@@ogasama6028 Those are the charger's line/input numbers. Usually lots of flexibility there. What matters most is the output that's going in to the device you're charging. Those numbers are important.
I am a college music professor looking to teach this subject in class and you explained it perfectly. I’ve been searching for an explanation like this for a long time. Thank you!
6:17 That "center negative" or "center positive" polarity diagram for barrel connectors was so helpful! I looked at the brick part of the adapter and it was right there! In plain sight!! Many thanks!
Well done. My Elmer who coached me for my general license presented voltage and amperage in virtually the same fashion. He has been a silent key for nearly 30 years but listening to you brought back my memories of him. It is odd that something so simple confuses so many people. I now find myself eager to watch more of your videos. 73's
My wife brought home a Samsung Freestyle Projector… from her clients trash! (Worth about $300). It didn’t work but I noticed it had an 9v Apple charger with it. I bought the correct Samsung 20v charger and it works like a champ. Knowledge is power… or in this case.. money!
At the risk of confusing things further, it might help some people with an analogy to demystify what voltage and current (amps) are. The analogy isn't perfect, but helpful in some situations. The analogy is with water in pipes and hoses. Voltage is analogous to water pressure (PSI or Pascals). Current is analogous to flow of water (gallons per minute or liters per minute). The computer is analogous to an "appliance," such as a lawn sprinkler, that you attach to a faucet with a garden hose. And, the power supply is analogous to the faucet connected to the garden hose, limiting the flow of water (current) that goes to the sprinkler. That's why the water pressure (voltage) has to match what the lawn sprinkler can handle. If the water pressure is extremely high, then it might blow out the sprinkler, damaging it. If the water pressure is lower than the sprinkler is designed for, then the sprinkler doesn't operate correctly, dribbling water out and probably not rotating as designed. The results are similar if the flow of water supplied is less than what the sprinkler needs and is designed for.
Also important is to plug the power supply into the device first and then into the wall outlet to avoid a surge that could damage your device. When your done unplug the power supply from the wall outlet and then unplug from the device being used.
I have to disagree with that. Power supplies, whether linear or switching contain reactive elements (coils and capacitors). When the power supply first turns on, those devices go through a transient period while they reach a steady state. It is during that transient period that anything bad could happen such as inductive voltage spikes that could potentially damage a device. Likewise, when the device loses power, it again goes from a steady state to a transient state while the reactive devices discharge. Once it has reached a steady state, it will regulate the voltage normally. The WORST that could happen while it is running steady state is that the device attempts to draw to much instantaneous power as might happen during the transient while the device is first plugged in. When that happens, the output capacitor buffering the voltage (present on any kind of related power supply) will be drained too quickly causing drop in voltage -- if the power supply isn't designed to be able to handle the power. A drop in voltage might disrupt the device for a moment; but, it will not damage the device the way that a voltage spike could. So in theory, to be as safe as possible, you should always plug the power supply in first and then plug the device into the power supply once it has reached steady state. Likewise, disconnect the device and then unplug the power supply so that it is not subject to any during shutdown transients. In reality, none of this should be important. A well engineered power supply should be designed to effectively filter the transients or to inhibit voltage output until the transients have subsided. That is why some higher power supplies with large active components may take take a few seconds to power on. When they do, you will hear the click of a relay enabling the power output. That relay is timed based on the length of time that the circuit transient needs to subside. So as long as you purchase power supplies from reputable brands, you shouldn't have any trouble. After all, what would happen during a power glitch? Your power supply and device would have to through power down and then power up transients. If you buy a cheap chinesium power supply from EBay, the engineers might not have spent enough time designing around the transients.
Jumble of B.S. I have been working in electronics for over 50 years. Worked on everything from radar, ICP, GCMS,ICPMS and have seen many devices powered by the beloved WALL WART destroyed by not proper plug in sequence. But this is what you can expect form a theory guy who has never worked in the real world. I guess I was not specific enough ! Have you ever seen a circuit board loaded with CMOS chips get destroyed by static electricity. Switching power supplies cannot handle transient spikes. It may be better now but in the 80s and 90s. We had to replace 5 power supplies in GCMS units because of power surge. Go online and see all of the power line conditioners on the market as well as C.V.T. units for 120, 220 and 440 volt three phase ! Equipment costing 100k or more with power supplies from CHINA that are amazing if the last 5 years !@@timharig
Excellent. Only just seen this video. Very clearly explained, and best explanation I've seen. Can't understand why other videos have to complicate things.
