Great video. One thing I would recommend for any DIYers out there, is if you have a neck pickup, tape over it before filing any frets - the little metal filings will stick to the magnets in the pickup.
If you're sanding something which is non-absorbent (metal, bone, plastic, resin etc), then use wet and dry paper with a lubricant like soapy water, or glass cleaner, and sand in figure of 8's - it will minimise uneven sanding so you dont take off more from any spot, stop the paper clogging up, give more consistent finish, and make your paper last much much longer. it prevents you going thinner at one end of the nut, or having the bottom of the nut thicker than the top.
Hey man, just got back into guitar as a hobby, modding out one of my old, neglected guitars and this video took something that seemed intimidating to do and only for professionals, into something that I can apply to all my old guitars to make them great again for a fraction of the price of taking them to a shop. You're right on the nose with needing to be fine with putting the work in, but it's so rewarding in the end!
The easiest way to get the slots down to the correct level is to use a stack of feeler gauges in front of the nut, the same height as the first fret plus a few thou. File the slot until the file hits the feeler gauges (which you hear immediately) , job done. also you can hold the feeler gauges on with rubberband around neck
This whole video is great ... BUT at minute 31 there is a small error in explaining how to adjust intonation. Moving the saddle towards the neck does actually not loosen the string, but shorten the string length, therefore pitch between bridge and the 12th fret goes UP after tuning the open string, not down. Pls correct me if I am wrong, but AFAIK this is how it physically works. Maybe it is just me misunderstanding?
You can also eliminate the buz, by making sure that you strings are wound going downwards on the tuner posts. There is NO required action hight. I always set mine or setups according to my preference or the players preference. I’d also like to add, that tuning Intonation with an electronic tuner is “ Tuning by sight”. If you have good ears, always set intonation by ear. Electronic Tuners can pick up harmonics and throw off the tuners readings.
"I don't think professionals are going to see this video". Well well. Here I am, watching your video. And I'm happy to say that I also use the fret crowning tools from Thomann. There's nothing wrong with that. I use a black sharpie, thjough, but that's just because my eyes have gone a bit wonky since getting old. But you did a fine job on the frets.
Some suggestions from others instructing on setups: Use metal polish (Semichrome is recommended by Jerry Rosa, luthier, but costs USD$10+...however it also polished the rest of the finish). With steel wool, even if the pickups are covered, steel fibers will invariably become attracted to them. For fret ends, a foam sanding block is often enough, eliminating the need to actually file them. Note that for from under USD$15 to 35 Temu has multiple offerings of tuneup & repair kits with everything you suggest & more...and a steel "fret ruler" of about six dollars.
Wonderful video essay! It IS a complex process, but many simple elements combine to make a system that is in 'perfect harmony'. Learning the process yourself is totally worthwhile. It's all about how much time and work you're willing to spend, but the fine details really can take an o.k. feeling guitar ahead by miles and really let you get the most enjoyment out of it. This 'Fine-tuning' beyond just turning tuners has made meh guitars that I've had for years perform better than ever as videos like yours have given an invaluable education in the craftsmanship that was unavailable for decades, besides insufficient books(Sorry Mr.D.Erlewine) or just kept as luthier 'trade secrets'.
Thank you bud and yeah you're 100% right it's a matter of effort and reward for that effort but for sure it's not something we should attribute to only luthiers being able to do. Of course this is a base line but we start somewhere!
thanks for sharing the links to the tools and thanks for the video. id wrap gaffers tape around the handle of the file that is uncomfortable to hold, until it has more comfor.
Cool video. Thanks for sharing your technique. I've learned how to work on my own guitars and help some friends out from watching TH-cam videos for the past 10 years or so. It's always good to see different ways of doing things and find out what works best for yourself.
Thanks bud and exactly! Many ways to skin a cat or whatever that saying is... I'm the same I started out learning from Crimson, Big D, Guns n Guitars etc etc before I started practicing on my own!
