Tajikistan-Suzaniduzi, Folk Embroidery

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Script
Suzaniduzi is a very ancient art of embroidery of Tajik people.
This art is known, made and taught very well here.
This particular kind of Suzani (wall cover) appeared at the end of 19th century.
The Tajiks used to express their creativity in wood-carving,
Suzaniduzi, patterned painting and customs since ancient times.
The oldest of these crafts is Suzaniduzi.
Suzaniduzi is inherited from our ancestors by maternal lineage.
These patterns were already known to our grandmothers.
As young girls we used to feed the silkworms with mulberry leaves.
Then we used to collect the cocoons together.
The cocoons were boiled, made into threads, colored and used in Suzaniduzi.
When we talk about Chakan (style of embroidery)
We have to mention the origins of these colors...and these patterns of nature that don't look realistic.
There is a hidden symbolism in them.
The deep meaning is disclosed only to knowledgeable people.
When we look attentively at this world paradigm we relate to the Pre-Islamic
beliefs of our ancestors.
For example, they worshiped Zoroastrianism, and the more ancient Mithraism, the cult of Sun.
the cult of god of Sun and Light.
As they worshiped the Sun, they tried to reflect the solar disk in their art.
The first thing required is to make a drawing of the pattern.
We chose the pattern...and transfer it to a paper, making Naqsh (drawing)
If the pattern is symmetrical, then the paper is folded six or four times.
Firstly we make Naqsh on one side of the paper.
We fold the paper to make the symmetrical Naqsh.
The symmetry is attractive.
The pattern is balanced.
The pattern of Suzani, we are embroidering now, is 200 years old.
We discovered and revived it.
We copied this pattern.
These patterns are so beautiful, none is repeated.
Initially we looked at the patterns with fascination for long.
We couldn't get satisfied of watching.
Those colors were not affected by time.
But the 200-year-old cotton fabric of Suzani itself was destroyed.
But the pattern didn't lose its colors.
We copied it with a great interest.
Now we are embroidering together with the neighbors and daughters-in-law.
There are such patterns like Anorgul (pomegranate), Bargi bed (willow leave),
Bodom (almond), Islimi (flower), Kajak (curve), Sebarga (trefoil).
Each Naqsh has its own name.
The most important is to follow the symmetry and match the colors.
All the colors have to be in harmony.
Firstly, we match them in a palette to make a decision.
Initially we take a half meter of fabric.
It has to match the size of a cushion.
The first Naqsh of the pillow cover will be a big flower.
We are outlining like this.
After that we will outline the smaller circle inside.
Have a look...We do it to embroider within the borders.
Afterwards we measure the proportions...and start drawing the Naqshs inside carefully.
We have to follow the proportions.
The Naqshs have to be equal.
The designs of Chakan are very stylized and simple.
The person with no imagination can't understand these designs.
They have their own philosophy.
The colors and Naqshs deliver the important symbolic meaning.
Each woman used to express the representation of life and death...the ups and downs of her family life...in these patterns.
The women weren't free, being at home most of the time.
So they were forced to express their feelings through Suzaniduzi.
This is the bridal curtain, made of the red fabric...and embroidered with colorful threads.
This is the Naqsh of two Moons
Look, these are the Moons - the symbol of a married couple.
These small Moons around the big Moons are the children of the married couple.
There are the three basic colors used in this Chakan: red, yellow and purple.
Slowly other embroiderers appeared, who started using another colors.
But the main colors were red, yellow and purple.
Even the Aryan's flag had these three colors.
It was described by Ferdowsi in Shahnameh (Book of Kings).
The red, yellow, purple flag waved high,
Belonged to Kaveh, the blacksmith.
These colors symbolize peace, kindness, light and perfection.
The symbolic meaning of Chakan is still sacral to people...
Though they don't understand it completely.
So the two flowers are ready.
There have to be three flowers on the pillow cover.
If one flower goes wrong, then everything will be spoiled.
Note it down, if any of your Naqshs isn't correct,
your work will be ruined.
- Do we have to start again?
- Yes, whenever it goes wrong.
Girls, go to your places and continue your work there.
It was always compulsory to teach girls Suzaniduzi.
It was the policy of every family to strengthen it.
These handy-crafts were filled with the deep meaning.
For example, for a daughter's happiness, for her fertility.
Every girl had to be given these items.