Couldn't figure out what was wrong with my gen welder and knew it had something to do with this little part. Such a simple video but so damn usefull! Thanks man!
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF.... "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!! Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!! For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!! After testing the gen with the help of a gasoline container, a piece of hose and 12v battery, I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, then it was ready to be installed at my RV. Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for 120v electricity but not before flipping the AC circuit switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to be able to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!! I'm happy because everything works now including the refrigerator for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared. If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!
AMC used that four-post solenoid in the 60s and 70s. My '69 AMX has one. There is an S terminal on the left facing straight out that energizes the solenoid and an I terminal that goes to the ignition coil. It bypasses the ballast resistor during cranking and provides 12 volts to the ignition coil during cranking.
Third type that is common on CCK & NH models, looks like the "Ford" style but..... the coil is tied into small lugs, with no chassis ground and no ties to the bigger lugs. Reason they use the single small lug you have and the CCK/NH style is the way start stop switch is wired. The "stop" grounds the ign just like a small lawnmower or snowblower. Since "ground" is already in the switch, it's easier to have the switch be used for the ground side of the solenoid coil.
Thank you!! I’m attempting to wire the one on the left (4 prong) because that’s what we in there prior, that’s what I took out.... would you use the same one and wore it out you found it? (I’m not getting any charge to the generator now. Not even turning over, no clicking, nothing.) Or would you switch over and use the one on the right? Would love to hear your thoughts and I’m working on this tomorrow with an Onan 4000 Emerald Plus. Thank you in advance, truly!
That test won't work if the coil is shot, which is the most common reason for the solenoid not working. Better to test it by finding out if the small connector on the front goes to 12v when you hit start, or goes to ground when you hit start.
Thanks for the video! I have a dual post solenoid on my generator, it sounds and looks like it's working... But no joy. In a pinch, is there a car equivalent solenoid that would work in it's place? I heard you reference it as a ford style solenoid... your thoughts? Again, thanks for the instruction... I'm going to check the grounding and make sure I have a clean ground, when I removed it to look at it, I think it was corroded.. I'm getting 12 volts when metered.. But no joy. when I bypass the solenoid, it starts... how can I get both 12 volts through it, but no start? corrosion prohibiting full amperage maybe?
@@SuperRobkar Yeah, I saw her post. I also looked up the model number she referenced. She referenced a three post solenoid, while mine is a four post model. Thanks for taking the time to get back to me!
I had a similar problem, no solenoid click when I pressed start (Onan quiet) I replaced it with a 4-post solenoid from Home Depot and when I pressed start the inside inside small wire immediately went up in smoke! But then the generator started. The circuit had 12 volts on both leads but this was an error on the coach wiring. The inside post was connected to ground and that smoked the wire. I left it that way.
@@leeklemetti1887sounds like you got the old ford style that sends power to the 2nd small lug (ignition) Onan sometimes require a a ground signal there from the control board… possibly frying the board
A negative 12 volts... Or did you mean "ground"? The reason for this bizarre wiring setup is the fact that on Onan 4.0 BFG models, like mine, there is NO STARTER on these, it uses the armature of the generator part of it as a starter......D'ohhhhhhhhh
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Couldn't figure out what was wrong with my gen welder and knew it had something to do with this little part. Such a simple video but so damn usefull! Thanks man!
Sometimes its the simple things! Glad it helped you.
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF....
"I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR"
It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person.
I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!!
Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!!
For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel).
Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed.
Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!!
After testing the gen with the help of a gasoline container, a piece of hose and 12v battery, I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, then it was ready to be installed at my RV.
Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for 120v electricity but not before flipping the AC circuit switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to be able to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!!
I'm happy because everything works now including the refrigerator for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared.
If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!
thank you for making ths process clear. one of the best I've seen
AMC used that four-post solenoid in the 60s and 70s. My '69 AMX has one. There is an S terminal on the left facing straight out that energizes the solenoid and an I terminal that goes to the ignition coil. It bypasses the ballast resistor during cranking and provides 12 volts to the ignition coil during cranking.
Good to know. Thanks
Third type that is common on CCK & NH models, looks like the "Ford" style but..... the coil is tied into small lugs, with no chassis ground and no ties to the bigger lugs. Reason they use the single small lug you have and the CCK/NH style is the way start stop switch is wired. The "stop" grounds the ign just like a small lawnmower or snowblower. Since "ground" is already in the switch, it's easier to have the switch be used for the ground side of the solenoid coil.
If I understood you done good.
Thank you!! I’m attempting to wire the one on the left (4 prong) because that’s what we in there prior, that’s what I took out.... would you use the same one and wore it out you found it? (I’m not getting any charge to the generator now. Not even turning over, no clicking, nothing.) Or would you switch over and use the one on the right?
Would love to hear your thoughts and I’m working on this tomorrow with an Onan 4000 Emerald Plus.
Thank you in advance, truly!
Good job men.
You just saved me on my three terminal
That test won't work if the coil is shot, which is the most common reason for the solenoid not working. Better to test it by finding out if the small connector on the front goes to 12v when you hit start, or goes to ground when you hit start.
You would have to also insulate the screws holding the solenoid.
Thanks for the video! I have a dual post solenoid on my generator, it sounds and looks like it's working... But no joy. In a pinch, is there a car equivalent solenoid that would work in it's place? I heard you reference it as a ford style solenoid... your thoughts? Again, thanks for the instruction... I'm going to check the grounding and make sure I have a clean ground, when I removed it to look at it, I think it was corroded.. I'm getting 12 volts when metered.. But no joy. when I bypass the solenoid, it starts... how can I get both 12 volts through it, but no start? corrosion prohibiting full amperage maybe?
Steven Miller look down a few posts by Nicole
@@SuperRobkar Yeah, I saw her post. I also looked up the model number she referenced. She referenced a three post solenoid, while mine is a four post model. Thanks for taking the time to get back to me!
I had a similar problem, no solenoid click when I pressed start (Onan quiet) I replaced it with a 4-post solenoid from Home Depot and when I pressed start the inside inside small wire immediately went up in smoke! But then the generator started. The circuit had 12 volts on both leads but this was an error on the coach wiring. The inside post was connected to ground and that smoked the wire. I left it that way.
@@leeklemetti1887sounds like you got the old ford style that sends power to the 2nd small lug (ignition) Onan sometimes require a a ground signal there from the control board… possibly frying the board
A negative 12 volts... Or did you mean "ground"? The reason for this bizarre wiring setup is the fact that on Onan 4.0 BFG models, like mine, there is NO STARTER on these, it uses the armature of the generator part of it as a starter......D'ohhhhhhhhh
What size star bit fits it to remove it from the frame
My 4.0 CCK has a four post.
internally grounded 3 post from autozone ss922 worked on my 6.5nh
Nicole Garcia what was the make and model of the car it was supposed to go on, did you get from autozone
Where is the solenoid on a 7500 watt diesel gen onan
In an absolute emergency you could just jump it to get your generator running instead of taking all the time to Frankenstein it.
touch each positive of selinoid together, a pair of pliers or 2 screw drivers and you bypass it.
Hey any luck on yours ? im just getting a click no starter turn either
Where are the located, my gen just clicks fast when I try to start it, is it the starter or solenoid
Depends on your model
4 post solenoid it's a continuous is to charge the house battery from your alternator when the vehicle is running
Listen I hav a onan with neither one of those
Ok, now I'm even more lost.
Dont understand...technique lenguage.
Just say where power go and ground goes easy piece..
F