I just following your video and do my car. The pipe, cooler and intake manifold can be clean satisfactory with Berry man chem dip with plug the openings. Egr can be clean but the black motor can be bad some time.
I saw your other question and tried to reply but then realized that it was deleted. This one..... "After I replaced the EGR valve and Mass Air Pressure sensor on the intake manifold, and cleaned the manifold and throttle body, I got 4 check engine lights . 1) P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow a Circuit Low, 2) P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High, 3) P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Low, 4) P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High. I replaced the Mass Air Pressure Sensor on the intake manifold. I tried to erase the codes using my OBDII but these wouldn't erase. Did you have similar problem after you went for a drive? Thanks." Did you figure it out?
At 160K miles and no EGR issues yet. Still getting 52 on the highway. I am going to deep soak (purple power over night) my intake and cooler in the next couple of wks...and clean out EGR valve. I've seen a yota tech on youtube saying to download software after changing EGR? I think it's the way he's been trained. I see that you did not. Thx for the vid.
I do the same: buy an extra used intakemanifold and EGR-cooler and make sure they are really clean. You don't have to hurry because you have an extra set. I soaked it in diesel, but that didn't work satisfactory. Ovencleaner works a lot better and faster. If possible: get the EGR-cooler off and clean it, or replace with a cleaned one, that way everything is done. Doing this makes your Prius, Auris or Corolla hybrid last forever without headgasketproblems or rattling or troublecodes
@@Fahmbo The water pump will show signs before failing. I don't normally replace parts just in case. I'll replace it soon but I won't do it every 75-80k miles when I clean the parts in the EGR system.
That bolt from hell is actually a nut and the removal of the bolt requiring the 8mm star reverse socket. You should have shown that hardest part of the job in your video. Everything else is easy to remove. There are a bunch of parts that needs to be dismantled from the throttle body, intake runners, EGR valve and the cooler needs to be thoroughly cleaned which you did not show at all.
That is true. Most people don't have the right star socket to remove the stud but it's easier to remove the stud with the nut still on it than try to remove the nut first. I had replaced the EGR cooler prior to starting my channel so I'll do a video on that the next time it comes up. This video was more about replacing the EGR valve and intake manifold. No I have all the original parts that can be cleaned and ready to be swapped back in down to road easily and quickly. I did show how to remove the intake and explain what I was doing as I went along. I've been thanked by many others as I try to do these videos and explain what I'm doing as I do it. I'm still learning how to make every video better though as I'm new to this video making stuff. 😉😎
@@jimsgaragetoys Yes indeed easier to loosen the nut first then tackle the bolt. That bolt from hell should be addressed on video since it's impossible to remove that cooler any other way.
@@brucewayne2773 It's one of those things that is hard to show but just explaining it can help people understand what it involved. That way when they attack it they quickly see the issue but at least they have a heads up.
Thanks. I'm still learning my way around making the videos as I'm not a computer guy, I prefer to work with wrenches. 😂 I'm glad it helped you, sorry about the drill sounds.
Great thorough step by step video! I just bought a 2014 and I don’t see that EGR or water pump have been addressed. Car has 180k mikes. 6:37 Which would you recommend doing first?
The EGR cooler and EGR valve are must service items. The water pump doesn't need replacing if it works. I'm not a huge believer in replacing parts that are working. If you want to buy a spare water pump to have on hand that would be okay but I wouldn't replace a working part.
After you installed the new EGR Valve and Intake Manifold, did you have to do a Software Update to the vehicles computer with Techstream (as referenced in TH-cam Video Titled "Toyota EGR Diagnosis Tips and Repair Tips")?
Good question, but no. Nothing was needed to be done. The car runs great and I wouldn't think that replacing the EGR valve would need a software update if the EGR valve was changed before it was all gunned up and not working properly. That's the whole point of doing the service before the EGR system gets plugged up.
This will be the most extensive work i've attempted on the prius. Only done my oil changes so far, planning to replace coolant and transmission fluid soon too but that's pretty straight forward. While I have all this stuff taken apart to clean the EGR, is there anything else I should do? I'm at 93k miles and 10 years, I was planning to also change the engine coolant pump. I was thinking to replace the PCV valve since it's like $5 and it will be easy to get to during EGR cleaning. I'm assuming it's way too early to replace the spark plugs? Not sure if it matters but I'm in California and almost always use top tier gas.
Yes, I would replace the PCV valve and install an oil catch can as that helps the Prius a lot. I'm at 155k miles and my water pump is still fine. I'm thinking of replacing it around 175k miles. I hate replacing parts that are working just fine. This is a little time consuming but if you take your time you will be fine. Cleaning the parts out, especially the EGR cooler can take soon time though. I made a video on cleaning them out not that long ago too. It sounds like you have an idea of what needs to be done. feel free to ask with any other questions.
Noticed you have catch can installed. How much oil is being trapped between what mileage interval? Also if do you think the catch is necessary if you are having to swap intake manifold, EGR valve, and EGR cooler every 50k miles as you planned to?
Good question. I installed the oil catch can before I decided to just buy new parts to be able to clean and swap them. I empty it every 5k miles when I change the oil. I installed it after seeing that it was very beneficial for a Prius on PriusChat. I've never measured the amount that it catches but it catches enough that I don't want it dunking up my intake manifold.
I cleaned space under the throttle body at 80,000kms and there was just a very thin film of oil on it. Think the oil catch can is a waste as you should just replace the PCV valve every 100,000kms or so. It’s just cost a few dollars
@@yslee1401 An oil catch can won't do anything but help. There are a lot of people on PriusChat that have shown that it can be a big plus for a Prius. Changing the PCV valve won't prevent the crude from being returned up into the intake manifold and gunking things up faster. I know that the crud that mind catches doesn't get returned to muck up things. You also checked yours at 50k miles which isn't much. Many Prius owners never check and clean things out until they have issues. The best defense is to install an OCC and still clean things out every 75k miles for a long, healthy Prius life.
Nice job. I did the same plus new pcv valve. And oil catch can plus keep oil level halfway between full and add. 2012 then one cold Feb morning still got the cold start rattle. Just made the 10 year or 150k egr warr enhancement from dealer. They replace EGR valve plus update the EGR software. ZF3? No more rattle. Suggest having dealer do your software update after your new valve. Per car care nut EGR video.
Thanks for the tip. I did have the dealer do the EGR software update. Mine was past the date to have them replace the EGR valve so that's why I did it myself. I've never experienced the rattle but did the maintenance anyway. I replace the PCV valve 2 years ago and installed an oil catch can at that point too.
@@bicyclekikz14 I replaced the EGR valve, EGR cooler and intake manifold. This way I could take my time and clean everything better. I can then swap the parts right away and get the car back to my wife without delays and have clean parts ready to swap on at any time.
You are pro level man! I really like your plan of having parts ready to go! Way less down time. I have a 2015 gen 3 plug in . My question is since there is a warranty on EGR related issues up to 150 k mi should I wait till I approach 150 k miles or would you recommend I start with swapping out new parts now and head off any problems? ( also adding a catch can!) Would really appreciate your advice! Are you going to make a video on how you approach cleaning intake, EGR cooler and valve?
Thanks. I realized how long it could take to properly clean the parts so always taking my time to clean a 2nd set made sense and have them ready for the next swap. I checked about the recall but the dealer told me that it was 150k miles or 10 years so I was beyond the time frame. You would be under both so check and see if a dealer can do it for free this time. Maybe they would give you the old parts so you could have them ready for the next time when you swap them again. The catch can is simple to install. The PCV valve is in the same location as my 2017 Corolla iM and I did a video for that install. I located the OCC in a different location but the install is the same. Maybe this video can help you. th-cam.com/video/90nZTeLG7rw/w-d-xo.html
Hi Leo Lee. I just bought a 2010 prius with 147 000 miles on it yesterday. The guy told me that he doesn't think the erg / egr cooler or manifold haven ever been replaced. Is it bad? Do you think Toyota will change the egr for free since the car has less than 150 000 miles? Thank you!
@@DrumPeearl I don't know why they would replace them since they are items that need regular maintenance. That being said, there's nothing that prevents you from replacing them yourself. The other option is to remove them, clean the parts, are reinstall them.
Hey Jim, I'm working with a 2011 Prius that rattles on start. The last owner experienced the same thing and replaced the Intake manifold and cleaned the PVC pipe (not sure what that is). But they referred us to your video where I'm commenting. My question is - if we think the EGR cooler and EGR valve have never been replace on a high mileage prius, should we replace them or try and clean them?
Try to clean them, for sure, no need to replace. But also violent rattling on cold start is one of the indicators of a blown head gasket on this car so you can do egr cleaning but also test for compression in cylinders to make sure it isn’t a head gasket issue
Fantastic video! Thank you, about to do this job tmo, using toyota parts. Maybe I missed it, but what is your method and tools used for cleaning the ports on the manifold and egr cooler? Thanks again, best video Ive seen on this!
