Replace it with the new Raspberrry Pi and a tiny HD screen, WiFi adapter, etc., so Sagan can run it directly off Steam... plus he'll build up good arm strength carrying around the 12V car battery to power it.
from my experience, if you see color change in the lines there text/white things are, it's usually issue with voltages driving TFT matrix. It may be issue the issue with broken Chip On Glass TFT driver or if driver settings are incorrect. Settings usually transferred from MCU that drives TFT shortly after boot by SPI or I2C interface, so wiggling it in runtime will not help...
Looks like a pretty standard 240x320 LCD with a R61505U controller, they're cheap and easily found on Aliexpress. Maybe do a followup video soldering in a new LCD.
From the creators of "Destructive Testing" and the all famous "Destructive Tear-Down" see now "Destructive Repair" - coming soon to a theatre near you!
i brought one of these hoping to use for a project...took it apart soon as i got it home...when i put it back together i had the same issue with the screen..i took it apart again, checked the ribbon which was fine, and couldnt see any other issues, decided to put it all back together securely and return it as DOA...but to my surprise it actually worked..and still works fine today!
Same problem happened to my niece's mini game console purchased from Jaycar. Different branding but identical internals. I'm planning to run a hot iron along the ribbon cable near the PCB, but hold little hope of it working. There's not much else to go wrong in there. Might be a fun project upgrading the cabinet to a RetroPie! You could do a video documenting the conversion.
Next project :- build the "equivalent" from scratch using a raspberry pie. Objectives 1) Toy for Sagan 2) Interesting project for some of the subscribers 3) To finally shut up all those who goes on about the raspberry pie each time a retro console is shown that does not use a raspberry pie.
Zendal Darkman Yeh, that's a more appropriate use for that BroadCom SoC that boots from a serial flash or SD card and contains a built-in LCD/video driver. Wonder if that CoB could be the main chip from an RPi 1 model A, with the flash chip doing the job of the SDcard.
I found a 65" and I can't believe how big the LCD is, just turning it over makes me feel the screen will break! If I was a repair shop I'd have some sort of moveable drafting table type support mechanism to hold it and move it around without flexing.
volvo09 Make sure it has an adjustable curve for those curved screens! May I suggest a soft winter duvet as a home solution. It is soft and big enough, and is routinely wrapped in a temporary cloth in case of spillage or glass shards.
Since flexing the main PCB changed things, and it didn't appear cracked, my guess is bad bond wires. That's always BER. If it's a packaged chip, swap it out, COB, replace the board if you can get the board, otherwise replace the unit. (Salvage anything worth it, but the only thing that looks salvageable at all was the LCD before it was dropped, and that connection looks like buggery to reuse, so..)
those carbon conductive jumpers seem like a good thing to check. they're not going to be current carrying, so signals only, possibly for the lcd and if one went bad it would be easy to check and easy to fix.
Generally when you can't see an LCD image straight on, there's (perhaps) a missing polarization film. Maybe it was separate piece that Sagan may have pulled off?
a few months ago, i dumped the eeprom in one of these. It was interesting as I was trying to reverse engineer the software and get NES Games running on it... didn't get them to play unfortunately... why though try though? Why not... the SO-8 package is the eeprom that contains games
Do you reckon they put those together at a TV remote factory when there aren't any remote orders coming in? They've got all the equipment, the blow-molding for the casement and the single sided PCB with the carbon jumpers.
It looks like the brighter 'stripes' are exactly where the text is. I've had this problem once with an OLED display, which turned out to be a power supply issue.
The problem is that it looks like everything that could be generating the voltages is COB or COG. You generally cannot repair those, and even if you could, replacing them is much easier and generally cheaper.
