@@ogasama6028 Those are the charger's line/input numbers. Usually lots of flexibility there. What matters most is the output that's going in to the device you're charging. Those numbers are important.
❤ an animation of voltage and how current is actually drawn not pushed would have been helpful. This video solves biggest question I had about current…amperage and you helped solve it . Thanks a million
Great explanation. This is why I keep all old power supplies. I put each in a plastic bag labeled (in large letters) with the voltage, rated amperage, and polarity. I've been able to use at least a dozen of these power supplies to replace defective or lost ones. I've also used a couple after replacing the connector to match a device. Finally, note that some power supplies are Alternating Current (AC) rather than the more common Direct Current (DC). I also label this on the bag. The bag serves to provide a surface for the large letters and to wrangle the cord or cords.
I am a college music professor looking to teach this subject in class and you explained it perfectly. I’ve been searching for an explanation like this for a long time. Thank you!
6:17 That "center negative" or "center positive" polarity diagram for barrel connectors was so helpful! I looked at the brick part of the adapter and it was right there! In plain sight!! Many thanks!
Well done. My Elmer who coached me for my general license presented voltage and amperage in virtually the same fashion. He has been a silent key for nearly 30 years but listening to you brought back my memories of him. It is odd that something so simple confuses so many people. I now find myself eager to watch more of your videos. 73's
Also important is to plug the power supply into the device first and then into the wall outlet to avoid a surge that could damage your device. When your done unplug the power supply from the wall outlet and then unplug from the device being used.
I have to disagree with that. Power supplies, whether linear or switching contain reactive elements (coils and capacitors). When the power supply first turns on, those devices go through a transient period while they reach a steady state. It is during that transient period that anything bad could happen such as inductive voltage spikes that could potentially damage a device. Likewise, when the device loses power, it again goes from a steady state to a transient state while the reactive devices discharge. Once it has reached a steady state, it will regulate the voltage normally. The WORST that could happen while it is running steady state is that the device attempts to draw to much instantaneous power as might happen during the transient while the device is first plugged in. When that happens, the output capacitor buffering the voltage (present on any kind of related power supply) will be drained too quickly causing drop in voltage -- if the power supply isn't designed to be able to handle the power. A drop in voltage might disrupt the device for a moment; but, it will not damage the device the way that a voltage spike could. So in theory, to be as safe as possible, you should always plug the power supply in first and then plug the device into the power supply once it has reached steady state. Likewise, disconnect the device and then unplug the power supply so that it is not subject to any during shutdown transients. In reality, none of this should be important. A well engineered power supply should be designed to effectively filter the transients or to inhibit voltage output until the transients have subsided. That is why some higher power supplies with large active components may take take a few seconds to power on. When they do, you will hear the click of a relay enabling the power output. That relay is timed based on the length of time that the circuit transient needs to subside. So as long as you purchase power supplies from reputable brands, you shouldn't have any trouble. After all, what would happen during a power glitch? Your power supply and device would have to through power down and then power up transients. If you buy a cheap chinesium power supply from EBay, the engineers might not have spent enough time designing around the transients.
Jumble of B.S. I have been working in electronics for over 50 years. Worked on everything from radar, ICP, GCMS,ICPMS and have seen many devices powered by the beloved WALL WART destroyed by not proper plug in sequence. But this is what you can expect form a theory guy who has never worked in the real world. I guess I was not specific enough ! Have you ever seen a circuit board loaded with CMOS chips get destroyed by static electricity. Switching power supplies cannot handle transient spikes. It may be better now but in the 80s and 90s. We had to replace 5 power supplies in GCMS units because of power surge. Go online and see all of the power line conditioners on the market as well as C.V.T. units for 120, 220 and 440 volt three phase ! Equipment costing 100k or more with power supplies from CHINA that are amazing if the last 5 years !@@timharig
I just watched this video and would like to add that if you are reading the specs directly off the charger, make sure to take notice of whether it is rated AC or DC output. Make sure the charger and the device are the same type.
2:11 I was coerced into subscribing. He was answering questions I didn’t know I wanted to know the answers to. Now I know them both. I think he put knowledge in my brain before I could decide if I wanted it in there 😂
Excellent. Only just seen this video. Very clearly explained, and best explanation I've seen. Can't understand why other videos have to complicate things.
At the risk of confusing things further, it might help some people with an analogy to demystify what voltage and current (amps) are. The analogy isn't perfect, but helpful in some situations. The analogy is with water in pipes and hoses. Voltage is analogous to water pressure (PSI or Pascals). Current is analogous to flow of water (gallons per minute or liters per minute). The computer is analogous to an "appliance," such as a lawn sprinkler, that you attach to a faucet with a garden hose. And, the power supply is analogous to the faucet connected to the garden hose, limiting the flow of water (current) that goes to the sprinkler. That's why the water pressure (voltage) has to match what the lawn sprinkler can handle. If the water pressure is extremely high, then it might blow out the sprinkler, damaging it. If the water pressure is lower than the sprinkler is designed for, then the sprinkler doesn't operate correctly, dribbling water out and probably not rotating as designed. The results are similar if the flow of water supplied is less than what the sprinkler needs and is designed for.
