Still Running Too Hot! // TT Quattro Cooling System Problem
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- First Drive with the TT to get measured for a custom exhaust and its still running too hot! Audi 1.8T Cooling system troubleshooting.
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The driver is too hot. The TT’s cooling system is inadequate 😉.
Very true!!!
Hah Teetertot is too happy to see her xD
Most definitely Hot....
These things are pretty notorious for being a bit difficult to get the last air pocket out. Park it on flat ground if possible while cool, remove the expansion tank cap, and start the engine. Let the engine run until the fans start running - make sure the A/C is not on.
Once it runs for a while and the engine runs, it will drain the expansion tank fairly rapidly. Fill it back up to the full line. Continue to let it run...it might drain a little more but it should be bled out at this point.
Hi Sarah, the fans running at high should run at high when the A.C. is on, switch to Econ on the HVAC and they then should only run at half speed when needed. The thermostat you fitted, was it genuine VAG? Only a genuine VAG Tstat (87 deg c) should be fitted. Just my thoughts from a cold north west of England :)
You need to have your antifreeze tested for hydrocarbons ! This will conform or rule out a head gasket leak, block problem ? Good luck !
i had a similar problem with my MGB i tried Wetter Water by Red Line and i brought my temps back in line. Cheaper than a new rad. a second thought, are the fans running in the right direction ⁇ i had a blower motor wired backward from fresh from the parts store
rayray3009 I have Wetter Water in there already.
If the over heating trouble was not there prior to replacing the water pump. It is possible you've got an air pocket. The Audis have a lot plumbing. Making it difficult to remove an air pocket. If you can buy barrow or rent a vac-lift to remove the air pocket. Then refill the cooling. You'll need to drain the cooling system. To help remove the air pocket. ( It's probably in the heater core. ). Good luck! Merry Christmas!
It is possible that one of your new parts could be faulty so don't rule them out because they're new. There are some poor quality aftermarket parts out there. You need one of those infrared thermometers to measure actual coolant temperature and compare it to what comes up on your laptop. You can pick one up cheap on Amazon or add it to your wish list. This would determine if you've got the wrong spec temp sender fitted. Genuine temp senders from the local dealer might be reasonably priced (not everything is expensive from the dealer). Another possibility is that the cooling system needs a flush. Others have said that it could be a partially blocked radiator. Whatever the problem is, I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of it.
I have the same exact problem with my 2001 tt and I am so dissapointed to know that after all the fixes you have done (which I have only done like 3 or 4 including the thermostat) this car will keep on running hot, now I am aware of the waste of money that I was willing to do, unfortunate that you spent quite some money to get the same results, thank you for being so informative in your videos. Peace
Some cars cycle fans on and off when your in test / diag mode (my blob eye WRX does this)
Test for combustion gasses in coolant?
the 1.8t doesnt do this though, on edc16 it does if the ecu thinks it has ac and it cant see it on can
I would suggest to check the real temp in the climate codes - in a TT you cannot trust the gage. Here you can see how to do it: wak-tt.com/tt/climatecontcodes.htm Check channel 49 if the temperature matches the gage temp or not. Fans should turn on 1st stage at 98C and Stage 2 at 105C -but that shouldn't affekt the gage. It should stay right in the middle.
You should check the electrical temperature switch, its on the left chassis side member. It's turning ON the first stage of cooling and it should start a fan at 70*C. Lot of water and mud like to get there so it can get dirty and probably needs replace. The second Stage of cooling starts at 100*C and its controlled by the module. So check the left side of the frame and look for this switch. If it won't help its maybe by the exhaust gasses in the system and they can get into it by e.g. EGR valve gasket .But i didnt seen any white smoke from under the car so i would reject this option. (So sorry for my probably terrible english) Good Luck :D
Hey Sarah, I currently own a 225 TT, one thing to check is the auxiliary water pump. Mine is located near the top of fans, the hose on the bottom of the expansion tank leads straight to it. Also I've had to have my cluster rebuild because my temperature gauge was faulty reading higher than normal. Just an idea!
One more thing, be careful if you ever remove the cluster from the car, the soldering on them aren't the best and if they begin to micro crack and start to short, the car won't start since the immobilizer is located on the cluster.
Make sure you have the air con switched off becouse the fans will run all the time , and the temp on hot and switch inside fans of this Is to bleed the system
This also defrost will kick on AC, as well as fans
To verify your radiator is doing its job use a non contact thermometer on the lower and upper radiator hose. The temperature variation will tell you a bunch of different things. If your coolant temps are very similar hose to hose then you have a heat exchange issue eg air flow, or corroded radiator. If the temps have a reasonable drop between them the system is working appropriately and the source of heating is within the engine itself. If you have a massive drop the cooling system is not circulating fluid at all and could be blocked due to air in the system or plugged radiator. Of course this will happen before the entire system over temps and the coolant is “saturated” with the heat it’s attempting to remove. So it’s best to try this on a cool engine and warm it up checking it. Good luck, I’m sure you’ll figure it out👍
I'd think it was a partially blocked radiator...
