Watched this 2 years ago.... and today had to come back as I have a TV to move to a wall with insulated plasterboard - confident nothing else will work..... but remembered this vid. Ordered from Amazon... Thanks Charlie - again you've saved me from a DIY nightmare.
Worked on site 30 years plus . That’s the best I’ve ever seen by miles The thinking behind it is bang on Has a professional I’m really impressed. Top video too
Cheers Paul - always good to get a thumbs up from a pro!! Yep, fixings are pretty fundamental for us in the curtain install industry and I still think this is the strongest plasterboard fixing out there. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
THANK GOD!!!!! I came across your video... I was running into blanks worrying about how to hang my 3 radiators (double thickness = heavy) on my drywall upstairs... this has LITERALLY saved me ££££ in not needing to get the walls ripped open to re-brace the studs for the radiator placements. thank you, keep up the great work!
I just fit a double Ikea Pax wardrobe and had been searching for ages to find best way to secure it from falling onto my toddler and this has sorted me right out! I was always fearful of having to fix into plasterboard, especially where I absolutely don't want it to fail and this is just magic. Thank you!
better to find the timber uprights if there are any they will be at 400 centres, then fix to that instead. or you can cut a hole in the plasterboard and fix a timber between the uprights to screw into then put battens on the underside of the plasterboard and fix the piece you cut out back in. failing this you can just use these device and put gripfill on the back of the wardrobe, or, drill a big hole enough to get a long length of batten through the hole and hold it on the other side with your fingers then fix it with lots of screws
Snap toggles are what you need. I've been using them for years, and have the advantage that the fixing is by a standard thread machine screw.@@ianmathieson65
love your videos mate , bought a box of these, and other stuff you test out,i am a plumber working for yorkshire council,i was renovating houses,during the 1980`s when government grants were available , i used to teach in college ,the zap a tap, is one of my favourite tools, thank you for everything you do, TOP MAN !
Hi Karl, good to hear from you and thanks for the comment! That's an interesting story, and I didn't know about the Zap a tap - might have to get one of those, although I have diverging similar with a spring claw instead of the tapered design. They must have been fun times, renovating. Wish I had done something similar, living in SE London in the naughties. 👍
First time used I didn't follow the steps and forgot to put the red string through the circle part..second time it worked a dream.sorry for the confusion. Have bought some more for the rest of the house. Thank you.
Yes it certainly is, and got me out of jail on a job in the Hebrides a few months back, when we couldn't get a decent fixing in a lath and plaster wall - see my Community tab where's a photo of it.
Looking at this I can do the same thing with a pice of timber with two holes, a bit of string and some drywall screws, it's been well thought out though.
I regularly patch repair plaster board ceilings using a timber batten and fixing original cut out back. Makes sense I could do this on a stud wall and create fixings where required. Would need some easy fill to cover up though 👍 will definately give these fixings a go.
Glad to hear it. These things are very clever. I was doing a soft furnishings project in Barra and the wall was old lath and plaster - just crumbled away with the fixings we were using so as a last resort I used one of these. Gripfilled the gap, filled with Easi-fill the next morning and the fixing was as strong as if we had anchored into the wall behind.
I often do a similar thing using a thin strip of wood or ply,pre-drilled, & short bit of string to pull, & shove-through a hole or slot in the plasterboard, then screw on,with bracket pre-attached. Or better still, if you can, use a magnet to see exactly where your nails/screws,are,, therefore your timber/metal studs are, & fix solidly into them.
Just moved in to my new build house and tried to put up some fairly heavy curtains with the standard plugs and screws that came in the box.... FAIL!! As a first time home owner I am new to DIY and wanted to try and do things myself to learn rather than get someone else to do it. I was really disheartened when it didn't work and the fixings started to fall out but having looked into it I now see that i need some kind of anchor for the plasterboard. This video (and on elf the others I watched) has been so useful and has given me the confidence to try again now with the right fixings as I was about to throw the towel in and get a pro over to do things moving forwards. Big thanks; big help!!!
That's exactly what it is copied from !! its a very old method. But the bend in the plastic back bends the plasterboard and warps it after its been there for a week! I use these, much better. th-cam.com/video/mCt7_j8n-Yw/w-d-xo.html
@@markhowe5539 Cheers, those Bullfix Plasterboard fixings look much better design wise and durability longevity wise. I'll be hanging up expensive heavy duty 6kg on wall speakers so I'll be going with the Bullfix Plasterboard fixings for peace of mind it won't bend warp the plasterboard.
I have always HATED fixing to plasterboard because of my many failures, but this product looks great. I'm now looking forward to the next opportunity to hang something from the wall. Excellent video too. Thanks.
As to the Gripit fixings, they're actually a blessing when you have the plasterboard within just a few millimetres of the wall or lintel. Which begs the question: how much clearance do you need , for this fixing, between plasterboard and backing?
My advise, get a a hammer drill, a concrete drill bit and drill through the lintel. Use a plastic wall plug suitable for concrete / solid walls and problem fixed. This way the fixing will be solid AF. If it's a metal lintel, then use a metal drill bit with the diameter smaller than the screw thread size and put the screw straight through. Problem solved. Pro tip: Don't tight the screw too hard, as it will push the plasterboard towards the lintel and it will create a dip on the surface.
@@LordOfLight You must be trolling. What do you call 8:14 - 8:26? He both describes and demonstrates the clearance needed for the fixing. Did none of you actually watch the video?
@@arcadely No I'm not trolling, and yes he describes the clearance for the fixing he's demonstrating at that moment; but not for the GRIPIT fixings that the original comment was about. Don't disappoint me now: under no circumstances admit you're in error and instead claim your mistake is all my fault. I'm looking forward to it.
Looks brilliant. Just had a radiator pulled off a wall by a two year old because it was only fixed to the plasterboard with two brackets, each bracket secured by two screws going into expanding rawlplug type things. Had it had these it would never have come away!
In the US we have "Snaptoggle" BA from Toggler. The heavy duty version 3/16" can hold up to 238lbs in 1/2" drywall and up to 802lbs in concrete block. They are easier to install and reusable. No need for 2 holding screws and a string like this design. Maybe a comparison between this two anchors would be very interesting. Cheers
Wish you put weights on it to show the failing forces required. Do that against all the others in a controlled setting. Would love that video. Keep up the great work
Just used theses today after watching your video on them. I now have a heavy wall unit firmly fixed to my plasterboard wall.. seriously secure. Thanks 😁👍
These look perfect for my next job of hanging a 40 inch tv to my sons plasterboard wall. Fingers crossed they’re up to the job, your video gives me confidence they will be!
(4:00 )Why are you using a Phillips bit on a Pozidriv screw? That's why it keeps camming out. And why didn't you mention the Fischer Self-Drill Plasterboard Fixings? These are superb. I use them all the time and have never had a problem with them even with quite heavy loads.
