How to Install a Sump Pump - Step By Step Installation Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ค. 2024
- Sump Pump Experts Jim and Bob show you how to install a replacement sump pump, step by step.
📚 Follow along with the written how-to guide: www.sumppumpsdirect.com/stori...
💡 What is a weep hole? • Why Your Sump Pump Nee...
🛒 Shop Sump Pumps: www.sumppumpsdirect.com/
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Chapters:
0:00 Introduction
1:08 Before Installing the Pump
2:34 Tools You Need to Install the Pump
3:10 How to Remove Your Sump Pump
4:00 How to Install A Sump Pump
6:16 How to Drill a Weep Hole
6:50 Take Measurements
7:30 Cut PVC Pipe
7:41 Attach Pipe to Check Valve
8:26 Secure Electrical Cords
8:40 Test the System
9:03 Wrap Up
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The product experts at Power Equipment Direct answer your most common power equipment questions.
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Thanks for watching!
#PowerEquipmentDirect #installation #sumppump #howto - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Hello, Thanks for watching! The most asked questions we get are often about the weep hole, the purpose, benefits, etc. The purpose of a weep hole is to allow water and air pockets to escape the pipe so air doesn't get into the pump and cause damage. Please watch our accompanying video on Weep Holes - we give an in-depth explanation with examples: th-cam.com/video/MoLb6YAFbGg/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much for this video! I did everything you said and my first sump pump install went very smoothly!
We're really glad you took the time to leave us some feedback! Congrats on your successful installation!
Great instructional video and in my opinion the best one out there. Watched many of them. Thank you so much.
Appreciate you watching and we're glad you found it useful!
I appreciate the expertise with which you guys explain the steps and procedures in your program and I hope to see more videos with that same type of teaching style.
Thank you for watching and sharing that with us! We appreciate it!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Especially the "weeping" part. lol Swap out went well and we are back up and running. Thanks again
You are so welcome!
Great demo Bob
Direct and to the point, great overview. Thank you
Thank you for watching!
great work guys
Thank you for the quality video! You all do a great job!
We really appreciate that! Thanks for watching.
This is a good, step by step video of how to properly install such a pump. It includes putting a weep hole below the check valve. Some videos don't.
Thanks for watching and glad that you found value in this video!
Am trying to figure out the importance of that weep hole
Brother Jim and Bob I really enjoyed your implementation process and presentation, top marks. I got some ideas of how I want to improve my setup based on your video, so I hope you don't mind if I borrow.
We're very happy you enjoyed our video! Be sure to check out the rest of them, tons of great videos on our channel!
The best sump pump video on the web.
We appreciate that very much!
Thank you so much for the work process . greetings from Tunisia
You are very welcome!
this is the best explanation i have seen, thanks
Thanks so much for watching!
Really good video.
Thank you for your video. Help me a lot !
Thank you for watching and glad it was helpful!
This helped me 100%…Thank you！！！！！
Really glad you found it helpful, thanks for watching!
Thanks guys - it's working! :)
I just replaced my sump a few weeks ago. An FYI here, a submersible pump with a FLOAT type switch is ok if the pump doesn't run very often. The power cord for the switch tends to wear out at the tether point making the switch inoperable. The first pump I had had this arrangement and when the cord wore out for the float switch I would buy another float switch, at the time these switches cost around 20 dollars. I finally switched out the pump with another submersible pump but with a mechanical and serviceable switch. We have a high water table here and my pump runs a lot. Very good video, easy to follow and very helpful.
Thanks for the feedback and insight, Jay! Glad you enjoyed our video!
Very nice and very sample video Thanks you
Thank you for your feedback!
Thank you boys
Thanks for watching!
Your bumper music is the same as Scotty Kilmer's- the auto mechanic guy. Love it.
That's a fun coincidence!
Public domain.
I have a Zoeller Waste-Mate 267-0001 1/2 HP Sewage Pump that I use for basic basement waterproofing for rainwater (it's connected to my perimeter drainage on the outside of my basement). This pump pumps at 128 GPM with a max head of about 21.5'.
