Hi Anthony, Yes most of the lathes and machines available from Warco can be supplied single phase from new. I'm the second owner of this machine and I'm not sure why he bought it 3 phase, he had a single phase home workshop. It will be 240v running off a 13amp plug very soon! Glad you have had a great experience with your lathe, I'm sure this one will be just as good. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
Thanks Grum, Much appreciated as always. Get ready to be put to shame then 😂😂 I'm going to make an entire video on it, just for you!! 😂😂. To be honest, I don't know how I'm going to do it, that you can see on it in the videos is welded on like concrete!!! Never seen anything like it before. I assume it has something to do with him using neat cutting oil. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
@@MattChiversWorkshop At the risk of subjection myself to more derision than usual, in the cnc's at work which use neat cutting oil, the best thing we found to clean the stains and debris is a bucket of hot water with powdered washing powder (as in Daz, Bold, etc) in (as much as possible) and then apply with ye olde fashion scrubbing brush. Let it soak and then rinse off with clean hot water followed by a good dose of AC40 or similar before refilling with oil. Try on a small area first as we did "mislay" some paint on one of the machines!
Hey up Kev, Those electrical and electronics parts of my Engineering courses at college/uni, finally came in useful!! 😂😂. All the best my TH-cam friend, Matt 👍🚂
We recently bought an ex school lathe its an Optimum D360x1000 which is a near carbon copy of the Warco I'm hoping to get a digital inverter and fit it wired to a couple of sockets so i can run a couple of machines. I have bigger machines for a future workshop build which will be ran off a generator so when this machine is moved it will be just plug and play.
I've just looked the optimum d360 up, Yeah it definitely looks like it's come from the same factory, just a different colour in the paint gun! Now having one VFD for several machines, my advice is don't, have a VFD per machine. VFD's are not designed to run multiple machines, only one motor. All the best, Matt.
@MattChiversWorkshop I was looking at a 4 kw digital phase converter from JFK electrical in northern Ireland more so I can just plug and play so when it's moved in the future I won't have to change back anything. I bought a Pinnackle mill earlier in the year with a vfd already fitted works great but a good bit to change back in the future. Looking forward hopefully to you fitting a dro on your lathe 👍👍
Hi Matt Another great video, thanks If you are going to start cleaning, I recently picked up an ash vacuum from Lidl (only €28 in Ireland) and it brilliant a hovering up swarf off the lathe and mill
Hi Seamus, I have a Henry hoover for the workshop, rather handy are vacuums in the home workshop. This though on this lathe I've never encountered anything like it, he used neat cutting oil in the machine and all the swarf and chips have effectively turned into a metal concrete coating, thats very hard!!! Not a fan of neat cutting oil in machines. Will be interesting to get it off!! All the best, Matt, 👍🚂
Just to be pedantic, your original 3 phase wiring diagram had an error. The forward contactor connects phase 1 to phase 1, phase 2 to 2 and phase 3 to 3. However, the reverse contactor should swap 2 of the phases. E.g. Phase 1 to 1, phase 2 to 3 and phase 3 to 2. Of course it's all academic as you ripped out all of that circuitry! Regardless, an interesting video giving a nice insight into fitting a VFD to a machine for use in the home workshop.
Hi Mark, there's always one!! 😂😂 I did say you would have to forgive me for my drawing.... the disclaimer was said 😂😂. It ended up more of a tutorial than I would have liked, but it's all good fun! All the best, Matt 👍🚂
I don't know if your VFD has this option. I have an IMO Jaguar CUB running my Colchester master. The best feature is adding a Potentiometer to control speed. It's great when turning and a part starts to "sing" adjusting the speed can easily get over this.
Now, that is an interesting idea!! I may look into that further. I know it can be done with the VFD I'm using so it's just somewhere to put it. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
I would add the centre off position of the 2 speed switch in the stop circuit. Those solid state inveters don't like open circuit on the 3 phase out. How did you confirm it was wired as Delta (240V 3 phase) to match the inverter, I thought the 2 speed was the double star configuration (380V 3 phase). Just curious as I would have expected to have to move some links in the motor JB, a 380V motor will spin with 240V just with less power/torque.
