure? I've just had mine delivered and thought the same as you but on closer inspection the fit between the 'thinness' of both pieces makes it look like only one piece.....they're stuck magnetically together and so just seem to be one piece
@@stuffoflardohfortheloveof I realized I ordered the wrong one it was meant for if you had bought their entire bed replacement set which is already magnetic
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Do you all know that print will easily self-release once the glass bed is cooled down, right?
Never had any luck with that unless you talking about throwing a freezer or refrigerator. I've had print set for 24 hours and they're more stuck than a wedgie
With the glass bed I've tried waiting for the prints to cool down to room temp but that didn't really help much, but with a flexible bed it should be really easy to pop the the prints right off as soon as they finish printing
When using PLA, that might be correct. However, PETG and ASA tend to stick really bad, sometimes so much that it can damage (chip) the glass bed, even when completely cooled.
My new PEI plate already sticks to my print bed. Why do I need the rubber adhesive sheet? Help!!!
4:39 DO NOT USE YOUR CREDIT CARD! Use someone else's credit card.
I just use an external HDD for all my magnet flattening needs.
@@ThePsho very good sir
the way that you are touching the bed with your hands making it dity hurts me inside
Dude I can see you using glue on this glass
sorry but it's hard to take your advice when I see you are still using the stock springs for the bed. That should literally be the first thing you do to a ender 3 printer.
Thanks for this!