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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- Describes how to protect your home against an EMP. Our recommended approach is to: 1) install a high-current surge protection device, 2) install High-saturation EMP Ferrites in breaker panel, 3) install small broadband ferrites on power cords of sensitive electronics. Note that very sensitive items that are not plugged in can also be stored in EMP bags.
See disasterprepar... for ferrites and EMP bags. The surge protection device that we recommend is the Siemens FS140, available at Amazon for under $200.
The content of this video was posted previously as part of a longer video. Folks asked that I post a shorter version only discussing the preparations.
Disclaimer: Our videos have been made available for informational, entertainment, and educational purposes only. Content should NOT be considered professional advice, engineering or otherwise. Neither Disasterpreparer LLC nor its member, Dr. Arthur Bradley, make any representation with respect to accuracy, applicability, or completeness of the content. Further, our videos are NOT intended to be a substitute for professional advice from an engineer, electrician, or any other professional. Disasterpreparer LLC and its member, Dr. Arthur Bradley, disclaim any and all liability to any party for any direct, indirect, implied, punitive, special, incidental, or other consequential damages arising directly or indirect, implied, punitive, special, incidental, or other consequential damages arising directly or indirectly from any use of video content, which is provided as is, and without warranties.
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with over 20 years of MIL461 EMI design/fabrication/testing of Aerospace & Defense systems at NASA's MSFC, DoD RSA, and NTS (aka Wyle)... I'm hear to tell ya that the EMPDOCTOR is spot on !!!
Law enforcement said they could not stop criminals targetting me with electronic warfare. They are using state tools, presumably dna specific. The likely HP microwave has been used to stop my heart momentarily, destroy part of my colon that had to be surgically removed, cause mental effects, and targeting the vascular system in my legs that will eventually cause a lethal stroke or heart attack with prior risk need of amputation. Any idea how I can defend agaunst this?
Hi, I'm a high school dropout.
*here
I know you both are right, but I was looking at EMP SHIELD Made in USA Kansas. With your knowledge can Doc. And you review.
@@larryh657 that's the one you want 👍not sure about this guy
How to you spell 'here '
Really good presentation. As a physicist who's worked professionally on high voltage/pulse power design and qualification for decades, this is right on target.
As someone with an engineering mindset, I kinda really do need to understand how something as fundamental as a Ferrite could be "custom modified" to not saturate like every other product on the market would. Don't get me wrong, I respect the research shared here on the channel (which seems legit) and I'd be happy to buy Ferrites from your website, but I need to know there's more to these "customizations" than just slapping a sticker on it or whatnot. Or at least share a video demonstrating the comparative effectiveness of these modified Ferrites for this purpose.
you gotta admit though, the sticker is legit
If you could do a video on how to protect an outdoor well pump (residential) and an outdoor whole house generator (or gas powered portable generator) THAT WOULD BE AWESOME!!!
I watched a video yesterday on the "Engineer775" yt channel titled "Sol-Ark EMP Hardened Solar Generator" (can't remember if it was a recent video, or from a few years ago).
....."Sol-Ark" (sorry for the typo)
You need to get a back-up hand pump installed if your well is not too deep. On how to protect an outdoor whole house generator? All I can think of is to build a Faraday cage around it.
@@suzannefronzaglio2427 Sorry took so long to see this but I just want to let you know that if you bring your mouse --->
just to the right of this little arrow thing next to your post then you will see the 3 dots and if you left click those dots and the click edit you can change what you typed, ie typos or grumpy earl;y morning comments, etc....
@@CRSolarice thank you, I did actually know that. What was happening is that for the last few months, I would try open the edit option.... and it wouldn't open. I've had issues like this before. Not sure if it's TH-cam (aka "ScrewTube"), or my phone. But I think it's ScrewTube. I've had other issues with the comments section too, that come and go. It just started allowing me to edit any mistakes in the last week. Bizarre.
As an electrician, this was very well explained. That diagram at 10:04 is supper legit, love how you had both lines black and green for ground/neutral. I learned a lot today that I didn't know or I didn't know that I knew it...
supper legit?
If an EMP goes off wont the neutral and ground lines also become charged. Therefore it wouldn't matter if you turned your main breaker off. And those ferrites aren't going to slow down the voltage from an EMP, maybe a slight surge but not that..
@@_--Reaper--_ It tastes good! lol
You must not be a real electrician as there are a few things wrong with the drawing.
@@trustme7731 So, enlighten us... oh wise one with you VAST stores of knowledge. Get bent, so the dude is not drawing to scale. Stop eating your crayons and draw you own diagrams.
I my 30+ years experience in lightning ally ! I found common point grounding to be vastly more beneficial, than even the best of surge protection.
Harmful surges would come on the power wires, not the ground. So, grounding offers no protection.