Cracking job there... :P On a more positive note, you could use the case to build a RetroPi mini-cabinet out of it, give the kids more (and better) games to play on it too... :)
high five! i still wear this one inch scar above my left hand thumb from when using scissors i was disassembling cable steering toy car when i was 4 or 5. a deep and wide wound, but not much blood, no tendons/vessels injured >_< nowadays i still do repair-attempty teardowns, but without any major accidents =]
Dave, you cannot test LCD's the way you did by pressing on the connections or freezing it. LCD like those are not dumb ones like in your meter. You have to send commands to it to initialize it. There is a crap load of registers in there. So even if one line had a bad connection and it didn't get initialized property and later you pressed the ribbon and i made contact it still would not work. You need to power on/off each time to really check it.
Really looks like a too low LCD driving voltage. When this happens, you start to see a striped pattern because the the rest of the lines with white text is darker as the white text pixels don't consume energy. LCD typically uses high gate drive voltages from 15 to 30 Vpp. Those voltage are generated by a charge pump, that's what all the capacitors on the FPC are for. The problem might be there or on the main board.
It’s a thermoset epoxy. Nitric acid does the job usually Audio tells me it’s an NES COB clone inside. They’ve been making single-chip NES clones since the mid 90s
Looks similar to the results of older handhelds like the Sega Gamegear with bad capacitors, but I didn’t see any obvious passives on that board that would cause it.
With all the many layers of optical magic going on in these things, and the fact that the image is visible from the side, and not straight on, i'm suspecting one of the layers may have shifted ever so slightly, from a drop or similar. Now that it's FUBAR'd it could be interesting to take the display apart and play a little with the internals to see how it affects the image.
Had almost the same thing with the Galaga mini arcade; game played fine but screen was whited out. Tried messing with it but in the end bought another.
The only way to redeem yourself after this compounded fail is to replace the little screen with a 15"LCD monitor and convert the game into a durable table top machine. Sagan deserves no less!
i have seen this twice before on parallel LCDs ... once it was a signal integrity issue (i think thats likely because of the lines) and once due to bias voltage, i assume it would be too high but in my case it was caused by the voltage going too high and the LCD never recovering (probing oopsies)
I know all about the lines. Here's what you should do to fix it: Step 1. Film a repair video. Step 2. Fail. Step 3. Buy a new one (with cash). Step 4. Give "repaired" unit to your impressed son, wife none the wiser.
Sagan will be pissed that you broke his toy. On second thought he is such a good natured kid he’ll probably say “Oh well” and continue soldering components on his current project.
Look onto COB if you're curious. I've never used them so I don't know a whole lot about it, but basically it's not a regular IC under there, it's just a bare die(or Chip On Board) connected with itty bitty bond wires(similar to what's inside of the black package of a typical integrated circuit). Without some sort of compound covering and securing it all to the board the tiny die and bond wires would be left flapping around and easily damaged. Plus if someone took apart the device it was in and was able to poke about at the COB there would be pretty much a 100% chance it would be damaged beyond repair, so encapsulating everything to the board makes things a whole lot more secure and less prone to damage. If you soldered a couple wires to a PCB then connected the other end of those wires to a big piece of cardboard, when the cardboard moves the PCB and wires would move all over the place and experience fatigue until they broke. Now if you coated the entire thing in hot glue then when you shook the cardboard the wires and PCB wouldn't be jolted around and there would be no fatigue were the wires connect to the PCB anymore. Scale things down quite a bit, replace the PCB with the chip on board, replace the wires with bond wires, and the cardboard with the main board the COB is connected to and it's the same principle.
Looks almost like the contrast control is set improperly. Bad resistor somewhere? (Although how you break a resistor without burning it up is beyond me)
I got a tetris micro arcade and it said it was new but the tetris micro arcade had a crack on the screen and didnt turn on can someone help me where I can repair it
From experience, while you're not wrong about it being an ASIC, I can do one better. What you're probably looking at is a "Nintendo on a chip", NOAC, or "Famiclone". It's all the hardware of an original Nintendo, 6502+audio and graphics processor, all condensed down into a single chip. Early ones would just break out connectors for a cartridge port, but newer versions can read ROM files directly from something like an SPI flash chip, or even SD card. They're incredibly cheap, and nearly all 8-bit Chinese consoles use them as their core. Every "NES Classic" ripoff I've seen was using one. Rather than the linux host OS running an emulator of the genuine "NES Classic", the clones would just have a NES ROM that looked like the genuine units interface that would then go on to load other ROMs. (More modern ones have been extended to the point at which they're barely even recognisable as a NES, but will still fall back to playing the original NES roms if presented with them)
At 6:17 it looks like R2 on the flex cable is missing. The remaining solder blobs look a little bit like it was present before and has fallen/broken off, but the edge of the image is too blurry to be sure.
