4 minutes in and I am impressed with your production values. Clear steady shots with good descriptions. Sweet bike as well. Looking forward to your other videos.
Lovely bike and that lift looks handy as hell. From what I have been reading on some other sites, the sync procedure you are using, is only valid for points ignition engines. Apparently, you can blow out the electronic ignition module, if you simply remove the plug cap while the engine is running. The correct procedure, is to short out the plug. You need an extension to your plug wire to fit between the wire and the plug. A piece of spoke works well. Then, using an insulated screwdriver, you short the plugs to the head to disable them. This protects the electronic ignition module.
Really enjoying your videos. I’m rebuilding an R75 from the ground up and your videos are very helpful. It’s cool to see you working on your bike with your wife. Good stuff!
Nice video, you did a good job explaining the adjustment of the mixture. Removing the spark plug cap and leaving it unattached is wrong. A length of spoke attached to the plugs and using a screwdriver to ground alternate sides of the motor would have been a better example. In the video, when you were adjusting off-idle you (first, at 23:30) tightened the left side when the left side vacuum was already lower than the right. It got worse, which is what was expected. Somewhere off camera you made the right adjustments.
Nice video! Yes, properly balanced carbs make these machines so much more pleasant on the road.... my only comment would be: Make sure that the engine is at "operating temperature" before attempting to adjust and balance the carbs. Operating temp means the whole engine, including the crankcase, is too hot to touch barehanded. A good spirited 20 minute ride before the tuning operation should suffice!
I like how these boxers are so accessible to work on, but the process is more involved than sync-ing an I4 engine.The most time consuming is to get to the vacuum ports on my bike...
One other important note: On machines equipped with an electronic ignition system, never pull a spark plug cap off on a running engine as that would fry the ignition control module. ($$$) The high voltage pulse must always have a path to ground (i.e. thru the negative plug electrode/plug threads into the cylinder head)
You guys make a good team working together. That bikes a nice family project. My 73 r60/5 has bing type 53s with no vacuum port. Is there another synch tool you suggest for these 53 carbs?
Good video. I have electronic ignitions though and not sure the single spark trick works for those. Curious how tall your wife is and how she handles that bike? Wondering if it has been lowered at all and how? I'm about to put together a /5 for a 5'3" woman and planning on SWB and perhaps a custom seat on a stock pan that has less foam.
These bikes are very sensitive to throttle balance. I’ve had the old heavy flywheel versions like yours and still have an old RS and Mystic. They need to be at running temperature before doing any of this work. Generally the rule is a few miles on an open road. I use mercury gauges which are pretty much fail safe. They’re not easy to get now. The lighter flywheel versions from about 1981 need pretty much perfect balance or they’re horrible in my experience.
This is the best bing carb tuning video I have found. I'm currently trying to dial in my R100 and this video has helped a lot. Thank you!
4 minutes in and I am impressed with your production values. Clear steady shots with good descriptions. Sweet bike as well. Looking forward to your other videos.
Lovely bike and that lift looks handy as hell.
From what I have been reading on some other sites, the sync procedure you are using, is only valid for points ignition engines. Apparently, you can blow out the electronic ignition module, if you simply remove the plug cap while the engine is running. The correct procedure, is to short out the plug. You need an extension to your plug wire to fit between the wire and the plug. A piece of spoke works well. Then, using an insulated screwdriver, you short the plugs to the head to disable them. This protects the electronic ignition module.
Correct
Really enjoying your videos. I’m rebuilding an R75 from the ground up and your videos are very helpful. It’s cool to see you working on your bike with your wife. Good stuff!
It’s a lot of fun working on these bikes together. Hope your rebuild goes well!
Nice video, you did a good job explaining the adjustment of the mixture. Removing the spark plug cap and leaving it unattached is wrong. A length of spoke attached to the plugs and using a screwdriver to ground alternate sides of the motor would have been a better example. In the video, when you were adjusting off-idle you (first, at 23:30) tightened the left side when the left side vacuum was already lower than the right. It got worse, which is what was expected. Somewhere off camera you made the right adjustments.
Wirklich wieder ein tolles Video und die Synchronisierung ist sehr gut und verständlich erklärt. Please mehr davon. Gruß aus Berlin, Germany
Nice video! Yes, properly balanced carbs make these machines so much more pleasant on the road.... my only comment would be: Make sure that the engine is at "operating temperature" before attempting to adjust and balance the carbs. Operating temp means the whole engine, including the crankcase, is too hot to touch barehanded. A good spirited 20 minute ride before the tuning operation should suffice!
Great video! What a team! Sounds really nice going down the road at the end. A wealth of knowledge, thank you for sharing!
Great example of balancing those Bings!Perfect! Bike looking choice as well!
Glad you liked it! 👍
Another great demo, very helpful to have clearly detailed steps
Thanks for watching! Thanks for being a Member of my channel
So well done thank you!
I like how these boxers are so accessible to work on, but the process is more involved than sync-ing an I4 engine.The most time consuming is to get to the vacuum ports on my bike...
That’s the beauty of these old BMWs. Also the adjustment screws and vac ports are very accessible on inline 4 or 3 K models.
Awesome video. Can you make one on installing a throttle cable?
One other important note: On machines equipped with an electronic ignition system, never pull a spark plug cap off on a running engine as that would fry the ignition control module. ($$$) The high voltage pulse must always have a path to ground (i.e. thru the negative plug electrode/plug threads into the cylinder head)
@thebmwguy any comment on this? curious for my 1993 R100 GS, (bean can)
You guys make a good team working together. That bikes a nice family project.
My 73 r60/5 has bing type 53s with no vacuum port. Is there another synch tool you suggest for these 53 carbs?
I think I go over syncing those carbs in this video, it’s one of my first videos th-cam.com/video/KYoRZvdisEg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3anpYtfXE03CIR0Q
Good stuff
Glad you enjoyed
Good video. I have electronic ignitions though and not sure the single spark trick works for those. Curious how tall your wife is and how she handles that bike? Wondering if it has been lowered at all and how? I'm about to put together a /5 for a 5'3" woman and planning on SWB and perhaps a custom seat on a stock pan that has less foam.
she is 5'4" and the bike has 100% stock suspension and stock seat.
Don't you want some external cooling during tuning and revving?
Please do a video about the R 75/5 front drumbrake.How can i adjust or optimate it?
Greetings from Germany🇩🇪
that's coming up!! my wife and i are going todo a complete brake video. front and rear!
Could you also make a video about syncing the slide carbs (Bing Type 53)?
th-cam.com/video/KYoRZvdisEg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3anpYtfXE03CIR0Q
11.13.24. 💁🏻♂️You look a lot like Matthew Stafford 🏈 & sound a bit like him🎯 ☝🏼good Video
Haha I’ve never heard that before.
These bikes are very sensitive to throttle balance. I’ve had the old heavy flywheel versions like yours and still have an old RS and Mystic. They need to be at running temperature before doing any of this work. Generally the rule is a few miles on an open road. I use mercury gauges which are pretty much fail safe. They’re not easy to get now. The lighter flywheel versions from about 1981 need pretty much perfect balance or they’re horrible in my experience.
What’s your take on the Colortune tool.
I’ve used em all. Digisync is the best.
No, just no…
Why?