Phillips / pozidrive miss use triggers me to no extent, Working in a workshop when i see broken pozidrive drivers and tips, or rounded phillips drivers it bothers me to the furthermost extents of reasonable irritation.
Just installed two GeeFix hangers to repair a shower curtain installation that had slumped/almost torn loose. These work as advertised and shown in your video. Thank you for bringing this product to our attention. Terry, Santa Maria, CA, USA
Just fitted one of these to hang a very very heavy Mirror, I wasn’t hopeful as everything else I had tried just pulled straight out of the wall. I watched the video last night, ordered from Amazon it was delivered about 20mins ago and it worked beautifully, my mirror is now in place and I’m a happy bunny.
@Charlie DIYte How about spring toggle? Are there relatively good? What is one the second position after GeeFix? That's very interesting to me. Thank you!
Great video - clearly explained and allowed me to fit 4 new Rointe Olympia electric radiators onto both plasterboard, double thickness plasterboard and a concrete wall. Used the Gee Fix for the plasterboard, and standard screw and supplied rawlplug for the concrete wall. One thing that was interesting was clearing enough of the polystyrene insulation behind the plasterboard to insert the Gee Fix, I found a bent metal coat hanger sort of worked better compared to using your fingers. The radiators were 28kg down to 18kgs, all felt really secure using the Gee Fix and solid when fitted. Did grab some T Bolts just in case the gap behind the plasterboard was not suitable for the Gee Fix. Great videos and advice, you encourage a DIYer to have a go with confidence.
You've done a great job there Duncan. Very impressed you managed to clear the insulation for the Geefix. They're a segment towards the end of my recent plasterboard fixings update video th-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/w-d-xo.html where I fix into the insulation and those T bolts force themselves open, so they are good. Bullfix Extra are also good where you've got very limited space behind the plasterboard although personally with a small gap and brickwork behind, I'd probably use a Corefix and drill into the brick.
Previous anchors, used by previous occupant/plumber/someone, have worked loose having been carelessly used to fix the basin and cistern, leaving messy holes about 15-20mm holes in my sons maisonette. Looking on TH-cam and finding this video has shown us what we need, thank you.
You're welcome Adrian. Get a core or hole saw drill bit and I show you in this video th-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/w-d-xo.html at 21:50 in, how to redrill that hole with a simple wood jig.
Excellent review Charlie. I like your methodical approach to demonstration and you have built a useful body of work of reference for professional and DIY alike. These plastic doohickeys look just the job for plasterboard walls with a cavity (as opposed to dot and dab) and the price while high (which judging by some of the comments from professionals may put them off), should not deter the DIY who just wants an effective job completed confidently and can relish in the perspective of not having to find and then pay a professional to do it. If I had these sorts of walls I would use them.
My husband is not great at DIY and has put up a heavy curtain for me twice unsuccessfully. I know the weight of the curtain is my responsibility- made to measure and beautiful but I didn’t want to compromise. He has just used the Geefix and it is brilliant and not expensive. Great video helped
About time somebody has come up with a reasonable method of fixing to plasterboard I have to replace my curtain rail fixing 4/5 times over the last 20 yrs I will be definitely trying these out.Great tip Charlie
That was my logic also until I saw this video th-cam.com/video/lHb-Tcvkn7M/w-d-xo.html clearly showing this anchor performing better when at a 90° angle to the load.
Another great video. I find your reviews and advice very helpful. I’ve just ordered a pack of these to fix an expansion vessel to my hollow wall which has 40mm metal studs. I can’t go into the studs but these will go into the narrower cavity ok and I’m sure they’ll do the job nicely. Thanks for the video.
Charlie have you never heard or the thorsmann plaster board spring toggle fixing. I am a professional installer in an A/V capacity and we hang 25-30 kilo speakers out of two of them. There expensive at around 80p each they come in a box of 25. You can use them in single double or triple plaster boards
Charlie DIYte Yes Charlie that’s the only. They come in 2 sizes. We always use the larger ones. Drill a 13 mill hole then you push the toggle true the hole it will open and pull tight with the spring. job done. Your left with the bolt and the head of the toggle.
Charlie - thanks for the tip about using Geefix. I'm not much of a DIYer but I decided to try using Geefix to hang a 26kg mirror on a plasterboard wall: It worked perfectly. The only slight hitch was when I put the first centre screw in it must have somehow caught the plastic "string" and I was unable to pull it out until I loosened the screw a bit. Other than that it was plain sailing - the mirror has stayed up for 24+ hrs now so I'm confident the fixings have worked!
Thanks Chris. These are a real "get it of jail", as we found it on a project in the old day job where the lath and plaster wall wouldn't take anything else. Where you can't fix into the brick work behind, I think you'll struggle to find a stronger fixing.
High end new builds use Plasterboard over OSB. Couldn't figure out why in my Father In Law's place and then he said it was to aid hanging of wall items.
Thoroughly enjoyed that video and very intuitive. I do all the DIY at home and whilst not a proffessional, videos like this really do help. Awesome thank you.
Thanks I decided to subscribe to your Chanel because you are a really professional and know what you are doing and what you talking about... we really need more people like you... well done and thanks again...👍 I am glad that I found you...
I was so glad to find this video. I’m installing shelving in my garage that need support from the ceiling but the studs are 64 cm apart (25 inches). So, I’m going to use these in between the studs to add additional support. Fortunately, I was able to find them here in the United States for a cost of $15 (approximately £12). It will be a week or so before I get them but I’m looking forward to reinforcing the ceiling above the shelving.
snap toggles and toggle bolts can trap and cut wires because of the U shaped metal section, these are much better th-cam.com/video/mCt7_j8n-Yw/w-d-xo.html
Wow! I sure love how well this video was done Charlie, thank you so much! So very thorough with great commentary and and an all around excellent video capturing not only the quality, benefits and strength of this product but also relaying how it is so remarkably different! For DIY'ers everywhere, THANK YOU!
Hi Allison. Thanks so much for your wonderful comment. You guys don't know how valuable your heart felt comments are in terms of keeping me motivated to produce this content. Really chuffed you enjoyed the video and I'm doing a plasterboard fixings update in November so keep your eye out for that 👍
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. Help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb and unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
@@martingalli2786 Hi Martin. The UX8 or Duopower 8x40 would work well as long as you got it to open up well behind the plasterboard. To be sure though the wall anchor would probably be safest.
Hello Charlie, Im thinking of putting an 11kg mirror on a stud all. I have radiator plastic pipes just behind this also. They should be slightly set back as it used to be an alcove in hall when we moved in. =The builders ran the radiator pipes in alcove then covered with Drywall. Its a bit of a risk but I really want this mirror there. Can you recommend the fixings and can I get away with short screws so they have less chance of piercing the tubes behind? Thanks if you get a chance to answer. Ill keep and eye out on your Chanel.