I have had 2 experiences with lightning. The first was one that damaged a tractor trailer rig I was driving. I was on a steel bridge on I-12, I felt it through my hands and feet, it exhausted me. My truck suffered over 50K in damage from the strike and was totaled. It still ran, but all my wires were blown out, lights, radios, everything except the ECM. My next experience was in my home. Lightning struck in my back yard during a storm. Blew up the control unit on my new freezer and friend the UPS in the computer room, some other damage, like blown out lights, and minor stuff. The computer was saved, but the UPS was blacked and HOT to the touch. We had to get a new cord for the comp. This felt as bad as the day I backed into a "weed killer" electric fence charger. We saved a 300.00 computer and ruined a 600.00 freezer ... not my best day, but no one was hurt. The ground was black where the lightning hit, and there was a hole in the trailer where one of the lightning bolts hit me on the bridge.
Wow
Yeah
Zeus, is that you?
We had lightning hit twice on our home in Phx. Talk about loud!!! Wow! Fried my phone and computer on that side of the house!
@@scrapykat3028 How long did it take you to get good UPS on critical equipment?
My uncle in Florida had a BIG surge when the local power company crossed the wires from the HT lines and burned up every outlet, switch and appliance in the condominium. So surge protection is a good idea. My mom lost her electric range from a lightning strike to the power lines close to the house!
Back in the 80s my father worked nuclear hardening for a few years. He worked on Kirtland where they put the aircraft, and about everything else on a giant wooden platform for testing. He passed away a few years ago. I sure miss him, not to mention, I would love to have some of his knowledge a simple phone call away again.
Yes, I believe that was the Trestle. I have a photograph in my EMP book -- an engineering marvel to be sure!
Losing a dad with all that knowledge is tough for so many reasons.
WE GOT THE RESULTS - triple shielded grounded cabling , plus, B-52'S
A short vid on what is coupling (like the difference between a ham's HF antenna and a cop.s UHF antenna) would be helpful
I have just started to prepare for SHTF events. After considering basic survival solutions, EMP's and solar flares were obvious high concerns. So you can imagine my delight and gratitude at finding this video and your site, many thanks. We will be looking to purchase your EMP Ferrites and the Sieman's SPD in the near future. Not at all surprised the SPD is significantly more expensive in the UK. Next up is protecting the car and the Shimano Di2 on my bicycle.
For car protection, you might check out this video: th-cam.com/video/J8_01u3vp-M/w-d-xo.html. I also have a couple of videos that that discuss the use of conductive cloth as a cover - but it's quite expensive.
Very surprised that this video doesn't have millions of views after recent events.
THANK-YOU SIR, GREAT ADVICE!
Amen
Retired, Veteran
I used to unplug many (all?) electronic devices before forecasted lighting storms to guard against cost and time of replacement. It's very laborious to re-setup operation (clocks, programming, etc...), but I think it is a zero-cost method. It also makes one feel like an obsessed worry wart, but if it were successful, things could be back online (or available for) without damage, avoiding cost/time. I currently keep many rarely-used equipment unplugged and now am anticipating getting an EMP bag / making a cage (metal box, etc...) for storage of smaller devices in case of an event.
Good video.
ditto
This stuff is a bit over my head, but it is really neat that you respond to so many.
Thanks Chris. I do my best.
@@disasterprepper What can I do to protect myself from an EMP if I have a pacemaker?
Can I turn my house into a Faraday cage? Is a car a Faraday cage if I am on the road? Thanks.
@@Horse237 The good news is that when I analyzed a Medtronic's pacemaker's specs, it looked like it would easily survive an EMP. That was just one model, so take that accordingly. As for protecting yourself, you could wear a conductive cloth shirt. You can find them online if you search EMF blocking clothing. Cars are not very good at shielding RF energy.
@@disasterprepper Thanks. Mine is from Boston Scientific. I have a high regard for their products.
You might want to consider lightning rods. We have entered a Grand Solar Minimum much like the Maunder Minimum. We have had an increase in electrical storms. I have seen videos of farmers in Europe losing as many as 50 sheep at a time from lightning strikes. The average house has a 1 in 200 chance of being struck by lightning in any given year.
@@Horse237 I absolutely agree that a lightning rod is a good preparation for areas affected by lightning. It doesn't really help against an EMP, but it can shunt away lightning energy.
Thank you Dr. Bradley. Your presentation was thorough and easy to understand.
So concise and simple yet effective illustrations, Thanks.
It’s a nice presentation, and for this type of event, what he outlined would work well.
Wow glad I found this video, the presentation is to the point and he provides some practical solutions.
Just found your page. Building a new home and want to make sure it's protected from EMP and CME events. Your presentation was awesome. Already have a whole house surge protector in my current house, but will leave it there when my new house is built. Flagged the Siemens surge protector you suggested, will get it for the new house. Became a subscriber today.
Welcome aboard!
Great info. Thank you; how ever is overwhelming to the proverbial little old senior. Do watch solar flares etc (some great sights to follow) and an certain some destructive in-comings are on the horizon but am cautious about more prepped-kind-stuff. You have provided some excellent food for thought, and that is a good thing.👏🏻👏🏻 Again thank you.
Thank you Dr. Arthur Bradley you are what I have been searching for, and not just an amateur talking without any former training ,or experience.
You’re a genius and you explain it all so well, thank you!
As an engineer, I become very skeptical whenever someone gives a "hand waving" explanation. I like, and can follow, your explanations, except when it comes to your "specially modified high saturation" ferrites. What has been done to modify these ferrites to make them suitable for a high current application?
