Yes, you were right. The very first iteration of the TIP had a couple of problems: High quiescent current draw when locked out, and visible PWM on low modes. The current iteration, like the one you dissected here, and the one I own, has solved the vampire current draw on lock-out, and has current regulation not PWM. The battery monitor that you weren't sure of is where you press the mode switch when the light is off and it will flash the LED to tell you the state of cell charge. And the LED flashing when you were testing the current draw was because it was detecting low cell voltage because of the voltage drop due to the burden voltage of the DMM.
Ah, so it may be controlling that mystery 8 pin chip perhaps? I certainly couldn't see PWM at all, but did notice intensity stepping in peripheral vision when the intensity was automatically ramping down.
It's crazy how much nitecore can shove into these extremely small flashlights, and how much functionality they have for their size. I swear if these things get any fancier someone would port doom to it
Clive, if you tap the power level button while the light is off, the LED behind he buttons will flash three times if the charge is around 75% or better, twice if 50% or better, and once if 25%. (I think those are the levels - don't know where my instructions went.)
I have an edition in a metal box with separate instruction booklet, that says 3 flashes is above 50%, 2 flashes between 10% and 50%, 1 flash is below 10% (it will also refuse to enter Turbo mode (360 lm) if it's low on power).
I have a CREE led version and that is what mine is 75% and up is three blinks between 75% and 50% is 2 and around 25% is one but it will not allow turbo at the point and at 15% it takes out the high mode not the turbo mode
I'm so happy you reviewed this light. I've been wearing one around my neck since last December. I have shitty eyes and I often need extra light, even with my glasses so I can see to read small print or see stuff that's in a shadow. I worry about having a Chinese Li-on cell around my neck, but I love this light. The UI is the best I've seen and this light has helped me a lot.
Max Phipps exactly why manufacturers won't send gear to nutnfancy (tactical gear channel self funded)....they know they'll get called out on shortcomings and it's not a good advertising dollar for them to have a slightly negative or full on negative video out there permanently
Clive, I really enjoy your videos! They're always informative with a great sense of humor! Since you've checked out several keychain lights recently, maybe you could try out some of the big boys. I own a Convoy L6 that runs ~5.25A through a four die LED emitter and is quite bright...since you like bright LED's and well built flashlights I thought it might be up your alley. Anyway, I hope that you keep making these great videos for us to enjoy. Cheers!
Sir, i bought this model when You published this review. I drove a car on top of it when it was like a year old, some time later button died, years later second one died and flashlight is still fine, fully working and lasts a long time on battery. I use it every other day and it is permanently bundled to keys, that i always carry around - properly hard to kill and a great product.
When you locked it out then checked it, the current went up briefly as you pressed the button, not sure if that was a meter glitch or if it was consuming more power. If ti was the latter and that button was mostly pressed while in the pocket, that may explain the discharge.
Thanks for the teardown. I have one of each, and find myself using the bigger one more, but that may be because the Mrs. frequently absconds with the smaller one...
They acknowledged the issue with the processor staying active in lock out mode and newer versions do not have that problem. Without the fix the buttons would flash red if you pressed one in lockout mode which is how you can tell which version you have. I think they changed the plugged in with light on behavior at the same time.
I have this keychain torch. There are 4 power levels, low/medium/high/turbo. The turbo drops to high, after about 30 seconds. The battery used to drain when it was locked out, but I understand they have fixed that now. When it is charging, the LED glows red, and when it is charged, it turns green. The thing you didn't mention is, when it is off, and the buttons are not locked out, if you press the power button once, the red Led flashes, 1,2,or 3 times to show how much power the battery has. I bought mine in 2017, and its still going.
A lot of micros have internal temperature sensing as a part of it's ADCs. Maybe that is involved? It'll monitor the battery temperature at the very least.
They do claim it will adapt to ambient temperature. So the dark grey component next to the "01D" 100k resistor could be an NTC (12:10), mostly measuring inductor temperature. The micro doesn't have one built in. Although with the turbo cool down you found, it seems like it wouldn't be used much.
The processor and transistors are pretty close to the battery when it's all in the housing. I wonder what it means for the battery temperature-wise when it's running for some time. Could get pretty hot I think.
Thermal management may be integral to to the led based on temp? It would be interesting to cool it and see if it's just a timed ramp or really thermal.
This video made me go buy one of these. A teardown video rather than a review video funny enough. I guess knowing what is inside makes me feel better about the quality. Quite a good keyring torch though.
One thing you missed when checking the "locked" current drain. What happens if a button is pressed while the light is locked? Does it provide power or ground to some pin of the control chip and thus have a few mA drain as long as a button is pressed?