Love the banter guys! Thing is, this is for heavy stuff, and whatever heavy duty fixing you use you're going to have reasonably large holes to fill. Just get it in the right place first time and get her to sign a document in writing evidencing that she fully agreed with the position before you drilled 🤣
Used these today (after watching this video) to hang a heavy metal mirror. Worked a dream. Very pleased with the process and the result. Thanks for the heads-up.
Plasterboard is the work of the devil. Give me proper masonry walls with real plaster built up in layers any day. Can't stand the modern way of even using plasterboard on solid, outside walls- cheap I know, but inferior in every way.
Cost is king these days, it's the way 40% of homes are built these days. So if you have to use a plasterboard fixing, then use the strongest on the market. Bullfix Plasterboard beats Geefix in real life situations.
These got us out of jail on a tricky job in the Southern Hebrides a couple of weeks ago. If you can't fix into the brick behind, you'll not find many fixings stronger than these 👍🏻
Just stumbled onto your video and GOD BLESS YOU, this is exactly what I need for a wall decoration that my wife brought home. I stopped in the middle of that project while trying to find the best way to hang the heavy rack. Thanks very much. I will definitely subscribe, like and ring the bell. You saved the day for me.
Charlie, as soon as I saw your video I ordered a pack Amazon next day delivery, used it to fix a drooping clothes hanger on a hollow core door which has been annoying (my wife) for years. It really is an excellent product. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
These look brilliant. I’ve just ordered some. Your videos are really helping me since we’ve moved house and found there are more jobs to do than we thought. You’re a life saver Charlie. 👏👏
Nice demonstration Charlie. I’ve just used the toggle ones for a curtain pole as the plasterboard turned out to be double thickness and grip it wouldn’t go through. The last bracket position didn’t have sufficient cavity behind which I only discovered after I’d drilled the 25mm hole! Typical eh! I concreted it up and used a rawl plug which did the trick. These look fantastic. Will be ordering a packet. Many thanks.
I love your videos, Charlie. You get right to the point… Describe the problem then introduce the solution. You don't waste my time with annoying music and pointless chatter. Thank you. I wish you continued success with your videos. Steve
Thanks Steve - I really appreciate that. 👊 Couldn't do it without the constant encouragement of you guys through the Comments section. Can't thank you enough!
Thanks. That looks much preferable to wall anchors, much more secure. By the way, I was confused halfway, up until you "fixed" the shelf bracket. Over here in the States, "fix" usually means "repair." For what you were demonstrating we would say, "attach, or "install." I hope I can find GeeFix on Amazon or at Home Depot. I have a lot of "fixing" to do.
Great review!!! I find myself using you as my go to now if I am attempting a job I haven’t done before!! Keep up the great (and extremely useful) work. 👍👍
I bought a packet of these a few days ago to mount a TV on a cavity wall. I absolutely messed up the first time round. I made the holes bigger so I could use bigger screws. Unfortunately the head was too big to fit the two wee screws in :'D Bought another packet and used the supplied screws (just to get the fixing secured) then drilled the holes making them a wee bit bigger once the fixing was secure. Been a few hours and the telly hasn't fallen yet.
Good work. Perseverance is the way forward - you've learnt so much from this! Could you have just screwed into the fixing without making the hole bigger?
This represents a technique I've used for 40 plus years, just using a 20mm hole and a 19mm wide strip of wood with my own reusable cord. Most often used in a ceiling next to a hole for light cable and needing support sufficient for the weight of the lamp off the loop-in connection plate (screwed through to the wood piece). Heavier weights in the ceiling? I make a bigger hole, up to 104 mm using a hole saw to pass a much wider/longer/thicker piece of wood through. Ideally to pass cross-wise between joists, or parallel to them if a longer more supportive fixing is required. After fixing, I can replace the cut piece from using the holesaw, fix it to the wood via one screw through the centre hole and fill the gap and screw position and smooth down. Done properly - minimum fuss and mess, maximum load bearing strength and simplest to install. Can also be used on walls but wall gap, especially when insulated can present some (simply resolved) problems. Plasterboard (even 9 mm) is pretty damned strong strong when a load is distributed on it properly. The larger the distribution distance, the greater the potential load clearly. The beauty of these nylon jobs is there is little danger of them splitting when multiple screws are used - not so true for wood pieces. I'd keep some of these in my toolbox for those "quick fix" occasions. But, there is nothing like chopping out (neatly) a rectangle of plasterboard between joist centres, rebating the joists either side and fitting a good sized board in between them, then refitting the cut plasterboard and filling/making good. Easy on a painted plaster wall, not so easy when the wall is papered!
Hi Bob - thanks for this. I've also applied this technique in the past but was too dumb to think about the cord!! You've done some top jobs this way, by the sound of it. The splitting is the main issue as you say and I was seriously impressed with how well the nylon took the self tapped screws.
The main issue I can see is that not all plaster board😊 has sufficient space behind it. This is especially true if it has been applied using dot and dab and you may not be aware of this until you start drilling.
What a great product & equally a great product review Charlie I'm a handyman in a hospital & the Grip it is definitely the answer to all my prayers I'll be getting our storeman to order a few packs of those immediately!! Thanks again Charlie
Thanks Charlie, I bought these based on your recommendation to hang a very heavy (12kg) 1m round mirror on a plaster board wall- don't know exact thickness. It has worked a treat and the mirror is still up a month later and not movement detected. I couldn't stop the back plate spinning round when I was screwing in the plug, despite holding tightly to the strings (got cramp!) so took the string out amd luckily waa able to use the central screw to spin the back plate back to realign the holes. The other one rotated too but was easier the 2nd time. It still only took me 10 minutes and has done the job so I am very pleased.
Great demonstration! But I sure wish you’d shown a sample of installing this on a Lath & Plaster wall (which is what I have in my 1889 Victorian home) These walls need a video all their own- so hard to work with (!) thanks much for a helpful video!
It'll be good for lath and plaster Diana. I used it on a lath and plaster wall on a customer job in Barra a few months back. Complete life saver as the wall was crumbling with all other options. The key will be finding the right drill bit. I'd probably use a flat wood (spade) drill bit, but be prepared for it to get a bit blunt as you'll obviously be drilling plaster as well as the wood behind. Go in slowly and gently as the delicate bit is when you get through the plaster and into the lath behind. You want a nice clean cut in the lath which can be a bit tricky if you catch the edge of it.
Was just thinking the same thing, as my walls are lathe and plaster, a few years back I cut out the lathe and plaster out and screwed ply to the joists behind, it fix a hand basin, these fixings would have no doubt secured it. Would love to see a demo please, on lathe and plaster fixing, So many people on Amazon complain that the backing piece spins round and cuts the cord, thereby losing the fitting, maybe poking something through the screw hole into the back piece would stop this? A long nail? Prices on Amazon are good, maybe do an affiliated link? Last thought, would be a good idea to run the screws through the plastic before fitting, had to do that many times on cars.