I was on my computer and looking for an answer for this subject, you explained it simple and easy to understand that i had togot my phone to like, subscribe and comment on the video. Thank you soo much. 🙏
My wife brought home a Samsung Freestyle Projector… from her clients trash! (Worth about $300). It didn’t work but I noticed it had an 9v Apple charger with it. I bought the correct Samsung 20v charger and it works like a champ. Knowledge is power… or in this case.. money!
Thank you do much for the refresher. It's been a while since my tinkering days of yore, and I needed to confirm a variable output on a buck box. Since W (P) is drawn, the equations imply that A (I) are drawn as well. But as my grandfather said, measure twice, cut once.
Great information. Thank you. This is why TH-cam can be such a powerful learning aid, but it does not work without the support of professional like you.
Good tip on the polarity. Thanks for all this info. I admit that I only skimmed this video looking to answer my primary question, but am wondering if AC vs DC is discussed, sometimes I see "switching."
Thanks, great explanation! clear & comprehensive. Question though, about 6:15 into your video you delve into polarity. What is the standard? center positive or negative & why would a vendor not use the standard, other than sheer hubris?
You are definitely the best at explaining it all 100%. Now I have a e scooter needs 54.6v but I only can get a 54.5v. I thinking have the answer but can you tell me yes or no if I should be ok to use this, the parameters are the same.
You can use a voltage reasonably close to the original. An insufficient voltage will be rejected at the gate so to speak. The voltage is regulated internally regardless of the input voltage - within limits. So e.g. a 17v or 19v input will be fine in lieu of an 18v supply.
This was so helpful! I went through a bunch of videos but couldn't make it past rhe 5 minute mark. I just wanted ti know if i can use my laptop charger to charge my phone. Thank you 🙏🙏
I agree that your explanation is absolutely correct. However, product descriptions of my mouse device, which is rechargeable, said that the output current of the charging adapter cannot be higher than 500mA. What do you think about this?
I could see a device designed that way for some reason. Seems like a bad design, but that's why I harp so hard on it being dependent on the quality of the devices involved.
@@hanif6313 If it's labelled that it can't be connected to something over 500mA (which I've never heard of, by the way), then that's what I'd do. USB 2 ports on laptops are supposed to be 500ma, but I believe that changed with USB 3. I would really double check that the mouse really has that restriction.
@@askleonotenboom It's strange to me too. Maybe because it's a Chinese product, the translation wasn't done correctly or there's some ambiguity in the text. The text is 'The output current of the charging power adapter cannot be higher than 500mA.' Anyway, thank you for the guidance you provided
Sure you can use a charger with the same voltage and different amperage rating, it will charge at a different rate, but it will still charge. What is voltage, what is current? They actually go together, it might be what’s stamped on the device, but it’s the thing that is being charged that determines the current voltage relationship. You put a load on the battery and current will flow based upon the resistance within the device you are charging, but it’s the voltage that matters and determines how much current will flow. So as long as you don’t exceed the voltage rating for the device, only the current based upon the internal resistance will flow.
If you are referring to a USB-x 5V powered device then the actual voltage from the power supply should be 5.1V-5.25V. That is to account for the voltage drop by the cord between the power supply and the device.
I charged a 12V hand drill battery with a 12v car battery charger and it went into meltdown...and ignition. I'm sure the explosion was coming. So was my new charger but I needed one fast charge in the mean time but I'm just putting this out there
idunno man, hand drill and a car work different by themselves, it may have worked at first, then something happened when you overdo it.. or maybe it the amps.
A car battery actually has a nominal charge of 12.6V. The alternator on your car generates 13V-14V. Some car battery chargers use more voltage than that for faster charging. Meanwhile, "20V" drill battery's are actually 18V generated from 5×3.6V lithium cells. The bottom line is that you a actually need to look at the actually voltage specifications four for device and not the device name.
@@timharig I had ordered the correct charger. It came in the post a few days after the catastrophe. I incidentally used a car battery charger to give a boost to a 14 volt drill battery but it didn't seem to overheat. The battery was possibly on the way out. Technology was advancing faster and 14volt stuff wasn't around long so I didn't care.
Oops....... the specified voltage on a transformer is the correct voltage when the current being drawn is at the specified maximum of the transformer. If you are using a device which requires 5V 1amp and you use a transformer which can supply 5V 2amp, then the actual output voltage applied to the device will be greater (significantly) than the specified 5V. Case in point: My laptop requires 5V 1amp. When using any 5V 2amp transformer, my laptop charging goes completely haywire! After changing to a 5V 1amp charger the laptop charging is exactly as it should be. I've been using the 5V 1amp charger for two years now and my laptop with the 5V 1amp charger has not missed a beat!