Thank you do much for the refresher. It's been a while since my tinkering days of yore, and I needed to confirm a variable output on a buck box. Since W (P) is drawn, the equations imply that A (I) are drawn as well. But as my grandfather said, measure twice, cut once.
Great information. Thank you. This is why TH-cam can be such a powerful learning aid, but it does not work without the support of professional like you.
I was on my computer and looking for an answer for this subject, you explained it simple and easy to understand that i had togot my phone to like, subscribe and comment on the video. Thank you soo much. 🙏
Good tip on the polarity. Thanks for all this info. I admit that I only skimmed this video looking to answer my primary question, but am wondering if AC vs DC is discussed, sometimes I see "switching."
I just watched this video and would like to add that if you are reading the specs directly off the charger, make sure to take notice of whether it is rated AC or DC output. Make sure the charger and the device are the same type.
This was so helpful! I went through a bunch of videos but couldn't make it past rhe 5 minute mark. I just wanted ti know if i can use my laptop charger to charge my phone. Thank you 🙏🙏
If it’s lithium ion that you are charging I thought it shortens the life of a battery the higher the amperage charger you use. I’ve had the notion that when charging a lithium battery the slower the charge the longer the overall life of the battery. Is any of this true. Thanks! I appreciate this video!
Sure you can use a charger with the same voltage and different amperage rating, it will charge at a different rate, but it will still charge. What is voltage, what is current? They actually go together, it might be what’s stamped on the device, but it’s the thing that is being charged that determines the current voltage relationship. You put a load on the battery and current will flow based upon the resistance within the device you are charging, but it’s the voltage that matters and determines how much current will flow. So as long as you don’t exceed the voltage rating for the device, only the current based upon the internal resistance will flow.
Thanks, great explanation! clear & comprehensive. Question though, about 6:15 into your video you delve into polarity. What is the standard? center positive or negative & why would a vendor not use the standard, other than sheer hubris?
I make a lot of USB DIY for myself and I decided to measure polarity more than once and maybe test it with a disposable light thing and a not so important power bank. I can lose some, but the expensive device is sad to kill and it happens quickly.
If you are referring to a USB-x 5V powered device then the actual voltage from the power supply should be 5.1V-5.25V. That is to account for the voltage drop by the cord between the power supply and the device.
I have a quick question if you could answer. What if a charging block is rated at an amperage amount that is higher than the power providing source? For example, rating of power supply is 32amps but the power being supplied is rated 24amps both have 240V. This is specific to my level 2 EV charging situation.
Afternoon, Sir. Was recently gifted a portable record player from Japan. The *Anabas GP-N3R.* And being a ‘beginner’ (at best) when it comes to all things all things electronics, I had no clue that I could not use the same 8V adaptor it came with here in Canada. So without taking up to much of your time & if you don’t mind me asking, might you know what I could purchase as a replacement for it that will suffice? Thanks kindly for your time. A lovely day to you & yours. *Now subscribed.* Cheers!!!*
Oops....... the specified voltage on a transformer is the correct voltage when the current being drawn is at the specified maximum of the transformer. If you are using a device which requires 5V 1amp and you use a transformer which can supply 5V 2amp, then the actual output voltage applied to the device will be greater (significantly) than the specified 5V. Case in point: My laptop requires 5V 1amp. When using any 5V 2amp transformer, my laptop charging goes completely haywire! After changing to a 5V 1amp charger the laptop charging is exactly as it should be. I've been using the 5V 1amp charger for two years now and my laptop with the 5V 1amp charger has not missed a beat!
"a transformer which can supply 5V 2amp, then the actual output voltage applied to the device will be greater (significantly) than the specified 5V." This is absolutely false. It should produce 5V regardless. Something else is going on.
Thanks for clearing it up a bit. But I still am a bit confused. I am looking for a 9V and 2A charger. I found some that support 9V and 3A so by your explanation it's fine. But this exact same charger also supports 6V and 12V. So 3 different voltages. You can't tell the charger which one to use. Can I assume it just knows what to do?
