Never thought of shearing off the remainder of the clutch shaft bolt, I simply cut mine in two ordered another one along with a new HD bolt and drilled the broke piece out, your method worked the best.
Thx , just imagine there stood a person right beside you laughing at you all the way while making the fault good again 😂😂👍 love the humour, never tired of seeing your work 👍🚗
Seeing the throwout bearing, slave cylinder, and u joints brings back fond and not-so-fond memories of my 1976 Spitfire. It was 1978 and I was a high school senior. No $$$ for a mechanic - I had to work on it myself. BTW, you have the patience of a saint.
The shifter spring and ball is an anti rattle for the shifter. It will drive you nuts with out it. You have to keep your hand on the shifter to stop the noise. I found a spring and ball from a broken synchronizer. It can be put in with the transmission in the car. Good job on getting the broken pin out.
I remember doing nearly all this stuff on a TR-4A gearbox and clutch housing.. Oh joy.. You do well not to have a 'sware box' .. We emptied ours on Friday evenings to help buy the beer.. By the following Wednesday it was full again and we had the dreadful inconvenience of having to spend it down the pub again. Great video Elin..
Hi Elin, thank you so much for the time you spend in the documentation of your work. The expanation of the gear interlock was very useful. You already helped me several times with my project of "TR6 parts visualization" that is also here on youtube vsible. One point to the spring of the gear shift lever: I think you installed it up side down. For that reason you had to stretch it a little bit. The large diameter of the spring should be on top at the dome. But it will work, anyway. Please proceed!!!
I had The same sheared tapered pin within the shifting fork and couldn’t pull the shaft out. Since the pin goes thru the shaft and into a blind hole meaning you can’t see the end of the pin that is buried in the fork there was no way to remove it, until I drilled a 3/32” hole from the upper side of the fork down into the pin hole within the fork. A 3/32 drift punch was then used to easily tap the stuck broken end of the tapered pin out. Lining up the drill correctly was the hard part. I don’t believe that the small hole will reduce the fork strength at all AND it will be there for next time!
I did the same with my TR4. I also drilled a second hole through the yoke and shaft to install a 1/4 inch grade 8 bolt as a backup to the retaining pin.
My E-type Jag clutch fork pin was snapped and the remains were seized into the shaft. I didn't know about your trick of shearing off the piece holding the shaft in, but I ended up destroying my clutch fork to get it out.
Hi Elin, I subscribed to you a few months ago as wanted to watch videos on the Spitfire and the GT6 and I’m so glad I found you, you have taught me so much over these last months so thank you for that. I am building a kit car (a Gentry which is a MG TF replica) based on a Triumph Spitfire and Vitesse - the chassis, engine and gearbox is Vitesse 2 ltr while the rest is Spitfire. I love the way you present your videos, you make them so interesting (and funny) to watch so please keep the videos coming, they are so entertaining, I have just started my own TH-cam channel but I’m a long way off from yours! Cheers from the U.K. my friend. …………Graham
Buddy got a broken pin out by putting JB weld on the end of pin.. put the part that came out back in to match up with the piece that didn't come out.... waited over night and out it came...
Did you reinstall the pin in the bearing carrier? After lots of reading it seems the pin should go into steel carriers to prevent galling from spinning and be left out of the heavy duty bronze ones since they won't. You could see it in the one you removed and in fact looks like the point of failure.
Never tire of watching your videos. Makes me chuckle when you say “on my way” instead of “in my way” …..see, I’m chuckling as I type it!
I just cannot believe how calm you remain whatever goes wrong. You must be the most laid back person in the world.
I enjoy your common sense solutions to the odd mechanical problems, the sheared pin in particular.
Never thought of shearing off the remainder of the clutch shaft bolt, I simply cut mine in two ordered another one along with a new HD bolt and drilled the broke piece out, your method worked the best.
Not at all tired of the engine (and drive train) rebuilds. The greasier you get, the more I learn.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills.
Thx , just imagine there stood a person right beside you laughing at you all the way while making the fault good again 😂😂👍 love the humour, never tired of seeing your work 👍🚗
Seeing the throwout bearing, slave cylinder, and u joints brings back fond and not-so-fond memories of my 1976 Spitfire. It was 1978 and I was a high school senior. No $$$ for a mechanic - I had to work on it myself. BTW, you have the patience of a saint.