I think the same, probably the modification is an air gap properly calculated?
Or magnetic shunt, like microwave oven trasformer.
Hi Doug, a very small gap is introduced in the ferrous loop. It has to be pretty precise (to within a mil) to get the desired effect. I talk about this in another video. Definitely nothing magical, just well-known principles being applied.
Stellar presentation! Thanks for posting.
My 'star' gets me to the best 👌 (1st timer).
Dr. Bradley, you're an excellent stellar of knowledge. An effective, gr8 teacher as well.
I have used a device similar to the unit in the silver box that was made by Polyphaser some years back. It was designed to absorb these emp surges however it was dropped from their lineup. It was a plug in device that one would use to feed power to radio transmitters. The issue is they need to be directly wired into the mains of the distribution panel and the load needs to plug into it and the load to be effectively protected it should be placed in close proximity to the distribution panel. It was somewhat hit or miss when used at an outlet far from the distribution panel.
Now living in the EU it would be nice to find a similar device but for 220 volt per leg and 440 volts across the legs on homes wired for three phase ( yes there is three phase available to homes in certain countries).
I am writing this in May of 2024 after an entire week of solar flares. Researching how to protect my assets in my home brought me to your channel and I am so glad that I found it. My gut feeling is that, with the increase of solar activity forecasted to increase until 2030, I am going to be doing a lot more research and hardening my home for a CME. Thanks!
May 2024 solar activity was similar in scope as the Carrington Event.
Thankfully our modern world is still here. It’s possible the solar flare component of this danger has been slightly overestimated.
A ferrite core requires a gap created to allow for higher flux densities (higher currents) extending the B-H curve before saturation.
Soo...the "custom modification" of that clamp-on ferrite might be nothing more than a piece of insulating tape on the mating surfaces of the ferrite, where the surfaces meet when it's clamped on and the toroidal shape is recreated? ;) ATB de DJWY
To those of us that thought the excuse for not explaining the intricacies of how to modify ferrite cores to keep from saturation at normal household loads are too complicated is a non issue, I say thanks. I would imagine the neutral and or ground shouldn't need any modification because if it does you should fix your electrical problems first, i.e. balance out your loads to null current on the third wire of the "Edison" three wire system.
@@19ghost73 oh GAWD insulating tape will work, but looking at the shiny ferrite surface in the video, its no mystery they actually use the 'recommended method' of machining the ferrite halves by grinding in order to create the famous 'air gap' mentioned all over academic literature.
whereas every sane manufacturer uses plastic for the gap from day one LOL
The risk isn't just in the power lines because the emp transmits through the air, SO.... your devices can fry on their own. In which case you'll need a Faraday shield aka "cage", between your electronics and the emp....
Yes, there is definitely a risk to standalone electronics. I talk about this in various videos. But... the greatest risk is that to the grid and things attached to the grid. That's why we do so much to try to protect from the huge conducted pulse that will be introduced on the power lines.
One suggestion on your drawing, your illustration of the circuit breaker panel shows the SPD wires going to one breaker, which really should show one going it's own breaker to get protection on both legs of the service. If installed as you have it drawn, only one leg would be protected. Otherwise, awesome material
The SPD can wire to either a double-pole breaker (usually a 20 or 30-Amp model) or two adjacent single-pole breakers (one on L1 and one on L2).
This is why he said to have an electrician install for you.
And only the gear downstream from that one breaker is protected , not anything else. Type 1 surge protectors have to be wired to the input to the panel and blow the large fuses at the meter. Everybody gets that wrong. Geez
@@disasterprepper NO, they can't. A 2 pole device is REQUIRED to be on a 2 pole breaker.
Besides, you DO show both the power leads to a single one pole breaker. There are other problems in your diagram too.
@@peggyray You are wrong. Everything connected to the panel is protected because the SPD absorbs the surge thus protecting everything on the bus downstream.
There are no fuses in meters and SPDs don't blow fuses.
Thanks doc!! Very helpful. What about solar systems???
I am not an electrical engineer. Try to understand EMP MOV devices. Great for HEMP, EMP and corona mass discharges, but lighting, the most likely occurrence to the power line. Metal oxide varistors (MOV) dominate the market and are included in the plug in strips. The standard for lightning is a gas discharge tube (GDT). Bourns® combines them in their GMOV. fitting the footprint of a MOV. Littlefuse paper EC 640 discussing Hybrids including GDT and MOV with some IFR capacitor inductive filtering to get the best of both components. Makes more sense to me to have the GDT do the heavy lifting.
GDTs are great for lightning protection. They do degrade over time though.
I’m considering purchasing an “EcoFlow” Battery Generator and would like to know if the ferrite around the cord along with the whole house EMP protector would suffice in protecting that generator. Thank you for the video, I learned more in your video in 15 or 20 minutes than all the searches online.
The Eco Flow is a great device. May I recommend using an. EMP BAG and place the device into the bag. They sell very large bags that should hold the Eco Flow.
First Get a large metal garbage can from like Home Depot or Lowes. Get a roll of metal tape from same type of store.