I have a Nitecore EA11 with a very similar two-button setup, and it really will read out the battery's current voltage to you. The EA11 has two main LED's: the main white one, as well as a dim red one you can use to avoid killing your night vision. When you put a fresh battery in or lock the buttons, the red LED will flash out the voltage. For example, if the voltage is 3.7V, it'll flash three times, pause briefly, and then flash seven more times. Perhaps that's what the TIP packaging means? The EA11 also has a couple modes for flashing the LED, including a mode where it blinks the red LED periodically so you can find it in the dark. Perhaps that's what the blinking was doing? You engage the flashing by pressing the power button, then pressing and holding the brightness button; you can keep pressing and holding the brightness button to cycle through flashing modes. Alternatively, if the light is on in any mode, you can turn on the periodic red blinking by pressing and holding the power button; you might have done that by accident when the little LED started flashing? It might be intended for the same purpose of finding it in the dark as the flashing red LED in the EA11. (The red LED can be turned on constant by pressing the brightness button, and can be set to flash more frequently from there by pressing and holding the brightness button) Also, while the light's off, you can immediately put it into high mode by pressing and holding the brightness button, or low mode by pressing and holding the power button. I don't know if these features are also present in the TIP, but it's worth testing to see if they are, since many of them are quite useful. Especially the turning it on immediately in high or low mode.
Hey Clive, I would recommend also taking a look at the middle child in the family, the Thumb. It's rather good, if you never use it, but it has a major design flaw.
@Clive ....BTW, a "long, boring and blabbering" video about switch mode vs capacitive dropper supplies and detailed explanation of the functionality inside of each n where they're used would be AWESOME...especially filled with "as I say," "I'm not a 100% sure," "I will say," "shkotkey," "basically," ect. ;) you're the man! I've learned a "metric" shit ton from you n I appreciate the channel. THANKS AGAIN!
A way to do thermal management - could you monitor the LED junction voltage? I mean, it is a P/N junction after all, which will have a temperature coefficient. Maybe briefly drop the current to a low level first?
a 65Z might be a 3V-250mA LDO (exact type is XC6206P302MR), there are different 65% series LDO's (ranging from 1.2 up to 3.1V). The 21GG might be a 21G, a voltage detector (exact type APR3021-39A, again 21% series comes in different voltages) which would make sense to check if the voltage does not exceed a specific voltage. Source: SMD codes databook 2007 by Turuta
You can always check candlepowerforums and budgetlightforum for almost any flashlight circuit schematic. The modding community is amazingly thorough. If you think the TIP is advanced tech in a small package wait till you see homemade projects and community + manufacturer collaborations. Cheers :)
clive, if i send you an anker powerbank, will you give your opinion on it? i've always wanted to see what you thought of supposedly the best powerbanks versus the others you've torn down.
SuperAWaC I've torn 3 different ones apart.. the 5 bank, 4 bank and dual bank.. they are very very well built, using medium high grade caps, 5 port had rubycon caps... very clean output on the 5 port, 4 port was ok, dual port was rubbish... I've had the 5 port running for over a year at 8 amps, no issues..
SuperAWaC I would probably send him an email asking where to ship it to, and then just go ahead. His email can be verified at the website linked in the description of this video and is bigclive1@gmail.com
JJayzX , nice video buddy, good to see the insides of these, I like mine too much to teardown and I've heard they never go back together quite so well? Keep making the vids 👍
For such an in-depth review, run-times at each power setting would be useful. S'pose it'd vary depending on ambient temperature, as the throttling back of the current as the LED warms up would actually increase the run-time particularly in a hot environment
was there a hole in the packaging on the side where the usb was sitting? if so it is possible that there is a new firmware uploaded. also you can 'see' the bug if your flashlight has it. the led in the power button will light up a bit in lockout mode
I got one of these for myself for Christmas. They were on sale for a crazy low price, because it was in an ugly red and green Christmas color, and I guess they were having allot of trouble selling them. Anyway, I have 2 USB ports in the cubby in my car, and one is the perfect distance that when I plug this in, it sits right on the floor of the cubby. It's a switched USB, so it only charges when the engine is running. I keep it there, so whenever I need it, it's fully charged and ready to go! So far this has been an awesome light! I could see where this light might not be the best for pockets, because of the buttons. Also, there is absolutely no way this thing is even remotely waterproof... That being said, it's still an awesome little light!
I wonder, what's your opinion on the "THUMB" model. I have one in the mail. the reason I chose it is because it can be a cap light since it has a clip, and the LED head can be rotated. also dual LEDs and a red mode for keeping night vision in tact.
