Safely(ish) removing a clinker-block wall (Renovation Part 21)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I’m removing a non load-bearing wall to make the bathroom bigger. I know folks will ask, but the reason I’m not removing ALL of the blockwork is since I’d then have to re-fit ALL the doorways upstairs. I’d probably also have to remove the other bathroom wall. So... nope. Remember, always check with a structural engineer before doing work like this.
Here’s the full 1920’s semi renovation playlist:
• 1920's SEMI RENOVATION
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#Renovation #Construction #Remodel
A point on the supporting wall running from the ground all the way up to the loft. My supporting wall (in the centre of the house) has a 12 to 18 inch offset between the ground floor wall and the first floor wall but it is still classed as a supporting wall. The floor joists on the first floor provide the link/load bearing between the two offset walls.
Really impressed what you did with that wall, especially double and treble checking that it wasn't supporting. Great music btw, I wish you would credit it on a link so that I could track it down.
Good stuff
That was like a scene from the Great Escape when you locked yourself in and had to exit via the wall!! LOL
We did similar. Knocked down all upstairs walls which were bricks laid on their sides on top of floor boards. Extended bathroom by 2 feet into main bedroom to have shower separate from bath. Was a very good decision
I renovated a property about 25 years ago in Wales - very similar to the one you are doing. A lot of the upstairs walls were built on the floorboards and were cast in place. I guess they used a lot of flyash from the nearby steelworks. One of the walls you could 'flex' as it wasn't adhered to the floorboards below!!
Great job you are doing though. It gets better IMO when all the really dirty jobs are done and the fitout is underway but I was living in the property while I renovated.
Been there! It's really hard living in a property while doing this sort of work so you have my sympathies. 👍
It is interesting how different methods were used in different eras. Our Victorian terrace has stud wall between two bedrooms and it holds the roof up. Conversely we have brick walls (bricks laid on edge) for what are now a bathroom upstairs and utility room below. Originally the house was for two families and these rooms were the kitchen so a basic fire protection presumably. Really enjoy watching your work, as it reminds me of me thirty years ago.
Thank you! Interesting!
That little step platform is nice to work on!
Didn't expect the smooth jazz at the end😁
My first "first" ever! Love your work Andy!
Thank you and congrats on 1st! 😎
@@GosforthHandyman 👍👍 thanks! 😍
Timber walls can be structurally significant. Also some buildings will have cross walls which act together with the external walls to stiffen the building. Glad advice was sought better safe than sorry!
Great job as usual
Cheers Tahir!
Looking good mate 👌
Cheers - getting there!
Was suffering withdrawal symptoms this morning due to no “Gosovation”” fix for two weeks. Then you came through with the gear. Nice one, thanks Andy. Have you bought yourself a Stihl Saw now? (also useful for zombie apocalypses)
Thank you! Bit up against it for the next few weeks but got a massive backlog of vids to get edited. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman our bathrooms way smaller than that
My dad took out a load bearing wall like a lot of other people in the neighborhood. He was the only one fitting a steel beam to bring the load to posts on either side.
The neighbors had cracks in the upstairs walls within a year. We haven't had any during the 40 years my parents lived there after that.
Sounds like your dad did it properly - good work! 👍
@@GosforthHandyman he was a welder at a steel construction company. He was smart enough to pick up a lot from the constructions he worked on.
@4:57 I'm reminded just how filthy plaster and lathe in on the backside.
A real health issue if you think about it.
Its so strange but your house is basically identical to mine. Must have been built by the same company..
I had the SAME wall only mine was stud thank God. Taking that out to create an enlarged bathroom was 2nd biggest job internally after insulating under the suspended floors and sound proofing the alcoves! Small world. :)
Great video Andy, thanks !!!!!!
No worries!
"locked myself in" and that's when he knew he was commited to taking the wall out 😅
That did cross my mind. 🤣👍
Did this about 6 years ago, not in a hurry to do it again. That dust gets absolutely everywhere, if there's a crack or crevice it will get packed with dust....not comfortable.
You've made a nice size room there, shame you have to partition it.
The other consideration about the wall not being loaded bearing: the ceiling joist is resting on the interior wall (perpendicular to it at its end) and the exterior wall (at its other end), just like the joists on either side.
