Hey Mark, Just wanted to tell I watched your video and followed your method for falling a tree. I'm very novice at falling trees. I read some of the comments from expert tree fallers below and i'm sure their way works and is safe. Your technique made sense to me. It was the biggest I ever fell. 24" trunk, 52' tall. I placed it, followed all the steps, and it fell safely and exactly where I wanted it to. I was impressed and so where the people watching me. We all went home safe. Thanks for the video.
You can obviously do things more than one way. Mark is an extremely accomplished professional. He never said his way was the only way or the best way, it just happens to work for him in this situation.
Hey guys. I read the comments and I see that a lot of folks are missing the point. I am the son and grandson of professional loggers. I decided to become a professional arborist. I understand loggers priority is felling efficiency. What Mark is showing here are the PRINCIPLES of safe felling. The face notch he made is not commonly used in forestry logging but all the safe face notch PRINCIPLES are in line (70 opening, 80% of diameter, good directional hinge ...). This guy is a real pro at what he does including felling trees. Becoming a professional arborist like Mark requires a lot of training and technical knowledge. Please respect the man and his profession.
It would have been nice if you had shown the hinge after the felling. It's nice to inspect the hinge, the bore cut/plunge especially when trying to match up cuts from either side. You can always learn how to do better/be better. Great video, very clear and to the point. Thank you!
The use of camera close ups made it difficult to fully understand how the bore cut was made. A view of the stump after the tree was down would have been helpful. I think I understand what you did but taking a tree down of this size is too dangerous "to think" I understand.
@@watercoinzero and how is that small good for anything? At most that’s a 14 inch bar which would be grossly undersized for any firefighting applications. So what is the point here?
Thanks, good technique and safety tips. The bore technique can be tricky and dangerous if done improperly. Would you consider making another video demonstrating proper saw handling and foot placement. Thanks again.
Glad you mentioned vines. Here in the West we don 't have much of a vine problem, but I have worked in the East, where it's a common problem. This will give some guys an appreciation of what you are up against.
I am glad there are people like you that can orate the steps to cutting down a tree in 6 minutes that takes guys like me less than a minute to do. I grew up in northern Wisconsin where everybody I ever learned from (Father and Uncle) took the steps you did. It is scary times now because less people grow up working then get into the real world and clear their property buy their saws on ebay and bad things happen. That being said I am enrolling our volunteer fire department in chain saw safety classes next month. I will be in attendance but be a fly on the wall. Thank you.
Finally!! Someone who knows how to properly handle a saw (thumbs wrapped around handlebar) and a bore cut technique that originated here in the states from a man named Soren Erickson. This technique has literally saved many lives.
I found this a very good short video on the subject. Almost 30 years ago I was a first year electrical apprentice, and I got an arrogant expletive filled rant from a Master Electrician, he really was, when I politely suggested he should tie the sock differently on this huge wire pull we were doing. Chewed me out in front of all the guys from local 569. Well, half way through the pull, that empty sock came flying out of the vault with great speed. I was standing way the heck away and no one got hurt thankfully, but we were there a long time half-hitching the bejeesus out of that bundle. I really enjoy the fact that pros are willing to share their craft on YT, and I am still trying to learn more at this age on tree felling, strictly for firewood purposes; I find the size of the trees people are giving me intimidating so here I am. This is a well made video from Mark here so thank you. Who was it said : "Let no one despise your youth."?Be safe out there. Stihl all the way!
Bob Frazier, nice to see a faller here.😃 I actually use the Humboldt quite regularly- especially in the tree top (check the other video). I would agree that the wedge (especially a large one) could pinch your saw. Very valid. Two things I find most people do better though- 1- Gun the tree more accurately with the top cut first and 2- find level better, which reduces over cut or bypass. I also find many like to make the top cut first in order to look through the cut when making the second cut, again to lessen over cutting. And, in my area, we shoot for flat cuts at ground level to have no stumps to pick up with the loader😉 and prep for stump grinding. Hope this makes some sense?
I just got a stihl ms250c 18" from a guy who never used it . The next week a big pine uprooted the corner of a customers chain link fence and had it 15 feet in the air . What a sight to see that rootball fall into place and land 3/4 posts right back in the hole but had to replace 100 ft of stretched out chain link . Thanks for the good saw stihl and dude who was kind enough to give it up to get his tree cut .
This was a great video and I just cut down the tree in my yard and all went just great. The only possible thing I would have done differently is after I'd made my notch and I was sawing from the opposite side of the tree I wish I had made a chalk line around the circumference of the tree so that I could saw where I wanted to more perfectly. The tree came down a few degrees off from where I wanted it but no harm done since I carefully cleared out the area as suggested in the video. A chalk reference line around the tree would have been helpful to get it exactly right.
Hi Mark.I would like to say thank you.for your professional video ,It's clear honest.I like to learn from people I would feel safe with , and I would feel safe working with you .so many people are negative and jealous, and take there comments to far. Everybody works differently and are few and far between! It's all about foundation and basic safe knowledge,and working from that . I cant wait to watch and learn more from your videos .stay safe keep up your great work and videos.ill pass on your knowledge to my three boys and will keep moving forward also. Take care and thank you 😊
Husqvarna USA has another decent video done as an in-store tutorial that helps do a good job of explaining the different basic cuts, and WHY. Viewers should watch this vid, then read a bunch of the arguing comments below, then go watch the vid titled "Chainsaw How To - Notch and Hinge Techniques". As a homeowner amateur watching this stuff in order to learn, I think one of the most important factors for me to learn in making a good cut has nothing to with the cut at all. It's making a good assessment of all the forces to expect regarding how the tree will "want" to fall. I know the vids are produced by two competing companies, but they both give good insight for us beginners.
Enjoy your videos Mark. You show the safest way to get the job done properly. Glad to see you mentioned vines in this one as they really do pose a huge threat when cutting, had a friend a couple of years ago cutting and while he watched the tree fall vines broke a huge section of an adjacent trees rotten top off striking him in the back seriously injuring him, he recovered but has/will have back issues from now on.
Appreciate the comments guys. Look, there's many ways to do everything. Do you all use the same cut/approach to every situation because I do not. There's many variables to look at and that will determine the proper approach in my world. Look at the video of me topping the tree out before falling where I use the Humboldt cut. That is a different situation and required a different approach. As I mentioned, we don't like picking up little stump cuts because of using a Humboldt on every tree. Loading logs is much easier/faster when you keep them whole. This tree was in the wide open, on level ground and was a sweet gum. Pretty simple. If it were on a steep slope, had encroaching canopies, may slide back....a different approach is in order. And yes, I would recommend a rope when compensating for lean if needed. We do that daily. Good to bring that up.