Tape over anything that pierces the can like screws, Rivets. Then line can and the floor of can with cardboard.
Then get a Large EMP bag and use it like garage bag into can.
Place item in bag and roll and tape shut
Then place lid on can and tape sealed with metal tape to give can a complete seal.
The Ferrites on the cord will give it some protection if plugged in. The better way is to self protect the unit. The home protection is for spikes on the line for things plugged in. You still need to protect from Radiated EMP's that are travelling thru the air.
The format I listed above is NOT hard to do.
Remember: YOU ONLY GET 1 CHANCE TO BEAT AN EMP. THERES NO SECOND CHANCE.
Good luck
Just my 2 cent
Good luck
Or find an old microwave
EMP Shield has one for e1,e2,e3, with max 228k amps for $389-$399 for one applied on the home also have car emp for $389-$449 for one unit.
You just wasted $400 on bogus, kid. Not smart. ;-)
Got a dumb question what happens In a emp to old fashion fuses
Would be nice if there were a service for design of new home electrical system that would take into consideration all needed for a EMP defense and self-sufficient power...
Obviously it's been 3 years but just in case nobody points it out. The US supplies 220v to the house and then splits it into 2×110v@15amps but North American houses do have a 220v supply for use with certain items like the cooker or electric vehicle supply. In Europe typically a home is fed upto 240v @13a from a single phase but three phase is much more commonly available in Europe where it runs at 400v
Cool! And forwarded to fellow peppers. (Am now on your website... which is VERY well organized, I might add.)
Thank you!
Thanks for this presentation!
Your vids are the best for emp prep
Thank you.
Years ago i built a device that could accurately simulate an E1 impulse, it was a spiral line flux compressor driving a fractal antenna and the energy reflected by a small satellite dish. This compresses the 60nS pulse to peak in about 2nS at over a MV per meter intensity. At this potential and frequency it acts very strange. Almost everything sees the pulse as a capacitor or inductor. 😮 To protect stuff from that you need to make a network that blocks the pulse using a HF choke, then shunts it to ground with an ultrafast switch such as a gas tube arrestor while at the same time minimizing capacitive coupling.
I have two of your books and am impressed by the quality of the information in them. If I do these things to protect my home from EMP, there is still the likelihood that the local utility company will be unable to provide power for months or years after their equipment gets fried. Will you be doing a video on how to protect a natural gas-powered whole-house generator from EMP?
Or you can install solar panels. This way even if the power plant not providing power, you will get power from your own solar system.
@@kikimiwa9994 won't the EMP fry your solar panels?
Linda, natural gas is pumped by electric pumps.
@@woodyatwes5018 My understanding is the controller must be protected. Buy a second controller and put it in a metal garbage can. And swap it out when the Chinese or Russians explode an EMP device. Or N Korea, or Pakistan, or...
@@kikimiwa9994 you don't need a whole house system. Calculate your needs and buy enough 100 or 125 watt portable panels do do the job. Store an extra controller in a metal garbage can. I have 300 watt panels, enough for medical equipment and a small refrigerator. Have a year's supply of food, pet food, medicine, first aid, and liquor to barter with. And a gun and ammo, too.
Such a helpful video! Thanks so much for sharing.
Very interesting and worthwhile video.
From work and meshed the entire basement room with the scraps that are grounded to a lightning rod buried inside the ground under my foundation
Why would I want to protect my house from EMPs? If all the tech, computers, cell phones died in my house. Life would be a breath of fresh air.
As long as you have an endless supply of candles (and fire sticks), able to heat water, keep your perishables from spoiling and ice from melting (if you have any), stay warm in the cold, cook over a campfire... then yea ".. a breath of fresh air"
@CJ Wilemon lol... that too. However, I do understand what Mr Williams was inferring/implying to though. I was thinking about this a little while ago and realized just how much we all rely on electricity and tech these days. However, the absence of tech, computers and cell phones (remember the time when nobody wanted to answer the phone?... lol) could be a blessing in disguise... but having no electricity would amount to an entirely different scenario and could prove disastrous. Hate to say it but a very powerful EMP blast, whether natural or unnatural (manmade) or a prolonged power outage could render anyone, any place, helpless if they're not prepared. Me also thinks the power companies have more power (no pun intended) than people realize 😁
Give your life to Jesus Christ. Whether electricity, or no electricity. He still supply your needs
I couldn’t agree more.
No refrigeration, no washer or dryer, no dishwasher or stove, no lights...
Question: the whole house surge protection and special ferrites is a one time one use protection if there is a strong EMP ? or will they survive to protect over and over again .....just in case there’s a repeated EMP or sustained over voltage.
The ferrites won't be damaged by an EMP. The surge protection device might, or might not, be damaged by the E3 portion of the EMP. Ideally, it would trip the breaker(s) before being damaged, but there's no way to be certain.
Surge protectors are a one time device. The Siemens has a normal light and a replace me light. With many, you have no idea if it working or not.