I'd start with bleeding & rebleeding the coolant, release hoses & check no air is trapped etc. Then remove the thermostats & test that they actually open fully by heating them in water on your cooker. then i;d look at pulling the radiator & back flushing it with a garden hose, but if the coolant was pretty clean when you got the car this is probably unnecessary. Finally, was it an OEM water pump? some cheaper aftermarket models have really rubbish impeller designs that just don't flow as much coolant for a given rpm.
I am thinking your TT is running very lean. The leaner, the warmer the engine! When driving "fast" there is much more cooling by drive wind. At idle there is less cooling and the temp is rising a little, while the combustion is running too hot... And it can actually damage your valves when driving to long. And because I think you don't have a control o2 sensor on the car, because no cat, the ECU doesn't "know" what your AFR is. So you have to wait until the exhaust is on. Good luck!
(Btw; Audi and also BMW have 2 variants of thermostats. One for cold counties and the other for normal or hot countries. At BMW's they differ 4 degrees Celsius. Maybe this difference is even bigger for Audi 's ).
MrNicoe36cabrio mine is starting to sometimes overheat and I have a vacuum leak which is causing it to run too lean.... you may be spot on man
Do an engine block test you can rent it from autozone. Just did this on my Cadillac even though there isnt any cross contamination of fluids my test failed. I didn’t believe it till i saw it.
Your temperature sensor might be wrong , you might need to flush the radiator or clean the ac condenser and radiator of debris .
my c6 corvetter dont open up till 220 i think you are in normal operating temps
Hopefully not the headgasket. Diag=diagnose.
Cheers.
For the fans on with key on, check fuses 5 and 16 in the LH side dash fuse block, they're control power to the J293.
The way it's acting, I would be looking hard at that t-stat. The one you got is set a couple degrees higher(192F vs stock 190F to start opening) but that alone shouldn't cause it. I've definitely had bad new thermostats before, at least this one is easy to replace! I can't find a spec on that Murray one for opening travel, stock is minimum 7mm. Which could easily justify it staying cool when you're flowing more. I use the Mahle(they bought Behr a while back) PN TX1487D. These radiators don't clog very often. Is the air coming through the radiator warm? You should be able to go into VCDS and do a gauge needle test, to verify that center is on center, but I think it will be with it there until you're under load.
Thanks for showing us that idle issue! It sounded like fuel pressure sank down. Could be either the check valve in the pressure side, or more likely just the fuel pressure regulator in the rail sinking down, cheap and easy to throw at it.
You had the V64 fault the first time you hooked up VCDS, it might be as simple as just the connector being dirty on the ABS modulator, two big wires that kind of bypass the module and go the the pump on the backside are your power/ground for it. Might want to try calibrating the G251, the login code for ABS(if your VCDS doesn't pop it up) is 40168, data block 69(really) in Basic Setting.
Another great video! Hope you find some time to relax for the holiday!
Dave I live for comments like this! ❤️
Hope it's a little bit useful! I think my other comment might actually be more on target though. T-stats are cheap(the coolant is the pricey bit!) but since it's not that quick and easy to swap, might want to try this first...
With VCDS, I would check 2 things, both under 17 - Instruments.
--Function 03-Output Test should have a gauge sweep, that will set the temp to dead on center, make sure that's where it goes. Press start/go to make things happen.
--Then 08-Measuring Blocks, Display Group '03' will show you the calculated coolant temp inside the cluster. With a new G2 sensor you just installed, if it differs from the temp you see in your engine ecu, you know the problem is going to be internal to the cluster. There are some companies that can fix this if you send it off, but personally, as long as it's steady, I'd live with it. I can look into seeing if there's a way to change the offset, but don't know for your cluster off hand.
The sensor is an NTC, so if it were high resistance in the wiring between the sensor and the cluster, temp would indicate lower than actual.
I don't have my VCDS or an Audi in front of me right now, so the names might be a little off, but the values should be what you need, they're common ones I use regularly.
Oh, and see if priming the fuel system before cranking with a couple of 3 second key on-off cycles helps with the startup issue.
Ok, wait, damnit... I just got to the same place you were at with this just not making sense!
When you two drove it back when you bought it, was the gauge sitting a notch up while cruising? If not, it's probably not in the cluster, and I'd be back at t-stat.
Damnit, just let us know how you fix it!
This is what a 5 star comment looks like.
Hi Sarah
Until you get the dashboard missing pixels sorted out you will have all sorts of unexplained faults and weird stuff happening to the TT
This is a very common issue on the Audi TT
Great video, Sarah. My hunch is a partially restricted radiator. You've probably gotten all the air out of the cooling system, so the radiator would be the prime suspect. Aluminum radiators aren't repairable, so a new one may be in order. Happy Thanksgiving too!
Stephen Moxley that wad my guess. A restricted water jacket but my experience is with mechanical systems.
With everything else in the cooling system new, there's only one thing left. The radiator. Seeing as how the car is over ten years old and the radiator is probably original, it's very likely that the tubes are full of scale and corrosion. Especially since Sarah confirmed that the wrong coolant was in the car, previous to her ownership of it. Another point to consider is the fact that she plans to "track" the car. If I were going that route, I'd replace the radiator on general principal. I'd hate to overheat at a track day, because I ignored a marginal radiator. I'd want to know that everything in the cooling system was fresh...and working properly. Let's see what Ms. Sarah comes up with?
