Great quality video.👍I found it very interesting. My Bosch Athlet wasn't that old when the batteries started to fade. I very seldom used Turbo. If I did, the batteries would drain within like 2-3 seconds and it would need a new charge. The next thing to happen was that the red sensor light came on and stayed on. If I plug it in to charge, it starts charging and after about 20 seconds, the red light comes on, stays on and stops the charging process. I thought it was a filter warning. I've cleaned the filter but it didn't help. Although, having said that, I didn't put the filter in the washing machine like they state you can in the user manual for a serious clean of the filter. Because it won't charge, it is basically useless to me now. We were never happy with the Bosch Athlet. We both complained that it just pushed particles further forward instead of sucking them up - especially larger particles on hard floors. Your video highlights another design issue with this device that thankfully I didn't encounter. I've bought a Dyson. Yes it is much more expensive but it is far superior in every way. The wife and I are much more satisfied. We will see how long the battery on the Dyson lasts 🤞In the meantime, my advice would be to steer clear of these vacuum's. They are nothing but trouble and the lifetime of the battery pack is ridiculously short.
Nice fix John. My wife likes that I can fix stuff around the house too. As a famous philosopher (Red Green) once said "if the women don't find you handsome they should find you handy" ..... LOL . On another and sadder note we have lost Bear. He was holding his own but had another stroke and couldn't move. There was nothing the vet could do for him so we had to say goodbye. Just about tore our hearts out. Regards, Dave
Hi Dave, Really sorry to hear about Bear my friend 😢. It's a terrible time loosing such a great companion. I hope he is in an awsome place now though, perhaps playing happily and having fun with our Sophie & Heidi 👍. I'm holding out that I'll be able to see them again sometime in future. Take care mate John
Excellent. I've seen other videos showing the failure of those two wires but nice to know what happens if they short when they break. Both my mother and I have Bosch Athlets (but not the zoo models) and although I'm gentle with mine, I envision I might have to open one of them up at some stage. Hers is getting on to nearly 4 years old I think. Apparently the handles break easily as well so it seems the design could definitely do with some 'toughening up', but it's a decent vacuum and she loves hers. I was expecting to have to shell out for a Dyson when I took her to look at stick vacuums but she preferred the Athlet due to the weight being more distributed down the handle. She found it easier to manoeuvre. Only problem is it's fatter and doesn't get under my bed. Oh well still have the old traditional type for occasional use under there and other nooks and crannies. Thanks very much for the tips.
Thanks.. Yea we love the Athlets too. Nice nimble vacuum with enough power for a decent clean too. We chose this one after using Dyson uprights for a while, but they were becoming too heavy. I still love my little Dyson DC34, it's old now but still works great. Cheers, John
It can be quite a challenge to dismantle many modern devices as the designers often employ the use of hidden clips as well as screws, making it a bit of a guessing game! There's nothing worse than wondering why a cover won't come off, even though you've removed all the screws, and then having to potentially risk breaking something as the hidden retaining clips hold it in place incredibly strongly. I sometimes wonder whether it's strictly necessary to bother making it with screws if the plastic parts grip so tightly!
I'm of the same thinking Pete.. I don't see the point at all of using the type of clips that just break off. Especially when it would be no effort at all for manuracturers to replace the things with say.. a simple locating sliding lug or tabs etc which are secure once the screws are tightened. These are also perfectly suitable for preventing vibration etc It really is as if manufacturers make these things to be thrown away as soon as theres a problem, no matter how small. Thanks for the comments friend 👍 John
Got the same Bosh vacuum cleaner, but it doesn't fully charge anymore. I think the battery is failing. Thanks for the video, it gave me knowledge and I'll try to open and replace the battery :)
Yes if it's a few years old It's likely the battery pack on it's way out. Please do be very careful though if you go inside the unit, as I believe the main chip on this vacuums PCB is easily killed with static charge (ESD) I even killed my own vacuum like this and ended up with a new one as I couldn't get a replacement PCB.
@@Amstroid Ah ok 👍️ .. They really are sensitive. I know for a fact that I didn't do anything to physically damage my PCB, as I was just taking voltage readings for somebody else. I was even ultra careful not to short pins etc whilst testing, but even so the board was dead when I tried to fire it up again.
Thanks, need to take ours apart soon to replace the cells. Do you find yours collects grit in the corrugated hose at the bottom so that when you pick up the vacuum it all drops out on the carpet?
Hi Steve.. I know it does get quite a bit of grit collected in that corrugated tube, however I can't say I've noticed much falling out when its picked up. I would noticed that too I think as the vacuum is stored on a hard surface sometimes. I can force some of the grit to fall out though If I rattle the hoover around a bit though or it happens to bang against the cupboard doors when I need it. Not loads though. Cheers John
@@ruchancakaloglu .. Hi, I'm actually not 100% sure, however they looked like 18650 cells, and if there are six of them fitted in the Bosch Athlet vacuum, then this would make up the 25.2v indicated on the front of the cleaner.
Thank you for the fast reply :) I dismantled the athlet now and I found the batteries SAMSUNG SDI ICR18650-22P 1D92 But in our country I can find 1E92 or 1C92 Can I use them? Thanks Ruchan. .
Thanks for the video! Saved me a lot of time especially with the plastic clips. I bought a new brush head, and then was disappointed when it didn't start working. I opened it up and tested the fuse which had no continuity. I also tried shorting across the fuse and sure enough the new brush motor came to life. So I'm purchasing some new fuses. Just wondering though, I was a bit surprised that if I short out the connection with the power switch off, the motor still starts! (by the way, my circuit board is covered in a clear thermoplastic??? protection which will make soldering messy :( )
Hi Philip, I was going to say you're welcome, However.. I fear you may have wasted your money on fuses there my friend. If the motor starts when you short the fuse (Switch in OFF position) there is perhaps another component in the circuitry that has shorted (and this is allowing the motor to start with fuse circuit closed/shorted.) This may have been the reason the fuse blew in the first place. If you're doing anything else with the PCB.. Please wear some nitrile rubber gloves to protect the pcb from static. The reason I say this is that..Unfortunately I have never managed to repair or help anyone repair one of these vacuums once failed, and I have had lots of people contact me about them. I fear that the PCBs and components on these boards are very sensitive to even the smallest amount of static charge. So once the PCBs have been touched they rarely power-up properly again. I even killed my own vacuum whilst trying to help somebody else to test specific voltages :( Please disconnect the batteries! Otherwise I fear that a new fuse will just blow again. I think I would start by checking for shorted transistors/MOSFETS etc on the PCB with a multimeter. Regarding any silastic or PCB conformal coating on the board.. If it's the thick rubber stuff, you can remove it carefully with a pick etc. If it's just a glossy conformal coating you should be able to solder through that, But beware of any fumes just in case the coating is something else. Hope this helps a bit Regards John
@@OrbiterElectronics Thanks for the reply John. The fuses arrived and I had another look at it, but it looks like you are right. This time I put the voltage meter in the small socket where the brush head power connects. Sure enough, it read 20V all the time . I think rather than risking messing up the board completely I'm just going to leave the brush cable disconnected at the board and use it as back up cleaner in the basement. Too bad. Not too worried about the £2 spent on the fuses, but I'll have to see if I can return the new brush head (about 80GBP!) to Bosch. Thanks again for the advise!
very good video plenty detailed info, our bosch althlet zoo is just over 2 years old and has just suffered a broken neck ! part of the main body, poor design I think ,my mrs could kill any vacuum cleaner, they probably do more miles than my car
@@Gultronics i fixed it by taking of handle and drilling plastic with 8mm drill to one side of the centre through the 2 plastic webs then put a 4 x 25 selftapper in perfect
John, thanks eversomuch for uploading this. Having similar problem. It just wont charge anymore. Ive taken it apart but cannot see if any fuzes are blown, how do you see that? Also, could it be the jack itself being damaged? It is connecting, and i have tried in other outlets, and with other chargers.. Pls help.