Could the 'locked out' power drain be caused by a single button kept pressed in the pocket (for example current flowing through a pull up resistor if the input is grounded or vice versa)
In theory with an ADC on the MCU they could have monitored the forward voltage of the LED. Not an ideal method of temperature sensing but it does work as the forward voltage drops with temp on some types.
Is it me or did the current jump up when the buttons were locked but you accidently pressed a single button? Or was it down to a poor connection on the clips?
Which could have been the reason for the power drain all along. Something pushing on the button in the pocket and draining the battery through the pullups.
If you have the problem of the Tube turning on in your pocket the small key-ring supplied with the tube is the solution. It fits perfectly over the button so if if use a bit of insulation tape and fix the key-ring over the button it protects it so its unlikely to to be switched on accidentally. The button works perfectly with your thumb with the tape in place. If you choose a pink tube you might have a problem finding some pink tape to match :)
I've been using one of my new Nitecore TINI flashlights for a couple of weeks and I must say they are very good although I would always have a TUBE on my person somewhere at all times. I also have a UV Nitecore TUBE which I use for curing resins and for making fellow clubbers and bar flies light up unexpectedly (use thumb over LED to make it flash to the rhythm - lots of fun!). As for the TINI it's lovely and can provide the same intensity of the TIP without the second bulge in my pants.
I'd be inclined to drill a small hole between the buttons in the case to make the led more visable, as the waterproofness is questionable anyway due to charge socket and waterproof isn't a necessity to me.
I have the thumb UV and it turns crazy in cold and when shaken. It actually freezes and hangs locked with random led lol. I have to discharge it completely to restart. There is something wacky with the controllers.
+bigclivedotcom When you were running your current draw test while the buttons were locked out @15:58, i dont know whether you noticed but I saw that when you pressed either button while they were locked out, it drew significantly more current. I wonder if whoever complained that their battery was going flat in their pocket while it was locked simply had it in a tight pocket, constantly pressing these buttons? Their battery may have even been fairly low and close to the cut out voltage anyway?
Had one but it eat battery, not shure it's only happen in lockout mode. It would be nice if it was possible to firmware thru the usb. ( the one I have flash one time so it must be version 1)
if the µc has adc, it might have temperature sensing built in. not that it would be worth anything on a board completely separate from the led, but the packaging might not be lying about temperature management.
Personally I use a 1xAAA powered UltraTac K18, it should be good for a similar output to this with 10440 batteries which it is advertised as supporting. They state 20 mins at that sort of brightness though, I am now interested to see if they do a similar thing with ramping down the intensity. Guess I will have to get myself some protected 10440 batteries and test it with the lux meter on my phone at some point.
aljowen I too have the K18 and it was transformed with a 1440 battery on full 360 lumen brightness! It seems remarkable that such a small touch can light up literally 70-80 meters ahead like a football pitch flood light! i picked up 2 quality 1440, 350mAh batteries and an XStar usb charger for £10 delivered. I strongly recommend switching to 1440!!!!!
I've been looking to pick up a Nitecore TIP to replace my Tube. (Tube is good enough to see in the dark half the time...) The Nitecore TIP costs about $60 Canadian (with shipping here), while the Tube costs me $16 with Amazon Prime shipping...
I carry this light almost every day and it goes off in my pocket even when I have it in "Lockout" mode. I usually find out that it's on when it gets hot in my pocket. If it wasn't for this design flaw, it would be a great little light. I never have this problem with any of my bezel twist lights.
for 11:20 (ish) - the TIP has a timed burst mode, so the CPU should know when to step down the power. I think that's the same for temperature prevention. The TIP gets hot - that hot that you can feel it when it accidentally turned on in your pocket - but then a user would pull out and turn off... so if the hardware is capable of that temps - that's the chinese logic of overtemperature protection.
When it's in 'locked' mode - press a button, and see if the current changes, it could be that while in locked mode, if the button is held down it uses more power, and hence draining the battery - it'll stop it coming on for a quick press here and there, but if it's constantly held the battery will drain! as the processor will probably be checking which 'mode' it's in (locked or not) (that's my theory at least :) )
Predictable in pink! 😂👍 I guess it's easier than getting your phone out for seeing in nooks and crannies, do any components other than the LED get warm inside?
Judging from its positioning, my guess is the charging led was meant to make the semi-transparent rubber buttons glow, but somewhere along the line someone decided to make the buttons opaque black thereby ruining that particular design feature.
