Mark! Welcome to trials and tribulations of using an unfamiliar covering material. Been there and at the same time pulled out my hair to recover the air frame. 55555
Evening Mark, I totally agree with your comments on Easy Film. I was given some and to begin with struggled to remove the backing, even using tape. All I can say mine was a cheap small model and the state of the covering did not matter at the time. As the old addage says "you get what you pay for". Cheers and happy building/flying.
Good morning Mark. I am glad you said what you did about the covering. I recently bought the same material for one of my models and yes it was doing my head in. I even tried putting a sock over the iron. It would not go around curves well and as you said it bled badly. My favourite covering for my small models was litespan, I wish it was still available. Solar film made some great products. Thanks again. Terry
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment, I have used Oracover recently, so much better, but it is twice the price, but will probably use it again as it was joy to use
I liked it so much I built 6 of the trainer 60's with a variety of engines OS 40,OS 40 FSR, K&B61, and finally a OS 61 FSR ABC, I miss monokote as well as the super monokote, never a bleed problem, have a laser cut kit of the GP Trainer 60 that I will make a gasser of OS GT-15, haven't decided weather to use covering or go with epoxy paint
Hi Mark, another really good video! I especially like how you showed your prep work for the covering- the tools used, the templates, etc. All good tips. Bummer about the covering material, but from the vids it still looks great! Keep up the good work! FSM
I enjoy watching your videos on traditional balsa modeling! Brings back such fond memories from my boyhood. My favorite things about building wood models with solid windows from those days was making various graphic designs and chrome film windows! 🙂 Sorry to see you having such trouble with this new film. I can relate to your frustrations on a bad covering material. I too have tried various covering products( silkspan, Japanese tissue, Monokote and Ultracoat.) These days, I prefer Ultracoat because it's softer than other films and will handle compound curves easily. Also, it shrinks well with just a small iron. I have a few questions about your project: where did you buy the plans for this model? which retailer do you buy scalpels from? and lastly, have you decided on which epoxy resin to paint the engine compartment? Looking forward to see the final results of this build. Happy building!
Thanks for the comment, really appreciated, pleased you liked the video. The plans are from a website called OuterZone, which has 1000's for free plans, a link is in the video description. I get scalpals from either ebay or websites, which ever is the cheapest at the time. I but them in boxes of 100, and only Swann Morton 10a, 11 and 26. I use Zap 30 min epaxy thined with a little 95% ethanol
With a glow or gas plane, I always cover the bottom first. This way, your seams are down under the fuse, and less chance of oil getting under your covering. Then the sides, then the top. I used that covering before, and I don't really like it. I found it didn't hold up to glow fuel for more than a season or two
may i suggest your next build? if you go to Aerofred free plans do a search on a plane called WOT 4. might be a plane that you maybe interested.thanks for the content. sorry to hear about the film but thats the only to know if you like new items.
Hi Mark. Yes indeed,easycote should be thrown straight into the bin. One of my models wings was ruined as a result of the sticky mess that comes out of the edges when it's ironed down. I contacted the seller who said (predictably) we've not had any complaints before! and refused a refund on the unused easycote rolls. I'm going to direct them to your video as this material is not fit for its purpose. I'm going to start covering my models in good old fashioned Nylon and dope. Great videos as always. All that hard work potentially ruined by a terrible film covering. Hope the wings go well. Cheers. John
Hi Mark. I have a Super 60 which I covered in Easycote and decided to strip the stuff off the wing as its was a mess. What a terrible mistake. Removing the covering left most of the coloured adhesive stuck to the wing, and nothing( not even thinners) would remove it. Covering such a large airframe as the super 60 and Trainer 60 in Oracover is so expensive that Nylon and dope is cheaper (if you can stand the smell) and makes the wings and airframe almost indestructible.
Mark! Welcome to trials and tribulations of using an unfamiliar covering material. Been there and at the same time pulled out my hair to recover the air frame. 55555
Thanks for that!
Evening Mark, I totally agree with your comments on Easy Film. I was given some and to begin with struggled to remove the backing, even using tape. All I can say mine was a cheap small model and the state of the covering did not matter at the time. As the old addage says "you get what you pay for". Cheers and happy building/flying.
Totally agree, I have used Oracover recently, so much vetter, but it is twice the prie. Thanks for the comment
Alls well that ends well. Looks great Mark!
Thanks 👍
Wow the plane looks beautiful... nice color scheme.
Thanks a lot!