An EMP will charge EVERYTHING that is conductive! The concern is not ONLY the power coming into the home! I'm a mechanical engineer, so admittedly not electrical, but I'm pretty sure that's true, so we can't only worry about the power coming into the home. ANYTHING electronic (especially sensitive circuit boards) will get fried even if it's not plugged in. ...unless it's inside a faraday cage.
A surge from lightning is different. For that kind of situation where there is excessive power coming into the home through the power lines, yes, this video is helpful. But for an EMP, this video is leaving you vulnerable. 🙏🏻
Sorry but I can't stop thinking about those magical ferrites inductor filters, your description sound very mysterious and beyond the comprehension of mere mortal TH-cam viewers.
I tried not to get too deep into the theory in this video, but I do an entire video on the ferrites and how/why they work. Please see th-cam.com/video/_uHuX1LMiyY/w-d-xo.html. It's more in depth, which may be good for some and bad for others. The short answer is that ferrites develop a magnetic flux that resists sudden current changes in the enclosed wire. That acts to dampen transients. The only difference about these high-saturation ferrites and any other is that they have been modified to allow more steady-state current without saturating.
Who would you recommend install such a system? Any instructions to electricians you make available?
Hey Arthur, would you mind doing a video covering the commonly (or suspected) electronic components that would be destroyed in an EMP event? I know ICs, Transistors, and but is there anything else affected? Also do the need a long pathway to be affected or would a standalone transistor be destroyed? I would assume the small leads inside transistors and ICs are the things that overheat and separate, is there more to it than that? I've been getting into electronics very heavily for the last couple of months and I am working my way through digital electronics and slowly moving towards radio electronics. I want to be possibly be able to repair radios (yes, with an extensive component collection I plan on purchasing soon), and or design and build basic radios if possible. I want something more than just Faraday cage assurance and want to help people who didn't plan ahead. Also I don't want t store everything in a Faraday cage, I've got somewhat high end ham radio gear I like to use, I can't afford to buy multiples of those, so I f I can repair them to some degree that would be interesting. I started with Make: Electronics by Charles Platt, his second book, and Practical Electronics for Inventors by Paul Scherz and Simon Monk, not to mention numerous videos and hands on experimenting. If you can suggest any other books, videos, or other sources please let me know. I don't pretend to believe I will be an expert, but I've learn a lot and hope I can do some basics... Self Reliance.
Unfortunately, doing true lab EMP testing requires specialized high-power equipment that I don’t have access to. There are a few labs that can do the type of testing you’re describing, but they are very expensive to use. Mostly, what I do is test the shielding effectiveness of materials, which doesn’t require the high-power equipment. The primary threat to electronics is the destruction of semiconductors (i.e., CMOS and BJT-based devices). How they are connected in a circuit, specifically the length of wiring attached, plays a strong role in how much energy is coupled into the devices.
After watching Suspicious Observers channel for years, I’m so glad I found the channel.
I would like a recommendation from Dr. Bradley on protecting my recently installed 22kW Generac back up system for my home residence. It seems the manufacturer has no clue on protecting the generator fueled by natural gas and the subsequent electrical parts included in the system. The current fed by the electric co-op basically is switched off through a magnetic transfer switch when power is needed by the generator and off again when the electric feed is resupplied by the supply company, our local utility provider. As you can see this is a complex system that has exposer at several different places in the system. Can you help?
A Good Grounding system is essential.
1. You show the neutral and ground as being separate in the panel. They are not. When at the main over current device, the neutral and ground are one. The white and green wires would be connected at the same place, a bonded neutral bus in the panel.
2. You said some panels have 4 wires. This is ONLY when the main over current device is not in the main panel such as if it's outside, on a pole or otherwise away from the panel. The breaker panel would actually be a sub panel but the SPD would be installed at the panel since a main over current device would probably not have branch circuit breaker spaces in it. If a remote main breaker does have breaker spaces in it then the first SPD would be installed there.
3. You didn't mention the cascading effect of SPDs and surge currents. The first SPD, at the meter or main panel, knocks down the surge before the device is destroyed. But the surge CAN continue even though less powerful. This is why additional SPDs need to be used downstream from the first one. Each SPD reduces the surge more and more along with the additional wire length and smaller size wire. All sub panels should also have SPDs. At the point of use, plug in SPD strips should be used. I use SPD receptacles.
QUESTION: We have solar panels on our roof West side (rented). Just last year they put more panels on the East side of the roof which we purchased (for some reason(?)). So in the front yard near the sidewalk & driveway the frame for all the different panels looks like a billboard (ugly metal frame with all those boxes on it). Should I have the electrician or inspector view this video in order to have the correct surge protectors and ferrites we need to order & have him install? Judi
Good stuff!
I had heard that if we had a carrington level event I. Today would Most electronic components would be shorted out sitting on shelves where they sat ?
that line transformer he glosses over would naturally block what he calls E1 surges. Coils have inductive reactance; Xl = 2p x f x l. E1 = very high frequency, making Xl very high.
No talks a transformers/line conditioners. If nothing else they smooth out the utility power.
you could split the lines coming into the house from the meter to split the amperage and use more common ferrites
I suppose this is right, but keep in mind that most clamp on ferrites saturate at just a couple of amps. Plus, I think the cost of doing such a split (assuming it's all done within code) might be rather expensive. I think it would lead to multiple sub-panels too, right?
