My vw golf is in garage and was making this noise really bad and getting worse, what's weird is it would go away some days and be there for few days and now garage saying dry cv boot but will definitely ask them to check the cv axels on mines this makes so much sense, many thanks for this thumbs up from me
Nice video. I wish you would have showed the right side though because it's much farther in there. Is any special disassembly required to access the one on the right?
The shop manual explicitly says NOT to remove the bolt with the car's weight on the wheel, as this can ruin the wheel bearing. It also says not to use an impact tool on that bolt.
Great video👌 I just replaced wheel bearings on my vw Tiguan 5N, after seeing this video, I notice that its not necessary to disassemble the brake caliper to do this job.
I am about to change my cv axle too on an audi a3. The kit includes a tube of grease too for the inner cv boot. I didn't see you applying any grease in your video.
Finally a video showing my R! Having the CV done this week @ 220km. Does anyone else have experience with it having evap leak.? It hunts at idle and VW dealer told me don't worry about it...wtf... maybe dirty MAF sensor or other?? #golfr #mk6
I just did mine on my 2002 Passat, so easy, didnt have to remove anything. Took the lug nut off, the 6 m10 triple squares and turn the wheel to slide it out, I lied I had to remove a shield to have room to move axle but that was 3 6mm allens.
Curious, when your cv joint was bad, did you notice binding during, or close to,,full lock turns? I have a new to me 2013 R and maneuvering in parking lots or anywhere requiring tight turns is miserable. In comparison, my old A4 Quattro never had this issue, nor does my current DD (2015 Golf TDI). The binding only occurs between 75-100% lock, to the point that the tires don’t seem to want to spin, and chirp on the asphalt. 😰
I only experienced the clicking however if it was bad enough I suppose the wheels could chirp. Almost sounds like a diff problem but at low speeds the rear wheels shouldn’t be engaged at all…
What was it on the end? I've got a CC with same symptoms. I didn't inspect it yet, but I assume it'll be a bad cv joint as this makes the most sense for me.
I have a 2012 Jetta 2.5 MT. I've had to replace the axle a couple times. Not sure if it's just the crappy Advanced Auto parts. If this one goes again, I'll get the one you posted. Thanks for the great video. I find it easier to separate from the tie-rod to swing the hub out.
When I turn my 2011 tdi to the right. Usually going slow. If clicks once. Only when I go Right. Would that need the passenger vc joint replaced or driver ? Md if I bring a replacement to a shop. How long should it take them like an hour ?
Def wrong way to remove axle bolt, that hubs probably broken internally now, with weight of vehicle on axle it's a 90° turn only, then remove bolt fully only when weight of car is off the ground.
The difference in Torque speck is huge between the hex bolt and 12 point bolt on the axle - 200N/m +180 degree vs 70N/m + 90 degree . Anybody know why ? My guess is different hardness of those bolts(12 point supersedes the hex) , but still -its huge.
@@ChutneyGames No those are both axle bolts. I did some searches and found the 12 point one comes in two different forms - one with flat surface and one with ribs . The smaller torque is on the one with ribs.
You shouldn’t use a breaker bar with the wheel on the ground. This can damage your lower ball joint. Instead do it while someone holds the break or use an impact
Don't take the axle bolt out unless the car is off the ground, what do you think is giving the wheel bearing preload? :)
If your that deep in... why not replace bearing group while your there?
My vw golf is in garage and was making this noise really bad and getting worse, what's weird is it would go away some days and be there for few days and now garage saying dry cv boot but will definitely ask them to check the cv axels on mines this makes so much sense, many thanks for this thumbs up from me
Nice video. I wish you would have showed the right side though because it's much farther in there. Is any special disassembly required to access the one on the right?
wish I had a lift. That makes things so much easier.
The shop manual explicitly says NOT to remove the bolt with the car's weight on the wheel, as this can ruin the wheel bearing. It also says not to use an impact tool on that bolt.
Correct
Great video👌
I just replaced wheel bearings on my vw Tiguan 5N, after seeing this video, I notice that its not necessary to disassemble the brake caliper to do this job.
I am about to change my cv axle too on an audi a3. The kit includes a tube of grease too for the inner cv boot. I didn't see you applying any grease in your video.
Thanks for the simple short video. So many how to videos go on entirely too long!