Very nice great job . I cant wait to see it finished
Thanks 👍
Good morning Mark. I am glad you said what you did about the covering. I recently bought the same material for one of my models and yes it was doing my head in. I even tried putting a sock over the iron. It would not go around curves well and as you said it bled badly. My favourite covering for my small models was litespan, I wish it was still available. Solar film made some great products. Thanks again. Terry
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment, I have used Oracover recently, so much better, but it is twice the price, but will probably use it again as it was joy to use
Try Monokote. You'll love it!✈
I wonder if a review of that covering would be it all useful.
you make it looks so easy. Thanks for the info, I'm going to paint mine
Thanks for the comment
You might be your own worst critic, Mark. It looks great to me…👍
Thanks John, really appreciate the comment
I liked it so much I built 6 of the trainer 60's with a variety of engines OS 40,OS 40 FSR, K&B61, and finally a OS 61 FSR ABC, I miss monokote as well as the super monokote, never a bleed problem, have a laser cut kit of the GP Trainer 60 that I will make a gasser of OS GT-15, haven't decided weather to use covering or go with epoxy paint
Yes, they are great trainers, flu so sweet, thanks for the comment
Don't hold back Mark say what you think 😂
hahahahaha
Hi Mark, another really good video! I especially like how you showed your prep work for the covering- the tools used, the templates, etc. All good tips. Bummer about the covering material, but from the vids it still looks great! Keep up the good work! FSM
Glad you enjoyed it, really appreciate the comment, Thanks
I enjoy watching your videos on traditional balsa modeling! Brings back such fond memories from my boyhood. My favorite things about building wood models with solid windows from those days was making various graphic designs and chrome film windows! 🙂
Sorry to see you having such trouble with this new film. I can relate to your frustrations on a bad covering material. I too have tried various covering products( silkspan, Japanese tissue, Monokote and Ultracoat.) These days, I prefer Ultracoat because it's softer than other films and will handle compound curves easily. Also, it shrinks well with just a small iron.
I have a few questions about your project: where did you buy the plans for this model? which retailer do you buy scalpels from? and lastly, have you decided on which epoxy resin to paint the engine compartment?
Looking forward to see the final results of this build. Happy building!
Thanks for the comment, really appreciated, pleased you liked the video. The plans are from a website called OuterZone, which has 1000's for free plans, a link is in the video description. I get scalpals from either ebay or websites, which ever is the cheapest at the time. I but them in boxes of 100, and only Swann Morton 10a, 11 and 26. I use Zap 30 min epaxy thined with a little 95% ethanol
@@MarkRobinson555 Thanks for the info!
Hi Mark, I use Hobbyking covering and it's cheap and works really well, try it. Nice video as always 👍
Hi Tom, thanks for the advice and the kind comment, greatly appreciated
With a glow or gas plane, I always cover the bottom first. This way, your seams are down under the fuse, and less chance of oil getting under your covering. Then the sides, then the top. I used that covering before, and I don't really like it. I found it didn't hold up to glow fuel for more than a season or two
Try a bit of thinners to remove the glue. Test first of course on a bit of scrap!
Thanks Bob, I will definitely try that later 😀
@@MarkRobinson555 Meths sometimes works.
may i suggest your next build? if you go to Aerofred free plans do a search on a plane called WOT 4. might be a plane that you maybe interested.thanks for the content. sorry to hear about the film but thats the only to know if you like new items.
Hi Mark.
Yes indeed,easycote should be thrown straight into the bin.
One of my models wings was ruined as a result of the sticky mess that comes out of the edges when it's ironed down.
I contacted the seller who said (predictably) we've not had any complaints before! and refused a refund on the unused easycote rolls.
I'm going to direct them to your video as this material is not fit for its purpose.
I'm going to start covering my models in good old fashioned Nylon and dope.
Great videos as always.
All that hard work potentially ruined by a terrible film covering.
Hope the wings go well.
Cheers.
John
Thanks, really appreciate the comment, totally agree, I have used Oracover recently, so much vetter, but it is twice the price.
Hi Mark.
I have a Super 60 which I covered in Easycote and decided to strip the stuff off the wing as its was a mess.
What a terrible mistake.
Removing the covering left most of the coloured adhesive stuck to the wing, and nothing( not even thinners) would remove it.
Covering such a large airframe as the super 60 and Trainer 60 in Oracover is so expensive that Nylon and dope is cheaper (if you can stand the smell) and makes the wings and airframe almost indestructible.