Good suggestions. Just a couple more from my experience, in addition to my prior comments. First of all, I think it is important to measure string height, at least as a starting point, because it is unlikely that you can pick up a difference of one or two hundredth of an inch by eye...just as most people can't detect slight neck bows by sighting down the fingerboard &, thus, should use a ruler. On the other hand, this measurement and suggested string heights are just starting points, and not something to rigorously maintain...as different string gauges & tensions or playing style might demand "non-standard" string heights for most comfortable playing. Similarly, while most people recognize what could be considered "standard" staggering of bridge saddles, ultimately the ear & tuner determines their position...because, with some string gauges & tensions the pattern of saddles positions could be entirely different than expected. Finally, while the sanding block (and frets files, if necessary) work well to fine tune the length & angle of fret ends, a cheap foam sanding block (as I noted previously) works well to fine tune removal of sharp fret end edges. And, ordinary disposable fingernail files can be used to file & shape fret ends, though not best for crowning. While these wear out fairly quickly, they are also "dirt" cheap.
Brilliant Brilliant Brilliant This is literally the only video anyone would would need Informative Clear In-depth Simple to follow Not only has this given me the knowledge and confidence to do this work but also the tools this guy demonstrated in this video has given me the confidence to purchase said tools I have often overlooked cheap fret rockers and neck rulers files though this has shown me these examples of tools are very adequate What a guy Thank you very much this video will be In my library forever more can’t thank you enough for sharing your skill set And what a god damm guitar she’s perfect Can’t wait for next video I think you should also know I literally made my whole family watch that on the big telly while we had our tea We all think your ace Kindest regards Dave
Wow Dave, you've no idea how much it means that you took the time to write all that! Thank you for the kind words, I'm glad it's helped - I felt like I overcomplicated and explained it poorly to be honest so this is great to read. Say hi to the family for me! Take care bud, Owen.
I have a few questions about that neck that i hope u can answer 1. How is it holding up after a few month of playing? 2. Does your hand get stick to the gloss finish while playing? Thanks a lot, love your videos!!
Really helpful video, thanks very much. I’d never seen the neck ruler before, every other source I’ve seen say to use the capo on the 1st fret technique, but for a few quid that seems a much more precise way of measuring the relief.
I don't measure string height too, I just adjust it to the point where my fingers feel best. I'm probably wrong too but so far haven't had any issues with my guitars.
Nice video and it presents better than you thought it would to other people. 😊As a bonus no neck pickups were mindlessly destroyed in this one. (Maybe one day those discarded pickups will find a home for someone) 😉
Great video, similar to my own technique, ad works for me. One observation is that the high E seems very close to the fretboard edge, with possible pull off problems. May want to loosen the neck screws a little then move the neck joint into alignment then retighten??
Excellent tips for guitar setup. Are the tools on aliexpress good for beginners learning to do setups? Was thinking how do they compare to stewmac tools as i been hearing some of the cheaper notched straight edges may have straightness issues and will you recommend them? Thanks for the good work
Yeah I got a few comments asking about the straight edge not being straight but this one is perfect, or as perfect as I'll ever need at least. The tools in my opinion are good enough for beginners if you're only doing the odd guitar, if you're doing lots of guitars I'd go for the better stuff and StewMac is some of the best available!
Very good question, I should have mentioned that! I personally like to start around the 600 grit mark and move up or down if required - depends on how much material I feel that I need to remove, but 600 - 800 usually works for me. I don't think I've ever went lower than 400!
Couple of questions. Would it not be prudent to tap in the high frets before leveling (just in case they are high because they are popping out a bit). And when using the fret rocker, I get how it tells you the frets are not level, but I'm not sure how to tell the difference between a low fret and a high fret. I guess a high fret only causes rocking when it is in the middle of a fret rocker, but a low fret could cause rocking on either side. No?