Hello mate, thanks for the kind comments 👍 I know you say you've tried other adaptors to charge the vacuum, but where they of the correct voltage? Assuming it's exactly the same vacuum, it's adaptor outputs 30v so an ordinary 12v or 5v charger that just has the same size jack wont work. You can test this with a multimeter. Regarding the fuses.. You can't actually SEE if the fuses are blown (Well not unless they've literally exploded.) You will need to check them with a multimeter too (in continuity mode.) The fuses are white & labelled F1 & F2 on the PCB, (you can see them at around the 5 min mark in the video if your not sure what they look like.) Hope that helps John
@@OrbiterElectronics youre welcome! Well worth it. So no they were not the correct voltage so thats why that did not work. Thing is a new charger is really expensive for these, surprisingly so. And I do not have a multimeter. So Ill have to get multimeter and then either the charger is broken or not. if yes buy new charger if no, throw vacuum? Or just go directly to plan C and buy new cheap-ass vacuum.
Hi I'm attempting to sort out the brush intermittently stopping .. your video confirms my thoughts about a wiring break .. I've removed the three screws holding the brush 'plate' .. but I'm damned if I can get it off !! ..is this another 'strong plastic clips issue' ??? Or am I missing a screw (so to speak 😲) .. thanks !
Hello Sarah.. If I can remember correctly, there are 7 screws that need removing to take the base plate off. If you brush/dust/blow out the underneath of the brush housing, you'll likely get rid of some of the dust bunnies which often obscure the screws holes. So.. There should be the 2 visible torx screws which it sound like you've removed already. Then there are another 4 screws.. These are underneath the thin rubber strip, the rubber strip is only clipped-in, so can be popped out quite easily. Lastly there are another 2 screws, these are underneath the little rollers at the very front of the brush housing. Those rollers are clipped-in however they are often quite tight, so try a thin bladed screwdriver etc and lever one end of each roller upwards & they should pop up. You'll then see the 2 last screws. Hope this helps 👍
Hi, a new query, or rather a further query on the same topic. So far I have removed 8 screws; 4 which are in plain sight, two more under the removable rubber strip, and the two which are hidden under the front wheels, but the base plate still refuses to come away. It seems to be held very securely by something right at the front in the middle, where the plastic moulding is quite thin, and may well break if I give it any more than a gentle heave. I am trying to get at the drive belt in order to change it, as the cleaner has become exceedingly noisy due to what, I think is a slack, worn drive belt, or at least I think that is the problem. Any advice would be welcome.
Thanks for the video, John. You mentioned adding a loom around the wires going to the brush head motor through the plastic elbow. That's a great idea to protect those fragile wires. But i am stumped on how to dismantle the corrugated plastic hose and the elbow joint to expose the wires. It looks like the elbow joint should pop open by pushing in some tabs, but mine isn't budging. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Not sure I understand what you mean there buddy. I didn't actually disassemble the bottom hinged joint or remove the upper end of the corrugated hose. I just removed the whole bottom plate of the hoover which releases the hoses bottom end, and got access to the motor wires that way. I de-soldered the wires from the motor and added a new piece if I remember correctly. I'm actually not sure how the upper corrugated plastic hose fits in to be honest. I still haven't wrapped the wires up apart from a little insulation tape, and the hoover is still going strong.
@@OrbiterElectronics Annoyingly, my motor wires have snapped just where they enter the corrugated elbow joint. I need to dismantle the elbow in order to fix/replace the motor wires. Struggling to take it apart. Was hoping that you may have already mastered it?
@@farid0987 Well.. I have mastered it now :) Just been taking my Athlet apart again to see how it's assembled. So I need to send you a pic or two. Just head up to my channel name and click on it. Then go to the 'About' heading and send me an email so that I can get back to you. Cheers John
These vacuums are great initially, but for some reason once they go wrong they're normally finished. This is why in a lot of my responses to people I mention firmware, as I believe there is an issue with it on these devices which when triggered.. It renders the vacuum mostly faulty. Which is sad because they are great when working. We even bought another one, but itf it started playing up I wouldn't even bother trying to repair it again, unless it was something obvious. Cheers John
Just been given one 7ish years old all is okay however never had a filter wash or exchange was blowing dust out I’ve just ordered two filters my question is the air outlet is there a filter in there to be washed or changed
As far as I know there are just the main pod/tank filters, and a flat white filter behind the battery pack. You can see it in this exploded view (the filter is marked: 0103) www.mamlux.eu/spare-parts-bosch/spare-parts-vacuum-cleaners-bosch/spare-parts-vacuum-cleaner-bosch-bch6ath2501/filter---c-01032018-05-14-07-14-11631191210-detail
@@OrbiterElectronics thank you for the I woke up early and was wondering I asked you the question and carried on looking on TH-cam I found out how to do it the filter is now washed and drying on the radiator. New fitters coming from Amazon tomorrow. Not a clue or my brother in law managed he said was blowing dust out . Will now live again hope he doesn’t ask for it back
After disassembling mine, upon reassembly the motor is stuck on full regardless of switch position. Spinning brush works as normal. Does anyone have any ideas what could cause this? I just remounted loose power connector.
Sounds like you have created a short circuit to the motor somewhere.. Or the switch mechanism is jammed etc. Likely when you refitted the power connector or reassembling. If you did any soldering.. first check that you didn't inadvertently create a short circuit between any connector pins etc. Also check that no wires etc have become bare or jammed and shorted between the plastic housing of the vacuum.
I’m here again I washed the exhaust filter replaced the bottom filters The previous owner only used on turbo X1 used battery too quickly I can’t switch on turbo now it sticks and suggestions
If its sticking on the lower level.. I can only guess that perhaps a switching transistor or part of its associated circuitry has failed. I've known a lot of these things totally fail when fiddled with electronically, so I would perhaps suggest just using it on the level that is working now.
Hi I have a bosch athlet 25.2v. I replaced the battery but now the problem is it doesn't charge. The light comes on blinking for a couple of times and then it's off. I tested the slow blow fuse and nothing is broken. It just doesn't charge. I used the same replacement battery
Sorry for very late reply Steven. Unfortunately the problem could be many things.. From the replacement batts having been LOW on voltage or faulty and not starting to charge properly, to static damage to the PCB. As I believe these boards are very sensitive to static. I'm sure I killed one of my own Athlets just by touching/testing it's PCB. I had no blown fuses or failed components & good batts.. but it totally refused to work. I wish I could point you in a specific direction to help here but I can't, I've even been asking others including Bosch for any advice regarding this issue but I didn't get anywhere. And this is why I think either these boards are very susceptible to static, Or they have a firmware issue that is perhaps leaving many with dead vacuums 😡 I would still initially check that the charger is outputting the correct voltage (this will be printed on its casing), and if you're able to.. put it under a slight load as well to make sure it's actually working.. After that, I'm afraid you're in the same boat as I was.. Testing components looking for failed parts. Sorry I can't be of more help.
Hello John Can you help with my athlet, seems to be taking a charge but no output from the board to the motor. ?? I have got a second spares board which seems to do the same, if you have any idea's It would be much appreciated Kind regards Graham Ps I am powering and running the battery pack and connected board unmounted from the plastic housing.
Thanks for this! Mine keeps quitting after 30 secs to 2 mins when not moved straight after a charge. Neck seems fine so I’ve been after changing the 18650s. This has got me much closer lol. A tad puzzled as to where I go from here.
Hi William.. Firstly just double check that its not the connection block between the neck and body thats perhaps giving you an intermittent connection. If it dying like a battery though you're likely right in that the cells are finished. I can't really help you with the battery replacement bit, as I've not done that. But no doubt with tools and some perseverance it can be done. Just be very careful with the batteries if you intend to re-solder new ones in, if your unsure though I would advise against a DIY job. Or do it outside making sure you wear safety gloves and eye protection etc. Cheers John
John - Orbiter thanks very much. I’ve checked the neck. This happens when I don’t move the unit at all and the flashing low batt starts when it’s stood still. I’ve got the motor assembly out thanks to your video!! And see that they are all soldered in. I’d have a go if they weren’t ALSO seemingly spot welded on the 18650’s too lol! So sod that for DIY dad time blowing up in the garden. The Mrs will think I’ve put the lights up earlier than usual. Oh well. I’ll have a look around blackpool for repairs as Bosch are ridiculous. I got mine £120 in store with Tesco offers. The battery replacement alone they quoted £99! So I’ll ask around. Many many thanks! :)
@@Mr_Gadge .. Hahaaa 👍 If the unit still shows or acts like it charges up properly, it does sound like a dead or faulty cell in the cluster. You could test the cell pack voltage at the output terminals.. When charged the battery cluster should read around 25volts. Much less and a dead cell or a worn pack is likely. If you do have 25volts, perhaps have a look for visually bad components on the PCB, or dodgy solder joints/pins etc. £99 is a little expensive for a repair, however I guess 7 decent cells would cost around £45 to begin with.