Correct
Check out the fuse block on the battery. They have an issue where they get high resistance which burns up the fuse block. You can visually inspect the fuse block or check resistance on the power side of the circuit.
One note, I suspect this issue is very likely to be electrical component or wiring related. The fans cycling with the key in the Acc position is not normal operation. You also have logged the temp which seems to not exceed 99 deg c. This leads me to believe the car is not actually overheating.
In terms of the instrument customer, its not likely to be this. While MK1 TTs had a bunch of cluster issues, it shouldn't have any affect on the weird fan operation. Solve this fan issue this should solve your problem.
Hope this helps
Paul
4:27 "Que Sarah, Sarah" would be a nice name for your home.
I had have the same temperature issue with a VW Golf MK4 and it turn to be the temperature bulb, the one that goes on the radiator, there are 2 kinds of temperature bulbs, one that turns on the fans at 93 degrees and the other one turns then on at high temperature, just replace the bulb and works perfectly, Im new to the channel and you are pretty funny, love your videos, cheers from Guadalajara!! Thats in Mexico btw
There's air in the cooling system. To blead it run the car with the heater turned on full blast and the coolant cap off. You'll see a steady stream flowing back into the resivor when the air is fully out.
rivmchl that’s exactly what I did in the video 🤷🏻♀️
Two more suggestions... a stubborn air pocket can still fit the rpm issue where higher rpms push water past the air pocket without pushing it through. Try giving the beans going up a steep hill. Also, if you go forward with the vacuum purge, use what you’ve got and use a rag and your shop vac at the reservoir fill.
Regarding heater. Not only that. I own b7 a4. On those cars there is air release 10mm bolt right on top of the return pipe. There is also air release hole on heater core return pipe. There is (OMG those cars are ridiculous) vent on turbo itself. U have Bently -there should be described the whole process of changing coolant and releasing air. Without proper air bleading there will be persisted symptoms of overheating, not working t-stats, lack of power, fans continue running on highs or lows. Basically all symptoms that I see happened to that car so far.
I tend to start with heat on full blast and if no heat from vents then run the engine at 2k rpm until you feel heat. Then let it idle checking the vents to see if heat is coming out at idle. Keep repeating this until there is constant heat coming out at idle. It could take a lil while to get all the air out.
@@1982DrH as far as I figure out there is some sort of flapper that opens up only completely warmed engine. Las time I did flush I poured in 5 gallons of coolant and did air release procedures. After that I continued to work on car and suddenly realized that my expansion tank was completely empty. I thought that there was a leak, but there was not. So poured another 4/5 gallons in and did air release procedures again. Now this time heater blows really hot air, temperature stays normal, eve engine runs smoother. No height rpms as it could overheat engine really quickly ( coolant DO boils really quick in mixture with air under vacuum conditions
Sarah does the TT have an undertray? If it doesn't it could be cycling hot air from te fans back to the front of the radiator, wich would make it overheat overtime at standstill. Undertray's prevent this from happening by blocking the underside of the engine bay, forcing the air towards the firewall. If it was air in your cooling system or a bad pump etc it would be running hot while driving because of a much higher engine load.
T.E.S. Productions No, it’s missing.
Love the F4U Corsair clip early in! ;-)
If it really is a 14 year old radiator, it is overdo to becoming a piece of trash anyway. Had an engine going to 228 then back down only on long highway travel. Finally the radiator cracked at the usual return place. Replaced radiator and the engine held steady temp every since. Be patient. Some of the freakiest things cause failure. Yesterday we had a bad pvc hose throwing a #1 cylinder misfire code. WTF? Replaced hose that had hardened ends and the bugger stopped throwing misfire code. Banging Head !
Those instrument clusters go bad all the time
It's not the cluster. U can test the actuators
Sarah, lift the front of the TT up as high as you can get it , then crack open the highest coolant hose , and pour coolant in or blast it with a garden hose. It should fill the air pocket and push out the air in the system.
Otherwise the temp sensor is out of calibration, giving a false reading. Just some ideas.. Love your channel and your wit !! Ken
Either the radiator is partially blocked or there is still air in the system sometimes German cars need the cooling system vacuumed then filled with a special tool.
There are 2 thermostats, no?
Or the cylinderhead is broken? Or the seal?
Antonio Mano I had the same problem on my Camaro. When it was on the highway it would be running perfect, at idle it'll start to creep up. Found out the was an air pocket, so had it professionally flushed.
Doesn't need a special tool. The systems are self bleeding. You have to go through a couple heat cycles and open the coolant bubble up a couple times to release air and bubbles and squeeze the upper and lower coolant hoses.
My radiator had to bleed out to get the air out. It took a while but its awsome now.
Obviously missing the point here, but your fuel gauge...can you still buy leaded fuel in America??
Check the thermostat Sarah sometimes you get shitty one in a thousand. This could be ehy ehen the rpm's are up in the 3000 range its forcing the coolant past the thermostat but on low revs its not passing through quick enough as its restricted???
