Your fabrication can best be described as farm-style. The way Farm style was explained to me it is, it's not going to be pretty, welds are going to be oversized, but it will get the job done and if you really think about it everything that's done is pretty ingenious. Function over form. But it's a great man once told me "you keep the pretty stuff on the passenger seat"
JOE OR GUS "Farm boy fabrication" is what we always called it as I was coming up on the farm. Grandpa always said "The bigger the glob, the better the job!" about farmer welds lol! They might not always be pretty but by God they always hold!
Let's soften the language a little bit. Tony is "childlike and whimsical in his creative endeavors." Traits commonly found in people of superior intelligence. "Free thinker" sounds better than psychopath, more cost-effective. I love your channel, I have total respect for you as a mechanic. The windage tray is great because it also reduces frothing. During a serious donut session a windage tray will reduce the probability of spinning bearings. What floats your crank? In high school we were so pleased when we discovered the benefits of a windage tray. Beautiful in its simplicity, cost effective in terms of benefits. Keep up the great work Tony. You are an intellectual Oasis in the middle of a large desiccated and bleak landscape. Thank you.
this episode alone demonstrates how shitty all the TV shows are that focus on selling parts from their sponsors that no body needs! Thanks for the great content!
3:35 no need to explain Tony. This is what your channel is all about. It's why myself and many other love your channel! The majority of car guys don't have endless money from advertisers like other channels of the genre. Thanks for keeping it Real!👍
Same. Every time I watch a UT video I: 1.Hear something clever and amusing, 2. Learn something valuable about performance cars, and 3. Feel like I am witnessing something momentous, that fills a need for knowledge in thousands of people.
Engine Masters just did a great episode on windage and oil level on a Big Block Chevy. They picked up 30HP just by adding a better pan with better windage set up. It was a very informative episode.
Uncle Tony is so cool!! I wish I had someone like him around or in .y family that I could talk to and work my old car with. Thanks for the videos and keep up the awesome work!!!😎💯
I lucked out on a factory windage tray . I bought a 85 318 that came out of an plymouth fury cop car . I run stock oil pumps but a name brand like mellings no issues . I'm like you Tony I'd rather build from scraps and brainstorm on how to fix an issue on a low buget instead of buying new parts all the time . I even used a boiler shut off valve with male ends i bought at Lowe's to splice into one of my heater hoses when i dont need heat inside car and truck = summer time . As always the youth are getting smarter watching this channel 😎🤘✌👌👍
You used a small block windage tray in a Slant Six and a big block tray in a small block. Now you have to find a Slant Six windage tray and make it fit a 383 for the trifecta.
The man was a genius! Always working in the "gray area". He's probably rolling in his grave over what NASCAR has become. Smokey and "Big Bill" (along with many others) are probably the ones "raining" out races these days with their tears from upstairs!
Hey Tony I don't want to come across as soft but.. You seem a lot more confident and at ease in front of the camera than even just a few months ago. It's cool.
i only stumbled on your chanel recently and i used to play around with engines and cars a long time ago and watching your chanel. i realy want to get back in too it again thanks Tony
Well said about oil pressure , I used the wrong oil pump in a small journal 327 I built in high school . So when I was spinning the engine at a high RPM the engine blew up because of the lack of oil . A tough lesson to learn , so I built a 383 stroker and the rest is history . Keep up the amazing content , I hope Lambchop is feeling better these days . CHEERS
good job on explaining more stuff I didn't know about oil pressure for a street engine,! I was always sold high volume melling oil pumps for my street racers that never got over 6000 rpm. another informative video from the master!🔧
A 340 tray will work in all the LA blocks if it's a 273,318,340 or 360 they are all the same if it stroked then it will need some work and same as if it's the newer Magnum blocks it needs a 5/16 spacer between the mounting holes
It's not just "quicker cars" it's cars that hook and go. Also you have to consider the effect lifting the front end. I totally agree, there is a lot of HP in the oil system. You really do good videos and I appreciate your style.
Those hubcaps are awesome. Law enforcement needed the drilled ones to get rid of heat in chase situations and heavy stop and go traffic. Uncle Tony, I love your work here on You Tube. You're a magnificent American keeping old school hot rodding alive and well.
The "dog dish" hub caps really look good on your car! Your friend has good taste. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with these videos. Bottle rocket is one of the most creative and unique low budget builds on TH-cam.
Hey uncle tony, jack here again. Thanks alot for breaking down oil pressure. Super helpful im a young mechanic going on 4 years and i appreciate the information. I subscribed back when you had 1500 subscribers, i think its awesome how you channel has grown and i really enjoy the content
I ran a IMCA modified and with a small block Chevy and ran a 3/8 mile very fast track. I ran a 55a high pressure oil pump. I started with a stock oil pan and it worked great. Later I built a better engine and I put a circle oil pan with trap doors and kick outs. Every time the car went into the turn the oil light would flicker. I started talking to several people and everyone said that is normal and won't hurt anything. I put a stock pan on it and the oil light never flickered. I know if I would have bought a expensive moroso it would have worked but stay away from $100 budget pans because the stock works just fine. That's what I got from the experience. I have never used a high volume pump because its my opinion you have to have a big pan and cross drilled cranks and other needs for more oil. I think your baffle will work great.