@@OrbiterElectronics it can work fine straight after a charge for up to 5 mins, then stops. Switch it back on again, and it'll last up to a minute, battery flashing light soon comes on and it stops. Had a look round the PCB and gave it a canned air dust. Can't see any. I'll try meter the cells thanks! -Didn't think it would function fully for a few mins if a cell was down.
Hello John, have you ever replaced the battery cells on this? I read comments there will be a charge issue after, like the board don’t recognized the new cells.
Hi.. I have changed cell packs on a couple of these vacuums, however only 1 worked correctly afterwards. These units seem very temperamental and fail easily once the main PCB has been disturbed (IMHO they're very sensitive to static.) The units that only fail shorting then blowing SMD fuses are often repairable. However ones that have had the PCBs unplugged & handled always seem to be problematic afterwards.
@@OrbiterElectronics thanks for reply! I’ll keep that in mind. I’ll give it a try and order some cells. I will demagnetize the pcb when done. that’s some good advice otherwise it’s useless after replacement
Hello, my battery is running for 3 minutes at full speed, and I want to bypass the battery with a surce 25v 10A (by cable). Can you tell me, how can I do this and not damage the PCB. If I cut all battery-PCB wire and then solder + and - from the surce is OK ? Thank You!
You could certainly try it but make sure you connect it clup correctly. Also be very carefully handling or soldering the PCB. The chips on these boards are well known for being very sensitive to static, so discharge/ground yourself first, otherwise you could kill the board. I know as I've managed to do it before 😕
Hi, my fuse has definitely blown, but I’m also not getting any continuity from the one next to it. Is this normal or should I replace that as well and have you any idea what it is?
Hi.. These devices definitely seem to have issues especially when older. Before you change any fuses and turn the vacuum back on, please remove the lower brush cover and make sure that the wires leading to the motor are NOT severed or shorting anywhere. As this is one of the reasons the fuses normally pop. If everything looks good you can certainly try replacing the fuses. But just to let you know in advance.. I have had a couple of these units where static has damaged the on-board micro-controller and rendered them dead. I have even tried switching micro-controllers on one unit hoping for a result however I fear the micro I switched with had also suffered the same fate. So it's all a bit hit and miss unfortunately with these things. It's a shame really as they are so easy to manage and use. Hope you have better luck with yours 👍
Hi! I cleansed my filter in water and didn't dry it completely, it wouldn't stop so it went full power for one hour and then stopped. Now i can't turn it back on, got any ideas? Iv'e already rinsed the board with isopropanol.
Hi. Obviously water has got in and caused a short circuit. The problem now is that the unit has run until it's batteries have been totally exhausted. Hopefully the cells circuit protection will have protected the cells from dropping too low which is good, but the cells must be tested & charged up again to make sure they're ok. The cells should all be a suitable voltage e.g.. not below 2.5v per cell. If the battery voltages are very low, then they may have been damaged beyond repair :( Also the vacuums circuits will need testing as something has caused the unit to run continuously. This could be something as simple as a wet switch, plug socket etc, OR it could be a shorted component or short on the main PCB itself. So unfortunately you're going to have to either have this checked out if you can't do it yourself OR go through the circuitry step by step to figure out where the problem is. Please be aware that these PCBs are often prone to failure, even just handling alone can kill them due to static charge (I''ve done it 😧 ) and replacement firmware is unavailable for the affected IC. This then renders the irreparable :(
I have one of these it is Torx Security, it has a hole inside. I don't remember it's size and I didn't have that type but I was able to open them with slotted driver! Cheers.
If you are happy with disassembling and testing items like this, I would advise that you may need to take apart the top of the vacuum as in the video, & also disassemble the lower brush head assembly to access the motor. Check that the wires going to the motor are not shorted or broken (this happens a lot as the wires down there are twisted all the time whilst in use.) Also with a multimeter and the vacuum handle connected, that you have continuity between the wires at the top of the vacuum down to the motor. Also check the two small SMD fuses on the PCB, if there has been a wire short down by the motor it will blow the SMD fuse/s on the PCB also.
Hi.. You'll need an extended shank torx driver bit (IIRC a tx10 or tx15.) A standard torx bit won't reach the screw head. Also please be EXTREMELY careful to discharge yourself once you have the vacuum open.. The IC chips on these boards seem extremely sensitive to static charge. I even killed my own vacuum just touching the PCB and ended up buying another one.
Thanks Graeme. I'm sorry but I can't remember exactly the size (from memory I'd guess a Tx10 or Tx15) but I don't have a unit handy to double check. Please note that they are NOT standard Torx Bits. They are 'SECURITY TORX BITS'. The security part means that each bit has a special hole drilled up into the end of each bit, which accommodates the pin in each screw head. If you have to buy a set of Security Torx Bits.. get the long ones, and the ones with the rounded shank. Most of the cheaper ones have a hexagonal shaped shank which often doesn't fit down narrow holes. Here's a couple of links to Amazon & the type I would recommend. tinyurl.com/y8c2nya8 tinyurl.com/ybhgukao
Hi,mine was stop working when i put to charge nothing hapens when turn on nothing, i was replaced batteryes end now when i turn him on only the led came on and the motors not working. And still not charging when is pluged on adapter. The adapter provides 29.5v but no led come on. is it posible that the board is in fault, or is it posible that fuse? Thanks I was just mesure the output on board for the main motor and its shows 0V
Its always worth checking the fuses its. There is two of them on the PCB. To be honest these PCBs fail very regularly and they're not worth repairing in most cases, especially if the board needs replacing.
Hi John, Thanks for the video. I have replaced the cells in my Athlet vacuum, and now it will not charge. Before I completely assembled the machine I plugged the charger in and the LEDs lit up normally. Having completed assembly they are now dead. I have stripped it back down but can't see any issues, and there is 23.5V across the whole 7 cells. There is still approx 28V coming from the charger itself. Any ideas? Regards, Simon
Hi Simon, unfortunately it sounds like you may have the dreaded ESD issue, which I believe I've inflicted on two vacuums. And as far as I know there's no fix for it. It seems that even just touching the pcb, static can kill the on-board micro controller. I initially opened one of my vacuums to help a friend diagnose his, and even though I know for a fact I didn't phisically damage anything, I must have inadvertently shocked the micro. I even tried transferring the micro controller over from another board, but no luck here either. I got some charge lights to appear but the vacuum still wasn't charging as it should. So unfortunately I just had to salvage the batteries. Sorry I'm not able to offer any help here :(
@@OrbiterElectronics Thanks for the quick reply John. If I charge the batteries by by-passing the main circuit, will the vacuum itself work do you think? I guess I may have nothing to loose in trying. Simon
@@simonlansdowne9888 It seems that once the micro controller is damaged on these devices the whole system is kaput. I was considering perhaps re-flashing the chips firmware initially but I've no source for a known good firmware file, and Bosch didn't get back to me following an email. You could possibly get the vacuum to somehow work again.. But please remember that modifying anything that uses the likes of 18650 cells has risks, so care has to be taken when charging etc, especially if done without a specific charger, as the cells need balance charging really! The original vacuums circuitry did this. However If you have an 18650 'balance charger' or a dedicated charger then that's fine. But charging cells individually will reduce cell life/efficiency. If you do decide to try and use the vacuum again. You may need to fit a heavier switch, depending on the max current capability of the original, then run suitable wires down to the motor via an adjustable step down (buck) converter etc, you can pick these up for about £8. As the motor may just burn out if fed with 28v directly. I can't remember all the specifics now. John
@@OrbiterElectronics Hi John, You are correct, the whole thing is now dead. I charged the batteries separately overnight, re-assemebled and the lights all come on, it shows as fully charged etc., but neither motor runs. Very disappointing. Batteries have a limited lifespan so to design a vacuum that needs such an expensive component to be bought whole to replace the batteries is a very poor design from an economic and environmental perspective. Not impressed by Bosch on this. Most of my power tool are Bosch and I have always liked their kit before, but not on this one. Thanks for your help and advice, Simon
I've always trusted Bosch too Simon, normally a good brand, but as you say.. not in this particular case. It's a shame as these vacuums are/were soo easy to grab and use too. We were looking to replacing ours with a similar one from Currys, but the alternatives available didn't seem as well balanced and are heavier than the Athlete, so we ended up reverting to our older Bosch vacuum, which works great but weighs a ton. Sorry I couldn't be of more help Simon Cheers John
Hi,my problem is that it charge for a 5 min. and switch off. I can clean for few min and the level of battery go off.Can you let me know why this keeps happening please?