Hi Paul, the switch will never be in the centre off position, to be honest I don't understand why it was fitted with a 3 way switch as standard. It has no use. I may swap it out for a two way. When you take off the wiring cover on the motor, there was a diagram showing the wire configurations for delta (triangle symbol) and star (YY symbol). My experience is induction motors are normally delta config. I've never had an issue with reduced torque on my machines, I just know I can't over do it with the cuts. I managed 1.5mm deep on the Harrison no problem, but it's rare I do that deep. All the best, Matt. 👍🚂
Hi Matt, My experience is smaller motors, i.e. less than 3kw are typically 240V delta 400V star. All my machines are like that except the shaper that's 440V star only. Larger motors being 400V/690V or thereabouts, i.e. when you swap for DOL to star delta starters ish. I had to look up how these pole changing motors work, looks like what you have is a Dahlander connection both Delta and Star are designed for 380V not the 240 V the inverter produces. The Delta connection is the high speed and the YY is the low speed. The net effect is you will be putting about 2/3 the current through the windings and getting 1/3 the torque. Probably not an issue as you have a geared machine unless you plan on taking Abom or CEE sized cuts 🤣.
Thanks Jeff. I studied engineering in college/University and half the courses was electrical and electronics, some of it has stuck and become rather useful over the years. Fingers crossed, as of yet I'v not burnt any houses down! All the best, Matt 👍🚂
Hey Mule, Only issue being, rotary phase converters over here cost a lot, new ones are 20x the price, and static converters are 10x the price of VFD's. Plus I enjoy it, the challenge of researching and working out what I need and how to make it run. All good fun. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
Kris Harbor's channel did a video a couple of years ago where he built a rotary converter using a Machine Mart phase converter (£400) and a spare 3 phase motor. He connected it to a 3 phase socket, so could move it around his workshop and use it to power his different machines. I managed to find a second hand Transwave phase converter on marketplace and will be building a rotary converter with it to run my Bridgeport as it needs some odd voltages for it's feed motors etc that I don't think I could achieve from one vfd ?
@@MattChiversWorkshop Same issue here in Aus. I actually purchased a rotary converter that was specced for my motor size. Cost almost half the price of the lathe and it won't run the top 2 high range speeds. (cant take it back long story). Next size up is way dearer and in their instructions the company states if it wont run something properly to add a VFD as well.
I got a silly question... converting from 3 phase to 2, does the 24v transformer still give the same voltage, or is it different? And if it's different, is it close enough to not matter? I have no real clue; I don't play with AC, it scares the life outta me.
There are no silly questions Kaylee! Well I was hoping to reuse the transformer but when I hooked it up to single phase and checked the output with the multi meter it was iirc around 14volts. So too low for the ancillary components on the lathe, so I will need to replace it with a 240v version. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
the motor says 580v on the label which I suspect should be 380v. As you are running on a 230v VFD the motor will only be getting 230v 3ph. You risk burning the motor out as it will be underpowered on 230v
The motor says 380v, the 3 is just badly done. I've researched the motor so I have the full spec on it. Burn out the motor?? It's an induction motor which can actually be speed controlled via suitable control method like a vfd and a potentiometer. Yes running at 240v will give me slightly less top speed and lose a little torque, but this is for hobby use, not production. If I see the need for more power I will switch the AT-1 inverter to a AT-4 which will give 380v 3 phase output, yes from single phase. Matt
Thanks for explaining the electrical side of things. Now I fully understand. NOT! 😂I was a fitter machinist but I found it very hard to understand electrics and that's even very basic stuff lol
Hi Dermot, Your not the only one, I think many don't understand it. When I was studying engineering at college, for some reason half the lessons were on electrics, electrical principles and electronics.... the principles, formulas, science involved is mind boggling! Some of it has stuck, and I have always been a tinkerer in working out how things work and fall apart and go back together! All the best, Matt. 👍🚂
I have a Worco 1327 lathe bought new in 1995 what a wonderful machine,it came with a 13 amp plug fitted and still working perfectly today.
Hi Anthony, Yes most of the lathes and machines available from Warco can be supplied single phase from new. I'm the second owner of this machine and I'm not sure why he bought it 3 phase, he had a single phase home workshop. It will be 240v running off a 13amp plug very soon! Glad you have had a great experience with your lathe, I'm sure this one will be just as good. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
Brilliant informative video as ever Matt. Please don't mention cleaning up the machine... you will put me to shame!