Aha i got you. Uncle ! I asked you about this a while ago thankyou for putting this on the table you nailed it! This is a very important and overlooked and unexplained thing giys need to know . thats why your tha man !
I just finished building a baffle for the TransDapt oil pan that I'm using for my V-8 Ranger swap. I went with a different pan than what comes in the kit for 2 reasons-1) I didn't want a chrome pan. 2) Even though I know it probably isn't necessary, I wanted a 5qt. capacity pan. I built this baffle the same way I always do-I cut 2 pieces of "slotted" steel strap to fit inside the sump (a short piece for the front, a longer piece at the back). Then, I cut/shaped a piece of 16ga sheet metal to fit the pan. I use "slotted" strap because it already has holes to allow for drain back. I tack weld the strap so that the bottom of the holes are just a tick below the top edge of the sump. Then, I tack the sheet metal to the sides of the pan.
I've never built a motor without some sort of windage control. Even when I was messing with big inch Caddy motors. Always use stock volume stock pressure pumps. Have played around with springs and always came back to around 10 at an idle and 35ish at full send. Never lost a motor racing, for an oil pressure issue...
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Being older and from the same school,I like your fabrication. These days it seems most go.way past the point of diminishing returns.
Maintaining oil temperature goes a long way to keeping the average pressure in the happy zone. Full synthetic oil will help in the same vein but typically they don't have enough zinc in their additives to take care of a flat tappet cam. Really need a hot rod oil with extra zinc or upgrade to mega dollar roller cam. Vaccum pumps can make free power by removing the pressure from the crankcase. Helps the rings seal better and less windage, another 15-20 hp can be had.
Oddly, I did had Smokey Yunick's book on his "Power Secrets", I had from the same publisher, "Blueprinting" and one on "Holley Carburettors". I gave them away to my, then Boss, who was rebuilding an LJ Torana. Oddly, finding these same books are near impossible. Cheers for the Video Uncle Tony and Uncle Tony-ess :-)
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 i bought my 340 Duster at a city auction for 275 dollars. The only thing wrong with it needed lower control arm bushings.
@@garymckee8857 Yeah, I remember they were cheap but not exactly how much we were paying. My friend bought a used Satellite with a 318, I think it had. Pretty sure it had AC, was definitely a 727 torqueflight. We drove the wheels off that beauty and was still going strong last I saw him. Maybe he paid $500 non-driver sitting in someone's driveway, it needed exhaust, battery and maybe tires or something. I remember it was cheap compared to today, and the body was perfect.
I run a custom stock sump for my cleveland 408 stroker, 7quart fill with baffle and windage tray as the motor makes 380rwhp through a toploader 4spd and 9" 3.90ratio. It runs a Mellings hf pump which produces around 40pounds at idle and 75 at any sort of noise, but my Old Man and i built my stroker with some old school techniques of looser clearancing, 2thou on most rotating assemblies and oil return drain holes in the cleveland valley have been opened up, rounded off and wire wheel polished the valley to promote oil return as the cleveland is TERRIBLE at draining at prolonged higher rpm's. In conjunction with our local machine shop and some investigation into high quality oils, we chose to run Brad Penn Grade 1 20w 50 and its been super happy to this day and its around 9years old now, 1 gearbox rebuild and im currently having the 9" rebuilt as its pounded a yoke out but my lil torque monster 408 still sounds a treat and the motor has behaved amazingly. This year ill be posting the ally heads and top end rebuild and get it ready for some more serious numbers yet keeping it a somewhat driveable street based build.
As long as the oil gauge says at idle about the first mark on the old stock gauge I am happy. Cause that means I don't have to add a quart. And I know it will go up to just about the half way mark driving. And since it's one of them little Chevy small block engines. I do remember bolting some sort of windage unit on it around the oil pump area. When I put that 6 quart fancy hot rod Chrome oil pan on it. Years ago. Building the engine to put in the Nova. But it ended up in Dad's old Pick'em up truck. And this poor little 383 stroker that's getting tired has been a daily Runner in the old 75 C20 for the last 10 years. I'm happy with myself. Good build.
The old 60s Corvette 327 engines we used to race had factory windage trays and if you vented high up on sides of the oil pans and plumbed the vents up to the valve covers you gained some rpms and probably a few horses too
If you ever look at the bottom end of a seventies/eighties Rover V8 you will see the shelf on the sump, windage tray, and larger gears in the oil pump, but not a huge amount of pressure. The engineers had worked out what was needed for a max of 6000rpm. People would often try and correct the factory 'low' oil pressure not understanding how it all worked together.
IIRC Mopar performance manual recommends as a 1st step to enlarge the pickup and the passage in the block. It says easy suction side improvements always yield oil system performance improvements - more so than pressure side mods which are comparatively much harder.
