You should calibrate the probe using the 4 grub screws. That makes it much more accurate and if you keep the nut and collet on the probe and put a mark on the spindle to align the probe with the mark, you will get much better runout than what you measured. Sorry to see that you crashed the probe but good to see that this is repairable. To calibrate, turn the probe so that the dial indicator touches where on of the grub screws is, then turn 180 degrees and measure again. Loosen one of the screws a bit and tighten the other one. If the runout gets bigger you obviously have to do this the other way around. You may have to loosen all screws just a tiny bit so the center piece can more around a bit. I normally tighten the screws just finger tight until the probe is almost centered and only the apply a bit more torque on the screws. First on two screws at 0 and 180 degree positions and then the ones on 90 and 270 - repeat in small increments and keep measuring the runout to make some fine adjustments
Yes, that little included allen wrench is to be used for adjustment, to dial it in. I'm curious how well this probe will hold the adjustment once it is dialed in. Many of the lower end probes you can get to within 0.05mm or so, but after a little handling, in a few days, they are way out of concentricity again.
Does the signal wire put out a negative current or positive? I just ordered one for my 3040 cnc I'm running a szgh controller and it looks for a ground signal for the probe
these 4 screws, in my opinion, you should adjust because even on the video you can see that the needle screw does not rotate in the axis, 0.1mm error is a lot.
Hey Max, thanks for sharing your experiences with this. I also had a quick look for touch probes, and had the shock of their cost! I'm going to see if I can get hold of one :) Really appreciate your detailed description.
The 3 or 4 screws on the top are to adjust it for runout so in theory the collet don't matter however you would need to put it in the same way every time or just check it every use
Nive that they send individual proof of calibration. I imagine that if you are using Mach4 for instance, you would go through the probe calibration routine as well for good measure. It is quite sobering to gradually know the idiosyncrasies of your machine in graphic detail. Especially when you do a teardown. You get to see all the mistakes, all the shortcuts and possible knockoff components that have been used. That my deal anyway. The gantry type CNC Router is limited by its construction. All linear bearing tolerance are added and then the ball screws followed by Z axis assembly construction and tool stick out. Before you start the spindle and make chips. For my situation, I have 200mm effective Z axis and attempting to upgrade for creating metal parts is humbling for sure. I am hoping to find the feeds and speeds for spindle that has little torque at RPM lower than 12000. I will have moved the material closer to the spindle by 80mm by the time I install the final fixture plate. And it is probably to thin at 13mm. I might have to buy 25mm stock to reduce resonance . It is a money pit no matter how you slice it. And I am as frugal as it gets. But once you have a metal fixture plate this 3D Probe is essential because conductive nature of the metal bed material Wise of you to point out that use of anything other than proven "AAA" rated collet is pointless. In my early days, I didn't question the collets I bought. I was trying to tram my spindle with an 8mm collet that was so out of concentricity that the readings made only confusion. Eventually you realize that everything must pass stringent test especially if you are preparing for metal machining. I know it is late to comment but that version of an ER collet the UM type could be tightened with a pin spanner. I have said too much as usual.. C
Hah, completely agree. I've just completed a granite based CNC router and have never dealt with such high requirements for accuracy in so many places on one project. Using a high quality digital indicator on various points is indeed very sobering... and humbling.
Hi MAX, thanks for sharing Wouldbe great if you can share the wiring and the program you've made to run it, it would help a lot of enthusiast! Thanks one more time!
Hey, yea that would have made sense. On the other hand everyone is using different hard and software. Wiring: red to V+, Black to GND, Yellow to your probe input pin. Software: no idea that depends... I use estlcam I define which is the probe pin and the rest are premade macros 🤷♂️
There's no point adjusting it unless you have an ATC spindle that grantees the orientation of the tool in the spindle every time it's inserted. With a manual tool change spindle, every time you insert the probe, it's going to be out of calibration in a different direction.
I haven’t found the procedure, but I did find this video and it’s clear once you se what’s inside. I put it in a tool holder and then into the spindle and indicated it with a 0.0001” indicator. I got lazy in the end, but mine repeats within a couple tenths regardless of orientation so it’s pretty concentric. When you turn a screw, it pulls the stylus toward that screw, so you can adjust them a bit each as you turn the probe until it’s centred. Ronald is correct that it’s very much like adjusting a 4 jaw chuck, you can go back and forth between them until it’s right.