Defo, another good point! 👍
I was just thinking, 'you need a bigger hammer', and along it comes, nice one Andy.
Ha yes, that did the job! 😁
looks good - do you think this could be done by a novice ? or how much would it cost for a builder to remove and wall like this ?
You'd need to get in touch with a structural engineer to confirm that the wall isn't load bearing. If the wall isn't load bearing there is no reason why you couldn't attempt this job. It's as simple as hitting it with a sledge hammer.
They're collar ties going rafter to rafter, you can see it in the roof space. Collat ties stop the walls spreading and in your case they are also used as ceiling joists. If this is the same all over, the only load baring walls are the outside
Defo, although some non-load-bearing walls could be used as racking supports so that's worth checking too. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman true as long as they are connected in a correct fashion.
I am not sure if you have spoken about the attic and the foam insulation and wonder what you think of it?
No lintels installed at all
Noticed several comments on Spray Foam Insulation. Is it considered a negative thing on your side of the pond? Lot of advocates for it here.
There's a lot of scaremongering. Jury's out. No issues here. 👍
I'm curious - In a property of this age, how do you determine whether or not there is any risk of disturbing asbestos that may have been used?
Most likely area would be artex on the walls, but no signs of that here. Just lots and lots of woodchip. 🤣🤣
Out of interest, how much would it cost to involve a structural engineer? Never had the need so don’t know how they charge etc.
Probably £500-1000 depending on the extent of what you wanted them to do. For something like this they generally already know these properties very well (from other people's extensions etc.) so can normally advise on simple stuff like this over a quick phone call, if they're already doing other work for you. 😁👍
Did you inform your local council that you are removing that wall ?
Do you think it's notifiable?
@@paulteasdale7112 in my office it is
Not notifiable. 👍
not a structural element, does not need notified
@@greggbutler9344 🔔
What if the plaster contains asbestos
Why would plaster contain asbestos? Artex might, but not normal plaster.
I'm pretty sure that's not a thing...
@@TheErador it is especially in plaster made in the 60s and 70s
@@TheErador the plaster boards can also contain asbestos
@@belltond1527 according to armco.org.uk: Asbestos cement was mostly used in commercial buildings and added to walls that were fire rated such as lift shafts.
Therefore, it’s very uncommon to find homes that contain any asbestos in plaster walls and ceilings.
When doing a job like this it is worth investing in a couple of sheets of cheap(er) sheathing ply to lay on the floor on each side of the wall. This stops the falling debris leaving divots all over the floor boards and gives a continuous flat surface that is much easier to shovel/sweep off.
back breaking yes.
it helps a bit to keep thinking about those awesome glutes you'll come away with....
:D
Might have been better to stitch drill it save the dust
Laths not latts
@12:20 I sincerely hope you don't have any computer or electronic equipment in that house because, take it from experience, that fine plaster dust gets everywhere and into everything and loves to short out electronics.
Redoing my house, I lost a stereo, TV and a computer to that fine dusr, even though we had sections taped off and sealed in the doorways with plastic sheathing.
Curious as to why you didn't just take out the whole wall, and replace the bit above the door with plasterboard to allow you to position the wall coming straight out? Do you prefer the rooms to be less regular? I'd prefer if they were more regular so was just curious.
It’s so interesting to watch this renovation, Andy. Thanks again for sharing 🌞
No worries at all Ray!
You always have a video I need ❤😂
Ha ha cheers Vikki! Your new gaff looks amazing btw! 😍
I bet it felt good to hammer down that wall with the sledge hammer, probably with the thoughts of the stress your last builders caused you in your mind at the time :)
Too right! I think they were still there when I was filming this too! 😂
If it's was me I would take out the wall above the two doors. When you renew the bathroom wall you can renew above the doors at the same time. It will be easier to tie it all in. Because if you don't the wall above the doors may move in time and crack.
Agree. Just get rid of all the cinder blocks whilst you have the skips
4 new walls, 4 new door frames, full re-route of a load of electrics, plus yet another skip. Not as easy as it sounds. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman no I only mean the 1m square of wall above the bathroom and bedroom. Keep up the good work.