From the discharge port, it pumps up 4' to the quiet check valve, then goes up 4' more. At THAT height, it then makes 2 90-degree turns with a total run of about 28' before going down at a 45-degree angle for 1' whereby it 90s again for a final run of about 20 feet before going down into the dirt to eventually connect to the outside city rainwater drainage.
Today, the sump pit was dry and since we're expecting rain tomorrow, I dumped some water in the pit to make sure the pump is functional. It was, but it was dry-locked. My 2" drain line that this pump is connected to lacks one of the 3/16th weep holes... If I do add one, I know that it needs to be just above the discharge (well before the check valve).
Should I add a weep hole to prevent the dry-lock?
Yes, I would recommend that you drill the weep hole, but we recommend that that you drill a 1/8" or 3/16" hole in your PVC discharge pipe, approximately 4" above your pump's discharge port and well within the inside of the basin. Drill the hole at a 45 degree angle so the hole is pointing toward the bottom of your sump basin. Water will be discharging from the weep hole when your pump is operating. This is completely normal. A typical installation will have the check valve positioned about 2-3 feet above your sump basin cover.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect, Thanks for the response.
After I posted that initial question to you guys, I contacted Zoeller about this same thing and they basically said the same thing: I finally drilled the 3/16" hole about 2 fingers above the discharge port (where the exit line screws into the pump, I mean) on the base of the pump, angled down into the basin (to make sure no water gets shot up or out of the basin) and I haven't had any issues since with the pump suffering from air lock. The pipe is a bit noisier than it was as that hole has allowed a little air into the discharge line, but not enough to cause problems that I can't live with.
Thanks again!
@@22_floW Thanks for following up. Take care.
What pump and check valve do you recommend my check valve is so loud
This is a great video for installing a sump pump. What is weep hole for? what is the purpose of that?
Thanks for watching. The purpose of a weep hole is to allow water and air pockets to escape the pipe so air doesn't get into the pump and cause damage. Watch this video, we give an in-depth explanation with examples: th-cam.com/video/MoLb6YAFbGg/w-d-xo.html
Great informative video! We moved into a new home last October. The house was built in may of 2020, the sump pump we have in the crawl space is very loud and it’s right under my sons room, what can I do to fix that? Thank you!
Thank you for watching! There are some ways that *might* reduce noise with your pump. The first is to get a sump pit cover that fits nicely over the top. Some of them are noise dampening. The next thing to do would be to install a quieter check valve, like we did in this video. It does make a difference if the noise is coming from water moving through the pipes and not the motor itself.
Is it necessary to install a vent on plumbing pipes evacuating water from a sump pump? Thanks!
What if someone bumps into the pipework and breaks it. What can you do to cover the pipework?
Please help... I sometimes see the weep hole drilled like you do in this video. I also see videos where the weep hole is drilled a lot higher on the pipe, somewhat close to the top/underside of the pit cover. Which way is correct? Thank You!
I really like your TH-cam supportI videos and I am thinking about using a
Flotec FPSE3200A - 4/10 HP Thermoplastic Sewage Pump w/ Piggyback Tether Float
in a back yard catch basin below a downspout with a connection to a nearby channel drain. I am using a sewage pump to take care of random leaves and debris the might fall n the basin form the roof or from local surface water.
1) What are the minimal dimensions of the basin I can use with this pump which I expect will only run when it rains. I want a smaller ""pit" because I think the overlying grate will be stronger.
2) Will a smaller pit significantly decrease the pump life due to short cycling during the rain and the subsequent brief runoff period?
Thanks,
David - Dallas
Is it a bad idea to incease the size of the dischage pipe diameter from 1.5 to 2.0" If the discharge line may have several 45/90 degree turns ? also what about using the longer smoother 90 degree elbow fittiings ?
Mine wears out every year. It works very hard during the wet season. There are days and even weeks where it runs constantly.
Could be from excessive cylcling. Thats my issue. Small basin+big pump
@@ossocinco Yes for sure. Live in a floodplain.
