there's no place to put it above on my kolb other than attach to the engine maybe. I'm worried bout oil collecting in the diaphram and crappin it out. I think others have it mounted lower, I've got the line going up for a bit to minimize the amount of oil.
1. Mount the fuel pump on the gearbox higher than the Puls outlet from the engine and horizontal , look in the Mikuni installation manual. 2. If you use Pumpgas replace the pump diaphragm every year !! They didn’t cost much . 3. After 3 to 5 weeks the Pumpgas is already not anymore the same !! 4. Use alcohol free gas when ever possible .5. Drain the tank and the carbs before longer periods of non usage . 6. Use the best 2 stroke oil you can get .7. Shake the the tank , even when it’s only stands for a week or two ! 8. Before longer in use time , conserve your engine , it’s very simple , buy 2 spray bottles of fogging oil ( engine conservation) remove the air filters, start the engine , let it run in idle or little 🎉higher , spray the fogging oil simultaneously in both inlets until the engine dies , plug the engine inlets and the exhaust outlet don’t turne the engine . Next spring , remove the plugs , turn the engine by hand several times, than simply start it ! Keep it alive WTH the throttle until the smoke stops . Then it will hold almost for ever !
This video was great and explain very good the life and use lasting of this particular engine,I will also suggest a fuel hose hook up system including line filters,fuel pump,the correct clamps and so and so.
Why did my engine lose power after takeoff? I made it back safely, barely. Rotax 503 points, dc/di, A box, 3 blade warp drive prop. Temps normal. Engine starts and runs. Have not flown since.
Hey Harmon did you do vids on adding a back up fuel pump and or controlling vibration on wires that are exposed on Rotax engines ? Great video thanks . just bought one of these birds used . I’m trying to learn as much as I can . Thanks Dan
My piston has a big detonation blast hole in the center. :-/ I didn't put it there though. I try to read the number stamped on the piston to find the same size to replace it with but it's really hard to read. Anyway, they didn't tell me that when they sold it to me. I had brought a compression tester with me but in a parking lot I really didn't feel like going through all that. I would of bought it anyway since I drove so far to pick it up and only paid $250 bucks. My best guess is someone ran it with a hotter break in spark plug than the normal spark plug, because the spark plugs in it were the ones recommended for break in?
Super helpful info thank you for taking the time to make this. I’m looking at a single carb 503. Anything I should look for? Has a belt drive for a phantom x1. I noticed the fuel pump in the phantom I’m going to buy is vertical. I should change the orientation or ok to leave it?
Hello. I just bought a Rans s14 with a 503 dc/di and don't know much about it and haven't flown it yet, Is it possible to talk to you because I have a number of questions? Great videos btw and lots of info. Thanks
You can have evaporation of some of the organic molecules that make up the fuel blend and that usually lowers your octane rating of the fuel, making detonation more likely.
Hello, what RPM would you suggest for warm up? I've been going between 2000 and 2500. 1800 seems to make the engine vibrate too much. Also, what water temp would you suggest? I've been waiting to about 60 degrees Celsius before taxi. Thanks!
Hey good info BUT! I think at some point you said you mix oil with gas at 50:1 ratio AND use the oil injection system then said, “more oil is better.” IF that’s what you said that is definitely incorrect! If the manufacturer recommends 50:1 that’s what the mixture should be. Any other ratio will be harmful to the engine as the fuel air ratio will burn at the wrong temperature.
Yes, you should use either the oil injection system installed on the engine OR mix oil 50:1. More oil won't harm the engine. It will provide more lubriction. The downside is, you risk building up carbon deposits on your piston/spark plug and fouling during run up or flight. Choose either premix or injection, and make sure your EGT is at a stable reading of 1000-1100F. If you do use a richer oil mixture than what is recommended and get by without fouling a spark plug, you notice a reduction of power only, with no harm to the engine. I've been flying Rotax 2-strokes for many years and love them. Replace rubber carb sockets every 2 years with aftermarket vs Rotax. Sometimes the Rotax brands have cracks when new. I hope this helps.
Almost impossible to diagnose over the internet. 2 strokes only need 3 things to run. spark, Fuel and compression. I have seen a lot of weed eater motors that exhibit this symptom. Sometimes they will run cold, and after they warm up, they want to die or run poorly. this is usually low compression. I always operate on the KISS theory. Keep it simple stupid. start with the easiest thing first. fuel, then move to spark, finally compression. Here is my last piece of advice. Carbs just dont get out of adjustment. The motor usually has changed, or the carb has gummed up. turning the adjustment screws will almost never solve your problems. good luck!
Seems like if any one of those tubes pops off because a clamp slips off or vibrates loose, that's it, that's all she wrote for your engine. None of it looks safety wired on.
some General Aviation con man sold me a two cylinder two stroke with a detonated head which I didn't find out about until I got it home. It's sat where I parked it ever since. Wahta waste of money. Don't trust other pilots, they are con men unloading hteir junk on you.