"a transformer which can supply 5V 2amp, then the actual output voltage applied to the device will be greater (significantly) than the specified 5V." This is absolutely false. It should produce 5V regardless. Something else is going on.
If it’s lithium ion that you are charging I thought it shortens the life of a battery the higher the amperage charger you use. I’ve had the notion that when charging a lithium battery the slower the charge the longer the overall life of the battery. Is any of this true. Thanks! I appreciate this video!
Can you clarify on frequency for different countries for charging and or using equipment between 50 and 60 hertz. Also can you charge Alkaline batteries and NiCad on the same chargers. I have seen equipment that fried because it was 60 hertz and plugged into a 50 hertz. Hope to hear your comments, or anyone else.
50/60 falls into the same bucket as 120/220 - if the charger can handle it automatically, great, otherwise DO NOT try to use one where you have a charger for the other. I don't believe you can recharger alkaline, or recharge them same as NiCad, but I could be wrong.
@@askleonotenboom I am not sure on the batteries but I have heard they recharge on a different frequency! I too am not sure. I contracted for a company that installed several electronics and when they turned them onto a 50 hertz 220 they lost everything. LOL It was not us because we knew it would not work. I could tell you some horror stories about things like this but I would be here all night. Thanks and you did a great video.
How about adapters/chargers that output multiple voltage? For example my Macbook air adapter gives 5V-9V-15V-20V at different amp, is it OK to use it for devices with small battery of say 200-300mah max (with the producer stating on the device Input: 5V-400mah max, my Xiaomi Mi band 8 for example)?
USB-C has a data protocol that gives it the ability to negotiate the voltage for faster charging. If you plug a dumb device into it, it will default to 5V. In order to get the higher voltages, you will need a smart device to request them. Smart devices will not request higher voltages than they can handle. So you can plug the fast charger into a 5V only device so long as the power supply has a 5V amp rating higher than the device plugged into it.
Thank you for your video. I am currently looking for a longer barrel cable to connect between my Sony NPF battery plate and an LED light. The light requires 20v 6amps (which the batteries can provide), but so far the only cables I've seen can handle the voltage, but state that the amps should be no more than 3. I take it this will cause problems/damage the cable the cable - or not even work?
This is for devices like: say laptops fans any device requiring DC Voltage IN to power the device. Great explanation BTW Amps is drawn not pushed. BUT?????? What about charging batteries??? I have a 12 9A battery the battery is pushing 12v 9A output to a device, so in battery chargers the charger is PUSHING the AMPS into the battery correct?? So the original charger is 1A output. What would happen with a charger that is pushing 2A????????????????????????????????
I have a quick question if you could answer. What if a charging block is rated at an amperage amount that is higher than the power providing source? For example, rating of power supply is 32amps but the power being supplied is rated 24amps both have 240V. This is specific to my level 2 EV charging situation.
Hello , i have a question regarding one of your videos. The question is : If i connect the drill Charger directly to the drill without charger (The charger 12 and the drill 12v) The drill will work normal, as if it had a battery? Thank you!
1. The Question: The video starts with a question about using a different power charger for a netbook. The original charger specs are 19V and 1.58A, but a replacement is available with 19V and 2.15A. 2. Voltage and Amperage Rules: The video clarifies that the voltage must match between the original and replacement charger, which is good in this case (both are 19V). The amperage provided by the power supply must be greater than or equal to the amperage required by the device. The new charger provides 2.15A, exceeding the device's 1.58A requirement, so it should work. 3. Amperage is Drawn, Not Pushed: The video emphasizes that amperage is drawn by the device, not pushed by the power supply. The device will only use the amount of amperage it needs, even if the power supply can provide more. This means a power supply with a higher amperage rating than the device requires is perfectly fine. 4. Polarity Matters: The polarity (positive and negative wires) must match between the power supply and the device. In many cases, the polarity is standardized, but there are exceptions, especially with non-standard connectors like barrel connectors. It's essential to check the polarity markings on the power supply and the device to ensure a match. 5. Voltage Tolerance: The video acknowledges that some devices can tolerate a small variation in voltage. However, it emphasizes that the ideal solution is to use a power supply with the exact same voltage as the original. Deviating too much from the required voltage could damage the device. 6. Amperage and Device Functionality: If the power supply provides less amperage than the device needs, it may work slowly, not work at all, or even damage the device. It's always best to ensure the power supply provides at least as much amperage as the device requires. 7. Polarity in Modern Connectors: For many modern connectors, such as USB, polarity is standardized, so there is no need to worry about it. 8. Non-Standard Connectors and Polarity: The video warns about non-standard connectors, like barrel connectors, where the polarity can vary. It's crucial to check the polarity markings on both the power supply and the device to ensure compatibility. 9. Input Voltage and Power Supplies: The video explains that most modern power supplies can handle a wide range of input voltages (110-240 volts) and automatically switch between different power systems. It's important to check the input voltage range printed on the power supply and use it within the specified limits to avoid damage. 10. Summary: The video concludes by emphasizing that the most important factor when choosing a power supply is to match the voltage with the device and ensure the power supply provides at least as much amperage as the device requires. The amperage is drawn by the device and should not be a cause for concern as long as the power supply provides enough.