No. It sounds like it might be a special purpose charger intended for specific devices. If you can't tell it what to use, I'd not trust it to use the right one.
Same problem here. I have a device that requires 5v/2a i have a Samsung super fast charger that reads 5v/3a; 9v/3a; etc... I don't know if it'll work or not for the device. You can't select voltage on it. Just a basic Samsung phone charger. I don't get it.
Depends on the situation, but yes, generally. That's why the cables to your car battery are so thick. Still 12 volts, but when starting the car the draw is many, many amps.
How can I tell what the polarity is on a device? neither the old power supply or the device (In this case a Elliptical) has no markings. And since power supply is dead no way to check polarity. If I was to put batteries in device could I check polarity of device by measuring the barrel of the device? It seems logical but I don't want to screw it up LOL. Thank you for a great clear informative video :)
1. The Question: The video starts with a question about using a different power charger for a netbook. The original charger specs are 19V and 1.58A, but a replacement is available with 19V and 2.15A. 2. Voltage and Amperage Rules: The video clarifies that the voltage must match between the original and replacement charger, which is good in this case (both are 19V). The amperage provided by the power supply must be greater than or equal to the amperage required by the device. The new charger provides 2.15A, exceeding the device's 1.58A requirement, so it should work. 3. Amperage is Drawn, Not Pushed: The video emphasizes that amperage is drawn by the device, not pushed by the power supply. The device will only use the amount of amperage it needs, even if the power supply can provide more. This means a power supply with a higher amperage rating than the device requires is perfectly fine. 4. Polarity Matters: The polarity (positive and negative wires) must match between the power supply and the device. In many cases, the polarity is standardized, but there are exceptions, especially with non-standard connectors like barrel connectors. It's essential to check the polarity markings on the power supply and the device to ensure a match. 5. Voltage Tolerance: The video acknowledges that some devices can tolerate a small variation in voltage. However, it emphasizes that the ideal solution is to use a power supply with the exact same voltage as the original. Deviating too much from the required voltage could damage the device. 6. Amperage and Device Functionality: If the power supply provides less amperage than the device needs, it may work slowly, not work at all, or even damage the device. It's always best to ensure the power supply provides at least as much amperage as the device requires. 7. Polarity in Modern Connectors: For many modern connectors, such as USB, polarity is standardized, so there is no need to worry about it. 8. Non-Standard Connectors and Polarity: The video warns about non-standard connectors, like barrel connectors, where the polarity can vary. It's crucial to check the polarity markings on both the power supply and the device to ensure compatibility. 9. Input Voltage and Power Supplies: The video explains that most modern power supplies can handle a wide range of input voltages (110-240 volts) and automatically switch between different power systems. It's important to check the input voltage range printed on the power supply and use it within the specified limits to avoid damage. 10. Summary: The video concludes by emphasizing that the most important factor when choosing a power supply is to match the voltage with the device and ensure the power supply provides at least as much amperage as the device requires. The amperage is drawn by the device and should not be a cause for concern as long as the power supply provides enough.
Hello , i have a question regarding one of your videos. The question is : If i connect the drill Charger directly to the drill without charger (The charger 12 and the drill 12v) The drill will work normal, as if it had a battery? Thank you!
I have an everstart jumpstarter. The charger that came with it is 19vdc 500mA. I have a laptop charger that is 19v and just shy of 5A. Why do I smell smoke when I plug it in? The voltage is the same. The amps are more. The wattage is high, but I don't understand the problem after watching this video
I charged a 12V hand drill battery with a 12v car battery charger and it went into meltdown...and ignition. I'm sure the explosion was coming. So was my new charger but I needed one fast charge in the mean time but I'm just putting this out there
idunno man, hand drill and a car work different by themselves, it may have worked at first, then something happened when you overdo it.. or maybe it the amps.
A car battery actually has a nominal charge of 12.6V. The alternator on your car generates 13V-14V. Some car battery chargers use more voltage than that for faster charging. Meanwhile, "20V" drill battery's are actually 18V generated from 5×3.6V lithium cells. The bottom line is that you a actually need to look at the actually voltage specifications four for device and not the device name.