I totally agree about the oil pressure. On my cheap quick throw together street race engines, I always wanted low oil pressure. Now on my all out drag engines the pressure is quite high.
I always followed the rule of 10psi at idle, warm and in drive. Got in alot of arguments over that. Pressure is resistance to flow. Some people just don't understand that.
In addition and from personal experience HV pumps in big block Mopar with stock oil pans lead to trouble I chewed the camshaft out of a 400 because at 5000rpm sustained towing it could drain the oil out of the pan faster than it can flow down 😣 read the whole book don't just skim and assume you have a complete understanding
No. 22.....bam! That's some damn good advise. I know with small block chevy spooling high rpms with some builds, the engine could pump the sump dry. So we had to run extra oil return lines from the top to the oil pan. If it was going to do it, you hoped you caught it in time before you damaged something, because it had to be the right circumstances to occur. Otherwise you got burned at the worse moment.
tony whats up man. i like ur videos.especially ur carb and tech stuff.i noticed ur a big mopar guy.not trying to be ignorant just wondering is that what u grew up on?or is there engineering design of the small blocks that u prefer over a sbc or sbf?there is not much mopars around me even when i lived in jersey it was mainly sbc or 5.0 fords on the street.like i said not trying to be ignorant.just was hoping maybe u could make a video the small block mopar pros and what attracts u to them over ur typical sbc or sbf.i have saw in some of ur older videos u seem to like the sbf 302 also.i can attest to them being 1 of my personal favorite small blocks .thanks man keep the good old school real videos coming.not all like these other videos with sponsored parts in a dustless facility looking all pretty.i enjoy real world footage getting outside actually driving the cars the stuff u do real world shit.
I see 60psi cold idle. 40psi hot idle. New standard volume, standard pressure oil pump maybe 7k miles ago. Stock calls for 10w-30. I'd been running 5w-30 synthetic. I just switched over to Mobil1 0w-40 synthetic. I just installed a centrifugal supercharger and wanted a little more protection under boost, and more flow when it's cold. Old 350 Chevy with full roller valvetrain. It's in an old farm truck with a low-mileage 4-bolt main bottom end.
Thanks for all the videos .. alwats very informative even when i been doing this for a very long time .. i know about the oil rushing to the back of the pan but not the rest .. love the videos thanks for what you do
It is pretty easy to make a low buck dry sump. Keep the stock pressure pump but direct the suction side outside of the block , make a shallow oil pan that has a trough / flat side in the direction of crank rotation. ( the flat will be on the passenger side. Use a spur gear hydraulic pump as a scavenge pump hooked to a home made tank. Have a look at the system on an older Ford " Kent " 1.6 4 cylinder powered Formula Ford race car
UTG, whats your thoughts on using new head bolts vs re using the old bolts? My repair manuals states, "Replacement required due to Torque to yield head bolts". This is my first rebuild of a chevy 350ci, I've rebuilt dozens of ford engines over the years and have always reused the original head bolts with no problems...your 2 cents would be worth a million to me.
Excellent as always!!! Ive always erred towards longevity vs HP, and followed 10psi/1krpm, but as you said, by doing the math, its overkill. I know you mentioned painting the inside of blocks to assist in oil return, but what about any grinding, grooving, or smoothing? Would you want the rough texture to assist in heat transfer, especially in the heads(??) What about enlarging the blocks oil passages to fiddle with the volume/pressure results? Ever bother with any of that? Last thing: oil coolers. Any thoughts??
I'm chasing a no-pressure-reading-when-cold problem in my stock '66 Hemi, and after trying three different pressure sensors, dropped the pan to see what's what. It has a baffle on the rear side of the deepest part of the pan as you described, but no windage tray- so I'm adding one. The pickup is OK, so absent any other problems the pressure problem may come down to oil weight (I had 15W-40 in it, my racer neighbor says use straight 40 weight), or the length of the bypass spring in the pump? Anyway keeps me busy while I'm keeping at least six feet away from other humans.
I can vouch for the 7 psi per 1000 rpm thing. I drove an AMC Jeep Waggie with a 360 for 15 years and that damn thing never had oil pressure at idle, LOL.
