OMG! I have images in 8 bits with horrible banding that I've kept for years just because I love them anyway, but of course I couldn't sell them or show them to anyone, just had to keep them private for my own enjoyment. Now with this information, I should be able to go back and rescue them and share them with the world. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
It's really cool creating an HDR image by combining several exposures and working with it as a 32-bit image. The freedom to manipulate the brightness is insane.
Excellent explanation, I was always working in 16 bit in Prophoto color space and then saving as Jpeg or for the web but found I had to make color adjustments again as the color saturation was lost in both methods of saving. I have not used the export command at all, did use flatten but did not save the 16-bit copy yet another blunder. This double work has had me thinking where do I find the right way. Thank you, that tutorial was perfect. I am not a pro but take pride in my work. I have been in photography and was an expert in film. Digital still gives me a few hiccups. Guess this will take one of those big ones away. Thank you Unmesh, its always so clearly explained by you. Thank you.
Thanks for this tutorial. Ive spent many hours cursing and trying to fix this exact issue. The funny thing is it normally only happens when I have a BLACK background. Your solution is alot quicker and easier than my work around. Lol.
I know this is an older video but I was under the impression (and taught) to work with the highest level of detail (so in this case it would be 16-bit if we're talking about bit depth) and take your "losses" as you go (ie. when exporting or performing tasks that can only be done in 8-bit). Same for color spaces (although with color spaces, particularly with Adobe RGB and say ProPhoto RGB) the changes may be more minimal, but when you go to say an even smaller color space such as sRGB, you may see some color shifts and blends /merging due to the smaller color space.
Very nice, already used this technique since 90's on editing videos/3d animations, and we call these artifacts as "color banding". Until now I have seen many edited photos/videos getting this problem. Thank you for this Unmesh.
Awesome, i was just watching some of your older videos on banding. I'm working on a very purple-pink-orange-ish image of palm trees and a sunset. Lots of curves/color manipulation though, so this will surely come handy. Unmesh you're a pro. A master!
I was intending to find that out myself. Guess getting the right answer would be nice. I found there was the color loss in save as command to 8 bit .jpg or .png
You are much better off using 16 bit for printing. Especially on certain tones such as graduations of colour on a sunset for example. On a 8bit you are far more likely to result in banding.
Awesome reason to use 16 bit. I can now hopefully get rid of my banding issues when lifting up dark shadows from D750 when lightening too much it shows banding. This should work with 16 bit. Thanks..
If you work entirely in 8bit then you can still use all the filters and benefit from the smaller file sizes. You only need to duplicate the document, convert to 16 bit, flatten it then convert back to 8bit at the very end to get all the advantages of the 16 bit workflow without the huge working file sizes.
This is completely unrelated to this video's topic, but since this is his latest video I figured there would be more people to help me here. I've been working on a timelapse of a building facade and I am using the perspective warp to adjust the image the way I want, but there are a lot o photos to be adjusted and I don't want to make any mistakes that will ruin my video. Is there a way to save the perspective warp adjustments I used in a previous picture and apply it to all the others? I've been looking for a tutorial about it all over TH-cam but I cannot find it, I just find some basic tutorials about perspective warp.
Unmesh, your videos are so clear and informative - they always help me learn! I have a question with this, I hope you can answer as you are the Photoshop Guru... As an alternative to saving a 16-bit copy and proceeding to merge all layers down for 8-bit etc... could highlight everything and make it a smart object, then switch back to 8-bit. This keeps the smart object file at 16-bit with all adjustments in place, and the original file is now back to 8-bit. It makes sense in my mind, but not sure if there's a reason this wouldn't work. Thanks!
Hi Unmesh.What channel we should use normally?? Why not 32 bits? And another question why shourcut ctrl+i doesnt work on 32 bit channel?? (also different functions)
The 16-bit color of Photoshop will make the file size huge, and at the end, the layers must be merged and converted back to 8-bit color for proofing. Can the 16-bit color be directly used for proofing? thanks
You're honestly the best educator on youtube!
I agree. And it helps that his voice is also very pleasant.
I've encountered those color artifacts countless times and I never found a way to solve it until now. So a big "thank you" from the heart.
OMG! I have images in 8 bits with horrible banding that I've kept for years just because I love them anyway, but of course I couldn't sell them or show them to anyone, just had to keep them private for my own enjoyment. Now with this information, I should be able to go back and rescue them and share them with the world. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
So I'm guessing 32-Bit opens a new dimension or something.
hahahahahaha
lmao right!