The shifter spring and ball is an anti rattle for the shifter. It will drive you nuts with out it. You have to keep your hand on the shifter to stop the noise. I found a spring and ball from a broken synchronizer. It can be put in with the transmission in the car.
Good job on getting the broken pin out.
Happy for you, Elin, to see that the cast is gone. Congratulations!
Not at all tired from engine builds. I like them ! 😃
I remember doing nearly all this stuff on a TR-4A gearbox and clutch housing.. Oh joy.. You do well not to have a 'sware box' .. We emptied ours on Friday evenings to help buy the beer.. By the following Wednesday it was full again and we had the dreadful inconvenience of having to spend it down the pub again. Great video Elin..
Hi Elin, thank you so much for the time you spend in the documentation of your work. The expanation of the gear interlock was very useful. You already helped me several times with my project of "TR6 parts visualization" that is also here on youtube vsible. One point to the spring of the gear shift lever: I think you installed it up side down. For that reason you had to stretch it a little bit. The large diameter of the spring should be on top at the dome. But it will work, anyway. Please proceed!!!
I’m sure you reassembled it quicker the second time. Very informative. Thank you.
I noticed that your cast has been removed. I bet your glad about that. I really enjoy your channel
Clever how you removed the clutch shaft. Well done!
The BFG is a versatile tool!
@@BajaBill7 Agreed. What it lacks in subtilty it makes up for in brute force.
I had The same sheared tapered pin within the shifting fork and couldn’t pull the shaft out. Since the pin goes thru the shaft and into a blind hole meaning you can’t see the end of the pin that is buried in the fork there was no way to remove it, until I drilled a 3/32” hole from the upper side of the fork down into the pin hole within the fork. A 3/32 drift punch was then used to easily tap the stuck broken end of the tapered pin out. Lining up the drill correctly was the hard part.
I don’t believe that the small hole will reduce the fork strength at all AND it will be there for next time!
I did the same with my TR4. I also drilled a second hole through the yoke and shaft to install a 1/4 inch grade 8 bolt as a backup to the retaining pin.
My E-type Jag clutch fork pin was snapped and the remains were seized into the shaft. I didn't know about your trick of shearing off the piece holding the shaft in, but I ended up destroying my clutch fork to get it out.
Looking great. It’s going to drive like a new car.
I never had any luck with screw extractors either, it usually made it worse by having a hardened steel broken bit stuck in the hole as well!
Your laughter sounds like you’re on the verge of becoming an evil villain (LOL). Love your choice of sleepyhead music.
Elin, great video, thanks again,eric
Hi Elin, I subscribed to you a few months ago as wanted to watch videos on the Spitfire and the GT6 and I’m so glad I found you, you have taught me so much over these last months so thank you for that. I am building a kit car (a Gentry which is a MG TF replica) based on a Triumph Spitfire and Vitesse - the chassis, engine and gearbox is Vitesse 2 ltr while the rest is Spitfire. I love the way you present your videos, you make them so interesting (and funny) to watch so please keep the videos coming, they are so entertaining, I have just started my own TH-cam channel but I’m a long way off from yours! Cheers from the U.K. my friend. …………Graham
Give Tush a call. He might have a spare shifter spring in his his boxes of parts!
Nice work ! Very informative .
Buddy got a broken pin out by putting JB weld on the end of pin.. put the part that came out back in to match up with the piece that didn't come out.... waited over night and out it came...
That sounded like Chef Tush laughing
Very exciting! I'm assuming when I replace the bearings and synchros it's a straight forward job?
Did you reinstall the pin in the bearing carrier? After lots of reading it seems the pin should go into steel carriers to prevent galling from spinning and be left out of the heavy duty bronze ones since they won't. You could see it in the one you removed and in fact looks like the point of failure.
I think we're all still watching. I think I' d rather pay for shipping my TR to Canada for an engine rebuild than trust a California shop.
Elin, are those crocs steel capped ?
Is that Carlos laughing at you?
Why did you give up building the GT6?