Pretty sure Nitecore released a V2 which fixed the drain whilst in lockout problem. Also if search for TubeVN, will find someone modding the Tube for higher output. Think it's a simple matter of replacing a resistor.
quick ending of video? HEY can you do a video of all your recommened LED lights you use and maybe the tools you use to test/evaluate them? GREAT STUFF PLEASE KEEP MAKING VIDEOS!
can you look into olight products please. i have been carrying a olight i5t eos for a few months using energizer rechargeable and this has been one of the greatest small flashlights ive ever owned for a multitude of reasons. highly recomend
hey @bigclivedotcom, Is it possible to lock the output function, say at 360 lumens so that every time I switch it ON it stays on 360 lumens? Im planning to house the circuit board in another body which has only 1 switch/mode
Couldn't it be that the locked mode only uses a lot of power if a button is held down while it's locked? Like when it's in your pocket such that a button is depressed for an extended period of time.
Just a note. The Nitecore Tube also has a lock feature mentioned in the online manual. It does work, but a bit harder to use. flashlight.nitecore.com/html/uploads/ueditor/image/product/TUBE/TUBE_UM_EN.pdf Lockout/Unlock With Tube turned on, press and hold the switch for three seconds. Tube will lock out after a flash of the LED to avoid accidental activation during carry. To unlock, press and hold the switch for three seconds again.
Well, I'm pretty sure I have an original (got it not long after release so no clones were available at that point and it has the correct embossed letters and everything) and this doesn't work at all.. Depending on intensity for "on" it either just shuts off or goes into the continuous intensity adjust mode. So I'm guessing this must've been added at a later version of the firmware.
mine already went bang in an accident.. 1.2T on it..... it's tough and the temperature is really regulated by a dedicated chip! as I could see the inserts into only running on max or turbo for a very brief amount of time.... It self regulates
Someone gave me a nitecore tini, I absolutely love it, it’s a REALLY bright flashlight in a tiny package with a rechargeable battery. I liked it so much I thought about buying a second one, but I saw that it was $30 and I didn’t want to pay that, the guy who gave it to me though has a ton of disposable income, his wife makes about $300,000 per year working for Cisco, so he wastes money left and right, he once spent $1000 on a TV remote that didn’t even work with the TV he had.
Yes, you were right. The very first iteration of the TIP had a couple of problems: High quiescent current draw when locked out, and visible PWM on low modes. The current iteration, like the one you dissected here, and the one I own, has solved the vampire current draw on lock-out, and has current regulation not PWM. The battery monitor that you weren't sure of is where you press the mode switch when the light is off and it will flash the LED to tell you the state of cell charge. And the LED flashing when you were testing the current draw was because it was detecting low cell voltage because of the voltage drop due to the burden voltage of the DMM.
Ah, so it may be controlling that mystery 8 pin chip perhaps? I certainly couldn't see PWM at all, but did notice intensity stepping in peripheral vision when the intensity was automatically ramping down.
@@bigclivedotcom I would assume the 8 pin chip is protection on the USB data pins? I believe the firmware on these is hackable/upgradeable?
It's crazy how much nitecore can shove into these extremely small flashlights, and how much functionality they have for their size.
I swear if these things get any fancier someone would port doom to it
I use TIP for 6 years with only both buttons replaced. Those are not even dying.
The one thing I like about your reviews is that you introduce me to new products I didn't realize I needed, and taught me how they work. Bravo!
Clive, if you tap the power level button while the light is off, the LED behind he buttons will flash three times if the charge is around 75% or better, twice if 50% or better, and once if 25%. (I think those are the levels - don't know where my instructions went.)
I have an edition in a metal box with separate instruction booklet, that says 3 flashes is above 50%, 2 flashes between 10% and 50%, 1 flash is below 10% (it will also refuse to enter Turbo mode (360 lm) if it's low on power).
I have a CREE led version and that is what mine is 75% and up is three blinks between 75% and 50% is 2 and around 25% is one but it will not allow turbo at the point and at 15% it takes out the high mode not the turbo mode
I'm so happy you reviewed this light. I've been wearing one around my neck since last December. I have shitty eyes and I often need extra light, even with my glasses so I can see to read small print or see stuff that's in a shadow. I worry about having a Chinese Li-on cell around my neck, but I love this light. The UI is the best I've seen and this light has helped me a lot.
You have such soothing voice, it's so calming and comforting, it's improving our mood and even affect our feelings. i Love such voice. Subscribed 🙂👍
This is truly the best electronics channel on TH-cam- can you take apart a GoPro?
Eevblog did that. #399 and #672 for hero 2 and hero 4 respectively.
I got a Nitecore Tube and it was neat. Now I have to get the Nitecore Tip. Nice to see how it was setup and laid out.
The product description at the Nitecore website indicates a clip that covers the USB port. The IP rating may be with the clip attached.
They make waterproof USB C ports, wonder why they don’t just use one.
Attention test gear manufacturers - Big Clive is a missed opportunity.