Thank you very much! I appreciate it. I did show cleaning the parts as I didn't do it at the time since I was using new parts to replace the dirty ones. I used some small wire brushes to clean out my intake manifold passages with plenty of soaking in degreaser and brake cleaner. There are a lot of excellent degreasers that will work well, just pick one and soak it. I would then use the wire brushes to clean the passages and intake. The EGR cooler is also cleaned the same way and since you can't use a brush on it just soak, spray, rinse and repeat until looking new. I used this type. www.amazon.com/Stainless-Brushes-Cleaning-Removal-Scrubbing/dp/B092Z9JVNF/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.14a246c3-7a62-40bf-bdd0-5ac67c2a1913%3Aamzn1.sym.14a246c3-7a62-40bf-bdd0-5ac67c2a1913&cv_ct_cx=metal+brushes+for+cleaning+rust&keywords=metal+brushes+for+cleaning+rust&pd_rd_i=B092Z9JVNF&pd_rd_r=3a44a6fb-7966-4fe5-baca-10f908e07e83&pd_rd_w=KfFDQ&pd_rd_wg=7gisd&pf_rd_p=14a246c3-7a62-40bf-bdd0-5ac67c2a1913&pf_rd_r=G68Q8R31TXFDAC03A73G&qid=1673736562&sr=1-2-a73d1c8c-2fd2-4f19-aa41-2df022bcb241-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyME1VSkZSTFVLNlNZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTcxOTIzM1ZWUEpBMFpSNkY2WSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzcxNTIxMk5GNzVTOVlCR1FJRSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3NlYXJjaF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= I also used these for the small passages in the intake manifold. www.amazon.com/Bottle-Stainless-Bristle-PMD-Products/dp/B007S91ND4/ref=sr_1_7_sspa?crid=B9I9QMBX247Q&keywords=small+wire+brush&qid=1673736793&s=industrial&sprefix=small+%2Cindustrial%2C156&sr=1-7-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTDdGM0QzNEpXQUhNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDE2MjY4MUc4OFFGTkRFM1hJOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODYwMTEwMkFUVjRBTjM4UE40WiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
@@jimsgaragetoys thanks again! Just got everything apart, the rear nuts holding the cooler were the toughest part. Probably need new metal gaskets, and some hose clamps. Bear of a job, but saving a grand works for me! Couldnt have done it without your video, thanks again!
Hi Jims! Thanks for that excellent video! I just got a 2010 prius with 147 200 miles on it and saw that it was highly recommended to clean the egr system (egr valve and cooler) as well as the manifold and it can avoid major issues such as misfire engine or head gasket issues. I am not handy at all but I don't have $500 to throw to a mechanic, in addition I want to do it the best as I can and have the control of the cleaning process of the part. How long would it take for someone that never took done so many parts? What do you advice to use to clean the egr, erg cooler and the manifold? (brands / type of product? Or tools?) Can it be cleaned in few minutes or couple hours that way I can reassemble everything in the same day? I would like to avoid costly parts. I have seen a lot of reviews of handy person saying that all the parts can be cleaned and reused. Ultimately, do you think cleaning it would prevent the failure of the head gasket? Thank you so much!
Thank you very much! I try to do my videos so people like you that have little to no experience can do it themselves. I would give yourself a full day to get everything off, cleaned, and back on. This way you can take your time. If you have a weekend that will allow you even more time to do it. I could replace the pats in a few hours now that I've done it. To clean the parts there are all kinds of choices. For the intake manifold you will need to use degreasers and long wire brushes of various sizes. Amazon sells a variety pack of wire brushes for cheap. If you have a large plastic container you can soak the intake manifold to let the degreaser work. Brake cleaner always works for the small holes. You will want to get new gaskets for the intake manifold and replace them. I've seen many things used for the EGR cooler and EGR valve including carb and brake spray cleaners and many of the all around cleaners from dozens of things claiming they will clean anything. You need to make sure the EGR cooler is clean and you will be able to see through it so it's very easy to tell. I didn't clean my EGR valve yet so I'm not sure about it. I bought a new one and haven't messed with the old one.
@@jimsgaragetoys thank you Jim! I have watched the video again and I am not sure if I'll be able to do all the labor, it looks really tricky. I am looking for someone that has knowledge to do it in Orlando area, FL for a reasonable price... I can't justify paying $500 to have a garage doing it...
@@DrumPeearl Have you met anyone else from FB Prius groups or Prius forums? It's usually pretty easy to find others that are willing to help out. I've done that over the years with many different car groups and we help each other out when possible.
I have multiple ones that I use depending on the usage and torque needed. I have a good selection of Milwaukee tools in both the M12 and M18 battery sizes. The 3/8" M12 one I use a lot has no impact function but works well on most 10mm, 12, and 14mm bolts.
Few days ago I drove my car and after 20 minutes and I got a check engine light with code P0441. I cleared it and drove again today. I now have P0441, P0300, P0302, P0304. I recently changed all spark plugs, fuel injectors and ran fine. No rattle or slow acceleration or any noise. Could it be the EVAP Purge Valve Solenoid might've triggered the others? First thing I'll do is to replace the Evap purge valve solenoid and see if this solves the problem. Thanks.
The P0441 usually indicates a bad vacuum switch or a leak in the EVAP system that is preventing fuel vapors from reaching the canister. The P0441 code can also indicate a faulty or "stuck" PCV, a short circuit in the feed circuit, or a faulty purge solenoid. Codes are P0300 (Random Cylinder Misfire), P0302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire), and P0304 (Cylinder 4 Misfire). You can swap coil 1 & 2 and see if the codes follow or stay the same to see if it's a coil or not.
Have you considered adding a port to the EGR tube so you can routinely inject a cleaner into it to keep the whole EGR system clean? I don't own any vehicles with EGR problems, but have contemplated this for a long time for those that do.
Good question but would that work? What cleaner would be used? How would that work to keep the EGR cooler and EGR valve clean since they would be down stream from the tube? It's really not that hard to remove them and replace them with parts that are clean every 75-80k miles which is every 5-7years for most people so it's not that often to take 3 hours to do it and know that the parts are 100% clean.
@@jimsgaragetoys You inject on the inlet side of the EGR cooler/valve and it cleans everything. Seafoam or an intake cleaner should do the job, or just water. It would have to be done with the EGR valve open of course which would require doing it while driving or with a scan tool that can command the EGR valve to open.
@@DonziGT230 The EGR tube is on the outlet side of the EGR valve, on the inlet side of the EGR cooler is the exhaust pipe that attaches to the EGR cooler. I wouldn't want to mess with that and hope that it would work. Changing these parts out only takes me 2-3 hours every 5-7 years so I just don't find it a very big deal and this way I know with 100% certainty that the parts are clean and not hoping that the cleaner worked.
I'm about to do the same for my Prius. Curious... is your new intake manifold the same as the original one? The EGR passage was redesigned on the new version (P/N ending in -54). The new version also has a 1/2 grill gasket on the throttle body. If they are different, was there any issue with performance?
I didn't notice any differences but I've had it for several years. When did the redesign come out? I still have the box so I'll have to look at it. It's tucked away up high with the cleaned parts ready for when I need them again.
@@jimsgaragetoys Not sure when the last version (17120-37054) came out. The service bulletin T-SB 0012-10 issued in 2012 indicates version 17120-37052 was the latest. Version -54 came out later and it has baffles in the main EGR channel. You can see a picture of it in posts #52 and #56 by TeamGeek on PriusChat thread titled "Visual Differences between updated Intake Manifold". Many say it doesn't fix anything. Regular cleaning is still required for the entire EGR Circuit to prevent clogging and cold-start rattling.
@@dezafinado I looked and the one I bought was the latest version, 17120-37054. I didn't notice any visual differences and as you pointed out it still needs to be cleaned.
@@jimsgaragetoys Thanks for the update. I just removed the air filter box, throttle body and EGR pipe for cleaning and inspection. My car is 2015 PiP with the -54 intake, normal cold-starts, 50-52 MPG in Hybrid mode, no oil consumption and no DTCs. At 66k, the throttle body is clean on the top-side while the bottom had a smear of oil. The butterfly was clean. There was ~2 tablespoons of oil at the bottom of the intake. The EGR pipe (elbow) had about 1.5mm of carbon buildup at the edge of each end but very little inside. I didn't remove the intake, EGR and EGR cooler but the Intake main orifice and EGR orifice have about 1mm buildup so no blockage yet. I plan to remove the entire EGR circuit for cleaning and replace the PCV at 70 or 75k. Since you have an OCC, do you think it's really effective in reducing oil accumulation at the bottom of the intake? Although I like the idea of having the OCC, I don't want to remove the OCC, the intake, related hoses and put everything back to its original format for Smog Inspection every 2 years. As a maintenance routine, I will remove/clean the throttle body and wipe off the oil in the intake annually. Do you think that's sufficient w/o having aan OCC?
@@dezafinado I think you have a good plan in mind. Why would an OCC not be allowed for smog inspection? As long as it's not a vented OCC it should be fine as the system is still sealed. I know that in testing the OCC was shown to be very effective in the Prius in many ways.