We've heard that it gets Psy jealous going into that sort of territory..
It's really cool creating an HDR image by combining several exposures and working with it as a 32-bit image. The freedom to manipulate the brightness is insane.
prolly Mortal Kombat Realm
Thanks for all your useful videos
fyi, you can fix the inaccurate preview of 18 bit by going into PS settings / performance and changing the Cache Levels.
Changing the cache levels to more or ??
@@NicolasRao more
Excellent explanation, I was always working in 16 bit in Prophoto color space and then saving as Jpeg or for the web but found I had to make color adjustments again as the color saturation was lost in both methods of saving. I have not used the export command at all, did use flatten but did not save the 16-bit copy yet another blunder. This double work has had me thinking where do I find the right way. Thank you, that tutorial was perfect. I am not a pro but take pride in my work. I have been in photography and was an expert in film. Digital still gives me a few hiccups. Guess this will take one of those big ones away. Thank you Unmesh, its always so clearly explained by you. Thank you.
Thanks, a great explanation!
I wish I had known about this some 15 years ago when I made the switch to digital photography.
Me too. I switched late only in 2006, oh yes, that's 14 years ago, gosh time flies.
I was always confused about 8/16 bit. this tutorial broke down everything for me. thanks a lot brother!
Thanks for this tutorial. Ive spent many hours cursing and trying to fix this exact issue. The funny thing is it normally only happens when I have a BLACK background. Your solution is alot quicker and easier than my work around. Lol.
Knowing how to induce this banding in images could be very useful if you are into block shading in terms of digital art. Such a multifaceted tip.
That was amazing, Thank you for sharing all this.
I know this is an older video but I was under the impression (and taught) to work with the highest level of detail (so in this case it would be 16-bit if we're talking about bit depth) and take your "losses" as you go (ie. when exporting or performing tasks that can only be done in 8-bit). Same for color spaces (although with color spaces, particularly with Adobe RGB and say ProPhoto RGB) the changes may be more minimal, but when you go to say an even smaller color space such as sRGB, you may see some color shifts and blends /merging due to the smaller color space.
This video just save my life!!!! Thank you!!
Very nice, already used this technique since 90's on editing videos/3d animations, and we call these artifacts as "color banding". Until now I have seen many edited photos/videos getting this problem. Thank you for this Unmesh.
You PIXimperfect are really golden!
Very nice tip. Thank YOU! :)
Youre freaking awesome, man. Your tips are lifesavers and make such a huge difference while working with photoshop. Thanks a lot!
Brilliant and very clear tutorial!
What is the defiant of
Export - jpeg
And
Save as - jpeg
When you export image you can change its size in pixels, you can export more artboards at once etc.
Same question❓
@@TheZikkyOne ohh.. thank you very much
@@kameronkrudyard You are welcome
Kameron K Rudyard ..also worth mentioning is that “save as” returns the edited photo (as a copy) into LR (if you opened edit in PS from within LR)..
Great video as always ! Awesome, thank you
legend says " even in his real life unmesh uses Photoshop curves to darken his hair and refine edge to groom his beautiful beard "
love your tutorials, thanks!
Amazing video, love the channel!
Incredibly useful tip
Your video is so crispy! Love it thank you
Awesome, i was just watching some of your older videos on banding. I'm working on a very purple-pink-orange-ish image of palm trees and a sunset. Lots of curves/color manipulation though, so this will surely come handy. Unmesh you're a pro. A master!
Excellent! Thank you again for another great video
I know this video was uploaded a long time ago, I still wanted to say "Thank you!"
Thanks a lot Unmesh! Very helpful!
I know this from experience when I use frequency separation it happens in skies sometimes. 16bit helps.
Hey Unmesh, is there really any diff between "save as jpeg" and "export to jpeg"?
I prefer exporting because you get much more control over the images
Mason i have always used as save as.. jpeg
I found out "Export" reduces the resolution's ppp without asking, so not good for printing.
I was intending to find that out myself. Guess getting the right answer would be nice. I found there was the color loss in save as command to 8 bit .jpg or .png
Dr. Nicolas Rao wow thats nice
Thank you for your tips
Thanks for sharing your tutorial.
Thank you man, you are the best!
Nice tips
you just saved my whole work omg, i wish i had seen this before :( you're truly amazing
Super. Thanks.
Great man! Congratulations for the work. Thank you very much.
Very good explanation right to the point. Thank you!
Thank you Very much sir
Your every video is packed with in depth information... no lazy moments...👌🏻👌🏻
You are much better off using 16 bit for printing. Especially on certain tones such as graduations of colour on a sunset for example. On a 8bit you are far more likely to result in banding.