You, Charlie, seem to deliver much more than you promise at the start! The close ups ,the example of like products, the simplicity of your descriptions is spot on! I really appreciate your teaching methods, Im an old guy, and people think I am a genius. Thanks for making me look much smarter and talented than i am.
Thanks Charlie, after watching a lot of your videos I managed to hang a 55" TV onto a wall. You saved me over £200 that it would have cost to have a professional in to do it. Thank you thank you thank you 👍
@@CharlieDIYte bought the Geefix but there wasn't enough clearance between the wall and plaster board so drilled in to the wall behind, used the supplied bolts and plugs and as there was a 15-20mm gap I supplemented them with 4 drywall anchors. Couldn't have done it without the content you provide 👍
@@petef717 Great job, that's not going anywhere!! Next time you have the luxury of being able to drill into solid brick behind the void, give these a try bit.ly/340QFx0 Very impressed with them. It's basically what you did, but the steel core bridges the void enabling you to properly tighten the screw without the risk of the plasterboard being pulled back to the wall.
you can just cut a big hole and slide a piece of timber in and hold it with your fingers while you screw it in from the front. same idea but a lot bigger load and its timber
@@jamesclifford20 well just tested it today on 12.5mm plasterboard and Geefix is actually not stronger. I have done tensile, sheer and cantilever test at 150mm. For a 25mm and a massive bar of plastic its pretty poor. I guess its down to REAL testing that provides the real evidence. .:-)
Watched this 2 years ago.... and today had to come back as I have a TV to move to a wall with insulated plasterboard - confident nothing else will work..... but remembered this vid. Ordered from Amazon... Thanks Charlie - again you've saved me from a DIY nightmare.
You're very welcome, and here's my new update video th-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/w-d-xo.html
I’ve never had a toilet roll holder that hasn’t eventually fallen off or destroyed the wall ..until now. What a fabulous product. Thanks Charlie.
Worked on site 30 years plus .
That’s the best I’ve ever seen by miles The thinking behind it is bang on Has a professional I’m really impressed. Top video too
Cheers Paul - always good to get a thumbs up from a pro!! Yep, fixings are pretty fundamental for us in the curtain install industry and I still think this is the strongest plasterboard fixing out there. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
@@CharlieDIYte Look up snaptoggles if you haven't seen them.
This is impressive too. th-cam.com/video/7NCeDpdfTrg/w-d-xo.html
I’m trying to hang a heavy clock on drywall and this video helped a lot. I’m going to purchase this fitting. Wish me luck.
Good luck. It'll do a good job 👍🏻
I uses these to put up some 600mm kitchen cabinets. Brilliant fittings and so easy to use
They're awesome aren't they Keith. Saved the day on a curtain fitting where the lath and plaster wall crumbled away.
THANK GOD!!!!! I came across your video... I was running into blanks worrying about how to hang my 3 radiators (double thickness = heavy) on my drywall upstairs... this has LITERALLY saved me ££££ in not needing to get the walls ripped open to re-brace the studs for the radiator placements. thank you, keep up the great work!
Yes, these will be great for that. An awesome fixing that has got me out of trouble on more than one occasion! Thanks for the comment!
Been doing this for years with bits of wood. Hold with fingers. Also works for patching plasterboard holes. Cut square and patch. 👍🏻
I always tie a string to the wood... really easy to adjust
Yep, I remember first seeing my Dad doing this with strips of wood and string more than 50 years ago.
I just fit a double Ikea Pax wardrobe and had been searching for ages to find best way to secure it from falling onto my toddler and this has sorted me right out! I was always fearful of having to fix into plasterboard, especially where I absolutely don't want it to fail and this is just magic. Thank you!
You're welcome Jonathan. Thanks for the comment!
better to find the timber uprights if there are any they will be at 400 centres, then fix to that instead. or you can cut a hole in the plasterboard and fix a timber between the uprights to screw into then put battens on the underside of the plasterboard and fix the piece you cut out back in. failing this you can just use these device and put gripfill on the back of the wardrobe, or, drill a big hole enough to get a long length of batten through the hole and hold it on the other side with your fingers then fix it with lots of screws
Great idea.
No reason why it can't be scaled down to a half size version for lower loads.
I was talking to a fitter who works with me on the day job and he said exactly the same thing yesterday!
Charlie DIYte A small version would also be easier to insert when the gap between the wall and the plasterboard is significantly smaller than 30 mm.
Snap toggles are what you need. I've been using them for years, and have the advantage that the fixing is by a standard thread machine screw.@@ianmathieson65
I think they're working on this, and also trade packs will be coming out soon apparently.
Charlie DIYte sure he did.
love your videos mate , bought a box of these, and other stuff you test out,i am a plumber working for yorkshire council,i was renovating houses,during the 1980`s when government grants were available , i used to teach in college ,the zap a tap, is one of my favourite tools, thank you for everything you do, TOP MAN !
Hi Karl, good to hear from you and thanks for the comment! That's an interesting story, and I didn't know about the Zap a tap - might have to get one of those, although I have diverging similar with a spring claw instead of the tapered design. They must have been fun times, renovating. Wish I had done something similar, living in SE London in the naughties. 👍
First time used I didn't follow the steps and forgot to put the red string through the circle part..second time it worked a dream.sorry for the confusion. Have bought some more for the rest of the house. Thank you.
Looks like a great product. Thanks.
Yes it certainly is, and got me out of jail on a job in the Hebrides a few months back, when we couldn't get a decent fixing in a lath and plaster wall - see my Community tab where's a photo of it.
Looking at this I can do the same thing with a pice of timber with two holes, a bit of string and some drywall screws, it's been well thought out though.
I regularly patch repair plaster board ceilings using a timber batten and fixing original cut out back. Makes sense I could do this on a stud wall and create fixings where required. Would need some easy fill to cover up though 👍 will definately give these fixings a go.
Charlie, you just saved me a lot of heartache trying to fix a drywall fixit problem. I just ordered a 8 pack of geefix. Thank you!!
Glad to hear it. These things are very clever. I was doing a soft furnishings project in Barra and the wall was old lath and plaster - just crumbled away with the fixings we were using so as a last resort I used one of these. Gripfilled the gap, filled with Easi-fill the next morning and the fixing was as strong as if we had anchored into the wall behind.
I often do a similar thing using a thin strip of wood or ply,pre-drilled, & short bit of string to pull, & shove-through a hole or slot in the plasterboard, then screw on,with bracket pre-attached.
Or better still, if you can, use a magnet to see exactly where your nails/screws,are,, therefore your timber/metal studs are, & fix solidly into them.
