THANK YOU!!!! 10 degrees and snowing in Denver today and my furnace decided to stop working. Kept cycling on 3 times for 5/10 seconds before stopping completely. Through your videos I was able to troubleshoot and get it operating all by myself!
@@AmreSupplyMiller downdraft furnaces don't use a flame sensor so I don't know why this video showed up under the title flame sensor location for nordyne mh furnaces
@@commonsense3673 Thanks for watching. The search algorithm isn't a perfect system by any means. Since you searched for furnaces and flame sensor, those are relevant enough keywords to bring up this video.
It's Sunday morning. Woke up to a cycling furnace. Nobody wanted to come out. Thanks to your video, I diagnosed and fixed it myself. Unfortunately, I inadvertently took out and sanded the ignitor, thinking it was a second flame sensor. Oops! Not supposed to touch those. Still works though so all is well. Thanks again!
Hi Paul, thank you for watching. We're glad that you were able to get it back and running again. It might be good to still keep an eye on the ignitor, just in case you sanded down too much. In many cases its worth having a spare ignitor on hand regardless.
I'm sorry to bug u but I did what you said but once I turn it off it doesn't go back on I bought a new sensor it worked until I turned it off and now it's not working do u know what else it can be please let me know thank you
@@cindygonzalez1325 First of all its best to have the burners cleaned as that can affect the flame sensor. As well we have a video that covers more of the troubleshooting that you might find helpful th-cam.com/video/b0sAGt-1niU/w-d-xo.html
1:58 .. I been in the hvac trade for 3 months and always found it difficult to take out a flame sensor on a Lennox 90%… just like at 1:58 the screw is located underneath the burners however the gas pipe is much higher, probably half the space you have on the video
Thank for watching. You are right that not all flame sensors are this simple to access. We are currently filming some appliance repair videos but if we return to do an update to HVAC then we'll likely try to talk more about some of the variations between models. Cheers!
***Actually Anyone who has the knowledge to help with this question would be much appreciated!*** Thank you for the video! One question: Where does the OTHER side of the flame sensor wire plug into? We bought a house with an OLD furnace lol, and an orange wire is plugged on to the part of the flame sensor that sits on the pilot assembly kit (which includes a pilot orifice on one side of the flame sensor and a thermocouple on other) but the other end of the orange flame sensor wire is just laying underneath (on surface floor beneath gas valve etc) completely disconnected so obviously non-functional 😳.. the furnace is a Lennox g13 gas furnace, with a standing pilot that has to be manually lit by holding down solenoid button on gas valve thank you!
Thanks for watching. In high efficiency furnaces, the flame sensor is a flame rectification device. It only has one wire. It creates a DC circuit by completing the circuit through the flame, to the metal burner, down into the frame of the furnace to ground. This means if the flame sensor is dirty, if the burner is covered in carbon, or if the furnace is not properly grounded, then the circuit might not be completed and the control board will think that there is no flame present. Standing pilot furnaces uses a thermocouple which screws into the furnace. th-cam.com/video/3EKbSiAJyiI/w-d-xo.html The thermocouple generates a small amount of voltage by the pilot flame. If the flame goes out then the thermocouple will cool down and shut off the gas valve. So the thermocouple is also used as a flame sensor. Some standing pilot furnaces have both a thermocouple and flame sensor (it will have a dedicated control board) and some do not have a flame sensor. In your case if there is no connection for the flame sensor then its likely that you just have a basic standing pilot furnace. In this case you can remove the flame sensor or just keep it disconnected and the furnace should run properly.
My nest thermostat detects that the furnace turns off after 15min, then starts right up about 1 minute later. Could this be the flame sensor that’s dirty or needing replaced? I bought a new nest thermostat and it does the same thing. I also put the old Honeywell one back on and same thing so I think I ruled out the thermostat.
Thanks for watching. We made a video that goes into more detail on why a furnace starts and stops. If the burners ignite and stay lit, then the flame sensor is working correctly. In your case its likely an issue an overheating issue or a problem with the limit switch. th-cam.com/video/b0sAGt-1niU/w-d-xo.html
@@AmreSupply I replaced both the limit switch and flame sensor just because I’ve only owned the house for 1 year so who knows how old the parts are. I noticed the old limit switch had lots of dust build up. Either way the problem is now fixed. $33!!! I subscribed!
I put a igniter and a flame sensor on mines works great before temperature in house would drop down to 63 before furnace would catch on now temperature drop two degrees below set temp on furnace cut right on....both parts cost me total of 65
Thanks for this video. I have the exact symptom. My flame sensor look clean enough but I did clean it anyhow. But it works well for a while and I have to clean it again. Is it possible that there are something else problem? Or do I need to replace the sensor? I see some different brand sensor sale online, can I just buy the one that look the same but different manufacture?