Max Phipps - as long as he remains true ! No shill
Max Phipps exactly why manufacturers won't send gear to nutnfancy (tactical gear channel self funded)....they know they'll get called out on shortcomings and it's not a good advertising dollar for them to have a slightly negative or full on negative video out there permanently
Clive, I really enjoy your videos! They're always informative with a great sense of humor! Since you've checked out several keychain lights recently, maybe you could try out some of the big boys. I own a Convoy L6 that runs ~5.25A through a four die LED emitter and is quite bright...since you like bright LED's and well built flashlights I thought it might be up your alley. Anyway, I hope that you keep making these great videos for us to enjoy. Cheers!
Sir, i bought this model when You published this review. I drove a car on top of it when it was like a year old, some time later button died, years later second one died and flashlight is still fine, fully working and lasts a long time on battery. I use it every other day and it is permanently bundled to keys, that i always carry around - properly hard to kill and a great product.
When you locked it out then checked it, the current went up briefly as you pressed the button, not sure if that was a meter glitch or if it was consuming more power.
If ti was the latter and that button was mostly pressed while in the pocket, that may explain the discharge.
temp sensing could be a PN junction on one of the SOT23's
Thanks for the teardown. I have one of each, and find myself using the bigger one more, but that may be because the Mrs. frequently absconds with the smaller one...
They acknowledged the issue with the processor staying active in lock out mode and newer versions do not have that problem. Without the fix the buttons would flash red if you pressed one in lockout mode which is how you can tell which version you have. I think they changed the plugged in with light on behavior at the same time.
Maybe temperature is sensed based on forward voltage of the LED?
Is the large black square of plastic to the right of the circuit board (at 7:24) just a spacer for the battery?
Can't junction temperature be calculated based on voltage/current the LED is drawing? I know regular diode have been used as temperature sensors.
I have this keychain torch. There are 4 power levels, low/medium/high/turbo. The turbo drops to high, after about 30 seconds. The battery used to drain when it was locked out, but I understand they have fixed that now. When it is charging, the LED glows red, and when it is charged, it turns green. The thing you didn't mention is, when it is off, and the buttons are not locked out, if you press the power button once, the red Led flashes, 1,2,or 3 times to show how much power the battery has. I bought mine in 2017, and its still going.
A lot of micros have internal temperature sensing as a part of it's ADCs.
Maybe that is involved? It'll monitor the battery temperature at the very least.
0:45 "... about .8 grams." Wow, that *is* really light! :D
Well, it is a light, so it kinda makes sense...
He read ounces as grams
Yeah well, i havent seen a light that weighs as much as a paperclip does so xD
Well yeah, it's just the tip.
Jesse Crandle
And only for a minute, mind.
They do claim it will adapt to ambient temperature. So the dark grey component next to the "01D" 100k resistor could be an NTC (12:10), mostly measuring inductor temperature. The micro doesn't have one built in.
Although with the turbo cool down you found, it seems like it wouldn't be used much.
Oh no, now I need one more flashlight. Nice buttons btw.
They have one that has an angleable head and a clip that I've been wanting to get for a while
No, don't tell me. I already have too many.
The processor and transistors are pretty close to the battery when it's all in the housing. I wonder what it means for the battery temperature-wise when it's running for some time. Could get pretty hot I think.
Thermal management may be integral to to the led based on temp? It would be interesting to cool it and see if it's just a timed ramp or really thermal.
This video made me go buy one of these. A teardown video rather than a review video funny enough. I guess knowing what is inside makes me feel better about the quality. Quite a good keyring torch though.
One thing you missed when checking the "locked" current drain. What happens if a button is pressed while the light is locked? Does it provide power or ground to some pin of the control chip and thus have a few mA drain as long as a button is pressed?
thanks for the awesome lockout tip, because I've noticed that it can often turn on in my pocket
awesome torch though, I would recommend it
These Cree XP-G2 leds can survive 4-5A in a flashlight with good heat sinking capabilities without any problem.
I have a Nitecore EA11 with a very similar two-button setup, and it really will read out the battery's current voltage to you. The EA11 has two main LED's: the main white one, as well as a dim red one you can use to avoid killing your night vision. When you put a fresh battery in or lock the buttons, the red LED will flash out the voltage. For example, if the voltage is 3.7V, it'll flash three times, pause briefly, and then flash seven more times. Perhaps that's what the TIP packaging means?