You could do yeah but generally if the frets aren't seated correctly you'll see that along the sides of the fretboard. Your thoughts on the high/low frets are pretty much spot on but it doesn't matter too much, some people like to identify each one but since I'm levelling them all anyway it should matter too much! Just keep marking between sanding and it'll become obvious which are high if you're using a nice level beam.
That's a difficult question but if you're careful and don't go mad then it's unlikely. Do any truss rod turns 1/4 turn at a time then check and double check. When sanding your frets continually check and remark them with a Sharpie to be sure you're sanding evenly. Same when crowning. Worth a try but if you're worried maybe try pick up an old banger of a guitar for practice?
@@Giant_Guitars thank you, btw, great channel, I love your taste in guitars and it is trully a pleasure watching you work on them. I hope someday I will also own a tom style strat 🤘🏻
You would have saved yourself a ton of time and tape by only using two pieces of tape and doing one fret at a time, moving the same pieces up the neck as you move on to the next 👍🏻
Why not play the guitar at the end? I would have been much more convinced of the techniques used had you played a chromatic scale up and down all six strings. It's kind of a let down when we don't get to hear the results after spending 35 minutes watching.
It doesn't mattet that it is a cheap instrument. Firstly, there is practice on guitar maintenance that can be applied to an expensive instrument. Secondly, this effort makes a cheap instrument play like a more expensive one.
Yeah I was just trying to convey that it's an effort and reward scenario, when I was talking about it being cheap I mostly meant the effort for polishing the frets - all the other stuff is totally necessary
@@Giant_Guitars I suppose I am agreeing with you and saying my message to the public to understand why what you did is worthwhile. Your mini toggle, is that a coil cut?
@@kentl7228 yeah thank you bud 😊🙏 and yep it's a coil split - this was a pre-wired pickguard I got for £20 odd that had 2 humbuckers and two coil splits, as a bit of a joke at the end of that video I cut the neck pickup out and made it single hum
@@Giant_Guitars I made a Frankenstein guitar to find out what tonal wiring options are good and what aren't. I now wire guitars that follow my little rules... That they look stock but have better and more options than a shop bought guitar. They have the normal tone selections in the standard places. They are comfortable and simple to use. That any specific tonal option is only found in one position and not replicated anywhere else. I like out of phase sounds but only in series and not within a humbucker, keep it to a bridge and middle, middle and neck or bridge and neck. With a single humbucker guitar, you could use an on-on-on mini toggle and have switching from series humbucker to coil cut to parallel humbucker. Put a push pull tone pot with two different capacitors to chose from. The volume pot can be a push pull so you can bypass all circuits and go direct to the output jack. A kill switch button would be cool as well. I hope I am not telling you how to suck eggs, so to speak. ))
@@kentl7228 love these ideas mate, I have experimented quite a lot with single humbucker guitars and extra options including a volume push pull that is a tone pot when you pull so it looks just like a single hum single pot guitar but has some extras. Also some 3 way switches with options similar to your suggestions! That being said I find myself preferring just humbucker and volume, keeping it simple and clean haha.
Good video but dude...while I accept all regional accents some extremes are totally annoying when they make English words unrecognizable...like your pronunciation of Pound & Round as P-eye-nd and R-eye-nd. That becomes even more noticeable when the rest of your speech is totally intelligible.
Great video. One thing I would recommend for any DIYers out there, is if you have a neck pickup, tape over it before filing any frets - the little metal filings will stick to the magnets in the pickup.
Yes haha that's very annoying 🤣 thankfully I rarely have that issue any more lol
As someone currently setting up a Stratocaster, this video is unbelievably useful! Thanks for more great content!
Thank you mate, I'm happy to hear it - makes it all worthwhile 🙂
If you're sanding something which is non-absorbent (metal, bone, plastic, resin etc), then use wet and dry paper with a lubricant like soapy water, or glass cleaner, and sand in figure of 8's - it will minimise uneven sanding so you dont take off more from any spot, stop the paper clogging up, give more consistent finish, and make your paper last much much longer. it prevents you going thinner at one end of the nut, or having the bottom of the nut thicker than the top.
