McIntosh Driver Board Requests - Part 1 of 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- I decided to do this video as a result of the overwhelming number of requests I received for the McIntosh MC2100/MC2105 driver boards. In this two-part video, I will show you how to build a set of the new boards that just arrived and then do some testing on the finished product. I will also try to answer some viewer questions and talk about my choice of components, amplifier performance, etc. Finally, I will provide info on how to purchase a pair of the boards from me. Unfortunately, I can only provide the circuit boards, as I don't have the time to assemble them or order the components. To be clear: :This video is to help people who are interested in purchasing and building these boards. It is long and goes into detail so that even those with less experience can be successful in building them. .
Thanks Tony! I don't like to take unnecessary chances so I support the transistor leads at the body before bending them to keep from putting stress on them.
Happy New Tony from the UK! Keep up the great work.
Well illustrated and explained. Most useful. Thank you for doing the boards.
Hello ! Thanks for the wonderful video. I have a soldering tip ;) If you cut the component leads before soldering rather than after, the solder will cover the exposed copper of the lead, this will help for long term durability. When you cut the lead after soldering, even though the lead tin will be pressed together it often still leaves copper exposed (look with a microscope). The copper in the middle of the lead can get oxydized and cause all sorts of problems long term, especially in humid/salty environments (the oxidation creeps inside the lead/component over time)
Cutting the leads, then soldering is worth the trouble for long term reliability, as to hold the components in place use a mounting rack or masking tape, or solder one of the leads, cut them all flush, and solder all the leads including the first one.
Best regards.
I don't own any vintage Mac equipment yet I'm watching this and plan to watch the next video. I do enjoy building my own audio equipment though.. Maybe I'll learn something new about fabrication. I like the black finish and gold also.
Happy New Year to you and your family and Bella, of course. Greetings from Belgium, where 75 years ago Americans fought a harsh battle of the bulge, to end the horrors of NAZI Germany. We will never forget those who paid the ultimate prize for our freedom.
Thank you for the comment! My Dad was a WW2 veteran (south pacific) and his best friend (who is still alive) was, I believe, involved in the battle of the bulge. I hope no one ever has to experience what they did ever again.
On a lighter note, Bella sends her regards :)
We still pay this Nazi occupation today happy new year from Greece
@@xraytonyb I did my military service in the Ardennes, in the winter of '81-82'. The freezing cold in the Bastogne region is not a joke. Those men have suffered beyond our imagination.
Being picky but the best solder joints are usually dode post cropping. The solder then flows over the exposed cut joint and the cutting does not run the risk of causing a fracture to the solder joint. That's how we have to do it in military gear. Truth is I do my stuff the way you do too!
Happy new year 2020 Tony from the Netherlands... top job!!! More so on NY eve :-)
Yep, black mask with enig is so cool.
Excellent work sir, I have a question for everyone. I recently got a mc2105 (1974-5?) and getting ready to do a full recapping, but I am still confused by this issue- do all of them need a driver board update? Or is it for an earlier production range and the later ones are ok? I've found the internets surprisingly vague on this question so far.
What I've used instead of Thread Locker is the wife's old nail polish. Has it's own applicator brush. Breaks away easily enough if you have to take it apart.
Hi, I am working over a MC2300 with dead driver board....how can I buy 2 new? thanks
I am interested in two boards, Can you let me know if you have any available? Thanks
is there a DSP based version of this McIntosh MC2100/MC2105 amplifier where the output board is just discrete component R2R DAC which drives the load matching auto-transformer via a low pass filter.
Thanks Tony!
How do we order a pair?
I use acid brushes to clean flux off. Most stores like Harbor Freight have a back of 50 for like 5 bucks or less.
A suggestion here. I think it is best to lay the board down so it is still then use a pointer of sorts to point out what you are referring to on the board. The video is jerky when the board is hand held especially when it is close focussed.
What was the color of the original boards? Blue might be cool to match the caps.
originals were brown/tan color. The later ones were greenish blue.
@@xraytonyb Blue then!
Hi Tony, just a general thought about heat sinks. Should they be grounded to stop them floating at some induced voltage or does grounding cause capacitance to ground issues, with the mounted semiconductors?
I've never heard of that type of thing happening. There's really nothing on the board that could cause any induced signal. Thanks for the comment!
@@xraytonyb It was a more general comment that might apply to the big heat sinks more. Thanks for taking time to reply Tony.
Why are there so many people with (a) these amps, and (b) amps whose (whatever these are) boards have failed, but the rest of the device is OK? Do these replace factory boards that are inferior in some way? In fact, why do you think these boards were missing from the amp you were working on? I somehow found this confusing, not that it matters.
Can I still get this board??
I want to order MC2105 driver board. Please let me know how. Thank you.
They sold out 3 days after this video posted.
I need driver boards for a mc2300.....I know there is a company that makes them...but for the life of me I cannot remember their name....would these boards work on the mc2300....if not maybe you know of the company that makes the driver boards for the mc2300....thanks Jeff
A viewer reported back to me that the boards I designed will not fit in the 2300. My boards are a little bit wider than the original ones, so they don't fit. It is not a problem with the 2100 and the 2105. I'm not aware of any other replacement boards, although there may be some that I don't know of. I was told that McIntosh stopped making the replacements.
Thanks for the comment!
@@xraytonyb darn it.....would you be willing to make 2300 boards if I gave you an original board.....there are many of us out there that need boards for the 2300 also....thanks Jeff
Dude. Too cool.
Whats the status of your class D bench amp?
I'm building an IcePower amp to see if I like it
It was fried beyond repair. The tiny traces on the PC board were pretty badly burned and I was unable to properly solder a new chip to it. Time to get something else!
@@xraytonyb Bummer. But there's a lot out there to choose from!
I still think you should have silver-plated the traces adding 12 to 16% of resistance to electron flow by not having it and increasing electron bounce if it's audible that's another question you'd have to experiment
Are you joking?
@@Wizardofgosz no it's a no fact that silver allows 100% electrons flow copper 12% gold 16% in resistance to the flow of electrons and considering it's the skin effect that's where where it is carried
What you say about resistance in the three metals is correct. But what you have not taken into account is the rate of oxidation when used the three are used as connectors. Gold is far superior to silver or copper for connector use and is used because of it's low oxidation properties. Silver also has an undesirable trait known as "silver migration" which is the ionic movement of silver between two adjacent traces which can result in a electrical shorts between traces.
Are you selling these boards?
Sold out in the first three days
@@xraytonyb Any plans for a second batch?
And 2205?
I think it would work, but on some models, this board is slightly wider than the original and I heard it doesn't fit (by just a hair). Other folks said that it fit and worked perfectly.
A McIntosh that needs repair? I used to go to McIntosh Clinics and they would fix them for free.
I have a feeling they wouldn't have fixed mine for free....... :(
@@xraytonyb Oh, they did amazing things. No more clinics, though. Look up Dave O'Brien on Roger Russel's website.
If you're talking about the Apple computer brand, it's Macintosh, not McIntosh.
Apple still pays a fee to McIntosh Laboratories yo use the MacIntosh name, though.