Follow up as of 2 March 2019, the part 2 video is not posted, because this customer ended up doing the repair themselves to save $$$. The high pressure pump was in fact the issue and customer stated that truck ran just fine and no DTC's returned after the replacement...hopefully this was helpful. As always, thanks for watching and please let me know if you have anything to add to this video in the comments section below.
Hi Pauly! 🫡 I know it's been years since you made this extremely knowledgeable and helpful video, and I'm no mechanic for sure 😁... If I may ask sir... My 2012 Ford F-150 Lariat 3.5L V6 EB suddenly wouldn't start, it would crank and act extremely sluggish, no start... I got a code of "P00C6 permanent" reading from the Walmart brand OBD reader... Backstory: I had an issue where as my Ford was dying sluggish low power as I was driving... Was told the number 6 and 5 spark plugs was misfiring... So I took my Ford to the local Ford dealership and had the spark plugs and ignition coils replaced, and all the wire connectors shells pins removed and new connectors shells put on (had alot of broken connectors going to the ignition coils) all done just 1 week before this new issue happened... Note: The truck ran just fine after the repairs? Could the sensor become loose? Or is it the same issue you had in this video? Or something else completely? My wife thinks maybe possibly the local Ford dealership did something wrong or damaged something while doing the repairs? Your thoughts and feedback bro of what's going on? God Bless and Thank you for your time and support with this video. 447th Signal Fort Gordon, Georgia.
Thanks for the kind words, I'm gonna have to say unless you got injectors that are leaking down you probably have a high pump issue, but it's also possible that you don't have enough flow coming from that low side pump. Best thing to do is to do a low side pressure check with a gauge and get a scan tool data pid up for the high side pressure pid. Based on the DTC set and the symptoms I'm gonna say I would lean towards a high pressure fuel pump.
Any advice on releasing the high pressure before cracking the line? Or just let it sit for an extended period before doing so, that way the pressure will dissipate?
You mention use common sense cause of the pressure in it ? How can i remove it and be safe ? I need to change my valve cover gasket and need to remove the high pressure pump on it. ?
crack her open and cover it with a couple shop rags so it doesn't spray all over or get you in the face...pressure will bleed off...I'm talking about using common sense...think about cracking a Soda open after you shook it up.
i have a 2019 F-150 with the V8 and it shut down on me on the way home with my kids in it too. only 50k miles on it. Service guy said the fuel pump wasnt getting enough power so the wiring was bad. Enging was craking over but would not start. should hear back from Ford tomorrow. it should be covered under Powertrain warranty. My point is for a newer truck with 50k miles this should not be happening. im planning on selling it for something else once its fixed. first Ford ive ever had and the last. your right Jason, there beautiful trucks they shouldnt be having these issues
Cool diag man !! Quick tip for all GDI engines I've ever seen which is Ford GM, an Hyundai only but they are all the same is near as I can tell. Any way I have seen a high pressure pump suck from the tank. The in tank pump was completely dead open circuit. The high pressure pump was actually sucking around 60-80 psi an the car actually ran decent. So I like to check the low side pressure key on engine off so that the high pressure pump isn't working if that makes sense. Or I throw an amp clamp around the low pressure pump driver module output to the pump when it's running. Any way just another variable. You may already know this.
These are great suggestions, I'm definitely going to be doing this in my future videos. Never thought about a high pressure pump pulling fuel directly from the tank like that with a shorted low side pump...great point! Thanks for sharing this with everyone, including myself Caleb! Also, thanks for subscribing, appreciate your support, and feedback!
Just seen this video and it may help me out, maybe you’ll see my question. So I went to test the low side fuel pressure on my grandfathers 2014 3.5 eco boost very similar to how you’re plumbed in as well with a mechanical gauge. Now because it’s not running very well occasionally and he said it’s getting low fuel rail pressure codes. Now when I test it key on engine off it holds around 50 psi but if you start the truck up it starts bouncing like crazy from 0-50 psi roughly and I’ve never seen anything like it, I’ve used the gauge before so I don’t believe it’s the gauge. I’m just wondering if it’s the pump or the fpdm if these have one and what you think of that? Thanks!
Some fluttering is considered normal and it's from the HP Pump. I'd have to check the VIN to examine the Fuel System to find out if it has a FPDCM...I believe almost all these Fords do.
@@PaulysAuto Thanks! I didn’t expect a reply so quick, I’d have to take a video for you to really see what I mean and I would understand some fluttering as well but no it isn’t like that, as soon as you fire it up the gauge starts freaking out going from 0 back to about 50 back and forth so fast you can’t tell what it is going to exactly and I thought it would wreck the gauge with how fast it was going, almost in sync with the rpm or the hpfp so we shut it down. I feel like it is an issue with the fuel supply from seeing what the gauge did but wondering if it does have an fpdm and if it could cause that or if the pump in the tank is more likely possibly. Thanks again it was the strangest thing, I’ll see if I can get a video of it.