Hey man, just got back into guitar as a hobby, modding out one of my old, neglected guitars and this video took something that seemed intimidating to do and only for professionals, into something that I can apply to all my old guitars to make them great again for a fraction of the price of taking them to a shop. You're right on the nose with needing to be fine with putting the work in, but it's so rewarding in the end!
The easiest way to get the slots down to the correct level is to use a stack of feeler gauges in front of the nut, the same height as the first fret plus a few thou.
File the slot until the file hits the feeler gauges (which you hear immediately) , job done. also you can hold the feeler gauges on with rubberband around neck
This whole video is great ... BUT at minute 31 there is a small error in explaining how to adjust intonation. Moving the saddle towards the neck does actually not loosen the string, but shorten the string length, therefore pitch between bridge and the 12th fret goes UP after tuning the open string, not down. Pls correct me if I am wrong, but AFAIK this is how it physically works. Maybe it is just me misunderstanding?
You can also eliminate the buz, by making sure that you strings are wound going downwards on the tuner posts.
There is NO required action hight.
I always set mine or setups according to my preference or the players preference.
I’d also like to add, that tuning Intonation with an electronic tuner is “ Tuning by sight”. If you have good ears, always set intonation by ear.
Electronic Tuners can pick up harmonics and throw off the tuners readings.
For sure if you can tune by ear that's the way to go!! Thanks bud
I was thinking the same thing. And a few more raps wouldn't hurt either. Not nearly enough turns on there, no way it will hold tune.
"I don't think professionals are going to see this video". Well well. Here I am, watching your video. And I'm happy to say that I also use the fret crowning tools from Thomann. There's nothing wrong with that. I use a black sharpie, thjough, but that's just because my eyes have gone a bit wonky since getting old. But you did a fine job on the frets.
You've made my night, thank you for taking the time to comment mate I appreciate it
Some suggestions from others instructing on setups: Use metal polish (Semichrome is recommended by Jerry Rosa, luthier, but costs USD$10+...however it also polished the rest of the finish). With steel wool, even if the pickups are covered, steel fibers will invariably become attracted to them. For fret ends, a foam sanding block is often enough, eliminating the need to actually file them.
Note that for from under USD$15 to 35 Temu has multiple offerings of tuneup & repair kits with everything you suggest & more...and a steel "fret ruler" of about six dollars.
The finesse and craftsmanship is way too good for anything to me to be able to give a crack ❤
You definitely can do it!
@@Giant_Guitars I’ll leave that yellow relic strat project in your capable hands 🙏🏻😁
Wonderful video essay! It IS a complex process, but many simple elements combine to make a system that is in 'perfect harmony'. Learning the process yourself is totally worthwhile. It's all about how much time and work you're willing to spend, but the fine details really can take an o.k. feeling guitar ahead by miles and really let you get the most enjoyment out of it. This 'Fine-tuning' beyond just turning tuners has made meh guitars that I've had for years perform better than ever as videos like yours have given an invaluable education in the craftsmanship that was unavailable for decades, besides insufficient books(Sorry Mr.D.Erlewine) or just kept as luthier 'trade secrets'.
Thank you bud and yeah you're 100% right it's a matter of effort and reward for that effort but for sure it's not something we should attribute to only luthiers being able to do. Of course this is a base line but we start somewhere!
Excellent work here. Absolutely beautiful partscaster. ❤
thanks for sharing the links to the tools and thanks for the video. id wrap gaffers tape around the handle of the file that is uncomfortable to hold, until it has more comfor.
Not a problem dude and thanks good tip 👍
hugely informative and encouraging. I'm hoping to start doing partscasters in the future and this has been one of my biggest fears.
Thanks bud and best of luck to you. Just get stuck in and learn by doing.
Cool video. Thanks for sharing your technique. I've learned how to work on my own guitars and help some friends out from watching TH-cam videos for the past 10 years or so. It's always good to see different ways of doing things and find out what works best for yourself.