Thanks Grum, Much appreciated as always. Get ready to be put to shame then 😂😂 I'm going to make an entire video on it, just for you!! 😂😂. To be honest, I don't know how I'm going to do it, that you can see on it in the videos is welded on like concrete!!! Never seen anything like it before. I assume it has something to do with him using neat cutting oil. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
@@MattChiversWorkshop At the risk of subjection myself to more derision than usual, in the cnc's at work which use neat cutting oil, the best thing we found to clean the stains and debris is a bucket of hot water with powdered washing powder (as in Daz, Bold, etc) in (as much as possible) and then apply with ye olde fashion scrubbing brush. Let it soak and then rinse off with clean hot water followed by a good dose of AC40 or similar before refilling with oil. Try on a small area first as we did "mislay" some paint on one of the machines!
Very nice work sir. My vfd made a big difference in my lathe.
Thanks Rusty. I can't wait to get it cleaned up, into place, so I can get going on it! All the best, Matt 👍🚂
you certainly know your electrical onions Matt
laterzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Kev
Hey up Kev, Those electrical and electronics parts of my Engineering courses at college/uni, finally came in useful!! 😂😂. All the best my TH-cam friend, Matt 👍🚂
We recently bought an ex school lathe its an Optimum D360x1000 which is a near carbon copy of the Warco I'm hoping to get a digital inverter and fit it wired to a couple of sockets so i can run a couple of machines. I have bigger machines for a future workshop build which will be ran off a generator so when this machine is moved it will be just plug and play.
I've just looked the optimum d360 up, Yeah it definitely looks like it's come from the same factory, just a different colour in the paint gun! Now having one VFD for several machines, my advice is don't, have a VFD per machine. VFD's are not designed to run multiple machines, only one motor. All the best, Matt.
@MattChiversWorkshop I was looking at a 4 kw digital phase converter from JFK electrical in northern Ireland more so I can just plug and play so when it's moved in the future I won't have to change back anything. I bought a Pinnackle mill earlier in the year with a vfd already fitted works great but a good bit to change back in the future. Looking forward hopefully to you fitting a dro on your lathe 👍👍
Hi Matt
Another great video, thanks
If you are going to start cleaning, I recently picked up an ash vacuum from Lidl (only €28 in Ireland) and it brilliant a hovering up swarf off the lathe and mill
Hi Seamus, I have a Henry hoover for the workshop, rather handy are vacuums in the home workshop. This though on this lathe I've never encountered anything like it, he used neat cutting oil in the machine and all the swarf and chips have effectively turned into a metal concrete coating, thats very hard!!! Not a fan of neat cutting oil in machines. Will be interesting to get it off!! All the best, Matt, 👍🚂
good work 👍
Thanks Alan. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
Just to be pedantic, your original 3 phase wiring diagram had an error. The forward contactor connects phase 1 to phase 1, phase 2 to 2 and phase 3 to 3. However, the reverse contactor should swap 2 of the phases. E.g. Phase 1 to 1, phase 2 to 3 and phase 3 to 2. Of course it's all academic as you ripped out all of that circuitry! Regardless, an interesting video giving a nice insight into fitting a VFD to a machine for use in the home workshop.
Hi Mark, there's always one!! 😂😂 I did say you would have to forgive me for my drawing.... the disclaimer was said 😂😂. It ended up more of a tutorial than I would have liked, but it's all good fun! All the best, Matt 👍🚂
I want to know how you got the clear cover off with the resstricted access to the screws 😀😀
Top secret Andy 😂. May show it in the next video..... may forget also 😂. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
@ 🤣🤣 I’ll pop round and you can show me 🤣
Good to see it cutting chips. 😀 and you haven’t broken rule 0 - don’t be on fire 🤣
Hi Julia, yes was good to see it making chips, and no I didn't catch fire.... well not on camera anyway! 😂😂. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
I don't know if your VFD has this option. I have an IMO Jaguar CUB running my Colchester master. The best feature is adding a Potentiometer to control speed. It's great when turning and a part starts to "sing" adjusting the speed can easily get over this.
Now, that is an interesting idea!! I may look into that further. I know it can be done with the VFD I'm using so it's just somewhere to put it. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
I would add the centre off position of the 2 speed switch in the stop circuit. Those solid state inveters don't like open circuit on the 3 phase out.
How did you confirm it was wired as Delta (240V 3 phase) to match the inverter, I thought the 2 speed was the double star configuration (380V 3 phase). Just curious as I would have expected to have to move some links in the motor JB, a 380V motor will spin with 240V just with less power/torque.