The problem could be quite a few things. If you have a multimeter I would advise you firstly check that the charger is working properly.. if it is, it could be that the batteries are degraded (especially if the vacuum is a few years old) Batteries do not hold a full charge forever, so their run time can get shorter and shorter over time as they degrade, sometimes they will only hold a partial charge, as in your case. If the problem is the batteries I think you can get new battery packs from Bosch, but these tend to be very expensive, almost the price of a new vacuum.
I have a problem with my hoover.it's work with charger 30V--500mA, I plugged it into a 30V ___3 A charger, and it no charges the problem in an electronic circuit. What am I to do pleas help me? Does someone sell a circuit electronic to replace it?😭
Was the polarity correct on the DC jack you used? e.g. Centre Positive. If the DC jack you used was Centre Negative you may have damaged components on the PCB. You can 'sometimes' pick up parts for these vacuums on Ebay, however if you manage to find new parts they tend to be very expensive, and on the other hand unfortunately used parts are NOT guaranteed to be good 🙁
How do you know the batteries are ok? If the vacuum is couple of years old or more the batts could still be the issue as often they charge but don't retain capacity.
Smashing fix john :-D, lucky it had a pcb fuse :-D You do enjoy attacking yourself with subtitles lol, "This bloke is crap, he tells lies." or something like that ha ha :-D Can't beat a good sense of humor :-D. Yes i've been there with that type of vac john. i did the wire repair on a identical looking vac and the wire broke in the same place lol. I was lucky though, there was no short between wires :-D. I lifted the sprung power connector and added an extention to the down wire, then pulled the down wire down to solder on to the motor. It will break again one day, it was/is a stupid design, much like the door/hatch rubber gators full of wires on cars, bend bend bend ... snap snap lol. (Done those too lol) This comment is turning into a book, sorry mate :-(
Thanks Harvey 👍 Yes I was happy to see those fuses, made for a fast repair. Yea I love the subtitles, hehe, they save me time in many cases as having to splitting & match audio/video takes ages, especially if there are many edits. Plus I'd rather include video parts instead of chopping'em out if possible 😉 I don't think these things are made to last are they Harv, being that their wiring is so poorly implemented down to the brush head. Gives us something to do though aye 😁 Look.. You've made me write a book now too 😉 LOL. Cheers friend John
It's all good fun :-D Your subtitles are funny, so it adds to the video :-). Some tubers show there mistakes and that's smashing, it stops you thinking they are perfect, and perhaps we learn something too :-). On videos where nothing goes wrong or bolts just come out too easy, i know the item has been prepped, not real, shame :-( Just my opinion of cause :-)
@@mrcmountain6342 Have you found any solution? I have a similar problem. No charge but when in press the button it lit's up and starts flashing as if it has battery 0.
Hi @Orbiter Electronics, thank you for your video. I have the same problem. The device won't charge anymore, but when turning it on the lights for low battery are on. I see around 25 voltage and I think the cells you mentioned F1 and F2 are done.. Not sure what else to try, any ideas? Thanks from Germany!
I may have a bit of time later so I will perhaps take a look at my vacuums PCB Test Points to see what they read, then you can compare yours. In the mean time perhaps you could have a close look at your PCBs components.. Check if any are burned or smell burned. Have a close look at the main ICs (U1 & U4) check their tops surfaces for cracks or small burn holes. Also.. if you know how... test the main transistors (marked on the PCB.. Q15, Q16, Q17) for open/short circuits. Please contact me next time via the 'ABOUT' section at the top of my TH-cam channel.. This way I can send any images easier via email. Cheers John
Hello Robert, I'm sorry but unfortunately I'm not able to take on external repairs at present. Also, as your issue is with the charging of the unit (unless it just a failure of the wall adaptor..) It's likely that it has failed due to a problem with the main control PCB or it's IC chip, this controls charging too. The IC can seemingly fail on these vacuums for no apparent reason and once failed it's not possible to repair them. This is because there is no firmware available to be able to re-flash the chip with it's software. So yes you could in theory just buy/replace the main IC chip, however it would be useless without it's control programme/software. Since making the video we have had our Athlet fail again due to this seemingly super sensitive IC issue, I even managed to get hold of a second-hand PCB (with main IC chip) however this had suffered the same failure, and wouldn't charge :( Regards John
Do anyone knows what is that black square 4-pin connector approx between ATmega and BQ BMS chip? You can see it on this video, Black, with black silicone at base. Is it USB to ATmega? Or what? I'm currently trying to repair my 32.4V (9-cell) version of Athlet. Back box... Help with any information about controller board would be much appreciated!
Agreed mate... Not only should the cells or packs be replaceable for stuff like this, but it seems to me that the IC's on these things is soooo susceptible to static damage that you virtually can't touch the PCB for fear of damaging the firmware IC. I only know as I've killed a couple of them :(
@@OrbiterElectronics Haha, tell me about it, I think I just fried one yesterday 😂 Oh well, might just get a spare from evilbay, as there seems to be so many of them there.
Be careful there mate.. Only because I did the same thing & bought a couple of replacement PCBs from ebay. They were supposedly good, however they were DOA 😠 That was a year or more ago though so perhaps you'll have better luck 🤞
@@OrbiterElectronics Good news, got a spare half broken hoover with good PCB, swapped battery and case and all is well. I found two things though. If you connect the battery in the wrong order, the atmega chip will block the controller and board is instantly unusable and the second thing I found is that Bosch intentionally degrade these through software! The hoover I got only lasted 5-10 min on full charge, yet I've tested each cell individually now and each and every single cell still have 85% original factory capacity and all cells are within 30mah of each other! Will never buy a bosch tool ever again, that is planned obsolescence at its worst!
@@katar0t0 Good to hear you've got yours working again. And interesting what you found regarding the battery connection. If I see another one I'll remember that. Although the last one I killed was my own vacuum, and the batteries weren't disconnected. I was just testing some voltages on the PCB whilst trying to assist someone who'd asked for help :( I never used to think planned obsolescence was a real (Or legal) thing.. but it seems it is. Big business control aye.. 😡 cheers mate John
Great quality video.👍I found it very interesting.
My Bosch Athlet wasn't that old when the batteries started to fade. I very seldom used Turbo. If I did, the batteries would drain within like 2-3 seconds and it would need a new charge.
The next thing to happen was that the red sensor light came on and stayed on. If I plug it in to charge, it starts charging and after about 20 seconds, the red light comes on, stays on and stops the charging process. I thought it was a filter warning. I've cleaned the filter but it didn't help. Although, having said that, I didn't put the filter in the washing machine like they state you can in the user manual for a serious clean of the filter. Because it won't charge, it is basically useless to me now.
We were never happy with the Bosch Athlet. We both complained that it just pushed particles further forward instead of sucking them up - especially larger particles on hard floors. Your video highlights another design issue with this device that thankfully I didn't encounter.
I've bought a Dyson. Yes it is much more expensive but it is far superior in every way. The wife and I are much more satisfied. We will see how long the battery on the Dyson lasts 🤞In the meantime, my advice would be to steer clear of these vacuum's. They are nothing but trouble and the lifetime of the battery pack is ridiculously short.
Nice fix John. My wife likes that I can fix stuff around the house too. As a famous philosopher (Red Green) once said "if the women don't find you handsome they should find you handy" ..... LOL . On another and sadder note we have lost Bear. He was holding his own but had another stroke and couldn't move. There was nothing the vet could do for him so we had to say goodbye. Just about tore our hearts out. Regards, Dave
Hi Dave, Really sorry to hear about Bear my friend 😢. It's a terrible time loosing such a great companion. I hope he is in an awsome place now though, perhaps playing happily and having fun with our Sophie & Heidi 👍. I'm holding out that I'll be able to see them again sometime in future.