If the power supply has higher amperage than required by the device, would the power supply heat up? Eg that example you have with 100A power supply and 0.5A device, it won't damage the device but would it heat up and become e a fire hazard for the power supply (eg an adaptor)?
My laptop uses a 19.5V 11.8A power supply, I used my friend's 20V 7.5A power supply and it works fine and I want it because its lighter to carry to just do basic everyday tasks. Is that okay?
There's no way for me to know. It depends on the hardware and it's tolerance for not getting things exactly right. This is covered in the video and companion article.
Afternoon, Sir. Was recently gifted a portable record player from Japan. The *Anabas GP-N3R.* And being a ‘beginner’ (at best) when it comes to all things all things electronics, I had no clue that I could not use the same 8V adaptor it came with here in Canada. So without taking up to much of your time & if you don’t mind me asking, might you know what I could purchase as a replacement for it that will suffice? Thanks kindly for your time. A lovely day to you & yours. *Now subscribed.* Cheers!!!*
Depends on the situation, but yes, generally. That's why the cables to your car battery are so thick. Still 12 volts, but when starting the car the draw is many, many amps.
How can I tell what the polarity is on a device? neither the old power supply or the device (In this case a Elliptical) has no markings. And since power supply is dead no way to check polarity. If I was to put batteries in device could I check polarity of device by measuring the barrel of the device? It seems logical but I don't want to screw it up LOL. Thank you for a great clear informative video :)
I make a lot of USB DIY for myself and I decided to measure polarity more than once and maybe test it with a disposable light thing and a not so important power bank. I can lose some, but the expensive device is sad to kill and it happens quickly.
Volts and amps combine to confuse. Understanding how they work can help clear it up.
Thanks Leo!!
Thank you, Sir.
Respect from India
About wiggle room, Can I use a 250V 10A charger as a replacement for 220V 5A charger?
@@ogasama6028 Those are the charger's line/input numbers. Usually lots of flexibility there. What matters most is the output that's going in to the device you're charging. Those numbers are important.
One of the confusion questions we asked regarding choosing power connector
"Amperage is drawn, not pushed." That's the clearest explanation I have ever heard. Thank you!
Yes.. I never understood this… until now. Thanks Leo!
Same here 😀
By the way, Voltage is pushed. That's electricity bro 😂
Unlocked everything when I heard that
❤ an animation of voltage and how current is actually drawn not pushed would have been helpful. This video solves biggest question I had about current…amperage and you helped solve it . Thanks a million
"voltages must match and amperage must either match or exceed that required by the device" -- concise and practical, thank you!
I have 3 12v 1amps each how can connect them together to get 3amps total but 12v still ?
Great explanation. This is why I keep all old power supplies. I put each in a plastic bag labeled (in large letters) with the voltage, rated amperage, and polarity. I've been able to use at least a dozen of these power supplies to replace defective or lost ones. I've also used a couple after replacing the connector to match a device. Finally, note that some power supplies are Alternating Current (AC) rather than the more common Direct Current (DC). I also label this on the bag. The bag serves to provide a surface for the large letters and to wrangle the cord or cords.
I keep them too. You never know when you may need one.
I am a college music professor looking to teach this subject in class and you explained it perfectly. I’ve been searching for an explanation like this for a long time. Thank you!
6:17 That "center negative" or "center positive" polarity diagram for barrel connectors was so helpful! I looked at the brick part of the adapter and it was right there! In plain sight!! Many thanks!
Well done. My Elmer who coached me for my general license presented voltage and amperage in virtually the same fashion. He has been a silent key for nearly 30 years but listening to you brought back my memories of him. It is odd that something so simple confuses so many people. I now find myself eager to watch more of your videos. 73's
A lucid and to the point explanation. Loved it. Keep up the good work.
This is the best video I have ever seen explaining this is super simple terms. Thank you so much
Also important is to plug the power supply into the device first and then into the wall outlet to avoid a surge that could damage your device. When your done unplug the power supply from the wall outlet and then unplug from the device being used.
I have to disagree with that. Power supplies, whether linear or switching contain reactive elements (coils and capacitors). When the power supply first turns on, those devices go through a transient period while they reach a steady state. It is during that transient period that anything bad could happen such as inductive voltage spikes that could potentially damage a device. Likewise, when the device loses power, it again goes from a steady state to a transient state while the reactive devices discharge.
Once it has reached a steady state, it will regulate the voltage normally. The WORST that could happen while it is running steady state is that the device attempts to draw to much instantaneous power as might happen during the transient while the device is first plugged in. When that happens, the output capacitor buffering the voltage (present on any kind of related power supply) will be drained too quickly causing drop in voltage -- if the power supply isn't designed to be able to handle the power. A drop in voltage might disrupt the device for a moment; but, it will not damage the device the way that a voltage spike could.