@@timharig I had ordered the correct charger. It came in the post a few days after the catastrophe. I incidentally used a car battery charger to give a boost to a 14 volt drill battery but it didn't seem to overheat. The battery was possibly on the way out. Technology was advancing faster and 14volt stuff wasn't around long so I didn't care.
what if i have a battery charger that says 2A and i want to charge batteries that the company suggests the 4.5A charger. Will the batteries be charged slower and that's all or it may be a problem later with the batteries?
My laptop uses a 19.5V 11.8A power supply, I used my friend's 20V 7.5A power supply and it works fine and I want it because its lighter to carry to just do basic everyday tasks. Is that okay?
There's no way for me to know. It depends on the hardware and it's tolerance for not getting things exactly right. This is covered in the video and companion article.
If the power supply has higher amperage than required by the device, would the power supply heat up? Eg that example you have with 100A power supply and 0.5A device, it won't damage the device but would it heat up and become e a fire hazard for the power supply (eg an adaptor)?
Thank you sir i love you XD I had already ordered my device before i looked it up but my batter is 18/20 volts 6Amps and the device i bought is 12-24 volt 5 Amps The device is a Amplifier for a speaker system. Im going to make a diy speaker make uses a drill batter
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Volts and amps combine to confuse. Understanding how they work can help clear it up.
Thanks Leo!!
Thank you, Sir.
Respect from India
About wiggle room, Can I use a 250V 10A charger as a replacement for 220V 5A charger?
@@ogasama6028 Those are the charger's line/input numbers. Usually lots of flexibility there. What matters most is the output that's going in to the device you're charging. Those numbers are important.
One of the confusion questions we asked regarding choosing power connector
"Amperage is drawn, not pushed." That's the clearest explanation I have ever heard. Thank you!
Yes.. I never understood this… until now. Thanks Leo!
Same here 😀
"voltages must match and amperage must either match or exceed that required by the device" -- concise and practical, thank you!
I am a college music professor looking to teach this subject in class and you explained it perfectly. I’ve been searching for an explanation like this for a long time. Thank you!
6:17 That "center negative" or "center positive" polarity diagram for barrel connectors was so helpful! I looked at the brick part of the adapter and it was right there! In plain sight!! Many thanks!
Well done. My Elmer who coached me for my general license presented voltage and amperage in virtually the same fashion. He has been a silent key for nearly 30 years but listening to you brought back my memories of him. It is odd that something so simple confuses so many people. I now find myself eager to watch more of your videos. 73's
My wife brought home a Samsung Freestyle Projector… from her clients trash! (Worth about $300). It didn’t work but I noticed it had an 9v Apple charger with it. I bought the correct Samsung 20v charger and it works like a champ. Knowledge is power… or in this case.. money!
Thank you, sir. Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication...!
This is so helpful and easy to remember! Maybe now I can trim down the pile of various old usb chargers I have lying around too.
At the risk of confusing things further, it might help some people with an analogy to demystify what voltage and current (amps) are. The analogy isn't perfect, but helpful in some situations. The analogy is with water in pipes and hoses. Voltage is analogous to water pressure (PSI or Pascals). Current is analogous to flow of water (gallons per minute or liters per minute). The computer is analogous to an "appliance," such as a lawn sprinkler, that you attach to a faucet with a garden hose. And, the power supply is analogous to the faucet connected to the garden hose, limiting the flow of water (current) that goes to the sprinkler. That's why the water pressure (voltage) has to match what the lawn sprinkler can handle. If the water pressure is extremely high, then it might blow out the sprinkler, damaging it. If the water pressure is lower than the sprinkler is designed for, then the sprinkler doesn't operate correctly, dribbling water out and probably not rotating as designed. The results are similar if the flow of water supplied is less than what the sprinkler needs and is designed for.
this analogy just explain the voltage part of the thing not amperage. And actually I believe you are referring to wats and not volts in this analogy.
A lucid and to the point explanation. Loved it. Keep up the good work.
This is the best video I have ever seen explaining this is super simple terms. Thank you so much
Damn man, this is the clearest explanation I've ever heard in my life
Also important is to plug the power supply into the device first and then into the wall outlet to avoid a surge that could damage your device. When your done unplug the power supply from the wall outlet and then unplug from the device being used.