Hi Chhin, thank you for watching. First thing to check is to make sure that the flame sensor is positioned in the flame, if it is not positioned properly in the flame then it will not work to prove that there's a flame present. Now for a replacement, its best to find a model that is listed as a direct replacement for your model so you know that it will fit and work in your unit. If not there might be some size differences or variation that is hard to see in a picture. You can browse flame sensors here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Sensors-Flame-HV2G You can sort by Manufacture. If you have any questions you can call our customer care center here 1-800-661-9891
Thanks for watching. There is a lot of variation on how parts are mounted in different models. What are you finding difficult about removing the flame sensor in the Lennox model?
My furnace is giving a code (7 red blinks) meaning the flame could not be established after 3 tries. The furnace then locks out for an hour then restarts. Sometimes it heats and sometimes it doesn't. I'm thinking this is likely the flame sensor, what do you think?
Hi Chris, thank you for watching. Its most likely the flame sensor. Cleaning the sensor is the first thing to do, as well make sure that the burners are clean as the flame sensor sends a signal through the flame though the metal in the burner to ground to complete the circuit to "prove a flame". As well check that the connection to the control board is secure and that the wires are not frayed or burnt. If that doesn't work then replace the flame sensor.
Thanks for watching. The flame sensor is a metal rod that detects the presence of a flame (by completing a small DC circuit through the flame). It is used in furnaces in that have a hot surface ignitor. If you are talking about an ignition switch, then you're likely referring to Piezo ignitiors. These spark ignitiors are used with standing pilot furnaces. There are intermittent pilot furnaces, which have pilot lights which are controlled electronically and light with a sparker.
Just got my new flame sensor, and went to connect it and it has a 'MALE' adaptor, which the original was a FEMALE adaptor...so right now, I have male/male, which of course does not work/snap together....Can I swap the wires and use the formerly bad male adaptor but only use the plastic part, so that I can make a connection, or do they sell BRIDGE plastic connectors that go to your current plastic adaptors? thanks...
Thanks for watching. An male to female adapter might be available somewhere but is likely going to be hard to find. Swapping the wires to use the female connector from the original sensor would work as long as the wire splice has a solid connection.
just a question...is this something someone can do like as mischief (i was renting the basemnet) and this suddenly happened. Or is this just a common thing and can happen to anyone. cost me $179 to just replace the sensor. the guy said its common for a 20 year old furnace. Any advice for a 20 year old furnace? how long will it work? Thanks. New furnaces can be bought or rented? which ones the best? Thanks
Hi Arshi, problems with the flame sensor are very common as it can get dirty, or fail overtime, which will prevent the furnace from lighting. Every furnace is different, but there are furnaces that run for 30 years with regular maintenance and with some replacement parts (new motor, new sensors etc) If you get a new furnace, try to find a high efficiency model, which is 90 AFUE or above. Older furnaces are likely 70 - 80 AFUE and will use more energy each month. New furnaces can be rented or bought. If you are a home owner and plan to sell anytime soon, then buying a furnace will be the best option as it can add value to your home. Alternative furnace rentals are often bundled with service and extended warranty. Like most things you'll likely pay slightly more overall for renting.
The headliner said "how it works" and all that is explained here is "what it does" and "how to replace it". Can you show a video on how a flame sensor works?
Hi mcallumcra, thank you for watching. The "How it Works" segment was to help clarify how the system works and you're right that it doesn't go in-depth into how a flame sensor senses a flame. We kept the explanation straight forward but if you are interested in learning more than do a search on "Flame rectification". Cheers.
@@AmreSupply thanks. I did look into that. It's quite interesting how it basically turns into a rectifier. Funny how a little soot can cause the problem but it totally makes sence why it needs to be cleaned now. Thanks again for the video. My house is warm again.
@@mccallumcra Yes it does work a little different than a thermocouple but its a pretty well designed device to safely prove a flame. We're glad you have your furnace working again!
My furnace (a high-efficiency Bryant Model 398AAW048100D) starts the burners, but often shuts off after a few seconds. It has a spark igniter/pilot flame unit with 3 wires, but I see no flame sensor. Any ideas?
Hi Mortier thanks for watching. All models use some sort of a safety device to ensure that there is a flame present when the gas valve opens. These Bryant Models use a bi-metal switch which is built into the pilot assembly (The switch has 3 wires coming out of it). Overtime these switches can start sticking and won't open properly when heated, causing the furnace to shut off after the burners are lit. These switches are built into the pilot assembly. Part number LH680005 www.amresupply.com/part/9011873 Also its worth taking a look at this video and reading the comments as other people have shared your issue. th-cam.com/video/JFoVcYpq1p8/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps!