As per the brass in the oil pan from the distributor brass gear..... Without getting into "GEAR geometry" specifics, Measure the the cam's gear diameter, divide by 2. to find the center line of the cam.. keep that number known Measure the depth of the distributor's landing face on top of the intake manifold, down to the top highest tooth of the cam once installed (V-8 config)... special tool required, or rig up calipers... Add the 1st number (the result of the divided by 2 , which to the radius of cam's gear) to the depth measurement... keep that number handy now and forget about the first radius number... Now, measure the distributor distance, landing flange of the shaft, to the center of the brass distributor gear...or measure the length of the dizzy's gear, divide by 2, and that number will get added or subtracted or add to the the length number from the dizzy's landing flange, to either the top or bottom of the gear.... the gears length being divided by two is to find the center of the length, and as mentioned, add or subtract accordingly from the landing flange to top or bottom of dizzy gear... Checking this, to make sure that the 45 degree tooth mesh is on center with one another, as just (0.010") worth of mis-alignment, in height, will trash the brass dizzy gear, based upon the intake manifold's manufacturing process and in extremely rare cases, how the distributor was manufactured... I personally have never caught the dizzy's being out of factory spec, especially the after market lines, but my father has, TWICE!!! Now, I personally have had uncountable height issues due from intake manifolds, ALLOT!!! Most only needed shims, and only a few were too tall, sure, I could have machined them down myself, but, was clearly just bad parts and were shipped back to the company for a replacement...but, the alignment of helically cut 45 degree gears, have to be on center with one another, or, they chew themselves up, or at least the softer alloy (brass) does, by design. as you likely already know, when they are in alignment, they last a massively long time. please note, the block and heads having been resurfaced, and the china walls being altered, will also cause issues in giving a false reading, to lead one to think the intake manifold landing flange is too high or too low... Another note, if the drive tang for the oil pump is too long, can be a rare issue.. a friend of mine caught a horridly manufactured O.E.M. oil pump, the the slot was not deep enough, and the ring that was pressfit on, was destroyed getting it off and and he machined a new ring after slotting deeper.. but this issue first lead him down a path, thinking the height issue was elsewhere, as explained above... good luck, and happy building, and be safe all
@@alanwhite3280 oh no... we each learn by watching others and by crash coursing through life... but no Einstein... in fact, I had to look at how you spelled "Einstein's" name so I would get it right... lol, but thank you though
I Fab a lot of things & if your looking at it you make sure it works right then make it pretty if not just make it work that's all that matters . If they don't like how it looks then they are not making anything they just buy & put on . When breaking new ground you have to ruff it in to make sure it works then go from there
UTG love the channel!! You inspire the desire to learn the fine art of engine building and tuning!! I find myself watching your videos then heading to the garage to tinker with my 70 Charger with the tips and tricks you share. So Thank you!! Assembled 440 running 65-70psi oil pressure. Would it be ok to experiment with oil viscosity to achieve the oil pressures targets you have described?
Your fabrication can best be described as farm-style.
The way Farm style was explained to me it is, it's not going to be pretty, welds are going to be oversized, but it will get the job done and if you really think about it everything that's done is pretty ingenious. Function over form.
But it's a great man once told me "you keep the pretty stuff on the passenger seat"
JOE OR GUS 😂 that is an awesome quote
JOE OR GUS 🤘
I love that last paragraph👍🏻
JOE OR GUS "Farm boy fabrication" is what we always called it as I was coming up on the farm. Grandpa always said "The bigger the glob, the better the job!" about farmer welds lol! They might not always be pretty but by God they always hold!
@John Johnson umm that what function over form means... Form over function is something that looks pretty but doesn't work very well or at all.
I've been building cars for a long time. I've been guilty of everything in this video. You tought me something today. Thanks man.
Best real teacher on the nets. And SNAZZY parts too. Da Grump & Smokey still learning us.
Man looking back on these videos, this was the golden age of this channel
Good info about the amount of oil pressure a engine needs to survive
This is something I don’t know so I am glued to this video
Let's soften the language a little bit. Tony is "childlike and whimsical in his creative endeavors." Traits commonly found in people of superior intelligence. "Free thinker" sounds better than psychopath, more cost-effective. I love your channel,
I have total respect for you as a mechanic. The windage tray is great because it also reduces frothing. During a serious donut session a windage tray will reduce the probability of spinning bearings.
What floats your crank?
In high school we were so pleased when we discovered the benefits of a windage tray.
Beautiful in its simplicity, cost effective in terms of benefits.
Keep up the great work Tony.
You are an intellectual Oasis in the middle of a large desiccated and bleak landscape. Thank you.
no the language lets him think hahaha
this episode alone demonstrates how shitty all the TV shows are that focus on selling parts from their sponsors that no body needs! Thanks for the great content!
3:35 no need to explain Tony. This is what your channel is all about. It's why myself and many other love your channel!
The majority of car guys don't have endless money from advertisers like other channels of the genre.
Thanks for keeping it Real!👍
Great video as usual. Bill and Smoky would be proud!
"Childish and angry" killed me
Same. Every time I watch a UT video I:
1.Hear something clever and amusing,
2. Learn something valuable about performance cars, and
3. Feel like I am witnessing something momentous, that fills a need for knowledge in thousands of people.
@@Gothamauto spot on!
"But I have other redeeming qualities..." this is great. I'm subbing. I love the smoke in his hand and the no b.s. presentation.
I was thinkin i had low oil presure turns out its just right. Thanks Uncle Tony .
Engine Masters just did a great episode on windage and oil level on a Big Block Chevy. They picked up 30HP just by adding a better pan with better windage set up. It was a very informative episode.
And that's sitting still ....imagine corners now , you get to keep your power in a corner too.