Finally a video showing my R! Having the CV done this week @ 220km. Does anyone else have experience with it having evap leak.? It hunts at idle and VW dealer told me don't worry about it...wtf... maybe dirty MAF sensor or other?? #golfr #mk6
Great work will no doubt have to do this at some stage
The link in description doesn't show torque specs. Only parts sales
Love seeing you wrench on the R. Great work! Cheers
I just did mine on my 2002 Passat, so easy, didnt have to remove anything. Took the lug nut off, the 6 m10 triple squares and turn the wheel to slide it out, I lied I had to remove a shield to have room to move axle but that was 3 6mm allens.
did u need to do a car alignment after the job?
No
Curious on the cv axle, I read the reviews on it, and they are terrible. How’s the car driving? Anything positive? Negative?
Why are my axle bolts so hard to put on but it was simple for you? both sides are really hard to put on
Way less torque required on the hex type
Curious, when your cv joint was bad, did you notice binding during, or close to,,full lock turns? I have a new to me 2013 R and maneuvering in parking lots or anywhere requiring tight turns is miserable. In comparison, my old A4 Quattro never had this issue, nor does my current DD (2015 Golf TDI).
The binding only occurs between 75-100% lock, to the point that the tires don’t seem to want to spin, and chirp on the asphalt. 😰
I only experienced the clicking however if it was bad enough I suppose the wheels could chirp. Almost sounds like a diff problem but at low speeds the rear wheels shouldn’t be engaged at all…
What was it on the end? I've got a CC with same symptoms. I didn't inspect it yet, but I assume it'll be a bad cv joint as this makes the most sense for me.
I have a 2012 Jetta 2.5 MT. I've had to replace the axle a couple times. Not sure if it's just the crappy Advanced Auto parts. If this one goes again, I'll get the one you posted. Thanks for the great video. I find it easier to separate from the tie-rod to swing the hub out.
Are these the same torque specs for a 2013 golf TDI?
When I turn my 2011 tdi to the right. Usually going slow. If clicks once. Only when I go Right. Would that need the passenger vc joint replaced or driver ? Md if I bring a replacement to a shop. How long should it take them like an hour ?
Are you supposed to use any grease of any kind for installation?
go ahead and buy milwaukee m18 1/2”. won’t need the breaker bar for the axle nut :)
Really? It would break it loose?
@@CDdogg303 yup 99.9% of the time
@@williamhendrix3253 Well, looks like I need to get another tool haha, I appreciate the heads up 👍👍
What's your reference code a ECS tuning?
How many Nm /ft∙lb you tighten the nuts
We have the same mags and I've never seen any other so far :)
Def wrong way to remove axle bolt, that hubs probably broken internally now, with weight of vehicle on axle it's a 90° turn only, then remove bolt fully only when weight of car is off the ground.
You didn't tell us the lower control arm bolt specs
Average cost ?
Will this work for a 2018 Volkswagen passat se
Love all the videos of the golf r
Thanks!!!
Rg
Dont mess with the control arm bolts at all just the swaybar link and outer tierod thats all tou have to take off to get out the axle
Yeah but then you’re cutting off that sway bar link, Depending on the condition of it. At the end of the day you need an alignment
what symptoms do you have ?
What is the link where you bought your axle?
Excellent
What kind of breaker bar did you use
Rawws 223 harbor freight with some electrical conduit slipped over the handle.
Modern Engineer is it a 1/2 or 3/4
The difference in Torque speck is huge between the hex bolt and 12 point bolt on the axle - 200N/m +180 degree vs 70N/m + 90 degree . Anybody know why ? My guess is different hardness of those bolts(12 point supersedes the hex) , but still -its huge.
They are all stretch bolts it's just the bolt on the axle is so much bigger it takes more to stretch
@@ChutneyGames No those are both axle bolts. I did some searches and found the 12 point one comes in two different forms - one with flat surface and one with ribs . The smaller torque is on the one with ribs.
200N/m +180 is insane. Feels like it will snap every time
Your guess is correct. The older hex bolts use a different type of steel to the newer 12 point bolts.
Breaker bar with pipe much less chance of breaking or damaging rachet teeth.
You shouldn’t use a breaker bar with the wheel on the ground. This can damage your lower ball joint. Instead do it while someone holds the break or use an impact
Thanks for the advise!
Done about 9 things wrong but good job I guess
Its not impact driver. Impact wrench…..
3 collared nuts holding lower control arm to the ball joint MUST NOT be reused, it is dangerous to reuse these.