So in theory, to be as safe as possible, you should always plug the power supply in first and then plug the device into the power supply once it has reached steady state. Likewise, disconnect the device and then unplug the power supply so that it is not subject to any during shutdown transients. In reality, none of this should be important. A well engineered power supply should be designed to effectively filter the transients or to inhibit voltage output until the transients have subsided.
That is why some higher power supplies with large active components may take take a few seconds to power on. When they do, you will hear the click of a relay enabling the power output. That relay is timed based on the length of time that the circuit transient needs to subside.
So as long as you purchase power supplies from reputable brands, you shouldn't have any trouble. After all, what would happen during a power glitch? Your power supply and device would have to through power down and then power up transients. If you buy a cheap chinesium power supply from EBay, the engineers might not have spent enough time designing around the transients.
Jumble of B.S. I have been working in electronics for over 50 years. Worked on everything from radar, ICP, GCMS,ICPMS and have seen many devices powered by the beloved WALL WART destroyed by not proper plug in sequence. But this is what you can expect form a theory guy who has never worked in the real world. I guess I was not specific enough ! Have you ever seen a circuit board loaded with CMOS chips get destroyed by static electricity. Switching power supplies cannot handle transient spikes. It may be better now but in the 80s and 90s. We had to replace 5 power supplies in GCMS units because of power surge. Go online and see all of the power line conditioners on the market as well as C.V.T. units for 120, 220 and 440 volt three phase ! Equipment costing 100k or more with power supplies from CHINA that are amazing if the last 5 years !@@timharig
Thank you, sir. Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication...!
This is by far the best explanation of this topic that I have found. Well done, and thanks.
He’s a joy to watch and listen to. Not bad looking either 😊. Thank you for sharing this video in such an easy to understand way ❤
Thank you!
I just watched this video and would like to add that if you are reading the specs directly off the charger, make sure to take notice of whether it is rated AC or DC output. Make sure the charger and the device are the same type.
That is very important to do. Some of these wal warts are hard to read.
Thank you for making this! This is exactly what I was looking for. Super helpful and well done.
2:11 I was coerced into subscribing. He was answering questions I didn’t know I wanted to know the answers to. Now I know them both. I think he put knowledge in my brain before I could decide if I wanted it in there 😂
This is so helpful and easy to remember! Maybe now I can trim down the pile of various old usb chargers I have lying around too.
Excellent. Only just seen this video. Very clearly explained, and best explanation I've seen. Can't understand why other videos have to complicate things.
At the risk of confusing things further, it might help some people with an analogy to demystify what voltage and current (amps) are. The analogy isn't perfect, but helpful in some situations. The analogy is with water in pipes and hoses. Voltage is analogous to water pressure (PSI or Pascals). Current is analogous to flow of water (gallons per minute or liters per minute). The computer is analogous to an "appliance," such as a lawn sprinkler, that you attach to a faucet with a garden hose. And, the power supply is analogous to the faucet connected to the garden hose, limiting the flow of water (current) that goes to the sprinkler. That's why the water pressure (voltage) has to match what the lawn sprinkler can handle. If the water pressure is extremely high, then it might blow out the sprinkler, damaging it. If the water pressure is lower than the sprinkler is designed for, then the sprinkler doesn't operate correctly, dribbling water out and probably not rotating as designed. The results are similar if the flow of water supplied is less than what the sprinkler needs and is designed for.
this analogy just explain the voltage part of the thing not amperage. And actually I believe you are referring to wats and not volts in this analogy.
I've had that explained to me and never made sense. I can't relate water to electricity. It don't always make sense to "everyone".
Thank you for educating me to this question that I've had forever.
Damn man, this is the clearest explanation I've ever heard in my life
I was on my computer and looking for an answer for this subject, you explained it simple and easy to understand that i had togot my phone to like, subscribe and comment on the video. Thank you soo much. 🙏
My wife brought home a Samsung Freestyle Projector… from her clients trash! (Worth about $300). It didn’t work but I noticed it had an 9v Apple charger with it. I bought the correct Samsung 20v charger and it works like a champ. Knowledge is power… or in this case.. money!
This sounds contrary to what was just presented. The 20v should have burned up the projector? This needs explanation.
Thank you do much for the refresher. It's been a while since my tinkering days of yore, and I needed to confirm a variable output on a buck box. Since W (P) is drawn, the equations imply that A (I) are drawn as well. But as my grandfather said, measure twice, cut once.
Thanks for your time I've been working in electronics for a long time. And this is the first clarification I've really heard
Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. Very helpful
Great information. Thank you. This is why TH-cam can be such a powerful learning aid, but it does not work without the support of professional like you.
FINALLY I UNDERSTOOD,THANK YOU! IT CANNOT BE CLEARER.
short and simple and elegant explanation , thank you
A question that was lingering a long time became a useful piece of knowledge that I will pass on alot I presume.