Thanks for watching. If you need a new flame sensor you can do a search on the AMRE website or browse the available sensors here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Sensors-Flame-HV2G
You make a good point, some wires are harder to remove than others. While filming this we had to wiggle the wire at 1:39 to disconnect the wire, and it took a bit of wiggling and didn't show up well on camera as the hand was in the way. In general if a wire won't come loose you can use needle nose pliers to help get a better grip to pull it from the terminal. Hope this helps!
Great video, accurate details, visual steps were amazing, the how to two thumbs up, different parts overview, and electronic non refunds details additional plus, step by step process easy to understand, the instructions were catchy and made me stay focus. I really enjoy the video and help me be confident on my quick learning. Looking forward to other videos. Thank you again and will consider the website for parts and sharing the video across my network.
Hi Robert for watching. A service call can cost $100 and the repair and the cost of the part and labor can often cost another $100 or more. So likely $200 - $300 on average.
Thank you. Tomorrow we are hitting single digits and the furnace going out couldn't have been at a worse time! This fixed our problem, thank you!
You're welcome Roger! We're glad that the video helped you during these cold days!
I cleaned my sensor and now it works like a charm, thanks!
Hi Lance, thank you for watching! We're glad that cleaning the flame sensor worked for you!
THANK YOU!!!! 10 degrees and snowing in Denver today and my furnace decided to stop working. Kept cycling on 3 times for 5/10 seconds before stopping completely. Through your videos I was able to troubleshoot and get it operating all by myself!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help, especially on such a cold day! In Alberta we've been sitting at -30C (-22f) for the last few weeks.
Thank you for this easy to follow tutorial! Cleaned up the gunk built up on the sensor and it fired right up after!
Thanks for watching Jake! We're glad the video helped you out!
@@AmreSupplyMiller downdraft furnaces don't use a flame sensor so I don't know why this video showed up under the title flame sensor location for nordyne mh furnaces
@@commonsense3673 Thanks for watching. The search algorithm isn't a perfect system by any means. Since you searched for furnaces and flame sensor, those are relevant enough keywords to bring up this video.
@@AmreSupply p
It's Sunday morning. Woke up to a cycling furnace. Nobody wanted to come out. Thanks to your video, I diagnosed and fixed it myself. Unfortunately, I inadvertently took out and sanded the ignitor, thinking it was a second flame sensor. Oops! Not supposed to touch those. Still works though so all is well. Thanks again!
Hi Paul, thank you for watching. We're glad that you were able to get it back and running again. It might be good to still keep an eye on the ignitor, just in case you sanded down too much. In many cases its worth having a spare ignitor on hand regardless.
Cleaned it with a wire brush - good as new! Thank you
You're welcome Travis, thank you for watching! We're glad that cleaning the flame sensor worked for you!
Thank you so much you helped us fix our furnace and now it works like new thank u so much good bless you 😇
You're welcome Cindy! We'reglad that the video helped you fix your furnace!
I'm sorry to bug u but I did what you said but once I turn it off it doesn't go back on I bought a new sensor it worked until I turned it off and now it's not working do u know what else it can be please let me know thank you
@@cindygonzalez1325 First of all its best to have the burners cleaned as that can affect the flame sensor. As well we have a video that covers more of the troubleshooting that you might find helpful th-cam.com/video/b0sAGt-1niU/w-d-xo.html
My flame sensor was L shaped and a literal pain in the neck to install, but my heat is working fine. Thanks
You're welcome, we're glad that it's working now.
1:58 .. I been in the hvac trade for 3 months and always found it difficult to take out a flame sensor on a Lennox 90%… just like at 1:58 the screw is located underneath the burners however the gas pipe is much higher, probably half the space you have on the video
Thank for watching. You are right that not all flame sensors are this simple to access. We are currently filming some appliance repair videos but if we return to do an update to HVAC then we'll likely try to talk more about some of the variations between models. Cheers!
***Actually Anyone who has the knowledge to help with this question would be much appreciated!*** Thank you for the video! One question: Where does the OTHER side of the flame sensor wire plug into? We bought a house with an OLD furnace lol, and an orange wire is plugged on to the part of the flame sensor that sits on the pilot assembly kit (which includes a pilot orifice on one side of the flame sensor and a thermocouple on other) but the other end of the orange flame sensor wire is just laying underneath (on surface floor beneath gas valve etc) completely disconnected so obviously non-functional 😳.. the furnace is a Lennox g13 gas furnace, with a standing pilot that has to be manually lit by holding down solenoid button on gas valve thank you!