It is basically just a spring loaded brass Pin that is connectet to an io on my cnc board. The moment the tool touches the surface it pulls the pin to GND (Frame, spindle and tool are all connected to GND) and the touch is detected. I made it spring loaded so I have some give, just in case to stop it, but never needed it to be :)
normal touch probe cost less than 100$ i buy my probe 64$ same probe than u have, and better big version about cost 140$ max. but not can use big because have ER 11 spindle maximum can use 8mm collect. and all better need min 10mm collect. but if need only Z tool lenght measure need only 2 wire, alligator clip or magnet, and brass or aluminium plate, thats all. less than 10$ cost all parts- and if need XYZ corner finder you can mill aluminium piece square pocket and then pocket corner round hole, then outside cut piece out of alumin plate square outside cutting. thats all, yotube have many video how do, not need buy probe.
Don't be too hard on yourself about your router's accuracy. At 10:35, the entire body of the probe itself can be seen wobbling slightly, while its connection to your spindle is not, so aligning it is worth the effort. Also, I noticed a consequence of having a cable coming out the side of a probe is that it can cause the probe to rotate, as yours did at 20:58. Again, not an issue with your router, but something to consider when using wired probes :)
@@mattivirta I'm curious about the thread of the stylus, it says M2.5. But most ruby styluses Iv'e seen use M2, M3 and upwards. Haven't seen the 2.5mm version anywhere.
In case anyone else was interested... The parts of note on the main circuitboard are the LDO (low dropout regulator / voltage regulator) Which is a 78L05 and the MCU (Microcontroller) Which looks to be an FT60F01x by FMD.. a 6pin 8-bit MCU with an internal 16mhz oscillator. I'm unsure as to why it has six pins on the connector..
Fairly sure there scews to adjust the probe tip runout on the body. If you break tip on renishaw new ones is up to 100 microns off. we try to to get it into
Yea they can be adjusted on the top screws. When I did that video I did not measure my machine before and did not know what to expert, so i was a bit disappointed but overall the machine is ok, the probe is fine and I'm happy 😁
Good point. Other then that they are good for a rough estimate (good enough for most hobbyists I guess). Workaround would also be to have fixt reference corner on the machine where you "calibrate" it on every use.
At 13:23 stop mocking me. Did the same exact thing with a little more disastrous result. Need to 3d print a couple pieces. Nice video, thanks for the look inside.
Since I have no idea what PCB you have I can only offer a general answer: This probe is basically just a switch. The Black wire goes to ground/GND (anywhere on your PCB) the Red wire goes to power (logic power of you PCB [+5V?]) and the Yellow one goes to the switch input. That switch input can be an Endstop pin or a probe bin, depends on you PCB and how you configure it in your software. Hope that helps ;)
Hello! I bought the exact same device. But the Chinese comrades forgot to put the cable (or so I ordered). I can't find the pinout of the connector on the sensor housing anywhere. When you opened it, did you draw a diagram? I will be grateful for the information.
I'm not 100% sure but by the looks of it the inside plastic parts might now be injection molded ABS. On mine it seems to be 3D printed (sintered) Nylon. But that's just a guess.
Do you hace a reverse engineered schematic or hires picture of the PCB? Especially the 6 pin IC. Current Christmas project is a circuit that detects the resistance rise of the contacts rather than triggering only when the contacts are fully open.
@@MakenModify That would be lovely, thanks you. I'm nearly there with my circuit but more data is always good. Would be interesting to test on you probe type but would likely need to bypass the internal PCB.
Natürlich kann man auch ein Normales USB-C Kabel nutzen. Zumindest funktioniert das bei mir. Was nicht funktioniert sind die USB-C only Ladekabel. Das Kabel muss halt die richtigen Pins haben. Da gibt es Unterschiede.
yep, gibt halt USB-C Kabel die eigentlich nur für USB 2.0 geeignet sind die nur die zwei Datenleitungen sowie 5V und GND haben... die dürften nicht funktionieren
I have one of these and once zeroed they are extremely good and mine has been rock solid reliable. I have found that to get 1:100 mm accuracy I need to recalibrate it for that use as the collet chuck has some run out. I have brought precision ground collets and nut but it still not absolutely perfect. That said for 99% of my set ups there is no need for such accuracy so I don't bother. Bottom line for the price it is very good and it replaced my Drew probe and in my opinion its far better.
plug wiring : (-)(+)(s)(s)(+)(-) my pcb failed after second use. Components: 78L05 (5v reg), J3Y NPN transistor (eq. s8050), red & green LED, 5 resistors, diode, 2 caps and FMD 530krn ( I CAN FIND NO INFORMATION) Any information on FND 530krn or replacement PCB? Email me if want copy schematic.