Good eye! Yes, they are HPS silicone radiator hoses. Here is the link. www.ebay.com/itm/374109620543?fits=Year%3A2010%7CModel%3APrius&epid=2010059751&hash=item571aabc93f:g:Z4cAAOSwI8ximEEG&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8AApHMkpiUxCez2dwGyiZy5eI%2ByGuAjDzf5Pk%2FyNeP4XdwNDmidCVSYYjAFHa%2B1aLDdl4HGR%2FPM%2BgWfD6in8ob6GrEResp5pw%2F30ILotEHmfDerirC21UhA6u7qZ7eaGzVxwAHKo57GN%2FGUw1g6Hfj5D%2FEXTaWFtxRxWyao5qU250Ca8iPsDhtYl3fWcQsE2MeMqScIfQFdTYrtnFkoHPxPh6LDPqKNyUC2sWcdwPP2utgFYb%2Bsaz3Cq225FslDCHSfKS594bAVZATdIb%2FmQpPhGMsQGEl2cCr%2FZUtH%2B8jyi1%2Bra7zhWZDKU3UtiQTObFA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM5suDvrRg
As AMD the Car Care Nut mentioned, Toyota Pink Coolant is just about the same price as aftermarket ones. Use original-this coming from a Toyota Master Diagnostic Technician
@@kimoclyde Link for what? I didn't have links for anything, only Toyota part numbers. You can get the parts from a dealer or search for them online. I just noticed the link you were referring to. That was the link I bought mine through. Just do a search on eBay for them and I'm sure there are other sellers.
@@kimoclyde A quick search pulled up many sellers! www.ebay.com/itm/265451571170?epid=2010059751&hash=item3dce2587e2:g:tFgAAOSwmNJht~un&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsFyUG6ep6zLDir1KbZa2ExpSKgNhIfB5VIHGIry0CdAPJnNtZDnW2Tzmb3R9hmGm09lQQdEAxMQnbDxDi4VIZHMB0Xqi1anz%2BJatYk4Dp7fKdqFYkiWDdih8CqY6%2BZB4czRw5C%2FrJL1qAgZSR8qMUE2vLH0Toq8KpOZf4sd9m63QhJ1%2F2rrqwUxU2qcv8dMSDPYvQTRQlj9UEHg2j2IqFVOSDCbiwUOMpqLWH3SrMvh7%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5ad99KpYQ
I want to replace my intake mani, EGR valve, cooler, and PCV.. any idea how long it would take to do it all? Need to estimate down town since I need my car, thank you!
If you have basic mechanical skills you can do that all in a day. If you take your time or give yourself extra time you could do it in a weekend if you want to split the work over 2 days.
Great Video. I see that you installed an oil catch can. I'm trying to determine where you ran the lines to and from the oil catch can. Do you have a video of the installation of the oil catch can on your Toyota Prius? If not, could you please provide your line routing from the PCV Valve to oil catch can and from the oil catch can to the intake manifold? Thanks.
Thanks! I did the OCC install before I started this channel, but if you look at this video at the 18:16 point the camera shows the PCV valve and that tubing runs to the input of the OCC, From the output of the OCC it runs back to the intake. That tube is sitting on top of the PCV valve since I removed the intake manifold. Here is a video when I installed an OCC on my 2017 Corolla iM. The PCV valve and intake connection are in the same locations so the tubing just runs to where you mount the OCC. This is in a different location but the process is the same. th-cam.com/video/90nZTeLG7rw/w-d-xo.html
@@jimsgaragetoys Thanks for the quick response. I see that you ran both the inlet and outlet lines for the oil catch can in front of the Inverter/Converter. With that being said; did you run the lines above or below the radiator coiling fans? After looking at my 2014 Toyota Prius I see that their is not allot of room between the Inverter/Converter and the front chassis/support of the vehicle. However, I do like the routing of your oil catch can hoses in comparison to other TH-cam Video's that I've seen with installing oil catch cans on 3rd Gen Prius's. I do have one more question; do oil catch can lines emit heat? Thank You Again.
@@genei5549 The lines loop from in front of the inverter near the top and lay along the middle part of the fan. The fan has plastic protectors that prevent the tubing from even touching the fan blades. They then turn toward the engine, one to the intake and one to the PCV valve. I have never noticed any heat that would be considered hot. The tubing I used is pretty thick rubber.
@@jimsgaragetoys Thank you again for the quick response. When you installed the OCC on your Toyota Prius did you install steel wool in the bottom of the OCC? I just received the OCC from Amazon and it came with steel wool. Thanks again!
@@genei5549 Yes, the OCC that I used for the Prius needed steel wool since it doesn't have a baffle in it. In my other cars I used the Mishimoto design that comes with a baffle so no steel wool was needed. I needed an OCC that had straight in/out lines due to where it would be mounted.
Do you think a this is doable by a regular person that is not a do it yourself mechanic? What's the difficulty of changing the manifold and EGR? Thank you
None of it is hard but if you have no mechanical experience it could be a challenge. There are some tricky parts and most people won't have all the right tools that are needed. If you have the right tools and follow videos on TH-cam it could be done. I would say it would be nice to have a friend do it with you that has more mechanical experience for the first go at it.
If you haven't cleaned out the EGR cooler I would remove both and clean the cooler too. I had recently cleaned my EGR cooler so that gave me the option of blowing it out. It looked pretty clean still as it hadn't been long since I had cleaned it.
I worked on this today and it's super hard and I haven't taken out the nut of death. There's a black hose right next to it. What is that? Did you take that out? I think if I take that out, it;ll give me a little more room. Thanks.
Thanks for the question. It shouldn't be overly difficult if you follow along with what I did, it's just nuts and bolts but they can all be reached okay, except the nut of death. 🤣 There are several hoses that end up being in the way at one time or another but if I didn't remove it in the video then I didn't. I'm not sure what black hose is the exact one you are referring to. Can you point it out in the video and give me a minute mark of when it appears? I'm getting ready to do this again and swap in the cleaned parts I have ready and I'm going to do another video in the chance that I do something a different way that is easier to understand, better, or just at another angle. I try to be very through and not leave out any steps.
@@jimsgaragetoys Hi Jim. After spending few hours, I was able to get the nut of death out along with the stud without having to remove any hoses. I must say, my socket wrench had to manuever over and under various hoses and trying to get the socket slide. It was very difficult to me. Once I took the cooler out, I got my drommel and removed the bottom flange so that I won't have to reinstall the nightmare again. Hopefully nothing will catch when I put it back. This is the biggest auto project I committed to my wife. 1) clean the EGR cooler, 2) replace EGR valve 3) take out the intake manifold and clean each port, 4) replace PCV valve, 5) clean throttle body, 6) clean each intake port and the valves, 7) replace fuel injectors, 8) install new spark plugs. The easiest part will be installing the new fuel injectors and spark plugs. I figure since all these parts are taken out, might as well do these now. I really appreciate your video and it helped me out a lot. Thank you.
@@Sagemeister007 Awesome! So happy to hear that you did it! It will be easier now anytime since you've done it once and you don't have to mess with the nut off death again! Great job! I would highly recommend installing an oil catch can with everything off since you are replacing the PCV valve as it helps keep the intake cleaner. It's so easy to do with the intake manifold removed. Why are you replacing your fuel injectors? Are they bad? How many miles on your Prius?
@@jimsgaragetoys It has 260k miles and since everything is open I wanted to replace the fuel injectors. Also oil catch can, how do like it? Do you notice OCC catching oil and how often you drain out the can? Any brand you recommend? Thank you.
@@Sagemeister007 I like having it and it does help. I empty it every 5k miles when I change the oil. It was shown to make a big difference in testing shown on Priuschat forum. I have one like this on several of my cars and it works well. www.amazon.com/SPEEDWOW-Micron-Bronze-Baffled-Universal/dp/B086H9SSG1/ref=sr_1_13?crid=22OODIXD8987X&keywords=oil%2Bcatch%2Bcan&qid=1707790992&s=automotive&sprefix=oil%2Bcatch%2Bcan%2Cautomotive%2C278&sr=1-13&th=1
Hi. I just bought a 2010 prius with 147 000 miles on it yesterday. The guy told me that he doesn't think the erg / egr cooler or manifold haven ever been replaced. I don't know a lot about cars but I'm concerned about the health my vehicle... Some people recommended me to look into the egr valve / cooler / manifold in an order to not destroy the head gasket.... Is it bad if the egr, egr cooler and manifold never been replaced after 13 years and 147 200 miles ? Anyway! Thank you for that amazing video.
not bad at all if you address soon, but you are nearing the limits of where it would become a problem. If the car hasnt thrown a misfire you are scraping by - but I'd do it soon and at least the water pump if you have not done so already.
@@Fahmbo I have done the egr , manifold cleaning few hundredths miles after having bought the car as well as replacing the water pump and the pcv valve :)
Looks like a #2 Philips head screwdriver. Japan built cars though use a different pitch so you might want to pick up a set of screwdrivers for Japan built cars. www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=japanese+screwdriver+set&qid=1689037559&sr=8-6
@@jimsgaragetoys can you post your local dealer info, need to buy one and here in south Florida they want $268... thank you for the video and the info!