Yeah agreed with the magnet. .I do the same. .but a much more smart fixing is the Bullfix plasterboard fixing th-cam.com/video/7NCeDpdfTrg/w-d-xo.html
Just moved in to my new build house and tried to put up some fairly heavy curtains with the standard plugs and screws that came in the box.... FAIL!! As a first time home owner I am new to DIY and wanted to try and do things myself to learn rather than get someone else to do it. I was really disheartened when it didn't work and the fixings started to fall out but having looked into it I now see that i need some kind of anchor for the plasterboard. This video (and on elf the others I watched) has been so useful and has given me the confidence to try again now with the right fixings as I was about to throw the towel in and get a pro over to do things moving forwards. Big thanks; big help!!!
Been making something similar for heavier light fittings for years from a cutting of timber or doubled up trunking lid and copper wire
That's exactly what it is copied from !! its a very old method. But the bend in the plastic back bends the plasterboard and warps it after its been there for a week!
I use these, much better. th-cam.com/video/mCt7_j8n-Yw/w-d-xo.html
@@markhowe5539
Cheers, those Bullfix Plasterboard fixings look much better design wise and durability longevity wise. I'll be hanging up expensive heavy duty 6kg on wall speakers so I'll be going with the Bullfix Plasterboard fixings for peace of mind it won't bend warp the plasterboard.
I have always HATED fixing to plasterboard because of my many failures, but this product looks great. I'm now looking forward to the next opportunity to hang something from the wall. Excellent video too. Thanks.
Thanks Mark. It's the strongest out there in my opinion.
As to the Gripit fixings, they're actually a blessing when you have the plasterboard within just a few millimetres of the wall or lintel. Which begs the question: how much clearance do you need , for this fixing, between plasterboard and backing?
My advise, get a a hammer drill, a concrete drill bit and drill through the lintel. Use a plastic wall plug suitable for concrete / solid walls and problem fixed. This way the fixing will be solid AF.
If it's a metal lintel, then use a metal drill bit with the diameter smaller than the screw thread size and put the screw straight through. Problem solved.
Pro tip: Don't tight the screw too hard, as it will push the plasterboard towards the lintel and it will create a dip on the surface.
He literally says in the video that you need 30mm for this fixing between plasterboard and backing.
@@arcadely He literally does nothing of the sort.
@@LordOfLight You must be trolling. What do you call 8:14 - 8:26? He both describes and demonstrates the clearance needed for the fixing. Did none of you actually watch the video?
@@arcadely No I'm not trolling, and yes he describes the clearance for the fixing he's demonstrating at that moment; but not for the GRIPIT fixings that the original comment was about.
Don't disappoint me now: under no circumstances admit you're in error and instead claim your mistake is all my fault. I'm looking forward to it.
Looks brilliant. Just had a radiator pulled off a wall by a two year old because it was only fixed to the plasterboard with two brackets, each bracket secured by two screws going into expanding rawlplug type things.
Had it had these it would never have come away!
Sorry to hear that Keith. You could use these for the repair, or Corefix if there's brick behind the void.
A
In the US we have "Snaptoggle" BA from Toggler. The heavy duty version 3/16" can hold up to 238lbs in 1/2" drywall and up to 802lbs in concrete block. They are easier to install and reusable. No need for 2 holding screws and a string like this design. Maybe a comparison between this two anchors would be very interesting. Cheers
May be we in the UK can get it after Brexit with the UK/USA trade deal.
Have Snaptoggles in UK too. I use all the time. I dont like the 25mm hole on this one
Excellent channel never knew these exiisted perfect for my tower / vertical radiator THANKS CHARLIE
You're welcome Bill. I'm doing an update video this weekend hopefully so keep an eye out for that 👍
Wish you put weights on it to show the failing forces required. Do that against all the others in a controlled setting. Would love that video.
Keep up the great work
Look up the handyman on you tube he does a video toggles are around 300 lbs I think it was
@@sbmorris2k6 387 lbs. More than a Gee Fix which is directly compared in the same video.
Just used theses today after watching your video on them. I now have a heavy wall unit firmly fixed to my plasterboard wall.. seriously secure. Thanks 😁👍
Good work Frank. They're awesome aren't they!!
Gee whizz. Looks very strong and agree with others that smaller versions for lighter loads would be a great idea.
Top video Charlie
Thanks mate!
These look perfect for my next job of hanging a 40 inch tv to my sons plasterboard wall. Fingers crossed they’re up to the job, your video gives me confidence they will be!
(4:00 )Why are you using a Phillips bit on a Pozidriv screw?
That's why it keeps camming out.
And why didn't you mention the Fischer Self-Drill Plasterboard Fixings?
These are superb. I use them all the time and have never had a problem with them even with quite heavy loads.
Phillips / pozidrive miss use triggers me to no extent, Working in a workshop when i see broken pozidrive drivers and tips, or rounded phillips drivers it bothers me to the furthermost extents of reasonable irritation.
@@another1commenter770 I know. And this dude is meant to be setting an example....
.
I used them recently for traverse rods and well, I have very brittle plasterboard or they are really not that good.
Just installed two GeeFix hangers to repair a shower curtain installation that had slumped/almost torn loose. These work as advertised and shown in your video. Thank you for bringing this product to our attention. Terry, Santa Maria, CA, USA
This an awesome anchor.
this is better. .easier to fit in only a 18mm hole rather than 30mm hole. .also not £2, only 50p th-cam.com/video/7NCeDpdfTrg/w-d-xo.html
Just fitted one of these to hang a very very heavy Mirror, I wasn’t hopeful as everything else I had tried just pulled straight out of the wall.
I watched the video last night, ordered from Amazon it was delivered about 20mins ago and it worked beautifully, my mirror is now in place and I’m a happy bunny.
So glad to hear that, and thanks for letting me know. They're impressive, aren't they! 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte they certainly are....hmmm! Now what can I use the other 3 for😁
@Charlie DIYte How about spring toggle? Are there relatively good? What is one the second position after GeeFix? That's very interesting to me. Thank you!
such a brilliantly sinmple solution, pack of eight ordered for evalutaion! Thanks for showcasing this Charlie.
Thanks Jonathan. It's still the strongest fixing I've tested. Here's my update video th-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/w-d-xo.html
I'm looking for those now!!
There are links in the Description at the end of the video 👍
These and corefix have made fixing things to my walls a piece of cake. Cheers!
Now that I like, I’ll search them out and give them a go 👍
Great video - clearly explained and allowed me to fit 4 new Rointe Olympia electric radiators onto both plasterboard, double thickness plasterboard and a concrete wall. Used the Gee Fix for the plasterboard, and standard screw and supplied rawlplug for the concrete wall. One thing that was interesting was clearing enough of the polystyrene insulation behind the plasterboard to insert the Gee Fix, I found a bent metal coat hanger sort of worked better compared to using your fingers. The radiators were 28kg down to 18kgs, all felt really secure using the Gee Fix and solid when fitted. Did grab some T Bolts just in case the gap behind the plasterboard was not suitable for the Gee Fix. Great videos and advice, you encourage a DIYer to have a go with confidence.