Hm... Also can't find it. Do you know its function? Maybe it can be replaced with something compatible. Also if possible I would contact the seller, that it broke that quick maybe they replace it
@@MakenModify No response from the seller. My knowledge of electronic is very limited. The 530 chip is 6 pin. pin1 to base NPN, pin 2 - gnd, pin3- led1 pin 4- switch pin1 (switch pin2 ground when closed) , pin 5 - +5v 78L05 and to 330 resistor then both leds, pin 6 -led 2. Hope this sense. Mike
@@mikee8467 oh, sounds like a small microcontroller... Like an ATtiny10 style (there are countless small and cheap Chinese MCUs)... To replace it one would need a pin compatible chip and program it (if its broken). If its buying is not to long ago I was lucky in the past by using aliexpresses support. - Max
Hi there, would you happen to know the value of the diode labeled as bz (just next to the usb plug) used in this chinese touch probe by any chance? Could it be a SMBJ24A?
Yes. But it was "factory calibrated" so that was something that should be tested. After the crash (after the video) I did zero ot properly using the screws.
@@MakenModify Maybe?? but i have one in a cat 40 and if and when you break a probe you must re zero using the setscrews. it was close but not perfect out of the box and its a Haimer ..
The white plastic? It's just an IKEA cutting board. I drilled and countersunk holes into it, mounted it to the table and faced it with an end mill. Works well for "Super glue and tape work holding"
@@MakenModify I'm not talking about tool autochange. I'm talking about that the probe is not attached to the collet, but separately, next to the spindle. on a parallel single rail or rotating arm. so that it can be put in the same working position, and then it is not necessary to change the collets, but only take into account the displacement of the probe relative to the spindle axis.
@@АндрейТиторенко-ю4ф Yea I got that, but that needs a better repeatability than the run out. The probe must be out of the way and be protected from coolend and dirt... and I don't need it on most parts so manuell it is for me. But in general you are right, it could be a way.
I don't get why this kind of probe needs power at all. It's a mechanical design. It's hard to tell from the video, but there isn't much on the PCB at all. Would be great if you could provide a close-up image. Sorry for the opportunity of the teardown :)
with electronics, you can make any version of the signal NO or NC, as well as visually see the operation of the probe, which also makes it possible to use it not only on the CNC, but also on manual routers
@@АндрейТиторенко-ю4ф NC->NO conversion is nothing that has to be handled by probe itself. The signal can easily be inverted on the controller side, electronically or in software. The LED could be powered by the signal line. Visually the light could go out instead of turning on. I still don't see a good reason for electronics.
@@tcurdt can be done in different ways, one method does not cancel the others. this probe is one of the cheapest probes to buy, so the presence of electronics only makes it better for this price. my controller has only one input for probes or tool height sensors, so I need to assemble a set of the same type of sensors. for example I want three types of sensor. the first is an aluminum plate for finding zero Z and the angle of the workpiece along the cutter, and it is NO, a probe for more complex positioning, and a tool height sensor for working with several tools on one part. in my case, all of them are NO, and mechanically the first one is only NO, the probe is NC, and the height sensors can be of both options.
@@АндрейТиторенко-ю4ф There are many options indeed. You could just invert the signal also for your setup. That's a BJT and two resistors. This does not have be done inside the probe and then having to have another cable to connect (that can be forgotten). Or the cable to probe could just have 3 wires (similar to other endstops). I say it again: I don't see the need for electronics in there yet. Maybe they are doing some hardware debouncing? That's the only thing I could come up with - and why I am curious what's in there.
That is absolutely correct. My best guess is that if it would be NC it would always have to stay connected. Because it would trigger as soon as you unplug it.