That bolt really is the bolt from HELL and for that alone Toyota should be punished. But I will go a step further. Gen 3 Prius clogged EGR equals blown head gasket equals catastrophic failure at 160,000 miles just outside of recall bulletin. Toyo has destroyed their reputation, all the gas savings is gone - they are no longer a reliable company.
I wouldn't say it's not reliable as many Gen3 Prius will go 500k miles or more. The key is cleaning the EGR cooler, replacing or trying to clean the EGR valve, cleaning the intake manifold and replacing the PCV valve. If you do this every 75-100k miles you should be in excellent condition for a very long time while avoiding any head gasket issues. If you install an oil catch can when you replace the PCV valve you can also help prevent issues while also helping to keep your intake manifold cleaner. Bottom line, maintenance is key.
@@jimsgaragetoys I have had dozens of cars for which cleaning the egr wasn't a scheduled maintenance item. By the time the average layman figures out to add this to a maintenance schedule it is too late and the damage is done. Thanks for the video though. When I get this work done the car will go up for sale and I will be done with Prius - back to old reliable ice only Camrys for me.
@@ddmercantile As long as people get the service done at Toyota they will just replace parts. Hopefully people try to learn about their car so they know what needs to be done. I do understand the beauty of a straight ICE engine though as my 4 cars are all ICE engines with a manual transmission.
Sorry about the delay to your question but I had to find the boxes! The EGR Valve Kit is Toyota part # 04004-58137 and the intake manifold is # 17120-37054
They are all over Amazon in various colors and prices. I don't see the exact ones I bought a couple years back but here is something similar. www.amazon.com/MOTORHEAD-Super-Grip-Silicone-4-Piece/dp/B0B79QNHWW/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2QYSBX4268WMH&keywords=silicone+auto+work+trays&qid=1698652238&s=automotive&sprefix=silicone+auto+work+trays%2Cautomotive%2C203&sr=1-8
For the bolt from hell... Why not cut an opening on the mounting tab of the cooler, thread the bolt back on the engine side and when it comes time to reinstall the cooler, the mounting tab would simply slide over the bolt and all you'd have to do is tighten it?
That could work but it's so hard to reach the nut that I will choose to not hassle with it. It's really not needed to hold anything in place. Once you remove it you will see that it's very secure without it too. Thanks for the idea though as some people might like the idea!
My experience WD-40 liberal application, 3/8 tekton deep socket set 12mm you can't use too big socket. It's an exact fit to get to that bolt from there flex head 3/8 and you will get it with patience
Thanks, and yes, I know. If I said it wrong at some point, opps, my bad! I've heard many people make the same mistake even when we all know what it is. I found the original springs clamps to be a little loose so I used a better hose clamp for better clamping power. Better is never a bad thing! I've installed an OCC on many cars over the years with excellent results.
I cleaned the EGR cooler and intake manifold so I have a clean one ready to go when I need to swap them again. I haven't looked at cleaning the EGR valve yet since it didn't look like a straight up process.
@@edwinbab705 Part of it has wiring and contacts inside of it so I haven't looked inside to see if that was an issue. It wasn't a super expensive part to buy though and I knew that a new EGR valve was better than cleaning one.The other parts are easier to know you cleaned then well.
Why you take out too much things that look like we don’t need to take off that part, like intake manifold ? If we have some good tools we can take off just egr vales that we don’t need take off wipes and intake manifold ,
The intake manifold needs to be cleaned too. There are very small passages from the EGR system that get plugged and have to be changed. I decided to change the parts out so I could later clean the parts and have them ready to go at a later time to swap again. This way I always have a clean part when needed to swap again.
That had already been done at a previous service when I installed the Oil Catch Can. I will be swapping the dirty intake manifold, EGR cooler, and EGR valve for the clean ones I have ready to go very soon. I also have a new PCV valve for it at that time. My plan is to also replace the water pump at that service too.
Well it's hard to show with a camera since I couldn't even see it. I could feel it with my hand. I had to just fiddle around with it for quite some time. A tip for getting it off it to remove the entire stud. It protrudes much farther than the nut and was easier to get a socket around. Keep in mind that it takes special female torx socket to remove the stud. It's the same size stud and nut that is easily reached between the EGR valve and cooler. I thought that I had talked about this in the video. Sorry if I didn't make it clear.
@@jimsgaragetoys hey man i'm planning to do this in a couple days. and I just wanna be clear on your comment. you used the E8 socket to remove the entire stud INSTEAD OF the actual bolt?? Besides the e8 socket, what else did you use? Since I haven't tackled the job yet It's hard to think of what you may need so i'm just trying to make sure i have my shit together
@@niveKOnBass I tried to remove the nut but it was much harder the get to the nut since it is farther back on tested. Then I thought why not just remove the entire stud? The end of the stud can be reached much easier than the nut so that's what I did and it worked beautifully!
@@niveKOnBass I got this reply from you and wanted to thank you for the kind words but when I went to reply I couldn't find it. I'm not sure where it went but thank you anyway. Your quote was "I just want to say that I am grateful for you and your video. Yours has been superior to the other 47 i've watched. The camera work was excellent. The explaining was excellent. The talking was all useful. No stupid fluff and stories that I never asked for. No extra bullshit. I don't need to watch you unscrew bolts, I know how to do that (unless it's a tough bolt). It was done perfectly."
@@jimsgaragetoys For whatever reason my comments keep getting deleted :p. no idea why youtube doesn't like me. It's not your channel so dw. but yeah man it's better in every way. Explanations and angles and stuff. Very good. Also you used freakin power tools. Omg I hate watching someone remove shit by hand lol im changing my spark plugs right now just taking a break at the moment. but I got a look/feel of the bolt in question and I was wondering if there's a possibility of this stud actually shearing off if you try to loosen it with the nut on? was it really tight? I tried it on the close up bolt and it seemed like it was gonna break so im hesitant a little bit. What tools did you use? I don't have one of those long slim electric screwdrivers you have, can I loosen it by hand? I'm sure I can get a swivel socket on it or somethin
Thanks for the opinion but what's confusing? I take my time to show everything that needs to be done. I looked at many videos and they were all skipping over things and not showing everything that needed to be done. I didn't want to go from A to M to Z like many videos did. I wanted to be able to help people do this that had never done it before and I've had a lot of people say it helped them a lot so I'm confused as to what is extra BS and how I'm not being straightforward? I'm asking in a genuine manner since I'm not sure what you are referring about. If I can improve them I'm all up for that to help others so any feedback is welcome if you can be more concise.
@@jimsgaragetoys by the way just because Im the first to mention it doesnt mean there arent other viewers before me or after me me that havent noticed it and their ocd didnt kick in 🤔😊🫡
Step by step guide, clearly documented. SO well done, and so so helpful!
Glad it was helpful! I do try to be very clear to help out others to be able to do it themselves.
I just following your video and do my car. The pipe, cooler and intake manifold can be clean satisfactory with Berry man chem dip with plug the openings. Egr can be clean but the black motor can be bad some time.
What an excellent video Jim. You nailed it in every aspect :)
Thank you very much, I appreciate it.
I'll make sure to follow this video when I do mine soon. Nice AW11 ;)
Thanks! Glad that this video will help you!
Smart and clean work - really appreciate it!
Thank you, I hope that it helps!
From one Ram fan to another….great job!
Always happy to meet other Ram fans!! 😍
Beautifully explained
Thanks! I appreciate it.
Excellent video. Thank you!
Thanks, I appreciate it.
I saw your other question and tried to reply but then realized that it was deleted. This one.....
"After I replaced the EGR valve and Mass Air Pressure sensor on the intake manifold, and cleaned the manifold and throttle body, I got 4 check engine lights . 1) P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow a Circuit Low, 2) P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High, 3) P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Low, 4) P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High. I replaced the Mass Air Pressure Sensor on the intake manifold. I tried to erase the codes using my OBDII but these wouldn't erase. Did you have similar problem after you went for a drive? Thanks."
Did you figure it out?
@@jimsgaragetoys yes. I forgot to connect the mass air sensor. No more check engine light.
@@Sagemeister007 That will do it!! 🤣 Glad it was a simple fix.
At 160K miles and no EGR issues yet. Still getting 52 on the highway. I am going to deep soak (purple power over night) my intake and cooler in the next couple of wks...and clean out EGR valve.
I've seen a yota tech on youtube saying to download software after changing EGR? I think it's the way he's been trained. I see that you did not. Thx for the vid.
I've never seen anything about EGR software updates. I never had any issues but I didn't want to wait for them either.
@@jimsgaragetoys 3k more miles since my work and all is well.
I do the same: buy an extra used intakemanifold and EGR-cooler and make sure they are really clean. You don't have to hurry because you have an extra set. I soaked it in diesel, but that didn't work satisfactory. Ovencleaner works a lot better and faster. If possible: get the EGR-cooler off and clean it, or replace with a cleaned one, that way everything is done. Doing this makes your Prius, Auris or Corolla hybrid last forever without headgasketproblems or rattling or troublecodes
Yep, that was my thinking too. In fact I need to swap them out again.
@@jimsgaragetoys it's not easy to acces, but when you 're finished, you will be happy, because everything is clean then
that, and dont forget to replace water pump and thermostat - those two parts could fail and take the head gasket as well!