You might consider up-sizing your next sump pump to prevent premature burnout. Horsepower can determine how hard your pump works, and we offer commercial-grade pumps as well if you end up needing a unique solution. There are other factors to consider as well, like the basin size, PVC pipe diameter, vertical head lift, and more. If you're having trouble choosing one, please give us a call at 1 (888) 455-4682 and we'd be happy to assist you further.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect Good tips. Thank you.
An isolation valve downstream (above) the check valve will allow maintenance without flooding the area
According to the instructions of the PVC cement you used, after assembling the fittings, HOLD together for 30 seconds to avoid push-out. This can (and often does) happen, and may result in a joint that leaks and would require repair.
We do recommend following all directions on plumbing products. In our case, we are also aware that the quarter-twist Bob did during the connection chemically activates the glue, which melts the glue and primer together. Many people do not twist the connection after applying both on the pipe, which could also cause a proper seal to not be made.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect emmmc
Why is the weep hole drilled near the bottom of the discharge pipe? I thought that if there was an air lock, the air would travel to the top and be trapped at the spot right before the check valve. The pipe area below would be filled with water. As such, how would a weep hole at the bottom discharge the air lock which is right next to the check valve?
How would you replace this pump upon failure? Would you have to cut and fit all new discharge pipes? Due to the glue and cement ?
It's actually pretty simple. Just remove the old pump by loosening the bottom check valve coupling and take the pump with the bottom discharge intact. Prep your new pump like we show in the video and you'll be all set. Good luck and thanks for watching! -Jim
Bought a new pump (Red Lion RL 160U) and it runs all the time even when out of the sump hole. What could be the problem, I thought it should run only when it it's immerged in water?
That Red Lion pump is a utility pump and not a submersible sump pump, and it should not be used for sump pump applications. Your pump does not have a float switch hence the constant running whether it is in water or not. Submersible sump pumps are designed to only activate when its float switch is activated through high water levels, as long as the pump is plugged into a power outlet. A float switch (tether float or other) activates when water levels rise and the switch is lifted upward toward a specific angle, thus activating the pump.
If you want to replace it, you can call in and we can help you choose a proper pump for sump pits. We would need to know the following:
Pump Basin dimensions (width & depth); Total vertical discharge head lift; Total horizontal pumping distance; Current discharge pipe diameter; Does your pump run all the time or only when it rains?
It's not good for any pump to run without water running through it. Also, using that pump your basement is not keeping it safe from flooding because it was not designed for that purpose.
Where can i get the pvc adapters for a WAYNE CDU800 1/2 HP?
If you are looking for PVC adapters, you should be able to find them at any local hardware or big box store.
When threading the adapter to the pump do you use any Teflon tape for the threads ?
Great question I was also wondering the same thing?
Hello, using tape isn't needed since the pump is under water, typically the tape is used to seal the threads or to assist the threads from seizing. With these typically being PVC connections, that tape isn't typically used.
please see our response above.
I have now heard by another that the weep hole should above the high water mark in the pit. How can the weep hole vent if in the water? Or maybe it work just as well where you drilled it? I am not sure right now.
The weep hole should be lower in the pit because it is meant to relieve the pipe of any air left in the system after a draining cycle. You want the hole to be underwater and the pipe below the hole even after a draining cycle, so air can't get trapped in the pipe. Having the hole up high greatly increases the chances of air lock and burning out your pump.
Great video. When islnstalling a dual sump pump do you put a weep hole on both pieces of the y pipe? At the lower section of each pump or just the main?
Thanks for the question. Just as you should install a check valve for each pump installed in your pit, the weep hole should also be drilled in the discharge pipe for each pump the same way that we explain in the video. While this is common practice, there are rare cases when the weep hole is not needed. This would apply to pumps with a "top suction" design which involves just about all of Wayne's sump pumps.
Should the pcv go in the ground or should the water be free flowing outside
In most cases, the discharge pipe will drain the water above ground and away from the house, but it could be slightly different depending on building codes in your area. Some discharge pipes leave the house underground but will surface and drain the water into a yard, street, etc., further from the home. Others may discharge water right from the pit and into the main city drain in urban neighborhoods. There are many factors to consider there. Keep in mind that any underground water near the home drains into a home's drain tile system, which is then filtered into the sump pit where the sump pump pumps it up, out, and away from the home.