@@MakenModify I have a normally closed version, model TP06, just trying to work out how to wire mine as mine uses a tool probe which is a normally closed switch
Genau die habe ich auch 😀 Wenn man dieses Teil wieder ausspannt, verstellt sich die Einstellung schon während man es aus der Spannzange zieht. Die Konstruktion ist leider so. Es sind ja nur die winzig kleinen Madenschrauben die die Aufnahme halten und wenn man den Taster in die Spannzange rein drückt oder rauszieht, wird Kraft auf diese Einstellung ausgeübt und das Ding verstellt sich wieder. Das kräftigere Spannen der Madenschrauben, verursacht nur die Verrundung des Sechskants und der Schlüssel dreht durch 😀 Das Teil ist eben eine Fehlkonstruktion in meinen Augen, oder man macht sich eben die Arbeit, bei JEDEM Antasten den Taster neu einzustellen ;-) Schade, da das Ding echt super schön aussieht und recht günstig für mich war, bei aliexpress war (knapp 60€) 😞
Mir fällt gerade noch ein, dass man es ja testen könnte, indem man für den Taster eine Extra-Spannzange mit Mutter zulegt und diese dann immer ganz vorsichtig aus der Spindel holt. Wäre evtl. dann eine Möglichkeit, da sich die Einstellung dann nicht verstellen sollte ;-)
@@MrThelooord ich hab das Problem gelöst. Eine ordentliche Spannzange kaufen,mit Loctite 270 auf den Schaft des Tasters kleben. Und dann eine Markierung auf der Spindel anbringen,den Taster immer einigermassen gleich einspannen. Dann ist die Genauigkeit +- 0,005mm
@@fastfred6372 das heisst also, du hast den Taster mit der Spannzange verklebt und benutzt diese Spannzange nur für den Taster, so wie ich sagte? Die Überwurfmutter, zum Spannzangen spannen, ist dann natürlich auch mit dem Gebilde verbunden.
@@MrThelooord genau. Durch eine Verdrehung in der Spannzange wird durch die Länge des Tasters der Rundlauf schlecht. Wenn die Spannzange 0,005 Rundlaufungenauigkeit hat ist das in 50mm Entfernung schnell mal mehr als ein Zehntel. Das obengenannte Prozedere,dann Rundlauf vom Taster justieren und die Wiederholgenauigkeit passt.
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
You should calibrate the probe using the 4 grub screws. That makes it much more accurate and if you keep the nut and collet on the probe and put a mark on the spindle to align the probe with the mark, you will get much better runout than what you measured. Sorry to see that you crashed the probe but good to see that this is repairable.
To calibrate, turn the probe so that the dial indicator touches where on of the grub screws is, then turn 180 degrees and measure again. Loosen one of the screws a bit and tighten the other one. If the runout gets bigger you obviously have to do this the other way around.
You may have to loosen all screws just a tiny bit so the center piece can more around a bit. I normally tighten the screws just finger tight until the probe is almost centered and only the apply a bit more torque on the screws. First on two screws at 0 and 180 degree positions and then the ones on 90 and 270 - repeat in small increments and keep measuring the runout to make some fine adjustments
Yes, that little included allen wrench is to be used for adjustment, to dial it in. I'm curious how well this probe will hold the adjustment once it is dialed in. Many of the lower end probes you can get to within 0.05mm or so, but after a little handling, in a few days, they are way out of concentricity again.
I love the POM cutting board wasteboard :D
Hehe thx. I think it's HDPE but don't quote me on that 😉
@@MakenModify Ahh thought it was POM / derlin :p Great vid btw... about to order this probe for the printNC im going to build.
@@MD_Builds hehe yea looks like it ;) a touch probe is nice to have but should not have a to high priority on a tight budget 😉
Does the signal wire put out a negative current or positive? I just ordered one for my 3040 cnc I'm running a szgh controller and it looks for a ground signal for the probe
It's been a while since i wired it up but I believe it pulls the pin to ground.
these 4 screws, in my opinion, you should adjust because even on the video you can see that the needle screw does not rotate in the axis, 0.1mm error is a lot.
Hey Max, thanks for sharing your experiences with this. I also had a quick look for touch probes, and had the shock of their cost! I'm going to see if I can get hold of one :)
Really appreciate your detailed description.
I'm always happy to hear that I could help someone, thank you for letting me know :)
The 3 or 4 screws on the top are to adjust it for runout so in theory the collet don't matter however you would need to put it in the same way every time or just check it every use
Nive that they send individual proof of calibration. I imagine that if you are using Mach4 for instance, you would go through the probe calibration routine as well for good measure.
It is quite sobering to gradually know the idiosyncrasies of your machine in graphic detail. Especially when you do a teardown. You get to see all the mistakes, all the shortcuts and possible knockoff components that have been used. That my deal anyway. The gantry type CNC Router is limited by its construction. All linear bearing tolerance are added and then the ball screws followed by Z axis assembly construction and tool stick out. Before you start the spindle and make chips.
For my situation, I have 200mm effective Z axis and attempting to upgrade for creating metal parts is humbling for sure. I am hoping to find the feeds and speeds for spindle that has little torque at RPM lower than 12000. I will have moved the material closer to the spindle by 80mm by the time I install the final fixture plate. And it is probably to thin at 13mm. I might have to buy 25mm stock to reduce resonance . It is a money pit no matter how you slice it. And I am as frugal as it gets.