240 in 1. One of mine is 240 the other is 200. My first one was last Dec in a local store but died after a few hours when it started to flicker and sometimes reset then eventually would not power up. I got a refund as they had no more stock but a few days later a return showed up and I ordered one on eBay.
Many argue that it's to make reverse engineering more difficult, but it's not. It's cheaper, and very compact. Sure, with BGA packages you can pack a lot of pins under a tiny package. But with chip on board technology you can do this with a single sided PCB. Another advantage is lower pin capacitances, thus it is sometimes used in radio transceivers.
maybe condensation killed it by shorting somewhere? When you can find the cause you have to dig really deep and replace components. This item is beyond economic repair. Just starting EE and having your first roadblock isn't nice either.
Looks like an NES-On-A-Chip to me~ This is probably an old ASIC that designed in the 90s Taiwan. This is a cheap (and poor) solution to integrate a whole NES console in one epoxy blob. I can get one of this ASIC board for 3 USD in China.
@@gblargg pretty sure John was suggesting... "Shit... I'm being outsmarted by some bloody cheap electronics on TH-cam" *Quick squeeze with some pliers* "Sorry Sagan, I couldn't fix it. Here have a new one."
Unless he removed it chemically rather than mechanically there's a pretty good chance he'd damage the die in the process of breaking off the potting, leaving no discernable way to tell if any cracks were preexisting or a direct result of exposing the COB.
@@rkan2 yeah. The bond wires from the die to the PCB under the blob are they done by hand? I assume joining bond wires from the die to the legs inside an IC package are automated but still not sure about that either. Just figure they must be automated to keep costs down.
![[Sub Thai] APT. - ROSÉ & Bruno Mars](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bYjhzP8x_uc/mqdefault.jpg)
You just went full Linus. You never go full Linus. ;-)
blocki That poor CPU :D
A $10,000 cpu, ouch. lol
He not only drops CPUs "for a living". ;-)
Came here to say the same. :))
buy a new one and pretend you fixed it!
Genial hhahahahhaa
Dad if you fixed it why'd you delete my save files.
Replace it with the new Raspberrry Pi and a tiny HD screen, WiFi adapter, etc., so Sagan can run it directly off Steam... plus he'll build up good arm strength carrying around the 12V car battery to power it.
Exactly the same I wanted to write. Weird... :)
@@VeggeMight Flux capacitor needed re-compiling
I kept dreading the ribbon tearing off at some point.
Bias voltage to LCD out of whack, maybe generated on main PCB?
Some cap went and now the voltage for the lcd is all wrong. at least that what happened to one I had yearsa go.
That's my bet as well.
Tip: Access test mode by holding A and B while tapping Reset or while powering on. There’s a nice menu of tests you can run
wow, would that work on all simular looking system
I like how the test screen crashes when you press all 4 dpad buttons at once
I have a rom dump of one of these... was trying to see if it was using nes on a chip... it may be, but i can't tell. Most likely custom...
Mine seems to crash when pressing up and left together. If that fails to crash it just press another button at the same time
from my experience, if you see color change in the lines there text/white things are, it's usually issue with voltages driving TFT matrix.
It may be issue the issue with broken Chip On Glass TFT driver or if driver settings are incorrect.
Settings usually transferred from MCU that drives TFT shortly after boot by SPI or I2C interface, so wiggling it in runtime will not help...
Looks like a pretty standard 240x320 LCD with a R61505U controller, they're cheap and easily found on Aliexpress. Maybe do a followup video soldering in a new LCD.