Can I seal up the sump pit cover?
That is not recommended as, inevitably, you'll need to get into it again someday.
Looks like you just plugged the pump in, but a bad experience tells me it's a lot better to hard wire it in. To hard wire it in, would you just cut off the plug and connect the wires to the conduit in a junction box? Also, do you use 14/3 or 12/3 conduit on a 50-foot run from the dedicated breaker on the panel?
In most cases, yes, you can simply plug the pump in to your dedicated AC outlet. If you prefer to hardwire your pump, would would cut at the plug and wire according to all local, state and national electric codes. Those codes along with the electrical specs of the pump being installed would dictate what gauge and number of conductor wires you use.
The M98 Zoeller Sump Pump installation booklet concerning the Weep states " When a Unicheck is installed, drill a 3/16" hole in the discharge pipe EVEN with the top of the pump." Note: the hole must also be below the basin cover and cleaned periodically. Even with the pump is different than 2 fingers up.
We appreciate that you've checked the owner's manual. Obviously we can't cover every possible recommendation for weep holes from every manufacturer, so we used the two-finger example as a rule-of-thumb for those who will not check the owner's manual like we recommend that they do. While some manufacturers will have slightly different recommendations, the most important part we want people to understand is that a weep hole is drilled on the discharge pipe lower than the top of the pump. Remember that the higher the weep hole is drilled, the more standing water will be permanently stuck in the discharge pipe below that hole. The two-finger rule minimizes water that remains in the discharge pipe after it runs and decreases the chance of an air bubble getting trapped between run cycles, because a lower weep hole is more likely to remain completely submerged in water a greater amount of time.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect Thank you for clarifying! I will use the 2 fingers up and yes, I have the Zoeller Model M98. Take care!
My pump doesn’t have check valve should I buy how can I attached to garden hose?
Your sump pump should be attached to PVC pipe and a check valve should be attached to the PVC pipe as well. Garden hoses should not be used in any sump pump applications.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect my pump probably get airclog how to take air out?
That depends if it's actually air locked within the pump or between the pump and a check valve. Most pumps these days have an air relief hole somewhere within the pump body to prevent this. But if you suspect the pump is air-locked, you may need to pull the pump to release the air lock. You might also check to see if it has that air relief hole in the pump body and if it's not clogged. It also never hurts to drill that weep hole in the discharge pipe.
Hi sir how are you ? I just watch your vid sir my question is how big do I need for my washing machine coz I need one pls can you suggest me one thank you sir
Hello, please give us a call for more assistance: +1 888-455-4682
www.sumppumpsdirect.com/
In my appartment they installed the sump pump in the bedroom's closet (yeah very clever). It's noisy and bang when it stop and when it's raining a lot it bang every 40 seconds. I hate sump pump.
So it run 20 seconds, stop 20 seconds and start again. Banging everytime it stop.
Sorry to hear about that, perhaps you can get the property manager to inspect it to make sure it was installed properly or if it needs anything replaced. Often times, excessive noise while operating could indicate the sump pump is wearing out and might need to be replaced. Not sure what you're hearing as a "bang" though. You should probably have that investigated though. A replacement pump is likely going to be quieter.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect Thank you. For the bang, it's like pipes knocking in the wall. When the pump stop it knock 3 times. The building was built less than 5 years ago. I thought it might be the check valve that create sudden pressure that make the knocking noise. Thank you for your time, it's appreciated.
What is the purpose of the hole that you drilled?
I would like to understand that as well. Thanks.
Its purpose is to allow water and air pockets to escape the pipe so air doesn't get into the pump and cause damage. Watch this video, we give an in-depth explanation with examples: th-cam.com/video/MoLb6YAFbGg/w-d-xo.html
@@PowerEquipmentDirect Thank you very much.
Don't run pump dry. Proceeds to run pump dry
Everything I'm reading in the manual for these pumps says to install the check valve as close to the base of the pump as possible. In the installation above, 3 feet of water in the pipe will go back into the pit after the pump goes off. Any reason why there wasn't a check valve installed in the pit at the base of the pump?