The EA11 also has a couple modes for flashing the LED, including a mode where it blinks the red LED periodically so you can find it in the dark. Perhaps that's what the blinking was doing? You engage the flashing by pressing the power button, then pressing and holding the brightness button; you can keep pressing and holding the brightness button to cycle through flashing modes. Alternatively, if the light is on in any mode, you can turn on the periodic red blinking by pressing and holding the power button; you might have done that by accident when the little LED started flashing? It might be intended for the same purpose of finding it in the dark as the flashing red LED in the EA11. (The red LED can be turned on constant by pressing the brightness button, and can be set to flash more frequently from there by pressing and holding the brightness button)
Also, while the light's off, you can immediately put it into high mode by pressing and holding the brightness button, or low mode by pressing and holding the power button.
I don't know if these features are also present in the TIP, but it's worth testing to see if they are, since many of them are quite useful. Especially the turning it on immediately in high or low mode.
im just wondering, whats the current in lockdown with a button pressed ?
Hey Clive, I would recommend also taking a look at the middle child in the family, the Thumb. It's rather good, if you never use it, but it has a major design flaw.
@Clive ....BTW, a "long, boring and blabbering" video about switch mode vs capacitive dropper supplies and detailed explanation of the functionality inside of each n where they're used would be AWESOME...especially filled with "as I say," "I'm not a 100% sure," "I will say," "shkotkey," "basically," ect. ;)
you're the man! I've learned a "metric" shit ton from you n I appreciate the channel. THANKS AGAIN!
A way to do thermal management - could you monitor the LED junction voltage? I mean, it is a P/N junction after all, which will have a temperature coefficient. Maybe briefly drop the current to a low level first?
a 65Z might be a 3V-250mA LDO (exact type is XC6206P302MR), there are different 65% series LDO's (ranging from 1.2 up to 3.1V). The 21GG might be a 21G, a voltage detector (exact type APR3021-39A, again 21% series comes in different voltages) which would make sense to check if the voltage does not exceed a specific voltage.
Source: SMD codes databook 2007 by Turuta
You can always check candlepowerforums and budgetlightforum for almost any flashlight circuit schematic. The modding community is amazingly thorough.
If you think the TIP is advanced tech in a small package wait till you see homemade projects and community + manufacturer collaborations. Cheers :)
clive, if i send you an anker powerbank, will you give your opinion on it? i've always wanted to see what you thought of supposedly the best powerbanks versus the others you've torn down.
SuperAWaC I've torn 3 different ones apart.. the 5 bank, 4 bank and dual bank.. they are very very well built, using medium high grade caps, 5 port had rubycon caps... very clean output on the 5 port, 4 port was ok, dual port was rubbish... I've had the 5 port running for over a year at 8 amps, no issues..
SuperAWaC I would probably send him an email asking where to ship it to, and then just go ahead. His email can be verified at the website linked in the description of this video and is bigclive1@gmail.com
Nick Miller link the vids please, I'd be interested to see 👍
I've taken apart the 20,000 mAh version, nice stuff inside. vid is on my channel, don't mind the blabbing I've learned more since.
JJayzX , nice video buddy, good to see the insides of these, I like mine too much to teardown and I've heard they never go back together quite so well? Keep making the vids 👍
I absolutely love this flashlight so much that I bought two and I carry it in my pocket all the time best flashlight I own
I just got that model in black. It's the best small pocket light I've ever owned!!!
@BigCliveDotCom I'm surprised that you didn't decide to get the TIP CRI, since you are big into lights working well!
For such an in-depth review, run-times at each power setting would be useful. S'pose it'd vary depending on ambient temperature, as the throttling back of the current as the LED warms up would actually increase the run-time particularly in a hot environment
was there a hole in the packaging on the side where the usb was sitting? if so it is possible that there is a new firmware uploaded.
also you can 'see' the bug if your flashlight has it. the led in the power button will light up a bit in lockout mode
I got one of these for myself for Christmas.
They were on sale for a crazy low price, because it was in an ugly red and green Christmas color, and I guess they were having allot of trouble selling them.
Anyway, I have 2 USB ports in the cubby in my car, and one is the perfect distance that when I plug this in, it sits right on the floor of the cubby.
It's a switched USB, so it only charges when the engine is running.
I keep it there, so whenever I need it, it's fully charged and ready to go!
So far this has been an awesome light!
I could see where this light might not be the best for pockets, because of the buttons.
Also, there is absolutely no way this thing is even remotely waterproof...
That being said, it's still an awesome little light!
I wonder, what's your opinion on the "THUMB" model.
I have one in the mail.
the reason I chose it is because it can be a cap light since it has a clip, and the LED head can be rotated. also dual LEDs and a red mode for keeping night vision in tact.
I've not tried that one, but my keychain light is a Nitecore Tube.
Love that PortaPow meter. I have one from them, and the same from a chinese brand.
Used it back in the day when I got started in powerbank testing.
Shame they went to the trouble to seal it but forgot about the USB port.
Just the tip, and only for a minute?
PHRASING!
babbajack!