I am using 16 bit for printing my magazine would it be nice,?
but the file wil large
Thanks a lot
You are my favorite go to for anything Photoshop! Thank you so much for all this free gold content 🙌
wow..helped me a lot. Thank you for making this video.
Awesome reason to use 16 bit. I can now hopefully get rid of my banding issues when lifting up dark shadows from D750 when lightening too much it shows banding. This should work with 16 bit. Thanks..
Great photo, impressive lighting
Amazing tutorial, such a great teacher.
I'm a very big fan of you.
great information bro. tks
I love the way when you explain
Amazing ! This guy is photoshop master 😎
I love you man...you tutoring exceptional
Your tutorial is awesome
Thank you! You're the best!
Thanks! it was what i needed
Even Photoshop 2020 can't handle your significant details and it's lagging 😂😉 great job bro
your the best teacher !
Man you are a blessing thank you
This is so helpful! It seems there should be a way to export 8-bit images from a 16-bit file directly. Strange that there isn't...
@yourleftnut1 Thanks!
Excelente,gracias por compartir
this guy really helps me about bit world😆🙏✨ Thanks unmesh!
Great video, thank you.
thx for explanation. It helped me in my work :))
Thank you
thanks for your great videos
I like how every comment on Unmesh's videos are always kind and wholesome.
Bravo ragazzo!! Anch'io faccio sempre così da 16bit esporto in 8 bit. Io sono un fotografo di moda e ora non ho voglia di scrivere in inglese!!
Wow! Such a useful one
Thank you, Unmesh! Banding looks ugly! You showed a trick to clean it up easily!
Nice trick
Thanks
Make a video of Most basic features of 2020 Photoshop.....not newly added.....but including the older ones
I see Unmesh, I hit Like😁👍
If you work entirely in 8bit then you can still use all the filters and benefit from the smaller file sizes. You only need to duplicate the document, convert to 16 bit, flatten it then convert back to 8bit at the very end to get all the advantages of the 16 bit workflow without the huge working file sizes.
@@davestokes3446 I'm not saying you flatten the working version of the file, just the exported version.
Hello Unmesh thank you for this helpfull tutorial, i would like to know what also 32bit stands for, can u explain that in a future Video?
IDris CH 32 bit means a maximum value of 2 to the 32nd power , so 4.29 billion (rounded)
Same principle, just multiply by 2 again...
That's a really clean image, what camera/lens was that shot on?
This is completely unrelated to this video's topic, but since this is his latest video I figured there would be more people to help me here. I've been working on a timelapse of a building facade and I am using the perspective warp to adjust the image the way I want, but there are a lot o photos to be adjusted and I don't want to make any mistakes that will ruin my video. Is there a way to save the perspective warp adjustments I used in a previous picture and apply it to all the others? I've been looking for a tutorial about it all over TH-cam but I cannot find it, I just find some basic tutorials about perspective warp.
You kick butt, Pix :D
Unmesh, your videos are so clear and informative - they always help me learn!
I have a question with this, I hope you can answer as you are the Photoshop Guru...
As an alternative to saving a 16-bit copy and proceeding to merge all layers down for 8-bit etc... could highlight everything and make it a smart object, then switch back to 8-bit. This keeps the smart object file at 16-bit with all adjustments in place, and the original file is now back to 8-bit.
It makes sense in my mind, but not sure if there's a reason this wouldn't work. Thanks!
Oscar for this great teacher, he deserves a golden medal, regards from a windy Netherlands
first time I am 1st Love you sir From Pakistan
thank you, well done
Amazing
Savior 🥺❤️
Usefull information.
Hi Unmesh.What channel we should use normally?? Why not 32 bits? And another question why shourcut ctrl+i doesnt work on 32 bit channel?? (also different functions)
Thank you so much sir🙏❤️
You're Amazing
Pehle mujhe kuch nhi ata tha or ab apki video dekhkr mai master ban gya hu
Where is the pic from? Would love to know the details around the lighting
Wow amazing video
thank you!
kindly make tutorial on how to remove backlight flare
The 16-bit color of Photoshop will make the file size huge, and at the end, the layers must be merged and converted back to 8-bit color for proofing. Can the 16-bit color be directly used for proofing? thanks
BRAVO!!!
helpful
You're the man.......❤
I have a question. When you use 16-bit in PS is it 16-bit integer or floating point? Because INT and FP are not the same.
Integer.