I would take tje thermostat out put the housing back on and give it a run without any thermostat at all Sarah amd see what the temp is like then. Also the fams shouldn't be constantly running they should only kick in when it gets to a certain temp then once its back down then they should cut out. Also yes the old extra hole drilled works too. All check to see if your top and bottom hoses aren't sucking them selves flat. All in all but ill put my $0.99cents on the thermostat Sarah. If im wrong i send ya the 99c lol. Another thing to think of but its a very big long shot amd hope for you that you dont have blocked galleries in the block 😬😬
Open the heater also i could be the heater tap or restricted heater core. Sorry Sarah dont mean to dishearten you but its a process of elimination
A water pump will not force a thermostat open, they don't develop enough pressure. If the bottom hose was collapsing, it would happen at higher rpm's, not at idle or on cruise.
A heater core being blocked won't cause this issue.
@@TyphoonVstrom if the thermostat is only part way open then its restricting the coolant flow therefore under higher rpm's it would force the coolant flow faster
You don't have a clue, stop commenting.
Audi's cooling system arr fragile with air. I think you need to bleed the system. I did own an Audi but not a TT. But i am sure the is a bleeding port around the thermostat...
Clogged radiator.. .
G'day Sarah - n - Sarah! I really wanted a camouflage shirt, but I couldn't find one. Lol! 🤣 We'll gather on this coming day to be thankful for what we have, for the family we love, the friends we cherish, and for the blessings that will come. Happy Thanksgiving to you both!
By the way, suggesting: A classic symptoms of air in the cooling system. What happens is an air pocket gets trapped somewhere in the system, and does not allow the coolant to flow properly. When this happens, it creates a 'steam pocket' that does not allow coolant flow; hence, the overheat. When the air pocket moves (higher RPMs) and things begin to cool down, things go back to normal for a while until the air accumulates again. The process continues until the air is purge from the system.
Any time you open a cooling system for service, obviously you must purge the air from the system. If you don’t, you get an air pocket and the symptoms described.
Instead of using something like a spill-free funnel, use the expansion tank itself as the funnel. First, don't fill it up all the way; this will allow the coolant to expand during the bleeding process. The coolant level will rise as the engine gets hot, so be prepared for that. Do everything else the same. The only difference in purging the air in an expansion tank system is that you have an expansion tank instead of a radiator cap, on a radiator.
"When looking at the engine bay from the front of the car, locate the two heater core coolant lines passing thru the firewall. Unclamp the left one, and pull the rubber hose back until you see the air bleed hole. Unscrew, and lift coolant expansion tank as high as it will go (4 inches) and fill until no more air comes out the air bleed hole. Run the engine, and check for normal heat operation. The coolant expansion tank is below the gravity level of the heater core lines, so this procedure is used to remove all air from the coolant system." Thank you!
Cheers! 😊🛠🦃💕✌🏼
Try touching the rad to see if it's hot. If the rad and the bottom hose are cool, then your thermostat is not opening. I would think that one of your connectors has a broken wire. Happens to me a lot. The thermostat is computer controlled. I dont think your thermostat is receiving a signal to open, thus staying shut and overheating. If you kept your old one, you can try emptying it out so its just open always, and bolt that on. If you run cool now you know your issues was electrical and you can now run your car while tracing wires. If not that you have bigger issues...
This is a dumb t-stat, no heater element. Even on the ones with a heater, they still have a mechanical element, the heater is turned on when engine load dictates prior to the system being at temp, which is always a good time to floor it!
The coolant plumbing that is outside of the engine is basically a racetrack, which dead ends at the thermostat. It's a cork, Sarah's car is overheating like mine did, because the cork is not opening, and this can simply be solved by emptying out the thermostat of the said cork. You can try and figure out which wires do what on the thermostat connector, and trace those and see where the break or short is. I just basically think that converting everything to mechanically/manually controlled is the way to go
I think you should stop posting suggestions. I've NEVER seen any vehicle with an electronically controlled thermostat for the cooling system.
It’s and all electric thermostat with a connector but it’s definitely not electronically controlled tho 👍👌
It is conceivable that someone put a higher opening temperature thermostat in the car. It is not the wisest thing to do in Arizona and in a turbocharged car, but not everybody is wise. If you havent yet figured out the issue, you can remove the t-stat and do the stovetop boil test to see what temp it opens at. Also, t-stats can be rated at one temp but actually function at a lower or higher temp than is rated. If all is well with the t-stat, you may be needing to replace the water pump....assuming you have bled the air out of the system and have flushed the coolant and replaced with new.
Bad thermostat?
This channel is the best thing to happen to me. Always enjoy seeing you Sarah! Keep up the good work!
It sounds like a "marginal cooling ability". Your need to get your infrared hand held Thermometer out from were ever it is hiding. If you don't know the numbers you don't know wear to start. I will try and find some numbers for you.
agreed. you definitely need an external reference point and not number that are coming from a unknown faulty system. also... at this point it almost seems like it's worth your while to get that bleeder
It's gotta be;
Air pocket
Thermostat
Or the radiator is partially blocked/clogged
Hi Sarah! Search for a video called 'Audi TT Climatronic Climate Control Panel codes' it shows how to get digital readings from a ton of sensors on the TT mk1 including water temp, engine temp etc it was very helpful for me when I had issues with my TT.
wonder if your thermostat is stuck partially closed????
Maybe there is something wrong with the water pump. I had one I replaced before and the impeller broke lose on the shaft.