Thanks for watching. In high efficiency furnaces, the flame sensor is a flame rectification device. It only has one wire. It creates a DC circuit by completing the circuit through the flame, to the metal burner, down into the frame of the furnace to ground. This means if the flame sensor is dirty, if the burner is covered in carbon, or if the furnace is not properly grounded, then the circuit might not be completed and the control board will think that there is no flame present.
Standing pilot furnaces uses a thermocouple which screws into the furnace. th-cam.com/video/3EKbSiAJyiI/w-d-xo.html The thermocouple generates a small amount of voltage by the pilot flame. If the flame goes out then the thermocouple will cool down and shut off the gas valve. So the thermocouple is also used as a flame sensor.
Some standing pilot furnaces have both a thermocouple and flame sensor (it will have a dedicated control board) and some do not have a flame sensor. In your case if there is no connection for the flame sensor then its likely that you just have a basic standing pilot furnace. In this case you can remove the flame sensor or just keep it disconnected and the furnace should run properly.
My nest thermostat detects that the furnace turns off after 15min, then starts right up about 1 minute later. Could this be the flame sensor that’s dirty or needing replaced? I bought a new nest thermostat and it does the same thing. I also put the old Honeywell one back on and same thing so I think I ruled out the thermostat.
Thanks for watching. We made a video that goes into more detail on why a furnace starts and stops. If the burners ignite and stay lit, then the flame sensor is working correctly. In your case its likely an issue an overheating issue or a problem with the limit switch. th-cam.com/video/b0sAGt-1niU/w-d-xo.html
@@AmreSupply thank you for that
@@AmreSupply I replaced both the limit switch and flame sensor just because I’ve only owned the house for 1 year so who knows how old the parts are. I noticed the old limit switch had lots of dust build up. Either way the problem is now fixed. $33!!! I subscribed!
@@ivanrvzo1022 We're glad that you fixed the problem! Also thank you for the subscription!
What tools did you use to remove the heat sensor ?
In this case a nut driver was needed, since it was a tight fit we used a socket wrench. In some cases you'll need a screw driver.
I put a igniter and a flame sensor on mines works great before temperature in house would drop down to 63 before furnace would catch on now temperature drop two degrees below set temp on furnace cut right on....both parts cost me total of 65
Thanks for watching Emmitt! We're glad you we're able to get those parts installed!
does the direction the wire is inserted matter? thanks
Thanks for watching. As long as there is a good connection with the flame sensor it will work. The orientation of the wire connector does not matter.
Thanks for this video. I have the exact symptom. My flame sensor look clean enough but I did clean it anyhow. But it works well for a while and I have to clean it again. Is it possible that there are something else problem? Or do I need to replace the sensor? I see some different brand sensor sale online, can I just buy the one that look the same but different manufacture?
Hi Chhin, thank you for watching. First thing to check is to make sure that the flame sensor is positioned in the flame, if it is not positioned properly in the flame then it will not work to prove that there's a flame present. Now for a replacement, its best to find a model that is listed as a direct replacement for your model so you know that it will fit and work in your unit. If not there might be some size differences or variation that is hard to see in a picture. You can browse flame sensors here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Sensors-Flame-HV2G You can sort by Manufacture. If you have any questions you can call our customer care center here 1-800-661-9891
Any experience with 90% Lennox furnaces? It’s real difficult trying to take out the flame sensor . I’m just looking for tips to make my job easier..
Thanks for watching. There is a lot of variation on how parts are mounted in different models. What are you finding difficult about removing the flame sensor in the Lennox model?
My furnace is giving a code (7 red blinks) meaning the flame could not be established after 3 tries. The furnace then locks out for an hour then restarts. Sometimes it heats and sometimes it doesn't. I'm thinking this is likely the flame sensor, what do you think?
Hi Chris, thank you for watching. Its most likely the flame sensor. Cleaning the sensor is the first thing to do, as well make sure that the burners are clean as the flame sensor sends a signal through the flame though the metal in the burner to ground to complete the circuit to "prove a flame". As well check that the connection to the control board is secure and that the wires are not frayed or burnt.
If that doesn't work then replace the flame sensor.
Is the Flame censor and the ignition switch different?
Thanks for watching. The flame sensor is a metal rod that detects the presence of a flame (by completing a small DC circuit through the flame). It is used in furnaces in that have a hot surface ignitor.
If you are talking about an ignition switch, then you're likely referring to Piezo ignitiors. These spark ignitiors are used with standing pilot furnaces.
