As an experienced Inkle weaver I feel I need to comment on the design of this loom. If you prefer a good tight warp which is easier to get correct selvages, the pegs will pull off the screws if they are not set into the uprights. Use a paddle bit to make a hole for the pegs then epoxy them in.
I made one of these from scraps a couple of years ago. It looks almost the exact same as yours. One thing I did different was to use thicker uprights and countersunk the pegs. This eased my fears that the tension on the weave would pull out the screws and f up all my work.
Thank you very much for the description of all the pieces used. Should make my attempt to make my own that much easier. Looking forward to more videos.
I just wanted to thank you for this video. I just finished building my loom based off your original design. I am really excited to get started with actual weaving.
Спасибо огромное за Вашу работу. Очень познавательное и интересное видео. Буду делать. Thank you so much for your work. Very informative and interesting video. I will do it.
Would it not be better to use a spade bit, create a bit of a nesting place for the pegs, and then glue/screw them into place? I'd imagine that would be sturdier. As well as sawing the short boards at an angle instead of screwing them on at an angle like that. I've not used an inkle loom yet (here to learn how) so I could be completely off my rocker. Just curious if you've tried it any different ways I guess.
G'day Dave... Yay Team...! Great stuff... I'm used to seeing them with 1/2 inch holes in the Uprights, with the 1 inch Pegs' Ends either turned in a Lathe or cut down with Wheelwright's Spoke-End Dowelling-Bit in a Brace, so the Pegs have 1/2 inch Round Tangs to go into the Uprights and Base/Tensioner as a Press-Fit... The only advantage to the method is that the Pegs may be removed for more space-efficient packing, transport, or storage ; and possibly maybe perhaps, the larger bearing-surface area of the 1/2 inch Peg-Ends may resist the Torsion-Loads from the Warp-Tension slightly better than the Sharp Hard Steel Screw-Threads into Soft Wood, with Aquadhere to "Case-Harden the Lumens of the Wooden Holes"...(?). Have a good one, ;-p Ciao !
Dave why did you angle the two uprights? Also have you ever thought about coming down to Georgia for a show, or demonstration I live in Savannah and would love to come see you guys. Do you guys have an instructor some were down here in this region? Also is there some place down here that does the schooling thing like you guys do? By the way great video and I look forward to seeing a lot more
Thanks, I was waiting to build one for the dimension. I thought they needed to be more precise. Could you just put more pegs in the uprights for longer straps?
Suggestion: Move that stop block a couple inches further from the end of the table. That way you can snug the dowel up to and push against it while sawing. Makes it just a bit easier to hold the dowel (or other piece) steady while cutting. Just one big shooting board.
Pretty easy to build but I will but double the material just in case cause you make everything look easy. Worst comes to worst I have two looms hAhhhaha. Good stuff dave, thanks see ya on the next one. Take care hey where's Rufus
+Brenda Hale He appears to be using a dewalt 18v? 1/2"? drill. You probably wouldn't need a hammer drill unless you're working with concrete/masonry. You can get a nice drill that should last years for about $100 US. Would personally stick with Dewalt, Bosch, or Milwaukee. Could pick one up with an impact drill combo for around 200. All depends on your needs. If you don't think they are worth it you could swing by harbor freight and pick up a cheap drill to get the job done starting for about $25? www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/drills-vs-hammer-drills-vs-impact-drivers/
As an experienced Inkle weaver I feel I need to comment on the design of this loom. If you prefer a good tight warp which is easier to get correct selvages, the pegs will pull off the screws if they are not set into the uprights. Use a paddle bit to make a hole for the pegs then epoxy them in.
Wow - I watched the video, took some quick notes and managed to successfully make this in less than an hour. Thanks for the great video. You DA MAN
I made one of these from scraps a couple of years ago. It looks almost the exact same as yours. One thing I did different was to use thicker uprights and countersunk the pegs. This eased my fears that the tension on the weave would pull out the screws and f up all my work.
Thank you for making & sharing the video on making the inkle loom 👌
Thank you very much for the description of all the pieces used. Should make my attempt to make my own that much easier. Looking forward to more videos.
I just wanted to thank you for this video. I just finished building my loom based off your original design. I am really excited to get started with actual weaving.