My friend had a golf mk4 GTI 1.8T that had the same problem after new timing belt, it was also the waterpump where the impeller broke lose on the shaft, it was a plastic impeller, he got one with a metal impeller and it fixed the problem
A broken impeller will result in immediate and complete overheating-- don't ask how I know.
I had this happen on a 2001 Seat Ibiza Cupra (Same Engine as the TT) there was a crack on the impeller, which at idle would rotate but as soon as any load was placed upon it would stop. Replacing the Water Pump fixed this instantly.
@@marmalizer8128 I had a truck years ago that I replaced the engine about two months later it started running hot only at idle. The impeller broke lose from the shaft and was still kind of spinning. At a idle it wasn't spinning enough , so it only ran hot at idle. Only reason I found the problem fast was because I heard a tiny little noise coming from the front of the engine. Then I took the water pump off and saw it was broken.
@@51mercpa27 I can verify your experience. It was no fun at all. Car had less than 50k miles on it too.
What was the problem???? I have the same issue okl n my tt mk1..
Is your radiator plugged somewhere might need flushing have a good Thanksgiving to both of you.
Could be the flux capacitor. Did you get it up to 88 mph?
That's what it says on the haynes owners manual.
Santa Six yeah. Who put that in there?
No more. Hayns manuals
These are known for water pumps but you did that... i noticed when you did the cap thing it seemed to go down way too fast perhaps do this just be sure first th-cam.com/video/lBDKlKYpk3E/w-d-xo.html sounds like you are pushing the airlock out at high rpms
Isn't 99°C normal? My car runs between 98 and 102 all the time! It's a different car, a Golf R. Not sure how much that matters
No its nor normal
@@lookiSVK what's normal for that car then. I know it's normal for mine.
@@Sold_a_dummy optimal temperature is 90 degrees. All temperaturrs which are above can lead to deformation of head (long therm using)
@@lookiSVK For all cars? The reason I ask is that I bought my car in 2016, new. Temps have always been between 98 and 102. Highway it goes up to 101 or so, slower driving around 99. Not saying youre wrong obviously, just dont think that rule goes for all, or I have a defective car!
@@lookiSVK ok, I'm daft! I was looking at oil temps...
... Nothing to see here...
Carry on!
loose radiator hose clamp/fitting. Could be the slightest bit off, but enough to cause an annoyance.
Here is a really stupid idea: the exhaust system is a heat sink. The TT has no exhaust system. It's cooling system was calibrated with an exhaust system. Therefore, it does not work correctly without the heat sink. Stupid idea, I know!
Maybe not a stupid idea. At idle or low speed the engine bay might be getting heat soaked.
Definitely not stupid. That makes sense. Good call👍
Not a stupid idea at all ... also since the O2 sensors are yet to be installed the fuel management could be running lean causing the engine to run hot.
I hate to be the odd one out, and there are no stupid ideas, but... I don't think that's the case.
It very well could be I would wait till you get the exhaust before replacing anymore on TT, I was also thinking about a blocking in the radiator or the block.
Hey Sarah I had five 1.8T in my life till now.
First of all. Do the Fans start before the Temp is rising above 90C?
If they start and Temp is still rising it can be a bad thermostat, bad radiator or a bad waterpump.
Thermostat is easy to check:
Start cold engine and touch the coolant hose which goes to the radiator. In the first time it should stay cold. After a few minutes the hose should be getting realy hot. If not the Thermostat is not opening or opens not wide enough.
Checking Radiator:
Check temperatur from the „inlet“ and „outlet“ hose from the Radiator when the engine is hot and stands still. If there is no significant difference (Fans must run) the radiator can be bad.
Waterpump:
Is a big problem of these engines. Which manufacturer did you install? There are a lot of pumps on the open market which did not work properly especially with low engine RPM!
Take the outgoing hose from the radiator down and start the Engine. You will see if the waterpump did not convey enough water.
But be carefully with an hot cooling system!!!
I hope my english is understandable 😅
...FIVE??? so what is that, a disposable car?
stickloaf yes really 😂 150hp 163hp 180hp 210hp and 225hp.
I bought them with small problems, repaird them, drove them for about a year and reselled them for more. So I started with an A3 and at the end I had an S3..
The normal running temp for the 1.8Ts is 95C. I wouldn't be too worried about 99C. The second (full) fan speed comes on at about that temp. That said, your fans should not be cycling on and off like that. Log into the fan controller with VCDS and see what's triggering the fans to turn on and off like that. Also, that green coolant temp sensor has two circuits, one to the cluster and one to the engine ECU. I noticed you were looking at the reading from the engine ECU, but try also reading it from module 17 (instruments). On other Audis of that era, the gauge in the cluster is more of a dummy light than anything...it is programmed to show dead center at any temp between 78-105C. I don't recall if the TT was designed that way, but it's something to keep in mind.
Thanks, just ran the output tests for this now. Seems ok, center on the temp gauge showed half a needle width to the right.
Yup the TT should stick in the center so if its moving there is an issue
It’s 80-100 in Europe so running at 99 is a problem as you are close to dash movement threshold ideally the cars should be running temps closer to 90
Love MotionAutoTv. I got to ride in That Supra and it was incredible! Never too many cars I say.