It doesn't sound like a very safe engine to use on an aircraft... the whole possibility of getting an air leak anywhere destroying your engine is a piss poor design. Now if there is some kind of gauge or sensor or warning light you can install (for example O2 sensor in exhaust like on fuel injected cars)) that would immediately warn you of a lean condition that that might make it a workable decent engine.. if you can immediately shut it down. I'm just not impressed with the multiple points of catastrophic failure on a two stroke. Why use vinyl lines for example when you could design it with metal ducts in the engine blocks or metal tubes that would never age or crack?
+CHOPPERGIRL AIRWAR Your EGT gauges do exactly what you suggested, they immediately warn you of an over lean condition. Two-strokes definitely require more maintenance and care than a four-stroke, but they provide a MUCH higher power to weight ratio which is essential for flying lightweight aircraft. (not to mention that they are often significantly less expensive)
Yeah, I have a CHT / EGT gauge and it doesn't tell me anything but numbers. No red zone, no green zone, no yellow zone, and rather confusing for how the needles are positioned in one gauge. Digital seems a better way to go. Still, I think these vinyl lines need to be replaces with metal tubes that won't vibrate off or crack, if any air leak anywhere is going to fuck up your engine asap.
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Thank you Harmon! Began with a Pterodactyl in '78 with a 20 hp Sachs. Been flying U.L. ever since.
I started with a Dac also, 1981 Ascender ..... a flying machine. Just bought another one ~ 1984 Ascender II+ with a 503 ..... hell of a flying machine
Mount fuel pump above pulse port as well. Awesome video thanks!
there's no place to put it above on my kolb other than attach to the engine maybe. I'm worried bout oil collecting in the diaphram and crappin it out. I think others have it mounted lower, I've got the line going up for a bit to minimize the amount of oil.
1. Mount the fuel pump on the gearbox higher than the Puls outlet from the engine and horizontal , look in the Mikuni installation manual. 2. If you use Pumpgas replace the pump diaphragm every year !! They didn’t cost much . 3. After 3 to 5 weeks the Pumpgas is already not anymore the same !! 4. Use alcohol free gas when ever possible .5. Drain the tank and the carbs before longer periods of non usage . 6. Use the best 2 stroke oil you can get .7. Shake the the tank , even when it’s only stands for a week or two ! 8. Before longer in use time , conserve your engine , it’s very simple , buy 2 spray bottles of fogging oil ( engine conservation) remove the air filters, start the engine , let it run in idle or little 🎉higher , spray the fogging oil simultaneously in both inlets until the engine dies , plug the engine inlets and the exhaust outlet don’t turne the engine . Next spring , remove the plugs , turn the engine by hand several times, than simply start it ! Keep it alive WTH the throttle until the smoke stops . Then it will hold almost for ever !
All of this seems to be really good advice. Thank you.
Very good and pleasantly taught. I wrote it all down. Thanks.
This video was great and explain very good the life and use lasting of this particular engine,I will also suggest a fuel hose hook up system including line filters,fuel pump,the correct clamps and so and so.
Thank you, great video and well worth the time watching...
Thank you very much... Great info in simple manner... Thx again
it is as safe as your maintainance. egt gives you indication of lean condition. Rotax recommends 5 years on rubber parts.
Why did my engine lose power after takeoff? I made it back safely, barely. Rotax 503 points, dc/di, A box, 3 blade warp drive prop. Temps normal. Engine starts and runs. Have not flown since.
What should idle rpms be at? 2000? Good video !
Thanks for the insight
Hey Harmon did you do vids on adding a back up fuel pump and or controlling vibration on wires that are exposed on Rotax engines ? Great video thanks . just bought one of these birds used . I’m trying to learn as much as I can . Thanks Dan
My piston has a big detonation blast hole in the center. :-/ I didn't put it there though. I try to read the number stamped on the piston to find the same size to replace it with but it's really hard to read. Anyway, they didn't tell me that when they sold it to me. I had brought a compression tester with me but in a parking lot I really didn't feel like going through all that. I would of bought it anyway since I drove so far to pick it up and only paid $250 bucks.
My best guess is someone ran it with a hotter break in spark plug than the normal spark plug, because the spark plugs in it were the ones recommended for break in?
Measure diameter with micrometer or digital vernier caliper.
Excellent stuff
Super helpful info thank you for taking the time to make this. I’m looking at a single carb 503. Anything I should look for? Has a belt drive for a phantom x1. I noticed the fuel pump in the phantom I’m going to buy is vertical. I should change the orientation or ok to leave it?
Rotax recommends change it, but I see many oriented that way!
Thank you!
