I've had 3 x trails, 2 T30's and 1 T31. I still have a T30 I purchased in 2011. You're right about the rust. I've completly treated the entire underbody. I get heavily subsidised parts through work so my car has never had an advisory on its MOT. I have had trouble with rear brakes but I think it's where I park it. It can spend a lot of time parked up with snow clearing equipment, so I think that causes a bit of corrosion. Problems I've had, Egr valve sticking (easy fix) cracking on the intercooler (rh forward corner looking forward. Top radiator rubber mounts. Passenger side electric window slow to move ( I've had to take off the door card and lube it a couple or times. Number plate light assembly corroded ( I switched to LED's) Minor running gear and steering issues like track rod ends and drop links occasionally. Change the fluids as often as you can. Brake fluid and oil change is so easy I usually do it at work during my lunch brake. Another thing, if you dont do a brake fluid change reasonably ofter when you do come to do it you'll find the bleed nipples seized and they can be difficult to remove. The T30 is a great little car!
I'm still pleased with mine. Still on original clutch, DMF and timing chains at 151,500 miles. I will need to replace both rear shocks before long as they're getting tired despite passing bounce test.
I have been looking into soft-roaders and 4x4's alike trying to gain information on different cars and work out which one to buy as my next project. Thanks to your video, I am now one step closer to my descision. Thankyou. I now need to watch your x trail files to see what other tips you have on the subject.
If you do go for a T30, check those rear suspension turrets, rear jacking points very carefully. Probably the most important check to do on these cars. Have a look and test-drive several if you can.
Hey i have been watching your videos very helpful i just got a t30 and when i open rear doors there is some rust showing have you had any experience with rust in that location?
Hi no, not seen rust on the arch/door aperture or 'dog leg' but have experienced it on the inner lip at the top of the arch where inner arch and wheel well are spot welded and bonded together. Nissan used a foam type urethane adhesive sealant which over the years absorbs and traps moisture. If outer arch has rusted through, there are outer repair panels available. Inner arch panels have to be fabricated.
Thanks for the info. I bought my xtrail back in April so its due for a service in a few months. I dont know the age of the brake fluid or the coolant so am going to change both of them on your advice. It had been pads all round when I bought the car but have slowly noticed the pedal is becoming spongy. Am going to strip and clean the sliders with the hope that with the fluid change, itll sort out the spongy feel. Ta. Ps my mrs has a 206 so your videos are handy for that too
Hi, great cars and so practical. Spongy brake pedal can be down to old fluid that's absorbed water vapour over time. If full bleed doesn't improve pedal, you can hose clamp all four flexible hoses then see how the pedal feels. If pedal is rock hard then issue is with calipers or hoses bulging under pressure. If pedal still soft then there's either lots of air bubbles or a fault with master cylinder. Hopefully yours just needs a brake bleed and/or brake service. The 206 is also tough little car. Apparently Pug 206's are popular in Africa in areas with rough roads.
@@TK42138 yeah I've had mine 9 months and I love it. I'm yet to check out the rear turrets but i, like you made sure i could get the best one i could. No tow bar. Full service etc i do all my own work as i enjoy working on old bangers haha. The pugs ain't too bad, my mrs has 2 of them. So ive done loads to her main one. Bloody awkward sometimes.
@@stockysshed I had fun getting the ball joint pins back in the hub when I did the clutch on the 206. Not a fan of parallel sided pins. Prefer good ol' tapers
Have the 2.2 sve. Absolutely superb car for reliability. 166,000 and no engine issues. Problem however is £320 a year road tax. For that reason it has to go. I'm all for cheap transport and I've identified the Chevrolet Aveo 1.3 diesel. This is zero road tax and has the fiat 1.3 multijet diesel which is very well regarded. The same engine can be found in the panda and vauxhall corsa however those cars are at least £1,500 more than the aveo. For larger diesel engines which have either zero or £20 /£30 tax you will be paying a few thousand more, such as the toyota 1.4d auris etc.
That's a shame it has to go. I agree - the car tax is starting to bite (although I pay in installments) along with the price of diesel and rises in utility bills, it's approaching that time where one has to question the practicality of running an oldskool SUV that only gets 38mpg on a good day. Having said that I'm going to keep my T30 through the winter and then make a decision next year. Good luck with your future car choices.