Really hope you can figure out this cooling issue soon. Signs seem to be pointing to thermostat or radiator.
Check the cooling system after you have exhaust and O2 sensors
My thought exactly. It doesn't sound like it has absolutely no exhaust, that might cause underhood temps. to be up.
Check the Radiator and the Heater Core. Could be a Plugged Core or a slow leaking Heater Core in the car. If there is No Coolant smell in the car then that eliminates the Heater core. So all that would be left is the Radiator. Sarah a Normal Op temp for any car is 185-210. When it reaches 210 the Thermostat should have opened to send the colder coolant into the engine. Also What Temp Thermostat did you get? there are multiple Temps. Did you get the OE or did you get an Aftermarket Thermo?
Need to check if there is a internal coolant leak. Bad head gasket or cracked head.
There’s no cross contamination of oil and coolant and the temperature never rises above 99°C-that’s too precise in my opinion to be either of those two issues.
@@bpimpin6037 She picked it up in Salt Lake City.
If it was a gasket issue, the car wouldn't have made it back when she drove it home. I've dealt with plenty of head gasket issues, this isn't one.
@@TyphoonVstrom Not 100% I had a bad headgasket that would randomly leak exhaust gas into my radiator and overheat. The key is RANDOM... I drove 2 years like that and replaced EVERYTHING cooling related. thing is it would be fine if i drove local under 30-40 miles and after that it would be a 1 in 10 chance i would overheat on the freeway it was just very random and the cold hard truth is I really did not want to do a HG change .
You didn't have a head gasket randomly failing them getting better, you just think you did. Once a gasket fails, it does not magically restore itself....
Ah the joys of owning a German car. Hope you get it figured out!
Could be a dodgy thermostat Sarah
air? vacuum filed the coolant?
I agree it could be a bad new thermostat, it was an “autozone brand” thermostat.
@@SarahnTuned I have bought from autozone before and that was the problem. Stick to only Genuine Oem, ECS Tuning
b5 a4 same motor
@@SarahnTuned I agree with some of the other commentors. Certain AutoZone parts ppl should stay away from. Thermostats are one of them unfortunately.
IW WOULD DO A CYLINDER LEAKDOWN TEST, if it passes that then do a radiator pressure test, if it passes that thgen resurface the head and retest, this should eliminate the problem once and for all, replace the thermostat with a 190 while youre at it..
I know it's a bummer for you but I appreciate this kind of video where you have to do some sleuthing to sort out the problem. I'm confident you'll sort it out eventually.
Sarah, I'm still relatively new and behind on videos, but I wanted to jump ahead to wish you (and lil Sarah... and the kitties) a Happy Thanksgiving! Thx for your videos that always brighten my day!
According to TT Forum you may have a clogged oil pickup screen causing lack of oil to the top of the engine thereby creating the excessive heat.
Given how nice the top of the valvetrain looked in previous videos, I doubt it.
Clueless the the engine would be making noises. You and nine others have no idea
No SMH
Also stopped up oil pickup screen would effect everything not just top end and the car would have been seized up.
@@_i-kr6eg just reporting what I found in a relevant forum. No need to be insulting. Happy Thanksgiving.
Id get radiator checked , may be blocked not allowing flow
I bet that Laguna Seca edition Boss 302 is worth a lot more without the mods.
the regular Boss 302's are going between $36,000 and $40,000 depending on mileage. i have seen Laguna Seca's going $45,000 to $50,000. he won't get anywhere close to that if he goes to sell, and will never get his money back for those mods. It is his car however and to each his or her own.
NIAtoolkit ...that’s what I was thinking ....wasted a cool Stang!
There should be a bleeder screw you can open at operating temp. There may also be a bleed hole on the upper heater hose where it meets the heater core.
Yeah everyone in Germany know‘s this 1,8t Problem. The waterpump is went to hell because of the shitty plastic. We use a metal one from bartek. First the fuse box on Batterie go to hell after that the pump 😂. So if this shitty pump is gone befor. Maybe there is some plastic in the coolant system. But trust me the pump is gone try to take out the Thermostat
yes the water pump is also where i would look first, change the shitty plastic one with one a metal one
Happened to me.
She already replaced the water pump with a metal impeller.
this engine will over heat very quick if the waterpump fails though and you could tell its failed by the flow coming back to the coolant bottle ( put the pipe in a coolant bottle and give it a rev, it should flow faster at a higher rpm as its ran straight from the timing belt)
@@kleinbiker1 she did replace the water pump, but I believe it was with another plastic one. I vaguely remember her saying something about the metal impeller not reacting well with the coolant. I did the metal impeller pump on my Jetta between 40 and 50k miles (plastic one failed). Nearly 80k miles on the car now. The coolant ball does look a little gross, but the car has only seen G12 and distilled water. Maybe this is because of the metal impeller? When the water pump failed the plastic impeller broke free from the shaft. The car was not drivable at all. It would overheat almost immediately.
I don't know what it could possibly be. If the car is staying cooler at higher RPM I don't think it would be either the water pump or thermostat. I don't remember, was the fan control module new? If not, it could be faulty.