You've done a great job there Duncan. Very impressed you managed to clear the insulation for the Geefix. They're a segment towards the end of my recent plasterboard fixings update video th-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/w-d-xo.html where I fix into the insulation and those T bolts force themselves open, so they are good. Bullfix Extra are also good where you've got very limited space behind the plasterboard although personally with a small gap and brickwork behind, I'd probably use a Corefix and drill into the brick.
What about the zip fix where you snap off the excess plastic guides once fitted. Always worked best for me 👍
yes these are what I use for mounting heavy loads, come in different sizes up to 3/8 bolt.
Previous anchors, used by previous occupant/plumber/someone, have worked loose having been carelessly used to fix the basin and cistern, leaving messy holes about 15-20mm holes in my sons maisonette. Looking on TH-cam and finding this video has shown us what we need, thank you.
You're welcome Adrian. Get a core or hole saw drill bit and I show you in this video th-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/w-d-xo.html at 21:50 in, how to redrill that hole with a simple wood jig.
Excellent review Charlie. I like your methodical approach to demonstration and you have built a useful body of work of reference for professional and DIY alike. These plastic doohickeys look just the job for plasterboard walls with a cavity (as opposed to dot and dab) and the price while high (which judging by some of the comments from professionals may put them off), should not deter the DIY who just wants an effective job completed confidently and can relish in the perspective of not having to find and then pay a professional to do it. If I had these sorts of walls I would use them.
My husband is not great at DIY and has put up a heavy curtain for me twice unsuccessfully. I know the weight of the curtain is my responsibility- made to measure and beautiful but I didn’t want to compromise. He has just used the Geefix and it is brilliant and not expensive. Great video helped
Chuffed to bits to hear that Denise! Thanks for getting in touch. A massive congrats to you both. That curtain's not going anywhere now!
While he was drilling i kept thinking my foods ready in the microwave loool!
Great videos thank you!
About time somebody has come up with a reasonable method of fixing to plasterboard I have to replace my curtain rail fixing 4/5 times over the last 20 yrs I will be definitely trying these out.Great tip Charlie
For curtain rails try the captive expanding screws. Or enter the arms race and use 10x50/60 plugs and 6mm screws. Small screws are useless.
always place it vertically. gravity points down so torque is applied on the horizontal axis. unless you have mainly side loads.
That was my logic also until I saw this video th-cam.com/video/lHb-Tcvkn7M/w-d-xo.html clearly showing this anchor performing better when at a 90° angle to the load.
Another great video. I find your reviews and advice very helpful. I’ve just ordered a pack of these to fix an expansion vessel to my hollow wall which has 40mm metal studs. I can’t go into the studs but these will go into the narrower cavity ok and I’m sure they’ll do the job nicely. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome. As you'll see here , I haven't found a fixing that carries more load than the Geefix th-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/w-d-xo.html 👍
Charlie have you never heard or the thorsmann plaster board spring toggle fixing. I am a professional installer in an A/V capacity and we hang 25-30 kilo speakers out of two of them. There expensive at around 80p each they come in a box of 25. You can use them in single double or triple plaster boards
www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/categories/tools-fixings-spring-toggles
Scroll down to the third one on the page. These are the only fixings you will ever use.
Thanks for this Philip. Is this the one you mean, in operation th-cam.com/video/NsICJ2U0YfU/w-d-xo.html That is a bit impressive!
Charlie DIYte Yes Charlie that’s the only. They come in 2 sizes. We always use the larger ones. Drill a 13 mill hole then you push the toggle true the hole it will open and pull tight with the spring. job done. Your left with the bolt and the head of the toggle.
Charlie DIYte Charlie are you going to do a video with these fixings.
Charlie - thanks for the tip about using Geefix. I'm not much of a DIYer but I decided to try using Geefix to hang a 26kg mirror on a plasterboard wall: It worked perfectly.
The only slight hitch was when I put the first centre screw in it must have somehow caught the plastic "string" and I was unable to pull it out until I loosened the screw a bit.
Other than that it was plain sailing - the mirror has stayed up for 24+ hrs now so I'm confident the fixings have worked!
Thank You, Sir
HI Charlie great videos very informative. I'm going to give these fixings a try. I like the hollow anchors and the toggle fixings.
Thanks Chris. These are a real "get it of jail", as we found it on a project in the old day job where the lath and plaster wall wouldn't take anything else. Where you can't fix into the brick work behind, I think you'll struggle to find a stronger fixing.
Plasterboard needs to be replaced with something better. I can't understand how it's lasted so long.
Ingenious fixing method
It is very cheap. Something better will be way more costly.
Cheap and FLAT
High end new builds use Plasterboard over OSB. Couldn't figure out why in my Father In Law's place and then he said it was to aid hanging of wall items.
what about these ?th-cam.com/video/7NCeDpdfTrg/w-d-xo.html
Thoroughly enjoyed that video and very intuitive. I do all the DIY at home and whilst not a proffessional, videos like this really do help. Awesome thank you.
Brilliant, just what I have been waiting for.😉
Thanks I decided to subscribe to your Chanel because you are a really professional and know what you are doing and what you talking about... we really need more people like you... well done and thanks again...👍 I am glad that I found you...
Not as glad as I am! Many thanks for your interest in my channel and for subscribing Adriano!
I like it so much. Thanks Charlie
Great product, best I have seen for plasterboard. Large Trade packs in building merchants is a must.
If that was me fitting it, The first screw would pierce the blue cord ;)
I was so glad to find this video. I’m installing shelving in my garage that need support from the ceiling but the studs are 64 cm apart (25 inches). So, I’m going to use these in between the studs to add additional support. Fortunately, I was able to find them here in the United States for a cost of $15 (approximately £12). It will be a week or so before I get them but I’m looking forward to reinforcing the ceiling above the shelving.
You could have tried this fixing instead th-cam.com/video/7NCeDpdfTrg/w-d-xo.html
FFS can you at least use the correct screwdriver bit for the screws !
the fixing looks good though , done this with plywood many times
Brilliant demonstration and exceedingly good product
I just had to check out this video to see who in 2019 is calling dry-wall plasterboard.. but then i heard the UK accent and it all made sense.
lol, drywall in the US and Plasterboard in the UK. ..check these Drywall fixings. th-cam.com/video/7NCeDpdfTrg/w-d-xo.html
Very helpful video. I'm about to attach various things to plasterboard throughout my house and your videos have been invaluable. I'm now a subscriber!
If you like this, you'll love the snaptoggle
snap toggles and toggle bolts can trap and cut wires because of the U shaped metal section, these are much better
th-cam.com/video/mCt7_j8n-Yw/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/B95Vt2WqV-0/w-d-xo.html
Wow! I sure love how well this video was done Charlie, thank you so much! So very thorough with great commentary and and an all around excellent video capturing not only the quality, benefits and strength of this product but also relaying how it is so remarkably different! For DIY'ers everywhere, THANK YOU!