Thanks for commenting. Although it's always best to follow the instruction manual, check valve placement can be a personal preference as long as you have drilled a weep hole. Whenever the vertical lift on a pump is a minimum 5-7 feet high, Jim prefers it about midway, and that is his personal preference.
To add on to this, we were doing a replacement for both the check valve and pump, keeping things in place for easy of replacement for most people to accomplish. Many people have a check valve within 3-4 ' above the pump, since that makes the replacement or maintenance of the pump/pit a little easier, since then the pipe below the check valve is easier to access and remove the pump when needed. Yes, they do recommend the closer the check valve is to the pump the lower amount of water will empty back into the pit for the pump, but the 3-4' of 1-1/2" PVC pipe is only going to allow approximately 1/3 gallon of water to re-enter the pit (not too much to be concerned about unless the pit is not a typical sized pit and is smaller than 18" diameter).
Not sure I understand the issue with extension cords. I mean ... the point where the water is accumulating is far from the outlet .. what to do?!
If your cord is on a downward slope toward the outlet, it creates a fire hazard if water were to drip from anywhere and then travel down that cord to the outlet. This issue is preventable by restraining your cord on the discharge pipe at a lower height of the outlet the cord is plugged into.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect thank you , but isn’t that an issue whether you’re using an extension cord or not?
@@NotSoLiberal The extension cord is a different issue. Most sump manufacturers don't recommend extension cords because the length can impact the motor performance and cause issues. Another issue can be when using too thin of a cord.
The pump I got , the manual said to drill the weeping hole line up to the top of the pump , and now it’s spraying water !!!
Water will drain out of a weep hole after a pump cycle. Any air trapped with the water in the pipe will be released simultaneously. That's a normal thing to see. But to be clear, water should not be spraying out (like it was pressurized), it should be draining like a faucet. The higher the weep hole is drilled, the more water will be left in the pipe after a cycle, leaving more chance for air pockets to form. However, having a weep hole anywhere on the pipe is better than not having one at all.
Why do you put the hole in the pipe? Won't that cause the pump not to push as efficiently?
Good question, it's one of the most asked questions we get. The purpose of a weep hole is to allow water and air pockets to escape the pipe so air doesn't get into the pump and cause damage. It doesn't affect pump efficiency in a negative way, and actually prevents air lock and other hazards that would damage your system. Please watch our accompanying video on Weep Holes - we give an in-depth explanation with examples: th-cam.com/video/MoLb6YAFbGg/w-d-xo.html
@@PowerEquipmentDirect thank you, I'll watch later.
My sister-in-law is recently a widow. She is going to sell her house. Her large house sits on the side of a hill. It is mounted on 28 telephone poles. Her sump pump is failing based on the noise it's making. The house is 40 years old. A plumber told her it will take 3 hours labor to remove and replace the sump pump. I know each case is different, but it sounds like the plumber is gouging my sister-in-law. What is a typical amount of time to do this job?
Sorry to hear about your sister-in-law. It's really hard to say because as you said, each case is different. If you have a typical setup for a sump pump and the plumber is a professional performing a direct swap with the same type of pump, then it typically can be done in under two hours. If they need to cut additional pipe or replace things like a check valve, or work inside the pit to remove debris, or install separate parts of the system like wireless alarms or a backup pump, now it's easier to say it could take 3-4 hours to complete the job. If you're worried about her getting gouged, ask whether it's a direct swap or if she is choosing a different type of pump system that will need to be installed fresh. Sometimes a plumber will work the cost of the equipment into the quote, but if you purchased the pump they may just charge the labor to install what you have. Many plumbers are good, hardworking people that are pretty honest when it comes to a job, so just make sure you are both clear on what is being replaced and the work that needs to be done.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect Wow!
Thank-you for such a detailed and timely response! I will pass your comments on to my sister-in-law.
Merry Christmas!
@@GregSr Likewise, take care!
Why put the check valve so high? That is approximately 2 gallons of water draining back into the "Pit" (1/5 of the pump out volume).