@@Fahmbo done
@@Fahmbo The water pump will show signs before failing. I don't normally replace parts just in case. I'll replace it soon but I won't do it every 75-80k miles when I clean the parts in the EGR system.
Thanks So Much!!!
I'm happy that it helped!
That bolt from hell is actually a nut and the removal of the bolt requiring the 8mm star reverse socket. You should have shown that hardest part of the job in your video. Everything else is easy to remove. There are a bunch of parts that needs to be dismantled from the throttle body, intake runners, EGR valve and the cooler needs to be thoroughly cleaned which you did not show at all.
That is true. Most people don't have the right star socket to remove the stud but it's easier to remove the stud with the nut still on it than try to remove the nut first. I had replaced the EGR cooler prior to starting my channel so I'll do a video on that the next time it comes up. This video was more about replacing the EGR valve and intake manifold. No I have all the original parts that can be cleaned and ready to be swapped back in down to road easily and quickly. I did show how to remove the intake and explain what I was doing as I went along. I've been thanked by many others as I try to do these videos and explain what I'm doing as I do it. I'm still learning how to make every video better though as I'm new to this video making stuff. 😉😎
@@jimsgaragetoys Yes indeed easier to loosen the nut first then tackle the bolt. That bolt from hell should be addressed on video since it's impossible to remove that cooler any other way.
@@brucewayne2773 It's one of those things that is hard to show but just explaining it can help people understand what it involved. That way when they attack it they quickly see the issue but at least they have a heads up.
Thanks for the step by step. Please run your audio through compression. When you use your drill it is so loud. Lol. All love.
Thanks. I'm still learning my way around making the videos as I'm not a computer guy, I prefer to work with wrenches. 😂 I'm glad it helped you, sorry about the drill sounds.
Great thorough step by step video! I just bought a 2014 and I don’t see that EGR or water pump have been addressed. Car has 180k mikes. 6:37 Which would you recommend doing first?
The EGR cooler and EGR valve are must service items. The water pump doesn't need replacing if it works. I'm not a huge believer in replacing parts that are working. If you want to buy a spare water pump to have on hand that would be okay but I wouldn't replace a working part.
After you installed the new EGR Valve and Intake Manifold, did you have to do a Software Update to the vehicles computer with Techstream (as referenced in TH-cam Video Titled "Toyota EGR Diagnosis Tips and Repair Tips")?
Good question, but no. Nothing was needed to be done. The car runs great and I wouldn't think that replacing the EGR valve would need a software update if the EGR valve was changed before it was all gunned up and not working properly. That's the whole point of doing the service before the EGR system gets plugged up.
Great Video. Where did you get that flash light? LED bar?? I need to get one for my tool box.
Thanks.
I bought it from Eastwood tools years ago. Check out Eastwood.com
This will be the most extensive work i've attempted on the prius. Only done my oil changes so far, planning to replace coolant and transmission fluid soon too but that's pretty straight forward. While I have all this stuff taken apart to clean the EGR, is there anything else I should do? I'm at 93k miles and 10 years, I was planning to also change the engine coolant pump. I was thinking to replace the PCV valve since it's like $5 and it will be easy to get to during EGR cleaning. I'm assuming it's way too early to replace the spark plugs? Not sure if it matters but I'm in California and almost always use top tier gas.
Yes, I would replace the PCV valve and install an oil catch can as that helps the Prius a lot. I'm at 155k miles and my water pump is still fine. I'm thinking of replacing it around 175k miles. I hate replacing parts that are working just fine. This is a little time consuming but if you take your time you will be fine. Cleaning the parts out, especially the EGR cooler can take soon time though. I made a video on cleaning them out not that long ago too. It sounds like you have an idea of what needs to be done. feel free to ask with any other questions.
Noticed you have catch can installed. How much oil is being trapped between what mileage interval? Also if do you think the catch is necessary if you are having to swap intake manifold, EGR valve, and EGR cooler every 50k miles as you planned to?
Good question. I installed the oil catch can before I decided to just buy new parts to be able to clean and swap them. I empty it every 5k miles when I change the oil. I installed it after seeing that it was very beneficial for a Prius on PriusChat. I've never measured the amount that it catches but it catches enough that I don't want it dunking up my intake manifold.
I cleaned space under the throttle body at 80,000kms and there was just a very thin film of oil on it. Think the oil catch can is a waste as you should just replace the PCV valve every 100,000kms or so. It’s just cost a few dollars
@@yslee1401 An oil catch can won't do anything but help. There are a lot of people on PriusChat that have shown that it can be a big plus for a Prius. Changing the PCV valve won't prevent the crude from being returned up into the intake manifold and gunking things up faster. I know that the crud that mind catches doesn't get returned to muck up things. You also checked yours at 50k miles which isn't much. Many Prius owners never check and clean things out until they have issues. The best defense is to install an OCC and still clean things out every 75k miles for a long, healthy Prius life.
Nice job. I did the same plus new pcv valve. And oil catch can plus keep oil level halfway between full and add. 2012 then one cold Feb morning still got the cold start rattle. Just made the 10 year or 150k egr warr enhancement from dealer. They replace EGR valve plus update the EGR software. ZF3? No more rattle. Suggest having dealer do your software update after your new valve. Per car care nut EGR video.
Thanks for the tip. I did have the dealer do the EGR software update. Mine was past the date to have them replace the EGR valve so that's why I did it myself. I've never experienced the rattle but did the maintenance anyway. I replace the PCV valve 2 years ago and installed an oil catch can at that point too.
They replace the whole egr unit for you? Would cleaning the egr be enough? Because I think I pass the warranty
@@bicyclekikz14 I replaced the EGR valve, EGR cooler and intake manifold. This way I could take my time and clean everything better. I can then swap the parts right away and get the car back to my wife without delays and have clean parts ready to swap on at any time.
@@jimsgaragetoys good idea
@@bicyclekikz14 Getting these parts clean the right way can take some time so this will let me clean them the right way without being in a rush.
You are pro level man! I really like your plan of having parts ready to go! Way less down time. I have a 2015 gen 3 plug in . My question is since there is a warranty on EGR related issues up to 150 k mi should I wait till I approach 150 k miles or would you recommend I start with swapping out new parts now and head off any problems? ( also adding a catch can!) Would really appreciate your advice! Are you going to make a video on how you approach cleaning intake, EGR cooler and valve?
Thanks. I realized how long it could take to properly clean the parts so always taking my time to clean a 2nd set made sense and have them ready for the next swap. I checked about the recall but the dealer told me that it was 150k miles or 10 years so I was beyond the time frame. You would be under both so check and see if a dealer can do it for free this time. Maybe they would give you the old parts so you could have them ready for the next time when you swap them again. The catch can is simple to install. The PCV valve is in the same location as my 2017 Corolla iM and I did a video for that install. I located the OCC in a different location but the install is the same. Maybe this video can help you. th-cam.com/video/90nZTeLG7rw/w-d-xo.html
Hi Leo Lee. I just bought a 2010 prius with 147 000 miles on it yesterday. The guy told me that he doesn't think the erg / egr cooler or manifold haven ever been replaced. Is it bad? Do you think Toyota will change the egr for free since the car has less than 150 000 miles? Thank you!
@@DrumPeearl I don't know why they would replace them since they are items that need regular maintenance. That being said, there's nothing that prevents you from replacing them yourself. The other option is to remove them, clean the parts, are reinstall them.
Where you able to get done under warranty recall from the dealer?
Hey Jim, I'm working with a 2011 Prius that rattles on start. The last owner experienced the same thing and replaced the Intake manifold and cleaned the PVC pipe (not sure what that is). But they referred us to your video where I'm commenting. My question is - if we think the EGR cooler and EGR valve have never been replace on a high mileage prius, should we replace them or try and clean them?
Try to clean them, for sure, no need to replace. But also violent rattling on cold start is one of the indicators of a blown head gasket on this car so you can do egr cleaning but also test for compression in cylinders to make sure it isn’t a head gasket issue
Fantastic video! Thank you, about to do this job tmo, using toyota parts. Maybe I missed it, but what is your method and tools used for cleaning the ports on the manifold and egr cooler? Thanks again, best video Ive seen on this!