From the creators of "Destructive Testing" and the all famous "Destructive Tear-Down" see now "Destructive Repair" - coming soon to a theatre near you!
Unsolder that memory chip and dump its contents. Would be interested in what's stored on there. Please do it, please!
I second this. This could tell what kind of emulator they are running on the blob
@@zaprodk If I were to guess, I'd say it's MAME (multiple arcade machine emulator)
@@brettleach6565 MAME is a Lot of things. It can emulate dozens of different game platform hardware. /which/ hardware is what would be interesting.
@@zaprodk These things often have several games on one chip/blob. Id bet that they custom code them all for some cheap cpu,. Id go for 8051/PIC?
They usually use NES-on-a-chip.
It doesn't have any real arcade games.
th-cam.com/video/HnS7dm2H8Mk/w-d-xo.html
i brought one of these hoping to use for a project...took it apart soon as i got it home...when i put it back together i had the same issue with the screen..i took it apart again, checked the ribbon which was fine, and couldnt see any other issues, decided to put it all back together securely and return it as DOA...but to my surprise it actually worked..and still works fine today!
Did you check the power supply ?
Rule Number One: Thou Shalt Test Voltages.
Yep, 3.3V. Didn't get that on camera.
Did you check the contrast setting voltage?
Same problem happened to my niece's mini game console purchased from Jaycar. Different branding but identical internals.
I'm planning to run a hot iron along the ribbon cable near the PCB, but hold little hope of it working. There's not much else to go wrong in there.
Might be a fun project upgrading the cabinet to a RetroPie! You could do a video documenting the conversion.
Interesting to know it's not a one-off fault.
Next project :- build the "equivalent" from scratch using a raspberry pie.
Objectives 1) Toy for Sagan 2) Interesting project for some of the subscribers 3) To finally shut up all those who goes on about the raspberry pie each time a retro console is shown that does not use a raspberry pie.
yes please
Zendal Darkman Yeh, that's a more appropriate use for that BroadCom SoC that boots from a serial flash or SD card and contains a built-in LCD/video driver. Wonder if that CoB could be the main chip from an RPi 1 model A, with the flash chip doing the job of the SDcard.
Raspberry pie?! Yummy.
@@mattmoreira210 They are!
-Doug- Dave is not that kind of guy to...
Issue with contrast, bad ceramic cap? Just a guess...
Yep, that was going to be my next plan of attack until it fell off the bench :-/
You can still do it. Half of the image is still visible.
I just did the same, Trying to fix 55" (140cm) Tv. I'd just found the problem when I cracked the screen - I nearly cried !!!
I found a 65" and I can't believe how big the LCD is, just turning it over makes me feel the screen will break! If I was a repair shop I'd have some sort of moveable drafting table type support mechanism to hold it and move it around without flexing.
volvo09 Make sure it has an adjustable curve for those curved screens! May I suggest a soft winter duvet as a home solution. It is soft and big enough, and is routinely wrapped in a temporary cloth in case of spillage or glass shards.
Since flexing the main PCB changed things, and it didn't appear cracked, my guess is bad bond wires. That's always BER. If it's a packaged chip, swap it out, COB, replace the board if you can get the board, otherwise replace the unit. (Salvage anything worth it, but the only thing that looks salvageable at all was the LCD before it was dropped, and that connection looks like buggery to reuse, so..)
those carbon conductive jumpers seem like a good thing to check. they're not going to be current carrying, so signals only, possibly for the lcd and if one went bad it would be easy to check and easy to fix.
lol. Not the ending I was expecting with all that ribbon foreplay
Generally when you can't see an LCD image straight on, there's (perhaps) a missing polarization film. Maybe it was separate piece that Sagan may have pulled off?
That would be a damn weird LCD design that put the polarization payer above the top glass.
Buy a new LCD :P maybe insert a raspberry and load some old true MAME games :P
Don't those displays eventually die if they are not driven correctly suggesting a design fault?
Or a design feature.