@@disasterprepper yeah there's a real possibility that this approach wouldn't save you any money, would have to look into it in more depth. Still, it might be worth investigating since it could end up being cheaper too. Either way it's something worth keeping in mind if a purpose-made ferrite isn't available, especially in other countries.
You're right that you'd have to be careful not to let separate lines interfere with each other, whether that involves sub-panels I don't know what the code is. Either way I imagine it would take up some space especially if you're doing it to multiple lines
I have a Tesla Gateway on our house, which physically disconnects from the Grid automatically if surges are detected. Is this good enough. Thanks
It's more, if a car sits not used. It gets damaged circuit boards. Transistors plus.
Thank you for the link, I will check it out.
We have 'very frequent 'power bumps' as the power company calls them on our electrical service. Sometimes as many as 10 in rapid succession. Sometimes the power comes right back - sometimes it doesn't so we've been planning on getting the SPD already because of the unreliable service. We have not been able to get off the grid just yet. I am wondering if this activity will affect either/both the whole house surge protector or the Ferrites and if so - how do we prepare for that or compensate for it?
Thanks for a great instructional video. Glad we didn't the get SPD before I saw this video.
The "power bumps" shouldn't affect the SPD or ferrites. You would still lose service though, since the SPD doesn't guard against brown out. The SPD and ferrite would, however, help to protect from surges that might come in.
From my experience with designing lightning protection for avionics equipment on commercial aircraft, the MOVs (also used in the FS140) do degrade each time the applied voltage goes high enough to turn them on. Their threshold voltage is lowered and their leakage current increases each time, depending on the severity of each surge. After enough of these small surges, or "power bumps" if you like, the leakage current will rise to the point that they begin to overheat and finally permanently short. This is why they must be connected to the power lines through a breaker that will open when this occurs.
@@LaBamba690 That's my experience as well. MOVs degrade over time if stressed. Fortunately, the Siemens FS140 has banks of MOVs which in my opinion offer the most robust design of any SPD I evaluated. Not to say that they can't be damaged, only that they offer a great deal of protection.
This just got recommended to me. Anyone else? Let's share coordinates 😂
Texas.
South Texas
michigan
Silicon Valley, CA
Northern California
FOR MOST ALL OF YOU PEOPLE WHO LIVE OFF GRID, OR IN AN R.V. YOU WHO HAVE METAL SIDING ON YOUR HOME ARE ALREADY WELL PROTECTED IN A METAL BOX , YOUR OUTSIDE GENERATOR AND SOLAR PANELS WOULD HAVE TO BE PROTECTED. USE A WIRE MESH ( CHICKEN WIRE, 1" HOLES) OVER WINDOWS AND AROUND AND OVERALL OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT THAT NEEDS PROTECTION.
✌🙌🗣🙆🌎
After watching this video I question how to protect a whole house generator so I can continue household operation.
I have a special needs son that is on a special diet for seizures & must have reasonable temp conditions maintained.
The Carrington event was followed one lunar month after by the detonation of a munitions plant. That explosion wasnt associated with the carrington event but it should have been. Its possible the earths magnetic field was excited to extend out to the moon. The carrington event wasnt from extending out to the moon, but dropping back to the earth. And then the moon orbited around and the field having excited out to the moon a second time, dropped back.
Thanks for the great information. Is there a way to protect yourself in an apartment building?
Will the utility survive? If the majority of houses are knocked out, the utility will shut off. They are not going to stay on to sever a dozen or fewer houses.
I would expect the utilities to do everything possible to come back up, even if only for brief periods. It's impossible to say how successful they would be. The other reason to protect your electronics is that it enables you to hook up a generator or solar power generation system.
I have a solar system with batteries. I have EMP protection on the main panel. My concern is that the main breaker will pop in the event of an EMP.
There is a breaker panel that takes power from my Inverter (AC) and my powerwalls. Then it goes to the solar gateway and then tied into the grid.
My concern is if the breaker pops. It now separates the home from those components. I went with EMP shield. I am wondering if I should have an addition surge protector on the outside panel.
Will these panel surge suppressors protect the solar gateway and powerwalls if the main breaker is cut off from those components?
The audible warning is good! like a smoke or CO detector has. Would you want a silent smoke detector?
would you want a smoke detector the deaf people cant hear?
Thanks Doc, what I have needed to learn. How about my Generac Stand-by generator? 20Kw. Great lesson on Faraday fabrics. I have read your Survivalist series and your "no nonsense" disaster preparedness manual.
For units that don't automatically kick on and off every so often, people cover them with conductive cloth and put large broadband ferrites on their power wires. If the unit turns on and off automatically every so often, you probably can't cover it because that would interfere with the exhaust and ventilation, limiting you just to the ferrites.
@@disasterprepper I have an emergency generator connected with automatic busbar switch. I would think that if the main breaker box installed with protection as you show, it would protect it without added ferrites,
@@bensbergministries9261 Many people put a large broadband ferrite around the power cord to the generator (as close to the generator as possible) to reduce any radiated energy that gets coupled into that cable.