Mark,Not sure where you learned that technique ? But in the 20 years of tree falling in British Columbia , Canada. I've never used that type of undercut never ! . Firstly > in the logging business ( where you are dealing with merchantable timber) it wastes to much wood for the mills to square the butt, secondly the formula I was taught by an old tree faller is the undercut is always generally 1/3 of the tree's diameter, the width of the undercut is equal to the depth. This formula has never failed me and I've fell some large tree's in the Fraser Canyon (between the Rockies and Coastal mountain Range) The biggest being 9' feet in diameter cedar. I always use the humbolt cut naturally this leaves the undercut on the stump.Mark i am not here to make you or anyone look like they are in elementary school, i am just speaking from experience and nothing else. In the tree felling business you either know what you are doing or your dead.
Justin Capp Appreciate the comment, sharing your experince and especially the tone! I don't disagree with anything you're saying. Arboriculture has different desired outcomes than logging does and therefore we make decisions based on our specific needs. A stump cut for us is a waste of time and considered a bit amateur to be honest. If we have six trees to remove in a back yard, then we have six small stump cuts to cleanup besides the logs. That's also six more cuts to make, and the logtruck doesn't load as nice with all of those small hunks. Like I've said , the traditional ways of doing good things are time tested and nothing to argue about. Just not the "best" way for all of our situations. It's nice to have choices to draw on. And, like you, I've been in this business for over 30 years and am out climbing and feeling even as we speak today! Stay safe.
Mark Chisholm I know you will have a time dealing with all the trolls on the net. So I would just like to say don't let them get you down and keep up the good work! Opinions are like A@!holes everyone has one and they all stink.
Mark Chisholm can I send you a picture of my tree? Maybe you can give some advice. I'm watching your vids and trying to apply your teachings. Maybe if you see what I'm dealing with, I can get direct advice on how to approach this at my own risk.
Mark Chisholm give up man, I’m a professional arborist and a logger in the winter. I agree with the technique you use here for doing trees in an arboricultural setting. But you’ll spend the rest of your life trying to respond to all the morons out here. It drives me insane. I just have to stop reading the comments section. I find that the loggers don’t get the concept that you have to use a different type of notch in a residential setting.
Wow thanks mark you covered every thing I didn't know I needed to think about. I have decided to let a professional do it.My insurance company thanks you too.
I started in the woods 50 years ago, when most trees were fell by hand saw. Nobody would cut a huge sloped undercut like you show... too much wood needlessly cut. The level cut was done first to establish where the tree would fall, which is always a 90 degree angle from the undercut. In the old days they would chop out the undercut with long-handled double-bitted axes and then saw the back cut with a crosscut hand saw, with wedges to ensure the saw didn't get bound and to make the tree go in the desired direction. Now we do all this with a chain saw!! I do not see the sense in boring into the center of the tree unless it has a big forward lean, and why wedge the side of the tree? If it has a big side lean, just hold more wood on the other side to the lean when doing the back cut. To help prevent a barber chair, cut a side notch a few inches in on both sides of the tree before doing the back cut. Also, the back cut should b a level cut, not a steep sloping cut some neophytes use thinking that will prevent the tree from falling backward. This is a dangerous practice and should never be done. Good felling folks...Les...
Les McMillan Hi Les, one thing I can't understand is why you mention a steep back cut? This video shows a very, very level horizontal cut just above ground level?
@@4freedomnow887 Math much? 50 years prior to the video was the 1960s when labor was cheaper than material or equipment. What were fallers making back then - maybe around a buck an hour at best?
Mark your an absolute expert, i'm glad you didn't plunge cut for a back cut which is madness, i do the scarface as the old school way which is the way all the chainsaw manufacturers of repute recommend & is OSHA approved , this is another option & you explained it correctly also..good work Mark.
If you use a humboldt type cut and put it approx. 1/3 of the thickness of tree then no side cuts or wedges are really needed . Side cuts can encourage rotation if the tree head or lean is too much against the direction of fall . A humboldt notch and full width hinge is safer I reckon and drops the tree end reliably away from the stump . For logging it also leaves the angle cut on the stump not the log .
Great quick overview video. Nice job. I’ll throw my obligatory two cents in as well - for a beginner that wants to attempt this, use caution on your plunge cut. My guess is he cut away from the shot (pun intended) at the onset of the plunge to avoid liability.. If you were to picture the end of your blade as a circle, or the face of a clock, kickback is prominent between 9-12 o’clock. So your plunge should begin around 6 oclock if that makes sense.
Awesome video Mark! Wish you would make a video on cutting up sections of a felled tree thats full length is laying partially into the ground. I have sandy soil here in N Fla and these huge Water Oaks on my property will do that. It takes a second to dull my Sthil saw chain. The ground here is soft. I love my Live Oaks but the Water Oaks even at 70’ have unbelievably small in diameter and depth roots. Thanks again!
Thanks for the vid Mark. I for one, just got my first saw and have never cut a tree down....on the youtube parade watching many vids. Thank you for the informational video, appreciate the efforts.
If you do the math, you will understand that a 70 degree Cumberland notch on a vertical (90 degree) trunk will close when the trunk is about 20 degrees away from hitting the ground. I do not think this video is intended to teach professional loggers, the most efficient way to maximize saleable wood. If you look at the tree felling accidents, many of them on TH-cam, Safety of the people involved in the tree cutting, is the greatest concern, and then being able to control the fall of the tree in the desired direction is the next concern. I would like to know why the wedges were placed so close to the hinge where they would have less leverage? Also, after placing the wedges, why was borecutting not simply continued towards the back of the tree to cut the trigger wood? Thanks
Ray Allison That's very true. For us, we aren't selling the logs and have to have a flush cut for the stump grinding process so this makes it more efficient.
Wedge placement was interesting, other then that looked similar to a three point cut- face cut, going in with saw near the hinge, leaving a 3 point conneted in back side, hammer in a wedge, and cut the 3 point.
great video....so on the back cut you dont have to go up a couple inches to provide a hinge?? is this video it looks like the back cut is even with front cut.
I can't think of a better affidavit from a pro logger than that, thanks for the insight GMF. I would add I'm baffled why there are other folk here whinging along the lines of 'I'm a pro logger and we'd never use a high angle 70 degree cut like this because time is money etc'.. If you're a pro logger you already *know* what you're doing.... or at least you should. This I would guess is aimed at folk wanting to learn the basics or improve their technique as they move to bigger work. For someone like me new to using a chainsaw, saving half an hour (which is way more than the difference in time between 45 & 70 degrees which is maybe 5 not 30 miinutes difference anyway) matters a lot less than making sure I avoid causing something dangerous to go wrong.