I have to disagree with that. Power supplies, whether linear or switching contain reactive elements (coils and capacitors). When the power supply first turns on, those devices go through a transient period while they reach a steady state. It is during that transient period that anything bad could happen such as inductive voltage spikes that could potentially damage a device. Likewise, when the device loses power, it again goes from a steady state to a transient state while the reactive devices discharge.
Once it has reached a steady state, it will regulate the voltage normally. The WORST that could happen while it is running steady state is that the device attempts to draw to much instantaneous power as might happen during the transient while the device is first plugged in. When that happens, the output capacitor buffering the voltage (present on any kind of related power supply) will be drained too quickly causing drop in voltage -- if the power supply isn't designed to be able to handle the power. A drop in voltage might disrupt the device for a moment; but, it will not damage the device the way that a voltage spike could.
So in theory, to be as safe as possible, you should always plug the power supply in first and then plug the device into the power supply once it has reached steady state. Likewise, disconnect the device and then unplug the power supply so that it is not subject to any during shutdown transients. In reality, none of this should be important. A well engineered power supply should be designed to effectively filter the transients or to inhibit voltage output until the transients have subsided.
That is why some higher power supplies with large active components may take take a few seconds to power on. When they do, you will hear the click of a relay enabling the power output. That relay is timed based on the length of time that the circuit transient needs to subside.
So as long as you purchase power supplies from reputable brands, you shouldn't have any trouble. After all, what would happen during a power glitch? Your power supply and device would have to through power down and then power up transients. If you buy a cheap chinesium power supply from EBay, the engineers might not have spent enough time designing around the transients.
Jumble of B.S. I have been working in electronics for over 50 years. Worked on everything from radar, ICP, GCMS,ICPMS and have seen many devices powered by the beloved WALL WART destroyed by not proper plug in sequence. But this is what you can expect form a theory guy who has never worked in the real world. I guess I was not specific enough ! Have you ever seen a circuit board loaded with CMOS chips get destroyed by static electricity. Switching power supplies cannot handle transient spikes. It may be better now but in the 80s and 90s. We had to replace 5 power supplies in GCMS units because of power surge. Go online and see all of the power line conditioners on the market as well as C.V.T. units for 120, 220 and 440 volt three phase ! Equipment costing 100k or more with power supplies from CHINA that are amazing if the last 5 years !@@timharig
Excellent. Only just seen this video. Very clearly explained, and best explanation I've seen. Can't understand why other videos have to complicate things.
Thank you for making this! This is exactly what I was looking for. Super helpful and well done.
Thank you do much for the refresher. It's been a while since my tinkering days of yore, and I needed to confirm a variable output on a buck box. Since W (P) is drawn, the equations imply that A (I) are drawn as well. But as my grandfather said, measure twice, cut once.
I almost bought a new charging brick with a lower amp rating for one of my devices. Thanks for the clear explanation.
Great information. Thank you. This is why TH-cam can be such a powerful learning aid, but it does not work without the support of professional like you.
Thank you for educating me to this question that I've had forever.
I watch a few different IT guys. Each of them are different. But you Leo.......... You really take us to class..
I was on my computer and looking for an answer for this subject, you explained it simple and easy to understand that i had togot my phone to like, subscribe and comment on the video. Thank you soo much. 🙏
Good tip on the polarity. Thanks for all this info. I admit that I only skimmed this video looking to answer my primary question, but am wondering if AC vs DC is discussed, sometimes I see "switching."
Thanks for your time I've been working in electronics for a long time. And this is the first clarification I've really heard
hey thanks leo, i always had this doubt about the amperage, thank you
Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. Very helpful
short and simple and elegant explanation , thank you
sir...the way you explain is so great...you keep repeating the importance point..which it had deep eatching deep in my memory..thank
He’s a joy to watch and listen to. Not bad looking either 😊. Thank you for sharing this video in such an easy to understand way ❤
Thank you!
I just watched this video and would like to add that if you are reading the specs directly off the charger, make sure to take notice of whether it is rated AC or DC output. Make sure the charger and the device are the same type.
I needed to know this, as im getting some Vtech consoles and Vtech power adapters are INSANELY hard to find or expensive.