Take care mate
John
Me too my friend, me too. Dave
It's amazing how many things get tossed out because of simple component and fuse failure. New sub 👍
Hi, yes many folk seem programmed these days just to go and buy new, repair is often overlooked. Thank you for the sub 👍
I'm trying to remove the plastic case so I can replace the batteries - and this video helped me greatly. Thanks.
You're very welcome, glad it helped 👍
Excellent. I've seen other videos showing the failure of those two wires but nice to know what happens if they short when they break. Both my mother and I have Bosch Athlets (but not the zoo models) and although I'm gentle with mine, I envision I might have to open one of them up at some stage. Hers is getting on to nearly 4 years old I think. Apparently the handles break easily as well so it seems the design could definitely do with some 'toughening up', but it's a decent vacuum and she loves hers. I was expecting to have to shell out for a Dyson when I took her to look at stick vacuums but she preferred the Athlet due to the weight being more distributed down the handle. She found it easier to manoeuvre. Only problem is it's fatter and doesn't get under my bed. Oh well still have the old traditional type for occasional use under there and other nooks and crannies. Thanks very much for the tips.
Thanks.. Yea we love the Athlets too. Nice nimble vacuum with enough power for a decent clean too. We chose this one after using Dyson uprights for a while, but they were becoming too heavy. I still love my little Dyson DC34, it's old now but still works great.
Cheers, John
Removing the cover was my issue. Cheers for showing how to do it
Thanks Richard.. Glad the video helped 👍
nice repair John, it's nice they actually put a fuse in tbh
Thanks Mark 👍.. Yes the fuses were a nice surprise, and made for a quick repair too.
Cheers mate
John
nice! I hate plastic clips, they are always frustrating, thanks for sharing!
Agreed.. they're a total PITA my friend 👍
Cheers
John
It can be quite a challenge to dismantle many modern devices as the designers often employ the use of hidden clips as well as screws, making it a bit of a guessing game! There's nothing worse than wondering why a cover won't come off, even though you've removed all the screws, and then having to potentially risk breaking something as the hidden retaining clips hold it in place incredibly strongly. I sometimes wonder whether it's strictly necessary to bother making it with screws if the plastic parts grip so tightly!
I'm of the same thinking Pete.. I don't see the point at all of using the type of clips that just break off. Especially when it would be no effort at all for manuracturers to replace the things with say.. a simple locating sliding lug or tabs etc which are secure once the screws are tightened. These are also perfectly suitable for preventing vibration etc
It really is as if manufacturers make these things to be thrown away as soon as theres a problem, no matter how small.
Thanks for the comments friend 👍
John
Pete Allum b(6
Got the same Bosh vacuum cleaner, but it doesn't fully charge anymore. I think the battery is failing. Thanks for the video, it gave me knowledge and I'll try to open and replace the battery :)
Yes if it's a few years old It's likely the battery pack on it's way out. Please do be very careful though if you go inside the unit, as I believe the main chip on this vacuums PCB is easily killed with static charge (ESD) I even killed my own vacuum like this and ended up with a new one as I couldn't get a replacement PCB.
@@OrbiterElectronics yeah, saw you mentioned it a few comments below. I'll discharge myself beforehand
@@Amstroid Ah ok 👍️ .. They really are sensitive. I know for a fact that I didn't do anything to physically damage my PCB, as I was just taking voltage readings for somebody else. I was even ultra careful not to short pins etc whilst testing, but even so the board was dead when I tried to fire it up again.
Thanks, need to take ours apart soon to replace the cells. Do you find yours collects grit in the corrugated hose at the bottom so that when you pick up the vacuum it all drops out on the carpet?
Hi Steve.. I know it does get quite a bit of grit collected in that corrugated tube, however I can't say I've noticed much falling out when its picked up. I would noticed that too I think as the vacuum is stored on a hard surface sometimes. I can force some of the grit to fall out though If I rattle the hoover around a bit though or it happens to bang against the cupboard doors when I need it. Not loads though.
Cheers
John
Would you please give me the spesifications of the battery.
Thank you
@@ruchancakaloglu .. Hi, I'm actually not 100% sure, however they looked like 18650 cells, and if there are six of them fitted in the Bosch Athlet vacuum, then this would make up the 25.2v indicated on the front of the cleaner.
Thank you for the fast reply :)
I dismantled the athlet now and I found the batteries
SAMSUNG SDI
ICR18650-22P
1D92
But in our country I can find 1E92 or 1C92
Can I use them?
Thanks Ruchan. .
RUCHAN CAKALOGLU l
Thank you John, that’s appreciated! Colin
Your welcome Collin 👍
Thanks for the video! Saved me a lot of time especially with the plastic clips. I bought a new brush head, and then was disappointed when it didn't start working. I opened it up and tested the fuse which had no continuity. I also tried shorting across the fuse and sure enough the new brush motor came to life. So I'm purchasing some new fuses. Just wondering though, I was a bit surprised that if I short out the connection with the power switch off, the motor still starts! (by the way, my circuit board is covered in a clear thermoplastic??? protection which will make soldering messy :( )
Hi Philip, I was going to say you're welcome, However.. I fear you may have wasted your money on fuses there my friend. If the motor starts when you short the fuse (Switch in OFF position) there is perhaps another component in the circuitry that has shorted (and this is allowing the motor to start with fuse circuit closed/shorted.) This may have been the reason the fuse blew in the first place.
If you're doing anything else with the PCB.. Please wear some nitrile rubber gloves to protect the pcb from static. The reason I say this is that..Unfortunately I have never managed to repair or help anyone repair one of these vacuums once failed, and I have had lots of people contact me about them. I fear that the PCBs and components on these boards are very sensitive to even the smallest amount of static charge. So once the PCBs have been touched they rarely power-up properly again. I even killed my own vacuum whilst trying to help somebody else to test specific voltages :(
Please disconnect the batteries! Otherwise I fear that a new fuse will just blow again. I think I would start by checking for shorted transistors/MOSFETS etc on the PCB with a multimeter.
Regarding any silastic or PCB conformal coating on the board.. If it's the thick rubber stuff, you can remove it carefully with a pick etc. If it's just a glossy conformal coating you should be able to solder through that, But beware of any fumes just in case the coating is something else.
Hope this helps a bit
Regards
John
@@OrbiterElectronics Thanks for the reply John. The fuses arrived and I had another look at it, but it looks like you are right. This time I put the voltage meter in the small socket where the brush head power connects. Sure enough, it read 20V all the time . I think rather than risking messing up the board completely I'm just going to leave the brush cable disconnected at the board and use it as back up cleaner in the basement. Too bad. Not too worried about the £2 spent on the fuses, but I'll have to see if I can return the new brush head (about 80GBP!) to Bosch. Thanks again for the advise!
@@philipsmith68 No problem Philip, sorry to hear it didn't work as hoped.
John
very good video plenty detailed info, our bosch althlet zoo is just over 2 years old and has just suffered a broken neck ! part of the main body, poor design I think ,my mrs could kill any vacuum cleaner, they probably do more miles than my car
Thanks Thomas, yes I think they're a bit on the flimsy side too. They're a really nice light vacuum otherwise though 👍
mine snapped too - taped it up with fibrefix!
@@Gultronics i fixed it by taking of handle and drilling plastic with 8mm drill to one side of the centre through the 2 plastic webs then put a 4 x 25 selftapper in perfect
Very, very good. Thank you
John, thanks eversomuch for uploading this. Having similar problem.
It just wont charge anymore. Ive taken it apart but cannot see if any fuzes are blown, how do you see that?
Also, could it be the jack itself being damaged? It is connecting, and i have tried in other outlets, and with other chargers.. Pls help.
Hello mate, thanks for the kind comments 👍
I know you say you've tried other adaptors to charge the vacuum, but where they of the correct voltage? Assuming it's exactly the same vacuum, it's adaptor outputs 30v so an ordinary 12v or 5v charger that just has the same size jack wont work. You can test this with a multimeter.
Regarding the fuses.. You can't actually SEE if the fuses are blown (Well not unless they've literally exploded.) You will need to check them with a multimeter too (in continuity mode.) The fuses are white & labelled F1 & F2 on the PCB, (you can see them at around the 5 min mark in the video if your not sure what they look like.)