So many comments not understanding how he did this. Really? I thought he did great, I mean how much more easily do you have to explain it? 1.) Cut a notch in the direction you want it to go.2.) Go back an inch or so and begin cutting and inserting your chain saw to cut the interior out and leave enough in the back so the tree won't fall over thus calling it a backstrap. 3.) Pound wedges in close the front thus giving it some pressure lift to go forward once the backstrap is cut. 3.) Start chainsaw and gently insert into the previous cut and finish cutting the backstrap, once done step back and watch it drop. Done.Done.Com If you are new to cutting down trees try to bring a friend with you for an extra set of eyes better yet bring an experienced friend with you to help you with this cut. It is very common. Also, try to start on smaller trees until you get good at it, this will help build your confidence up. Lastly, for the Love of all that is Holy please use safety gear, eye protection, and ear protection a must, get that hard hat on in case an unknown loose branch breaks and falls on ya, some decent boots or shoes for this type of work and if you can afford it some chainsaw chaps or apron chaps for chainsawing (Different names are called depending on where u live). One more thing, please make sure you are using a quality chainsaw and that the chain is sharp, you should be seeing wood chips as it cuts NOT sawdust.
That I needed to know because I have not used my saws to fell a tree. I once tried to saw a tree which fell over our local road, blocking traffic. The bar got stuck in that tree, and another guy had to use his saw to make another cut to free my bar.
yes every tree assessment will warrant a different technique. also the plan can change due to the findings especially midway thru. I truly believe in safety regarding escape routes, barber chair avoidance, hang ups, Etc... and have the ability to improvise, adapt, and overcome problems. don't be stuck on one way because "that's the way I've always done it". some times that mentality can bite you in the ass.
Hmm I always started with a horizontal cut, dogging in at a third of the tree and worked it around until my sights lined up with direction of intended fall. After this I would slide the bar out and dog in at a 45 from the corner of the kerf of the horizontal cut. Not moving your feet was key and after practice, it would line up by the time the time the gunning sights lined up with the intended lay. After the undercut was complete I dog in where I want my holding wood and stumpshot height. After starting my cut I’d place a safety wedge ASAP and snug it up after the tree started to commit. By the time the sights lined back up for the third and final time the tree…if don’t right should be moving. If it’s not I place falling wedges in the back cut, making sure not to be directly in the rear, in case I have to bore the guts. Pretty simple and efficient this way after confidence is built cutting. I never would bore the back cut unless it was a heavy leaner to protect from barber chair. I learned to cut on Hotshot crews though so techniques may be different from an arborist.
most people don't address vines.....even if it takes an hour or 2 always cut loose every single one....some of my worst experiences with hangups come from not freeing the tree up completely and sendin the tree into the standing timber that you have to cut next. great tips mark thanks!
Markism07 He started strong but faded through the middle and end. Needs a little strength and conditioning to improve his "first and foremost" stamina.
I'll agree , I did say "First and foremost" a few times...but it isn't that easy to remember what we said earlier when you do 30 segments in a single day. I'll try to improve. 👍😁
Last but not least, we commend you always remember what is first and foremost folks. To be fair I hadn't noticed any repetition ..... I was too busy trying to work out *exactly* where to put the wedges and *how* to get there. The camera angle wasn't all that clear on the detail. Godd vid 'tho, useful.
No if you've positioned them correctly then once the final cut is made they will act as a fulcrum to guide the tree in the direction you want it to go. They are just there to help insure you hit your target zone, not to help bring it down.
I cut timber for a living year ago, and I could fell a tree just about anywhere you wanted with a simple notch. I don't understand the need for a "face cut". I had never seen one until just recently on another FB video, but the time to do that sure would have slowed me down and cut the amount of timber I could get out in a day.
The standard Stihl helmet system has some real disadvantages. Would you kindly post the Stihl part number for the helmet system you were using when this video was recorded?
I dont understand how this method put any lean into the tree at all, how could the wedges do any lifting when the back wasnt yet cut? Wouldn't it make more sense to do the back cut first, wedge it, then notch the front to the hinge?
number one rule you forgot when beginners are felling "don't be a dope, use a rope". that is if there is any weight or lean that you are unsure you might not be able to get to or over Centre (plum). no corner store nylon, and have it at least 2 thirds of the way up around a main trunk or leader. if the tree is dead have the rope go over a main crotch down the back side and tie at the base above the notch so you pull along the trunk.
Great tip about looking up & having an escape route. Take the time to clear a way where you won't trip over anything& keep looking up for potential " widow makers".
Very good video Mister Mark! My dad was a faller & logger in ' the good ol days' & taught me as your video represents. Your video is good & concise! What some of the jackasses seemed to miss is the fact that u have >1M views.😅.. AND the tree fell where u wanted & expected due to your professional knowledge. 😎
I came to read the "hater" comments, and I do not leave disappointed. It's interesting how EVERYBODY is a damn "expert" and been felling (and it's FELLING, not "falling") trees for 200+ years and looked in "HUNDREDS of Stihl manuals" (one guy actually said that) and on and on and on, but yet nobody else is "expert" enough to post up a video of their own. These videos produce some of the finest Monday morning, armchair QBs available. Look, I have my opinions about this guy's technique too and in my humble opinion, he did a few things wrong. Having said that, he addressed the most important thing (safety) 1st and throughout the video, and eventually felled the tree effectively and safely. Anyone heard of "more than one way to skin a cat?"
@@R0CCOTACO I think it is a USA/U.K. difference.For some reason people who cut down trees in Britain are called tree-fellers which gives rise to an Irish joke.
Top cut first, and way too steep? Maybe, maybe not. 27 yrs of doing the bottom cut first, and then, a top cut that is not as steep, has worked on thousands for me.
Hi.. I'm Narta from Indonesia, I'm also a woodcutter but the tree in Indonesia is small, the tree I cut is the sengon tree. Are there sengon trees in your area? 🙏
Hi guys, sorry I didn't see all of these comments. I should check it here regularly. "Why was the face cut shallow?" It doesn't have to be. Depends on many things. A general rule is deep enough to make it 80% of total width. That tends to be less than 1/3.
If you watch the many tree-felling videos on TH-cam I think you'll find that making a hinge cut in no way guarantees the tree will fall in the direction of the cut. It all depends on the tree's balance or "lean" which can be difficult to determine.
That's the way I learned how to fell a tree also. It's the best way and the safest way. And if you take a class through and insurance company they'll teach you and demonstrate felling a tree exactly like that also. The only minor difference I see is when you made your plunge cut, you leave a thicker hinge than I do and I cut the the back of the tree last which gives me more control over when the tree releases. Thank you for sharing!
Is it okay to just ring around the rosie one - watch which way it goes and run the other way, just once for old time's sake? If for nothing else but to preserve the memory of the long departed big dummy, Sir Darren?
What goes into the decision for the angle on the face cut? I’ve seen a few do the 70 degree method but often it’s far less from what I’ve seen anyways. Also the bore cut is to reduce Barber chairs in leaning trees correct? The face cut in this video just seemed much wider then what I see usually.