This was so helpful! I went through a bunch of videos but couldn't make it past rhe 5 minute mark. I just wanted ti know if i can use my laptop charger to charge my phone. Thank you 🙏🙏
Thanks Leo! I learned something again. Always was confused about the amperage thing. JimE
If it’s lithium ion that you are charging I thought it shortens the life of a battery the higher the amperage charger you use. I’ve had the notion that when charging a lithium battery the slower the charge the longer the overall life of the battery. Is any of this true. Thanks! I appreciate this video!
needed to refresh my memory, thanks Leo :) quick and easy
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and time 😊
Thanks 👏👏👏👏 Voltage Must Match 💥amps only drawn not pushed 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thank you! Just bought digital clock that needed adaptor. It does not work on batteries. God Bless You!
Thanks, man. I learned a lot with this video. You are the best!
Sure you can use a charger with the same voltage and different amperage rating, it will charge at a different rate, but it will still charge.
What is voltage, what is current? They actually go together, it might be what’s stamped on the device, but it’s the thing that is being charged that determines the current voltage relationship. You put a load on the battery and current will flow based upon the resistance within the device you are charging, but it’s the voltage that matters and determines how much current will flow. So as long as you don’t exceed the voltage rating for the device, only the current based upon the internal resistance will flow.
Thanks, great explanation! clear & comprehensive. Question though, about 6:15 into your video you delve into polarity. What is the standard? center positive or negative & why would a vendor not use the standard, other than sheer hubris?
In my experience there's no real standard. Center positive seems the most common, BUT it's not something you can count on.
Thank you my case is 12. Volts 3.33 Amp the old one.. and the replacement is 12 volts but 5 Amp. God bless and kudos
I fucking love this video. It answers the question so clearly I'm unlikely to ever need to watch it again. But I will be subscribing. Thank you!
I could like the video 10000000 times if possible... you are the best!
I make a lot of USB DIY for myself and I decided to measure polarity more than once and maybe test it with a disposable light thing and a not so important power bank. I can lose some, but the expensive device is sad to kill and it happens quickly.
Thank you sir, your explanation is very clear and easy to understand. It really helps.
Thanks a lot. A big help.
I have a device that requires only 100ma but my power charger is 2amps. I feel safe now to use my power supply charger.
Thank Sir Leo, You explain everything i want want to hear.
You've explained very well!
thank u! man this can get confusing. than you soo much! even here in 2022, this still helped me greatly
Thanks for nice and clear explanation. My confusion is solved. Regards.
Thank you for your explanation! Helped a lot.
Thanks 🙏
Is 5.2 V output instead of 5V too much? Or does it fall within the "small" difference? Thanks
No way to know. It depends on the specific device.
@@askleonotenboom I see. Thank you 🙏
If you are referring to a USB-x 5V powered device then the actual voltage from the power supply should be 5.1V-5.25V. That is to account for the voltage drop by the cord between the power supply and the device.
You must be a saint to answer these comments
Thanks, Leo! How do I find out the voltage and amps that my device require? Is there somewhere on my phone or laptop that indicates that?
The users manual should have it.
@@askleonotenboom My manual just says battery capacity is 4500mAh. No mention of voltage. I have a Samsung Galaxy S20FE. Thanks!
Thank you...this has made what I have learned even clearer. Very nice video.
Thank you sir, you have explained this so well. I have taken this in, very helpful.
I have a quick question if you could answer. What if a charging block is rated at an amperage amount that is higher than the power providing source? For example, rating of power supply is 32amps but the power being supplied is rated 24amps both have 240V. This is specific to my level 2 EV charging situation.
Addressed in the video. As long as the power supply is rated higher than that needed by the device being charged, all is well.
Excellent clarification. I have a question. Can I use a power bank to power on the laptop without internal battery? Thank you.
Usually, yes.
Thank you so much sir, I am grateful to you, with this I can finally finish a project, and solve a doubt I had for years.
Afternoon, Sir. Was recently gifted a portable record player from Japan. The *Anabas GP-N3R.* And being a ‘beginner’ (at best) when it comes to all things all things electronics, I had no clue that I could not use the same 8V adaptor it came with here in Canada. So without taking up to much of your time & if you don’t mind me asking, might you know what I could purchase as a replacement for it that will suffice? Thanks kindly for your time. A lovely day to you & yours. *Now subscribed.* Cheers!!!*
All questions answered. Thank you so much.