Thanks
hey thanks leo, i always had this doubt about the amperage, thank you
Brlliant explanation of amerage: The amount the device "pulls"!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and time 😊
I watch a few different IT guys. Each of them are different. But you Leo.......... You really take us to class..
sir...the way you explain is so great...you keep repeating the importance point..which it had deep eatching deep in my memory..thank
Good tip on the polarity. Thanks for all this info. I admit that I only skimmed this video looking to answer my primary question, but am wondering if AC vs DC is discussed, sometimes I see "switching."
Thanks, great explanation! clear & comprehensive. Question though, about 6:15 into your video you delve into polarity. What is the standard? center positive or negative & why would a vendor not use the standard, other than sheer hubris?
In my experience there's no real standard. Center positive seems the most common, BUT it's not something you can count on.
This was so easy to understand. Thank you.
You are definitely the best at explaining it all 100%.
Now I have a e scooter needs 54.6v but I only can get a 54.5v. I thinking have the answer but can you tell me yes or no if I should be ok to use this, the parameters are the same.
As outlined in the video there's no way for me to know. Maybe? Depends on the quality of the devices involved.
Thanks Leo! I learned something again. Always was confused about the amperage thing. JimE
Thanks, man. I learned a lot with this video. You are the best!
You can use a voltage reasonably close to the original. An insufficient voltage will be rejected at the gate so to speak. The voltage is regulated internally regardless of the input voltage - within limits. So e.g. a 17v or 19v input will be fine in lieu of an 18v supply.
needed to refresh my memory, thanks Leo :) quick and easy
I almost bought a new charging brick with a lower amp rating for one of my devices. Thanks for the clear explanation.
This was so helpful! I went through a bunch of videos but couldn't make it past rhe 5 minute mark. I just wanted ti know if i can use my laptop charger to charge my phone. Thank you 🙏🙏
Thank you. Great information about amperage 😊
Thank you sir, your explanation is very clear and easy to understand. It really helps.
I agree that your explanation is absolutely correct. However, product descriptions of my mouse device, which is rechargeable, said that the output current of the charging adapter cannot be higher than 500mA.
What do you think about this?
I could see a device designed that way for some reason. Seems like a bad design, but that's why I harp so hard on it being dependent on the quality of the devices involved.
@@askleonotenboom So, I have to find an adapter with 5V and 500mA, right? Does a USB connector of my laptop provide exactly 500mA?
@@hanif6313 If it's labelled that it can't be connected to something over 500mA (which I've never heard of, by the way), then that's what I'd do. USB 2 ports on laptops are supposed to be 500ma, but I believe that changed with USB 3. I would really double check that the mouse really has that restriction.
@@askleonotenboom It's strange to me too. Maybe because it's a Chinese product, the translation wasn't done correctly or there's some ambiguity in the text. The text is 'The output current of the charging power adapter cannot be higher than 500mA.' Anyway, thank you for the guidance you provided
Thank you sir, you have explained this so well. I have taken this in, very helpful.
I needed to know this, as im getting some Vtech consoles and Vtech power adapters are INSANELY hard to find or expensive.
I could like the video 10000000 times if possible... you are the best!
Sure you can use a charger with the same voltage and different amperage rating, it will charge at a different rate, but it will still charge.
What is voltage, what is current? They actually go together, it might be what’s stamped on the device, but it’s the thing that is being charged that determines the current voltage relationship. You put a load on the battery and current will flow based upon the resistance within the device you are charging, but it’s the voltage that matters and determines how much current will flow. So as long as you don’t exceed the voltage rating for the device, only the current based upon the internal resistance will flow.
Thank you...this has made what I have learned even clearer. Very nice video.
Thanks 🙏
Is 5.2 V output instead of 5V too much? Or does it fall within the "small" difference? Thanks
No way to know. It depends on the specific device.
@@askleonotenboom I see. Thank you 🙏
If you are referring to a USB-x 5V powered device then the actual voltage from the power supply should be 5.1V-5.25V. That is to account for the voltage drop by the cord between the power supply and the device.
I fucking love this video. It answers the question so clearly I'm unlikely to ever need to watch it again. But I will be subscribing. Thank you!
I charged a 12V hand drill battery with a 12v car battery charger and it went into meltdown...and ignition. I'm sure the explosion was coming. So was my new charger but I needed one fast charge in the mean time but I'm just putting this out there
idunno man, hand drill and a car work different by themselves, it may have worked at first, then something happened when you overdo it.. or maybe it the amps.
A car battery actually has a nominal charge of 12.6V. The alternator on your car generates 13V-14V. Some car battery chargers use more voltage than that for faster charging.
Meanwhile, "20V" drill battery's are actually 18V generated from 5×3.6V lithium cells.
The bottom line is that you a actually need to look at the actually voltage specifications four for device and not the device name.
@@timharig I had ordered the correct charger. It came in the post a few days after the catastrophe. I incidentally used a car battery charger to give a boost to a 14 volt drill battery but it didn't seem to overheat. The battery was possibly on the way out. Technology was advancing faster and 14volt stuff wasn't around long so I didn't care.