Uncle Tony is so cool!! I wish I had someone like him around or in .y family that I could talk to and work my old car with. Thanks for the videos and keep up the awesome work!!!😎💯
I lucked out on a factory windage tray . I bought a 85 318 that came out of an plymouth fury cop car . I run stock oil pumps but a name brand like mellings no issues . I'm like you Tony I'd rather build from scraps and brainstorm on how to fix an issue on a low buget instead of buying new parts all the time . I even used a boiler shut off valve with male ends i bought at Lowe's to splice into one of my heater hoses when i dont need heat inside car and truck = summer time . As always the youth are getting smarter watching this channel 😎🤘✌👌👍
You used a small block windage tray in a Slant Six and a big block tray in a small block. Now you have to find a Slant Six windage tray and make it fit a 383 for the trifecta.
It's a gift, man...a gift
Now I want to hear Uncle Tony talk about Smokey Yunick! That guy had some IDEAS
Smokey was why ahead of his time.
The man was a genius! Always working in the "gray area". He's probably rolling in his grave over what NASCAR has become. Smokey and "Big Bill" (along with many others) are probably the ones "raining" out races these days with their tears from upstairs!
Hey Tony I don't want to come across as soft but.. You seem a lot more confident and at ease in front of the camera than even just a few months ago. It's cool.
Thanks Uncle Tony for more knowledge shared! May you and uncle Cathy be safe!
i only stumbled on your chanel recently and i used to play around with engines and cars a long time ago and watching your chanel. i realy want to get back in too it again thanks Tony
Well said about oil pressure , I used the wrong oil pump in a small journal 327 I built in high school . So when I was spinning the engine at a high RPM the engine blew up because of the lack of oil . A tough lesson to learn , so I built a 383 stroker and the rest is history . Keep up the amazing content , I hope Lambchop is feeling better these days . CHEERS
Uncle Tony droppin knowledge attention to detail = free HP
good job on explaining more stuff I didn't know about oil pressure for a street engine,! I was always sold high volume melling oil pumps for my street racers that never got over 6000 rpm. another informative video from the master!🔧
Man I love these videos. Keeping me grounded and stopping me from spending money on unnecessary stuff
Back in the day, I put a wintage tray from a 340 in my 318..... i never thought about the oil piling up towards the back.
A 340 tray will work in all the LA blocks if it's a 273,318,340 or 360 they are all the same if it stroked then it will need some work and same as if it's the newer Magnum blocks it needs a 5/16 spacer between the mounting holes
It's not just "quicker cars" it's cars that hook and go. Also you have to consider the effect lifting the front end. I totally agree, there is a lot of HP in the oil system. You really do good videos and I appreciate your style.
Those hubcaps are awesome. Law enforcement needed the drilled ones to get rid of heat in chase situations and heavy stop and go traffic.
Uncle Tony, I love your work here on You Tube. You're a magnificent American keeping old school hot rodding alive and well.
This baffled me. Never seen a pan without. Something new every in every video.
The "dog dish" hub caps really look good on your car! Your friend has good taste. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with these videos. Bottle rocket is one of the most creative and unique low budget builds on TH-cam.
Hey uncle tony, jack here again. Thanks alot for breaking down oil pressure. Super helpful im a young mechanic going on 4 years and i appreciate the information. I subscribed back when you had 1500 subscribers, i think its awesome how you channel has grown and i really enjoy the content
I ran a IMCA modified and with a small block Chevy and ran a 3/8 mile very fast track. I ran a 55a high pressure oil pump. I started with a stock oil pan and it worked great. Later I built a better engine and I put a circle oil pan with trap doors and kick outs. Every time the car went into the turn the oil light would flicker. I started talking to several people and everyone said that is normal and won't hurt anything. I put a stock pan on it and the oil light never flickered. I know if I would have bought a expensive moroso it would have worked but stay away from $100 budget pans because the stock works just fine. That's what I got from the experience. I have never used a high volume pump because its my opinion you have to have a big pan and cross drilled cranks and other needs for more oil. I think your baffle will work great.
Aha i got you. Uncle ! I asked you about this a while ago thankyou for putting this on the table you nailed it! This is a very important and overlooked and unexplained thing giys need to know . thats why your tha man !
I just finished building a baffle for the TransDapt oil pan that I'm using for my V-8 Ranger swap. I went with a different pan than what comes in the kit for 2 reasons-1) I didn't want a chrome pan. 2) Even though I know it probably isn't necessary, I wanted a 5qt. capacity pan. I built this baffle the same way I always do-I cut 2 pieces of "slotted" steel strap to fit inside the sump (a short piece for the front, a longer piece at the back). Then, I cut/shaped a piece of 16ga sheet metal to fit the pan. I use "slotted" strap because it already has holes to allow for drain back. I tack weld the strap so that the bottom of the holes are just a tick below the top edge of the sump. Then, I tack the sheet metal to the sides of the pan.