Cheers! They're all toothed in to each other so taking out one would take out the rest unfortunately.
@@GosforthHandyman ok. Good luck.
Looks awfully similar to the kitchen wall I took down in a 1930s flat. Except I had a reinforced concrete beam running over the cinderblocks.
Structural engineers looking for jobs these days. Too many diyers 😂
I'd love to say that I'd never locked myself into a room but.......😂 Another good video Andy, glad to see the project is moving forward for you.
Ha ha, I really must sort the handle on that door before I get trapped in there without my multitool. 🤣
FWIW for the probe through the ceiling use a long piece (obviously straight) of wire coat-hanger as a drill bit.
You are the building detective. BTW when you are demolishing a wall if you start at the bottom it does come down faster.😉👍
Great video Andy, as always. How big is the current house and how big it is going to be after extension done (sqm)? I like your garden area! So much potential!
Well done man. I enjoyed watching this and I liked your presentation, very informative. Thank you.
Looked 'a good quality' cinder block wall. Don't think they used 'ash mortar' (that would have been easier to demolish)? Just what size were the blocks - I'm guessing 3 feet by 1 foot? Would have enjoyed to help but have to remember, 'I'm allergic to old plaster and cement dust' - what a pain!
Yes, they seemed big blocks! 👍
Why don’t you wet the plaster so that you don’t get dust everywhere.
I just subscribed after watching your BMX Ramp video... then I noticed this video... I broke down a concrete wall last year to expand my workshop... was nearly the death of me... good job!
I'm well on my way to collecting sufficient knackered rubble tubs for a domestic DIY rubble chute.with the price of orange buckets what it is, a tenners worth with the bottom cut out could reach a skip from a first floor window and do a job. Often thought even a tarp wrapped it a tube would direct bricks, small stuff and particularly dust in the right direction.
Great idea! I could do with coming up with a plan by the time we do the knock-through for the extension. That will get messy. 🤣
At 12:30 that's exactly the moment I would have had to use the toilet urgently :^)
Making great progress, Andy !
I know! Glad I had my multitool in my pocket. 🤣👍
Well if you hadn't it would've given you impetus to knock the wall down quicker!
The footage isn't sped up 😂
Excellent video Andy, no doubt it will come in handy for my next renovation project. What are you thoughts on using a fan and creating a negative pressure environment as dust is always an issue with any house renovations. I know it’s popular in the US but nether found a video from someone doing it in the uk
Cheers! I certainly could have done with that on some of the projects. Cutting out the new window opening in the hallway was even worse. Literally couldn't see where I was cutting. 🤣
It is something that works well, I made a piece of board which fits in the window opening with a small industrial grade fan in it sucking the air from inside the house out.
With the doors closed of the room you work in it creates and under pressure preventing dust from entering other rooms in the house, the small gap under the door just allows fresh air to get in, otherwise the door can be kept open at a small gap to get more ventilation.
Are you going to keep the lath and plaster ceiling and risk it collapsing or rip out and re-board.
I once lived in a house where the entire ceiling literally peeled off from one end to the other in one go.
Most common approach is to overboard and skim. Some of my lathe ceilings had polytex on them and looked fine but I suspect that was the only thing holding them up still. Overboarded. Didn't regret it.
If I locked myself in I'd have great pleasure putting my size 11's through the door to get out :)
Lol, yeah - or just straight through the wall! 😁
Hi Andy, size of clinker blocks can vary, I have investigated structures where similar blocks were 900 x 450 (or 36" x 18" in old money).
Cheers - yeah, these ones seemed to be huge! Tongue and groove too! 👍
Only just realised what clinker blocks are! I have not heard people call the dense concrete blocks that. Could it be a regional thing?
Just break down that bit near the door Andy, it's not doing anything anyway you discovered. It'll save you nasty edges later on.
Not sure, I would keep something there, though maybe not this bit of wall. Not to support the blocks above, but to give some lateral support to the door frame.
Totally agree I’d take the rest down above the doors then rebuild with stud work while you do the new wall.
That would also take out the wall above the bathroom wall which is tied in to it. That would in turn take out all the other walls and leave me with 4 door frames to replace.