***** are you left handed and used the normal Stihl chainsaw? .. i can not think of anything that will make your post make sense to me.. but .. be easy.
if u are right handed, then please do no longer comment in my section... i only speak to left handed ones, i have no clue, why you would poist something here to discuss anything, thanks, bye. have a good day @SekfReliance1015;)
Mats Granqvist just fine? .. don´t tell me that in all the time you never did cut into your safety trousers! ;) .. tell the truth Handling a right hand chainsaw MUST result in - you cutting yourself in the leg; everything else is a myth, i tend to post. ;)
Awesome in depth, step by step video Mark!! Well done!!! Didn't seem like your first face cut, had much of a slant to it, but it worked. Plus I always thought wedges would be used more on an angle in the back? First time I've ever seen a full tree like this cut down. Thanks again so much👍.
Nice video. Was wondering about the depth of the face cut. It was pretty shallow. My face cuts tend to be deeper 1/4 or so of diameter. Did you keep it shallow because of the bore cut?
ali ray Nothing, I am yet to see a felling video without an obligatory ‘he doesn’t know what he’s doing’ comment. You get the same if you’re fixing a car
thank you so much i just finished cutting a huge tree 🎄 in my front yard and i was able to make it fall right where i wanted, thank you for your instructions. i was given an estimate of 1500$ to do it, again thank you so much
I've got about 16 or so tall balsam & spruce trees (all softwoods) around my camp in northern Vermont that I am constantly worried will fall on the camp, either by being uprooted (shallow root systems), or internal & unseen insect damage that weaken the tree, and they snap & blow over. The problem is that my camp is on government property, and they only will allow me to cut what they decide, and only from October first to April first (to protect the habitat of some rare bat - go figure!). It is not a job I would ever attempt, and the trees lean towards the camp and wood sheds I have. To further complicate the issue, no machinery can be used, so a professional tree feller is needed. Any ideas?
Cut them down yet? Tie a rope up in the tree as high as you can get reasonably. Hook up a come along to the rope in the direction you want the tree to go, hook to another tree or solid object farther away than the tree is tall. Tighten the rope with the come along just enough to take the slack out. Cut up the stump like in this video except you don't need to bore cut. Just cut straight in from the back. Setup a hinge and pull the tree over with a come along. If the lean isn't too bad likely you can just wedge them over.
@@wolley2012 I hired a professional. Many trees down - not one on the camp or wood sheds. How they did it is beyond me. I guess they climb and cut as well. Much relief for me. However, since the camp is on government property, I have to go by their dictates. There are still more trees that could potentially fall on the camp, but they were not ones that the government allowed for cutting. Thanks for the tip, but given the density of trees, I think there would not be enough clearance to allow a tree to totally drop, without getting wedged in other standing trees.
i have a question my grandpa is a tree cutter he doesn't know how to use ear plugs is there a way to teach him how to use them while cutting a tree down? i worry he may loose his hearing
hi Mark great stuff! where would I be able to find the gear you guys use? PPE etc. I would love that helmet and eye protection you have, looks comfy!! Thanks-Bill Newbury, NH
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Mark, Just wanted to tell I watched your video and followed your method for falling a tree. I'm very novice at falling trees. I read some of the comments from expert tree fallers below and i'm sure their way works and is safe. Your technique made sense to me. It was the biggest I ever fell. 24" trunk, 52' tall. I placed it, followed all the steps, and it fell safely and exactly where I wanted it to. I was impressed and so where the people watching me. We all went home safe. Thanks for the video.
STOP FALLING TREES, DEFORESTER
Good safety advice in the video, just be careful with bore cuts. You don’t want it to kick back as you’re starting one. And look up a lot!
@@paull2937 LMFAO.
@@paull2937 show us on the tree where the tree touched you
@@paull2937 MAYBE IT WAS DEAD AND A DANGER TO HUMAN LIFE 🤔🤔🤔
You can obviously do things more than one way. Mark is an extremely accomplished professional. He never said his way was the only way or the best way, it just happens to work for him in this situation.
Hey guys. I read the comments and I see that a lot of folks are missing the point. I am the son and grandson of professional loggers. I decided to become a professional arborist. I understand loggers priority is felling efficiency. What Mark is showing here are the PRINCIPLES of safe felling. The face notch he made is not commonly used in forestry logging but all the safe face notch PRINCIPLES are in line (70 opening, 80% of diameter, good directional hinge ...). This guy is a real pro at what he does including felling trees. Becoming a professional arborist like Mark requires a lot of training and technical knowledge. Please respect the man and his profession.
S Ouellet Thanks a ton for that effort my friend! It means a lot.
It would have been nice if you had shown the hinge after the felling. It's nice to inspect the hinge, the bore cut/plunge especially when trying to match up cuts from either side. You can always learn how to do better/be better. Great video, very clear and to the point. Thank you!
The use of camera close ups made it difficult to fully understand how the bore cut was made. A view of the stump after the tree was down would have been helpful. I think I understand what you did but taking a tree down of this size is too dangerous "to think" I understand.
That notch cut seems pretty light, 1/4 way in to the trunk works nice. And if this is your first time cutting a tree a bore cut seems pretty advance.
Sawyer Lives Matter. th-cam.com/video/i9aNSlDQ5v4/w-d-xo.html #SLM #SawyerLivesMatter
#ChainsawSafety #TreesNotCoEds
#PeopleWhoWorkWithChainsawsArePeopleToo #DownWithWildFires
@@jefferykennedy919 Carried enough gas cans into wildfires.
@@watercoinzero I’d rather go out in a blaze😂
@@watercoinzero and how is that small good for anything? At most that’s a 14 inch bar which would be grossly undersized for any firefighting applications. So what is the point here?
It’s actually the most accurate notch. It creates a better hinge which determines the direction of the falling tree.
American lumberjacks are very professional indeed. They have complete skills and equipment. This is awesome 😎
Thanks, good technique and safety tips. The bore technique can be tricky and dangerous if done improperly. Would you consider making another video demonstrating proper saw handling and foot placement. Thanks again.
Glad you mentioned vines. Here in the West we don 't have much of a vine problem, but I have worked in the East, where it's a common problem. This will give some guys an appreciation of what you are up against.
I am glad there are people like you that can orate the steps to cutting down a tree in 6 minutes that takes guys like me less than a minute to do. I grew up in northern Wisconsin where everybody I ever learned from (Father and Uncle) took the steps you did. It is scary times now because less people grow up working then get into the real world and clear their property buy their saws on ebay and bad things happen. That being said I am enrolling our volunteer fire department in chain saw safety classes next month. I will be in attendance but be a fly on the wall. Thank you.
Austin Denotter That's a great compliment. Thank you.
Finally!! Someone who knows how to properly handle a saw (thumbs wrapped around handlebar) and a bore cut technique that originated here in the states from a man named Soren Erickson. This technique has literally saved many lives.