Thanks for the info. New Sub
Hello. I just bought a Rans s14 with a 503 dc/di and don't know much about it and haven't flown it yet, Is it possible to talk to you because I have a number of questions? Great videos btw and lots of info. Thanks
ronniej sure. My phone is 281-744-1071. Call tomorrow if you can.
What happens to the bad fuel to cause the problem?
Mostly damage f on ethanol, but old fuel can become corrosive.
You can have evaporation of some of the organic molecules that make up the fuel blend and that usually lowers your octane rating of the fuel, making detonation more likely.
You should have 90 angle between carburetor and engine. Check it!
Helloo sirr howw too makkee 22 strokee engineee inn jndiaa
Hello, what RPM would you suggest for warm up? I've been going between 2000 and 2500. 1800 seems to make the engine vibrate too much. Also, what water temp would you suggest? I've been waiting to about 60 degrees Celsius before taxi. Thanks!
Very helpfull
Great video
very good
How to get engine??
Hey good info BUT! I think at some point you said you mix oil with gas at 50:1 ratio AND use the oil injection system then said, “more oil is better.”
IF that’s what you said that is definitely incorrect! If the manufacturer recommends 50:1 that’s what the mixture should be. Any other ratio will be harmful to the engine as the fuel air ratio will burn at the wrong temperature.
Yes, you should use either the oil injection system installed on the engine OR mix oil 50:1. More oil won't harm the engine. It will provide more lubriction. The downside is, you risk building up carbon deposits on your piston/spark plug and fouling during run up or flight. Choose either premix or injection, and make sure your EGT is at a stable reading of 1000-1100F. If you do use a richer oil mixture than what is recommended and get by without fouling a spark plug, you notice a reduction of power only, with no harm to the engine. I've been flying Rotax 2-strokes for many years and love them. Replace rubber carb sockets every 2 years with aftermarket vs Rotax. Sometimes the Rotax brands have cracks when new. I hope this helps.
dude i have a grubee skyhawk 2 stroke 48 cc and it only runs when I'm moving then when i stop the engine stops any ideas?
Almost impossible to diagnose over the internet. 2 strokes only need 3 things to run. spark, Fuel and compression. I have seen a lot of weed eater motors that exhibit this symptom. Sometimes they will run cold, and after they warm up, they want to die or run poorly. this is usually low compression. I always operate on the KISS theory. Keep it simple stupid. start with the easiest thing first. fuel, then move to spark, finally compression. Here is my last piece of advice. Carbs just dont get out of adjustment. The motor usually has changed, or the carb has gummed up. turning the adjustment screws will almost never solve your problems. good luck!
Seems like if any one of those tubes pops off because a clamp slips off or vibrates loose, that's it, that's all she wrote for your engine. None of it looks safety wired on.
Start at 4:02. You're welcome.
Your use of the term "gas" to describe the fuel is confusing to non-Americans.
Keeping
10:01 - 10:09 I strongly disagree with your advice
As is your right. My advice is worth what you pay for it. Not sure why the sound failed? 😉
@@harmonhart6274 No stress was just messing with you. Actually enjoyed the whole video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
@@df3yt thanks for the ball busting! Lol😆
some General Aviation con man sold me a two cylinder two stroke with a detonated head which I didn't find out about until I got it home. It's sat where I parked it ever since. Wahta waste of money. Don't trust other pilots, they are con men unloading hteir junk on you.
NBA
Pakistannn
It doesn't sound like a very safe engine to use on an aircraft... the whole possibility of getting an air leak anywhere destroying your engine is a piss poor design. Now if there is some kind of gauge or sensor or warning light you can install (for example O2 sensor in exhaust like on fuel injected cars)) that would immediately warn you of a lean condition that that might make it a workable decent engine.. if you can immediately shut it down. I'm just not impressed with the multiple points of catastrophic failure on a two stroke. Why use vinyl lines for example when you could design it with metal ducts in the engine blocks or metal tubes that would never age or crack?
+CHOPPERGIRL AIRWAR Your EGT gauges do exactly what you suggested, they immediately warn you of an over lean condition. Two-strokes definitely require more maintenance and care than a four-stroke, but they provide a MUCH higher power to weight ratio which is essential for flying lightweight aircraft. (not to mention that they are often significantly less expensive)
Right- EGT guage to prevent one of most common causes of failure.
Yeah, I have a CHT / EGT gauge and it doesn't tell me anything but numbers. No red zone, no green zone, no yellow zone, and rather confusing for how the needles are positioned in one gauge. Digital seems a better way to go.
Still, I think these vinyl lines need to be replaces with metal tubes that won't vibrate off or crack, if any air leak anywhere is going to fuck up your engine asap.
No useful information
No useful comment!
Water can accumulate if verticle mounting fuel pump ....!!