'13 F150 EB. Should the high pressure side maintain fuel pressure at key off only? Started experiencing a long extended start only on cold starts. No codes. Data logging truck noticed the longer the truck sits after last start the high pressure side pressure falls off. At idle logged 800-900 psi. Key off. Four hours later 788 psi. Fourteen hours later 55 psi. Should the HPFP maintain high pressure side fuel pressure after key off?
High pressure will climb up to around 800psi KOEO after running and getting warm...that is normal because the fuel is boiling in the rail. After awhile the pressure will bleed down, that is normal. Your KOEO checks on low side are the same as always, make sure she is coming up to spec and maintains, pressure will also bleed down after awhile. Closely monitor the FRP Sensor actual vs desired at idle, under load, and back down to idle again, if pressures don't match relatively closely you likely have a high pressure pump issue (+/- 30 psi is excessive). Listen to high pump for unusually abnormal clattering and squeak type noises once you get engine good and hot...also evidence that it's a mechanical problem with the pump. Monitor STFT and LTFT closely as well, as they will give you clues when idling and under load. Lean issues and intermittently rich conditions after fuel cutoffs are indicators that you have a high side solenoid regulation issue and these can be tricky to diagnose. Hopefully this helps 🙏. 10A approximately on the solenoid 😉
It is confusing. I'm just a DIY guy who's trying to keep up with you all and I find it almost impossible. Then add things like the cost of scanners and scopes and were a dying breed. But with videos on TH-cam like yours, we have a chance. Thanks.
Thanks Wyatt, I was debating on uploading this cause I made so many mistakes in what my brain was trying to get across, but I think it is helpful for others to see that hell, even guys in the field scratch our damn heads at times. I appreciate your support.
Follow up as of 2 March 2019, the part 2 video is not posted, because this customer ended up doing the repair themselves to save $$$. The high pressure pump was in fact the issue and customer stated that truck ran just fine and no DTC's returned after the replacement...hopefully this was helpful.
As always, thanks for watching and please let me know if you have anything to add to this video in the comments section below.
Thanks for putting this video up. We can all learn together.
You are welcome 😊
Hi Pauly! 🫡
I know it's been years since you made this extremely knowledgeable and helpful video, and I'm no mechanic for sure 😁...
If I may ask sir...
My 2012 Ford F-150 Lariat 3.5L V6 EB suddenly wouldn't start, it would crank and act extremely sluggish, no start...
I got a code of "P00C6 permanent" reading from the Walmart brand OBD reader...
Backstory: I had an issue where as my Ford was dying sluggish low power as I was driving...
Was told the number 6 and 5 spark plugs was misfiring...
So I took my Ford to the local Ford dealership and had the spark plugs and ignition coils replaced, and all the wire connectors shells pins removed and new connectors shells put on (had alot of broken connectors going to the ignition coils) all done just 1 week before this new issue happened...
Note: The truck ran just fine after the repairs?
Could the sensor become loose?
Or is it the same issue you had in this video?
Or something else completely?
My wife thinks maybe possibly the local Ford dealership did something wrong or damaged something while doing the repairs?
Your thoughts and feedback bro of what's going on?
God Bless and
Thank you for your time and support with this video.
447th Signal
Fort Gordon, Georgia.
Thanks for the kind words, I'm gonna have to say unless you got injectors that are leaking down you probably have a high pump issue, but it's also possible that you don't have enough flow coming from that low side pump. Best thing to do is to do a low side pressure check with a gauge and get a scan tool data pid up for the high side pressure pid.
Based on the DTC set and the symptoms I'm gonna say I would lean towards a high pressure fuel pump.
@@PaulysAuto
Thanks for the reply bro!
Thanks for the vid I have one in the bay with misfires and no codes. This helped.
That's good to hear, thank you for watching. So out of curiosity, did you find a failed pump to be the cause of this issue then?
Any advice on releasing the high pressure before cracking the line? Or just let it sit for an extended period before doing so, that way the pressure will dissipate?
I was just going to say at 7:00 that HP fuel pump does not sound right at all.
You mention use common sense cause of the pressure in it ? How can i remove it and be safe ? I need to change my valve cover gasket and need to remove the high pressure pump on it. ?
crack her open and cover it with a couple shop rags so it doesn't spray all over or get you in the face...pressure will bleed off...I'm talking about using common sense...think about cracking a Soda open after you shook it up.