I found this a very good short video on the subject. Almost 30 years ago I was a first year electrical apprentice, and I got an arrogant expletive filled rant from a Master Electrician, he really was, when I politely suggested he should tie the sock differently on this huge wire pull we were doing. Chewed me out in front of all the guys from local 569. Well, half way through the pull, that empty sock came flying out of the vault with great speed. I was standing way the heck away and no one got hurt thankfully, but we were there a long time half-hitching the bejeesus out of that bundle. I really enjoy the fact that pros are willing to share their craft on YT, and I am still trying to learn more at this age on tree felling, strictly for firewood purposes; I find the size of the trees people are giving me intimidating so here I am. This is a well made video from Mark here so thank you. Who was it said : "Let no one despise your youth."?Be safe out there. Stihl all the way!
Gotta love master electricians!!
Bob Frazier, nice to see a faller here.😃 I actually use the Humboldt quite regularly- especially in the tree top (check the other video). I would agree that the wedge (especially a large one) could pinch your saw. Very valid. Two things I find most people do better though- 1- Gun the tree more accurately with the top cut first and 2- find level better, which reduces over cut or bypass. I also find many like to make the top cut first in order to look through the cut when making the second cut, again to lessen over cutting. And, in my area, we shoot for flat cuts at ground level to have no stumps to pick up with the loader😉 and prep for stump grinding. Hope this makes some sense?
I just got a stihl ms250c 18" from a guy who never used it . The next week a big pine uprooted the corner of a customers chain link fence and had it 15 feet in the air . What a sight to see that rootball fall into place and land 3/4 posts right back in the hole but had to replace 100 ft of stretched out chain link . Thanks for the good saw stihl and dude who was kind enough to give it up to get his tree cut .
This was a great video and I just cut down the tree in my yard and all went just great. The only possible thing I would have done differently is after I'd made my notch and I was sawing from the opposite side of the tree I wish I had made a chalk line around the circumference of the tree so that I could saw where I wanted to more perfectly. The tree came down a few degrees off from where I wanted it but no harm done since I carefully cleared out the area as suggested in the video. A chalk reference line around the tree would have been helpful to get it exactly right.
Hi Mark.I would like to say thank you.for your professional video ,It's clear honest.I like to learn from people I would feel safe with , and I would feel safe working with you .so many people are negative and jealous, and take there comments to far. Everybody works differently and are few and far between! It's all about foundation and basic safe knowledge,and working from that . I cant wait to watch and learn more from your videos .stay safe keep up your great work and videos.ill pass on your knowledge to my three boys and will keep moving forward also. Take care and thank you 😊
big G woody Really appreciate that Thanks! It's all just genuine effort trying to help.
Husqvarna USA has another decent video done as an in-store tutorial that helps do a good job of explaining the different basic cuts, and WHY. Viewers should watch this vid, then read a bunch of the arguing comments below, then go watch the vid titled "Chainsaw How To - Notch and Hinge Techniques". As a homeowner amateur watching this stuff in order to learn, I think one of the most important factors for me to learn in making a good cut has nothing to with the cut at all. It's making a good assessment of all the forces to expect regarding how the tree will "want" to fall.
I know the vids are produced by two competing companies, but they both give good insight for us beginners.
Enjoy your videos Mark. You show the safest way to get the job done properly. Glad to see you mentioned vines in this one as they really do pose a huge threat when cutting, had a friend a couple of years ago cutting and while he watched the tree fall vines broke a huge section of an adjacent trees rotten top off striking him in the back seriously injuring him, he recovered but has/will have back issues from now on.
Russell Parrish Thank you Russell!
Appreciate the comments guys. Look, there's many ways to do everything. Do you all use the same cut/approach to every situation because I do not. There's many variables to look at and that will determine the proper approach in my world.
Look at the video of me topping the tree out before falling where I use the Humboldt cut. That is a different situation and required a different approach.
As I mentioned, we don't like picking up little stump cuts because of using a Humboldt on every tree. Loading logs is much easier/faster when you keep them whole. This tree was in the wide open, on level ground and was a sweet gum. Pretty simple. If it were on a steep slope, had encroaching canopies, may slide back....a different approach is in order.
And yes, I would recommend a rope when compensating for lean if needed. We do that daily. Good to bring that up.
Mark,Not sure where you learned that technique ? But in the 20 years of tree falling in British Columbia , Canada. I've never used that type of undercut never ! . Firstly > in the logging business ( where you are dealing with merchantable timber) it wastes to much wood for the mills to square the butt, secondly the formula I was taught by an old tree faller is the undercut is always generally 1/3 of the tree's diameter, the width of the undercut is equal to the depth. This formula has never failed me and I've fell some large tree's in the Fraser Canyon (between the Rockies and Coastal mountain Range) The biggest being 9' feet in diameter cedar. I always use the humbolt cut naturally this leaves the undercut on the stump.Mark i am not here to make you or anyone look like they are in elementary school, i am just speaking from experience and nothing else. In the tree felling business you either know what you are doing or your dead.
Justin Capp Appreciate the comment, sharing your experince and especially the tone! I don't disagree with anything you're saying. Arboriculture has different desired outcomes than logging does and therefore we make decisions based on our specific needs. A stump cut for us is a waste of time and considered a bit amateur to be honest. If we have six trees to remove in a back yard, then we have six small stump cuts to cleanup besides the logs. That's also six more cuts to make, and the logtruck doesn't load as nice with all of those small hunks.
Like I've said , the traditional ways of doing good things are time tested and nothing to argue about. Just not the "best" way for all of our situations. It's nice to have choices to draw on. And, like you, I've been in this business for over 30 years and am out climbing and feeling even as we speak today! Stay safe.
Mark Chisholm I know you will have a time dealing with all the trolls on the net. So I would just like to say don't let them get you down and keep up the good work! Opinions are like A@!holes everyone has one and they all stink.
Mark Chisholm can I send you a picture of my tree? Maybe you can give some advice. I'm watching your vids and trying to apply your teachings. Maybe if you see what I'm dealing with, I can get direct advice on how to approach this at my own risk.
Mark Chisholm give up man, I’m a professional arborist and a logger in the winter. I agree with the technique you use here for doing trees in an arboricultural setting. But you’ll spend the rest of your life trying to respond to all the morons out here. It drives me insane. I just have to stop reading the comments section. I find that the loggers don’t get the concept that you have to use a different type of notch in a residential setting.
Wow thanks mark you covered every thing I didn't know I needed to think about. I have decided to let a professional do it.My insurance company thanks you too.
Why do directors and editors love low-information close-ups?
Good work mark,that’s exactly the way I was trained and the way I train my guys.
Safety and control.