Спасибо огромное за Вашу работу. Очень познавательное и интересное видео.
Буду делать.
Thank you so much for your work. Very informative and interesting video.
I will do it.
Good information, very clear, easy to follow, great recap at end. BRAVO Well Done.
Nice loom Dave, I built mine by looking at the other loom in the video's and it works great...Thanks for the knowledge and God Bless...
Would it not be better to use a spade bit, create a bit of a nesting place for the pegs, and then glue/screw them into place? I'd imagine that would be sturdier. As well as sawing the short boards at an angle instead of screwing them on at an angle like that. I've not used an inkle loom yet (here to learn how) so I could be completely off my rocker. Just curious if you've tried it any different ways I guess.
Great video. I think I found my next winter project.
Thanks Dave. I'll be building one for my wife for Christmas.
Thank you so much for making this! It is truly awesome that you've shared this knowledge.
Thanks for that video Dave. As soon I get paid I will be building an Inkle Loom.
G'day Dave...
Yay Team...!
Great stuff...
I'm used to seeing them with 1/2 inch holes in the Uprights, with the 1 inch Pegs' Ends either turned in a Lathe or cut down with Wheelwright's Spoke-End Dowelling-Bit in a Brace, so the Pegs have 1/2 inch Round Tangs to go into the Uprights and Base/Tensioner as a Press-Fit...
The only advantage to the method is that the Pegs may be removed for more space-efficient packing, transport, or storage ; and possibly maybe perhaps, the larger bearing-surface area of the 1/2 inch Peg-Ends may resist the Torsion-Loads from the Warp-Tension slightly better than the Sharp Hard Steel Screw-Threads into Soft Wood, with Aquadhere to "Case-Harden the Lumens of the Wooden Holes"...(?).
Have a good one,
;-p
Ciao !
I love these videos! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! God bless you!!
😎👍👍🙏🙏 thanks for the straightforward build! Now I can get started!!
Dave why did you angle the two uprights? Also have you ever thought about coming down to Georgia for a show, or demonstration I live in Savannah and would love to come see you guys. Do you guys have an instructor some were down here in this region? Also is there some place down here that does the schooling thing like you guys do? By the way great video and I look forward to seeing a lot more
Thanks, I was waiting to build one for the dimension. I thought they needed to be more precise. Could you just put more pegs in the uprights for longer straps?
that is too cool! thanks again Dave for a great video!
Thanks Dave.
Suggestion: Move that stop block a couple inches further from the end of the table. That way you can snug the dowel up to and push against it while sawing. Makes it just a bit easier to hold the dowel (or other piece) steady while cutting. Just one big shooting board.
Great video...Thanks!! Now, I'm off to build my own loom!!
Thanks for the nice presentation
another good one dave
Good video! Found my way here from Wranglerstar
/ATW
Having trouble with the headdles..dont know where to measure from to get proper size...
awesome vid, lovin these weaving vids, great info for anyone lookin t do more that just survive.
Can you use paracord?
Pretty easy to build but I will but double the material just in case cause you make everything look easy. Worst comes to worst I have two looms hAhhhaha. Good stuff dave, thanks see ya on the next one. Take care hey where's Rufus
I am a beginner, what drill would you recommend for me to buy to make this loom and similar projects?
+Brenda Hale He appears to be using a dewalt 18v? 1/2"? drill.
You probably wouldn't need a hammer drill unless you're working with concrete/masonry.
You can get a nice drill that should last years for about $100 US. Would personally stick with Dewalt, Bosch, or Milwaukee. Could pick one up with an impact drill combo for around 200. All depends on your needs.
If you don't think they are worth it you could swing by harbor freight and pick up a cheap drill to get the job done starting for about $25?
www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/drills-vs-hammer-drills-vs-impact-drivers/
+Tdsfkj Hal;skjdf Thank you, that is very helpful.
Outstanding
It is certainly easy enough to build, i may have to give it a try!
Top thanks from Sophia , Curaçao
good stuff mate thank you
Won't let me reply. Try for 3rd time. Thanks
Hey there Dave I'm a big fan of your channel and have a request would u mention my channel HandH gear reviews on your channel it would be appreciated