Thanks bud and exactly! Many ways to skin a cat or whatever that saying is... I'm the same I started out learning from Crimson, Big D, Guns n Guitars etc etc before I started practicing on my own!
Good suggestions. Just a couple more from my experience, in addition to my prior comments.
First of all, I think it is important to measure string height, at least as a starting point, because it is unlikely that you can pick up a difference of one or two hundredth of an inch by eye...just as most people can't detect slight neck bows by sighting down the fingerboard &, thus, should use a ruler. On the other hand, this measurement and suggested string heights are just starting points, and not something to rigorously maintain...as different string gauges & tensions or playing style might demand "non-standard" string heights for most comfortable playing.
Similarly, while most people recognize what could be considered "standard" staggering of bridge saddles, ultimately the ear & tuner determines their position...because, with some string gauges & tensions the pattern of saddles positions could be entirely different than expected.
Finally, while the sanding block (and frets files, if necessary) work well to fine tune the length & angle of fret ends, a cheap foam sanding block (as I noted previously) works well to fine tune removal of sharp fret end edges. And, ordinary disposable fingernail files can be used to file & shape fret ends, though not best for crowning. While these wear out fairly quickly, they are also "dirt" cheap.
Thanks bud I appreciate all this extra info 👌
Brilliant Brilliant Brilliant
This is literally the only video anyone would would need
Informative
Clear
In-depth
Simple to follow
Not only has this given me the knowledge and confidence to do this work but also the tools this guy demonstrated in this video has given me the confidence to purchase said tools
I have often overlooked cheap fret rockers and neck rulers files though this has shown me these examples of tools are very adequate
What a guy
Thank you very much this video will be In my library forever more can’t thank you enough for sharing your skill set
And what a god damm guitar she’s perfect
Can’t wait for next video
I think you should also know I literally made my whole family watch that on the big telly while we had our tea
We all think your ace
Kindest regards
Dave
Wow Dave, you've no idea how much it means that you took the time to write all that! Thank you for the kind words, I'm glad it's helped - I felt like I overcomplicated and explained it poorly to be honest so this is great to read.
Say hi to the family for me!
Take care bud,
Owen.
Thanks for providing the most helpful DIY guitar builder videos on TH-cam 👍🎸
Cheers bud I appreciate that
I have a few questions about that neck that i hope u can answer
1. How is it holding up after a few month of playing?
2. Does your hand get stick to the gloss finish while playing?
Thanks a lot, love your videos!!
I love the look of that guitar
Thanks bud it's a great little guitar
Really helpful video, thanks very much. I’d never seen the neck ruler before, every other source I’ve seen say to use the capo on the 1st fret technique, but for a few quid that seems a much more precise way of measuring the relief.
Yeah I always prefer the ruler for sure! If you have a straight piece of anything really you can make one up by adding the notches. And thanks bud 🙏
I don't measure string height too, I just adjust it to the point where my fingers feel best.
I'm probably wrong too but so far haven't had any issues with my guitars.
Exactly Johnny! That's the way in my opinion
Could you have used the radius sanding block you used to hold your neck in place to do the fret level? Assuming it’s the right radius for that neck….
It's possible yeah but you need to match the radius of the fretboad, that's just a neck rest though so doesn't match the fretboard
Thanks for doing these videos. I know I will eventually have to work on one of mine and resources like this is a great help.
You're welcome and thanks for being here 🙏
Love your channel!!
Thank you bud 🙏 appreciate it
Nice video and it presents better than you thought it would to other people. 😊As a bonus no neck pickups were mindlessly destroyed in this one. (Maybe one day those discarded pickups will find a home for someone) 😉
@@YoureNowOnTV thank you mate I appreciate this 🙏 and haha don't worry I've plenty more videos planned to destroy some neck pickups in
@@Giant_Guitars Oh no, say it aint so ! 🫣 (About the pickups) Great to hear there might be another video in the future though ☺👍
Great video, similar to my own technique, ad works for me. One observation is that the high E seems very close to the fretboard edge, with possible pull off problems. May want to loosen the neck screws a little then move the neck joint into alignment then retighten??