I started in the woods 50 years ago, when most trees were fell by hand saw. Nobody would cut a huge sloped undercut like you show... too much wood needlessly cut. The level cut was done first to establish where the tree would fall, which is always a 90 degree angle from the undercut. In the old days they would chop out the undercut with long-handled double-bitted axes and then saw the back cut with a crosscut hand saw, with wedges to ensure the saw didn't get bound and to make the tree go in the desired direction. Now we do all this with a chain saw!! I do not see the sense in boring into the center of the tree unless it has a big forward lean, and why wedge the side of the tree? If it has a big side lean, just hold more wood on the other side to the lean when doing the back cut. To help prevent a barber chair, cut a side notch a few inches in on both sides of the tree before doing the back cut. Also, the back cut should b a level cut, not a steep sloping cut some neophytes use thinking that will prevent the tree from falling backward. This is a dangerous practice and should never be done. Good felling folks...Les...
Les McMillan Hi Les, one thing I can't understand is why you mention a steep back cut? This video shows a very, very level horizontal cut just above ground level?
He never said you did a steep back cut......he said steep back cut SOME neophytes use.
bullshit. they weren't falling trees in the 70s with hand saws
Bore cut seemed unnecessary to me too plus it can get someone not used to running a saw in a bad situation.
@@4freedomnow887 Math much? 50 years prior to the video was the 1960s when labor was cheaper than material or equipment. What were fallers making back then - maybe around a buck an hour at best?
Mark your an absolute expert, i'm glad you didn't plunge cut for a back cut which is madness, i do the scarface as the old school way which is the way all the chainsaw manufacturers of repute recommend & is OSHA approved , this is another option & you explained it correctly also..good work Mark.
If you use a humboldt type cut and put it approx. 1/3 of the thickness of tree then no side cuts or wedges are really needed . Side cuts can encourage rotation if the tree head or lean is too much against the direction of fall . A humboldt notch and full width hinge is safer I reckon and drops the tree end reliably away from the stump . For logging it also leaves the angle cut on the stump not the log .
Great quick overview video. Nice job. I’ll throw my obligatory two cents in as well - for a beginner that wants to attempt this, use caution on your plunge cut. My guess is he cut away from the shot (pun intended) at the onset of the plunge to avoid liability.. If you were to picture the end of your blade as a circle, or the face of a clock, kickback is prominent between 9-12 o’clock. So your plunge should begin around 6 oclock if that makes sense.
6 o'clock of the trunk?
Five step:
1 Site Assessment
2 Tree Assessment
3 Working Space & Escspe Route
4 Correct Felling Cuts
5 Use Escape Route & Watch Tree Fall to Ground
How to fell a tree
Awesome video Mark! Wish you would make a video on cutting up sections of a felled tree thats full length is laying partially into the ground. I have sandy soil here in N Fla and these huge Water Oaks on my property will do that. It takes a second to dull my Sthil saw chain. The ground here is soft. I love my Live Oaks but the Water Oaks even at 70’ have unbelievably small in diameter and depth roots. Thanks again!
The cleanest chainsaws I have ever seen. Were they new for the film or do your clean them really well after use? Mine throws oil even in the case.
MIKE SCHUMACHER 😂😂😂😂
Thanks for the vid Mark. I for one, just got my first saw and have never cut a tree down....on the youtube parade watching many vids. Thank you for the informational video, appreciate the efforts.
I work as a timber faller. I put my angle cut on the bottom and the flat cut on the top. You don't waste as much tree
you waste more that way. because you can't cut the tree as close to the ground.
You are the one who has no knowledge or understanding about what arborists do. They don't sell those logs
If you do the math, you will understand that a 70 degree Cumberland notch on a vertical (90 degree) trunk will close when the trunk is about 20 degrees away from hitting the ground.
I do not think this video is intended to teach professional loggers, the most efficient way to maximize saleable wood. If you look at the tree felling accidents, many of them on TH-cam, Safety of the people involved in the tree cutting, is the greatest concern, and then being able to control the fall of the tree in the desired direction is the next concern.
I would like to know why the wedges were placed so close to the hinge where they would have less leverage? Also, after placing the wedges, why was borecutting not simply continued towards the back of the tree to cut the trigger wood? Thanks
Ray Allison That's very true. For us, we aren't selling the logs and have to have a flush cut for the stump grinding process so this makes it more efficient.
Humboldt Cut.
Wedge placement was interesting, other then that looked similar to a three point cut- face cut, going in with saw near the hinge, leaving a 3 point conneted in back side, hammer in a wedge, and cut the 3 point.
great video....so on the back cut you dont have to go up a couple inches to provide a hinge?? is this video it looks like the back cut is even with front cut.
I can't think of a better affidavit from a pro logger than that, thanks for the insight GMF.
I would add I'm baffled why there are other folk here whinging along the lines of 'I'm a pro logger and we'd never use a high angle 70 degree cut like this because time is money etc'..
If you're a pro logger you already *know* what you're doing.... or at least you should.
This I would guess is aimed at folk wanting to learn the basics or improve their technique as they move to bigger work.
For someone like me new to using a chainsaw, saving half an hour (which is way more than the difference in time between 45 & 70 degrees which is maybe 5 not 30 miinutes difference anyway) matters a lot less than making sure I avoid causing something dangerous to go wrong.
So many comments not understanding how he did this. Really? I thought he did great, I mean how much more easily do you have to explain it? 1.) Cut a notch in the direction you want it to go.2.) Go back an inch or so and begin cutting and inserting your chain saw to cut the interior out and leave enough in the back so the tree won't fall over thus calling it a backstrap. 3.) Pound wedges in close the front thus giving it some pressure lift to go forward once the backstrap is cut. 3.) Start chainsaw and gently insert into the previous cut and finish cutting the backstrap, once done step back and watch it drop. Done.Done.Com If you are new to cutting down trees try to bring a friend with you for an extra set of eyes better yet bring an experienced friend with you to help you with this cut. It is very common. Also, try to start on smaller trees until you get good at it, this will help build your confidence up. Lastly, for the Love of all that is Holy please use safety gear, eye protection, and ear protection a must, get that hard hat on in case an unknown loose branch breaks and falls on ya, some decent boots or shoes for this type of work and if you can afford it some chainsaw chaps or apron chaps for chainsawing (Different names are called depending on where u live). One more thing, please make sure you are using a quality chainsaw and that the chain is sharp, you should be seeing wood chips as it cuts NOT sawdust.
Great job. Why such a shallow face cut?? Is it because of the type of tree?
What model of Stihl are you using and why that particular model?
That I needed to know because I have not used my saws to fell a tree. I once tried to saw a tree which fell over our local road, blocking traffic. The bar got stuck in that tree, and another guy had to use his saw to make another cut to free my bar.
Great video, good way to teach safety. I'm glad you used a Stihl. I love mine 045 Super AV 26" bar .