I'd have ran a mile from the property seeing that horrible spray foam insulation
Not an issue, already had it checked over. If it ever turns in to an issue, which it won't, I'll just replace the roof. Really not a big deal. 👍
I'm just in the process of getting a new roof as my house has spray foam 🤞
I'm sorry mate, I did let out a chuckle at you locking yourself inside 😁. Nice demo, though!
@3:38 almost fell off my chair with laughter XD
😎
Hiya. Great vid and I'm currently checking all the others out now. 😊
My question is, what tools did you use for the various stages of the removal. Amd what is the "more appropriate " you now have which you alluded to?
Cg
We have a 200-year-old house in Yorkshire. The construction is really weird. Some of the party walls are build on top of the floors. Nett result is that the whole house bounces ever so slightly.
Wondered how long it would be until the sledge hammer came out. When I saw all the mess, my thought was, get the wife upstairs quick!
I did laugh at the timelapse of you knocking the wall out...reminds me of benny hill sketches😂
With all mess knocking down your wall l would have removed the wall above doorways and replaced it with studding
Latts, I kept thinking but they're laths, but what do I know I'm a Brummie, Lol 😁
Thought you may have mentioned you checked in the loft before you drilled holes up through the ceiling.
Sir in your video of your door build do you have any of the window panels left
What’s your work situation like at the moment are you still on the tools as it where?
Fantastic video again mate. Love these. Keep them coming!
Can't wait to start my own channel showing my renovation off 😀
o no, a sprayed foam roof.
It's closed cell and had it checked over, all fine. 👍👍
Love the clear way this is explained
That’s not a load bearing wall.
Awesome Vlog Andy and Great Job Well Done,At First I Though It Looked Like One Of These Urban Explore Videos But You've Certainly Made A Good Job Cleaning Up Buddy. At Least You Know Now Its Not A Money Pit and All The Tear Downs Have Not Unearth Problems. Keep Up The Awesome Work And Stay Safe Buddy.
Cheers! Yes, I think (fingers crossed) most of the major issues are now fixed. 👍
Thank you mate.
High, I have a 1924 bungalow down south, and we have/had cinder block internal walls, my father looked at it, and said the horns(the upper door frame sides) on the door frames might go through to the loft, and they did, so no lintels but cinder blocks over the door opening and when we went in the loft the non-structural walls were like yours, ie the ceiling laths ran right across, the walls were added later. So not unusual for that period, door frames that support cinder blocks. My dad came from Sunderland, and he was a carpenter, so I think this was normal construction for that period in lots of areas.
Interesting stuff - great info!
Great 👍
Was that cinder block wall properly anchored into the perpendicular wall? I took one down in my house that was “anchored” with 3 nails over the entire height (and they didn’t even bother to remove the wall paper (let alone plaster) to try to have proper adhesion to the bricks in the perpendicular wall.
Yeah, it was loosely toothed in. Not very well though. 😁
Just a thought since I don't know, BUT when on buys a house does one not get the blueprint for the house with it and if not, are they stored somewhere, like town archives?
These houses are 100 years old.
In answer to your question, no you do not..
Giggled when you broke out the 4.5" Andy! Wishful thinking😆 Good job done!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I know! It was a lot of dust for a very shallow cut 😂. Since invested in a 12" cutter. 👍
Great stuff. Thanks Andy.
Took a load bearing wall away to create a large living/dining room. Was Lucky to have undivided steal beams going from on side to the other, rather then beams going half the way and resting on the wall. We noticed after 3 years that the floor was forming a valley and there was space under the baseboard now. Fixed it by pushing the ceiling back to the correct level and with a massive 220 kg steel beam :)
That sounds full-on! 👍
That looked like it took much longer than it did. Are you making that an en suite? That coat hook on back of bedroom door looks some age :)
That will be family bathroom, master bed will have a separate en-suite. 👍
I'm sure someone might have asked .... what does belt and braces mean lol 😆
Being overly cautious for peace of mind. The expression means someone wearing both a belt and braces (suspenders) to keep their trousers up - not necessary but your trousers certainly wouldn't be falling down! In this context, being overly cautious with the structural elements for future peace of mind.