Hope that helps
John
@@OrbiterElectronics youre welcome! Well worth it. So no they were not the correct voltage so thats why that did not work. Thing is a new charger is really expensive for these, surprisingly so. And I do not have a multimeter. So Ill have to get multimeter and then either the charger is broken or not. if yes buy new charger if no, throw vacuum?
Or just go directly to plan C and buy new cheap-ass vacuum.
Mrc Mountain j
Hi
I'm attempting to sort out the brush intermittently stopping .. your video confirms my thoughts about a wiring break .. I've removed the three screws holding the brush 'plate' .. but I'm damned if I can get it off !! ..is this another 'strong plastic clips issue' ??? Or am I missing a screw (so to speak 😲) .. thanks !
Hello Sarah.. If I can remember correctly, there are 7 screws that need removing to take the base plate off. If you brush/dust/blow out the underneath of the brush housing, you'll likely get rid of some of the dust bunnies which often obscure the screws holes.
So.. There should be the 2 visible torx screws which it sound like you've removed already.
Then there are another 4 screws.. These are underneath the thin rubber strip, the rubber strip is only clipped-in, so can be popped out quite easily.
Lastly there are another 2 screws, these are underneath the little rollers at the very front of the brush housing. Those rollers are clipped-in however they are often quite tight, so try a thin bladed screwdriver etc and lever one end of each roller upwards & they should pop up. You'll then see the 2 last screws.
Hope this helps 👍
Hi, a new query, or rather a further query on the same topic. So far I have removed 8 screws; 4 which are in plain sight, two more under the removable rubber strip, and the two which are hidden under the front wheels, but the base plate still refuses to come away. It seems to be held very securely by something right at the front in the middle, where the plastic moulding is quite thin, and may well break if I give it any more than a gentle heave. I am trying to get at the drive belt in order to change it, as the cleaner has become exceedingly noisy due to what, I think is a slack, worn drive belt, or at least I think that is the problem. Any advice would be welcome.
Thanks for the video, John.
You mentioned adding a loom around the wires going to the brush head motor through the plastic elbow. That's a great idea to protect those fragile wires. But i am stumped on how to dismantle the corrugated plastic hose and the elbow joint to expose the wires. It looks like the elbow joint should pop open by pushing in some tabs, but mine isn't budging. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Not sure I understand what you mean there buddy. I didn't actually disassemble the bottom hinged joint or remove the upper end of the corrugated hose. I just removed the whole bottom plate of the hoover which releases the hoses bottom end, and got access to the motor wires that way. I de-soldered the wires from the motor and added a new piece if I remember correctly.
I'm actually not sure how the upper corrugated plastic hose fits in to be honest. I still haven't wrapped the wires up apart from a little insulation tape, and the hoover is still going strong.
@@OrbiterElectronics Annoyingly, my motor wires have snapped just where they enter the corrugated elbow joint. I need to dismantle the elbow in order to fix/replace the motor wires. Struggling to take it apart. Was hoping that you may have already mastered it?
@@farid0987 Well.. I have mastered it now :) Just been taking my Athlet apart again to see how it's assembled. So I need to send you a pic or two. Just head up to my channel name and click on it. Then go to the 'About' heading and send me an email so that I can get back to you.
Cheers
John
Great video! Mine lasts for approx. 1 minute on setting 3 and then dies. all batteries show 4.03V when fully charged. Strange.
These vacuums are great initially, but for some reason once they go wrong they're normally finished. This is why in a lot of my responses to people I mention firmware, as I believe there is an issue with it on these devices which when triggered.. It renders the vacuum mostly faulty. Which is sad because they are great when working. We even bought another one, but itf it started playing up I wouldn't even bother trying to repair it again, unless it was something obvious.
Cheers
John
Just been given one 7ish years old all is okay however never had a filter wash or exchange was blowing dust out I’ve just ordered two filters my question is the air outlet is there a filter in there to be washed or changed
As far as I know there are just the main pod/tank filters, and a flat white filter behind the battery pack.
You can see it in this exploded view (the filter is marked: 0103)
www.mamlux.eu/spare-parts-bosch/spare-parts-vacuum-cleaners-bosch/spare-parts-vacuum-cleaner-bosch-bch6ath2501/filter---c-01032018-05-14-07-14-11631191210-detail
@@OrbiterElectronics thank you for the I woke up early and was wondering I asked you the question and carried on looking on TH-cam I found out how to do it the filter is now washed and drying on the radiator. New fitters coming from Amazon tomorrow. Not a clue or my brother in law managed he said was blowing dust out . Will now live again hope he doesn’t ask for it back
After disassembling mine, upon reassembly the motor is stuck on full regardless of switch position. Spinning brush works as normal. Does anyone have any ideas what could cause this? I just remounted loose power connector.
Sounds like you have created a short circuit to the motor somewhere.. Or the switch mechanism is jammed etc. Likely when you refitted the power connector or reassembling.
If you did any soldering.. first check that you didn't inadvertently create a short circuit between any connector pins etc.
Also check that no wires etc have become bare or jammed and shorted between the plastic housing of the vacuum.
I’m here again I washed the exhaust filter replaced the bottom filters
The previous owner only used on turbo X1 used battery too quickly I can’t switch on turbo now it sticks and suggestions
If its sticking on the lower level.. I can only guess that perhaps a switching transistor or part of its associated circuitry has failed.
I've known a lot of these things totally fail when fiddled with electronically, so I would perhaps suggest just using it on the level that is working now.
@@OrbiterElectronics it’s mechanical so will manage
Hi I have a bosch athlet 25.2v. I replaced the battery but now the problem is it doesn't charge. The light comes on blinking for a couple of times and then it's off. I tested the slow blow fuse and nothing is broken. It just doesn't charge. I used the same replacement battery
Sorry for very late reply Steven. Unfortunately the problem could be many things.. From the replacement batts having been LOW on voltage or faulty and not starting to charge properly, to static damage to the PCB. As I believe these boards are very sensitive to static. I'm sure I killed one of my own Athlets just by touching/testing it's PCB. I had no blown fuses or failed components & good batts.. but it totally refused to work.
I wish I could point you in a specific direction to help here but I can't, I've even been asking others including Bosch for any advice regarding this issue but I didn't get anywhere. And this is why I think either these boards are very susceptible to static, Or they have a firmware issue that is perhaps leaving many with dead vacuums 😡
I would still initially check that the charger is outputting the correct voltage (this will be printed on its casing), and if you're able to.. put it under a slight load as well to make sure it's actually working.. After that, I'm afraid you're in the same boat as I was.. Testing components looking for failed parts.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
Hello John
Can you help with my athlet, seems to be taking a charge but no output from the board to the motor. ??
I have got a second spares board which seems to do the same, if you have any idea's It would be much appreciated
Kind regards
Graham
Ps I am powering and running the battery pack and connected board unmounted from the plastic housing.
Thanks for this! Mine keeps quitting after 30 secs to 2 mins when not moved straight after a charge. Neck seems fine so I’ve been after changing the 18650s. This has got me much closer lol. A tad puzzled as to where I go from here.
Hi William.. Firstly just double check that its not the connection block between the neck and body thats perhaps giving you an intermittent connection. If it dying like a battery though you're likely right in that the cells are finished.
I can't really help you with the battery replacement bit, as I've not done that. But no doubt with tools and some perseverance it can be done. Just be very careful with the batteries if you intend to re-solder new ones in, if your unsure though I would advise against a DIY job. Or do it outside making sure you wear safety gloves and eye protection etc.
Cheers
John
John - Orbiter thanks very much. I’ve checked the neck. This happens when I don’t move the unit at all and the flashing low batt starts when it’s stood still. I’ve got the motor assembly out thanks to your video!! And see that they are all soldered in. I’d have a go if they weren’t ALSO seemingly spot welded on the 18650’s too lol! So sod that for DIY dad time blowing up in the garden. The Mrs will think I’ve put the lights up earlier than usual. Oh well. I’ll have a look around blackpool for repairs as Bosch are ridiculous. I got mine £120 in store with Tesco offers. The battery replacement alone they quoted £99! So I’ll ask around. Many many thanks! :)
John - Orbiter ps I’ve also tried the shim in the neck just in case. No go.
@@Mr_Gadge .. Hahaaa 👍
If the unit still shows or acts like it charges up properly, it does sound like a dead or faulty cell in the cluster.