If the water pump is from an AUTOZONE store and not original AUDI, it will be using CHEAP ASS bearings. I did the comparison before I installed mine. I bought the GERMAN one
just before I installed the cheaper version. I tried to rotate the impellers with my hand and The cheap one from CHINA almost didn't even MOVE! The German Water pump rotated like BUTTER! Is the pump from AUDI? If not replace it with an ORIGINAL one.
Hey there fellow you tuber... so, I have an opportunity to buy a year 2000 awd Tater Tot that has only 50,000 miles/80,000 km’s. ($7500 Canadian)
But but but...
I am worried the TT might be something that needs a lot of work as times go.... or maybe I am thinking this because you tinker on Tater fairly often.??
What’s your thoughts 💭 girl?
Ward
Check your ac high and low pressure within “spec” for your car.
I had a vehicle that ran warm (fluctuated in fan high low) because ac Freon was to high/low only by a few oz. engine fans is tied into the ac pressures.
Wish u the best of luck !
so what did you find wrong ?
90-ish Celsius is normal and if 99C when idling sounds normal.
Just look in this forum for example: www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1031458
Edit: If I'm not mistaken it's okay between 85-105C ( depending on country/ climate )
I'm confused. Typically the thermostat opens at one temp and the fans turn on at another (higher) temp. The thermostat opens at around 180 but the fans usually don't turn on until 200 (this is in general, you probably know the actual numbers for the TT) So it would be normal for it to maintain 180 when you are driving and rise to 210 when you stop after it rises enough to trigger the fans.. As long as it stays below 220, I don't see the issue.
Happy Thanksgiving!! Did you do a cooling system flush? Thermostat in backwards? Try running without thermostat... Also, install a "mechanical" temp gauge.
niase certified mechanic here. 2 years college automotive training. Sounds like the radiator cannot reject enough heat at idle. makes me think it's the Radiator. i'd Pull the radiator, bring it to a radiator shop and ask them to test it's flow and see if it's restricted. i'd have them dunk it in descaler and flushed backwards and forewards. a side note if your adding horsepower to your engine your gonna need More radiator to handle the Heat Rejected for a higher horsepower engine. More Horsepower = More Heat Rejected = a Bigger Radiator needed. Also i would only run OEM thermostats if u can . an easy way to check if its a Thermostat problem is to remove the Thermostat and run it without one. You might even Want to Run it Without a Thermostat anyhow. Try it see how u like it. Arizona is a Warm Climate. Engine cooling fans will Come on as soon as they are needed to cool engine. they will stop when it gets too cold. the fans can control engine temperature fine in your climate. also --- The cooling fans come on Full blast when u Run the air conditioning to Bring air through the Air conditioning Condenser this Must happen so air conditioning Head Pessure Remains at proper Pressure. other things to check --- Blow air Backwards through your Radiator fins to blow any Dirt & arizona Desert dust from Between cooling fins. in other words you must be able to see daylight through the Radiator where air goes through. also --- you must be able to see daylight through the Air Conditioning condenser in front of the Radiator. blow it backwarsds too. u have to be able to see daylight through both of the Heat exchangers. u can check at night in your garage, put a flash light or droplight behind radiator and see if u can see through them. Also --- check for proper air flow . can air enter radiator ok? can hot air air exit the engine bay ok ? does air enter that car from front or underneath ? does it require an air dam under car to deflect air up and into radiator ? My camaro does. not enough air can come through front of car it must come from underneath. it uses a shield that hangs down and deflects air upward into front of radiator.
You are correct in your thinking increasing rpms and car speed increases water flow through radiator and air speed through radiator cooling your engine down.
A Trick to see if its a capacity/radiator issue is Run the Heater at idle , fan on high when engine is hot and if engine temps automatically drop. you pretty much know your radiator is plugged up. either air can't get through it or water cannot flow through it very well.
Also --- it looks like u just put a new engine in you said in a video. Rule of thumb. install a New enigne = install a New Radiator.
i am assuming you installed a New Water Pump With your New engine. so, i'm taking that out of the Loop. if u did not u should have. kind of a golden rule.
Good Luck.
Hey sarah, are you still running too hot? Guess so 😜😬 Maybe you put in a wrong thermostat? For BAM engines Audi used two different thermostats with different working temperatures depending on build year. Up to model year 2002 the thermostat used is from 87 to 102 degree celsius. From model year 2003 its 80 to 102 degree celsius. I don‘t know your TTs build year and specific engine but if you have a model year 2002 thermostat in a 2003 TT it will run too hot just like yours. 😊 hope this helps. 😘 greetings from germany ✌🏻
210 isn’t bad, is that stock temp? I would do a 180 stat. Flush the radiator and start over with new coolant and burp the system. I don’t think 210 is bad but any higher than that would be a concern. My stock Mustang stat is 215 and I run a 180 now, car runs barely at 190 always.
Not to worry. You will get it sorted out. Get the exhaust installed and see if the temperature still climbs. Plenty of great advice here in the comments. I enjoy watching your videos and applaud your attention to detail. To you and Sarah #2: thank you for your service. Hats off to our current and former solders! Happy Thanksgiving!
Perhaps the block water ports are clogged with rust and such... ever replace a freezeplug? Sounds like it to me. When RPM is up, water flows with more pressure, hence the cooling effect. Clogged a little could restrict flow to a dribble.