Keep those comments for the AVE channel!
Could the 'locked out' power drain be caused by a single button kept pressed in the pocket (for example current flowing through a pull up resistor if the input is grounded or vice versa)
In theory with an ADC on the MCU they could have monitored the forward voltage of the LED. Not an ideal method of temperature sensing but it does work as the forward voltage drops with temp on some types.
microcontroller looks like it blew up, is that a hole at the top middle!?
Is it me or did the current jump up when the buttons were locked but you accidently
pressed a single button? Or was it down to a poor connection on the clips?
Most likely the processor waking up from sleep mode to service the button press.
Which could have been the reason for the power drain all along. Something pushing on the button in the pocket and draining the battery through the pullups.
The bigger nitecore lights can report the voltage of the battery by blinking the LED (your patent comment). Perhaps this can do the same?
Great video - as you indicated it does not look like this is waterproof and the strip down more or less confirmed this
If you have the problem of the Tube turning on in your pocket the small key-ring supplied with the tube is the solution. It fits perfectly over the button so if if use a bit of insulation tape and fix the key-ring over the button it protects it so its unlikely to to be switched on accidentally. The button works perfectly with your thumb with the tape in place. If you choose a pink tube you might have a problem finding some pink tape to match :)
I've been using one of my new Nitecore TINI flashlights for a couple of weeks and I must say they are very good although I would always have a TUBE on my person somewhere at all times. I also have a UV Nitecore TUBE which I use for curing resins and for making fellow clubbers and bar flies light up unexpectedly (use thumb over LED to make it flash to the rhythm - lots of fun!).
As for the TINI it's lovely and can provide the same intensity of the TIP without the second bulge in my pants.
That's an insane processor for this device. Mega overkill but fascinating to see
I'd be inclined to drill a small hole between the buttons in the case to make the led more visable, as the waterproofness is questionable anyway due to charge socket and waterproof isn't a necessity to me.
I have the thumb UV and it turns crazy in cold and when shaken. It actually freezes and hangs locked with random led lol. I have to discharge it completely to restart. There is something wacky with the controllers.
+bigclivedotcom When you were running your current draw test while the buttons were locked out @15:58, i dont know whether you noticed but I saw that when you pressed either button while they were locked out, it drew significantly more current. I wonder if whoever complained that their battery was going flat in their pocket while it was locked simply had it in a tight pocket, constantly pressing these buttons? Their battery may have even been fairly low and close to the cut out voltage anyway?
Had one but it eat battery, not shure it's only happen in lockout mode. It would be nice if it was possible to firmware thru the usb. ( the one I have flash one time so it must be version 1)
Why can't we just appreciate what BigClive does and desist with the completely demotic comments ? Thank you, I knew you would understand.
Dear Big, once again you rock! Great video, thanks. pierre from New Mexico
if the µc has adc, it might have temperature sensing built in. not that it would be worth anything on a board completely separate from the led, but the packaging might not be lying about temperature management.
Personally I use a 1xAAA powered UltraTac K18, it should be good for a similar output to this with 10440 batteries which it is advertised as supporting. They state 20 mins at that sort of brightness though, I am now interested to see if they do a similar thing with ramping down the intensity. Guess I will have to get myself some protected 10440 batteries and test it with the lux meter on my phone at some point.
aljowen I too have the K18 and it was transformed with a 1440 battery on full 360 lumen brightness! It seems remarkable that such a small touch can light up literally 70-80 meters ahead like a football pitch flood light! i picked up 2 quality 1440, 350mAh batteries and an XStar usb charger for £10 delivered. I strongly recommend switching to 1440!!!!!
I've been looking to pick up a Nitecore TIP to replace my Tube. (Tube is good enough to see in the dark half the time...)
The Nitecore TIP costs about $60 Canadian (with shipping here), while the Tube costs me $16 with Amazon Prime shipping...
They did fix the lockout bug. Maybe someone has one of the first versions and wants to send it to you.
I carry this light almost every day and it goes off in my pocket even when I have it in "Lockout" mode. I usually find out that it's on when it gets hot in my pocket. If it wasn't for this design flaw, it would be a great little light. I never have this problem with any of my bezel twist lights.
you can use current measurement to measure the temperature
That's a ridiculously powerful chip for a torch. Can we run Doom on if?
for 11:20 (ish) - the TIP has a timed burst mode, so the CPU should know when to step down the power. I think that's the same for temperature prevention. The TIP gets hot - that hot that you can feel it when it accidentally turned on in your pocket - but then a user would pull out and turn off... so if the hardware is capable of that temps - that's the chinese logic of overtemperature protection.