Thank you very much! I appreciate it. I did show cleaning the parts as I didn't do it at the time since I was using new parts to replace the dirty ones. I used some small wire brushes to clean out my intake manifold passages with plenty of soaking in degreaser and brake cleaner. There are a lot of excellent degreasers that will work well, just pick one and soak it. I would then use the wire brushes to clean the passages and intake. The EGR cooler is also cleaned the same way and since you can't use a brush on it just soak, spray, rinse and repeat until looking new. I used this type. www.amazon.com/Stainless-Brushes-Cleaning-Removal-Scrubbing/dp/B092Z9JVNF/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.14a246c3-7a62-40bf-bdd0-5ac67c2a1913%3Aamzn1.sym.14a246c3-7a62-40bf-bdd0-5ac67c2a1913&cv_ct_cx=metal+brushes+for+cleaning+rust&keywords=metal+brushes+for+cleaning+rust&pd_rd_i=B092Z9JVNF&pd_rd_r=3a44a6fb-7966-4fe5-baca-10f908e07e83&pd_rd_w=KfFDQ&pd_rd_wg=7gisd&pf_rd_p=14a246c3-7a62-40bf-bdd0-5ac67c2a1913&pf_rd_r=G68Q8R31TXFDAC03A73G&qid=1673736562&sr=1-2-a73d1c8c-2fd2-4f19-aa41-2df022bcb241-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyME1VSkZSTFVLNlNZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTcxOTIzM1ZWUEpBMFpSNkY2WSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzcxNTIxMk5GNzVTOVlCR1FJRSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3NlYXJjaF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I also used these for the small passages in the intake manifold. www.amazon.com/Bottle-Stainless-Bristle-PMD-Products/dp/B007S91ND4/ref=sr_1_7_sspa?crid=B9I9QMBX247Q&keywords=small+wire+brush&qid=1673736793&s=industrial&sprefix=small+%2Cindustrial%2C156&sr=1-7-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTDdGM0QzNEpXQUhNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDE2MjY4MUc4OFFGTkRFM1hJOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODYwMTEwMkFUVjRBTjM4UE40WiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
@@jimsgaragetoys thanks again! Just got everything apart, the rear nuts holding the cooler were the toughest part. Probably need new metal gaskets, and some hose clamps.
Bear of a job, but saving a grand works for me! Couldnt have done it without your video, thanks again!
@@Nissan300zxshowcar Good job!! I actually laid over the engine and reaching those nuts was pretty easy with my left hand.
Hi Jims! Thanks for that excellent video! I just got a 2010 prius with 147 200 miles on it and saw that it was highly recommended to clean the egr system (egr valve and cooler) as well as the manifold and it can avoid major issues such as misfire engine or head gasket issues. I am not handy at all but I don't have $500 to throw to a mechanic, in addition I want to do it the best as I can and have the control of the cleaning process of the part.
How long would it take for someone that never took done so many parts?
What do you advice to use to clean the egr, erg cooler and the manifold? (brands / type of product? Or tools?)
Can it be cleaned in few minutes or couple hours that way I can reassemble everything in the same day?
I would like to avoid costly parts. I have seen a lot of reviews of handy person saying that all the parts can be cleaned and reused.
Ultimately, do you think cleaning it would prevent the failure of the head gasket?
Thank you so much!
Thank you very much! I try to do my videos so people like you that have little to no experience can do it themselves. I would give yourself a full day to get everything off, cleaned, and back on. This way you can take your time. If you have a weekend that will allow you even more time to do it. I could replace the pats in a few hours now that I've done it.
To clean the parts there are all kinds of choices. For the intake manifold you will need to use degreasers and long wire brushes of various sizes. Amazon sells a variety pack of wire brushes for cheap. If you have a large plastic container you can soak the intake manifold to let the degreaser work. Brake cleaner always works for the small holes. You will want to get new gaskets for the intake manifold and replace them.
I've seen many things used for the EGR cooler and EGR valve including carb and brake spray cleaners and many of the all around cleaners from dozens of things claiming they will clean anything. You need to make sure the EGR cooler is clean and you will be able to see through it so it's very easy to tell. I didn't clean my EGR valve yet so I'm not sure about it. I bought a new one and haven't messed with the old one.
@@jimsgaragetoys thank you Jim! I have watched the video again and I am not sure if I'll be able to do all the labor, it looks really tricky. I am looking for someone that has knowledge to do it in Orlando area, FL for a reasonable price... I can't justify paying $500 to have a garage doing it...
@@DrumPeearl Have you met anyone else from FB Prius groups or Prius forums? It's usually pretty easy to find others that are willing to help out. I've done that over the years with many different car groups and we help each other out when possible.
One to 2 days I think!
Does your wrench have an impact function or is it strong enough to remove tight bolts?
I have multiple ones that I use depending on the usage and torque needed. I have a good selection of Milwaukee tools in both the M12 and M18 battery sizes. The 3/8" M12 one I use a lot has no impact function but works well on most 10mm, 12, and 14mm bolts.
Few days ago I drove my car and after 20 minutes and I got a check engine light with code P0441. I cleared it and drove again today. I now have P0441, P0300, P0302, P0304. I recently changed all spark plugs, fuel injectors and ran fine. No rattle or slow acceleration or any noise. Could it be the EVAP Purge Valve Solenoid might've triggered the others? First thing I'll do is to replace the Evap purge valve solenoid and see if this solves the problem. Thanks.
The P0441 usually indicates a bad vacuum switch or a leak in the EVAP system that is preventing fuel vapors from reaching the canister. The P0441 code can also indicate a faulty or "stuck" PCV, a short circuit in the feed circuit, or a faulty purge solenoid.
Codes are P0300 (Random Cylinder Misfire), P0302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire), and P0304 (Cylinder 4 Misfire). You can swap coil 1 & 2 and see if the codes follow or stay the same to see if it's a coil or not.
Have you considered adding a port to the EGR tube so you can routinely inject a cleaner into it to keep the whole EGR system clean? I don't own any vehicles with EGR problems, but have contemplated this for a long time for those that do.
Good question but would that work? What cleaner would be used? How would that work to keep the EGR cooler and EGR valve clean since they would be down stream from the tube? It's really not that hard to remove them and replace them with parts that are clean every 75-80k miles which is every 5-7years for most people so it's not that often to take 3 hours to do it and know that the parts are 100% clean.
@@jimsgaragetoys You inject on the inlet side of the EGR cooler/valve and it cleans everything. Seafoam or an intake cleaner should do the job, or just water. It would have to be done with the EGR valve open of course which would require doing it while driving or with a scan tool that can command the EGR valve to open.
@@DonziGT230 The EGR tube is on the outlet side of the EGR valve, on the inlet side of the EGR cooler is the exhaust pipe that attaches to the EGR cooler. I wouldn't want to mess with that and hope that it would work. Changing these parts out only takes me 2-3 hours every 5-7 years so I just don't find it a very big deal and this way I know with 100% certainty that the parts are clean and not hoping that the cleaner worked.
I'm about to do the same for my Prius. Curious... is your new intake manifold the same as the original one? The EGR passage was redesigned on the new version (P/N ending in -54). The new version also has a 1/2 grill gasket on the throttle body. If they are different, was there any issue with performance?
I didn't notice any differences but I've had it for several years. When did the redesign come out? I still have the box so I'll have to look at it. It's tucked away up high with the cleaned parts ready for when I need them again.
@@jimsgaragetoys Not sure when the last version (17120-37054) came out. The service bulletin T-SB 0012-10 issued in 2012 indicates version 17120-37052 was the latest. Version -54 came out later and it has baffles in the main EGR channel. You can see a picture of it in posts #52 and #56 by TeamGeek on PriusChat thread titled "Visual Differences between updated Intake Manifold". Many say it doesn't fix anything. Regular cleaning is still required for the entire EGR Circuit to prevent clogging and cold-start rattling.
@@dezafinado I looked and the one I bought was the latest version, 17120-37054. I didn't notice any visual differences and as you pointed out it still needs to be cleaned.
@@jimsgaragetoys Thanks for the update. I just removed the air filter box, throttle body and EGR pipe for cleaning and inspection. My car is 2015 PiP with the -54 intake, normal cold-starts, 50-52 MPG in Hybrid mode, no oil consumption and no DTCs.
At 66k, the throttle body is clean on the top-side while the bottom had a smear of oil. The butterfly was clean. There was ~2 tablespoons of oil at the bottom of the intake. The EGR pipe (elbow) had about 1.5mm of carbon buildup at the edge of each end but very little inside. I didn't remove the intake, EGR and EGR cooler but the Intake main orifice and EGR orifice have about 1mm buildup so no blockage yet. I plan to remove the entire EGR circuit for cleaning and replace the PCV at 70 or 75k.
Since you have an OCC, do you think it's really effective in reducing oil accumulation at the bottom of the intake? Although I like the idea of having the OCC, I don't want to remove the OCC, the intake, related hoses and put everything back to its original format for Smog Inspection every 2 years. As a maintenance routine, I will remove/clean the throttle body and wipe off the oil in the intake annually. Do you think that's sufficient w/o having aan OCC?
@@dezafinado I think you have a good plan in mind. Why would an OCC not be allowed for smog inspection? As long as it's not a vented OCC it should be fine as the system is still sealed. I know that in testing the OCC was shown to be very effective in the Prius in many ways.
Are those aftermarket (blue) coolant hoses? If so, what brand and where did you source them?