But once you have a metal fixture plate this 3D Probe is essential because conductive nature of the metal bed material
Wise of you to point out that use of anything other than proven "AAA" rated collet is pointless. In my early days, I didn't question the collets I bought. I was trying to tram my spindle with an 8mm collet that was so out of concentricity that the readings made only confusion. Eventually you realize that everything must pass stringent test especially if you are preparing for metal machining. I know it is late to comment but that version of an ER collet the UM type could be tightened with a pin spanner.
I have said too much as usual.. C
Hah, completely agree. I've just completed a granite based CNC router and have never dealt with such high requirements for accuracy in so many places on one project. Using a high quality digital indicator on various points is indeed very sobering... and humbling.
Hi MAX, thanks for sharing
Wouldbe great if you can share the wiring and the program you've made to run it, it would help a lot of enthusiast!
Thanks one more time!
Hey, yea that would have made sense. On the other hand everyone is using different hard and software.
Wiring: red to V+, Black to GND, Yellow to your probe input pin.
Software: no idea that depends... I use estlcam I define which is the probe pin and the rest are premade macros 🤷♂️
And now you know why NC switches/probes are used :).
Good video about the probe though, been thinking of getting one.
True story 😉 yea that's how it should be done 😬
why do not you adjust it? you have 4 insex so you can adjust it. Can not just be assembled and believe that it is right from the manufacturer.
yea meanwhile did that ;)
There's no point adjusting it unless you have an ATC spindle that grantees the orientation of the tool in the spindle every time it's inserted. With a manual tool change spindle, every time you insert the probe, it's going to be out of calibration in a different direction.
Thanks from Colorado.
There is an alignment procedure to make it more accurate on your machine. Basically it adjusts like a 4 jaw lathe chuck.
yea possible, but still I think my spindle once took a hit to much ;)
Do you have link to the procedure?
@@DavidR8 th-cam.com/video/CJmqd0pvlfU/w-d-xo.html
I haven’t found the procedure, but I did find this video and it’s clear once you se what’s inside. I put it in a tool holder and then into the spindle and indicated it with a 0.0001” indicator. I got lazy in the end, but mine repeats within a couple tenths regardless of orientation so it’s pretty concentric.
When you turn a screw, it pulls the stylus toward that screw, so you can adjust them a bit each as you turn the probe until it’s centred. Ronald is correct that it’s very much like adjusting a 4 jaw chuck, you can go back and forth between them until it’s right.
Finally you are back!!!!
hehe yea finally had some time ;)
And he finally returned!
I guess. Life is very busy ;)
I want to use 3D probe with Syntec cnc controller
I have no idea about Syntec and can't help you with that. I mean you apparently are the support so I would ask you 😅
Could you please tell more about the tool length sensor.
It is basically just a spring loaded brass Pin that is connectet to an io on my cnc board. The moment the tool touches the surface it pulls the pin to GND (Frame, spindle and tool are all connected to GND) and the touch is detected. I made it spring loaded so I have some give, just in case to stop it, but never needed it to be :)
normal touch probe cost less than 100$ i buy my probe 64$ same probe than u have, and better big version about cost 140$ max. but not can use big because have ER 11 spindle maximum can use 8mm collect. and all better need min 10mm collect. but if need only Z tool lenght measure need only 2 wire, alligator clip or magnet, and brass or aluminium plate, thats all. less than 10$ cost all parts- and if need XYZ corner finder you can mill aluminium piece square pocket and then pocket corner round hole, then outside cut piece out of alumin plate square outside cutting. thats all, yotube have many video how do, not need buy probe.
you not need worry any expensive if have super expensive and too big spindle cheap mini size cnc frame, haha. too big this mini small mikro table.
Don't be too hard on yourself about your router's accuracy. At 10:35, the entire body of the probe itself can be seen wobbling slightly, while its connection to your spindle is not, so aligning it is worth the effort. Also, I noticed a consequence of having a cable coming out the side of a probe is that it can cause the probe to rotate, as yours did at 20:58. Again, not an issue with your router, but something to consider when using wired probes :)
Today just broke my by same mistake 🤣 definitly need probe presence pin 😅
yea that might be a good idea... at least they are not that expansive 😅
@@MakenModify same probe, pin cost about 4-12$ pcs, many seller have. and if have lathe can made own pin cheapen.