@@PaulysAuto got it. Thanks !
i have a 2019 F-150 with the V8 and it shut down on me on the way home with my kids in it too. only 50k miles on it. Service guy said the fuel pump wasnt getting enough power so the wiring was bad. Enging was craking over but would not start. should hear back from Ford tomorrow. it should be covered under Powertrain warranty. My point is for a newer truck with 50k miles this should not be happening. im planning on selling it for something else once its fixed. first Ford ive ever had and the last. your right Jason, there beautiful trucks they shouldnt be having these issues
My apologies for the late reply, what did you end up finding out?
Yes welcome to the new world doesn't matter what truck you buy you'll be fixing something on it my friend
Where is the fuel rail low pressure sensor on a 2013 f150 3.5 eb at?
Before the high side fuel pump in the feed line.
Cool diag man !! Quick tip for all GDI engines I've ever seen which is Ford GM, an Hyundai only but they are all the same is near as I can tell. Any way I have seen a high pressure pump suck from the tank. The in tank pump was completely dead open circuit. The high pressure pump was actually sucking around 60-80 psi an the car actually ran decent. So I like to check the low side pressure key on engine off so that the high pressure pump isn't working if that makes sense. Or I throw an amp clamp around the low pressure pump driver module output to the pump when it's running. Any way just another variable. You may already know this.
These are great suggestions, I'm definitely going to be doing this in my future videos. Never thought about a high pressure pump pulling fuel directly from the tank like that with a shorted low side pump...great point!
Thanks for sharing this with everyone, including myself Caleb! Also, thanks for subscribing, appreciate your support, and feedback!
🤦♂️ Sucking 60 to 80 psi that is not posible, in any case the injection pump can create suction vacuum on the low pressure side.
Just seen this video and it may help me out, maybe you’ll see my question.
So I went to test the low side fuel pressure on my grandfathers 2014 3.5 eco boost very similar to how you’re plumbed in as well with a mechanical gauge. Now because it’s not running very well occasionally and he said it’s getting low fuel rail pressure codes. Now when I test it key on engine off it holds around 50 psi but if you start the truck up it starts bouncing like crazy from 0-50 psi roughly and I’ve never seen anything like it, I’ve used the gauge before so I don’t believe it’s the gauge. I’m just wondering if it’s the pump or the fpdm if these have one and what you think of that? Thanks!
Some fluttering is considered normal and it's from the HP Pump. I'd have to check the VIN to examine the Fuel System to find out if it has a FPDCM...I believe almost all these Fords do.
@@PaulysAuto Thanks! I didn’t expect a reply so quick, I’d have to take a video for you to really see what I mean and I would understand some fluttering as well but no it isn’t like that, as soon as you fire it up the gauge starts freaking out going from 0 back to about 50 back and forth so fast you can’t tell what it is going to exactly and I thought it would wreck the gauge with how fast it was going, almost in sync with the rpm or the hpfp so we shut it down.
I feel like it is an issue with the fuel supply from seeing what the gauge did but wondering if it does have an fpdm and if it could cause that or if the pump in the tank is more likely possibly.
Thanks again it was the strangest thing, I’ll see if I can get a video of it.
@@jeremycassell7627 sounds good interesting to see what you come up with
Very interested to see what your outcome is/ was?
Where is the power steering fluid container?
Electric power steering
Did you get injector codes
'13 F150 EB. Should the high pressure side maintain fuel pressure at key off only? Started experiencing a long extended start only on cold starts. No codes. Data logging truck noticed the longer the truck sits after last start the high pressure side pressure falls off. At idle logged 800-900 psi. Key off. Four hours later 788 psi. Fourteen hours later 55 psi. Should the HPFP maintain high pressure side fuel pressure after key off?
High pressure will climb up to around 800psi KOEO after running and getting warm...that is normal because the fuel is boiling in the rail.
After awhile the pressure will bleed down, that is normal.
Your KOEO checks on low side are the same as always, make sure she is coming up to spec and maintains, pressure will also bleed down after awhile.
Closely monitor the FRP Sensor actual vs desired at idle, under load, and back down to idle again, if pressures don't match relatively closely you likely have a high pressure pump issue (+/- 30 psi is excessive).
Listen to high pump for unusually abnormal clattering and squeak type noises once you get engine good and hot...also evidence that it's a mechanical problem with the pump.
Monitor STFT and LTFT closely as well, as they will give you clues when idling and under load. Lean issues and intermittently rich conditions after fuel cutoffs are indicators that you have a high side solenoid regulation issue and these can be tricky to diagnose.
Hopefully this helps 🙏.
10A approximately on the solenoid 😉
It is confusing. I'm just a DIY guy who's trying to keep up with you all and I find it almost impossible. Then add things like the cost of scanners and scopes and were a dying breed. But with videos on TH-cam like yours, we have a chance. Thanks.
Thanks Wyatt, I was debating on uploading this cause I made so many mistakes in what my brain was trying to get across, but I think it is helpful for others to see that hell, even guys in the field scratch our damn heads at times. I appreciate your support.