There are intermittent pilot furnaces, which have pilot lights which are controlled electronically and light with a sparker.
Just got my new flame sensor, and went to connect it and it has a 'MALE' adaptor, which the original was a FEMALE adaptor...so right now, I have male/male, which of course does not work/snap together....Can I swap the wires and use the formerly bad male adaptor but only use the plastic part, so that I can make a connection, or do they sell BRIDGE plastic connectors that go to your current plastic adaptors? thanks...
Thanks for watching. An male to female adapter might be available somewhere but is likely going to be hard to find. Swapping the wires to use the female connector from the original sensor would work as long as the wire splice has a solid connection.
just a question...is this something someone can do like as mischief (i was renting the basemnet) and this suddenly happened. Or is this just a common thing and can happen to anyone.
cost me $179 to just replace the sensor.
the guy said its common for a 20 year old furnace.
Any advice for a 20 year old furnace? how long will it work? Thanks.
New furnaces can be bought or rented? which ones the best? Thanks
Hi Arshi, problems with the flame sensor are very common as it can get dirty, or fail overtime, which will prevent the furnace from lighting.
Every furnace is different, but there are furnaces that run for 30 years with regular maintenance and with some replacement parts (new motor, new sensors etc)
If you get a new furnace, try to find a high efficiency model, which is 90 AFUE or above. Older furnaces are likely 70 - 80 AFUE and will use more energy each month. New furnaces can be rented or bought. If you are a home owner and plan to sell anytime soon, then buying a furnace will be the best option as it can add value to your home. Alternative furnace rentals are often bundled with service and extended warranty. Like most things you'll likely pay slightly more overall for renting.
What size socket / wrench do you need
Thanks for watching. Generally a 1/4" socket wrench is needed.
The headliner said "how it works" and all that is explained here is "what it does" and "how to replace it". Can you show a video on how a flame sensor works?
Hi mcallumcra, thank you for watching. The "How it Works" segment was to help clarify how the system works and you're right that it doesn't go in-depth into how a flame sensor senses a flame. We kept the explanation straight forward but if you are interested in learning more than do a search on "Flame rectification". Cheers.
@@AmreSupply thanks. I did look into that. It's quite interesting how it basically turns into a rectifier. Funny how a little soot can cause the problem but it totally makes sence why it needs to be cleaned now. Thanks again for the video. My house is warm again.
@@mccallumcra Yes it does work a little different than a thermocouple but its a pretty well designed device to safely prove a flame. We're glad you have your furnace working again!
My furnace (a high-efficiency Bryant Model 398AAW048100D) starts the burners, but often shuts off after a few seconds. It has a spark igniter/pilot flame unit with 3 wires, but I see no flame sensor. Any ideas?
Hi Mortier thanks for watching. All models use some sort of a safety device to ensure that there is a flame present when the gas valve opens. These Bryant Models use a bi-metal switch which is built into the pilot assembly (The switch has 3 wires coming out of it). Overtime these switches can start sticking and won't open properly when heated, causing the furnace to shut off after the burners are lit. These switches are built into the pilot assembly. Part number LH680005 www.amresupply.com/part/9011873
Also its worth taking a look at this video and reading the comments as other people have shared your issue.
th-cam.com/video/JFoVcYpq1p8/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps!
Thanks for the helpful reply. Much appreciated!
You're welcome Mortier! Cheers
Please I need a Flame Sensor for Gas furnace Model# TM9Y060B12MP11
Thanks for watching. If you need a new flame sensor you can do a search on the AMRE website or browse the available sensors here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Sensors-Flame-HV2G
yeah sure, first disconnect the wire, in this video it was disconnected already, my wouldn't come off (:
You make a good point, some wires are harder to remove than others. While filming this we had to wiggle the wire at 1:39 to disconnect the wire, and it took a bit of wiggling and didn't show up well on camera as the hand was in the way. In general if a wire won't come loose you can use needle nose pliers to help get a better grip to pull it from the terminal. Hope this helps!
wiggling worked thanks :)@@AmreSupply
@@donataspimpasas Glad to hear it!
Great video, accurate details, visual steps were amazing, the how to two thumbs up, different parts overview, and electronic non refunds details additional plus, step by step process easy to understand, the instructions were catchy and made me stay focus. I really enjoy the video and help me be confident on my quick learning. Looking forward to other videos. Thank you again and will consider the website for parts and sharing the video across my network.
If you call a repair man to come and they said this was the problem and they fixed it about what price what I pay
Hi Robert for watching. A service call can cost $100 and the repair and the cost of the part and labor can often cost another $100 or more. So likely $200 - $300 on average.