You could test the cell pack voltage at the output terminals.. When charged the battery cluster should read around 25volts. Much less and a dead cell or a worn pack is likely.
If you do have 25volts, perhaps have a look for visually bad components on the PCB, or dodgy solder joints/pins etc.
£99 is a little expensive for a repair, however I guess 7 decent cells would cost around £45 to begin with.
@@OrbiterElectronics it can work fine straight after a charge for up to 5 mins, then stops. Switch it back on again, and it'll last up to a minute, battery flashing light soon comes on and it stops. Had a look round the PCB and gave it a canned air dust. Can't see any. I'll try meter the cells thanks! -Didn't think it would function fully for a few mins if a cell was down.
Hello John, have you ever replaced the battery cells on this? I read comments there will be a charge issue after, like the board don’t recognized the new cells.
Hi.. I have changed cell packs on a couple of these vacuums, however only 1 worked correctly afterwards. These units seem very temperamental and fail easily once the main PCB has been disturbed (IMHO they're very sensitive to static.) The units that only fail shorting then blowing SMD fuses are often repairable. However ones that have had the PCBs unplugged & handled always seem to be problematic afterwards.
@@OrbiterElectronics thanks for reply! I’ll keep that in mind. I’ll give it a try and order some cells. I will demagnetize the pcb when done. that’s some good advice otherwise it’s useless after replacement
Hello, my battery is running for 3 minutes at full speed, and I want to bypass the battery with a surce 25v 10A (by cable). Can you tell me, how can I do this and not damage the PCB. If I cut all battery-PCB wire and then solder + and - from the surce is OK ? Thank You!
You could certainly try it but make sure you connect it clup correctly. Also be very carefully handling or soldering the PCB. The chips on these boards are well known for being very sensitive to static, so discharge/ground yourself first, otherwise you could kill the board. I know as I've managed to do it before 😕
Hi, my fuse has definitely blown, but I’m also not getting any continuity from the one next to it. Is this normal or should I replace that as well and have you any idea what it is?
Hi.. These devices definitely seem to have issues especially when older. Before you change any fuses and turn the vacuum back on, please remove the lower brush cover and make sure that the wires leading to the motor are NOT severed or shorting anywhere. As this is one of the reasons the fuses normally pop. If everything looks good you can certainly try replacing the fuses. But just to let you know in advance.. I have had a couple of these units where static has damaged the on-board micro-controller and rendered them dead. I have even tried switching micro-controllers on one unit hoping for a result however I fear the micro I switched with had also suffered the same fate. So it's all a bit hit and miss unfortunately with these things. It's a shame really as they are so easy to manage and use. Hope you have better luck with yours 👍
Hi!
I cleansed my filter in water and didn't dry it completely, it wouldn't stop so it went full power for one hour and then stopped. Now i can't turn it back on, got any ideas?
Iv'e already rinsed the board with isopropanol.
Hi. Obviously water has got in and caused a short circuit. The problem now is that the unit has run until it's batteries have been totally exhausted. Hopefully the cells circuit protection will have protected the cells from dropping too low which is good, but the cells must be tested & charged up again to make sure they're ok. The cells should all be a suitable voltage e.g.. not below 2.5v per cell. If the battery voltages are very low, then they may have been damaged beyond repair :(
Also the vacuums circuits will need testing as something has caused the unit to run continuously. This could be something as simple as a wet switch, plug socket etc, OR it could be a shorted component or short on the main PCB itself. So unfortunately you're going to have to either have this checked out if you can't do it yourself OR go through the circuitry step by step to figure out where the problem is.
Please be aware that these PCBs are often prone to failure, even just handling alone can kill them due to static charge (I''ve done it 😧 ) and replacement firmware is unavailable for the affected IC. This then renders the irreparable :(
Hi, can you tell me what size Torx pin key is needed to open the main screws? Thanks
I have one of these it is Torx Security, it has a hole inside. I don't remember it's size and I didn't have that type but I was able to open them with slotted driver! Cheers.
When i turn on the vacuum, the battery indication and sensor looks fine, but the motor doesn't work . What the problem can that be？ thank you.
If you are happy with disassembling and testing items like this, I would advise that you may need to take apart the top of the vacuum as in the video, & also disassemble the lower brush head assembly to access the motor.
Check that the wires going to the motor are not shorted or broken (this happens a lot as the wires down there are twisted all the time whilst in use.)
Also with a multimeter and the vacuum handle connected, that you have continuity between the wires at the top of the vacuum down to the motor. Also check the two small SMD fuses on the PCB, if there has been a wire short down by the motor it will blow the SMD fuse/s on the PCB also.
Did you use a torx SCREWDRIVER cus our set isn't long enough n I'm getting mighty peeved off
Hi.. You'll need an extended shank torx driver bit (IIRC a tx10 or tx15.) A standard torx bit won't reach the screw head. Also please be EXTREMELY careful to discharge yourself once you have the vacuum open.. The IC chips on these boards seem extremely sensitive to static charge. I even killed my own vacuum just touching the PCB and ended up buying another one.
Nice video John, what size bit is needed to strip it?
Thanks Graeme. I'm sorry but I can't remember exactly the size (from memory I'd guess a Tx10 or Tx15) but I don't have a unit handy to double check.
Please note that they are NOT standard Torx Bits. They are 'SECURITY TORX BITS'. The security part means that each bit has a special hole drilled up into the end of each bit, which accommodates the pin in each screw head.
If you have to buy a set of Security Torx Bits.. get the long ones, and the ones with the rounded shank. Most of the cheaper ones have a hexagonal shaped shank
which often doesn't fit down narrow holes.
Here's a couple of links to Amazon & the type I would recommend.
tinyurl.com/y8c2nya8
tinyurl.com/ybhgukao
@@OrbiterElectronics thanks, I have extracted 1 & drilled the pin off T20 seems to fit
Hi,mine was stop working when i put to charge nothing hapens when turn on nothing, i was replaced batteryes end now when i turn him on only the led came on and the motors not working. And still not charging when is pluged on adapter. The adapter provides 29.5v but no led come on. is it posible that the board is in fault, or is it posible that fuse? Thanks
I was just mesure the output on board for the main motor and its shows 0V
Its always worth checking the fuses its. There is two of them on the PCB.
To be honest these PCBs fail very regularly and they're not worth repairing in most cases, especially if the board needs replacing.
Hi John, Thanks for the video. I have replaced the cells in my Athlet vacuum, and now it will not charge. Before I completely assembled the machine I plugged the charger in and the LEDs lit up normally. Having completed assembly they are now dead. I have stripped it back down but can't see any issues, and there is 23.5V across the whole 7 cells. There is still approx 28V coming from the charger itself. Any ideas? Regards, Simon
Hi Simon, unfortunately it sounds like you may have the dreaded ESD issue, which I believe I've inflicted on two vacuums. And as far as I know there's no fix for it. It seems that even just touching the pcb, static can kill the on-board micro controller. I initially opened one of my vacuums to help a friend diagnose his, and even though I know for a fact I didn't phisically damage anything, I must have inadvertently shocked the micro. I even tried transferring the micro controller over from another board, but no luck here either. I got some charge lights to appear but the vacuum still wasn't charging as it should. So unfortunately I just had to salvage the batteries.
Sorry I'm not able to offer any help here :(
@@OrbiterElectronics Thanks for the quick reply John. If I charge the batteries by by-passing the main circuit, will the vacuum itself work do you think? I guess I may have nothing to loose in trying. Simon
@@simonlansdowne9888 It seems that once the micro controller is damaged on these devices the whole system is kaput. I was considering perhaps re-flashing the chips firmware initially but I've no source for a known good firmware file, and Bosch didn't get back to me following an email.
You could possibly get the vacuum to somehow work again.. But please remember that modifying anything that uses the likes of 18650 cells has risks, so care has to be taken when charging etc, especially if done without a specific charger, as the cells need balance charging really! The original vacuums circuitry did this. However If you have an 18650 'balance charger' or a dedicated charger then that's fine. But charging cells individually will reduce cell life/efficiency.
If you do decide to try and use the vacuum again. You may need to fit a heavier switch, depending on the max current capability of the original, then run suitable wires down to the motor via an adjustable step down (buck) converter etc, you can pick these up for about £8. As the motor may just burn out if fed with 28v directly. I can't remember all the specifics now.