I always learn something from Uncle Tony. Thanks man
I've never built a motor without some sort of windage control. Even when I was messing with big inch Caddy motors. Always use stock volume stock pressure pumps. Have played around with springs and always came back to around 10 at an idle and 35ish at full send. Never lost a motor racing, for an oil pressure issue...
You have any 500 windage trays or scrapers hanging around?
@@RichMander1 No sorry got out of caddy motors back in the 90's
Love you’re style tony I’m a new subscriber and can’t get enough of this Chanel.
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Being older and from the same school,I like your fabrication. These days it seems most go.way past the point of diminishing returns.
Maintaining oil temperature goes a long way to keeping the average pressure in the happy zone. Full synthetic oil will help in the same vein but typically they don't have enough zinc in their additives to take care of a flat tappet cam. Really need a hot rod oil with extra zinc or upgrade to mega dollar roller cam. Vaccum pumps can make free power by removing the pressure from the crankcase. Helps the rings seal better and less windage, another 15-20 hp can be had.
Oddly, I did had Smokey Yunick's book on his "Power Secrets", I had from the same publisher, "Blueprinting" and one on "Holley Carburettors". I gave them away to my, then Boss, who was rebuilding an LJ Torana. Oddly, finding these same books are near impossible. Cheers for the Video Uncle Tony and Uncle Tony-ess :-)
Reminds me of my 340 and the factory windage tray that came with it. It was a 68, letting that go was a huge mistake.
Same here.
I built a 340 for my '70 Challenger and never got it installed. Wish I had kept the car and sold the wife.
We had no idea the real value of those used cars we were buying in high school for $1200.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 i bought my 340 Duster at a city auction for 275 dollars. The only thing wrong with it needed lower control arm bushings.
@@garymckee8857 Yeah, I remember they were cheap but not exactly how much we were paying. My friend bought a used Satellite with a 318, I think it had. Pretty sure it had AC, was definitely a 727 torqueflight. We drove the wheels off that beauty and was still going strong last I saw him. Maybe he paid $500 non-driver sitting in someone's driveway, it needed exhaust, battery and maybe tires or something. I remember it was cheap compared to today, and the body was perfect.
Tony your a dying breed, I love watching your videos. I’m learning and cracking up!!! Thank you
Ramon Casillas vanishing is a more appropriate term....:)
One thing I always liked about the sbc is the rear oil pump setup.
Another. Great video from Uncle Tony
Wow great information Tony everyone always wants high volume oil pumps I didn’t realize that could be hurting the power👍
I run a custom stock sump for my cleveland 408 stroker, 7quart fill with baffle and windage tray as the motor makes 380rwhp through a toploader 4spd and 9" 3.90ratio. It runs a Mellings hf pump which produces around 40pounds at idle and 75 at any sort of noise, but my Old Man and i built my stroker with some old school techniques of looser clearancing, 2thou on most rotating assemblies and oil return drain holes in the cleveland valley have been opened up, rounded off and wire wheel polished the valley to promote oil return as the cleveland is TERRIBLE at draining at prolonged higher rpm's. In conjunction with our local machine shop and some investigation into high quality oils, we chose to run Brad Penn Grade 1 20w 50 and its been super happy to this day and its around 9years old now, 1 gearbox rebuild and im currently having the 9" rebuilt as its pounded a yoke out but my lil torque monster 408 still sounds a treat and the motor has behaved amazingly. This year ill be posting the ally heads and top end rebuild and get it ready for some more serious numbers yet keeping it a somewhat driveable street based build.
Tony, all that you have said in this video, I already knew, SO kind of interesting, BUT the POLICE hub caps, AWESOME , Tony.
As long as the oil gauge says at idle about the first mark on the old stock gauge I am happy. Cause that means I don't have to add a quart. And I know it will go up to just about the half way mark driving. And since it's one of them little Chevy small block engines. I do remember bolting some sort of windage unit on it around the oil pump area. When I put that 6 quart fancy hot rod Chrome oil pan on it. Years ago. Building the engine to put in the Nova. But it ended up in Dad's old Pick'em up truck. And this poor little 383 stroker that's getting tired has been a daily Runner in the old 75 C20 for the last 10 years. I'm happy with myself. Good build.
Great video uncle Tony you answered my oil pressure question that I was thinking about hello to uncle Kathy as well regards Anthony from down under
I don't think I would believe that windage tray would work if it was anyone besides Uncle Tony. BottleRockets lookin sharp 👍👍
Chrysler engineers had it right with the 340.
Childish and angry! ME TOO!! Thank you both for another awesome video! You keep on teaching and I keep on learning.
The old 60s Corvette 327 engines we used to race had factory windage trays and if you vented high up on sides of the oil pans and plumbed the vents up to the valve covers you gained some rpms and probably a few horses too
If you ever look at the bottom end of a seventies/eighties Rover V8 you will see the shelf on the sump, windage tray, and larger gears in the oil pump, but not a huge amount of pressure. The engineers had worked out what was needed for a max of 6000rpm. People would often try and correct the factory 'low' oil pressure not understanding how it all worked together.