Hi Paul, the switch will never be in the centre off position, to be honest I don't understand why it was fitted with a 3 way switch as standard. It has no use. I may swap it out for a two way.
When you take off the wiring cover on the motor, there was a diagram showing the wire configurations for delta (triangle symbol) and star (YY symbol). My experience is induction motors are normally delta config.
I've never had an issue with reduced torque on my machines, I just know I can't over do it with the cuts. I managed 1.5mm deep on the Harrison no problem, but it's rare I do that deep.
All the best, Matt. 👍🚂
Hi Matt,
My experience is smaller motors, i.e. less than 3kw are typically 240V delta 400V star. All my machines are like that except the shaper that's 440V star only. Larger motors being 400V/690V or thereabouts, i.e. when you swap for DOL to star delta starters ish.
I had to look up how these pole changing motors work, looks like what you have is a Dahlander connection both Delta and Star are designed for 380V not the 240 V the inverter produces. The Delta connection is the high speed and the YY is the low speed. The net effect is you will be putting about 2/3 the current through the windings and getting 1/3 the torque. Probably not an issue as you have a geared machine unless you plan on taking Abom or CEE sized cuts 🤣.
english design built in taiwan, good machine with some oddeties
How slow does it go?
Is it slow enough to turn 7" wheels???
Hi John, 45rpm.... maybe a little too slow, 7" wheels are a bit small though! 😂. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
Great explanation, but I'd burn my house down if I tried this. Lol. Electricity and I dont mix, on any level,
Thanks Jeff. I studied engineering in college/University and half the courses was electrical and electronics, some of it has stuck and become rather useful over the years. Fingers crossed, as of yet I'v not burnt any houses down! All the best, Matt 👍🚂
me too 🤔🤔
Seems like a Rotary Phase Converter would have simplified everything.
Hey Mule, Only issue being, rotary phase converters over here cost a lot, new ones are 20x the price, and static converters are 10x the price of VFD's. Plus I enjoy it, the challenge of researching and working out what I need and how to make it run. All good fun. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
Kris Harbor's channel did a video a couple of years ago where he built a rotary converter using a Machine Mart phase converter (£400) and a spare 3 phase motor. He connected it to a 3 phase socket, so could move it around his workshop and use it to power his different machines.
I managed to find a second hand Transwave phase converter on marketplace and will be building a rotary converter with it to run my Bridgeport as it needs some odd voltages for it's feed motors etc that I don't think I could achieve from one vfd ?
@@MattChiversWorkshop Same issue here in Aus. I actually purchased a rotary converter that was specced for my motor size. Cost almost half the price of the lathe and it won't run the top 2 high range speeds. (cant take it back long story). Next size up is way dearer and in their instructions the company states if it wont run something properly to add a VFD as well.
I got a silly question... converting from 3 phase to 2, does the 24v transformer still give the same voltage, or is it different? And if it's different, is it close enough to not matter?
I have no real clue; I don't play with AC, it scares the life outta me.
There are no silly questions Kaylee! Well I was hoping to reuse the transformer but when I hooked it up to single phase and checked the output with the multi meter it was iirc around 14volts. So too low for the ancillary components on the lathe, so I will need to replace it with a 240v version. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
the motor says 580v on the label which I suspect should be 380v.
As you are running on a 230v VFD the motor will only be getting 230v 3ph.
You risk burning the motor out as it will be underpowered on 230v
The motor says 380v, the 3 is just badly done. I've researched the motor so I have the full spec on it. Burn out the motor?? It's an induction motor which can actually be speed controlled via suitable control method like a vfd and a potentiometer. Yes running at 240v will give me slightly less top speed and lose a little torque, but this is for hobby use, not production. If I see the need for more power I will switch the AT-1 inverter to a AT-4 which will give 380v 3 phase output, yes from single phase. Matt
Thanks for explaining the electrical side of things. Now I fully understand. NOT! 😂I was a fitter machinist but I found it very hard to understand electrics and that's even very basic stuff lol
Hi Dermot, Your not the only one, I think many don't understand it. When I was studying engineering at college, for some reason half the lessons were on electrics, electrical principles and electronics.... the principles, formulas, science involved is mind boggling! Some of it has stuck, and I have always been a tinkerer in working out how things work and fall apart and go back together! All the best, Matt. 👍🚂