Good eye! Yes, they are HPS silicone radiator hoses. Here is the link. www.ebay.com/itm/374109620543?fits=Year%3A2010%7CModel%3APrius&epid=2010059751&hash=item571aabc93f:g:Z4cAAOSwI8ximEEG&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8AApHMkpiUxCez2dwGyiZy5eI%2ByGuAjDzf5Pk%2FyNeP4XdwNDmidCVSYYjAFHa%2B1aLDdl4HGR%2FPM%2BgWfD6in8ob6GrEResp5pw%2F30ILotEHmfDerirC21UhA6u7qZ7eaGzVxwAHKo57GN%2FGUw1g6Hfj5D%2FEXTaWFtxRxWyao5qU250Ca8iPsDhtYl3fWcQsE2MeMqScIfQFdTYrtnFkoHPxPh6LDPqKNyUC2sWcdwPP2utgFYb%2Bsaz3Cq225FslDCHSfKS594bAVZATdIb%2FmQpPhGMsQGEl2cCr%2FZUtH%2B8jyi1%2Bra7zhWZDKU3UtiQTObFA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM5suDvrRg
As AMD the Car Care Nut mentioned, Toyota Pink Coolant is just about the same price as aftermarket ones. Use original-this coming from a Toyota Master Diagnostic Technician
@@jimsgaragetoysLink no longer good.
@@kimoclyde Link for what? I didn't have links for anything, only Toyota part numbers. You can get the parts from a dealer or search for them online.
I just noticed the link you were referring to. That was the link I bought mine through. Just do a search on eBay for them and I'm sure there are other sellers.
@@kimoclyde A quick search pulled up many sellers! www.ebay.com/itm/265451571170?epid=2010059751&hash=item3dce2587e2:g:tFgAAOSwmNJht~un&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsFyUG6ep6zLDir1KbZa2ExpSKgNhIfB5VIHGIry0CdAPJnNtZDnW2Tzmb3R9hmGm09lQQdEAxMQnbDxDi4VIZHMB0Xqi1anz%2BJatYk4Dp7fKdqFYkiWDdih8CqY6%2BZB4czRw5C%2FrJL1qAgZSR8qMUE2vLH0Toq8KpOZf4sd9m63QhJ1%2F2rrqwUxU2qcv8dMSDPYvQTRQlj9UEHg2j2IqFVOSDCbiwUOMpqLWH3SrMvh7%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5ad99KpYQ
I want to replace my intake mani, EGR valve, cooler, and PCV.. any idea how long it would take to do it all? Need to estimate down town since I need my car, thank you!
If you have basic mechanical skills you can do that all in a day. If you take your time or give yourself extra time you could do it in a weekend if you want to split the work over 2 days.
@@jimsgaragetoys Appreciate it, thank you so much! :) Btw,, have you done the piston soak? I lose about a quart of oil every tank :(
@@juanifico I haven't done that as I lose no oil in between my 5k mile oil changes. As soon as I see any oil loss I will do the soak ASAP.
Great Video. I see that you installed an oil catch can. I'm trying to determine where you ran the lines to and from the oil catch can. Do you have a video of the installation of the oil catch can on your Toyota Prius? If not, could you please provide your line routing from the PCV Valve to oil catch can and from the oil catch can to the intake manifold? Thanks.
Thanks! I did the OCC install before I started this channel, but if you look at this video at the 18:16 point the camera shows the PCV valve and that tubing runs to the input of the OCC, From the output of the OCC it runs back to the intake. That tube is sitting on top of the PCV valve since I removed the intake manifold. Here is a video when I installed an OCC on my 2017 Corolla iM. The PCV valve and intake connection are in the same locations so the tubing just runs to where you mount the OCC. This is in a different location but the process is the same. th-cam.com/video/90nZTeLG7rw/w-d-xo.html
@@jimsgaragetoys Thanks for the quick response. I see that you ran both the inlet and outlet lines for the oil catch can in front of the Inverter/Converter. With that being said; did you run the lines above or below the radiator coiling fans? After looking at my 2014 Toyota Prius I see that their is not allot of room between the Inverter/Converter and the front chassis/support of the vehicle. However, I do like the routing of your oil catch can hoses in comparison to other TH-cam Video's that I've seen with installing oil catch cans on 3rd Gen Prius's. I do have one more question; do oil catch can lines emit heat? Thank You Again.
@@genei5549 The lines loop from in front of the inverter near the top and lay along the middle part of the fan. The fan has plastic protectors that prevent the tubing from even touching the fan blades. They then turn toward the engine, one to the intake and one to the PCV valve.
I have never noticed any heat that would be considered hot. The tubing I used is pretty thick rubber.
@@jimsgaragetoys Thank you again for the quick response. When you installed the OCC on your Toyota Prius did you install steel wool in the bottom of the OCC? I just received the OCC from Amazon and it came with steel wool. Thanks again!
@@genei5549 Yes, the OCC that I used for the Prius needed steel wool since it doesn't have a baffle in it. In my other cars I used the Mishimoto design that comes with a baffle so no steel wool was needed. I needed an OCC that had straight in/out lines due to where it would be mounted.
Do you think a this is doable by a regular person that is not a do it yourself mechanic? What's the difficulty of changing the manifold and EGR? Thank you
None of it is hard but if you have no mechanical experience it could be a challenge. There are some tricky parts and most people won't have all the right tools that are needed. If you have the right tools and follow videos on TH-cam it could be done. I would say it would be nice to have a friend do it with you that has more mechanical experience for the first go at it.
@@jimsgaragetoys Thank you
Soy your saying you can leave the existing EGR cooler in place but disconnected and just blow it out in place?
If you haven't cleaned out the EGR cooler I would remove both and clean the cooler too. I had recently cleaned my EGR cooler so that gave me the option of blowing it out. It looked pretty clean still as it hadn't been long since I had cleaned it.
I worked on this today and it's super hard and I haven't taken out the nut of death. There's a black hose right next to it. What is that? Did you take that out? I think if I take that out, it;ll give me a little more room. Thanks.
Thanks for the question. It shouldn't be overly difficult if you follow along with what I did, it's just nuts and bolts but they can all be reached okay, except the nut of death. 🤣 There are several hoses that end up being in the way at one time or another but if I didn't remove it in the video then I didn't. I'm not sure what black hose is the exact one you are referring to. Can you point it out in the video and give me a minute mark of when it appears? I'm getting ready to do this again and swap in the cleaned parts I have ready and I'm going to do another video in the chance that I do something a different way that is easier to understand, better, or just at another angle. I try to be very through and not leave out any steps.
@@jimsgaragetoys Hi Jim. After spending few hours, I was able to get the nut of death out along with the stud without having to remove any hoses. I must say, my socket wrench had to manuever over and under various hoses and trying to get the socket slide. It was very difficult to me. Once I took the cooler out, I got my drommel and removed the bottom flange so that I won't have to reinstall the nightmare again. Hopefully nothing will catch when I put it back. This is the biggest auto project I committed to my wife. 1) clean the EGR cooler, 2) replace EGR valve 3) take out the intake manifold and clean each port, 4) replace PCV valve, 5) clean throttle body, 6) clean each intake port and the valves, 7) replace fuel injectors, 8) install new spark plugs. The easiest part will be installing the new fuel injectors and spark plugs. I figure since all these parts are taken out, might as well do these now. I really appreciate your video and it helped me out a lot.
Thank you.
@@Sagemeister007 Awesome! So happy to hear that you did it! It will be easier now anytime since you've done it once and you don't have to mess with the nut off death again! Great job! I would highly recommend installing an oil catch can with everything off since you are replacing the PCV valve as it helps keep the intake cleaner. It's so easy to do with the intake manifold removed. Why are you replacing your fuel injectors? Are they bad? How many miles on your Prius?
@@jimsgaragetoys It has 260k miles and since everything is open I wanted to replace the fuel injectors. Also oil catch can, how do like it? Do you notice OCC catching oil and how often you drain out the can? Any brand you recommend? Thank you.
@@Sagemeister007 I like having it and it does help. I empty it every 5k miles when I change the oil. It was shown to make a big difference in testing shown on Priuschat forum. I have one like this on several of my cars and it works well. www.amazon.com/SPEEDWOW-Micron-Bronze-Baffled-Universal/dp/B086H9SSG1/ref=sr_1_13?crid=22OODIXD8987X&keywords=oil%2Bcatch%2Bcan&qid=1707790992&s=automotive&sprefix=oil%2Bcatch%2Bcan%2Cautomotive%2C278&sr=1-13&th=1
Hi. I just bought a 2010 prius with 147 000 miles on it yesterday. The guy told me that he doesn't think the erg / egr cooler or manifold haven ever been replaced. I don't know a lot about cars but I'm concerned about the health my vehicle... Some people recommended me to look into the egr valve / cooler / manifold in an order to not destroy the head gasket.... Is it bad if the egr, egr cooler and manifold never been replaced after 13 years and 147 200 miles ? Anyway! Thank you for that amazing video.
not bad at all if you address soon, but you are nearing the limits of where it would become a problem. If the car hasnt thrown a misfire you are scraping by - but I'd do it soon and at least the water pump if you have not done so already.
@@Fahmbo I have done the egr , manifold cleaning few hundredths miles after having bought the car as well as replacing the water pump and the pcv valve :)
the coolant for the throttle body has input and output or does no matter
I just removed them and clamped them off but make sure you put them back in the same place.
How many miles are on that car? It looks brand new under the hood.
Thanks! 158k miles now.
@@jimsgaragetoys Thanks. Mine is at 181k and I never knew about these being prone to clogging until recently. Going to tackle it this week.