I wonder if the glue that holds the foamy in place could be conductive or possibly corroding traces.
Have you tried turning it off and back on again?
Love the IT crowd.
Ha ha ha. Going to watch it now.
a few months ago, i dumped the eeprom in one of these. It was interesting as I was trying to reverse engineer the software and get NES Games running on it... didn't get them to play unfortunately... why though try though? Why not...
the SO-8 package is the eeprom that contains games
It's still fixable. Give it another gentle go at it.
Do you reckon they put those together at a TV remote factory when there aren't any remote orders coming in? They've got all the equipment, the blow-molding for the casement and the single sided PCB with the carbon jumpers.
Is it possible that the batteries are too low for the processor to send the right signals?
I was gonna say try a sledgehammer but you did something close enough.
You mean a Widlariser???
It looks like the brighter 'stripes' are exactly where the text is. I've had this problem once with an OLED display, which turned out to be a power supply issue.
The problem is that it looks like everything that could be generating the voltages is COB or COG. You generally cannot repair those, and even if you could, replacing them is much easier and generally cheaper.
Is there anyway to fix the joy con on these? Found a nice one at a thrift store but the joy con won’t work sadly
Cracking job there... :P
On a more positive note, you could use the case to build a RetroPi mini-cabinet out of it, give the kids more (and better) games to play on it too... :)
*snort*
This is my Modus Operandi. Try to fix it but end up finishing breaking it. Then buy a new one.
high five! i still wear this one inch scar above my left hand thumb from when using scissors i was disassembling cable steering toy car when i was 4 or 5. a deep and wide wound, but not much blood, no tendons/vessels injured >_<
nowadays i still do repair-attempty teardowns, but without any major accidents =]
Dave, you cannot test LCD's the way you did by pressing on the connections or freezing it. LCD like those are not dumb ones like in your meter. You have to send commands to it to initialize it. There is a crap load of registers in there. So even if one line had a bad connection and it didn't get initialized property and later you pressed the ribbon and i made contact it still would not work. You need to power on/off each time to really check it.
Are you sure about “carbon jumpers”, used as jumpers? I’ve seen them used as resistors...
Really looks like a too low LCD driving voltage. When this happens, you start to see a striped pattern because the the rest of the lines with white text is darker as the white text pixels don't consume energy. LCD typically uses high gate drive voltages from 15 to 30 Vpp. Those voltage are generated by a charge pump, that's what all the capacitors on the FPC are for. The problem might be there or on the main board.
Well, A+ for effort even if you couldn't fix it.
What is that black blob on the chip made of, and is there any solvent that can dissolve it?
It’s a thermoset epoxy. Nitric acid does the job usually Audio tells me it’s an NES COB clone inside. They’ve been making single-chip NES clones since the mid 90s
You fixing your sons electronic toys = Elon Musk fixing Tesla issues.
was it made in 2011 and does it use the AMD GPU as found in the 2011 macbook pro... which exhibit the same symptom !
Looks similar to the results of older handhelds like the Sega Gamegear with bad capacitors, but I didn’t see any obvious passives on that board that would cause it.
Contrast or brightness control gone crazy perhaps?
this
There are some test pads under the ribbon cable that let you adjust brightness and contrast. Changes reset after power-off though.
Spend $100 to send it to Louis and then he can spend $400 to send it back.
With all the many layers of optical magic going on in these things, and the fact that the image is visible from the side, and not straight on, i'm suspecting one of the layers may have shifted ever so slightly, from a drop or similar.
Now that it's FUBAR'd it could be interesting to take the display apart and play a little with the internals to see how it affects the image.
Had almost the same thing with the Galaga mini arcade; game played fine but screen was whited out. Tried messing with it but in the end bought another.
The only way to redeem yourself after this compounded fail is to replace the little screen with a 15"LCD monitor and convert the game into a durable table top machine. Sagan deserves no less!
i have seen this twice before on parallel LCDs ... once it was a signal integrity issue (i think thats likely because of the lines) and once due to bias voltage, i assume it would be too high but in my case it was caused by the voltage going too high and the LCD never recovering (probing oopsies)
Depending on what kind of display it is, the display could have an integrated capacitive boost supply. In that case, maybe a cracked ceramic cap?