IMO old school steelies + dog dishes are better looking than most wheels on the market. What a score!
Good show today, I gotta watch my UTG everyday
IIRC Mopar performance manual recommends as a 1st step to enlarge the pickup and the passage in the block. It says easy suction side improvements always yield oil system performance improvements - more so than pressure side mods which are comparatively much harder.
There must be something wrong with me.
I bought Smokey Yunicks "Best Damn Garage In Town" box set and kept all my old issues of " Cars Illustrated"
I run 8 psi at idle.. It freaks my friends out all the time. Fast is not always pretty and pretty is not faster all the time. Another good lesson.
My 1970 Dart was that low at idle for years. Zero problems.
I totally agree about the oil pressure. On my cheap quick throw together street race engines, I always wanted low oil pressure. Now on my all out drag engines the pressure is quite high.
Jesus, Tony, you're a mad f-ing -scientist.
I always followed the rule of 10psi at idle, warm and in drive. Got in alot of arguments over that. Pressure is resistance to flow. Some people just don't understand that.
Lol...you "have other human qualities"...what a funny line. Love the custom fabrication.
In the sixties, harley had bigtime windage issues at Daytona. Once solved, they had 750 side valve motors running 150mph
Can say I actually learned something today thanks to UTG- love the police caps- they hard to find in Canada
In addition and from personal experience HV pumps in big block Mopar with stock oil pans lead to trouble I chewed the camshaft out of a 400 because at 5000rpm sustained towing it could drain the oil out of the pan faster than it can flow down 😣 read the whole book don't just skim and assume you have a complete understanding
No. 22.....bam! That's some damn good advise. I know with small block chevy spooling high rpms with some builds, the engine could pump the sump dry. So we had to run extra oil return lines from the top to the oil pan. If it was going to do it, you hoped you caught it in time before you damaged something, because it had to be the right circumstances to occur. Otherwise you got burned at the worse moment.
tony whats up man. i like ur videos.especially ur carb and tech stuff.i noticed ur a big mopar guy.not trying to be ignorant just wondering is that what u grew up on?or is there engineering design of the small blocks that u prefer over a sbc or sbf?there is not much mopars around me even when i lived in jersey it was mainly sbc or 5.0 fords on the street.like i said not trying to be ignorant.just was hoping maybe u could make a video the small block mopar pros and what attracts u to them over ur typical sbc or sbf.i have saw in some of ur older videos u seem to like the sbf 302 also.i can attest to them being 1 of my personal favorite small blocks .thanks man keep the good old school real videos coming.not all like these other videos with sponsored parts in a dustless facility looking all pretty.i enjoy real world footage getting outside actually driving the cars the stuff u do real world shit.
I see 60psi cold idle. 40psi hot idle. New standard volume, standard pressure oil pump maybe 7k miles ago. Stock calls for 10w-30. I'd been running 5w-30 synthetic. I just switched over to Mobil1 0w-40 synthetic. I just installed a centrifugal supercharger and wanted a little more protection under boost, and more flow when it's cold. Old 350 Chevy with full roller valvetrain. It's in an old farm truck with a low-mileage 4-bolt main bottom end.
More pure gold thanks uncle tony
The cop hub caps are way underrated. I like the 15x10” steel wheel with cop cap and a meaty bias ply tire running in rear
Sweet dog dishes...ive got some OEM caps on my 78 Big 10 Chevy Silverado...i dig the look too...love the content Tony😎 Cartersville Kentucky
Great video, Uncle Tony!
Thanks for all the videos .. alwats very informative even when i been doing this for a very long time .. i know about the oil rushing to the back of the pan but not the rest .. love the videos thanks for what you do
100lbs 😳 wow that is amazing
The dog dishes really make the whole package.
Smoky Yunick. Have not heard that name for a looooong time.
Me too. I just read he flew 50 missions as a B-17 pilot in WW-2
Didn't you recently do something like this in the oil pan of a Slant Six?
I thought I remembered this discussion from somewhere...
How about a crank scraper? Love the videos. Please let us know more about why the distributor and cam gears were grinding.
It is pretty easy to make a low buck dry sump. Keep the stock pressure pump but direct the suction side outside of the block , make a shallow oil pan that has a trough / flat side in the direction of crank rotation. ( the flat will be on the passenger side. Use a spur gear hydraulic pump as a scavenge pump hooked to a home made tank. Have a look at the system on an older Ford " Kent " 1.6 4 cylinder powered Formula Ford race car
Yep. The ol 440 in my runner carries 15 psi at idle. Fully warm. Has for years.
UTG, whats your thoughts on using new head bolts vs re using the old bolts? My repair manuals states, "Replacement required due to Torque to yield head bolts". This is my first rebuild of a chevy 350ci, I've rebuilt dozens of ford engines over the years and have always reused the original head bolts with no problems...your 2 cents would be worth a million to me.