Thanks for all your work!
My concern is protecting my water well submersible pump from an EMP! Will the surge protector do this? And will the surge protector you described protect my whole house?
The method I recommend to protect homes is a quality surge protection device (i.e., Siemens FS140) and whole-house high-saturation ferrites (see disasterpreparer.com/product/custom-emp-ferrite-for-home/). For your pump, you would also want to put a broadband ferrite around the power bundle before it goes down into the ground. If it has a local breaker, a smaller surge protection device at the well would also be protective.
@@disasterprepper Did I miss the segment where you mention how to modify the ferrites? Do electricians know how to do what you are recommending. I'll watch again I guess.
@@danna9680 Dr Bradley doesn't go into that in his videos. From my work on ferrite cores I used in designing flyback switched-mode power supplies, I know that the cores had to be "gapped" in order to reduce their inductance, thereby increasing the current at which they would saturate. The thing is, for you to do it yourself would require you to first know what inductance is required, then know how to use the curves from the particular ferrite core to calculate the correct air gap, and then know how to precisely grind the core to create the precisely required air gap. We had a precision machine for doing this at work but even then, the inductance still had to be measured and often the gap had to be adjusted again. If you don't have a machine like that, you would have to spend time grinding it by hand then measuring the inductance, grinding, measuring, etc. It's time-consuming. And you also need the correct inductance meter.
@@LaBamba690 Thanks. Very complicated. I'm going to look into a company called EMP Shield.
Thank you
Hello, I live off-grid. My system is a 12vdc system. Is there some sort of SPD that I could use, to prevent EMP damage?
In addition, what could be used to protect my solar panels?
Also, is there some type of SPD that could be placed on an automotive battery, to protect my vehicle’s electrical components?
Hi Bruce, there are DC SPDs. I think Midnite Solar has some. As for panels, I have a whole video on solar power protection. For car batteries, I recommend the TRAP-B be placed across the terminals (disasterpreparer.com/product/trap/).
I have a couple common sense problems with this . #1 If there was a emp strong enough to damage anything in your home then your electronics no longer working is the least of your problems . #2 If there is s solar storm strong enough to effect the electronics in your home , getting past the Earth's magnetosphere , then your electronics are the least of your problems .
theyre planning this for the end of September 2022!
Written on 27th of September, 2022.
Very interesting presentation ... Thank you. Question 1: Our shop and house have metal (grounded roofs. How if any does that help in and EMP episode? Q 2: We put all our shop and house wiring (about 11,000 sq ft) in metal conduit (ridgid and flex), How much is any does that help. We had a massive lightning strike several years ago (hit our windmill) and many houses in the rural neighborhood suffered appliance damage while we did not.... Our rural electric put two shunts right at our underground fed 200amp (single phase) transformer. Will look into the FS140 for sure.
This confuses me too. Ferrous metal will pass a magnetic field. Metals such as aluminum, lead and some stainless will not.
The trouble with many shunt-type (usually mov-based) protectors is the long leads. That much inductance handicaps protection against the higher-frequency energy.
i saw some with thick metal strips inside a train power converter. real parts do exist out there
@@echelonrank3927 There are some shunt-type protectors where buss bars route directly across large wireless MOVs. Very low inductance.
Yup, you want the heaviest gauge possible and short as possible lead length. The E1 pulse will see the long wires as a capacitor defeating the protection.
Hi Doc, I think it's time to suggest a plan B and C to the FS140. They have been impossible for me to find for a while now.
A good alternative (at lower cost) is the EATON CHSPT2ULTRA. It's a very well built unit.
Try Amazon
Home Depot has them currently in stock.
You are crazy in a good way brother thank you
Thank you!
I have installed many of them. It is important to have looping wires. Never have 90 degree shape bends. I have seen some that were and the overvoltage arched out and did not protect the system. I have changed others that did work and the area where the device was looked like popcorn bits of tinfoil. But the rest of the system is ok
Good information for protecting your home but my hang up is, What good is this protection when the overall powergrid is not prepared for a CME or EMP event? Having your home protected is great but without in power generation equipment being equally prepared and protected what good is it? Many papers have been written about how fragile our power grid is in regards to CME's or EMP's. So would you recommend coupling this system with your own power generation whether it be by generator or solar? I haven't done the research but what are the effects of an EMP on solar systems and is there protection for them as well? Thanks
Even if the main grid were to go down, if your own system was protected, then you could keep yourself running via backup generator or personal solar power system.
The only protection for generators and solar is to have replacement parts protected from EMPs.
As far as the grid is concerned, don't you think our electric bills are more than high enough now? Oh, you can thank the demorats for that.
you should take a look at midnite solar's SPD....they probably make one better than seimans
I often think about how trains can carry these enegies as well.. i have a few solutions to mitigate risk
This is so much easier than finding a big enough microwave to put my house in.
🤣wtf🤣🤣
The e3 just ads a dc bias to the AC which can damage transformers but won’t be passed on.
My question to you is:
I have 2 different solar systems.
One of them is directly to the panel without batteries... the other one is Tesla with batteries...
Plus, i have a 20 kw generator.