Does this work for the mini arcade from dave and busters that are keychains
I think that the lines before it cracked were caused by a micro crack on the display driver.
Does anyone know if the Micro Player Retro Arcade Street Fighter Joystick can be replaced? Having trouble finding a similar joystick online....
I know all about the lines. Here's what you should do to fix it:
Step 1. Film a repair video.
Step 2. Fail.
Step 3. Buy a new one (with cash).
Step 4. Give "repaired" unit to your impressed son, wife none the wiser.
Sagan will be pissed that you broke his toy. On second thought he is such a good natured kid he’ll probably say “Oh well” and continue soldering components on his current project.
6:10 you can clearly see a short between two of the connections there's like a tiny little bead of solder shorting out, look
I am shocked Dave didn't make a tiny quarter to give his kid to put into the machine to make it more authentic, that would be cool if you did that.
Whats the reason that they glue the chip with black glue, seen this on calculators etc?
Look onto COB if you're curious. I've never used them so I don't know a whole lot about it, but basically it's not a regular IC under there, it's just a bare die(or Chip On Board) connected with itty bitty bond wires(similar to what's inside of the black package of a typical integrated circuit). Without some sort of compound covering and securing it all to the board the tiny die and bond wires would be left flapping around and easily damaged. Plus if someone took apart the device it was in and was able to poke about at the COB there would be pretty much a 100% chance it would be damaged beyond repair, so encapsulating everything to the board makes things a whole lot more secure and less prone to damage.
If you soldered a couple wires to a PCB then connected the other end of those wires to a big piece of cardboard, when the cardboard moves the PCB and wires would move all over the place and experience fatigue until they broke. Now if you coated the entire thing in hot glue then when you shook the cardboard the wires and PCB wouldn't be jolted around and there would be no fatigue were the wires connect to the PCB anymore. Scale things down quite a bit, replace the PCB with the chip on board, replace the wires with bond wires, and the cardboard with the main board the COB is connected to and it's the same principle.
Looks almost like the contrast control is set improperly. Bad resistor somewhere? (Although how you break a resistor without burning it up is beyond me)
Well, now you’ve figured out what one of the problems is.
These clear plastic flatflex is prone to crack tracks._
I got a tetris micro arcade and it said it was new but the tetris micro arcade had a crack on the screen and didnt turn on can someone help me where I can repair it
Don't feel bad, you weren't the first person to drop the thing. Besides, it was made a bit how you doing anyway....
I would say the LCD polarization voltage is wrong... Maybe one of those capacitors on the flex cable?
Hand it over to the signalpath, so we can see the block diagrams ;-)
9:40... Well... That solves that problem....LOL
From experience, while you're not wrong about it being an ASIC, I can do one better. What you're probably looking at is a "Nintendo on a chip", NOAC, or "Famiclone". It's all the hardware of an original Nintendo, 6502+audio and graphics processor, all condensed down into a single chip. Early ones would just break out connectors for a cartridge port, but newer versions can read ROM files directly from something like an SPI flash chip, or even SD card.
They're incredibly cheap, and nearly all 8-bit Chinese consoles use them as their core. Every "NES Classic" ripoff I've seen was using one. Rather than the linux host OS running an emulator of the genuine "NES Classic", the clones would just have a NES ROM that looked like the genuine units interface that would then go on to load other ROMs.
(More modern ones have been extended to the point at which they're barely even recognisable as a NES, but will still fall back to playing the original NES roms if presented with them)
At 6:17 it looks like R2 on the flex cable is missing. The remaining solder blobs look a little bit like it was present before and has fallen/broken off, but the edge of the image is too blurry to be sure.
Dump that winbond eeprom
Tell me the game didn't have some sort of contrast adjustment in there.