Rule out the most expensive thing first (hopefully!). That'll set your mind at ease. If the gasket is leaking/blown, you can go all 'Office Space' on the ol' TT... ;)
th-cam.com/video/N9wsjroVlu8/w-d-xo.html
Hola Sarah, check the coolant hose flange part: OEM: 06A121132S, i have 2 golf 1.8T and a Audi A3 1.8T this fange always bend, crack or have a bad o-ring and send air to the cooling system.... check for coolant leaks on the top of the gear box
You can tell the internet mechanics with no experience here....HEADGASKET! LOL, no evidence it's even vaguely like a failing head gasket, but it's in teh internetz.
Someone please tell me they figured out the issue. I have an 03 audi tt and always running hot. Replaced EVERYTHING! PLEASE HELP!
2022 rewatch... you finding the second temp sensor on your own, replacing on your own is NOT dumb, you are legit woman. .. AND ! Sarah² righteous !
After all of these great work and still runs in high temp...!!! Ι don't want to let you down but there might be a problem to your engine block. It might be a "burned" flange or maybe even worst a cracked "capita engine"...Also i read a comment down there for a blocked radiator, check that too!! In my opinion you must emphasize to your engine!! Not to the external parts, which in my opinion after all you have done , they are waste of time and money!!
P.S. 1) Excuse me for my grammatical mistakes.
2) Sorry if i let you down
Keep making awesome videos
.......With greetings from Greece!!
I'm chasing an overheating issue in my 93 S10. Replaced the water pump (made sure it's spinning in the correct direction), 2 thermostats, 2 sensors, burped it multiple times, bottom hose isn't collapsing because it has a spring in it, clutch fan spins freely, and it's still over heating less than 5 miles down the road. like 240-250 degrees! At this point it has to be the rad.
Basically... I understand your frustration! Whatever it ends up being, I hpe you find it soon. I love your channel!
Check out this forum post about a clogged oil screen causing similar problems. Could explain why the behavior changes with RPM also. www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219852
Sounds like a flow problem, I'd say the radiator is getting plugged up. Just replace it, flushing it won't cure it.
Use only distilled water to refill after you drain and flush. Your not going to see any codes on this .
Sarah, you have 124186 miles on that radiator, its time to replace it. Don't use dexcool , green or the BMW blue antifreeze it OK.
I've done a few Audi's that had a black fan switch sensor already in place of their 'green' coolant temp sensor.
And I've found green coolant temp sensor in place of the fan switch sensor.
Also, I've ordered coolant temp sensors and was sent black fan switch sensor instead. Same plug, same design, much different readings.
Was this the case here?
Terminal 30 is just battery power that is either too low during recent powering on, or it's because battery was recently disconnect, Clear terminal 30 code after battery is final, if it comes back, check alternator and battery charging system.
When I worked for VW we had issues with heater cores plugging up from crystallized coolant . Try flushing the radiator. And stat adorable.
1. I Saw you still had errorcodes for aircon. My experience: When aircon is not recharged properly, the fans will work overtime.
2. For be shure you don’t have a bad headgasket or cracked head, i suggest to get a co2 sniffer kit, so you Can determine if you have/or not have CO2 (exhaust gasses in your cooling circuit. Alternatively get a “kit” with expansion tank adapters and pressure gage, so you Can se if the engine puts pressurein the cooling system? (Do you read this shit, or am i wasting my time?)
Sarah, don’t know if you got the temperature issue solved but it’s going to be your thermostat. Replace it with an OEM one, never use an aftermarket on this cars. I’ve had several TT’s. I knew you where going to have that issue when I saw the thermostat you installed. OEM part# 050 121 113C.
I'm not convinced that 99C/210f is running too hot! With a 14 to 16 lb pressure cap your system won't boil over until you hit about 250F. I think it's 2 deg per pound pressure increase in boiling point for water er radiator fluid. Gauges can be weird depending on how they are engineered. In the ancient ones (60's), broken wires cause those things to vary with the voltage output of the alternator. At 99C the water is only starting to boil at normal air pressure.
I've had new thermostats not work before. The last time my car had a cooling problem I thought it might be the thermostat. When I drained some coolant from the radiator green slime came out. I ended up needing a new radiator. This probably isn't your problem,but it shows that sometimes it's just hard to figure things out. It sounds more like an airflow problem to me,but I wouldn't bet money on it.
Sarah ... have you checked to see what the normal operating temp is for that car. I was a GM guy or years and then back in 2012 I bought an '09 Mini Cooper S. One of the first things I did was install a Scan Gauge II to monitor volts and water temp and the first time I saw the temp go up to 220 deg. I was pissed. I was used to an operating temp of 185 deg but after checking the Mini blogs and a reliable BMW shop that's been racing BMWs since the 1970s I was informed that 210 - 220 is the normal operating temp for the car.
Did you bleed the air out at the heater core inlets. There is a small hole in each heater hose to bleed the air out. Just pull back the hose clamps and pull the hoses back to expose the holes to the coolant stream. Add coolant until it comes out of the holes. Push the hoses back and reinstall the clamps in the correct position.. You can get a vacuum bleeder from Amazon for less then $100 bucks. Made by Airlift I've had mine for years and it works very well.