Can anyone let us know what type of screwdriver to take out those 2 Phillip looking bolt on the egr solenoid thank you!!
Looks like a #2 Philips head screwdriver. Japan built cars though use a different pitch so you might want to pick up a set of screwdrivers for Japan built cars. www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=japanese+screwdriver+set&qid=1689037559&sr=8-6
The thing we need is how yo clean up or fixed the EGR vale? How is the wrong in the EGR vale that yhe thing you don’t day !
I replaced them with new parts. I'll be doing a video on how I cleaned the used parts soon as I have to swap them back soon.
They sell the Egr valve kit on Ebay Manhattan beach Toyota for $180 its original from Toyota.
I bought the EGR kit from my local dealer for $156.
@@jimsgaragetoys nice i do live in California lol
@@jimsgaragetoys can you post your local dealer info, need to buy one and here in south Florida they want $268... thank you for the video and the info!
@@raygonzalez6631 I get my parts from different dealers in the Portland area. They don't have online options that I'm aware of.
That bolt really is the bolt from HELL and for that alone Toyota should be punished. But I will go a step further. Gen 3 Prius clogged EGR equals blown head gasket equals catastrophic failure at 160,000 miles just outside of recall bulletin. Toyo has destroyed their reputation, all the gas savings is gone - they are no longer a reliable company.
Do you have any info on this recall? My 2011 is just a bit above 160K and I just got the P0401 error code.
I wouldn't say it's not reliable as many Gen3 Prius will go 500k miles or more. The key is cleaning the EGR cooler, replacing or trying to clean the EGR valve, cleaning the intake manifold and replacing the PCV valve. If you do this every 75-100k miles you should be in excellent condition for a very long time while avoiding any head gasket issues. If you install an oil catch can when you replace the PCV valve you can also help prevent issues while also helping to keep your intake manifold cleaner. Bottom line, maintenance is key.
@@jimsgaragetoys I have had dozens of cars for which cleaning the egr wasn't a scheduled maintenance item. By the time the average layman figures out to add this to a maintenance schedule it is too late and the damage is done. Thanks for the video though. When I get this work done the car will go up for sale and I will be done with Prius - back to old reliable ice only Camrys for me.
@@juanifico the recall goes up to 150k miles. We're both out of luck.
@@ddmercantile As long as people get the service done at Toyota they will just replace parts. Hopefully people try to learn about their car so they know what needs to be done. I do understand the beauty of a straight ICE engine though as my 4 cars are all ICE engines with a manual transmission.
what are the parts # for the items you replaced?
Sorry about the delay to your question but I had to find the boxes! The EGR Valve Kit is Toyota part # 04004-58137 and the intake manifold is # 17120-37054
Ok, nobody has asked this yet. Where did you get those trays? Looked on Amazon and didn’t see them.
They are all over Amazon in various colors and prices. I don't see the exact ones I bought a couple years back but here is something similar. www.amazon.com/MOTORHEAD-Super-Grip-Silicone-4-Piece/dp/B0B79QNHWW/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2QYSBX4268WMH&keywords=silicone+auto+work+trays&qid=1698652238&s=automotive&sprefix=silicone+auto+work+trays%2Cautomotive%2C203&sr=1-8
@@jimsgaragetoys thank you!
For the bolt from hell... Why not cut an opening on the mounting tab of the cooler, thread the bolt back on the engine side and when it comes time to reinstall the cooler, the mounting tab would simply slide over the bolt and all you'd have to do is tighten it?
That could work but it's so hard to reach the nut that I will choose to not hassle with it. It's really not needed to hold anything in place. Once you remove it you will see that it's very secure without it too. Thanks for the idea though as some people might like the idea!
My experience WD-40 liberal application, 3/8 tekton deep socket set 12mm you can't use too big socket. It's an exact fit to get to that bolt from there flex head 3/8 and you will get it with patience
It’s PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve, not PVC. And those hoseclips that you have connecting to the PCV are not the original spring clamps
Thanks, and yes, I know. If I said it wrong at some point, opps, my bad! I've heard many people make the same mistake even when we all know what it is. I found the original springs clamps to be a little loose so I used a better hose clamp for better clamping power. Better is never a bad thing! I've installed an OCC on many cars over the years with excellent results.
Water pump is just drain half the coolant, remove the air box electrical plug and 5 bolts. 10 minute job
Yes, it's easy access once the air box is removed. Ours is still going strong at 140k miles.
Can it be cleaned instead
I cleaned the EGR cooler and intake manifold so I have a clean one ready to go when I need to swap them again. I haven't looked at cleaning the EGR valve yet since it didn't look like a straight up process.
@@jimsgaragetoys I order metal brush and gasket to clean it
@@edwinbab705 Part of it has wiring and contacts inside of it so I haven't looked inside to see if that was an issue. It wasn't a super expensive part to buy though and I knew that a new EGR valve was better than cleaning one.The other parts are easier to know you cleaned then well.
Why you take out too much things that look like we don’t need to take off that part, like intake manifold ? If we have some good tools we can take off just egr vales that we don’t need take off wipes and intake manifold ,
The intake manifold needs to be cleaned too. There are very small passages from the EGR system that get plugged and have to be changed. I decided to change the parts out so I could later clean the parts and have them ready to go at a later time to swap again. This way I always have a clean part when needed to swap again.
You should have replaced PCP valve as well while you are there, its under 20bucks.
That had already been done at a previous service when I installed the Oil Catch Can. I will be swapping the dirty intake manifold, EGR cooler, and EGR valve for the clean ones I have ready to go very soon. I also have a new PCV valve for it at that time. My plan is to also replace the water pump at that service too.
Can you put the brakedluid cap back pleaee? 😂
No worries, it was handled. 🤣
This is a joke. Who thought this was okay to engineer.
You would have to ask the engineer. It's not that bad once you do it the first time.
nice you show the bolt from hell and offer nothing about how to remove it ...
Well it's hard to show with a camera since I couldn't even see it. I could feel it with my hand. I had to just fiddle around with it for quite some time. A tip for getting it off it to remove the entire stud. It protrudes much farther than the nut and was easier to get a socket around. Keep in mind that it takes special female torx socket to remove the stud. It's the same size stud and nut that is easily reached between the EGR valve and cooler. I thought that I had talked about this in the video. Sorry if I didn't make it clear.
@@jimsgaragetoys hey man i'm planning to do this in a couple days. and I just wanna be clear on your comment. you used the E8 socket to remove the entire stud INSTEAD OF the actual bolt?? Besides the e8 socket, what else did you use? Since I haven't tackled the job yet It's hard to think of what you may need so i'm just trying to make sure i have my shit together
@@niveKOnBass I tried to remove the nut but it was much harder the get to the nut since it is farther back on tested. Then I thought why not just remove the entire stud? The end of the stud can be reached much easier than the nut so that's what I did and it worked beautifully!
@@niveKOnBass I got this reply from you and wanted to thank you for the kind words but when I went to reply I couldn't find it. I'm not sure where it went but thank you anyway. Your quote was "I just want to say that I am grateful for you and your video. Yours has been superior to the other 47 i've watched. The camera work was excellent. The explaining was excellent. The talking was all useful. No stupid fluff and stories that I never asked for. No extra bullshit. I don't need to watch you unscrew bolts, I know how to do that (unless it's a tough bolt). It was done perfectly."
@@jimsgaragetoys For whatever reason my comments keep getting deleted :p. no idea why youtube doesn't like me. It's not your channel so dw. but yeah man it's better in every way. Explanations and angles and stuff. Very good. Also you used freakin power tools. Omg I hate watching someone remove shit by hand lol
im changing my spark plugs right now just taking a break at the moment. but I got a look/feel of the bolt in question and I was wondering if there's a possibility of this stud actually shearing off if you try to loosen it with the nut on? was it really tight? I tried it on the close up bolt and it seemed like it was gonna break so im hesitant a little bit. What tools did you use? I don't have one of those long slim electric screwdrivers you have, can I loosen it by hand? I'm sure I can get a swivel socket on it or somethin
Showing too much other bullshit . Not enough straightforward . It’s confusing , moving on to another channel.
Thanks for the opinion but what's confusing? I take my time to show everything that needs to be done. I looked at many videos and they were all skipping over things and not showing everything that needed to be done. I didn't want to go from A to M to Z like many videos did. I wanted to be able to help people do this that had never done it before and I've had a lot of people say it helped them a lot so I'm confused as to what is extra BS and how I'm not being straightforward? I'm asking in a genuine manner since I'm not sure what you are referring about. If I can improve them I'm all up for that to help others so any feedback is welcome if you can be more concise.
Does it bother anyone else that he knocked off the brake fluid cap and didnt immediatly retrieve it and put it back on?🫣
Obviously not since you are the first to mention it. I grabbed it and replaced it, no harm, no foul. 🤣
@@jimsgaragetoys thats good great vid by the way guess Im the only ocd viewer out here
@@jimsgaragetoys by the way just because Im the first to mention it doesnt mean there arent other viewers before me or after me me that havent noticed it and their ocd didnt kick in 🤔😊🫡