John
@@OrbiterElectronics Hi John, You are correct, the whole thing is now dead. I charged the batteries separately overnight, re-assemebled and the lights all come on, it shows as fully charged etc., but neither motor runs. Very disappointing. Batteries have a limited lifespan so to design a vacuum that needs such an expensive component to be bought whole to replace the batteries is a very poor design from an economic and environmental perspective. Not impressed by Bosch on this. Most of my power tool are Bosch and I have always liked their kit before, but not on this one. Thanks for your help and advice, Simon
I've always trusted Bosch too Simon, normally a good brand, but as you say.. not in this particular case. It's a shame as these vacuums are/were soo easy to grab and use too.
We were looking to replacing ours with a similar one from Currys, but the alternatives available didn't seem as well balanced and are heavier than the Athlete, so we ended up reverting to our older Bosch vacuum, which works great but weighs a ton.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help Simon
Cheers
John
Hi,my problem is that it charge for a 5 min. and switch off. I can clean for few min and the level of battery go off.Can you let me know why this keeps happening please?
The problem could be quite a few things. If you have a multimeter I would advise you firstly check that the charger is working properly.. if it is, it could be that the batteries are degraded (especially if the vacuum is a few years old)
Batteries do not hold a full charge forever, so their run time can get shorter and shorter over time as they degrade, sometimes they will only hold a partial charge, as in your case.
If the problem is the batteries I think you can get new battery packs from Bosch, but these tend to be very expensive, almost the price of a new vacuum.
@@OrbiterElectronics thank you, the battery are new,but still not hołd. I will check the charger.
I have a problem with my hoover.it's work with charger 30V--500mA, I plugged it into a 30V ___3 A charger, and it no charges the problem in an electronic circuit. What am I to do pleas help me?
Does someone sell a circuit electronic to replace it?😭
Was the polarity correct on the DC jack you used? e.g. Centre Positive. If the DC jack you used was Centre Negative you may have damaged components on the PCB.
You can 'sometimes' pick up parts for these vacuums on Ebay, however if you manage to find new parts they tend to be very expensive, and on the other hand unfortunately used parts are NOT guaranteed to be good 🙁
My Bosch Athlet runs foe about a minuet then cuts out. the battery is ok. any help you can give me
How do you know the batteries are ok? If the vacuum is couple of years old or more the batts could still be the issue as often they charge but don't retain capacity.
Smashing fix john :-D, lucky it had a pcb fuse :-D
You do enjoy attacking yourself with subtitles lol, "This bloke is crap, he tells lies." or something like that ha ha :-D
Can't beat a good sense of humor :-D.
Yes i've been there with that type of vac john.
i did the wire repair on a identical looking vac and the wire broke in the same place lol.
I was lucky though, there was no short between wires :-D.
I lifted the sprung power connector and added an extention to the down wire, then pulled the down wire down to solder on to the motor.
It will break again one day, it was/is a stupid design, much like the door/hatch rubber gators full of wires on cars, bend bend bend ... snap snap lol. (Done those too lol)
This comment is turning into a book, sorry mate :-(
Thanks Harvey 👍 Yes I was happy to see those fuses, made for a fast repair.
Yea I love the subtitles, hehe, they save me time in many cases as having to splitting & match audio/video takes ages, especially if there are many edits. Plus I'd rather include video parts instead of chopping'em out if possible 😉
I don't think these things are made to last are they Harv, being that their wiring is so poorly implemented down to the brush head. Gives us something to do though aye 😁
Look.. You've made me write a book now too 😉 LOL.
Cheers friend
John
It's all good fun :-D
Your subtitles are funny, so it adds to the video :-).
Some tubers show there mistakes and that's smashing, it stops you thinking they are perfect, and perhaps we learn something too :-).
On videos where nothing goes wrong or bolts just come out too easy, i know the item has been prepped, not real, shame :-(
Just my opinion of cause :-)
John, checked the throughput of the resistors on the vacuum and the contacts of the charger, all seems to work. Any ideas?
Are the vacuums charge lights actually coming on or not?
@@OrbiterElectronics not at all. But lights go on if i try to use it. Irritating heh.
@@mrcmountain6342 Have you found any solution? I have a similar problem. No charge but when in press the button it lit's up and starts flashing as if it has battery 0.
Hi @Orbiter Electronics, thank you for your video. I have the same problem. The device won't charge anymore, but when turning it on the lights for low battery are on. I see around 25 voltage and I think the cells you mentioned F1 and F2 are done.. Not sure what else to try, any ideas? Thanks from Germany!
not for me, but got some batteries out of it. still have no idea why it just suddenly stopped though
Nie mehr bosch akku sauger. Habe 3 stück alle Akku defekt nach der Garantie
Yea they're no good after their first set of cells, or after any attempt to repair them either 👍
no action at all when trying to charge, though if i try to start it then lights go on
I may have a bit of time later so I will perhaps take a look at my vacuums PCB Test Points to see what they read, then you can compare yours.
In the mean time perhaps you could have a close look at your PCBs components.. Check if any are burned or smell burned. Have a close look at the main ICs (U1 & U4) check their tops surfaces for cracks or small burn holes.
Also.. if you know how... test the main transistors (marked on the PCB.. Q15, Q16, Q17) for open/short circuits.
Please contact me next time via the 'ABOUT' section at the top of my TH-cam channel.. This way I can send any images easier via email.
Cheers
John
@@OrbiterElectronics Thank you again, will do!
I can hear in your accent you're from merseyside. Can I drop off my Bosch athlet circuit board to you for repair? It is not charging
Hello Robert, I'm sorry but unfortunately I'm not able to take on external repairs at present. Also, as your issue is with the charging of the unit (unless it just a failure of the wall adaptor..) It's likely that it has failed due to a problem with the main control PCB or it's IC chip, this controls charging too. The IC can seemingly fail on these vacuums for no apparent reason and once failed it's not possible to repair them. This is because there is no firmware available to be able to re-flash the chip with it's software. So yes you could in theory just buy/replace the main IC chip, however it would be useless without it's control programme/software.
Since making the video we have had our Athlet fail again due to this seemingly super sensitive IC issue, I even managed to get hold of a second-hand PCB (with main IC chip) however this had suffered the same failure, and wouldn't charge :(
Regards
John
@@OrbiterElectronics no worries John thanks for the info ! :)
Do anyone knows what is that black square 4-pin connector approx between ATmega and BQ BMS chip? You can see it on this video, Black, with black silicone at base. Is it USB to ATmega? Or what?
I'm currently trying to repair my 32.4V (9-cell) version of Athlet. Back box... Help with any information about controller board would be much appreciated!
It should be criminal to sell these, the moment single battery cell dies this hoover is pretty much landfill material.
Agreed mate... Not only should the cells or packs be replaceable for stuff like this, but it seems to me that the IC's on these things is soooo susceptible to static damage that you virtually can't touch the PCB for fear of damaging the firmware IC. I only know as I've killed a couple of them :(
@@OrbiterElectronics Haha, tell me about it, I think I just fried one yesterday 😂 Oh well, might just get a spare from evilbay, as there seems to be so many of them there.
Be careful there mate.. Only because I did the same thing & bought a couple of replacement PCBs from ebay. They were supposedly good, however they were DOA 😠
That was a year or more ago though so perhaps you'll have better luck 🤞
@@OrbiterElectronics Good news, got a spare half broken hoover with good PCB, swapped battery and case and all is well. I found two things though. If you connect the battery in the wrong order, the atmega chip will block the controller and board is instantly unusable and the second thing I found is that Bosch intentionally degrade these through software! The hoover I got only lasted 5-10 min on full charge, yet I've tested each cell individually now and each and every single cell still have 85% original factory capacity and all cells are within 30mah of each other! Will never buy a bosch tool ever again, that is planned obsolescence at its worst!
@@katar0t0 Good to hear you've got yours working again. And interesting what you found regarding the battery connection. If I see another one I'll remember that. Although the last one I killed was my own vacuum, and the batteries weren't disconnected. I was just testing some voltages on the PCB whilst trying to assist someone who'd asked for help :(
I never used to think planned obsolescence was a real (Or legal) thing.. but it seems it is. Big business control aye.. 😡
cheers mate
John