@@mattivirta I'm curious about the thread of the stylus, it says M2.5. But most ruby styluses Iv'e seen use M2, M3 and upwards.
Haven't seen the 2.5mm version anywhere.
Does it work with silicon or rubber material with same accuracy
10 microns for about $100? Nice.
I know this is an old post, but would you have the probe macro (script) you used for the probing process.
I use estlcam to control my CNC I use the built-in probing function. Don't know if this information is helpful to you but thats all it is really
In case anyone else was interested...
The parts of note on the main circuitboard are the LDO (low dropout regulator / voltage regulator) Which is a 78L05
and the MCU (Microcontroller) Which looks to be an FT60F01x by FMD.. a 6pin 8-bit MCU with an internal 16mhz oscillator.
I'm unsure as to why it has six pins on the connector..
6 pin for Microcontroller programming
Fairly sure there scews to adjust the probe tip runout on the body. If you break tip on renishaw new ones is up to 100 microns off. we try to to get it into
Yea they can be adjusted on the top screws. When I did that video I did not measure my machine before and did not know what to expert, so i was a bit disappointed but overall the machine is ok, the probe is fine and I'm happy 😁
These things need calibrating (4 headless alen screws) every time you put them in a collet.
They are useful only with a tool changing spindle.
Good point. Other then that they are good for a rough estimate (good enough for most hobbyists I guess). Workaround would also be to have fixt reference corner on the machine where you "calibrate" it on every use.
At 13:23 stop mocking me. Did the same exact thing with a little more disastrous result. Need to 3d print a couple pieces. Nice video, thanks for the look inside.
Yea i guess it's nice that it is detachable but also makes this happen easier
has someone the scheme on how to connect
Awesome video! Do you know if the contacts are gold plated or brass?
Looked like gold but did not test.
@@MakenModify gold bullets and rods
AHAHAAHAH, I skipped to 13:40 )))) Sorry about the crash, mate)
Hehe, that is what time stamps are for 😉
I bought one and dont know how to plug on my pcb ... could u show us where should i plug in
Since I have no idea what PCB you have I can only offer a general answer:
This probe is basically just a switch. The Black wire goes to ground/GND (anywhere on your PCB) the Red wire goes to power (logic power of you PCB [+5V?]) and the Yellow one goes to the switch input. That switch input can be an Endstop pin or a probe bin, depends on you PCB and how you configure it in your software. Hope that helps ;)
What was the CAM software you referred to here ? I didnt understand it that well.
I am using EstlCam for most of my stuff. For mor complex things I use Fusion (but I try to get away from it)
Hello! I bought the exact same device. But the Chinese comrades forgot to put the cable (or so I ordered). I can't find the pinout of the connector on the sensor housing anywhere. When you opened it, did you draw a diagram? I will be grateful for the information.
I used an old iPhone cable for mine. Both red wires are V+ .Shield is ground. Blue is NPN N/O.
Does this fit Fanuc System?
any idea what the difference is between the V5 and V6 model ? thanks
I'm not 100% sure but by the looks of it the inside plastic parts might now be injection molded ABS. On mine it seems to be 3D printed (sintered) Nylon. But that's just a guess.
Do you hace a reverse engineered schematic or hires picture of the PCB? Especially the 6 pin IC. Current Christmas project is a circuit that detects the resistance rise of the contacts rather than triggering only when the contacts are fully open.
Might have pictures on my old PC will have to have a look. I would bet it it's one of those chips without a datasheet 😅
@@MakenModify That would be lovely, thanks you. I'm nearly there with my circuit but more data is always good. Would be interesting to test on you probe type but would likely need to bypass the internal PCB.
Natürlich kann man auch ein Normales USB-C Kabel nutzen. Zumindest funktioniert das bei mir. Was nicht funktioniert sind die USB-C only Ladekabel.
Das Kabel muss halt die richtigen Pins haben. Da gibt es Unterschiede.
yep, gibt halt USB-C Kabel die eigentlich nur für USB 2.0 geeignet sind die nur die zwei Datenleitungen sowie 5V und GND haben... die dürften nicht funktionieren
Gruess Dich Max - Vielen dank fuer deine arbeit mit die touch probe. MFG von Romeo, Michigan, USA
Hehe danke, war ein sehr spontanes Video. Grüße zurück ;)
I have one of these and once zeroed they are extremely good and mine has been rock solid reliable. I have found that to get 1:100 mm accuracy I need to recalibrate it for that use as the collet chuck has some run out. I have brought precision ground collets and nut but it still not absolutely perfect. That said for 99% of my set ups there is no need for such accuracy so I don't bother. Bottom line for the price it is very good and it replaced my Drew probe and in my opinion its far better.