Mark why does it look like you put your wedges so close to hinge point? If they are further back is it not good?
You didn't show how you made the final cut. Not a very helpful video.
She didn't show it
i believe he cut on both sides for the shims and then cut the back to complete all around, just a guess, im not sure
Jameson check it out I got a good videoth-cam.com/video/p1N6RZ_EbvA/w-d-xo.html
Look here th-cam.com/video/p1N6RZ_EbvA/w-d-xo.html
Excellent video and info, you made me feel WAY more comfortable about dropping a 90 footer
Nice job, how many times you accidentally hit your wedges doing it this way?
THE DUDE FORGOT TO YELL "TIMBER" ! NOT GOOD !
No one felling a tree professionally yells "timber". That's pop culture rubbish
this video its poor imo as it does show much as it should or explain fully
yes every tree assessment will warrant a different technique. also the plan can change due to the findings especially midway thru. I truly believe in safety regarding escape routes, barber chair avoidance, hang ups, Etc... and have the ability to improvise, adapt, and overcome problems. don't be stuck on one way because "that's the way I've always done it". some times that mentality can bite you in the ass.
Hmm I always started with a horizontal cut, dogging in at a third of the tree and worked it around until my sights lined up with direction of intended fall. After this I would slide the bar out and dog in at a 45 from the corner of the kerf of the horizontal cut. Not moving your feet was key and after practice, it would line up by the time the time the gunning sights lined up with the intended lay. After the undercut was complete I dog in where I want my holding wood and stumpshot height. After starting my cut I’d place a safety wedge ASAP and snug it up after the tree started to commit. By the time the sights lined back up for the third and final time the tree…if don’t right should be moving. If it’s not I place falling wedges in the back cut, making sure not to be directly in the rear, in case I have to bore the guts. Pretty simple and efficient this way after confidence is built cutting. I never would bore the back cut unless it was a heavy leaner to protect from barber chair. I learned to cut on Hotshot crews though so techniques may be different from an arborist.
thanks, im gonna do that trick soon..i had grinder saw which is not proper one,but its handy when it comes to gardening..just want to cut small tree.
most people don't address vines.....even if it takes an hour or 2 always cut loose every single one....some of my worst experiences with hangups come from not freeing the tree up completely and sendin the tree into the standing timber that you have to cut next. great tips mark thanks!
arborist460 Appreciate the comments my friend! It's nice to see someone take the time NOT to bash someone but to say something positive.
@@markchisholm1181 wow just seen where you replied mark…your always an inspiration for us little men in the game…thanks again. Matt@ky
@@arborist460 Appreciate that absolutely 💯
I would like to have seen the actual cutting done by the saw. Many of your shots were unable to be seen and that's what I was looking for.
can you say "first and foremost" one more time. just one more time please
Markism07 He started strong but faded through the middle and end. Needs a little strength and conditioning to improve his "first and foremost" stamina.
No i don´t think he gives a shit about you ,, but hey! i can type "first and foremost" .... just for you :] , feels better now huh?!
I'll agree , I did say "First and foremost" a few times...but it isn't that easy to remember what we said earlier when you do 30 segments in a single day. I'll try to improve. 👍😁
Mark Chisholm I always watch your vidoes Mark. I am always trying to improve myself everyday.
Last but not least, we commend you always remember what is first and foremost folks.
To be fair I hadn't noticed any repetition ..... I was too busy trying to work out *exactly* where to put the wedges and *how* to get there. The camera angle wasn't all that clear on the detail. Godd vid 'tho, useful.
Hi stihl, just curious, is that hinge cut at the same level as the release cut? if so could you please explain the thinking behind this.
Do you hammer the wedges again after the final cut is made to force the tree over?
No if you've positioned them correctly then once the final cut is made they will act as a fulcrum to guide the tree in the direction you want it to go. They are just there to help insure you hit your target zone, not to help bring it down.
I cut timber for a living year ago, and I could fell a tree just about anywhere you wanted with a simple notch. I don't understand the need for a "face cut". I had never seen one until just recently on another FB video, but the time to do that sure would have slowed me down and cut the amount of timber I could get out in a day.
Dale Little It's more for trees NOT in a Forrest that may have sidelean and need some persuasion 😁
@@markchisholm1181 do you think all trees in the forest are all perfectly plumb?
The standard Stihl helmet system has some real disadvantages. Would you kindly post the Stihl part number for the helmet system you were using when this video was recorded?
Timberwright Svs It's the Arborist version.
I dont understand how this method put any lean into the tree at all, how could the wedges do any lifting when the back wasnt yet cut? Wouldn't it make more sense to do the back cut first, wedge it, then notch the front to the hinge?
I was told earlier not to start cutting in with the tip to avoid kickback..
number one rule you forgot when beginners are felling "don't be a dope, use a rope". that is if there is any weight or lean that you are unsure you might not be able to get to or over Centre (plum). no corner store nylon, and have it at least 2 thirds of the way up around a main trunk or leader. if the tree is dead have the rope go over a main crotch down the back side and tie at the base above the notch so you pull along the trunk.
Could have done without all the noise (music?), but good tips nonetheless. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for a thorough video on a dangerous activity. I really appreciate it and enjoyed learning from you.
Great tip about looking up & having an escape route. Take the time to clear a way where you won't trip over anything& keep looking up for potential " widow makers".
Mike tell me what you think about my video th-cam.com/video/p1N6RZ_EbvA/w-d-xo.html
Is your father Steve? From Jackson? He was teaching us at Pequet hatchery yesterday on chainsaw safety. Really knows his stuff!
I knew there was trouble the moment I saw the thumbnail image....Forks, WA..self proclaimed logging capital of the world.
Dan Strayer face cut is a joke. Why even try it’s just a back cut at that point
bro how do you feel about pike poles?
Very good video Mister Mark! My dad was a faller & logger in ' the good ol days' & taught me as your video represents. Your video is good & concise! What some of the jackasses seemed to miss is the fact that u have >1M views.😅.. AND the tree fell where u wanted & expected due to your professional knowledge. 😎
Mark, I assume you can’t have all conditions perfect so what if you don’t have an escape route ie blocked by a fence?
I have never seen this method, i can’t believe it worked
I came to read the "hater" comments, and I do not leave disappointed. It's interesting how EVERYBODY is a damn "expert" and been felling (and it's FELLING, not "falling") trees for 200+ years and looked in "HUNDREDS of Stihl manuals" (one guy actually said that) and on and on and on, but yet nobody else is "expert" enough to post up a video of their own. These videos produce some of the finest Monday morning, armchair QBs available. Look, I have my opinions about this guy's technique too and in my humble opinion, he did a few things wrong. Having said that, he addressed the most important thing (safety) 1st and throughout the video, and eventually felled the tree effectively and safely. Anyone heard of "more than one way to skin a cat?"