T31 was a redesign and essentially a totally new car with nothing carried over from the previous T30 even though there is a slight resemblance. The engines are all two litre Renault/Nissan units with better efficiency and higher output than the old T30 Nissan engines however being an all alloy design they don't tolerate overheating at all, so service history is vital. The 173 bhp diesel is the one to go for if towing.
@@franknyanda4164 Yes. Tough old iron block alloy head YD22 lump whereas the T31 went with the Renault all alloy MR engines. What causes confusion about the 'DCi' badge on the T30 is that Nissan wanted to tie in the nomenclature with what Renault where using so used the DCi despite all T30 using Japanese engines. The words 'Nissan' and 'Japan' are actually cast into the block.
Good question. There's a couple of UK Xtrail Facebook pages; Nissan X Trail UK Nissan Xtrail Owners UK and I think someone asked similar question. I believe the plastic trim surrounding the radio unit is unclipped and pulled away to reveal radio mounting screws.
@@TK42138 Think `tis more to do with the satnav complicating things - the ISO connectors/adaptors avail seem to be all non satnav - have left a message on xtrail uk forum but it`s not very active. Watch this space! Thanks for gettin` back on this TK
![[Part 1] ทารกน้อยถูกทิ้ง👶 หญิงชราเก็บขวดขายเลี้ยงดูเขาจนโต #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nPTDvFCExks/mqdefault.jpg)
Just got a T30 2.2 dCi. The vids give a very welcome insight - Ta TK! Lots to learn but wish I had a garage!
I do all my car repair on the driveway. Garage is a tad full of junk 😆
Hi, I own a 2003 end xtrail t30 diesel, has now run 75k km. I thoroughly enjoy it and am looking after it like my baby.
I've had 3 x trails, 2 T30's and 1 T31. I still have a T30 I purchased in 2011. You're right about the rust. I've completly treated the entire underbody.
I get heavily subsidised parts through work so my car has never had an advisory on its MOT.
I have had trouble with rear brakes but I think it's where I park it. It can spend a lot of time parked up with snow clearing equipment, so I think that causes a bit of corrosion.
Problems I've had, Egr valve sticking (easy fix) cracking on the intercooler (rh forward corner looking forward. Top radiator rubber mounts. Passenger side electric window slow to move ( I've had to take off the door card and lube it a couple or times. Number plate light assembly corroded ( I switched to LED's)
Minor running gear and steering issues like track rod ends and drop links occasionally.
Change the fluids as often as you can.
Brake fluid and oil change is so easy I usually do it at work during my lunch brake. Another thing, if you dont do a brake fluid change reasonably ofter when you do come to do it you'll find the bleed nipples seized and they can be difficult to remove. The T30 is a great little car!
I'm still pleased with mine. Still on original clutch, DMF and timing chains at 151,500 miles. I will need to replace both rear shocks before long as they're getting tired despite passing bounce test.
Most informative. Thankyou.
I have been looking into soft-roaders and 4x4's alike trying to gain information on different cars and work out which one to buy as my next project.
Thanks to your video, I am now one step closer to my descision.
Thankyou.
I now need to watch your x trail files to see what other tips you have on the subject.
If you do go for a T30, check those rear suspension turrets, rear jacking points very carefully. Probably the most important check to do on these cars. Have a look and test-drive several if you can.
@@TK42138 thanks for the advice. Got a few in mind so it all helps my choice.
Much appreciated.
Hey i have been watching your videos very helpful i just got a t30 and when i open rear doors there is some rust showing have you had any experience with rust in that location?
Hi no, not seen rust on the arch/door aperture or 'dog leg' but have experienced it on the inner lip at the top of the arch where inner arch and wheel well are spot welded and bonded together. Nissan used a foam type urethane adhesive sealant which over the years absorbs and traps moisture. If outer arch has rusted through, there are outer repair panels available. Inner arch panels have to be fabricated.
@@TK42138 thank you luckily mine are clean currently
Nice one chum, good to see and hear youre still happy with the beast, can't quite get my head around that it's now been 4 years plus!!