Thanks Leo. Just the info I have been looking for.
Thanks, though now starting to think proprietary 5.9v adapters are some kind of aftermarket monopoly racket
i can charge li-ion batteries in a 2A charger but with 0,5 or 1 A adapter?
Damn! This was spot on! Thank you
Oops....... the specified voltage on a transformer is the correct voltage when the current being drawn is at the specified maximum of the transformer. If you are using a device which requires 5V 1amp and you use a transformer which can supply 5V 2amp, then the actual output voltage applied to the device will be greater (significantly) than the specified 5V.
Case in point: My laptop requires 5V 1amp. When using any 5V 2amp transformer, my laptop charging goes completely haywire! After changing to a 5V 1amp charger the laptop charging is exactly as it should be. I've been using the 5V 1amp charger for two years now and my laptop with the 5V 1amp charger has not missed a beat!
"a transformer which can supply 5V 2amp, then the actual output voltage applied to the device will be greater (significantly) than the specified 5V." This is absolutely false. It should produce 5V regardless. Something else is going on.
Thanks for clearing it up a bit. But I still am a bit confused. I am looking for a 9V and 2A charger. I found some that support 9V and 3A so by your explanation it's fine. But this exact same charger also supports 6V and 12V. So 3 different voltages. You can't tell the charger which one to use. Can I assume it just knows what to do?
No. It sounds like it might be a special purpose charger intended for specific devices. If you can't tell it what to use, I'd not trust it to use the right one.
Many have a switch to select the voltage.
Same problem here. I have a device that requires 5v/2a i have a Samsung super fast charger that reads 5v/3a; 9v/3a; etc... I don't know if it'll work or not for the device. You can't select voltage on it. Just a basic Samsung phone charger. I don't get it.
Would higher amperage or current not affect cable size? Because higher current have thicker wires
Depends on the situation, but yes, generally. That's why the cables to your car battery are so thick. Still 12 volts, but when starting the car the draw is many, many amps.
very cool, we make the interchangeable style 5W-65W .
Wowwww, i love this man explaining things.❤❤❤❤
Thank you so much this was really easy to understand keep up the good work🤘😎
Thanks so much for this. Really succinct and easy to understand.
How can I tell what the polarity is on a device? neither the old power supply or the device (In this case a Elliptical) has no markings. And since power supply is dead no way to check polarity. If I was to put batteries in device could I check polarity of device by measuring the barrel of the device? It seems logical but I don't want to screw it up LOL. Thank you for a great clear informative video :)
Really good explanation
Very well explained. Thank you sir.
1. The Question: The video starts with a question about using a different power charger for a netbook. The original charger specs are 19V and 1.58A, but a replacement is available with 19V and 2.15A.
2. Voltage and Amperage Rules: The video clarifies that the voltage must match between the original and replacement charger, which is good in this case (both are 19V). The amperage provided by the power supply must be greater than or equal to the amperage required by the device. The new charger provides 2.15A, exceeding the device's 1.58A requirement, so it should work.
3. Amperage is Drawn, Not Pushed: The video emphasizes that amperage is drawn by the device, not pushed by the power supply. The device will only use the amount of amperage it needs, even if the power supply can provide more. This means a power supply with a higher amperage rating than the device requires is perfectly fine.
4. Polarity Matters: The polarity (positive and negative wires) must match between the power supply and the device. In many cases, the polarity is standardized, but there are exceptions, especially with non-standard connectors like barrel connectors. It's essential to check the polarity markings on the power supply and the device to ensure a match.
5. Voltage Tolerance: The video acknowledges that some devices can tolerate a small variation in voltage. However, it emphasizes that the ideal solution is to use a power supply with the exact same voltage as the original. Deviating too much from the required voltage could damage the device.
6. Amperage and Device Functionality: If the power supply provides less amperage than the device needs, it may work slowly, not work at all, or even damage the device. It's always best to ensure the power supply provides at least as much amperage as the device requires.
7. Polarity in Modern Connectors: For many modern connectors, such as USB, polarity is standardized, so there is no need to worry about it.