Hi Allison. Thanks so much for your wonderful comment. You guys don't know how valuable your heart felt comments are in terms of keeping me motivated to produce this content. Really chuffed you enjoyed the video and I'm doing a plasterboard fixings update in November so keep your eye out for that 👍
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. Help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb and unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
Charlie DIYte love the videos, very helpful. Would you receive the ux8 or the wall anchor to mount a 10kg mirror onto plasterboard?
@@martingalli2786 Hi Martin. The UX8 or Duopower 8x40 would work well as long as you got it to open up well behind the plasterboard. To be sure though the wall anchor would probably be safest.
Great video just the job for my new rads
Hello Charlie, Im thinking of putting an 11kg mirror on a stud all. I have radiator plastic pipes just behind this also. They should be slightly set back as it used to be an alcove in hall when we moved in. =The builders ran the radiator pipes in alcove then covered with Drywall. Its a bit of a risk but I really want this mirror there. Can you recommend the fixings and can I get away with short screws so they have less chance of piercing the tubes behind? Thanks if you get a chance to answer. Ill keep and eye out on your Chanel.
@@-Grifter Mate be very careful that soundss like a episode of some mothers do em waiting to happen
Another big thanks as this will do the trick on my lathe & plaster walls which I refuse to hang anything on.
Biggest issue I’d have is when my wife wants things on the wall moved around, there’d be a whole new task filling those holes to patch them.
You know where to put the filler from now on 🤐🤣
Tell your wife, firmly, “No” 😉
Love the banter guys! Thing is, this is for heavy stuff, and whatever heavy duty fixing you use you're going to have reasonably large holes to fill. Just get it in the right place first time and get her to sign a document in writing evidencing that she fully agreed with the position before you drilled 🤣
At worst you could possibly tighten it up more to drag it just below the surface of the plasterboard then skim over it with filler.
@@CharlieDIYte We should contact a lawer for legal agreement :D
You convinced me, I’ve been looking at a way to hang a heavy 6’ mirror! Just ordered.
50450720 ditto
So I can hang my guitars on the wall now (My heaviest being 9 and a half pounds) without the fear of them falling off and making me cry🤔😭
Don't cry, keep twanging!
Great idea! How to make it so my wife thinks she came up with it........?
Reliable guitar fixings for plasterboard invented by a guitarist that can hold 95 KG! th-cam.com/video/mCt7_j8n-Yw/w-d-xo.html
Used these today (after watching this video) to hang a heavy metal mirror. Worked a dream. Very pleased with the process and the result. Thanks for the heads-up.
heavy mirrors, the professionals use these fixings th-cam.com/video/7NCeDpdfTrg/w-d-xo.html
Plasterboard is the work of the devil. Give me proper masonry walls with real plaster built up in layers any day. Can't stand the modern way of even using plasterboard on solid, outside walls- cheap I know, but inferior in every way.
Cost is king these days, it's the way 40% of homes are built these days. So if you have to use a plasterboard fixing, then use the strongest on the market. Bullfix Plasterboard beats Geefix in real life situations.
You have no idea how provident it was that you posted this video when you did. This product will solve a nasty problem for me! Thank you!
Fix? In the states fixing Sheetrock means repairing. Lol
Please someone tell him that
In the UK these are called fixings. You can tell this is UK dialect because he says “plasterboard” and not “sheetrock”.
I wish I’d written that.
Brilliant........will give them a try on a friend`s TV now.......
These got us out of jail on a tricky job in the Southern Hebrides a couple of weeks ago. If you can't fix into the brick behind, you'll not find many fixings stronger than these 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte I get asked for LOADS of TV fixes onto plasterboard, but turn them away usually......Gonna go for it now......
Just stumbled onto your video and GOD BLESS YOU, this is exactly what I need for a wall decoration that my wife brought home. I stopped in the middle of that project while trying to find the best way to hang the heavy rack. Thanks very much. I will definitely subscribe, like and ring the bell. You saved the day for me.
Really glad you found the vid useful, and massive thanks for the sub! Drop me a line if you have any other fixing conundrums 👍
Definitely a Me Too moment!! Just what ii was looking for. Many thanks.
You're very welcome Nick 👍
Charlie, as soon as I saw your video I ordered a pack Amazon next day delivery, used it to fix a drooping clothes hanger on a hollow core door which has been annoying (my wife) for years. It really is an excellent product. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
I did too, but then the plasterboard warped to the curve of the fixing, so ent onto these, much better th-cam.com/video/7NCeDpdfTrg/w-d-xo.html
These look brilliant. I’ve just ordered some. Your videos are really helping me since we’ve moved house and found there are more jobs to do than we thought. You’re a life saver Charlie. 👏👏
I'm so chuffed to hear that - thanks for letting me know 🙏. I'm planning a plaster board fixings update vid in a couple of weeks so watch this space.
Very very useful!!
This deserves BIG success!
Well done!
Thanks Chris! I've got to say, I was seriously impressed!
Look excellent, normally use the zip fix, but they certainly look worth a try.
Very interestiing. Your analysis sounds objective & sincere to me.
Nice one Charlie will be getting some to re-fix by stair rail which has pulled out of the plasterboard's and left 3 large holes..
Nice demonstration Charlie. I’ve just used the toggle ones for a curtain pole as the plasterboard turned out to be double thickness and grip it wouldn’t go through. The last bracket position didn’t have sufficient cavity behind which I only discovered after I’d drilled the 25mm hole! Typical eh! I concreted it up and used a rawl plug which did the trick. These look fantastic. Will be ordering a packet. Many thanks.
That's solved problem....Hopefully....well demonstrated,looks easy to use....Neat gadget.
I love your videos, Charlie. You get right to the point… Describe the problem then introduce the solution. You don't waste my time with annoying music and pointless chatter. Thank you. I wish you continued success with your videos. Steve
Thanks Steve - I really appreciate that. 👊 Couldn't do it without the constant encouragement of you guys through the Comments section. Can't thank you enough!
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks for your reply. Keep up the great work! S
Thanks.
That looks much preferable to wall anchors, much more secure.
By the way, I was confused halfway, up until you "fixed" the shelf bracket.
Over here in the States, "fix" usually means "repair." For what you were demonstrating we would say, "attach, or "install."
I hope I can find GeeFix on Amazon or at Home Depot.
I have a lot of "fixing" to do.
I think it probably comes from 'affix' getting shortened
@@peepiepo Sounds right. Thanks.
Great review!!! I find myself using you as my go to now if I am attempting a job I haven’t done before!! Keep up the great (and extremely useful) work. 👍👍
Thanks, I really appreciate that. 👊
I bought a packet of these a few days ago to mount a TV on a cavity wall. I absolutely messed up the first time round. I made the holes bigger so I could use bigger screws. Unfortunately the head was too big to fit the two wee screws in :'D
Bought another packet and used the supplied screws (just to get the fixing secured) then drilled the holes making them a wee bit bigger once the fixing was secure. Been a few hours and the telly hasn't fallen yet.