How to protect all of this systems... fundamentally... the Tesla one.
Thank you very much.
You only talked about protecting devices that were plugged in to house power. I thought any device, even if not connected, would be damaged by EMP unless it was in faraday cage.
That's where you use EMP bags or Faraday cages.
Have you check out EMP Shield? If so, what's your opinion? Also how would a generator effect the installation of the SPD? Would I need protection on it also?
Hi Charles, I try not to comment on specific products. As for the generator, it doesn't affect where or how the SPD is installed. The SPD would still go across a secondary breaker in the main panel box. As for the generator, it's a good idea to put a large broadband ferrite or toroid around the power cord, preferably as close to the generator as possible.
I can comment because I am unafraid of legal repercussions from the EMP shield people. It is no better than a Siemens or Leviton etc. surge protector, but at 3 times the price. It provides virtually zero protection for vehicles. Folks who promote the device are in on the scam for $. Truth. Watch this channel if you want serious info on how to provide some EMP or other type surge protection. His advice is sound. EMP Shield is snake oil marketed with fear tactics customized to appeal to preppers. There is your answer Charles.
I’m not up on this issue, but why wouldn’t electrical providers have these surge protectors, built into the meters that they affix to our electrical service lines?
Question I have is - We have a 106kw diesel generator with an auto switch, that will fire the generator within 15 seconds of loosing power, to power our home and business. Would the auto switch and generator be fried in the event of an EMP and if they would is there a good way to protect them? And if they are protected would the rest of our internal power grid be protected?
The generator ATS should be protected. The Siemens TPS3A03050 is suggested.
I just bought some ferrites from your website. My question is do high saturation ferrites last forever or will they still saturate over time
Great info!!! Tks so much
Did you mean use 10 gauge wire just to connect the surge protector to the mains panel, or, that the whole house should be wired using 10 gauge?
Does your shielding become a whole-house protection from RF & EMP, or does the house still need covered with conductive grounded coatings to make it a faraday cage?
Really enjoyed your tutorial..nice speed; clear, concise speech; informative!
This surge protector uses 10 AWG wire. While that might seem small to some people, remember that the current is flowing through the wires only a very brief period of time (microseconds at the most). This helps to address the conducted threat of an EMP, but one must still consider the radiate threat. Using EMP bags (or Faraday cages) and small broadband ferrites on the power cords of appliances helps with that.
@@disasterprepper 10-gauge is fatter/thicker than the common 14-gauge used as house-wiring. That is why I asked.
For those who don’t know: the smaller the gauge number of wire or metal sheeting, the fatter the wire or metal sheet. The higher/bigger the number of the gauge, the thinner the metal is. That often confuses people.
Using 10-gauge to wire whole house would be difficult because of how thick it is...& standard fittings are built to fit 14-gauge...but I have heard of a few who thought it a good idea to wire whole house with the heavier-gauge.....Could only guess they thought it could help prevent breaker switches from tripping from loading too many in-use appliances on the circuits?
If I understand correctly though, the heavier/thicker 10-gauge wire would cause less resistance, which might prevent the wiring heating up...which makes it better to wire the a protection gadget that’s wanted to work faster.
So....might it be even better to wire that gadget to the panel using even fatter/thicker wire, like 6 or 8-gauge, for faster reaction to protect household from sudden spikes? Get less resistance for faster protection response?
@@Chimonger1 Yes, all true. I like the larger 10-gauge wire. Some SPDs use 12 or 14-gauge, but as you said, there is a bit more heating in the wires when high currents are drawn.
@@disasterprepper I think I’d lean towards wiring on that kind of gadget using 8-gauge, or even 6-gauge, for fastest response, & avoiding melting of thinner gauge wire from overload resistance.
@@Chimonger1 The wire leads are built into the device.
The most important appliances to me are the full size refridgerator and the full size upright freezer. I would like to install a ferrite on the cords to each. They both have their own dedicated line from the electric panel. The cords to both appliances are flat and approximately 1/2" wide which is different from regular household cords, such as for lamps. The ferrites for sale in your store appear to be for round cords imo. Do they work for flat cords too or should the ferrites be placed on the dedicated wire coming out of the electrical box?
The ferrites will work for either a round or flat cord.
Good question
First of all, dump all appliances that have ANYTHING solid state in them. EMPs and surges are unlikely to affect pure mechanical equipment.
Can't the EMP signal couple directly into (not via its power cord) a device and cause damage? The frequencies in E1 can be super high which means the wavelength can be super small. I think the destructive signals could couple right on to circuit board traces and cause permanent damage. I think the only way to stop that is to put the device into a Faraday shield.
What can I do to save the lawn in an event? I've worked hard on my yard.
Sow more seeds
It's crazy that surge protector is now almost $500.
Sounds like major price gouging. If you can't get a Siemens, look for an Eaton CHSPT2ULTRA. It's a very good unit.
@@disasterprepper I will thank you
Even a newer model 140 is $190 on amazon. Other 140 models are less.
Amazon is often more than other sources.
Do you have a video for people who don’t live in a house… what steps, if any, can we do for our apartments/ condos etc?