Great question! For this particular installation, it was placed there as a convenience for the homeowner for not having to bend down to check or replace the valve in the future. It's also easier to be able to unattach the pump at the valve at eye level and pull it out of the pit without worrying about all the water draining from above when the check valve is installed lower. It's not bad to place the valve lower near the pit, but the placement is mostly convenience in this case when drainage is not a problem.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect A PVC ball valve above a lower check valve would be more beneficial.
Show me in the NEC where it says a pump has to be on a dedicated circuit 😂
GFCI Outlets can cause nuisance trips and flooding. A standard receptacle is recommended regardless of what the NEC code outlines. Zoeller and many other pump manufacturers, “allows” for the GFCI in their instructions. Most inspectors are aware of this and require all basement, garage, and above-counter outlets to be GFCI protected with the exception of the sump pump receptacles. The true question would be to ask the electrical inspector or anyone trying to require a GFCI outlet for a sump pump if they have a GFCI outlet on their sump pump at home. Probably not.
On another note, you do not want more than 80% load on a circuit. This allows for an initial start-up surge in amps. So if we have a 15 amp circuit serving our sump pump outlet and a Zoeller M53 is pulling 9.7 amps minimum we are at 65% capacity...12 amps is the max you should put on a 15 amp circuit. So you can put something that only pulls 2.3 amps on that same circuit. So basically it needs its own dedicated circuit. Keep in mind that Zoeller sump pumps have a higher initial start-up amperage higher than the 9.7 as well...which is another reason a dedicated circuit is recommended. There is no room for any other appliance/fixture on that circuit. Increasing to a 20 amp circuit would help.
We do not decide on the NEC code...but a dedicated circuit and non-GFCI outlet are a must in our opinion. Other configurations are just taking unnecessary risks. The only exception would be if the sump pump has a battery backup system...then if the GFCI nuisance trips you still have the battery backup system to pump out the water.
I see no shut off valve, in most videos I have seen they have one.
Shut-off valves are nice to have to prevent the flow of water when you're working on the pump. In our installation setting, it isn't necessary because we can disconnect the pump PVC pipe at the check valve because of the way we connected our adapters. The shut-off valve in this case is redundant because all remaining water will be below the check valve when it's disconnected.
Man my sump pit water is all murky.
drain water can become murky at some times because under-home runoff will sometimes bring in some sand/dirt as well. There are videos online showing how to clean out a sump pump pit with simple home solutions, maybe check that out to remove some of the grime that may be in your pit.
The sump pump will work just fine off a drop cord.
We still never recommend using any type of extension cord with a sump pump application, even if it is rated properly for amperage and gauge-it's an additional risk. Home builders are supposed to install an outlet at a reasonable distance from any sump pump pit, and the cords themselves are often 8-feet or 10-feet long to prevent those unnecessary risks.
You showed us how to drill that hole into the pip at a 45 degree angle, but you didn't explain why this is a good step or necessary. Enquiring minds want to know!
Sure, it's important to do to prevent air locks from happening in the pump. We have another video that explains this in greater detail, please give it a watch! th-cam.com/video/MoLb6YAFbGg/w-d-xo.html
Look up Radon gas
Thank you for sharing this important topic. It's important for people to be aware of this, and that take-at-home tests are available to see if your home has unsafe levels of Radon gas.
Looking at the reviews it may be a good video but the title said Install and this is a swap out/replace..... should change the title.
Thanks for the feedback. In our experience, most people are searching for how to replace their pump, not do a fresh installation, but the video is titled the way people are searching for this content on the internet, which is why so many people are now seeing it. We may make another video in the future that goes over this process from a new build, which would be titled as such.
Your weep hole is too low
Why did you not put glue on your pipe also????NOT GOOD!!
We're not sure where you're referring to, but rest assured we followed the proper protocol for installation in accordance with all owner's manuals and best practices. It's possible we may not have included the part of the video where a certain pipe was glued, but all necessary pipes were properly glued during our installation.
My pit is located in a small furnace room and the discharge pipe is about 12" from the wall. Is it permitted to fit elbows to the discharge pipe to move it next to the wall?
That is determined by local building codes, so you should refer to those for specific specifications for your area.