Albert Ledesma people who actually work in the woods call it falling, and they don't really give a shit what the politically correct term is.
Albert Ledesma k
Wooooohhhhh.. u must have a tree up ur ass
@@R0CCOTACO I think it is a USA/U.K. difference.For some reason people who cut down trees in Britain are called tree-fellers which gives rise to an Irish joke.
THERE'S MORE THAN 1 WAY TO SKIN A CAT ! ?
Top cut first, and way too steep? Maybe, maybe not. 27 yrs of doing the bottom cut first, and then, a top cut that is not as steep, has worked on thousands for me.
Amen brother, my thoughts exactly... doing it for 30 years!
Hi.. I'm Narta from Indonesia, I'm also a woodcutter but the tree in Indonesia is small, the tree I cut is the sengon tree. Are there sengon trees in your area? 🙏
Keep safe to your work brother ❤️👍👍
Mark your awesome safety 1st
Should have included a stump view at the end
With an aerial view. 😂
Hi guys, sorry I didn't see all of these comments. I should check it here regularly.
"Why was the face cut shallow?" It doesn't have to be. Depends on many things. A general rule is deep enough to make it 80% of total width. That tends to be less than 1/3.
If you watch the many tree-felling videos on TH-cam I think you'll find that making a hinge cut in no way guarantees the tree will fall in the direction of the cut. It all depends on the tree's balance or "lean" which can be difficult to determine.
Not if your experienced. Its called "reading" the tree, it's lean, side with most upper weight, and hanging/long branches.
Well if it works it works just may not be the safest way but there are risks no matter what precautions you take.
Old Video I know but does Stihl make that helmet with the plastic eye shield? All I see is screens now.
That's the way I learned how to fell a tree also. It's the best way and the safest way. And if you take a class through and insurance company they'll teach you and demonstrate felling a tree exactly like that also. The only minor difference I see is when you made your plunge cut, you leave a thicker hinge than I do and I cut the the back of the tree last which gives me more control over when the tree releases. Thank you for sharing!
The manliest video ever made. Thanks for the tips.
Is it okay to just ring around the rosie one - watch which way it goes and run the other way, just once for old time's sake? If for nothing else but to preserve the memory of the long departed big dummy, Sir Darren?
What goes into the decision for the angle on the face cut? I’ve seen a few do the 70 degree method but often it’s far less from what I’ve seen anyways. Also the bore cut is to reduce Barber chairs in leaning trees correct? The face cut in this video just seemed much wider then what I see usually.
Still waiting for a left-handed chainsaw. The amount of cuts in my safety trouser is enormous.
***** are you left handed and used the normal Stihl chainsaw? .. i can not think of anything that will make your post make sense to me.. but .. be easy.
if u are right handed, then please do no longer comment in my section... i only speak to left handed ones, i have no clue, why you would poist something here to discuss anything, thanks, bye. have a good day @SekfReliance1015;)
I'm left handed and don't have any issue using any saw
I'm a lefty and I use a regular saw just fine
Mats Granqvist just fine? .. don´t tell me that in all the time you never did cut into your safety trousers! ;) .. tell the truth
Handling a right hand chainsaw MUST result in - you cutting yourself in the leg; everything else is a myth, i tend to post. ;)
Awesome in depth, step by step video Mark!! Well done!!! Didn't seem like your first face cut, had much of a slant to it, but it worked. Plus I always thought wedges would be used more on an angle in the back? First time I've ever seen a full tree like this cut down. Thanks again so much👍.
Hey Mark nice presentation broe, give me some job um here in SA
When do you use the jack?
Excellent video, thanks.
I could be wrong but the tree should fall opposite of the wedges. Right?
Nice video. Was wondering about the depth of the face cut. It was pretty shallow. My face cuts tend to be deeper 1/4 or so of diameter. Did you keep it shallow because of the bore cut?
Wayne Schlotfeldt Just need to get to 80% of diameter for most.
An Arborist and champion high climber maybe......
but definitely NOT a timber faller.
exactly
What exactly is wrong with what he does here?
ali ray
Nothing, I am yet to see a felling video without an obligatory ‘he doesn’t know what he’s doing’ comment. You get the same if you’re fixing a car
@@robertwertheimer21 I cut 60 a day give or take 10, 6 days a week, so take it from there buddy.
Lot of experts. I see
thank you so much i just finished cutting a huge tree 🎄 in my front yard and i was able to make it fall right where i wanted, thank you for your instructions. i was given an estimate of 1500$ to do it, again thank you so much
Friend, as it is called that model STIHL helmet, you can buy online, thanks ....
Didn't even yell "timber"
I've got about 16 or so tall balsam & spruce trees (all softwoods) around my camp in northern Vermont that I am constantly worried will fall on the camp, either by being uprooted (shallow root systems), or internal & unseen insect damage that weaken the tree, and they snap & blow over. The problem is that my camp is on government property, and they only will allow me to cut what they decide, and only from October first to April first (to protect the habitat of some rare bat - go figure!). It is not a job I would ever attempt, and the trees lean towards the camp and wood sheds I have. To further complicate the issue, no machinery can be used, so a professional tree feller is needed. Any ideas?
Cut them down yet? Tie a rope up in the tree as high as you can get reasonably. Hook up a come along to the rope in the direction you want the tree to go, hook to another tree or solid object farther away than the tree is tall. Tighten the rope with the come along just enough to take the slack out. Cut up the stump like in this video except you don't need to bore cut. Just cut straight in from the back. Setup a hinge and pull the tree over with a come along. If the lean isn't too bad likely you can just wedge them over.
@@wolley2012 I hired a professional. Many trees down - not one on the camp or wood sheds. How they did it is beyond me. I guess they climb and cut as well. Much relief for me. However, since the camp is on government property, I have to go by their dictates. There are still more trees that could potentially fall on the camp, but they were not ones that the government allowed for cutting. Thanks for the tip, but given the density of trees, I think there would not be enough clearance to allow a tree to totally drop, without getting wedged in other standing trees.
Never seen it done that way.
Definitely different.
Helped me just today. Thanks.
Hey i have a quick question. How do u go at cleaning tour saws. How do you get that wood dust and oil off of there?
I like how the drone camera can see the field camera and vice versa
i have a question my grandpa is a tree cutter he doesn't know how to use ear plugs is there a way to teach him how to use them while cutting a tree down? i worry he may loose his hearing
hi Mark great stuff! where would I be able to find the gear you guys use? PPE etc. I would love that helmet and eye protection you have, looks comfy!! Thanks-Bill Newbury, NH
Bill Bill, any STIHL dealer can get the Arborist helmet I use. It is very comfy and sturdy.
My strategy, first and foremost, is to Google local tree companies and choose one to come out and cut down/trim any problem tree.
Its 12am, I don't even own a chainsaw.