8. Non-Standard Connectors and Polarity: The video warns about non-standard connectors, like barrel connectors, where the polarity can vary. It's crucial to check the polarity markings on both the power supply and the device to ensure compatibility.
9. Input Voltage and Power Supplies: The video explains that most modern power supplies can handle a wide range of input voltages (110-240 volts) and automatically switch between different power systems. It's important to check the input voltage range printed on the power supply and use it within the specified limits to avoid damage.
10. Summary: The video concludes by emphasizing that the most important factor when choosing a power supply is to match the voltage with the device and ensure the power supply provides at least as much amperage as the device requires. The amperage is drawn by the device and should not be a cause for concern as long as the power supply provides enough.
AI generated?
@askleonotenboom Yes
Hello , i have a question regarding one of your videos. The question is : If i connect the drill Charger directly to the drill without charger (The charger 12 and the drill 12v) The drill will work normal, as if it had a battery? Thank you!
No idea. Maybe? Probably? There's no way for me to know for sure, since it depends on the specific devices involved.
This was super helpful and informative,thanks sir!
I have an everstart jumpstarter. The charger that came with it is 19vdc 500mA. I have a laptop charger that is 19v and just shy of 5A. Why do I smell smoke when I plug it in?
The voltage is the same. The amps are more. The wattage is high, but I don't understand the problem after watching this video
Very good and helpful video👍👍👍❤️
Thank you very much for this video’ Now i am clear about the A..
This is the assurance that I need
I charged a 12V hand drill battery with a 12v car battery charger and it went into meltdown...and ignition. I'm sure the explosion was coming. So was my new charger but I needed one fast charge in the mean time but I'm just putting this out there
idunno man, hand drill and a car work different by themselves, it may have worked at first, then something happened when you overdo it.. or maybe it the amps.
A car battery actually has a nominal charge of 12.6V. The alternator on your car generates 13V-14V. Some car battery chargers use more voltage than that for faster charging.
Meanwhile, "20V" drill battery's are actually 18V generated from 5×3.6V lithium cells.
The bottom line is that you a actually need to look at the actually voltage specifications four for device and not the device name.
@@timharig I had ordered the correct charger. It came in the post a few days after the catastrophe. I incidentally used a car battery charger to give a boost to a 14 volt drill battery but it didn't seem to overheat. The battery was possibly on the way out. Technology was advancing faster and 14volt stuff wasn't around long so I didn't care.
Thank you, this was so helpful !
what if i have a battery charger that says 2A and i want to charge batteries that the company suggests the 4.5A charger. Will the batteries be charged slower and that's all or it may be a problem later with the batteries?
Thank you my friend!
Thank you, very informative
I use old cell chargers with lower amperage to charge the phone slower, as long as the voltage does not drop.
My laptop uses a 19.5V 11.8A power supply, I used my friend's 20V 7.5A power supply and it works fine and I want it because its lighter to carry to just do basic everyday tasks. Is that okay?
There's no way for me to know. It depends on the hardware and it's tolerance for not getting things exactly right. This is covered in the video and companion article.
Great explanation. Thank you!
Thanks this is such a good explanation!
If the power supply has higher amperage than required by the device, would the power supply heat up? Eg that example you have with 100A power supply and 0.5A device, it won't damage the device but would it heat up and become e a fire hazard for the power supply (eg an adaptor)?
Nope.
Great explanation and video.
Straight to the point.. excellent!..
Thank you sir i love you XD
I had already ordered my device before i looked it up but my batter is 18/20 volts 6Amps and the device i bought is 12-24 volt 5 Amps
The device is a Amplifier for a speaker system. Im going to make a diy speaker make uses a drill batter
I have old toy charger, it's 3,6V and 500mA. Do I dare to use this to power 3,3 volt sensors?
No idea. Could be OK, could destroy the sensors.
@askleonotenboom very helpful. Thank you and goodbye.
How do you feel about the 5% range tolerance rule for the voltage on a laptop charger?
No way to have an opinion. It depends on the true tolerance of the devices involved.
Thanks, nicely explaind for us how are new in this 🙂
I've long wondered if I could use my laptop USB-C charger to recharge my iPhone. Now I know, thanks!
MAYBE. Generally not.