Yea absolutely agree. It's planty accurate for home gaming. Even with precision chuck and nut my spindle (or the ground cone in it) have more run out.
plug wiring : (-)(+)(s)(s)(+)(-)
my pcb failed after second use. Components: 78L05 (5v reg), J3Y NPN transistor (eq. s8050), red & green LED, 5 resistors, diode, 2 caps and FMD 530krn ( I CAN FIND NO INFORMATION)
Any information on FND 530krn or replacement PCB?
Email me if want copy schematic.
Hm... Also can't find it. Do you know its function? Maybe it can be replaced with something compatible. Also if possible I would contact the seller, that it broke that quick maybe they replace it
@@MakenModify No response from the seller. My knowledge of electronic is very limited. The 530 chip is 6 pin. pin1 to base NPN, pin 2 - gnd, pin3- led1 pin 4- switch pin1 (switch pin2 ground when closed) , pin 5 - +5v 78L05 and to 330 resistor then both leds, pin 6 -led 2.
Hope this sense. Mike
@@mikee8467 oh, sounds like a small microcontroller... Like an ATtiny10 style (there are countless small and cheap Chinese MCUs)... To replace it one would need a pin compatible chip and program it (if its broken). If its buying is not to long ago I was lucky in the past by using aliexpresses support. - Max
Hi there, would you happen to know the value of the diode labeled as bz (just next to the usb plug) used in this chinese touch probe by any chance? Could it be a SMBJ24A?
No idea really. Did not try to reverse engineer it. Was to annoyed when I broke it 😅
@@MakenModify thnxs man. you broke yours and I burnt mine😆
@@Mrkemalkut ah damn 😅 if I find the time I might take it apart again and see what I can find out.
now I just need to find an 6mm r8 tool holder
never mind, just made an adapter for a 3/8 collet
Theres set screws that allow you to ZERO the probe...WOW use the set screws thats why they are there
Yes. But it was "factory calibrated" so that was something that should be tested. After the crash (after the video) I did zero ot properly using the screws.
@@MakenModify Maybe?? but i have one in a cat 40 and if and when you break a probe you must re zero using the setscrews. it was close but not perfect out of the box and its a Haimer ..
Bummer!
Sorry for the crash. I have the same probe and yes, so much runout. Did you try to calibrate yours? How is it done?
did not find the time yet. I think it is done on the top screws (where the shaft meets the body)
@@MakenModify hi, I adjusted it yesterday. You simply use the 4 set screws on the sides.
Sir, do you have URL for the Plate on the aluminium one? Thank you!
The white plastic? It's just an IKEA cutting board. I drilled and countersunk holes into it, mounted it to the table and faced it with an end mill. Works well for "Super glue and tape work holding"
@@MakenModify btw don't you know the name at Ikea website? Thanks!
@@MakenModify LEGITIM 34x24cm ?
how about putting the probe on a lifting bracket? the bracket play may turn out to be less than the collet error and it will be faster in operation.
hehe yea. Ultimately a automatic tool changer would be nice but that might cost as much as the mill itself :D
@@MakenModify I'm not talking about tool autochange. I'm talking about that the probe is not attached to the collet, but separately, next to the spindle. on a parallel single rail or rotating arm.
so that it can be put in the same working position, and then it is not necessary to change the collets, but only take into account the displacement of the probe relative to the spindle axis.
@@АндрейТиторенко-ю4ф Yea I got that, but that needs a better repeatability than the run out. The probe must be out of the way and be protected from coolend and dirt... and I don't need it on most parts so manuell it is for me. But in general you are right, it could be a way.
@@MakenModify here is one of the options for such mounting
th-cam.com/video/iwHlU5EdDrI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=YannPomarede
Mach 3 controls?
No idea. I use estlcam but see no reason why it would not work.
Do you know if something needs to be set up in the mach? I have an identical one, and I will also need to measure the corner@@MakenModify
I don't get why this kind of probe needs power at all. It's a mechanical design. It's hard to tell from the video, but there isn't much on the PCB at all. Would be great if you could provide a close-up image. Sorry for the opportunity of the teardown :)
you are right it is basically just a switch maybe they needed it to invert the signal. I'll have a look if I have some high res images ;)
with electronics, you can make any version of the signal NO or NC, as well as visually see the operation of the probe, which also makes it possible to use it not only on the CNC, but also on manual routers
@@АндрейТиторенко-ю4ф NC->NO conversion is nothing that has to be handled by probe itself. The signal can easily be inverted on the controller side, electronically or in software. The LED could be powered by the signal line. Visually the light could go out instead of turning on. I still don't see a good reason for electronics.