Good work. Perseverance is the way forward - you've learnt so much from this! Could you have just screwed into the fixing without making the hole bigger?
This represents a technique I've used for 40 plus years, just using a 20mm hole and a 19mm wide strip of wood with my own reusable cord.
Most often used in a ceiling next to a hole for light cable and needing support sufficient for the weight of the lamp off the loop-in connection plate (screwed through to the wood piece).
Heavier weights in the ceiling? I make a bigger hole, up to 104 mm using a hole saw to pass a much wider/longer/thicker piece of wood through. Ideally to pass cross-wise between joists, or parallel to them if a longer more supportive fixing is required. After fixing, I can replace the cut piece from using the holesaw, fix it to the wood via one screw through the centre hole and fill the gap and screw position and smooth down. Done properly - minimum fuss and mess, maximum load bearing strength and simplest to install.
Can also be used on walls but wall gap, especially when insulated can present some (simply resolved) problems. Plasterboard (even 9 mm) is pretty damned strong strong when a load is distributed on it properly. The larger the distribution distance, the greater the potential load clearly.
The beauty of these nylon jobs is there is little danger of them splitting when multiple screws are used - not so true for wood pieces. I'd keep some of these in my toolbox for those "quick fix" occasions.
But, there is nothing like chopping out (neatly) a rectangle of plasterboard between joist centres, rebating the joists either side and fitting a good sized board in between them, then refitting the cut plasterboard and filling/making good. Easy on a painted plaster wall, not so easy when the wall is papered!
Hi Bob - thanks for this. I've also applied this technique in the past but was too dumb to think about the cord!! You've done some top jobs this way, by the sound of it. The splitting is the main issue as you say and I was seriously impressed with how well the nylon took the self tapped screws.
Should of packaged up your solution and started making money then....
Excellent fixture, looks very strong reliable and repeatable
Excellent video as ever, helped me loads. , keep up the great work mate.
That is a very impressive piece of kit. Great video by the way showing everything that’s required to use what looks like a go to product.
The main issue I can see is that not all plaster board😊 has sufficient space behind it. This is especially true if it has been applied using dot and dab and you may not be aware of this until you start drilling.
I hate fixing anything to plasterboard for all the reasons you mentioned. This inspires confidence even with heavy loads. I’ll be getting some.
Yes, always better to fasten into brickwork behind if you can, but where you can't, these are about the best out there.
What a great product & equally a great product review Charlie I'm a handyman in a hospital & the Grip it is definitely the answer to all my prayers I'll be getting our storeman to order a few packs of those immediately!! Thanks again Charlie
Thanks Charlie, I bought these based on your recommendation to hang a very heavy (12kg) 1m round mirror on a plaster board wall- don't know exact thickness. It has worked a treat and the mirror is still up a month later and not movement detected. I couldn't stop the back plate spinning round when I was screwing in the plug, despite holding tightly to the strings (got cramp!) so took the string out amd luckily waa able to use the central screw to spin the back plate back to realign the holes. The other one rotated too but was easier the 2nd time. It still only took me 10 minutes and has done the job so I am very pleased.
Have you seen these what is the current most popular fixings amongst builders and construction workers,
th-cam.com/video/mCt7_j8n-Yw/w-d-xo.html
Loved this video and what a clever fixing - thank you Charlie and it will help me put up my very heavy mirror
not as smart as this one. .th-cam.com/video/7NCeDpdfTrg/w-d-xo.html
Great demonstration! But I sure wish you’d shown a sample of installing this on a Lath & Plaster wall (which is what I have in my 1889 Victorian home) These walls need a video all their own- so hard to work with (!) thanks much for a helpful video!
It'll be good for lath and plaster Diana. I used it on a lath and plaster wall on a customer job in Barra a few months back. Complete life saver as the wall was crumbling with all other options. The key will be finding the right drill bit. I'd probably use a flat wood (spade) drill bit, but be prepared for it to get a bit blunt as you'll obviously be drilling plaster as well as the wood behind. Go in slowly and gently as the delicate bit is when you get through the plaster and into the lath behind. You want a nice clean cut in the lath which can be a bit tricky if you catch the edge of it.
Was just thinking the same thing, as my walls are lathe and plaster, a few years back I cut out the lathe and plaster out and screwed ply to the joists behind, it fix a hand basin, these fixings would have no doubt secured it. Would love to see a demo please, on lathe and plaster fixing, So many people on Amazon complain that the backing piece spins round and cuts the cord, thereby losing the fitting, maybe poking something through the screw hole into the back piece would stop this? A long nail? Prices on Amazon are good, maybe do an affiliated link?
Last thought, would be a good idea to run the screws through the plastic before fitting, had to do that many times on cars.
You, Charlie, seem to deliver much more than you promise at the start! The close ups ,the example of like products, the simplicity of your descriptions is spot on! I really appreciate your teaching methods, Im an old guy, and people think I am a genius. Thanks for making me look much smarter and talented than i am.
Thanks for posting! Looks like a great product sir!
You're welcome Jesse. Yes it's fantastic 👍🏻
Thanks Charlie, after watching a lot of your videos I managed to hang a 55" TV onto a wall. You saved me over £200 that it would have cost to have a professional in to do it. Thank you thank you thank you 👍
That's great news Pete, and thanks so much for letting me know! What did you use in the end?
@@CharlieDIYte bought the Geefix but there wasn't enough clearance between the wall and plaster board so drilled in to the wall behind, used the supplied bolts and plugs and as there was a 15-20mm gap I supplemented them with 4 drywall anchors. Couldn't have done it without the content you provide 👍
@@petef717 Great job, that's not going anywhere!! Next time you have the luxury of being able to drill into solid brick behind the void, give these a try bit.ly/340QFx0 Very impressed with them. It's basically what you did, but the steel core bridges the void enabling you to properly tighten the screw without the risk of the plasterboard being pulled back to the wall.
@@CharlieDIYte 😁
cool. .. at £2 each though, you could have used these Smart fixings .th-cam.com/video/7NCeDpdfTrg/w-d-xo.html
love it been a chippie for 50 yrs love the way it spreads the load, one quiery will the plastic become brittle over time
Doubtful inside of a wall
you can just cut a big hole and slide a piece of timber in and hold it with your fingers while you screw it in from the front. same idea but a lot bigger load and its timber
Incredible fixing which I’ve used several times, for me it’s the strongest in market and very simple to use !
beg to differ ..th-cam.com/video/7NCeDpdfTrg/w-d-xo.html
Watched your video Mark, for me GeeFix is stronger
@@jamesclifford20 well just tested it today on 12.5mm plasterboard and Geefix is actually not stronger. I have done tensile, sheer and cantilever test at 150mm. For a 25mm and a massive bar of plastic its pretty poor. I guess its down to REAL testing that provides the real evidence. .:-)