Excellent as always!!! Ive always erred towards longevity vs HP, and followed 10psi/1krpm, but as you said, by doing the math, its overkill. I know you mentioned painting the inside of blocks to assist in oil return, but what about any grinding, grooving, or smoothing? Would you want the rough texture to assist in heat transfer, especially in the heads(??) What about enlarging the blocks oil passages to fiddle with the volume/pressure results? Ever bother with any of that?
Last thing: oil coolers. Any thoughts??
Uncle tony is a genius.
I'm chasing a no-pressure-reading-when-cold problem in my stock '66 Hemi, and after trying three different pressure sensors, dropped the pan to see what's what. It has a baffle on the rear side of the deepest part of the pan as you described, but no windage tray- so I'm adding one. The pickup is OK, so absent any other problems the pressure problem may come down to oil weight (I had 15W-40 in it, my racer neighbor says use straight 40 weight), or the length of the bypass spring in the pump? Anyway keeps me busy while I'm keeping at least six feet away from other humans.
I can vouch for the 7 psi per 1000 rpm thing. I drove an AMC Jeep Waggie with a 360 for 15 years and that damn thing never had oil pressure at idle, LOL.
Yep. And your friends who said you should worry about it, went through three vehicles apiece in that time.
Dry Sump oiling system trumps Wet Sump oiling systems in general in road race or drag race applications...
Excellent info! I learned something today.
As per the brass in the oil pan from the distributor brass gear..... Without getting into "GEAR geometry" specifics, Measure the the cam's gear diameter, divide by 2. to find the center line of the cam.. keep that number known
Measure the depth of the distributor's landing face on top of the intake manifold, down to the top highest tooth of the cam once installed (V-8 config)... special tool required, or rig up calipers...
Add the 1st number (the result of the divided by 2 , which to the radius of cam's gear) to the depth measurement... keep that number handy now and forget about the first radius number...
Now, measure the distributor distance, landing flange of the shaft, to the center of the brass distributor gear...or measure the length of the dizzy's gear, divide by 2, and that number will get added or subtracted or add to the the length number from the dizzy's landing flange, to either the top or bottom of the gear.... the gears length being divided by two is to find the center of the length, and as mentioned, add or subtract accordingly from the landing flange to top or bottom of dizzy gear...
Checking this, to make sure that the 45 degree tooth mesh is on center with one another, as just (0.010") worth of mis-alignment, in height, will trash the brass dizzy gear, based upon the intake manifold's manufacturing process and in extremely rare cases, how the distributor was manufactured...
I personally have never caught the dizzy's being out of factory spec, especially the after market lines, but my father has, TWICE!!! Now, I personally have had uncountable height issues due from intake manifolds, ALLOT!!! Most only needed shims, and only a few were too tall, sure, I could have machined them down myself, but, was clearly just bad parts and were shipped back to the company for a replacement...but, the alignment of helically cut 45 degree gears, have to be on center with one another, or, they chew themselves up, or at least the softer alloy (brass) does, by design. as you likely already know, when they are in alignment, they last a massively long time. please note, the block and heads having been resurfaced, and the china walls being altered, will also cause issues in giving a false reading, to lead one to think the intake manifold landing flange is too high or too low... Another note, if the drive tang for the oil pump is too long, can be a rare issue.. a friend of mine caught a horridly manufactured O.E.M. oil pump, the the slot was not deep enough, and the ring that was pressfit on, was destroyed getting it off and and he machined a new ring after slotting deeper.. but this issue first lead him down a path, thinking the height issue was elsewhere, as explained above... good luck, and happy building, and be safe all
Thanks for that!
CAUTION!!! EINSTEIN @PLAY.
@@alanwhite3280 oh no... we each learn by watching others and by crash coursing through life... but no Einstein... in fact, I had to look at how you spelled "Einstein's" name so I would get it right... lol, but thank you though
Commenting for algorithm
Rudimentary Fabrication, is still getting it done.. less oil slapping the Crank the Better for All.. Oi oi oi Uncle Tony
Bob ross of engines
Omg lol...epic comment!!!👍😂
Love those dog dish caps. That's how it oughta look
I Fab a lot of things & if your looking at it you make sure it works right then make it pretty if not just make it work that's all that matters . If they don't like how it looks then they are not making anything they just buy & put on . When breaking new ground you have to ruff it in to make sure it works then go from there
Oh man those caps are killer!
Sweet hubcaps, I just put the same ones on my Nash. It has steelies from a 66 Monaco.
Lol I love how uncle Tony says snazzy
UTG love the channel!!
You inspire the desire to learn the fine art of engine building and tuning!! I find myself watching your videos then heading to the garage to tinker with my 70 Charger with the tips and tricks you share. So Thank you!!
Assembled 440 running 65-70psi oil pressure. Would it be ok to experiment with oil viscosity to achieve the oil pressures targets you have described?
I had a 1985 Plymouth Gran Fury it was a old cop car with a 318 in it and it came with a factory windage tray in it
Yay a utg video! Great info and great distraction from the bullshit.
Those caps on bottle rocket do look good.