I'd check the caps. Looks like analog fault, that's dependent on the data "density".
Soic8 is a quad flash EEPROM from which code is run (very much like an ESP8266)
240 in 1. One of mine is 240 the other is 200. My first one was last Dec in a local store but died after a few hours when it started to flicker and sometimes reset then eventually would not power up. I got a refund as they had no more stock but a few days later a return showed up and I ordered one on eBay.
What is the purpose for covering the IC into those "black blobs"?
I got so excited what the fault could be and you dropped it .....
Many argue that it's to make reverse engineering more difficult, but it's not. It's cheaper, and very compact. Sure, with BGA packages you can pack a lot of pins under a tiny package. But with chip on board technology you can do this with a single sided PCB. Another advantage is lower pin capacitances, thus it is sometimes used in radio transceivers.
Pause the video at 8:50 then set the playback speed to the slowest, then you'll see at around 8:53 that the screen is working.
I don't think so. The screen was lit for half of the frame only so the camera saw the LCD dim.
Yep. I see it too. Just one frame.
Mine got wet just a little it won’t turn on is it fixable
maybe condensation killed it by shorting somewhere?
When you can find the cause you have to dig really deep and replace components. This item is beyond economic repair.
Just starting EE and having your first roadblock isn't nice either.
That's one way to get out of a bad video! :-D
My arcade has a black screen, I hear but the screen does not work
Why don’t build a RPI in it for the kids?
Looks like an NES-On-A-Chip to me~ This is probably an old ASIC that designed in the 90s Taiwan. This is a cheap (and poor) solution to integrate a whole NES console in one epoxy blob. I can get one of this ASIC board for 3 USD in China.
Open resistor on the flex cable for the LCD backlighting?
Video starts:
Dave: HOiii
Well, that’s certainly one way to get out of having to fix an annoying board!
Hope you're feeling better.
I am, thanks. Now Mrs EEVblog is sick!
Put it back together and tell Sagan you found the problem, its broken!
check the caps/resistors on the lcd ribbon itself
I think that's sabotage poor kid lol if you can't repair it break it
We find that Sagan has his own channel of him cleverly damaging electronics for Dave to try to repair.
@@gblargg pretty sure John was suggesting...
"Shit... I'm being outsmarted by some bloody cheap electronics on TH-cam"
*Quick squeeze with some pliers*
"Sorry Sagan, I couldn't fix it. Here have a new one."
goneski now Sagan wants a newski
Looks like gamma/contrast circuit problem.
Sometimes I'm confused by what I think is really obvious. But what I think is really obvious obviously isn't obvious.
I vote for signal issue as it's showing green above all else but I am unfamiliar with type of signal it sends to lcd chip.
This is the type of electronics youtube video I could do heh
DIY privacy scree... oops nevermind...
This looks like cracked cob. It can be verified under the microscope if you peel off protective compound and look at the chip in reflected light.
Unless he removed it chemically rather than mechanically there's a pretty good chance he'd damage the die in the process of breaking off the potting, leaving no discernable way to tell if any cracks were preexisting or a direct result of exposing the COB.
You sound like a older Morty
so are these bond wires done by hand?
On the IC?
@@rkan2 yeah. The bond wires from the die to the PCB under the blob are they done by hand? I assume joining bond wires from the die to the legs inside an IC package are automated but still not sure about that either. Just figure they must be automated to keep costs down.
The spacing of the bond wires is less than 0.1mm. I'd be impressed if someone could do those by hand.
No, it would have to be done by machine, surely.
My guess would have been a capacitor. You get similar problems with Sega Game Gears.
There isn't any on the board...
Original problem: not sure what's wrong.
Solution: break the LCD
Results: know what the problem is. xD
Eh, could've been the panel itself anyways...
Could it be a defective contrast circuit?
I think the controller on the LCD died
Design a new LCD screen, maybe a fancy IPS stuff
you can buy the display on aliexpress it will be cheap
Of course, but I (we) think it is interesting to fix!
he figured out the cern pcb but this one's too difficult for him