I had a house built exactly the same. Another check is the floor boards going underneath the wall. I like those walls as the are very good for sound deadening. (As long as they are in the place you want them to be)
Love the dust, are you still finding it about your person?
Yes, the dust is endless. 🤣
Excellent video Andy, I did this a couple of months ago on my 1935 house to combine separate toilet and bathroom. Clinker blocks make a hell of a mess, still picking bits out of my pants! Each of my blocks took a lot of drilling and breaking seem to be more robust yours.
P.S. more on the drum studio when you can please mine is now watertight and I'm starting the inside next week.
Fantastic stuff! The drum studio is my workshop until the extension is built. 👍
1980s house. Just had a builder (semi retired brickie) take down the first floor chimney stack.No chimney, duct through loft to vented tile. Not supporting anything but the bulding standards !!!
3 floorboards only supported at joist 15 in away, finished under skirting against chimney wall. No wonder it always creaked relying on T&G to hold it all together.
The inner leaf to wall is made of a mix of alternate rows of blocks and broken bricks with no overlap. Metal ties in mortar occasionally.
And he just used hammer & chisel to take it down (old skool no power tools) what a mess. The plasterer is going to complain when he comes tomorrow!!
Wow! Good luck with the plastering!
Thanks for the support. Plasterer ended up re arranging his workload to do it over two days as it was taking so long to dry.
I've just purchased a 1920s property myself and this series makes me very nervous 😬
You'll be fine! Old houses are great, just be prepared to get your hands dirty. 👍😎
Angle grinder with vacuum attachment, cut the cinder blocks into manageable sizes and remove each piece individually top to bottom. makes the clean up much easier!
The dust was biblical.
@@GosforthHandyman yeah maybe even vacuum wouldn't make much difference, but the clear up afterwards is maybe worth the dust.
What’s the difference between brease block, cinder block and concrete blocks?
Cinder blocks are normally made from the ash and waste materials from nearby power stations etc. Concrete blocks are normally solid concrete. Breeze blocks are normally aerated in some way, but the terms can be quite interchangeable. So for example I've seen concrete blocks being called breeze blocks. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman i always thought the concrete ones with the two big holes were breeze blocks. It's a minefield of terms as in any industry i guess
@@GosforthHandyman that makes sense. Thank you
Great video. Thanks. Cheers.
No worries!
Belt n braces! Good man👏🥳.
Getting there! 👍
Thanks. Great to see how you approached this.
No worries - glad you enjoyed it!
I do smile every time I see the old brickwork. 🙂
They're solid bricks too! 😎
How did you get a mortgage on a house with spray foam insulation?
...assuming you have a mortgage.
Spoke to several mortgage companies and surveyors. None of them said this was an issue, although I know there can be problems with older open cell insulation (this is closed cell). 👍
Why? Fire regs?
@@TheErador not as far as I am aware.
Spray foam will expand into all the nooks and crannies in the roof between tiling battens and rafters.
It effectively seals the roof.
This can lead to condensation and mould formation and degradation of the wood. From a maintenance point of view, working outside on a roof that's been spray foamed inside can be an absolute nightmare, the tiles are glued down!
A better way is to have a cold attic ventilated and the insulation at ceiling level, currently I think about 300mm of rockwool is used.
My knowledge is that many lenders will run a mile from a spray foamed roof. Andy's experience is not that however, good for him.
@@andrewclarkehomeimprovement i see.
There's sarking felt between the foam and the tiles. So the foam doesn't touch any battens - only the sides of the rafters and they're all in tip-top condition. If anything it's the ones that weren't foamed that had a small amount of bug damage. 👍
Love watching these
Cheers!
Lovely job mate !
Cheers bud! Another one off the list!
Great work and thanks for sharing this with us take care
No worries!
@@GosforthHandyman 👍🏻
Wow,had to sit down and rest for a while after that LOL
Ha ha, it was very dusty! 🤣
I love hard work, especially watching others do it...I'm retired now so that happens a lot😁
@@a..d5518 Isn't it nice when work becomes a "4" letter word.
i remember as a 10 yr old my dad knocking down a bathroom wall to the toilet room to make it all in one ( as 1950s council houses had them separate ) he just lump hammered right in the middle to start lmao
Ha ha, the direct approach. I like it. 👍