Wowwww, i love this man explaining things.❤❤❤❤
Thank Sir Leo, You explain everything i want want to hear.
Super Helpful. Thank You Very Much sir. ❤
Thanks for nice and clear explanation. My confusion is solved. Regards.
Oops....... the specified voltage on a transformer is the correct voltage when the current being drawn is at the specified maximum of the transformer. If you are using a device which requires 5V 1amp and you use a transformer which can supply 5V 2amp, then the actual output voltage applied to the device will be greater (significantly) than the specified 5V.
Case in point: My laptop requires 5V 1amp. When using any 5V 2amp transformer, my laptop charging goes completely haywire! After changing to a 5V 1amp charger the laptop charging is exactly as it should be. I've been using the 5V 1amp charger for two years now and my laptop with the 5V 1amp charger has not missed a beat!
"a transformer which can supply 5V 2amp, then the actual output voltage applied to the device will be greater (significantly) than the specified 5V." This is absolutely false. It should produce 5V regardless. Something else is going on.
Thank you so much this was really easy to understand keep up the good work🤘😎
If it’s lithium ion that you are charging I thought it shortens the life of a battery the higher the amperage charger you use. I’ve had the notion that when charging a lithium battery the slower the charge the longer the overall life of the battery. Is any of this true. Thanks! I appreciate this video!
Can you clarify on frequency for different countries for charging and or using equipment between 50 and 60 hertz. Also can you charge Alkaline batteries and NiCad on the same chargers. I have seen equipment that fried because it was 60 hertz and plugged into a 50 hertz. Hope to hear your comments, or anyone else.
50/60 falls into the same bucket as 120/220 - if the charger can handle it automatically, great, otherwise DO NOT try to use one where you have a charger for the other. I don't believe you can recharger alkaline, or recharge them same as NiCad, but I could be wrong.
@@askleonotenboom I am not sure on the batteries but I have heard they recharge on a different frequency! I too am not sure. I contracted for a company that installed several electronics and when they turned them onto a 50 hertz 220 they lost everything. LOL It was not us because we knew it would not work. I could tell you some horror stories about things like this but I would be here all night. Thanks and you did a great video.
Thanks so much for this. Really succinct and easy to understand.
Thank you so much sir, I am grateful to you, with this I can finally finish a project, and solve a doubt I had for years.
Thanks Leo. Just the info I have been looking for.
You've explained very well!
Thanks, Leo! How do I find out the voltage and amps that my device require? Is there somewhere on my phone or laptop that indicates that?
The users manual should have it.
@@askleonotenboom My manual just says battery capacity is 4500mAh. No mention of voltage. I have a Samsung Galaxy S20FE. Thanks!
thank u! man this can get confusing. than you soo much! even here in 2022, this still helped me greatly
All questions answered. Thank you so much.
How about adapters/chargers that output multiple voltage? For example my Macbook air adapter gives 5V-9V-15V-20V at different amp, is it OK to use it for devices with small battery of say 200-300mah max (with the producer stating on the device Input: 5V-400mah max, my Xiaomi Mi band 8 for example)?
USB-C has a data protocol that gives it the ability to negotiate the voltage for faster charging. If you plug a dumb device into it, it will default to 5V. In order to get the higher voltages, you will need a smart device to request them. Smart devices will not request higher voltages than they can handle.
So you can plug the fast charger into a 5V only device so long as the power supply has a 5V amp rating higher than the device plugged into it.
Thanks 👏👏👏👏 Voltage Must Match 💥amps only drawn not pushed 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thank you for your explanation! Helped a lot.
Damn! This was spot on! Thank you
Thank you! Just bought digital clock that needed adaptor. It does not work on batteries. God Bless You!
Great explanation
Thank you for your video. I am currently looking for a longer barrel cable to connect between my Sony NPF battery plate and an LED light. The light requires 20v 6amps (which the batteries can provide), but so far the only cables I've seen can handle the voltage, but state that the amps should be no more than 3. I take it this will cause problems/damage the cable the cable - or not even work?
Thank you my case is 12. Volts 3.33 Amp the old one.. and the replacement is 12 volts but 5 Amp. God bless and kudos
This is for devices like: say laptops fans any device requiring DC Voltage IN to power the device. Great explanation BTW Amps is drawn not pushed. BUT?????? What about charging batteries??? I have a 12 9A battery the battery is pushing 12v 9A output to a device, so in battery chargers the charger is PUSHING the AMPS into the battery correct?? So the original charger is 1A output. What would happen with a charger that is pushing 2A????????????????????????????????
Amps are not pushed, only drawn. Period.
I have a quick question if you could answer. What if a charging block is rated at an amperage amount that is higher than the power providing source? For example, rating of power supply is 32amps but the power being supplied is rated 24amps both have 240V. This is specific to my level 2 EV charging situation.