@@tcurdt can be done in different ways, one method does not cancel the others. this probe is one of the cheapest probes to buy, so the presence of electronics only makes it better for this price.
my controller has only one input for probes or tool height sensors, so I need to assemble a set of the same type of sensors.
for example I want three types of sensor. the first is an aluminum plate for finding zero Z and the angle of the workpiece along the cutter, and it is NO, a probe for more complex positioning, and a tool height sensor for working with several tools on one part. in my case, all of them are NO, and mechanically the first one is only NO, the probe is NC, and the height sensors can be of both options.
@@АндрейТиторенко-ю4ф There are many options indeed. You could just invert the signal also for your setup. That's a BJT and two resistors. This does not have be done inside the probe and then having to have another cable to connect (that can be forgotten). Or the cable to probe could just have 3 wires (similar to other endstops). I say it again: I don't see the need for electronics in there yet. Maybe they are doing some hardware debouncing? That's the only thing I could come up with - and why I am curious what's in there.
I do not understand why it is NO and not NC. With NC this would not have happened.
That is absolutely correct. My best guess is that if it would be NC it would always have to stay connected. Because it would trigger as soon as you unplug it.
@@MakenModify is there a cheap probe that is NC?
@@4x4-l2t if you really want to you can hardware invert the signal with a bit of electronics but I don't really see the point
@@MakenModify I have a normally closed version, model TP06, just trying to work out how to wire mine as mine uses a tool probe which is a normally closed switch
@@MakenModify I assume it only "triggers" when you are running the script looking for it to trigger?
That's why I bought the Normally Closed one, it's a bit more expensive but it should survive my attention disorders ;)
Hehe yea saw that they have them now. They did not exist when I bought mine 😅
Hast du Rundlaufabweichungen nach wiederholtem ein ausspannen ?
Genau die habe ich auch 😀
Wenn man dieses Teil wieder ausspannt, verstellt sich die Einstellung schon während man es aus der Spannzange zieht.
Die Konstruktion ist leider so.
Es sind ja nur die winzig kleinen Madenschrauben die die Aufnahme halten und wenn man den Taster in die Spannzange rein drückt oder rauszieht, wird Kraft auf diese Einstellung ausgeübt und das Ding verstellt sich wieder.
Das kräftigere Spannen der Madenschrauben, verursacht nur die Verrundung des Sechskants und der Schlüssel dreht durch 😀
Das Teil ist eben eine Fehlkonstruktion in meinen Augen, oder man macht sich eben die Arbeit, bei JEDEM Antasten den Taster neu einzustellen ;-)
Schade, da das Ding echt super schön aussieht und recht günstig für mich war, bei aliexpress war (knapp 60€) 😞
Mir fällt gerade noch ein, dass man es ja testen könnte, indem man für den Taster eine Extra-Spannzange mit Mutter zulegt und diese dann immer ganz vorsichtig aus der Spindel holt.
Wäre evtl. dann eine Möglichkeit, da sich die Einstellung dann nicht verstellen sollte ;-)
@@MrThelooord ich hab das Problem gelöst.
Eine ordentliche Spannzange kaufen,mit Loctite 270 auf den Schaft des Tasters kleben.
Und dann eine Markierung auf der Spindel anbringen,den Taster immer einigermassen gleich einspannen.
Dann ist die Genauigkeit +- 0,005mm
@@fastfred6372 das heisst also, du hast den Taster mit der Spannzange verklebt und benutzt diese Spannzange nur für den Taster, so wie ich sagte?
Die Überwurfmutter, zum Spannzangen spannen, ist dann natürlich auch mit dem Gebilde verbunden.
@@MrThelooord genau.
Durch eine Verdrehung in der Spannzange wird durch die Länge des Tasters der Rundlauf schlecht.
Wenn die Spannzange 0,005 Rundlaufungenauigkeit hat ist das in 50mm Entfernung schnell mal mehr als ein Zehntel.
Das obengenannte Prozedere,dann Rundlauf vom Taster justieren und die Wiederholgenauigkeit passt.
They need to make these SMALLER! For a 3018 with only 75mm Z travel, there really are no good options out there…