Is that 20 pin IC damaged around pin 15? looks like it's chipped
When it's in 'locked' mode - press a button, and see if the current changes, it could be that while in locked mode, if the button is held down it uses more power, and hence draining the battery - it'll stop it coming on for a quick press here and there, but if it's constantly held the battery will drain! as the processor will probably be checking which 'mode' it's in (locked or not) (that's my theory at least :) )
Can you do some shots with your Thermal camera?
The TIP CRI is what I'd buy in preference to this. Same design, slightly less output, much better light quality (doesn't wash out colors).
One year has passed now... I have a new version with a pocket clip but the lockout mode is disabled :(
Predictable in pink!
😂👍
I guess it's easier than getting your phone out for seeing in nooks and crannies, do any components other than the LED get warm inside?
They really seem to put a lot of thought into these. Too expensive for my taste unfortunately but I have been meaning to get a Tube.
Looks like I'm going to buy one of these look quite a useful bit of kit.
the IC looks like it has a hole blown in it, odd.
TheDefpom I noticed that too lol
Judging from its positioning, my guess is the charging led was meant to make the semi-transparent rubber buttons glow, but somewhere along the line someone decided to make the buttons opaque black thereby ruining that particular design feature.
Pretty sure Nitecore released a V2 which fixed the drain whilst in lockout problem.
Also if search for TubeVN, will find someone modding the Tube for higher output. Think it's a simple matter of replacing a resistor.
If you replaced the sense resistor or bridged another one across it then it would allow operation at higher current.
Ive got to take mine apart, when turned on its intermittant, It cuts out when I press on the chasis. Any ideas?
Sounds like a bad solder connection or something being shorted out.
quick ending of video? HEY can you do a video of all your recommened LED lights you use and maybe the tools you use to test/evaluate them? GREAT STUFF PLEASE KEEP MAKING VIDEOS!
can you look into olight products please. i have been carrying a olight i5t eos for a few months using energizer rechargeable and this has been one of the greatest small flashlights ive ever owned for a multitude of reasons. highly recomend
Do you save all of these pictures and printouts?
I have the first version. The battery dies after 3 days when locked out. On the other hand, it lasts at least a couple of months when not locked out.
That would tie in with an indicator LED being left on.
To be honest, I haven't noticed that. I'll check that out tonight.
Hi, very good review. Is there a way of replacing the battery once it is past its useful life?
If you could find one of similar size it's viable. But after 1000 charges you might be looking for the latest version anyway.
hey @bigclivedotcom, Is it possible to lock the output function, say at 360 lumens so that every time I switch it ON it stays on 360 lumens? Im planning to house the circuit board in another body which has only 1 switch/mode
I also make videos with LEDs. I just love leds and your channel too😊
Couldn't it be that the locked mode only uses a lot of power if a button is held down while it's locked? Like when it's in your pocket such that a button is depressed for an extended period of time.
The current draw seemed to jump when you were pressing the buttons. that may be how people are killing it while it's locked
I was wondering which one to buy, should I buy the tube or tip?
It depends on your application. I like the Tube because it is much smaller, but still puts out a lot of light.
Just a note. The Nitecore Tube also has a lock feature mentioned in the online manual. It does work, but a bit harder to use.
flashlight.nitecore.com/html/uploads/ueditor/image/product/TUBE/TUBE_UM_EN.pdf
Lockout/Unlock
With Tube turned on, press and hold the switch for three seconds. Tube will lock out after a flash of the LED to avoid accidental activation during carry. To unlock, press and hold the switch for three seconds again.
Well, I'm pretty sure I have an original (got it not long after release so no clones were available at that point and it has the correct embossed letters and everything) and this doesn't work at all.. Depending on intensity for "on" it either just shuts off or goes into the continuous intensity adjust mode. So I'm guessing this must've been added at a later version of the firmware.
mine already went bang in an accident.. 1.2T on it..... it's tough
and the temperature is really regulated by a dedicated chip! as I could see the inserts into only running on max or turbo for a very brief amount of time.... It self regulates
That's an 8051, so could you write your own firmware to add features like the emergency light that the Tube has? Or is that an OTP chip?
could you review the nitecore thumb ? that is ment to be a beast
Why don't all flashlights have capacity meters?
Nitecore makes amazing 18650 battery chargers love the nitecore D4 Chargers
Someone gave me a nitecore tini, I absolutely love it, it’s a REALLY bright flashlight in a tiny package with a rechargeable battery. I liked it so much I thought about buying a second one, but I saw that it was $30 and I didn’t want to pay that, the guy who gave it to me though has a ton of disposable income, his wife makes about $300,000 per year working for Cisco, so he wastes money left and right, he once spent $1000 on a TV remote that didn’t even work with the TV he had.