Thanks man, i was wondering if those cheaper files were worth getting!
I think so! Sure better than the keyring style ones out there for cheap
Very nice!
I pretty much wing the string height also. Let's hope this guitar lands in Mexico also, fingers crossed. Cheers.
It's the best way, in my opinion haha 😅 and well good luck for when the comp starts
@@Giant_Guitars thanks bro, in the meantime I'll be gathering tools to fully upgrade my 2004 squier strat. Cheers.
Very nice
Love the videos! Keep them coming! any chance you can do a shootout with these “chinvaders” and the ridgy-didge invader on the TD strat?
Thanks bud and that sounds like a great video idea 💡
what a great guitar, I'm very curious about the sound it will produce.... Greetings from Indonesia.
Greetings! I actually have a bit of a demo on the build video for this if you want to hear it
@@Giant_Guitars Of course I want to hear it, thank you
now i can make guitar thanks giant guitar!
Thanks woodsman, as always!
Excellent tips for guitar setup. Are the tools on aliexpress good for beginners learning to do setups? Was thinking how do they compare to stewmac tools as i been hearing some of the cheaper notched straight edges may have straightness issues and will you recommend them? Thanks for the good work
Yeah I got a few comments asking about the straight edge not being straight but this one is perfect, or as perfect as I'll ever need at least. The tools in my opinion are good enough for beginners if you're only doing the odd guitar, if you're doing lots of guitars I'd go for the better stuff and StewMac is some of the best available!
Welcome back matey,hope you enjoyed your break.Great vid,l always wanted to level a neck,but filing frets gets me super nervous 😖
Thanks bud and yeah I did. You should practice on an old one if you can! Definitely worth a try
@@Giant_Guitars Have to give a crack one day👍
I love your videos , keep going with it!!!
Cheers bud 🙏
Mannn thank you for this video! So informative, until now I’ve been too anxious to mess with any of my guitars 🤣 thank you!
You're very welcome, thank you for being here 😊
Great stuff! What grade paper do you use to level the frets?
Very good question, I should have mentioned that! I personally like to start around the 600 grit mark and move up or down if required - depends on how much material I feel that I need to remove, but 600 - 800 usually works for me. I don't think I've ever went lower than 400!
Really excellent tutorial, subbed.
Basin street blue
love the content. how's your trip to crotia the other day?
Thanks mate, loved it! Croatia was the best spot we went to, I have a video coming out of the trip and some guitar shops we visited!
Very helpful vid always! Punk rock!🤘🤘🤘🤘
Thank you mate
Great video, dude. Colour me subscribed! 👍👍
Cheers bud
Great info on the fret dress. Do you not then readjust the truss rod afterwards to give some relief when the strings are back on?
Yeah I do, once the strings are on I go back to the truss rod and adjust it as needed. I also check it after a couple of days of tension to be sure!
@@Giant_Guitars Awesome video dude. I really enjoyed it.
How accurate is that notched ruler? Because i bought one and its not straight
Oh that's not good! This one is straight, or at least as straight as I can tell 😂
That´s the same accent as that biker/rave guy in Spaced! Hehe where are you from bruh? Northern Ireland?
Haha yes Northern Ireland 😅
@@Giant_Guitars Tyres the bike messenger is what he´s called! hehe
th-cam.com/video/qQ9w1Q-4eBw/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
Couple of questions. Would it not be prudent to tap in the high frets before leveling (just in case they are high because they are popping out a bit). And when using the fret rocker, I get how it tells you the frets are not level, but I'm not sure how to tell the difference between a low fret and a high fret. I guess a high fret only causes rocking when it is in the middle of a fret rocker, but a low fret could cause rocking on either side. No?