Addressed in the video. As long as the power supply is rated higher than that needed by the device being charged, all is well.
Very well explained. Thank you sir.
This was super helpful and informative,thanks sir!
Hello , i have a question regarding one of your videos. The question is : If i connect the drill Charger directly to the drill without charger (The charger 12 and the drill 12v) The drill will work normal, as if it had a battery? Thank you!
No idea. Maybe? Probably? There's no way for me to know for sure, since it depends on the specific devices involved.
1. The Question: The video starts with a question about using a different power charger for a netbook. The original charger specs are 19V and 1.58A, but a replacement is available with 19V and 2.15A.
2. Voltage and Amperage Rules: The video clarifies that the voltage must match between the original and replacement charger, which is good in this case (both are 19V). The amperage provided by the power supply must be greater than or equal to the amperage required by the device. The new charger provides 2.15A, exceeding the device's 1.58A requirement, so it should work.
3. Amperage is Drawn, Not Pushed: The video emphasizes that amperage is drawn by the device, not pushed by the power supply. The device will only use the amount of amperage it needs, even if the power supply can provide more. This means a power supply with a higher amperage rating than the device requires is perfectly fine.
4. Polarity Matters: The polarity (positive and negative wires) must match between the power supply and the device. In many cases, the polarity is standardized, but there are exceptions, especially with non-standard connectors like barrel connectors. It's essential to check the polarity markings on the power supply and the device to ensure a match.
5. Voltage Tolerance: The video acknowledges that some devices can tolerate a small variation in voltage. However, it emphasizes that the ideal solution is to use a power supply with the exact same voltage as the original. Deviating too much from the required voltage could damage the device.
6. Amperage and Device Functionality: If the power supply provides less amperage than the device needs, it may work slowly, not work at all, or even damage the device. It's always best to ensure the power supply provides at least as much amperage as the device requires.
7. Polarity in Modern Connectors: For many modern connectors, such as USB, polarity is standardized, so there is no need to worry about it.
8. Non-Standard Connectors and Polarity: The video warns about non-standard connectors, like barrel connectors, where the polarity can vary. It's crucial to check the polarity markings on both the power supply and the device to ensure compatibility.
9. Input Voltage and Power Supplies: The video explains that most modern power supplies can handle a wide range of input voltages (110-240 volts) and automatically switch between different power systems. It's important to check the input voltage range printed on the power supply and use it within the specified limits to avoid damage.
10. Summary: The video concludes by emphasizing that the most important factor when choosing a power supply is to match the voltage with the device and ensure the power supply provides at least as much amperage as the device requires. The amperage is drawn by the device and should not be a cause for concern as long as the power supply provides enough.
AI generated?
@askleonotenboom Yes
Very good and helpful video👍👍👍❤️
Thank you, this was so helpful !
I have old toy charger, it's 3,6V and 500mA. Do I dare to use this to power 3,3 volt sensors?
No idea. Could be OK, could destroy the sensors.
@askleonotenboom very helpful. Thank you and goodbye.
If the power supply has higher amperage than required by the device, would the power supply heat up? Eg that example you have with 100A power supply and 0.5A device, it won't damage the device but would it heat up and become e a fire hazard for the power supply (eg an adaptor)?
Nope.
My laptop uses a 19.5V 11.8A power supply, I used my friend's 20V 7.5A power supply and it works fine and I want it because its lighter to carry to just do basic everyday tasks. Is that okay?
There's no way for me to know. It depends on the hardware and it's tolerance for not getting things exactly right. This is covered in the video and companion article.
Afternoon, Sir. Was recently gifted a portable record player from Japan. The *Anabas GP-N3R.* And being a ‘beginner’ (at best) when it comes to all things all things electronics, I had no clue that I could not use the same 8V adaptor it came with here in Canada. So without taking up to much of your time & if you don’t mind me asking, might you know what I could purchase as a replacement for it that will suffice? Thanks kindly for your time. A lovely day to you & yours. *Now subscribed.* Cheers!!!*
Great explanation and video.
Straight to the point.. excellent!..
Would higher amperage or current not affect cable size? Because higher current have thicker wires
Depends on the situation, but yes, generally. That's why the cables to your car battery are so thick. Still 12 volts, but when starting the car the draw is many, many amps.
How can I tell what the polarity is on a device? neither the old power supply or the device (In this case a Elliptical) has no markings. And since power supply is dead no way to check polarity. If I was to put batteries in device could I check polarity of device by measuring the barrel of the device? It seems logical but I don't want to screw it up LOL. Thank you for a great clear informative video :)
I make a lot of USB DIY for myself and I decided to measure polarity more than once and maybe test it with a disposable light thing and a not so important power bank. I can lose some, but the expensive device is sad to kill and it happens quickly.
Great explanation. Thank you!
Excellent clarification. I have a question. Can I use a power bank to power on the laptop without internal battery? Thank you.
Usually, yes.
Thanks this is such a good explanation!
Thank you, very informative