The time has flown by. No idea where the years go 😆
Thanks for the info. I bought my xtrail back in April so its due for a service in a few months. I dont know the age of the brake fluid or the coolant so am going to change both of them on your advice. It had been pads all round when I bought the car but have slowly noticed the pedal is becoming spongy. Am going to strip and clean the sliders with the hope that with the fluid change, itll sort out the spongy feel. Ta. Ps my mrs has a 206 so your videos are handy for that too
Hi, great cars and so practical. Spongy brake pedal can be down to old fluid that's absorbed water vapour over time. If full bleed doesn't improve pedal, you can hose clamp all four flexible hoses then see how the pedal feels. If pedal is rock hard then issue is with calipers or hoses bulging under pressure. If pedal still soft then there's either lots of air bubbles or a fault with master cylinder. Hopefully yours just needs a brake bleed and/or brake service.
The 206 is also tough little car. Apparently Pug 206's are popular in Africa in areas with rough roads.
@@TK42138 yeah I've had mine 9 months and I love it. I'm yet to check out the rear turrets but i, like you made sure i could get the best one i could. No tow bar. Full service etc i do all my own work as i enjoy working on old bangers haha. The pugs ain't too bad, my mrs has 2 of them. So ive done loads to her main one. Bloody awkward sometimes.
@@stockysshed I had fun getting the ball joint pins back in the hub when I did the clutch on the 206. Not a fan of parallel sided pins. Prefer good ol' tapers
@@TK42138 getting the hubs back on 206 ball joints is one of the jobs I hate!
@@stockysshed Mine were slightly rusted which essentially jams them tight in the hub. New swear words were invented on that day. 😆
Have the 2.2 sve. Absolutely superb car for reliability. 166,000 and no engine issues. Problem however is £320 a year road tax. For that reason it has to go. I'm all for cheap transport and I've identified the Chevrolet Aveo 1.3 diesel. This is zero road tax and has the fiat 1.3 multijet diesel which is very well regarded. The same engine can be found in the panda and vauxhall corsa however those cars are at least £1,500 more than the aveo. For larger diesel engines which have either zero or £20 /£30 tax you will be paying a few thousand more, such as the toyota 1.4d auris etc.
That's a shame it has to go. I agree - the car tax is starting to bite (although I pay in installments) along with the price of diesel and rises in utility bills, it's approaching that time where one has to question the practicality of running an oldskool SUV that only gets 38mpg on a good day.
Having said that I'm going to keep my T30 through the winter and then make a decision next year. Good luck with your future car choices.
What is the difference between the T30 & T31?
T31 was a redesign and essentially a totally new car with nothing carried over from the previous T30 even though there is a slight resemblance. The engines are all two litre Renault/Nissan units with better efficiency and higher output than the old T30 Nissan engines however being an all alloy design they don't tolerate overheating at all, so service history is vital. The 173 bhp diesel is the one to go for if towing.
It's a renault engine the dci engine is Renault
The two litre DCi as fitted to the T31 is the Renault unit. The 2.2 DCi as fitted to the T30 and other older Nissan models is a Nissan design.
@@TK42138 ...and the Nissan design is more reliable than the Renault design
@@franknyanda4164 Yes. Tough old iron block alloy head YD22 lump whereas the T31 went with the Renault all alloy MR engines. What causes confusion about the 'DCi' badge on the T30 is that Nissan wanted to tie in the nomenclature with what Renault where using so used the DCi despite all T30 using Japanese engines. The words 'Nissan' and 'Japan' are actually cast into the block.
Realise you a mech and not autoelec pal, but don`t happen tp know owt about replacing radio on a eTrail with satnav, do ya?!
Good question. There's a couple of UK Xtrail Facebook pages;
Nissan X Trail UK
Nissan Xtrail Owners UK
and I think someone asked similar question. I believe the plastic trim surrounding the radio unit is unclipped and pulled away to reveal radio mounting screws.
@@TK42138 Think `tis more to do with the satnav complicating things - the ISO connectors/adaptors avail seem to be all non satnav - have left a message on xtrail uk forum but it`s not very active. Watch this space! Thanks for gettin` back on this TK
The various Xtrail Facebook pages tend to reply quicker than the forums.