You could do yeah but generally if the frets aren't seated correctly you'll see that along the sides of the fretboard. Your thoughts on the high/low frets are pretty much spot on but it doesn't matter too much, some people like to identify each one but since I'm levelling them all anyway it should matter too much! Just keep marking between sanding and it'll become obvious which are high if you're using a nice level beam.
How likely am I to mess up my neck if I've never done any fretwork before?
That's a difficult question but if you're careful and don't go mad then it's unlikely. Do any truss rod turns 1/4 turn at a time then check and double check. When sanding your frets continually check and remark them with a Sharpie to be sure you're sanding evenly. Same when crowning. Worth a try but if you're worried maybe try pick up an old banger of a guitar for practice?
@Giant_Guitars can you please tell me, what that toggle does?
It's wired for a coil split to give single coil tone
@@Giant_Guitars thank you, I did not know the invader was splitable
@@alexpintea no problems. This is a fake invader but the real Seymour Duncans are indeed splittable 👌
@@Giant_Guitars thank you, btw, great channel, I love your taste in guitars and it is trully a pleasure watching you work on them. I hope someday I will also own a tom style strat 🤘🏻
Great vid 👍🔥🎸
Thank you mate
the real crime here is watching the whole thing and him not playing it at the end :c
Fair lol
How do I set up a GIANT guitar though , those tools are normal size
That's for the next video 🤣
You would have saved yourself a ton of time and tape by only using two pieces of tape and doing one fret at a time, moving the same pieces up the neck as you move on to the next 👍🏻
You're probably right mate
Why not play the guitar at the end? I would have been much more convinced of the techniques used had you played a chromatic scale up and down all six strings. It's kind of a let down when we don't get to hear the results after spending 35 minutes watching.
It doesn't mattet that it is a cheap instrument. Firstly, there is practice on guitar maintenance that can be applied to an expensive instrument. Secondly, this effort makes a cheap instrument play like a more expensive one.
Yeah I was just trying to convey that it's an effort and reward scenario, when I was talking about it being cheap I mostly meant the effort for polishing the frets - all the other stuff is totally necessary
@@Giant_Guitars I suppose I am agreeing with you and saying my message to the public to understand why what you did is worthwhile. Your mini toggle, is that a coil cut?
@@kentl7228 yeah thank you bud 😊🙏 and yep it's a coil split - this was a pre-wired pickguard I got for £20 odd that had 2 humbuckers and two coil splits, as a bit of a joke at the end of that video I cut the neck pickup out and made it single hum
@@Giant_Guitars I made a Frankenstein guitar to find out what tonal wiring options are good and what aren't.
I now wire guitars that follow my little rules...
That they look stock but have better and more options than a shop bought guitar.
They have the normal tone selections in the standard places.
They are comfortable and simple to use.
That any specific tonal option is only found in one position and not replicated anywhere else.
I like out of phase sounds but only in series and not within a humbucker, keep it to a bridge and middle, middle and neck or bridge and neck.
With a single humbucker guitar, you could use an on-on-on mini toggle and have switching from series humbucker to coil cut to parallel humbucker. Put a push pull tone pot with two different capacitors to chose from. The volume pot can be a push pull so you can bypass all circuits and go direct to the output jack. A kill switch button would be cool as well.
I hope I am not telling you how to suck eggs, so to speak. ))
@@kentl7228 love these ideas mate, I have experimented quite a lot with single humbucker guitars and extra options including a volume push pull that is a tone pot when you pull so it looks just like a single hum single pot guitar but has some extras. Also some 3 way switches with options similar to your suggestions!
That being said I find myself preferring just humbucker and volume, keeping it simple and clean haha.
sonic blue
First baby
Welcome 😁
Good video but dude...while I accept all regional accents some extremes are totally annoying when they make English words unrecognizable...like your pronunciation of Pound & Round as P-eye-nd and R-eye-nd. That becomes even more noticeable when the rest of your speech is totally intelligible.
Lol